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Full text of "The Boston Cooking School magazine of culinary science and domestic economics"

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strawbeahy and other seasonable dishes 

THE BOSTON 

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MAGAZINE 

OF CUI^INAR>Y-SCIRNCBAND- 
DOAiBSTIC • £^CONOAlIC£l 




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pUMFORD 

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For producing food of most delicious flavor, and perfect lightness 
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From LITTLE, BROWN & CO.'S LIST of COOK BOOKS 



New Edition of the Best Vegetarian 
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THE GOLDEN RULE 
COOK BOOK 

BY 

M. R. L. SHARPE 



Six hundred recipes for meatless dishes, — 7^ Soups, 
261 Vegetables, 18 Vegetable Combinations, 30 Rice, 
Macaroni, etc., 1 1 Nut dishes, 28 Croquettes, 44 Sauces, 
48 Eggs, 17 Cheese, 44 Salads, 21 Savories, 14 Sand- 
wiches, 10 Pastry, 10 Hot Breads, 4 Desserts, etc., etc., 
together with chapters on the kitchen, dining-room, 
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WITH A SAUCEPAN 
OVER THE SEA 

BY 

ADELAIDE KEEN 



Over 600 recipes of Soups, Fish, Eggs, Sauces, 
Meats, Entrees, Vegetable Salads, Cakes, Puddings, 
Pastry, Ices, Preserves, Confections, and Hot and Cold 
Drinks as prepared in England, France, Germany, 
Austria, Italy, etc., together with sample bills 
of fare. 

Only recipes containing ingredients | f 
procurable in American markets are 
included. 

271 pages. Illustrations. Cloth. $1.50 net 



Little, Brown & Co., PubHshers,34 Beacon St., Boston 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



OF 



Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

Volume XVI /h 

June-July, 1911— May, 1912 
Copyright, 1911, 1912, by The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 



/ 

Published Monthly by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



COMPLETE INDEX, VOL. XVI 

June-July, 1911— May, 1912 



Page 

All Hallowe'en 154 

April 412 

Art of the Flatiron, The 49 

August 69 

Autumn Reveries 173 

Back to Arcady 122 

Bad Citizenship of Good Women, The . 269 

Beside the Sea 134 

Bit of Spain Transplanted, A., 111. . . 358 

Born Get-a-Header, The 320 

Breakfast Rut, The ....'... 247 

Brief for Husbands, A 129 

Buffet Suppers for Christmas .... 209 

By the Winter Fire 264 

Cafeteria Supper, A . . . . • . . . 50 

Canning in Tin at Home 151 

Catching and Curing the Codfish, 111. . 259 

Catering for Automobile Parties . . 93 
Choice Lenten Luncheon and Supper 

Dishes 353 

Christmas Charm ^. . . 221 

Christmas Fern, The 226 

Christmas and Its Significance . . . 225 

Close Call, A 315 

Colonial Chairs, 111 59 

Colonial Supper, A 371 

Coming of INIary Ellen, The .... 75 

Concerning our Bill of Fare .... 483 

Concerning Our Seasonable Recipes . . 38 

Dishes for Afternoon Tea 258 

Dishes for Valentine Suppers .... 305 
Dishes to order for Tea-Room of Res- 
taurant 449 

Division of Labor in the Home . . . 417 

Domestic Science in Belgium .... 365 

Dress, Diet and Debt 69 

Easter 408 

Editorials' '. '. \ \ ' 22, 78, 134, 'l82, 230, 

278, 326, 374, 422, 490 

Efficiency in the Home 291 

Emergency Service 339 

Ethics of Gastronomy and Dietetics . . 435 

Everyday Laundry Work 345 

Fad or Reform 147 

Fireless Cooker, The 98 

Fireplace Screens, 111 355 

Game of the Yule-Log, The .... 215 

Genesis of Roast Duck, The, 111. ... 454 

Golden Rod 130 

Grandmother's Parlor 16 

Happiness • . . 229 

Her Valentine 312 

Home 414 

Home Ideas and Economies . 51, 107, 155, 

203, 251, 298, 347, 393, 441, 491 

Hope 78 

How Reduce the Meat Bill . . ..323 
Hungarian Housewife's Way of Cooking, 

The 468 

Hush-a-Bye-Bye 106 

Hyacinths to Feed the Soul .... 416 



Page 

Inexpensive Luncheons 92 

In the Dark 314 

Isles of the Sea, The 19 

June 12 

Just Billy 361 

Kaiser's Kitchen, The 227 

Keeping the Home 274 

Kitchen Drama, A 265 

Kitchen vs. Kitchenette 49 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking 41, 96, 149, 

196, 244, 293, 342, 388, 441, 485 

Letter to Santa Glaus, A 158 

Library, The, 111 211 

Library List, A 158 

Little Happinesses 8 

Magic Dew of Paradise, The .... 318 

Mary, Mary, Quite Contrary .... 415 

]\Iary's Husband 451 

May Queen, A .' . 490 

Menu Served to Col. Roosevelt ... 37 
Menus, 34-35, 90-91, 146-147, 194-195, 241-243, 
289-290, 337-338, 386-387, 433-434, 481-482 

Menus for Hallowe'en and Weddings . 113 
Menus for June Weddings and School 

Spreads 36 

Menus for Piazza Luncheons .... 1 

Mrs. Craig's Awakening 123 

Misunderstanding of Mavberry, The . . 174 

Modern Kitchen, The \ 437 

Modern Missionary, A 10 

Modern Sleeping Room, The, 111. . . 307 

Modern versus Ancient Fables . . . 229 

My New Year Wish 268 

:My Queen of May 464 

New Ideas About Cheese 43 

Nineteen-Twelve 175 

Novel Ideas from Cafes 198 

October Strawberries 126 

Old Year Goes, The 273 

On a Much Needed Revolt in the House- 
hold 442 

Out of the Rut 461 

Pair of Friends, A 77 

Peep into the Home Manager's Account 

Books 45 

Pictures 313 

Pink Lustre 178 

Plea for the Hospital Dietitian, A . . 248 

Porch Parlors, 111. 403 

Practical Home Dietetics 102 

Quince Preserves . 71 

Rag Fairs of Paris, The 411 . 

Raising Turkeys, 111 163 

Real Women 120 

Reopening the Summer Camp ... 66 

Sardine of Passamaquoddy, The, 111. . 3 

School Luncheons 391 

Seein' Things 170 

Shopping and Marketing in Russia, 111. . 6Z 

Short Cuts in House Work 275 

Simple but Satisfactory Luncheons . . 264 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Page 

Simple Foods vs. Food Bric-a-Brac . . 369 

Song 43 

South Wind, The 370 

Spring 392 

Strange Foods We May Eat ... . 47 

Summer Schools 40 

Tea Customs 464 

Thanksgiving 182 

Thanksgiving Day in the Morning . . 167 

Things 272 

Time and Clarissa 13 

To the Sister of a Flower . _ . . . . 467 

Trouble versus Irresponsibility . . . 409 

Typhoid Fly, The 148 

Ubiquity of Common Sense, The . . . 223 

Use of Napkins, The 176 

Valentine, A • ... 346 

Veranda Girls, The . . . 131,201, 296, 488 

Villa in Granada, A 413 

Violets 457 

Voyage of Life 101 

Warelands Dairy, The, 111 115 

When Bob Burglarized 418 

When Maple Leaves Begin to Fall . . 133 

Winsom Water Garden The, 111. . . 451 

Seasonable Recipes: 

Apples, Baked, 111 432 

Apples, Duchesse Style, 111 193 

Apples, Stuffed, in Jelly, 111. ... 237 

Artichoke Bottoms, with Caviare, 111. . 377 

Baba, with Apricots and Meringue, 111. 432 

Bananas, Baked 332 

Bavarian Cream, Caramel .... 236 

Bavarian Cream, Pear, 111 287 

Bavariose, Apple, with Jelly, 111. . . 192 
Bavariose, Pineapple, Pompadour Style, 

111 384 

Beef, Fillet of. Bouquet Style, 111. . . 233 

Biscuit, Clover-leaf, 111 334 

Biscuits, Rye-meal 140 

Blanc Mange, Gelatine, with Black- 
berries, 111 88 

Bluefish, Baked, 111 82 

Bluefish, or Shad, Baked 426 

Bluefish, Fillets of. Baked .... 83 

Bombe, Algonquin Style, 111. ... 384 

Bombe, Glace Apricot 385 

Bombe, Glace, Pompadour . . . . 334 

Bread, Date, 111 -28 

Bread, French 139 

Bread, Milk, 111 139 

Brioche for Vol-au-Vent, 111. ... 189 

Brownies, Chocolate 336 

Butter, Cocoanut 238 

Cabbage, Lady, 111 26 

Cake, Chocolate Sponge, Mocha Frost- 
ing 383 

Cake, Date, 111 *. . 288 

Cake, Devil's Food, with Frosting, 111. 479 

Cake, Fudge with Frosting .... 480 

Cake, Lord Baltimore 336 

Cake, Poinsettia, with Decorated Icing 239 

Cake, Spanish, 111 240 

Cake, White Fruit, 111 33 

Cakes, Plain Griddle 141 

Canapes, Ham 377 



Page 

Cannelons, Pastry, 111 379 

Caramels, Coffee, Chocolate Dipped . 240 

Caramels, Opera Chocolate .... 240 

Caramels, Opera Coffee 240 

Cauliflower, Maitre d'Hotel, 111. . . 287 

Caviare Slices, Remoulade .... 185 
Celery, Creamed, with Poached Egg, 

111. . 190 

Charlotte Russe, Caramel, 111. . . . 478 

Charlotte Russe, with Jelly Roll, 111. . 336 

Chestnuts, Chantilly, 111 287 

Chicken, or Turkey, Left Over, 111. . 186 

Chicken, Fritot of 29 

Chicken, Poeled 85, 186 

Chicken, Stewed, Cadillac Style . . 427 

Chops, Breaded Lamb, 111 426 

Cocktail, Tomato, 111 81 

Consomme, Dubarry 137 

Consomme, Espagnole 137 

Consomme, Lilienne 185 

Consomme, Mancelli 185' 

Consomme, Mushroom 281 

Consomme, Renaissance 330 

Croquettes, Canned Salmon .... 378 

Croquettes, Oyster 378 

Cup, Melba, with Sauce, 111 335 

Cup, Roman 335 

Custard, Macaroon en Surprise, 111. . 144 

Cutlet, Veal, Breaded and Baked . . 138 

Cutlets, Cornish 139 

Doughnuts, Yeast, 111 382 

Dressing, Cooked Salad 141 

Dressing, Bread for Fish .... 282 

Dressing, Lettuce and Rochefort Salad 237 
Dumplings, Apple, with Butter and 

Sugar, 111 88 

Dumplings, Apple, with Hard Sauce, 

111 88 

Dumplings, Rolled Apple, 111. ... 191 
EggSf Baked in Potato Nests, 111. . 428 
Eggs, en Cocotte, Jardiniere .... 476 
Eggs, with Cheese Sauce and Aspara- 
gus, 111 27 

Eggs and Onions in Cream Sauce, 111. 428 

Figs, with Cream Cheese Glace, 111. . 237 

Fillets of Beef, with Mushrooms, 111. 427 

Filling, Almond Cream 141 

Finnan Haddie, Creole Style . . . 378 

Finnan Haddie a la Delmonico . . 426 

Fish, Baked, with Dressing, 111. . . 282 

Fish, Baked Fillet of 282 

Fish, Creamed en Cocotte .... 379 

Fish, Stuffing for Baked 82 

Forcemeat, Veal 331 

Frosting, Mocha 236 

Frosting, without Eggs 480 

Gateau St. Emilion, 111 238 

Gingerbread, Soft 33 

Grill, Mixed, 111 474 

Haddock,, with Mornay Sauce au Gra- 

tin. 111 82 

Halibut, Fillets of, with Asparagus 

Tips 25 

Halibut, Mousseline, with Bechamel 

Sauce, 111 330 

Halibut, Turban of, a la Comtesse, 111. 137 

Ham, Heart of, with Eggs, 111. . . 427 

Hominy, Fried, Taft Fashion, 111. . . 477 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Page 

Hors D'oeuvres 425 

Ice Cream, Chocolate, 111 479 

Ice Cream, Praline 142 

Ice Cream, Pistachio 334 

Jelly, Tomato 332 

Jelly Roll, Sponge 336 

Jelly Sauce, Brown Currant . . . 235 
Lamb, Boned Leg of, Stuffed and 

Baked 138 

Lamb, Roasted Leg of, 111 332 

Lobster, Clarence Style, 111 84 

Macaroni, with Tomatoes and Peppers 190 

Macaroni Souffle 190 

Macaroons, Butter .• 382 

Macedoine, Jellied in Tomatoes . . 81 
Macedoine, Mold of Vegetable, with 

Spinach, 111 28 

Mangoes, Sweet Pickled, 111 381 

Marmalade, Amber, 111. ..... 431 

Meringue of Rice and Pears, 111. . . 193 

Noisettes, Lamb, Berry Style ... 89 

Omelet, Jardiniere, 111 476 

Omelet, Spanish 87 

Onions, Stuffed with Mushrooms . . 476 

Oysters, Jellied, Russian Style, 111. . . 329 

Oysters, with Forcemeat and Ham, 111. 331 

Patties, Chicken, Queen Style ... 379 

Peel, Candied Grapefruit 385 

Pepper Pot, Every-day 473 

Pie, Mince, with Apple Meringue, 111. 238 

Pie, Queen Apple 385 

Pie, Rabbit 286 

Pie, Raisin 385, 479 

Pie, Sour Cream, 111 144 

Pop Overs, with Sugared Strawberries, 

111 32 

Pork, Shoulder of. Stuffed and 

Roasted, 111 474 

Potato, Mashed, Marquise Style . . 234 

Potatoes, Anna, 111 139 

Potatoes, Dijonnaise, en Cocotte, 111. 476 

Potatoes, Hongroise Style .... 333 

Pudding, Baked Indian 143 

Pudding, Steamed Carrot, 111. . . . 235 

Punch, Tea, Mint and Grape ... 89 

Quenelles, Vol-au-Vent of Salmon . 27 

Quenelles, Veal, with Green Peas, 111. 27 

Rabbit, a la Marengo, 111 285 

Rabbit, Larded, Baked with Milk, 111. 284 

Ragout, Green Turtle 429 

Rhubarb, Cooked with Sultana Raisins, 

111 430 

Ring, Swedish Tea, 111 140 

Rings, Bismark, 111 141 

Rolls, Peanut-Butter and Fruit, 111. . 192 

Rolls, Soufffe for Luncheon .... 31 

Rolls, Turkish 141 

Salad, Andalouse, 111 477 

Salad, Artichoke, 111 381 

Salad, Christmas, 111. 238 

Salad, Cucumber, 111 282 

Salad, Dressing for Fruit-and-Nut . . 479 

Salad, Easter, 111 429 

Salad, Endive-and-Egg, 111 381 

Salad, Fruit, 111 333 

Salad, JeUied Oyster .329 

Salad, Lettuce and Rochefort Cheese, 

111 142 



Page 

Salad, Lima Bean, 111. ..... 430 

Salad, Lobster, 111 84 

Salad, Mexican Tomato 30 

Salad, 1912, 111 430 

Salad, Potato, 111 380 

Salad, Stuffed Turnip, 111 287 

Salad, Tomato Jelly, with Sauce Val- 
entine 332 

Salad, with Beets and Cream Cheese, 

111 381 

Salsify, Bourgeoise Style, 111. . . . 382 
Sandwiches, Date Bread, Cream 

Cheese and Lettuce, 111 28 

Sandwiches, Epicurean 142 

Sandwiches, Filbert Butter .... 333 
Sandwiches, Lettuce, Cream and Pi- 
mento, 111 142 

Sandwiches, Tongue 188 

Sauce, Bernaise 234, 284 

Sauce, Chasseur '89 

Sauce, Chocolate 479 

Sauce, Cream or Bechamel . . . . 380 

Sauce, Drawn Butter 83, 282 

Sauce, Frothy 143 

Sauce, Half-Glaze 428 

Sauce, Italian ... - 426 

Sauce, Marshmallow 479 

Sauce, Vinaigrette ....... 478 

Sauce, Wargrave 427 

Sherbet, Muscovite 193 

Sherbet, Raspberry 334 

Souffle, Ham 85 

Souffles, Individual Asparagus, 111. . 30 

Soup, Andalusian 330 

Soup, Celery 233 

Soup, Clear Green Turtle .... 281 

Soup, Cream of Asparagus .... 425 

Soup, Cream of Cucumber .... 137 

Soup, Cream of Salsify 378 

Soup, Mulligatawney 377 

Soup, Puree of Split Pea, with Almond 

Milk _. 473 

Soup, Tapioca 233 

Soup, Tomato, with Whipped Cream . 281 
Steak, Sirloin, Tivoli, 111. . . . .284 
Strawberries, in Swedish Timbale 

Cases, 111 31 

Stuffing, Bread or Sausage . . . .33 

Stuffing, Potato for Roast Goose . . 234 

Sundae, Banana, Nut 89 

Sundae, Banana, Plain, 111 89 

Sweetbreads, Glazed, with Canned 

Mushrooms 25, 86 

Sweetbreads, Medallions of, Berengere, 

111 85 

Tart, Meringued Apple, 111 335 

Tartlets, with Peas and Egg, 111. . . 29 

Tarts, French Apple, 111 478 

Tarts, French Peach, 111 431 

Tarts, Pineapple, 111 143 

Tenderloin, Pork, Stuffed, with Ba- 
nanas, 111 286 

Timbales, Venison 234 

Timbales of Fish, Mousseline, with 

Peas . _ .474 

Tongue, Braised Beef, with Spinach, 

111 187 

Tongue, Salad of, with Spinach . . 187 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Page 

Tongue in Aspic Jelly, 111 188 

Turkey, Jellied, 111 331 

Wafers, Vanilla 382 

Welsh Rabbit, Tunny Fish .... 282 

Queries and Answers : 

Almonds, Salted Ill 

Ants, How Exterminate . . . . . 112 
Apricot, Regarding with Specimen 

Dishes 495 

Aspic, Delicate Chicken 2U8 

Beans, Boston Baked 496 

Biscuit, Sour Milk .256 

Biscuit, Southern Beaten .... 112 

Books on Domestic Science .... 304 

Bouillon, Jellied Tomato Ill 

Bread, Gluten 351 

Bread, Pulled 352 

Bread, Quick-Nut 303 

Bread, Ten Loaves of 160 

Buns, Cinnamon 160 

Buns, Hot Cross 448 

Cake, Almond Coffee .399 

Cake, Chocolate Layer, with White 

Icing 256 

Cake, Coffee 208 

Cake, Cookies, Biscuit, etc.. Sour 

Cream _ . . 400 

Cake, Pastry and Bread Flour in . 352 

Cake, Plain 160 

Cake, Roxbury 160 

Cake, White Fruit 400 

Cake Mixture, When to fold into . . 352 

Chicken a la King 447 

Chicken en Casserole 56 

Chocolate, Iced HI 

Cones, Shaping of Sugar .... 304 

Cookies, Oatmeal 397 

Coupes, Pineapple, Caramel Nut, Thais, 

Melba, etc 255 

Crullers, French 397 

Dressing, Cooked Salad 399 

Flour, Sifting of Graham .... 448 

Ginger, Crystalized 496 

Ice, Pineapple 112 



Page 

Ice Cream, Delicious 352 

Ice Cream, Nut Sauce for .... 352 

Ice Cream, Strawberry 55 

Ice Cream, Vanilla, with Junket . . 255 

Icing, Golden 399 

Jam, or Marmalade, Strawberry . . 56 

Jelly, Cranberry 207 

Jelly, Gelatine in Aspic 207 

Jelly, Recipe .for . _ 208 

Jelly, Regarding Aspic 207 

Jumbles, Old-fashioned 448 

Macaroons, Oatmeal 398 

Marmalade, Grapefruit, Orange . . 447 

Marmalade, Orange . 208 

Mayonnaise, Aspic 55 

Mushrooms, Canning of . . . . . 398 

Olives, Pickling of . 400 

Pansies, Mint Leaves, etc., Candied . 495 

Pastry for One Open Pie . . .- . 256 

Pig's Feet, Pickled 303 

Potatoes, Julienne 400 

Preserves, Strawberry 56 

Pudding, Cabinet 447 

Pudding, English Plum, with Brandy 

Sauce 256 

Pudding, Fruit 448 

Rice, Value of Cooked 448 

Salad, Crackers or Bread to Serve 

with 352 

Salad, Date-and-Apple 400 

Salad, Dressing for 400 

Salad, Hot Chicken 351 

Salad, Lobster 399 

Sauce, Cold Sabayon, Frothy . . . 448 

Sauce, Recipe for Chasseur .... 303 

Sauce, Strawberry "55 

Sponge Drops, Inexpensive .... 399 

Steak, Swiss 397 

Syrup, Caramel, Chocolate .... 352 

Syrup, Keeping Cocoa 304 

Tarts, Lemon Filling for .... 400 

Tarts, Melba 496 

Tarts, Strawberry 55 

Watermelon, Pickled Rind of . . . 112: 

Wine, Elderberry Ill 




Menus for Piazza Luncheons 

I (June) 
Salpicon of Fruit in Cups 
Fried Fillets of Fish, Sauce Tartare 
Lady Finger Rolls 
Cucumbers, French Dressing 
Egg Timbales, Bread Sauce 
Lettuce, Asparagus Tips, French Dressing 
Strawberry Ice Cream 
Angel Cake 
Coffee 

II 

Strawberries in Timbale Cases 

Chicken a la King (chafing dish) 

Egg-and-Asparagus Salad, Mayonnaise Dressing 

Strawberry Sherbet in Tall Glasses, Whipped Cream Decorations 

Orange Cake 

Coffee 

III (July) 

Black and Red Raspberries on Grape Leaves 

Powdered Sugar 

Tomato-and-Veal Soup, Whipped Cream 

Bread Sticks 

Deviled Crabs in Shells 

Cucumber Salad 

Broiled Sweetbreads 

Green Peas 

Marshmallow Cake 

Cocoa Frappe, Whipped Cream 

IV 

Cherries on Stems laid on Cherry Leaves 

Fresh Fish Quenelles, Fish Bechamel Sauce 

Green Peas 

Fried Chicken Kornlet Fritters 

Currant Jelly 

Endive, French Dressing 

Raspberry Ice Cream 

Almond Wafers 

Coft'ee 



The 

Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



Vol. XVI 



JUNE-JULY 1911 



No. 1 



The Sardine of Passamaquoddy Bay 

By Grace Agnes Thompson and May Penery Martin 



IT is not generally known that the 
usual sardine of our markets, 
dainty and toothsome a fish though 
he is, masquerades boldly all the time for 
his French cousin. He is really a her- 
ring caught in the heydey of his youth. 
The true sardine is found only off the 
coast of France. All the "sardines" that 
come to us from Norway, Sweden, Rus- 
sia, and Maine, are young herring, — 
members of the same family with the 
alewife and the true sardine. Being so 
closely related, they are the counterpart 
rather than a substitute for the fish 
whose name they bear. When carefully 
canned, it is difficult to distinguish the 
young herring from the grown-up sar- 
dine. 

While there is annually a fairly large 
importation of spiced, mustard, and 
other piquant forms of sardine from 
Norway and Russia, by far the greater 
number of the cans of ''oiled" or plain 
sardmes, and many even of the "fancy" 
kinds eaten in this country, in Australia, 
and South America, are caught and 
canned in New England, where the east- 
ern borderland of the United States 



touches Canada. The sardine fisheries 
are a source of large revenue to Maine, 
and constitute about one-fifth of all the 
important fisheries of New England. 

Nearly every year, since the earliest 
records of our colonial fathers, great 
schools of herring have come in from 
the deep sea during the summer months 
to spawn in the warm, shallow waters 
off the mouth of the Bay of Fundy, and 
have been washed by the swift tides and 
currents of that region into the many 
channels between the little islands known 
as West Isles, which separate Passama- 
quoddy from Fundy. It is at spawning 
time that the meat of the herring is con- 
sidered most dehcious ; at this time, too, 
the fish are most easily caught. 

Herring are always wary little crea- 
tures. In the old days they were fished 
on dark evenings, silently, stealthily en- 
ticed along by torchlight into the nets 
that trailed in the wake of the boats. 
Now they are decoyed into weirs, — big 
water-traps built of piles and brush and 
wire, into which the fish are swept by 
the tide and imprisoned by the closing 
of a net gate. 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZIXE 



It happens with herring very much 
as with human beings, — the youthful 
ones are the more easily caught in traps. 
And it is these very young and inexperi- 
enced iish that make so excellent a sub- 
stitute for the sardine of France. The 
older hsh are smoked and dried or used 
as bait for other finny inhabitants of 
the sea destined for human food — an- 
other opportunity for the moralist to 
point a comparison, if he will. 

Usually from early ]\Iay till late Oc- 
tober the sardine-herring abound off the 
eastern shores of IMaine and near the 
coast of X^ew Brunswick and the west- 
ern extremity of X^ova Scotia. But it is 
no safer for the weir-owner to estimate 
his herring before they are caught than 
for the farmer to count his chickens be- 
fore they are hatched. For any particu- 
lar weir may trap not a solitary herring 
to-day, though yesterday or for weeks in 
succession last year it fished twenty or 
thirty hogsheads full. Thus the young 
herring is eccentric enough to be the 
subject of many a romantic tale. 

Most of the "sardine'' factories are 
located in Eastport and Lubec, ]\Iaine, 
which have always been the centre of 
the industry. In earlier days, when the 
fisherman had to depend upon sails to 
propel his boat, it was necessary that 
the canning factories be conveniently 
near, since the tender Httle fish spoil if 



kept out of the water without cooking 
after ten hours or so. X^ow, however, 
power-boats have come into general use 
in transferring the fish from weir to fac- 
tory, and this fact, with the increasing 
demand for sardines, has led to the es- 
tablishment of sardine factories in sev- 
eral other localities. But these very 
power-boats, it is averred by the fisher- 
men, frighten away the fish wdth their 
noisy reverberations, so that for the last 
five years the catch has been noticeably 
smaller than in preceding years, when 
sailboats were chiefly in use. During 
two of these seasons the supply of 
American sardines was hardly adequate 
to the demand. 

The idea of using small herring as a 
substitute for sardines was first sug- 
gested by ]\Ir. George Burnham of Port- 
land, Elaine. He reasoned that herring, 
being the most numerous of fishes, while 
true sardines are comparatively scarce, 
as well as more juicy and palatable than 
menhadden or alew^ives when young 
enough to resemble the sardine in size, 
if properly canned should taste equally 
good and cost far less. He accordingly 
went to France and observed the meth- 
ods followed there in the canning of real 
sardines, then purchased olive oil of the 
best quality and returned to America to 
try his fortune. For years, however, he 
could not overcome the flavor of herrins:- 




WEIR CONTROLLING CHANNEL BETWEEN TWO ISLANDS 



THE SARDINE OF PASSAMAQUODDY 




SECTION OF BALLASTED WEIR FOR ROCKY BOTTOM 



oil, SO Strong and disagreeable. The 
scheme was given up for a time. It was 
experimented on again in 1871 wnth men- 
hadden, also unsuccessfully. Einally in 
1879 some ingenious men discovered that 
herring could not be dried and then 
fried, as are the French sardines ; they 
were subjected, instead, to the action of 
live steam in a steam-box and then baked 
or broiled on the same frames on which 
they had first been spread, to prevent 
undue handling, and thus lost every 
atom of unpleasant flavor. The process, 
with the revolving oven in which the fish 
are baked, was patented and a company 
formed to supply the trade with this new 
and truly appetizing product. 

The whole process of sardine fishing 
and packing is very interesting, and the 
summer guests who flock to the fine ho- 
tels on Campobello, at St. Andrews, and 
other points in the neighborhood, or vis- 
iting friends at Eastport or on the 
charming West Isles, are eager admirers 
of the trim little yacht-like boats of the 
weir-fishermen and solicitous enthusiasts 
about the daily "catch." 

A man called the weir-tender is in 
charge of the weir, and rows out to it 
occasionally to see if the water contains 



enough fish to warrant fishing the weir. 
At night a torch is lighted and held over 
the side of the boat to attract the fish 
to the surface where they may be seen 
and estimated. Two hogsheads or more 
is considered worth seining. Then if 
you are anywhere in the vicinity, you 
will presently hear the vigorous signal 
of a horn, and soon see one or two 
boats rowing in the direction of the 
weir. The fish are scooped out of the 
water in dip-nets or else collected at 
one side or corner of the weir in the 
deepest water by dragging a seine across 
the enclosed space and then, by hauling 
in the net of the seine, the fish are cap- 
tured and rolled into the boats. 

The sail for the factories begins di- 
rectly. When at the pier they are at the 
factory, for these buildings stand close 
to the water's edge. The fish are loaded 
into tubs, which look like half-barrels 
with bails for handles, and are carried 
into the factory over a "traveller," a 
kind of cable that moves over pulleys. 
The factory itself may be a moderately 
new and substantial sort of structure, or 
it may be old and weather-beaten, but 
always it is clean. At least, if there is 
dirt, it is clean dirt. Of course vou 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




COMMON BRUSH WEIR FOR SHORE FISHING 



would not think of visiting a sardine- 
factory in your best clothes, lest they 
carry away too powerful an odor of fish ; 
nor would you carelessly sit or lean any- 
where, for there seem to be few spots 
not touched by the oil. But when you 
reflect that the building is washed from 
top to bottom frequently, you agree that 
the discarded portions of perfectly fresh 
fish and the necessary spillings of fresh 
oil are hardly to be classified as "dirt." 
The employees, also, are required to keep 
themselves as clean as the frequent use 
of soap and water can make them. In- 




UNLADING AT CANNERY 



deed, so penetrating is the odor of the 
herring that a bath and daily shampoo 
are essential to their own comfort. 

Inside the cannery the fish start im- 
mediately on the journey that leaves 
them in less than twenty-four hours, 
headless, cleaned, dried, and sealed air- 
tight into little cans of oil, a wholesome 
food ready for the table. The process 
begins when a group of boys and girls 
pick them up, fish by fish, cut off their 
heads and clean out the entrails, at five 
cents a peck, measured after the bodies 
are prepared for the next operation. A 
skilful person can cut and clean one 
thousand fish in an hour. The bodies 
are washed automatically and most thor- 
oughly in large tanks under a sluice of 
running salt water and put into a pickle 
of salt and water for a period of three 
hours, after which they are ready for 
the flakers, who spread them, very care- 
fully so as not to break the soft little 
bodies or let them touch each other, on 
racks of coarse wire netting known as 
''flakes" for the eighty-five minutes of 
drying. Boys and girls do most of this 
work, also, at forty cents for each hun- 
dred fish, making from twenty to twenty- 
five cents an hour. 

The drying is accomplished in what is 
called a ''reel-oven," or large revolving 
steel cylinder with compartments, into 



THE SARDIXE OF PASSAMAQUODDY 



which the rack-holders are wheeled and 
closed. It revolves very rapidly in cor- 
respondence to the steam pressure. 
There are two ways of cooking the sar- 
dines after the drying process, — viz. bak- 
ing or frying. The reel oven is used in 
baking, which requires about ten min- 
utes. The frying means that the fish 
are immersed for a few minutes by 
means of wire half-baskets in a tank of 
oil which has been heated to the boiling 
point by the circulation through it of a 
current of live steam. They are then 
drained and cooled. 

Now the fish are ready for the cans. 
Eight fish in a small can and sixteen in 
a large one, is the average number for 
the smaller fish ; the larger ones are put 
up in mustard in ^-pound cans ; the 
grown fish are sent to the smoking fac- 
tory. For from twenty to twenty-five 
cents an hour each packer spends his day 



in arranging the fish in the cans and 
passing them on to the oilers, who run 
tray after tray of the cans under the 
spout of a machine that flows each can 
full of fresh oil and speeds them for- 
ward to the sealers. The cans are closed 
by another machine, which requires only 
one man to tend, where four men 
were needed for the same kind of work 
in the old days when the work was all 
done by hand. This man also receives 
about twenty cents an hour, which is a 
very good wage in this part of the coun- 
try where the cost of living is not large. 
The sardines must now be thoroughly 
cooked by steam or in boiling water for 
nearly two hours, and at the same time 
the cans are tested as to air-tightness ; if 
there is the slightest leak, the can is 
thrown out. When they come out of 
this steam bath, the cans are cleaned 
carefully in dry sawdust and spread out 




WASHING, DRAINING AND FLAKING HERRING 



8 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



on tables to cool during one whole day. 
Then they are packed into cases for 
shipment, 100 cans of >4 oils, or 50 cans 
of mustard, to the case. 

The method of packing sardines is 
short and comparatively simple, through 
the aid of modern machinery, but most 
delicate, as well as expensive. Over- 
salting or delay in frying causes the fish 
to break to pieces in the frying process ; 
delay in drying causes them to decom- 
pose and vitiate the oil ; over-cooking 



destroys their delicate flavor. To carry 
on successfully the business of packing 
sardines requires a capital of $50,000 
upwards, and a firm credit with the com- 
mission houses that handle the finished 
product. If the cost of fishing were not 
reduced to a minimum, as it is, by the 
practicability of weirs in place of the 
laborious open water seine-fishing of 
older generations, the industry would be- 
come impossible, so low is the price re- 
ceived per case of packed fish. 



Little Happinesses 

By Kate Gannett Wells 



AM I never to get rid of the tire- 
some sense of responsibility 
for other people's happiness?" 
exclaimed a young girl. "1 do so want 
a vacation from being sympathetic and 
helping other people to have a good 
time." 

But her older friend gave her scant 
comfort, save as she told her that the 
trouble lay in her looking out for big- 
things to do instead of taking hold of 
the little happinesses, close at hand, 
to be won for others. 

Still the girl pleaded for release from 
her self-imposed duty and wished she 
had not any conscience, so she could 
have a good time all to herself. For 
as things were it was sure to be her 
fate that, just as she was really enjoy- 
ing herself, she grew miserable because 
she saw some other girl who had not 
any one talking to her or dancing Avith 
her, and so she had to do something 
for her or find somebody for her. 

It so happened that the brother of 
the girl who was bemoaning her con- 
victions overheard her complaint and 
bluntly told his sister that, when girls 
went to parties as social missionaries, 
they would soon find that, unless they 
lessened their efforts to convert 3^oung 
men into disinterested fellows, thev 



themselves would be neglected and 
some one would have to turn mission- 
ary to them, — that she ought to show 
more tact, or the fellows would learn 
to avoid her as a doer of good, and the 
wall-flower girls would be indignant 
because she took them as a duty: — and 
that a party was a place where people 
got their deserts and that was all there 
was to it. 

Then, put on her mettle for self-de- 
fence, the sister's better nature asserted 
itself as she declared, 'T never thought 
I could do big things for others, only 
I get worn out. little things seem so 
ordinary, but I've got used to doing 
that kind and I guess I'll keep on in 
that line.'' 

Perhaps it is the actual truth and 
also the commonplaceness of this story 
wdiich makes one realize that, after all, 
the unconscious kindnesses of the ball 
room, Avhether the dance is in a fash- 
ionable hall or in a deserted ward room, 
are what makes one have a good time., 
It is not only girls and women w^ho 
are lonely in society, for young men 
and boys are quite as apt to suft'er from 
the neglect of others. Yet the girl, 
who is a social favorite, need not fear, 
lest she compromise herself through a 
shv fellow's fancv that she mav like 



LITTLE HAPPINESSES 



him particularly well just because she 
is decently cordial to him. He well 
knows that the way in which either 
cordiality or dignity is shown makes 
all the difference in the excess or lack 
of either. Still the one quality which 
is lacking to our American girls is 
graciousness. That charm never mis- 
leads the man to overvalue any grace 
shown him by a girl, since he realizes 
that grace is hers by nature, a posses- 
sion never to be given away, and that 
same grace will warn him, if he should 
be presumptuous, with the same deli- 
cacy which will cheer him when he is 
lonely. 

It is indeed wretched to feel all the 
little snubs which people, young and 
old, can contrive to inflict upon others, 
but it is far more deadening for one's 
self not to have the capacity to feel 
them. To be capable of feeling and 
sensitiveness, but to practise self-con- 
trol and to care most for real things 
and real folks creates a noble, tender 
character. To lose delicacy of percep- 
tion in any way makes one blunt, un- 
sympathetic, and self-conceited. The 
longer we live in the world the more 
•do we find that happiness comes to us 
just in proportion to the pleasure we 
extract out of little things. If we wait 
for great occasions of joy or thankful- 
ness, we shall long, perhaps always, 
wait in vain; while if we rejoice in the 
little deeds of sweet temper and sunny 
faith, we can get much delight out of 
almost nothing. 

Akin to dances, in the opportunities 
they offer for giving little happinesses, 
are boarding houses, which are often 
lonelier for the inmates than solitude 
itself. Their capacity, however, for 
being otherwise is large as was proved 
by one of them, in which no one 
before had ever known any one. Then 
there chanced to go to it a woman with 
a great genius for friendship, who, left 
alone in the world, hoped to find a 
home in a boarding house, not realizing 
that if she should it would be of her 
own making. 



At first no one spoke to her, a few 
bowed and so it continued for two or 
three days. Then because of her rich, 
warm, human sympathies she wished 
her neighbor good morning. The 
neighbor was surprised but wished her 
the same. At dinner there was a slight 
conversation. At supper the opposite 
neighbor was drawn into the talk; soon 
each went to her own room. By the 
end of two weeks, however, every- 
body in the large house exchanged 
greetings, conversation was general 
throughout the meals, there were lin- 
gering talks on the stairs and in the 
entries. Tickets to lectures and con- 
certs were exchanged, occasionally, and 
a whist party was formed in some one's 
room. At noon the men asked the 
women if they had any letters to post, 
and at night everyone left his or her 
evening greeting at the widow's door. 

Friends invited her to stay with 
them. "No," she replied. 'T have 
found a home among busy people and 
we need each other." 

Last winter she died suddenly. 
''How sad," said the friends of her for- 
mer life, "to die in a boarding house!" 
"How beautiful," said the boarders, 
"that she died right among us all who 
cared for her, for she had taught us all 
to need one another." 

It was sympathy she gave; it was 
friendship she received. Of social caste 
she knew by hearsay. Of character 
she knew by her patience and endur- 
ance. One thought guided her life, — 
that she had a personal responsibility 
for making brighter the odd moments 
of every one with whom she came in 
contact. She had no money to give 
and but little time. Sympathy, intui- 
tion, cordiality were hers in abundance; 
the more she gave of them the more 
she had, till now that she has gone 
we say, — Was there ever another wom- 
an with such 'a genius for friendship ! 
Yet her genius was simply her sense of 
responsibility and delight in creating 
for others the httle happinesses of life. 



A Modern Missionary 

Address to Graduating Class at Boston Cooking School, June, 1 902. 

By Mrs. Ellen H. Richards . 

Originally printed in this Magazine only 

"Work well done is robbed of its curse." 



THE Century Dictionary defines a 
missionary as one who spreads 
any new system or doctrine, — a 
person sent to do educatory or charitable 
work. And a mission is that which one 
is or feels destined to accomplish. 

Every student who goes out from the 
Boston Cooking School feels the pres- 
sure of destiny, and, I am sure, has that 
high resolve to share with others, less 
fortunate, the wisdom she has gained. 
Hence she will not be offended at the 
term "missionary." 

The great physiologist, Huxley, from 
personal experience as well as from ob- 
servation, stated his opinion that a man's 
best start in life is a sound stomach. 
With apologies for mentioning this nec- 
essary organ, we wish to state clearly 
that this is our opinion also; for food 
without a good digestion is coal and no 
means of making a fire. Undigested 
food cannot keep alight the furnace of 
the human body. 

The clever boy is not, as a rule, a 
sturdy boy. At games he may be bril- 
liant and "showy," but in an uphill fight 
he "loses his hair." Under stress and 
difficulty he becomes irritable. If the 
strain be prolonged, he either backs out 
or breaks down. 

It is an unpleasant charge sheet that 
we have drawn up against clever people. 
The items on it are, want of staying 
power, irritability, and weakness when in 
a tight place, uncertainty of temper, a 
certain aloofness from their fellows 
(which is bad for any man), and a ten- 
dency to slyness and shiftiness when 
occupying a responsible position. 

To overload the stomacii makes a man 
sluggish and spend over-much of the 
vital force in the digestive processes. 

The development of his body will not 



rob his mind of its cleverness, but it will 
relieve it of its irritability. Stability of 
character will come with strength of 
muscle. 

The world is still sitting in darkness 
as to the values of the different food 
materials compared with each other, and 
as to the effect methods of cooking have 
upon these values. Dense ignorance pre- 
vails as to the hygienic combination of 
various dishes for a meal, as to why 
this or that garnish is used with one 
and not with another preparation. 

If sorne one feels that we have, even 
with the aid of the dictionary, somewhat: 
twisted the definition of missionary, we 
may go still further, and say, without 
fear of contradiction, that unbelief is 
still the besetting sin of nine-tenths of 
the people; that it is unbelief which, 
as workers in your field, you will have 
to combat. The age is thoroughly scep- 
tical and, as is natural, at the same time 
extremely credulous, if not actually su- 
perstitious. 

Let one of your first efforts be to find 
the man or woman who believes that he 
or she might be happier personally, and 
might make the lives of all with whom- 
he or she comes in contact happier, if a 
balanced diet permitted the best mental 
conditions always, instead of occasion- 
ally, to prevail. We do not believe, or 
we would act upon our faith. The pres- 
ent is a time of great strain, mentally, 
upon all classes. It is a time of hurry 
and worry, of noise and confusion. So> 
far as in us lies, we should minimize 
as much as possible this fret and irrita- 
tion, by strict attention to physical condi- 
tion, sufficient exercise, and suitable food. 
The choice is ours to make. We are 
not compelled to keep to the product 
of our own acre for food, as our an- 



10 



A MODERN MISSIONARY 



11 



cestors were. The world is before us 
to glean in; and how do we use this 
liberty, for good or ill, as judged by the 
people? Do we meet pleasant faces and 
genial manners? Do we see vigorous 
walkers, clear eyes, fresh complexions, 
elastic steps? Are we a healthy people? 
Alas, were there ever so many physi- 
cians? so many beds in hospitals? Is 
the total death-rate lowered ? If not, 
why not? One word furnishes the 
answer : Unbelief. 

We are losing the look ahead. Thrift 
is out of fashion. We say: Better ten 
years of America than a cycle of Cathay. 
Live while we do live, spend while we 
have it. 

The mother gives the young child 
coffee, rich desserts, and all the meat 
it thinks it craves, and, because nothing 
happens the next day, she is sure that 
her indulgence does no harm. Because 
the business man does not have a fit of 
apoplexy directly after his hasty lunch 
of indigestible viands, he assures you 
his habits are all right, and that his eat- 
ing has nothing to do with his lack of 
success in business. The insane asy- 
lums, too, are filled to overflowing; and 
thousands are on the verge of break- 
down. 

The one remedy no one thinks of 
using, just because it cannot be bought 
in a bottle and taken, watch in hand. 

The students in these classes are 
doubtless taught to sugar-coat the pill, 
as well as to devise dishes intended to 
tempt to indulgence. Plain food, coarse 
food, as some sneeringly call it, may be 
made most attractive, without injuring 
its nutritive power, by various harmless 
accessories. This art you are going 
forth to teach, are you not? Many con- 
coctions show fair bulk and enticing ex- 
terior, and are vanity of vanities, so far 
as nutrition goes. These, you will take 
care to explain, are for show, and not 
for use, and so on through the list in 
which you consider yourselves proficient. 
But with it all the missionary spirit will 
lead you to try to instill into the minds 



of the people a belief in their responsi- 
bility for their efficient life in this world 
and for the happiness and the well-being 
of their neighbors, as well as of them- 
selves. Example is contagious ; and that 
which one's neighbor considers essential 
is apt to be our standard, unless we have 
formed our own on principle. 

The joy of perfect physical health, the 
smoothness with which all the machinery 
of life runs, the ease with which work 
gets itself done, the careless assurance 
with which we face all chances of dis- 
ease, — how delightful life may be under 
these circumstances, a very small per 
cent, of ©ur people know. And you are 
going out as missionaries to tell them; 
but are you truly good examples, in your 
own lives? If not, let this day be the 
marking of a new page, and let the 
teacher be an example as well as a fin- 
ger-post; for the crowd will look, when 
they will not listen. If they see you 
always well and merry, always ready for 
work and play, they will accept your 
doctrine with less salt. 

And what are your doctrines? Are 
you the "one-idea" missionary, or is your 
mission one of inspiration and sugges- 
tion, rather than dogmatism? Are you 
to urge vegetarianism, or the meat cure, 
or the fruit and cream and honey diet? 
Are you to claim the first place for 
oranges, and keep bananas under ban, 
where some would have us think they 
should stay, until the garbage pail re- 
ceives them? Will you insist that every 
dinner must begin with soup and end 
with coffee, no matter what have been 
the habits of the people you are laboring 
with? Will you teach that two meals a 
day are enough, and so solve the eight- 
hour day problem by omitting break- 
fasts? Are you to be the agents of the 
Ralston Still, claiming that distilled water 
is the true eau-de-vie? Are you going 
out to teach that there is no "nutriment" 
in white bread or in rice, that tomatoes 
contain mercury, and that roots or vege- 
tables, growing beneath the ground, are 
poisonous? Will you join the ranks of 



12 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



those who use alum baking powders, for 
fear of the Rochelle salts formed from 
cream of tartar mixtures? Will you 
banish sweets from the children's table, 
or will you give them all the chocolate 
creams they ask for? A thousand more 
questions I might ask, and you might 
fail to pass the examination; for, I fear 
me much, our gospel is not very clear or 
consistent, and therefore I ask: Would 
it not be well to be careful what doc- 
trines we do preach at present? Shall 
we not rather hold up a mirror of good 
health, — really good health, not that kind 
which enables us "to be about," but that 
which makes us efficient mernbers of 
society, — and say: Are you in that con- 
dition? if not, why not? 

New and trying conditions the race 
must face, and success lies mainly in the 
perfection of diet, which is evolved by 
the students of such classes as this. Do 
not take any lame excuses, — "My mother 
always had sick headaches," "My father 
had indigestion," just as if these things 
were inherited, like black hair or blue 
eyes. It is quite time we threw off the 
yoke of bondage to our ancestors, when 
our digestion is in question. We are 
responsible for our environment, not 
they. We control our physical and men- 
tal and, therefore, our moral condition, 
and we are responsible. Athletes, per- 
formers on the bicycle, even the abnor- 
mal development we sometimes see, teach 
us how much may be made of unprom- 
ising material. It is this doctrine of 
personal responsibility which I believe 
the graduate of a school like this should 
go forth to teach. Individuality is the 



rule, and conditions differ. The old 
adage still holds, — "What is one man's 
meat is another man's poison" ; and, 
moreover, what is meat at one time is 
poison to the same man at another. 
Bodily conditions, fear, anger, cold, may 
so retard secretion that the decomposable 
food taken may develop toxines within 
the body, because of the absence of anti- 
septic juices. 

Under the exhilarating effects of 
mountain air and sufficient exercise, even 
hot biscuit and mince pie may give up 
their nutritive value to a digestion which, 
in a city boarding-house, would refuse 
to be loaded with them. And so, you 
see, we must go about this kind of mis- 
sionary work with the widest catholicity 
of spirit, with the thought that whatever 
is has some reason for being, and for 
that reason we must search, before we 
fight the thing itself. 

Ideals are what we must strive for, 
not petty details ; and yet, in doing, the 
small details make often the largest part, 
— only we must distinguish clearly when 
they are essential. 

And so we send you on your way, to 
comfort and cheer the sick and despond- 
ent ; but we beg you not to lose sight of 
the higher aims of life, to which eating 
and drinking are but the stepping-stones, 
not the perfected edifice. We beg you 
to look higher than the dainty afternoon 
tea table or the Epicurean banquet, to 
that fuller life of intellectual pleasure, 
which is too often sacrificed, because of 
ignorance and unbelief in regard to 
physical conditions. 



J 



une 



' By Lalia Mitchell 



Breath of roses with dew drops wet 
And subtle odor of mignonette. 
Song of birds in the maples high 
And blue of a cloudless, perfect sky. 
Babble of brooks and drone of bees 



And whisper of winds through the locust trees. 
These are the signs that are sent to say 
June, the matchless, has come this way. 
Pausing an instant, our world to bless 
With the charm of her lingering, warm caress. 



Time and Clarissa 

By Alix Thorn 



WELL, there are compensations 
in being older," remarked 
Clarissa, settling herself com- 
fortably into a rocky niche, watching, as 
she spoke, the launch, which rose and 
fell on the blue water far below our feet. 
Down the long flight of steps which led 
to the float hurried a crowd of girls 
laughing and talking excitedly, and fol- 
lowing after them came several young 
fellows bearing feminine wraps, and 
feeling keenly conscious of their own 
importance in being thus protectors of 
the dependant sex. 

"As I remarked," continued Clarissa, 
"there are compensations in being older. 
/ was invited to that launch party, and 
were I ten years younger I would con- 
sider that I had to accept, but I preferred 
to lean back thus comfortably this Au- 
gust morning, and watch the passing 
show from my island watch tower. By 
the way," — quickly turning to me, "why 
don't you join our young friends? I 
heard you most cordially invited, yes, 
even enthusiastically. It's very nearly 
a sin for a 'gentleman growed,' not to 
fall into line." 

"One reason is that I don't in the 
least want to go," I remarked pensively, 
tugging at .my mustache, and looking 
down upon Clarissa's broad hat. 

It is but fair to add, just here, that I 
had never addressed Clarissa as Clar- 
issa, but I had always thought of her 
as Clarissa, which perhaps was quite as 
serious. At The Lodge, a really respec- 
table walk from our present retreat, 
was Clarissa's aunt. Miss Edgerton, and 
to distinguish her niece from the older 
woman every one said, "Miss Clarissa." 
In the weeks that I had known her I 
had become familiar with many of the 
ways of my fair companion, and after 
her remark on acquiring years, I was 
reasonably sure of her next move. In 



this I was not mistaken, for Clarissa 
began to play with a certain bewitching 
curl, which adorns the left side of her 
temple, and in this curl gleam unmis- 
takably two gray hairs. I told myself 
that it was time for my friend in the 
rocky niche to skillfully weave into the 
conversation how long past were her 
school days. 

"I'm terribly rusty on my Greek His- 
tory," said Clarissa almost directly, lift- 
ing grave blue eyes to mine, "but I 
studied it such a long time ago that it's 
pardonable, perhaps, to occasionally for- 
get." ^ 

"I should say it was," I agreed 
amiably, and fell to dreaming. When 
a man is thirty-eight, and unfortunately 
does not look the part, but is judgecT to 
be under thirty, it's a bit trying to have 
a girl like Clarissa keep rubbing it in 
about age. I couldn't shout my exact 
years from the roof of The Lodge, or 
when invited by the college crowd to 
join their revels could I take each one 
by the arm and whisper thrillingly into 
his ear that I felt a trifle past such joys. 
Again, I felt reasonably sure that Clar- 
issa was in her early thirties, and she 
looked any amount younger than that. 
But for the past week she had evidently 
chosen to discourage me, by allusions to 
her age, the subject that is popularly 
supposed to be a damper to sentiment. 
Now as we walked across the fields to 
The Lodge I formed a sudden resolve,, 
and so pleased was I with myself for 
making this resolve that I was con- 
strained to smile so hopefully that old 
Mrs. Wentworth, who was clipping bal- 
sam at the edge of the woods remarked, 
as we passed her, "you two young peo- 
ple must be having a good time." 

/7 am, speaking for myself, Mrs. 
Wentworth," I repHed, and Clarissa's 
sole acknowledgement was a chill nod in 



13 



14 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



the direction of our cheerful fellow 
boarder, while an added color grew in 
her roun'ded cheeks. 

Clarissa looked especially handsome 
this morning in a severely plain white 
linen, which suited well her slim figure, 
and she moved with the free, buoyant 
step of one accustomed to walking. 

Having decided upon a campaign, I 
thought best to begin as soon as occa- 
sion offered, and the opportunity was 
not long delayed. As Clarissa went into 
the office to look for mail I was met at 
the door by old Mr. Fanshaw, who 
clapped me on the shoulder, remarking, 
"Now why don't a great husky young 
fellow like you, join that launch party? 
Take all the fun you can get, I say." 

'To tell you the truth," Mr. Fanshaw, 
irbegan, raising my voice, "a man of my 
age, perhaps lacks youthful enthusiasm, 
but I believe in letting the younger set 
go off by themselves, sometimes, and 
thus be more free to have sport in their 
own way. 

"Shoo!" said my elderly friend, "you 
ain't old enough to talk that way, and 
you know you ain't." 

"At any rate, my heart is young," was 
my reply, as Clarissa passed us, and 
seated herself at the extreme end of the 
piazza, with her mail, and I walked slow- 
ly over in her direction. 

Towards evening an enveloping sea 
fog found our island, driving to the par- 
lors even the most rashly adventurous, 
and the great open fire seemed to give a 
royal welcome indoors. A pale young 
girl was enthusiastically urged to sing, 
and she obediently brought out her 
plump portfolio. We had applauded a 
lullaby of Grieg's, two of Jessie Gaynor's 
child songs, and then, as she turned over 
her music uncertainly in search of "one 
more," I inquired hopefully, "Aliss East- 
man, do you sing any of the dear old 
songs we used to hear years ago, such 
as, 'Some Day,' Tn the Gloaming,' or 
'Let Me Dream Again'?" 

Miss Eastman looked poHtely puz- 
zled — "I'm very sorry, Mr. Dodge," 



hesitatingly, "but I don't — I think I have 
heard my aunt sing one of those songs, 
and it was mighty pretty." 

At the risk of being thought old-fash- 
ioned, I said w^ith just a shade of dis- 
appointment in my voice, "I must say I 
love the old songs, and could wish that 
you young singers would persuade your 
teachers to give you one, now and then." 

I was conscious of Clarissa's surprised 
eyes fixed upon my face, but I continued 
to study a disheartening, painted plush 
panel, which decorated the wall, and gave 
generous encouragement to a banjo solo, 
which followed. 

"Now, that's funny," I heard a girl 
say to her mother as, the entertainment 
over, we hurried out, "that Mr. Dodge 
likes those queer songs; nobody sings 
them, Mother." 

"Ah, he's older than you, Elsie," was 
the low reply. 

The next evening being Wednesday, 
was reserved for dancing, and an ancient 
piano, and squeaky violin, ground out 
insistent two-steps, to the strains of 
which several couples slowly progressed 
down the long rooms. Clarissa and I 
were pacing the piazza, watching far 
off golden lights on other islands, or the 
white arm of a searchlight, that of a 
sudden would illumine fir-covered slopes, 
and dark waters. 

"Want to dance?" I asked Clarissa, as 
we came to a pause before a window and 
looked in at the scene of mild revelry. 

"No, thank you," she smiled, adjusting 
a Gibraltar scarf over her thin gown. 
"I feel that Aunt Harriet may need my 
assistance, at any moment, to right some 
puzzling tangle in her new crochetting, 
and, any way, I'm not so keen on dan- 
cing." 

I shook my head at the invitations for 
us to come in and be performers, in- 
stead of audience — "You see," I took 
pains to explain to a tall thin youth 
whose joy it seemed to be to stiffly 
attudinize, as he circled with his part- 
ner, from corner to corner, "Miss Clar- 
issa doesn't feel like dancing to-night, 



TIME AND CLARISSA 



15 



and as I observe you have only two- 
steps, they don't attract me, very much. 
If sometime we could have a waltz, or 
a quadrille, why I might be tempted. 
I've never felt really at home with the 
two-step." 

"My,- yes," was his rejoinder, ''any 
time you'd like a square why speak up. 
Why didn't you say so before? Perhaps 
some of the married people would like 
that kind too. I'll back you up, old boy," 
and he made his painful way around the 
room again. 

''Clarissa," said her aunt's voice, "will 
you help me, child. I cannot remember 
whether I purl here, or merely chain 
stitch." 

"I'll come right away," called Clarissa, 
^'right away, auntie dear," and turning 
to me with rather a mutinous look, "In 
your list of dances, wasn't it a bit dis- 
loyal not to mention the honest Virginia 
Reel?" and she was gone. 

It was the next morning that I met 
the Rector, as I was crossing the bridge 
to the island. He had come out of his 
cottage accompanied by an ecstatic 
cocker spaniel, and we paused to watch 
the fishermen dropping in their lines, 
now at this post, then at one much far- 
ther down, in the hope of winning luck 
by change. Not unfrequently their in- 
dustry was rewarded by a flounder, or 
a toni cod, and bait was cheerfully ex- 
changed while the merits of worms or 
small clams were eagerly discussed. "I 
understand you preach at the chapel next 
Sunday," I, said, glancing up. the hilly 
road whose summit was crowned by a 
tiny spire. 

"Yes, I believe I did promise to con- 
duct service. Are you men down at The 
Lodge all coming out to hear me?" — 
smiling quizzically at me through his 
glasses. 

"I for one," was my hearty rejoinder. 
I honestly liked the stout, jolly rector, 
and his optimistic views of life. It was 
not the first time we had walked to- 
gether, discussing hunting and fishing, in 
Maine and elsewhere, on sundry occa- 



sions when I was unavoidably absent 
from Clarissa. Her aunt had a singular- 
ly selfish fashion of sometimes claiming 
her niece for an entire morning or after- 



noon. 



"Being merely a layman," I said as 
we took the sandy road to the Cove, "it 
may not be fitting if I venture to make 
a suggestion as to your sermon next 
Sunday, but if you haven't entirely de- 
cided upon a talk, would you mind giv- 
ing one on the joys of old age, or, facing 
calmly advancing years, or that idea?" 

The rector's eyes twinkled apprecia- 
tively — "And this in summer," he said — 
"do I hear aright? Well," sobering, 
"oddly enough it happens that I have 
an address with me, which I call, 'The 
Weight of Years,' and I shall be very 
glad to give it instead of the one that I 
had half decided upon. Remember, 
Dodge," glancing at his watch, "I shall 
look for you in the congregation." 

"And your search shall not be in vain," 
I said to myself, watching him striding 
off down a winding path. 

It was Clarissa, all in palest pink, who 
walked sedately to church by her aunt's 
side, and I followed on at a discreet dis- 
tance, with Mr. Fanshaw. Two of the 
chapel windows were open, and a fresh, 
salt wind stirred the goldenrod in the 
brass jar in, the one memorial window. 
Far off twitterings sounded in the peace- 
ful open fields by which we were sur- 
rounded, and sometimes was heard the 
mellow whistle of a passing launch. 

I chose a seat where I could watth 
Clarissa's expressive face, and its swift 
changes were a source of infinite grati- 
fication to me. Sweet solemnity, appre- 
ciation of the hymns, interested joining 
in the service, growing surprise at the 
topic, evident annoyance, inward amuse- 
ment, then swift decision, her gaze wan- 
dering from the sunlit chapel off to sun- 
lit fields, which the blue water bounded. 

I had no opportunity to see Clarissa 
the rest of the day, for a bevy of old 
ladies came in on the afternoon boat, 
friends of her aunt, who were to leave 



16 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



in the morning. Clarissa went down to 
the pier to see them off, and I felt an 
unreasoning jealousy as I observed from 
a distance her gentle ministrations, and 
pretty little attentions. Now if I were 
to go away on the boat, be it morning or 
afternoon, I pondered, Clarissa would 
never think of giving me such a send- 
off; I was not a suitable old lady, of 
course, yet, were I a truly old gentleman, 
would it not be the same? 

It was after breakfast that I found 
a curiously wide awake Clarissa on the 
piazza. It seemed to me that she stood 
even more aggressively erect than 
usual ; her eyes, always wide open, 
were wider than I had ever seen them, 
and she glowed with a fine color. She 
was wearing one of those coquettishly 
drooping hats, an embroidered, soft 
looking affair — which is called, I think, 
lingerie. "Good morning. Miss Clar- 
issa," I said, ''to use an entirely new 
simile, y^ look as fresh as a daisy." 



''Quite renews your youth, just to 
see me, doesn't it? Please don't stand,- 
here is a comfortable chair," was Clar- 
issa's mocking answer, but her lips curled 
in amused fashion. 

"Stop," I said, "I do feel so disgrace- 
fully youthful at this moment," and 
encouraged by something in her face — 
"Oh, let us be young together, rashly, 
deliciously young," and imploringly, 
"Let's be little children again, the two 
of us, the sort that love each other, 
Clarissa." 

Clarissa's sweet eyes refused to meet 
mine, but I felt that they were smiling. 
"We'll see about it," she half whis- 
pered, and my joyous reply was — 

"When I was a small boy, oh no, not 
so very long ago, comparatively a short 
time, I remember when my mother 
said she'd see about a thing, she meant 
she would do it," and light heartedly I 
followed her light footsteps down the 
cliff w^alk. 



Grandmother's Parlor 

By Mrs. J. W. Riddell 



THE great open fire blazes cheer- 
fully on the hearth as I pull up 
my chair for a few moments to 
rest and, ahy yes, — to dream, perchance, 
of the future with its mighty possibili- 
ties, and perchance of, — but here a 
strange and spicy fragrance comes to 
me as if fanned from the heart of the 
dancing flames. 

What is it so new, and yet so strangely 
familiar, so near, and yet so mysteri- 
ously distant? / 

Why, of course it is grandmother's 
parlor, and I am a little boy waiting 
without, listening, fearing to step, lest 
I arouse Aunt Jane from her reading 
in the opposite room. 

All is still, and I pass on to the door 
tightly shut against intruders. Turning 
the knob, I open it slowly and squeeze 
in, ever alarmed lest I disturb its anat- 



omy to the point of its crying out. That 
would bring Aunt Jane and Grand- 
mother with one accord and I, — well, I 
won't dwell on it, it is too unpleasant. 

It is dark and for a moment I wait, 
then steal across to the window and open 
the shutter just a crack to let in the 
light. 

Uncle Peleg and Aunt Sophia look 
down at me from their lofty positions 
above the mantelpiece. Aunt Sophia 
must have used glue on that parted hair, 
for it even eclipses Aunt Jane's in 
smoothness, and that is saying much. 
Uncle Peleg, — well, I feel some uneasi- 
ness about even looking his portrait 
straight in the face, for it always seems 
as if he were on the point of stepping 
down from that gilt frame and asserting 
his rights, and most emphatically, too, 
if one were to judge from the square 



GRANDMOTHER'S PARLOR 



17 



jaw and stern mouth in the picture. He 
seems to have appointed himself special 
guardian over the wonderful vase of 
wax flowers which repose under glass. 
It would indeed be a pleasure to mount 
the haircloth armchair and view this 
wonderful example of art at close range, 
but, under Uncle Peleg's watchful eye, 
this pleasure must not be thought of. 

On the opposite side of the room, and 
I feel more comfortable with my back 
toward Uncle Peleg, is the great sofa 
covered with haircloth to match the 
chairs. Here one may sit for one bliss- 
ful moment, then slide over that shiny 
surface to the floor below. To maintain 
his equilibrium must have been a per- 
son's prime motive when seated on this 
piece of furniture. 

Nearby on the teakwood table is a 
curious jar brought from over the sea, 
and this is worth stopping to examine, 
for it is full of rose-petals. I had picked 
some from the bushes myself and dried 
them, in the sun, but they didn't smell 
like Grandmother's. Perhaps hers came 
with the jar, who knows? Anyway, af- 
ter taking one long whiff after another, 
I replace the cover and pass on to look 
at a picture all worked in worsteds. 
Aunt Sophia had made it, so they told 
me, at the age of twelve. Well, I had 
always believed Aunt Sophia capable of 
moving the earth if she had so desired, 
so this was not astonishing. I was only 
glad that I wasn't a girl, for then some 
such feat of skill might have been ex- 
pected of me. 

I would much rather go to sea as 
Grandfather had and bring home teak- 
wood tables, and perhaps kill pirates. 
Of the teakwood tables I am sure, but 
feel some doubt concerning the pirates. 
Perhaps he had killed one or two; any- 
way I will give him the benefit of the 
doubt. 

The little cabinet over in the corner, 
standing on four short carved legs, con- 
tains shells, and here is a golden treas- 
ury. As I hold one of them to my ear, 
I fancy I hear the distant roar of some 



mighty ocean resounding within, and 
closing my eyes, I see great vessels 
tossed to and fro in a storm, and myself 
in command of some gallant ship com- 
ing to the rescue. Or, perhaps, this roar- 
ing ocean is dashing against a sandy 
beach where bands of natives are wait- 
ing to capture ships which may come 
that way. When Grandfather was here 
he used to tell of such things. 

After listening to these for a time,. 
I pick up the little necklace of tiny 
pink and green shells, which had been 
made by a little girl on some far away 
island in the Pacific Ocean and pre- 
sented to Grandfather by her parents. 
Aunt Jane had been allowed to wear it 
to a wedding once when she was a little 
girl, but she had to be ever so careful, 
and after that it had been put away in 
the cabinet. 

I mustn't stop longer here, for on the 
great centre table is a wonderful album 
in the back of which is a music box. 
Uncle Peleg brought this from South 
America, and in the front part are the 
pictures of four beautiful Spanish la- 
dies, their faces half hidden behind their 
lace mantillas. Uncle Peleg had known 
their husbands, Grandmother said, and 
when he started home they bade him 
bring the album as a gift to Aunt Sophia. 
However, the back part is more inter- 
esting to me. O, to take the key and 
wind that music box, but unfortunately 
for me, both Aunt Jane and Grand- 
mother have unimpaired hearing. That 
exciting proceeding must be postponed 
until Thanksgiving Day, when Uncle 
Walter and Aunt Delia come with their 
four boys to spend the day. Then at 
exactly half past four in the afternoon 
the parlor door will be opened and we will 
pass through in single file and sit down. 
Grandmother will then bring the lamp 
from the sitting room and place it on 
the worsted lamp mat in the centre of 
the mahogany table. After a few mo- 
ments of polite conversation Uncle Wal- 
ter will say, "Come, Mother, let's have 
a tune." Then in breathless anticipation 



18 



THE BOSTON COOKING- SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



we will wait until Grandmother winds 
the music box and sets it to playing some 
Spanish dance song. Even Aunt Jane 
cannot be trusted to perform this act, 
so why should I ever hope to have it 
entrusted to me. After examining the 
works and picking the little wheels in 
its interior with a bent pin, I carefully 
close the album. Thanksgiving Day is 
two months off, so I must wait. 

There is nothing to prevent my open- 
ing the beautiful fan nearby with its 
iA^ory sticks and its pictures of fashion- 
able ladies handpainted on satin. ' These 
beautiful ladies wear party gowns and 
have their hair piled high on their heads, 
while the gentlemen are resplendent in 
satin coats and knee-breeches. I laugh 
at the thoughts of Uncle Peleg attired 
in such gorgeous raiment. Evidently it 
hadn't been the fashion in his time, any- 
way not for him. 

There is another fan here made of 
soft downy feathers with carved sticks 
of sweet scented sandalwood. This 
Grandmother carried on her wedding 
day, when she wore the beautiful white 
satin dress which is laid away in a great 
chest in the attic. 

On the other side of the table is a 
ponderous volume of Bunyan's Pilgrim's 
Progress, and opening the cover, one 
sees the words, "Will Miss Jane Cramp- 
ton please accept this gift as a token of 
the love and esteem of her pupils." 

Aunt Jane once taught school and this 
was the gift of her last class. I know 
the lines by heart, for on every Thanks- 
giving Day since I can remember Uncle 
Weaker has read them aloud and then 
asked Aunt Jane the names of each and 
every one who belonged to that famous 
class. And hasn't Aunt Jane just as 
regularly expounded at length on their 
scholarly qualities until we have won- 
dered how it was possible for one class 
of boys and girls to possess so much 
knowledge between them. But then, with 
such a teacher it was not to be wondered 
at. 

I must hasten on, for they will be 



looking for me and I still have "The 
Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner" to scan 
from cover to cover. This volume is so 
large that it occupies a place on the floor 
and leans against the wall. I always 
spend so much time on other things that 
I have to hurry through this great book 
with its awe inspiring illustrations. 
Some day I mean to come and spend a 
whole hour looking at it, but just now 
time is precious, so after a hasty glance 
at each page, I replace it against the 
wall. 

This wall itself is worthy af some no- 
tice, covered as it is with such interest- 
ing paper. One can invent fairy stories 
w^hen looking at it, with its trees and 
mountains and little ships sailing over 
miniature blue seas. 

If anyone on a gala day happens to 
hit this precious paper with the back of 
his chair, that person is in danger of 
being banished, chair and all, to a posi- 
tion outside the door, from which posi- 
tion he 'is obliged to view his more for- 
tunate fellows. Once outside no amount 
of pleading will gain him admittance un- 
til another celebration takes place at 
some future time. 

Before I leave this garden of enchant- 
ment I must examine the lacquer work- 
box with its little closets and drawers, 
one of which opens with a secret spring. 
In that secret drawer inside a little gilt 
box are two tiny brown curls. These 
are never exhibited and I do not know 
their history. I remember seeing tears 
in Grandmother's eyes once w^hen she 
opened the drawer and looked at them,- 
but when I asked her whose they were 
she made no reply. 

I hear a step; it is Aunt Jane on the 
stairs, and I know that I shall be able 
to escape unnoticed, so after closing the 
shutter and taking one last whiff from 
the rose-jar, I make ready to leave the 
room. 

There is one thing, though, that I have 
forgotten, and that is the pink, sugary 
looking vase that stands on the table 
between the two front windows. I must 



THE ISLES OF THE SEA 



19 



not go without first taking this in my 
hands and putting it up to my mouth 
to be sure that it isn't really made of 
pink candy. I always have hopes of its 
tasting sweet. But no, it remains the 
same as before, so I leave it on the 
table and listen once more. 

Yes, all is still, so I quietly open the 
door and pass through. 

My fire has burned low and I rouse 
myself to put on a log. I have been 
back in that mystery land of my child- 
hood, have been a boy again, in my 
grandmother's home, that dear woman 
who was both mother and father to me. 

The parlor is a thing of the past, but 
on the table here in my library stands 
a curious jar brought from over the sea, 
and when one lifts the cover a faint 
odor of rose-petals arises. Near to it 
stands a little lacquer work-box with a 
secret drawer, and in this drawer are 
the two brown curls, which I have since 
learned belonged* to my dear mother 
who left me even before I saw her. 

Uncle Peleg and Aunt Sophia found 



their last resting place in Uncle Walter's 
attic where they no doubt still stand 
guard over certain vases of wax flowers. 

My little son has spent many a happy 
hour listening to the roar of the mighty 
ocean in those speckled shells, and per- 
haps he, even as I, sees pictures which 
he thinks wiser to keep to himself. 

The Spanish dance songs are heard 
no more ; indeed, the point of a bent pin 
might here tell a tale, but it sufficeth to 
say that on a certain Thanksgiving Day, 
many years ago, the music box refused 
to work and no amount of oiling or shak- 
ing would bring forth a sound. It cer- 
tainly was very strange, very strange 
indeed. Only the four Spanish ladies 
remain to tell the tale, and I fancy that 
they draw their mantillas more closely 
about their faces whenever it is men- 
tioned. 

These things are all that are left, but 
they never fail to bring back to me the 
sweetest memories of those stolen hours 
of pleasure spent in Grandmother's par- 
lor. 



Song 
By Helen Coale Crew 



hear ! O hear 
June draweth near ! 

1 know it by the trilling clear 
From bluebird's breast, 
When from his nest 

He rises in the golden air. 



O see! O see! 

How yonder tree 

Is clothed in white, all maidenly 

While every bloom 

Sweet with perfume, 

Is plundered by a dusty bee. 



O smell and taste! 

For now in haste 

The sun is opening every flower. 

See yonder rose 

Its heart disclose; 

June ripens in one perfect hour ! 



The Isles of the Sea 

By Helen Forrest 



MARION stretched round white 
arms lazily above her head, hit, 
unexpectedly, the back of her 
berth, and wrathfully examined her slim 



hand for proof of the collision. Her 
aunt, trimly embonpoint in long coat and 
small hat fresh from ten times around 
the deck, infused an impression of elec- 



20 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



tricity. 'Tositively"— said the girl— 'T 
will not get up until it's too late for me 
to hear the people with their bouillon 
and biscuit. Til be on deck then." 

"Hear them," broke in her aunt, "you 
mean see them." 

"No, I don't mean see them," this with 
a small moue of disgust. "It's the crackle 
of the biscuit and the swish of the bouil- 
lon that makes me sick; honestly, it's 
what's keeping me flat and I know too 
much to get in it." 

"If only," her aunt broke, resignedly, 
"you would keep tramping the way I do, 
out in the fresh air — don't go to sleep 
again, anyway — it's half past ten," and 
the cheerful tramper of decks was off. 

Half an hour later a hopeful sopho- 
more from somewhere, Marion couldn't 
remember, though she conscientiously 
tried, mentally, to ticket him, — tucked 
in her rug carefully about her and un- 
willingly joined a trio who were clamor- 
ing for a fourth to play shuffle board, — 
leaving her a slim meditative chrysahs. 

The deck rose and fell monotonously, 
there was a rush of passengers to the 
rail — "Oh, Miss Nelson," called some- 
one, "do get up and see this whale!" 
A sailor rolled by, impassively. "Isn't 
that a whale?" demanded the enthusiast, 
and the man in blue answered, resign- 
edly, "No, -it ain't nothing." 

She hadn't avoided the bouillon after 
all — it must have been late. She closed 
her eyes as it went by and decided to 
face what she had termed the swish and 
the crackle, going on cheerfully all about 
her. How could people eat and eat 
again! Above the human stoking, rose 
a man's voice, low toned but clear, 
plainly he was just behind her chair. 
"There's always a man in it, when a 
woman crosses the ocean; either she's 
running away from a man or she's run- 
ning after one." 

Marion sat upright, — if only she knew 
the man she would turn around and 
deny such an arrant and palpably mas- 
culine prevarication, — but her smooth 
cheek flushed, and her brown eyes dark- 



ened at her second thought: why had 
she herself come on this stupid voyage! 
Not, surely, after a man, not truly away 
from one; but there was a man in all 
conscience, a man in the story, the man 
she was trying to forget. 

She had never realized what slow 
work it is to forget, she had never, until 
this late surprising episode, been able to 
remember. There were days when the 
story of last summer lay wrapped away 
in a mantle of excuse which she, for 
her own comfort, was weaving around 
it ; perhaps, in time, she might work over 
this grain of discomfort until, oyster 
fashion, it had become a pearl. For the 
hundredth time she told herself that she 
wasn't in love. Who would be, with a 
man who didn't care? It was only that 
her pride was touched and that she was 
waiting for a chance to show him how 
little it all meant to her. 

He had made her summer; he wasn't 
like the other men; how brown and 
strong, how understanding he was, how 
she had learned to count on him! 

They had walked ten miles over the 
mountain and had come back in the face 
of a wonderful sunset; that last day he 
sat at her feet and told her about his 
work, the work in the open — the actual 
outdoor work was the best part of his 
electrical engineering. She went off the 
next morning on that stupid two days* 
driving trip, and when she came back 
to the hotel he was gone; gone, and 
positively not a word for her. Whoever 
heard of such rudeness? Such a man 
wasn't worth remembering, and yet, be- 
ing given to a painful honesty in her 
own thoughts, she knew it was because 
of him that she had felt the restlessness 
that had driven her to join her aunt in 
her trip to the Riviera. 

The green sea before her eyes seemed 
changed to green meadows, the crowded 
deck to the piazza. Could she ever for- 
get that horrid Smith child who danced 
up to her singing at the top of her voice, 
"Your fellow's gone, your fellow's 
gone I" 



THE ISLES OF THE SEA 



21 



It was all stamped indelibly on her 
mind, — how she had buried herself in a 
pile of letters and, she blushed to re- 
member, had let people believe, though 
she hadn't really said so, that one letter 
was from him. Such memories are poor 
companions. Marion shook herself free 
of rug and pillows, and went in search 
of her progressive relative, now far for- 
ward watching almost breathlessly the 
growing panorama of the Azores. With 
wind-swept skirts and her brown wavy 
hair wet with the salt spray, the girl 
watched, entranced, a stage setting, 
queer red-brown earth, a rugged coast, 
up-slanting green fields with a tracing 
of vineyards. The coloring seemed 
fairly overdone, but in its wild, weird 
freedom it surely was a fit setting for 
an Ibsen play. Now high brown tow- 
.ers, and a white monastery crowning a 
hill — land! land! Nearer, until the flat 
houses crowded the coast. Blue houses, 
pink, — colors like those of a kaleide- 
scope. 

''Gad," broke in a man's voice, "that 
looks good to me. I believe I'll start in 
business there; no ocean travel for 
mine." 

A hurried luncheon and a great calm, 
a lull that was almost startling; the 
mighty pulse of the engine had ceased 
to beat, and the great ship lay quietly 
at anchor while, outside, the native boats 
swarmed about her, manned by hairy, 
gaily dressed men who called derisively 
to one another in a strange tongue as 
they crowded for first place at the foot 
of the deftly lowered steps. 

Marion followed her aunt to one of 
these curious boats, the captain himself 
pointing smilingly to the sign which an- 
nounced that the boat would be under 
weigh at five o'clock. The girl felt 
thrilled and interested for the first time 
since she began this dreary voyage; the 
rowboat rose high on one wave and sank 
into a valley of the next, but no terror, 
and none of the deadly sickness that 
began to be greenly evident on some of 
the faces, disturbed her. She felt the 



waves under her with the exhilaration 
that comes from a gallop on a good 
horse. 

The town seemed emptied, the people 
draw^n to the pier; the stopping of the 
great liner made it a holiday. The small 
boats drew up before the Custom House, 
dingy white and deserted, next to a fas- 
cinating balconied structure in blue and 
cream with steps leading apparently into 
the harbor. 

The brown-skinned natives met them 
with smiles and bows, waved their hands 
from open windows as the travelers 
drove by in antiquated vehicles, two- 
wheeled wagons, and victorias of the 
sort that one sees in old prints. 

"Bring on your mayor; I want to 
make a speech," shouted one exhilarated 
youth, standing erect in his carriage, and 
someone, with the first word of English 
they had heard, answered, "Fool man." 

Marion and her aunt left their bump- 
ing victoria and poked into dismal shops 
where their fellow-travelers were hang- 
ing delightedly over piles of post cards, 
others snapping cameras at the unfa- 
miliar sights everywhere, or stopping in 
the streets to load themselves down with 
fresh fruit ofifered by dark-skinned ven- 
dors at every corner. 

A woman was washing clothes in a 
public fountain in the dusty square, and 
around a turn in the winding street ap- 
peared a donkey bearing a little woman 
in native costume, a long black cape 
reaching nearly to her feet, and opening 
over a yellow gown. On her head a 
tremendous black hood, boned to the 
size and shape of a basket. Walking in 
the road, — there were no sidewalks, — 
Marion started in pursuit of a boy whose 
donkey bore wicker panniers loaded with 
wonderful strawberries. She called to 
him to stop, then reflecting that her 
words naturally meant nothing to this 
Portuguese-speaking * lad, hurried after 
him. She was sure he picked, from her 
hand, too many of the queer coins that 
the Purser had given her in exchange 

(Continued on Page xviii) 



22 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR 

PubEcation Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street Boston, Mass. 

Subscription $1 00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 

Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 

To OTHER Foreign Countries 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires ; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the o/J address 
as well as the nezv. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 

THE PINES. 

How often when my faith declines, 
And on my soul black doubts intrude, 

Have I besought the needled pines 
To grant me balm of solitude. 

To them I bring my dearest grief, 

Fatigue, and throbbing brain; but these 

Have not availed to bar relief 
And solace of the scented trees. 

Outstretched beneath them on the ground, 
With limbs relaxed and senses still, , 

Another being have I found, 
A stronger heart, a purer will. 

What the cool winds have whispered through 
Their tuneful branches I have heard. 

And clearer than the perfect blue 

Of heaven hath been the spirit's word. 

No longer now I make appeal 

To logic or the vexing creed: 

And that is all I ask or need. 
The presence of the pines I feel. 

Sweet is that boon the grove bequeathes • 
Where bitter doubt and striving cease. 

And my too restless spirit breathes 
Unfathomable depths of peace. 

— Leslie Pinckney Hill. 



ABOUT SUBSCRIPTIONS 

THE subscription price of this 
magazine is uniformly one and 
the same, one dollar a year, to each 
and every subscriber. We can not 
change this price or produce the maga- 
zine for less money, and besides, on 
account of the quality and character of 
its contents, the publication is well worth 
each year much more than it costs. 

At the same time to those who will 
take the pains to send us new subscrip- 
tions we continue to give suitable and 
substantial rewards. For two new sub- 
scriptions we renew your subscription 
for one year. For six new subscriptions 
we give the popular chafing dish. For 
seven new subscriptions we give a beau- 
tiful casserole that costs considerable 
more to provide than the chafer. 

We are glad to pay liberally those who 
will make the Cooking-School Maga- 
zine known and send us new subscrip- 
tions. 

THE FIRELESS COOKER 

FROM the communications received 
at this office many people seem to 
be interested in the possibilities of the 
fireless cooker, while not a few seem to 
fail to understand the place it is fitted 
to occupy in the kitchen laboratory. 

All cooking is done by the application 
of heat in some form ; without heat there 
is no cooking that we know anything 
about. Now, the fireless cooker is not a 
generator of heat. It neither generates 
heat nor does it provide a place where 
heat can be generated. On the other 
hand, it is simply a utensil or contri- 
vance to conserve heat that has been 
produced elsewhere. The fireless cooker, 
then, is a box or receptacle with tight- 
closed walls, which are a non-conductor 
of heat. And on exactly the same prin- 
ciple that the cooker conserves heat, it 
conserves cold, also. That is, neither 
heat nor cold passes readily from within 
the non-condudting walls of the cooker 
outside, nor from the outside within the 



EDITORIALS 



23 



same. The fireless cooker, then, is a well 
designed appliance to keep hot things hot 
and cold things cold. 

The advantages of cooking certain ar- 
ticles by the long-continued, slow process 
is well known to good cooks ; and right 
here comes in the usefulness of the cas- 
serole and fireless cooker. For instance, 
certain dishes, as meats, puddings, cus- 
tards, etc., after being thoroughly heated 
by the coal or gas range, may be quickly 
transferred to the fireless cooker and 
inclosed air-tight. After ten or twelve 
hours these dishes will be found not only 
to have been transformed by the long, 
slow process of cooking in the pent-up 
heat into well-cooked and delicious 
viands, but also to be still hot. Hence 
the primary use of the fireless cooker 
is to provide a ready means for the ap- 
plication of the long, slow process of 
cooking; and, with it, this process can 
be carried on as well by night as by day. 
The individual housekeeper will soon 
learn how to adapt its uses to her own 
times and occasions and special needs. 

THE WOMAN'S SHARE IN HOME- 
BUILDING 

HUMAN nature is a puzzle, surely ! 
— as exasperating sometimes as it 
is always fascinating and unsolvable. 

My special grievance just now is the 
tendency among women to run to ex- 
tremes. In home-management they are 
drudges or drones. In society they are 
unneighborly hermits or gossipy gad- 
abouts. In church affairs they do too 
much or nothing at all. In civic rela- 
tions they are of the never-read-a-news- 
paper kind or suffragettes. 

Heaven save us from any of these 
extremes ! 

And, ah me, the sad consequences of 
it all that we see about us ! 

I have tw^o neighbors. One gets his 
own breakfast every morning and goes 
off to work before his wife is awake. 
She is of the drone species. The other 
neighbor wants seven kinds of vegetables 
on his dinner-table, and "thinks he has 



no meal at all with less than five." 
Now, every woman who has done house- 
work knows the labor involved in seven 
kinds of vegetables on the table, and 
will quickly vote his wife a drudge. 

The mother who slaves for her chil- 
dren and the one who lets them bring 
themselves up live side by side in every 
village of America. 

O, dont we wish the human family 
could be put into some sort of a hopper, 
shaken together, and turned out w4th all 
the funny corners rubbed off ! Not with 
the bumps of individuality gone — for that 
would make humanity as monotonous 
and uninteresting as a flock of sheep — 
but with the lop-sidedness straightened 
and the sharp prongs of our craziness 
broken off ! We so sorely need the level- 
ing of applied common sense in our daily 
living. 

But as the need is individual, so the 
reformation becomes a personal matter. 
Each of us must settle for herself the 
''What-is-worth-while" question, while 
she asks of her conscience, ''What is 
my tangent?" "Am I leaving the real 
and best to chase a will o' the wisp?" 
"Am I following my fancies rather than 
my judgment?" "Am I robbing Peter 
to pay Paul?" 

Suppose we narrow our thinking to 
the one line of home-making. 

First of all, a w^oman on whom de- 
volves the management of a home needs 
to place a proper estimate — a true val- 
uation on it and on herself. If she 
neither overestimates nor undervalues 
either, then undoubtedly there will be no 
"tangent," and she will be neither a 
drudge nor a drone. 

As she works and sings she will also 
be thanking God that her part in the 
home-building is on the inside of the 
four w^alls, while her husband's part is 
on the weather-swept outside. 

Yet she works at the fountain-head of 
all life; for from the home stream in- 
fluences limited in scope only with the 
earth's circumference, and limited in 
time only with the existence of the souls 



24 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



of men. 

We know that each home, whether of 
high or low estate, should be healthful, 
comfortable, happy, inspirational and 
righteous, and these great fundamental 
things lie in the house-mother's slender 
hands. 

Whether she performs the actual la- 
bor necessary to the health and comfort 
within those four walls depends upon 
the family income; but she must see to 
it that both are there to the best of her 
abihty. And be the home rich or poor, 
it may be healthful and comfortable un- 
der ordinary conditions. 

The happiness, inspiration and right- 
eousness likewise depend almost solely 
upon her, for the husband, away most 
of the time, must play but a minor part 
in this. According to her capability in 
management, her ambition for better 
things, her amiability of disposition, and 
the principles that actuate her personal 
life, will be the home she evolves from 
wood and brick and mortar. 

His duty toward her is summed up in 
his marriage vow, put to work : ''To love, 
cherish and support as God gives abil- 
ity." No more, no less. 

As working partners (neither ''silent"), 
they are joined in building a home, mate- 
rial and immaterial, she working on the 
' inside, he on the outside, each bearing 
the part cheerfully, industriously, neither 
shirking nor complaining, each quietly 
sacrificing for the other, and both happy 
in the common good. 

Outside duties are her creation; in- 
side duties are his. Each should have 
a certain amount. 

While home-making will ever mean a 
sacrifice of personal ease, it is not a 
sacrifice of personal good or happiness, 
for both will be found in it when sanely 
sought. Each has a right to expect un- 
selfishness, moral support, sympathy, co- 
operation and love from the other, while 
the two voices blend in the song all 
humanity loves : "Home, Sweet Home." 

L. M. C. 



A SWEET VOICE. 

Very few women realize what an 
effect a sweet voice has on a man. A 
woman may be very pretty to look upon, 
may be faultlessly dressed and attractive 
in every way, and yet too often directly 
she opens her mouth and speaks the 
spell is broken and the charm is gone. 
And all this need never be so. 

Very few voices are so naturally bad 
that they will not succumb to training, 
and the voice can be trained to be just 
as sweet and gentle as we please to 
make it. 

A woman should speak in a low voice. 
She should never allow her voice to 
raise itself to a high pitch. Men do 
not like a shrill-voiced woman. 

She should not shout her orders to 
the servants. This shouting and raising 
of the voice spoils the tone and quality 
and tends to make it harsh. 

A pretty voice is a powerful attrac- 
tion in a woman, and she who would 
add to her charm a wondrous fascina- 
tion should cultivate a voice "ever soft, 
gentle and low." 



"The mintage of wisdom is to know 
that rest is rust, and that real life is 
in love, laughter and work." 

WHAT SAY YOU? 

Some say that we should "Eat to live," 

And some say "Live to eat," 
But look at it whichever way, 

'Tis true, to live, we eat. 

Now those who "Live to eat" will say, 

To eat is not a fad, 
But one of life's rare specialties, 

To make them gay and glad. 

While those who "Eat to live'' contend, 

To make the noblest race. 
Pure food, by science well combined. 

Will set a moral pace. 

Food, simple, tasty, wholesome, too. 
Cooked well, will nourish man ; 

And help produce the brawn and brain, 
Always God's cherished plan. 

By Caroline L. Sumner. 




POP OVERS, WITH SUGARED STRAWBERRIES 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful. 



Fillets of Halibut with Asparagus 
Tips 

FOR eight fillets purchase two 
slices of halibut, cut, half an 
inch thick, from below the body 
opening of a small fish. Remove skin 
and bones and use these with two or 
three slices, each, of onion and carrot, 
two stalks of parsley and a few leaves 
of sweet basil (dried) in making stock. 
Season the fillets with salt and pepper; 
after squeezing over them a few drops 
of lemon juice, fold in the middle over a 
piece of uncooked potato, half an inch 
thick and as long as the fillets are wide, 
well-buttered, that it may be removed 
easily; pour over the fillets,, disposed 
in an agate baking dish, a little of 
the fish stock and let cook about fif- 
teen minutes, basting with the stock 
three times. Chop fine two ounces 
of fresh mushrooms and cook in one or 



two tablespoonfuls of butter about five 
minutes ; add one-fourth a cup of cream 
and one-half a cup of fresh cooked-and- 
drained asparagus heads. Set the fillets 
of fish on a serving dish, first removing 
the pieces of potato ; add the liquid in 
the pan to the mushrooms, cream, etc., 
and let boil once, then pour over the fish 
and serve. Serve at the same time rolls 
or potatoes in some fancy style. 

Glazed Sweetbreads, with Canned 
Mushrooms 

Soak and clean the sweetbreads and 
lard them on the best sides. Lay the 
trimmings of pork in a terrine ; add a 
tablespoonful of chopped onion, two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped carrot, two 
parsley branches and a stalk of celery 
cut in bits ; lay the sweetbreads on the 
vegetables, larded side upwards ; add 
about a cup of hot broth, cover the dish 
and let cook in the oven about forty- 



25 



26 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



five minutes. Set the sweetbreads on 
a shallow dish, baste the sweetbreads 
with melted glaze or with butter, and 
let stand in the oven to become nicely 
but delicately browned. Repeat the bast- 
ing every five minutes. In the meantime 
strain ofif the liquid from the terrine, 
pressing out all that is possible from 
the vegetables, and use this with cream 
as the liquid in making sauce. For a 
pair of sweetbreads make a cup of sauce 
and add a dozen and a half of canned 
mushrooms. Set the sweetbreads in the 
centre of a dish and pour the sauce and 
mushrooms around them. This dish 
may be prepared in a casserole; in this 
case simply add hot cream with the 



needed. Pound the pulp smooth; add 
one of the unbeaten whites of eggs and 
pound smooth ; add the other white and 
pound again ; add the cold sauce, and 
again pound smooth, then press through 
a sieve. A gravy strainer (not wire) 
set firmly into a part of a double boiler 
and a wooden pentle answer for this 
purpose, but with the ''Economy colan- 
der" the work can be done more quickly 
and easily. Fold in the whites of eggs 
and the cream, prepared as above, and 
use to fill quenelle molds, carefully but- 
tered and sprinkled with chopped pis* 
tachio nuts or truffles. Set the molds on 
several folds of clean cloth, surround 
with boiling water, and let cook in the 




LADY CABBAGE 



mushrooms to the vegetables and sweet- 
breads, season as needed and serve from 
the casserole. 

Veal Quenelles, with Green Peas 

The ingredients are : eight ounces 
(one cup) of veal pulp, one-fourth a 
cup of cold, white or Bechamel sauce, 
two unbeaten whites of eggs, half a tea- 
spoonful, each, of salt and paprika, the 
beaten whites of two eggs and one cup 
of cream, beaten firm. To secure the 
pulp purchase slices of veal cut from the 
leg. Cut off small pieces of the meat 
and scrape with a sharp knife in the 
direction the fibres run; the pulp thus 
removed from the fibres is what is 



oven until firm. With the veal trim- 
mings, two slices of onion, a few bits 
of carrot, a branch of parsley and half 
a teaspoonful of celery seeds, with cold 
water to cover, make a broth. Use one 
cup of this and half a cup of cream as 
the liquid for a sauce to be served with 
the quenelles. Set the quenelles on but- 
tered slices of toast around a mound of 
hot green peas, seasoned with salt, pep- 
per and butter. Serve the sauce in a 
bowl. The quenelles may be made in 
advance and reheated in a dish of hot 
water at time of serving. Buttered ta- 
blespoons may be used in place of quen- 
elle molds. 

Lady Cabbage 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



27 



Cut a cabbage in quarters and remove til firm. 
the hard centre ; let boil fifteen minutes, a scant 



For a pint of quenelles make 
pint of sauce, using full pro- 




VEAL QUENELLES, WITH GREEN PEAS . . QUENELLE MOLDS 



drain and add fresh boiling water and 
let cook until tender ; drain and set aside 
until cold. Chop the cabbage. To three 
cups of the cabbage add half a teaspoon- 
ful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, 
one tablespoonful of melted butter, two 
or three well-beaten eggs and three- 
fourths a cup of rich milk. Mix all to- 
gether thoroughly and turn into a but- 
tered baking dish. Let cook surrounded 
with boiling water until firm. Serve 
from the baking dish. 

Vol-au-Vent of Salmon Quenelles 

Prepare a salmon forcemeat with 
one cup of salmon pulp, unbeaten 
white of egg, one cup of unbeaten, 
but thick, fresh cream and half a 



portions of butter and flour, but scant 
the liquid. Use fish stock and cream as 
the liquid. Cut the vol-au-vent from 
puff or flaky pastry, making it about the 
size of three or four patties. Half a 
pound, each, of flour and butter will be 
needed to make the paste. Bake about 
forty minutes. When ready to serve 
reheat the pastry and fill with the quen- 
elles in the hot sauce. 

Eggs, with Cheese Sauce and 
Asparagus 

Cover four eggs with boiling water 
and let stand, covered, twenty-five min- 
utes without allowing the water to boil. 
Drain off the hot water and let the eggs 
stand in cold water to become chilled. 




ASPARAGUS, WITH EGGS AND CHEESE SAUCE 



teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika. 
Butter teaspoons thoroughly, fill with 
the forcemeat and let poach in a sauce- 



then cut in quarters lengthwise. Have 
ready -eight rounds of hot, buttered toast; 
set two pieces of tgg on each piece of 



pan of hot fish stock, water or milk un- toast and dispose them in a circle or oval 



28 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



on a hot plate. Set a bunch of hot, 
boiled asparagus tips in the centre of 
the dish and pour part of a cup of hot 
cheese sauce over the eggs. Serve the 
rest of the cup of sauce separately. 

Cheese Sauce for Eggs and 
Asparagus 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; in 
it cook two tablespoonfuls of flour and 
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and pepper, then .add one cup of milk 
and stir until boiling. Finish with half 
a cup or more of grated cheese. When 
the cheese is melted the sauce is ready. 



the ingredients into a bowl, using at first 
two cups of white flour, then mix with 
a knife, adding such extra flour as is 
needed. When light shape into a dou- 
ble loaf and w^hen again light bake one 
hour. 

Date Bread, Cream Cheese-and- 
Lettuce Sandwiches 

Cut the bread in thin slices and shape 
as desired ; spread one bit of bread with 
butter, another bit with cream cheese, 
set a heart leaf of lettuce between and 
press together. Chopped nuts may be 
stirred into the cheese. 




DATE BREAD 



Date Bread 

The ingredients for one loaf are : one 
cup of scalded-and-cooled milk, half a 
cake of compressed yeast (at night) 
stirred through one-fourth a cup of 
scalded-and-cooled milk, half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, one-fourth a cup of molasses 
or sugar, one cup of cleaned dates, 
chopped rather coarse, two cups of en- 
tire wheat flour, and white flour to make 
a dough that may be kneaded. Put all 



Alold of Vegetable ]Macedoine, 
with Spinach 

Ingredients : one cup of liquid aspic 
jelly, two hard-cooked eggs, two cups of 
spinach puree, half a cup of Bechamel 
sauce, one tablespoonful of granulated 
gelatine, one-fourth a cup of broth, half 
a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful 
of paprika, one teaspoonful of lemon 
juice, half a cup of macedoine of vege- 
tables. Let part of the aspic chill in the 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



29 



bottom of a mold, (less than one-fourth 
an inch in thickness) ; on this set the eggs 
cut in such shape as desired. Figures 
cut from truffles and cooked carrots or 



use to cover inverted oval and diamond- 
shaped brownie tins. Prick the paste all 
over with a steel fork, that it may puff 
evenly in baking. Set the tins on a 




M01.D OF VEGETABLE MACEDOIXE, WITH SPINACH 



cooked asparagus points may also be 
used to decorate the mold. Soften the 
gelatine in the broth and dissolve in the 
sauce (made hot if it be cold) ; add the 
other ingredients and use to fill the mold. 
When cold serve with French dressing, 
either with or without lettuce. 

Tartlets, with Peas and Slices 
of Egg 

For the paste use remnants of puff or 
plain paste. When using the latter paste, 
roll it into a rectangular strip ; press bits 
of soft butter on one-half of it; turn 
the other half of the paste over the but- 



baking sheet into a hot oven. W^hen 
baked brush the edges of each tartlet 
(removed from the tin) with white of 
Qgg, then dip the edge in fine-chopped 
parsley. Fill with hot, cooked green 
peas, seasoned with salt, black pepper 
and butter. Set a slice of cooked egg 
above the peas in each tartlet and above 
the slice of egg set a figure stamped from 
a slice of truffle or one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of chopped truffle trimmings. 
Serve after or with fish or chicken or 
other meat. 

Fritor of Chicken 




TARTLETS, W^ITH STRING BEANS AND SLICES OF EGG 



ter; on half of this surface, press bits 
of butter and fold as before. Turn the 
paste to roll in the opposite direction 
from first rolling, pat and roll into a 
sheet rather less than one-fourth an inch 
thick, press bits of butter on one-half, 
fold and continue as before. Then roll 
into a sheet one-fourth an inch thick and 



Separate a cold, poached or boiled fowl 
at the joints, into pieces for serving, dis- 
carding skin and large bones. Make a 
French dressing with six tablespoonfuls 
of oil, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 
half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
pepper, a teaspoonful of onion juice and 
one tablespoonful of fine-chopped pars- 



30 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL AIAGAZINE 



ley. Turn the pieces of chicken in the 
dressing until it is absorbed. Let stand 
half an hour or longer to become sea- 




SANDWICHES, WITH BASKETRY PLATES 

soned with the dressing, then dip the 
pieces of chicken in fritter batter such 
as is used for timbale cases and let cook 
in deep fat until nicely colored. Serve 
with tomato sauce. Fillets of cooked 
chicken breast or tender slices of cold, 
roast veal may be cooked in the same 
manner. Tender corned beef, freed of 
fat, is also good cooked in this way. 



a package of gelatine, one-fourth a cup 
of cold water, one cup of cream, beaten 
firm, and one or two tablespoonfuls of 
blanched pistachio nuts, chopped fine. 
About half a cup of cooked asparagus 
tips (nearly half an inch in length) may 
also be used. The asparagus puree 
should be quite consistent. Soften the 
gelatine in the cold water and dissolve 
by setting the dish in boiHng water; add 
to the puree with the seasonings, stir 
over ice-water until beginning to set, 
then fold in the cream, and the asparagus 
tips if at hand. Have ready paper or 
china cases with paper bands pinned 
around them to increase the height. Fill 
the cases to the top of the bands with 
the mixture, making it perfectly smooth 
on top. Set aside to become thoroughly 
chilled. \\'hen ready to serve remove 
the paper bands (the mixture will thus 
stand above the case simulating a souffle) 
and sprinkle the top with the chopped 
nuts. A teaspoonful of mayonnaise 
dressing may be set above the souffle in 
each case or the dressing may be omitted. 
Spinach, peas or string beans may be 
used in place of the asparagus. With 
string beans add a teaspoonful of onion 
juice. 




INDIVIDUAL ASPARAGUS SOUFFLES 



Individual Asparagus Souffles 
(Cold) 

The ingredients are : one cup of as- 
paragus puree, half a teaspoonful of salt. 



Mexican Tomato Salad 

Rub a salad bowl with a clove of gar- 
lic in halves. Line the bowl with the 
heart leaves of a crisp head of lettuce, 



half a teaspoonful of pepper, one-fourth carefully washed and dried. Peel and 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



31 



slice four ripe tomatoes and dispose 
these above the lettuce. Remove the 
seeds and stem from a green pepper, 
chop fine and sprinkle over the slices 
of tomato. Remove the stones from a 
dozen olives and cut the flesh in thin 
slices ; sprinkle these over the tomatoes. 
Mix half a teaspoonful of salt with two 
tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, then 
gradually beat in five tablespoonfuls of 
olive oil and turn over the salad. Serve 
at once. If green peppers are not avail- 
able, remove the seeds from two chilli 
peppers (Crosse and Blackwell put up 
such peppers at twxnty-five cents a bot- 
tle and the peppers will keep until used), 
chop them very fine and mix them 
through the dressing before pouring it 
over the vegetables. 



down and use in filling muffin pans to 
rather more than half their height ; when 
the batter fills the pans, bake in a hot 
oven about twenty minutes. Brush over 
the top of the rolls with a teaspoonful 
of cornstarch, smoothed in cold water 
and heated to boiling in a half cup of 
boiling water, return to the oven to dry 
off. If there be time, the rolls w411 be 
improved, if the batter be cut down and 
allowed to rise once or twice before it 
is put into the pans. 

Strawberries in Swedish Timbale 
Cases 

Dip the edge of the cases in white of 
Qgg, beaten slightly and strained, and 
then in fine-chopped pistachio nuts. Sift 
a rounding teaspoonful of powdered su- 





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STRAWBERRIES IN SWEDISH TIMBALE CASES 



Souffle Rolls for Luncheon 

The ingredients are: one cup of 
scalded-and-cooled milk, two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter, half a cake of compressed 
yeast mixed with one-fourth a cup of 
scalded-and-cooled milk, one ^gg beaten 
light, half a teaspoonful of salt, a level 
tablespoonful of sugar, one cup and 
seven-eighths (nearly two cups) of sifted 
flour. Melt the butter in the milk; add 
the sugar and salt and when lukewarm 
the yeast, mixed as above, the ^gg and 
flour. Beat about ten minutes. The 
mixture should be rather thicker than a 
drop batter, but not as stiff as a dough. 
Cover and set aside to become light. Cut 



gar on a small plate; with a spoon push 
the sugar from the centre of the plate 
and in the centre set one of the prepared 
cases. Fill the case with choice, unhulled 
strawberries. If necessary wash the 
berries and dry them with a soft cloth. 
If they are picked fresh from the garden 
and have ripened on straw, simply brush 
with a soft dry cloth. These are to be 
taken up in the fingers, dipped in the 
sugar and eaten from the hand. The 
case is not intended to be eaten. 

Strawberries in Swedish Timbale 
Cases No. 2 

Prepare the cases as above; fill them 
with hulled strawberries, cut in halves 



2>2 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



and mixed with sugar to taste. Set a 
spoonful of whipped cream above the 
berries in each case, and finish with a 
sprinlding of chopped pistachio nuts. 




LACE COVER f<OR CAKE OX BUFFET 

This is intended for a dessert dish and 
the case is to be eaten with the berries. 
A fork is the proper article for eating 
this dessert. 

Swedish Timbale Cases 

Beat the yolks of two eggs ; add half 
a cup of milk and beat in a scant three- 
fourths a cup of sifted pastry flour, 
sifted again with one-fourth a teaspoon- 
ful of salt. One whole tgg may replace 



iron in the fat as soon as fat is melted 
and let the two heat together. Drain 
the iron and dip it into the batter to a 
little more than half its height, dip the 
iron at once into the fat covering the 
whole form ; this prevents the batter 
from spreading away from the iron form 
at the top. Avoid dipping the iron tvrice 
into the batter (for one case) as it 
makes the case too thick. The cases are 
done when crisp and delicately colored. 

Pop Overs, with Sugared Straw- 
berries 

The ingredients for one dozen large 
pop overs are: two eggs, two cups of 
milk, half a tea spoonful of salt and two 
cups of sifted flour. For filling two 
baskets of berries and one cup or more 
of sugar will be required. Beat the eggs 
until light; add the milk, then continue 
beating with the tgg beater and grad- 
ually add the flour and salt. Put half a 
teaspoonful of butter into each cup or 
section of a hot muffin pan, pour in the 
batter and bake three-quarters to a full 
hour. ^leanwhile hull, wash and drain 
the berries, cut each in halves length- 
wise, and mix with sugar. When the 




WHITE FRUIT CAKE 



the two yolks, but the yolks are prefer- 
able. The cases when finished should be 
very thin. If thick and soft add more 
milk. To fry the cases, have fat deep 
enough to cover the iron form. Let the 



pop overs are baked open them on one 
side and fill with the prepared berries. 
Serve with a pitcher of cream. The 
inside of the pop overs may be spread 
with butter before being filled with the 



iron heat with the fat; that is. put the berries. 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



33 



Soft Gingerbread (S. J. E.) 

The ingredients are: one cup of but- 
ter, one cup of granulated sugar, one cup 
of molasses, half a cup of butter-milk 
or thick, sour milk, four eggs (whites and 
yolks, beaten separately), three cups and 
one-third of pastry flour, one tablespoon- 
ful of ground ginger, one level teaspoon- 
ful of soda. Mix in the same manner 
as a cake. Bake in a large shallow pan 
or in two bread pans. 

White Fruit Cake 

Ingredients: Six ounces (three-fourths 
of a cup) of butter, eight ounces (one 
cup) of sugar, eight ounces (two cups) 
of flour, one slightly rounding teaspoon- 
ful of baking powder, six whites of 
eggs, one pound of blanched almonds, 
sliced thin, half a pound of light-colored 
sultana raisins, half a pound of crystal- 
ized pineapple, cut in bits, half a pound 
of citron, sliced thin, and half a cup of 
grated cocoanut. Mix in the order given. 
Bake in a loaf about an hour and a quar- 
ter or in two brick-loaf bread pans about 
forty-five minutes. Cover with almond 
paste mixed with tgg yolks and powdered 
sugar and when ready to use with con- 
fectioner's or boiled frosting. From 
four to six ounces of paste, two to three 
yolks of eggs and confectioner's sugar 
to knead the two into a pliable paste that 
may be smoothed out with a rolling pin 
are required for the first covering. 

Stuffed Breast of Veal, Poeled 

Have tlie bones removed from a breast 
of veal. A piece of veal weighing about 
four pounds is enough for an ordinary- 
sized family. Slit the veal in the thix:k- 
est part to make a pocket. A plain bread 
stuffing or one made of sausage meat 
may be used. Spread the stuffing in the 
pocket evenly, roll and sew up the meat, 
but remove the thread before sending the 
dish to the table. SHce an onion and 
part of a carrot into an earthen dish; 
put in two branches of parsley and some 
bits of salt pork, lay in the meat, sprinkle 



over it some more onion, carrot and 
pork, cover and let cook very gently 
for three hours, basting often with hot 
fat. The heat of the oven should be 
uniform throughout the whole time, but 
very moderate. When cooked remove 
the cover and baste the meat with the 
liquid in the dish or with hot fat every 
five minutes until well glazed. Remove 
the veal to a serving dish and strain off 
the liquid, pressing out all that is pos- 
sible from the vegetables. Use this with 
other liquid — tomato puree is good — in 
making a sauce to serve with the meat. 
Remove all fat from the sauce. Skew- 
ers put in with the vegetables will keep 
the meat from frying in the fat. Tape 
tied around the meat — in place of sew- 
ing — will hold it in shape. Slow cook- 
ing is essential to success. 

Bread Stuffing 

Mix two cups of fine, soft bread 
crumbs, a cup of fine-chopped fat, salt 
pork or beef suet or three-fourths a cup 
of melted butter or mild-cured bacon 
fat, half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
pepper, one tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley, the grated rind of half a lemon, 
one teaspoonful of powdered sweet herbs 
and a grating of nutmeg. 

Sausage Stuffing 

For this stuffing one pound of sausage 
or one pound of fresh pork, part lean 
and part fat, chopped very fine, may be 
used; the latter will need more season- 
ing than the former, which is often over 
seasoned. A few chopped mushrooms 
(stems and peelings, fresh or dried, 
answer for this purpose) are an im- 
provement; add, also, a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of 
scraped onion pulp or a tablespoonful of 
chopped chives, one egg well beaten and 
salt and pepper as needed. 



Note : The basketry plates for sandwiches and 
the lace cover for cake are shown by the court- 
esy of the Women's , Educational and Industri- 
al Union 



Menus for a Week in June 

"A generous supply of vegetables and fruits are of the greatest importance for the 
normal development of the body and of all its functions." — Van Noorden. 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Salt Codfish Balls, Sauce Tartare 

Baking Powder Biscuit , Strawberries 

Dinner 

Breast of Veal, Braised en Casserole 

Spinach New Potatoes 

Strawberry Ice Cream 

Sponge Cake 
Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Date Bread and Cream Cheese 

Sandwiches 

Pineapple Marmalade 

Chocolate ficlairs Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal Stewed Prunes 

Hashed Veal on Toast 

Graham Muffins Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Macaroni with Tomatoes and Cheese 

Lettuce, French Dressing 

Rhubarb Baked with Sultana Raisins 

Tea 

Dinner 

Tomato-and-Veal Soup, Whipped Cream 

(Bones from breast, etc.) 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin 

Scalloped Potatoes Spinach 
Strawberries , Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Broiled Bacon Fried Eggs 

Fried Bananas 

Potatoes Hashed in Milk 

Dry Toast Cocoa Coffee 

Luncheon 

Asparagus on Toast 

Baked Indian Pudding, 

Vanilla Ice Cream 

Dinner 

Ham Souffle Creamed Potatoes 

Lettuce, Green Mustard, French Dressing 

Cookies Oatmeal Macaroons 

Strawberries 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Eggs Cooked in Shell Dry Toast 

Kornlet Griddle Cakes 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Deviled Crabs 
Lettuce-and-Tomato Jelly Salad 

Bread and Butter 

Strawberries Pineapple Juice 

Dinner 

Baked Fresh Mackerel 

Mashed Potatoes Xew String Beans 

Lettuce, Chopped Chives, Fr. Dressing 

Frozen Apricots Almond Macaroons 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Cream Toast Eggs Cooked in Shell 

Stewed Peaches (dried) 

Doughnuts Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cream of Asparagus Soup 

Parker House Rolls 

Prune Whip, Boiled Custard 

Tea 

Dinner 

Broiled Beefsteak 

French Fried Potatoes 

Asparagus on Toast 

Pop Overs with Sugared Strawberries 

Tea 



Breakfast 



Asparagus Omelet 

Spider Corn Cake 

Dry Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Lima Beans Stewed 

Strawberry Short Cake 

Tea 

Dinner 

Bluefish Stuffed and Baked, Hollandaise 

Sauce 

Cucumber-and-Chive Salad 

Scaloped Potatoes 

Sliced Pineapple 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast Luncheon Dinner 

Fish Cakes, Sauted Boiled Bermuda Onions, Breast of Veal Stuffed and 

(Mashed Potato and bits of Creamed Braised en Casserole 

Bluefish) Baking Powder Biscuit, Toasted Mashed Potatoes Spinach 

Radishes Gherkins Baked Indian Pudding, Strawberries Cream Cheese 

Hot Baking Powder Biscuit Vanilla Ice Cream Toasted Crackers 

Dry Toast Coffee Tea Half Cups of Coffee 

34 



Economic Menus for a Week in July 

"The presence' of a large amount of cellulose in food enables us often to satisfy the 
appetite without injury from overeating." — W. S. Saddler, M.D. 



Breakfast 


Breakfast 




Broiled Liver and Bacon 


Fish-and-Potato Hash 




Creamed Potatoes 


Corn Meal Muffins 




Glazed Currant Buns 


Doughnuts 




Berries 


Coffee Cocoa 




Coffee Cocoa 


Dinner 


Dinner 

Rolled Chops en Casserole 

Beet Greens 

Raspberry Ice Cream 

Sponge Jelly Roll 


Beet Greens 
Broiled Bacon Baked Potatoes 




Raspberry Shortcake 
Half Cups of Coffee 




Half Cups of Coffee 


Supper 


< 


Supper 


Cold Beet Greens, French Dressing 




Cold Beet Greens 


Scrambled Eggs 




Bread and Butter 


Bread and Butter 




Berries Tea 


Cookies Tea 


\ 



Breakfast 

Salt Codfish, Creamed 

Small New Potatoes, Baked 

Graham Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Hamburg Steak 

New Potatoes Green Peas 

Lettuce-and-Pepper Grass 

Cream of Rice Pudding 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Lamb-and-Potato Hash, Horseradish 

Stewed Apricots (dried) 

Whole Wheat Bread and Butter 

Iced Tea 



Breakfast 

Poached Eggs on Toast 

Radishes Wild Raspberries 

Yeast Rolls (reheated) 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boiled Breast of Lamb, Caper Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes 

Boiled Turnips, New Beets, Buttered 

Hot Gingerbread Cream Cheese 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Kornlet Chowder 

Pickled Beets 
Bread and Butter 
Gingerbread Tea 



a 



Breakfast 

Hot Cereal, Sliced Bananas, Thin Cream 

French Omelet with Bacon 

Whole Wheat Biscuit 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fillets of Fish, Bread Dressing, Baked 

Drawn Butter Sauce 

Old Potatoes, Mashed 

Lettuce-and-Mustard Leaves, 

French Dressing 

Bread Pudding with Meringue 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Blueberries Bread Milk 

Cookies 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Smoked Halibut, Creamed 

White Hashed Potatoes Cold Bread 

Blueberry Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boiled Salmon Potatoes 

Green Peas 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Blueberry Pie 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Hot Cheese Sandwiches 

Rhubarb Marmalade 

Buttermilk 



Breakfast 

Dried Beef, Frizzled 

Potatoes Hashed in Milk 

Plain Griddle Cakes 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Breast of Veal, Boned, Stuffed 

Braised en Casserole 

Green Peas or String Beans 

Lettuce with Chives 

Gooseberry Pie 
Half Cups of Coffee 

35 



Supper 

Boston Baked Beans 

Graham Bread 

Tomato Catsup 

Jelly Roll (New Currant Jelly) 

Tea 



Menus for Weddings and School Spreads in June 



Wedding Breakfast 

( Guests seated) 

I 

Unhulled Strawberries in Swedish Timbale 

Cases 

Lobster Newburg in Cassolettes 

(china dishes) 

Veal Quenelles Egged, Crumbed and Fried 

Peas 

Parker House Rolls 

Lettuce-and-Asparagus Salad 

Vanilla Ice Cream with Crushed 

Strawberries 

II 

Salpicon of Fruit in Glass Cups 

(Pineapple, white cherries, strawberries) 

Lobster Cutlets, Sauce Tartare 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Chickens en Casserole 

Asparagus, Maltese Sauce 

Ice Cream Croquettes 

(Coated with macaroon crumbs) 



Wedding Reception 
I 

Lobster Salad 

Chicken, Sweetbread.-and-Cucumber (fresh) 

Salad 

Salad Rolls (buttered) 

Lettuce Sandwiches 

Pineapple Sherbet 

Strawberry Bombe Glace 

Angel Cake Sponge Cake Macaroons 

Iced Tea with Pineapple Juice 

II 

Jellied Chicken Broth in Cups 

Cold Mousse of Chicken (Sliced) Lettuce^ 

French Dressing 

Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Strawberry Ice Cream 

White Fruit Cake Sunshine Cake 

Lemonade with Grape Juice 

in Punch Bowl 

III 

Pineapple Sherbet 

Pistachio Ice Cream, Strawberry Sauce 

Lady Fingers Meringues 

Tiny Cream Cakes Macaroons 

Fruit Punch 



School Spread 

I 

Lemon Sherbet above Macedoine of Fruit 

in Glass Cups 

Assorted Cake 

Fruit Punch 

II 

Pineapple Sherbet 

Banana Ice Cream 

Macaroon Drops 

Sponge Jelly Roll Angel Cakelets 

Fruit Punch 

III 

Canned Apricot Sherbet 

Assorted Cake 

Fruit Punch 

Peppermints Candied Orange Peel 

IV 
Vanilla Ice Cream, Crushed Strawberries 

Assorted Cake 
Divinity Candy Orange Turkish Paste 



36 



Menu Served to Col. Roosevelt and Party 

By Class in Domestic Science, University of Idaho 

{yd guests seated at table) 

Fruit Cocktail 

(Bananas, oranges, grapefruit and fresh strawberries) 

Fried Spring Chicken Stuffed Potatoes 

Molded Cranberries Parkerhouse Rolls 

Coffee 

Waffles, Maple Syrup Doughnuts 



Menu of Old Time New England Supper 

200 gueets 

Served to Members and Friends of The New England Woman's Press Association 

Cold Boiled Ham Cold Boiled Corned Beef 

Potato Salad Cabbage Salad 

Hot Baked Beans 

Boston Brown Bread White Bread Yeast Rolls 

Pumpkin Pie Apple Pie 

Hot Baked Indian Pudding 

Whipped Cream 

Doughnuts 

Cake 

Crackers Cheese 

Coffee Buttermilk 



Luncheon for One Hundred 

The luncheon at which the following menu was served was prepared 
by the ladies of a church society as a means of raising money to carry on 
the work of the society. Six tables were laid. Each table was in the care 
of two young housekeepers, who, when all was ready, acted as waitresses 
for their respective tables. These young women sold the tickets and invited 
guests to preside over the chafing dishes at the ends of each table. When 
the luncheon was announced the creamed corned beef was in the chafing 
dishes ready for serving. The salad was upon the tables on individual plates. 
The potatoes, peas, rolls, biscuits and coffee were brought in hot from the 
kitchen. The items used with cost was as follows : 

Creamed Corned Beef: .06; 9 eggs, .18; 6 oz. butter, .12; 

Beef, 221/^ lbs $2.93 IV^ qts. milk, .18 82 

Sauce : Milk, 10 qts 70 Twenty Dozen Baking Powder Biscuits : 

Butter and flour 30 6 qts. flour, .24 ; % lb. baking powder, 

1 bunch celery, 4 onions 22 .16; 10 oz. butter, .20; 3% qts. 

Mashed Potatoe, 110 p. 2 pks., .40 ; but- milk, .25 ^S 

ter, .15; milk 55 3 lbs. coffee, $1.00; 3 qts. milk, .21; 3 

Peas, 6 cans 78 jars cream, .45 1.66 

Salad : 1 doz. lettuce 1.10 5 lbs. sugar 28 

6 lbs. tomatoes 60 Apricot Sherbet : 

3 qts. dressing: V^, doz. eggs, .37; % 6 cans apricots, $1.68; 6 qts. water; 6 

lb. butter, .24; P/^ pts. cream, .45 2.00 pts. sugar, .33; ice and salt, con- 

8 doz. eggs 2.00 tributed 2.01 

Nine Dozen Rye Gems: 10 cakes, contributed 

2 qts. flour, .08; 2 qts. rye, .08; Va. lb. . 

baking powder, .12 ; 2 cups sugar. Total $15.86 

37 



Ifflf/lT^Q^pfFn^^^ 



Concerning Our Seasonable Recipes 

Bv Janet M. Hill 



S 



Pertaining to Soups 

OUPS are not relished as well 
in hot as in cold weather, hence 
no recipes for soup appear 
among the seasonable recipes for this 
month. But when materials for broth 
or stock are at hand, stock should cer- 
tainly be made, for it is invaluable in 
making sauces in which macaroni, rice 
■or bits of meat may be reheated. By 
:scalding every other day, each day in 
extremely hot weather, the stock may be 
kept until a cool day comes, then the 
imore fitting weather and the absence of 
the dish for several meals will insure its 
welcome. 

In the menus for weddings jellied 
■chicken broth is given. If this broth be 
carefully made, and when cooled be care- 
fully taken from the coagulated juices in 
the bottom of the dish in which it has 
been cooled, it will not need to be clari- 
fied. Chicken, cooked in water just to 
cover the pieces, should give a jelly that 
needs no reinforcement with gelatine. 
The jelly is best when it is not quite 
solid; it should not be firm enough to 
hold its shape when unmolded. Jellied 
broths, served alone, are sent to the table 
in cups. 

Poeling 

The dish of meat to which special at- 
tention is called in this issue of the 
magazine is Boned Breast of Veal, 
Stuffed and Cooked in a Casserole. This 



dish is not the usual, choice stew that we 
are wont to think of in connection with 
a casserole, but an entirely different ar- 
ticle. No liquid, as water or broth, is 
used in the style of cooking under con- 
sideration, but the meat is treated much 
like a roast, being uncovered and basted 
with hot fat quite frequently. Lest the 
meat fry in the fat with which it is 
basted it should be lifted a little from 
the bottom of the dish ; three or four 
skewers laid in the bottom of the dish 
will serve the purpose. Usually a bed 
of sliced vegetables receives the article 
to be cooked ; this article may be poultry 
or birds nicely trussed, or boned and 
rolled meats. Sliced vegetables are 
sprinkled above the article, hot fat is 
poured over, the cover is set in place 
and the dish is set in a moderate oven — 
to remain until the article is tender. The 
cover should be Hfted and the article 
basted with hot fat three or four times 
each hour. If the meat when tender be 
not sufficiently browned, remove the 
cover that the proper shade of color be 
acquired, then remove the article from 
the casserole, cover and keep hot until 
ready to serve. To the vegetables and 
fat in the casserole add about a cup of 
brown, veal stock (part madeira is often 
used) and let simmer ten minutes, to 
absorb the flavor of the vegetables ; re- 
move the fat, strain off the liquid and 
use as a sauce for the meat. 

This is not a new method of cooking. 
but a much simplified process of an old- 



38 



CONCERNING OUR SEASONABLE RECIPES 



39 



time style of cookery. It is in reality a 
combination of roasting, braising and 
stewing, and to it Escoffier gives the 
name poeling. For the best results there 
must be no waste space in the dish; the 
earthen dish must be well filled by the 
article to be cooked. For roasting only 
choice cuts of tender meat or young 
poultry can be used, when poeling is 
employed, either choice cuts or young 
poultry, or cheap cuts and fowl will give 
equally good results. 

Preparations with Forcemeat 

Two recipes for quenelles are given 
in this number ; these are made of force- 
meat (English) or farce (French). 
Forcemeat is a mixture of scraped-and- 
pounded meat, panada (bread cooked in 
broth or milk to a smooth paste), fat 
and eggs, pressed through a sieve, 
shaped or molded and cooked delicately. 

There are many grades of forcemeat; 
those given in the recipes this month are 
among the most delicate of these prep- 
arations. The work involved in re- 
ducing the meat to a pulp and forcing 
it through a sieve relegates these dishes 
to the class designed for occasional 
rather than frequent use. Still the deli- 
cate texture of the finished product is 
such a satisfactory ending to the effort 
put forth that one is tempted " to make 
them whenever a really choice dish is 
desired. The "improved economy col- 
ander," shown in our advertising pages, 
simplifies the work of sifting and is thus 
a welcome addition to kitchen utensils. 

Forcemeat may be made of any var- 
iety of meat, fowl or game, of shell 
fish, of halibut or salmon. It may be 
shaped in large or small molds, in large 
or small spoons, or with pastry bag and 
tube upon a buttered paper. It may be 
poached in the oven in the same man- 
ner as a custard, or in a dish of water 
on the top of the stove. Quenelles are 
shaped in small molds the size of a 
tablespoon or in table, tea or after din- 
ner coffee spoons. Small quenelles are 
often served as a garnish for soup. 



Fruit and Vegetables in the 
Dietary 

It is well known that for good nutri- 
tion the food eaten must contain a cer- 
tain amount of mineral matter. Iron 
is one of the principal compounds in- 
cluded under the foregoing term. We 
often think that, if we provide protein 
and carbohydrate in sufficiency, the 
other compounds will be well repre- 
sented, but this is far from the truth. 
Nor can iron or other mineral com- 
pounds, isolated for the purpose and 
given as medicine, take the place of iron 
as it occurs in combination with other 
compounds in food substances. Lean 
meat, eggs and milk contain iron com- 
pounds in generous proportion and 
these are essentials in a well balanced 
dietary, but we must not depend on these, 
alone for the iron that is so necessary 
to perfect nutrition. 

Prof. Sherman, in "Chemistry of 
Food and Nutrition," says: "In an ex- 
perimental dietary study made in New 
York City it was found that a free use 
of vegetables, whole wheat bread and 
the cheaper sorts of fruit, with milk but 
without meat, resulted in a gain of 30 
per cent in the iron content of the diet, 
while the protein, fuel value, and cost 
remained practically the same as in the 
ordinary mixed diet obtained under the 
same rnarket conditions." 

Van Noorden, who is a strong advo- 
cate of a liberal use of meat in the die- 
tary of adults, says in regard to the feed- 
ing of children: "The necessity of a 
generous supply of vegetables and fruits 
must be particularly emphasized. They 
are of the greatest importance for the 
normal development of the body and of 
all its functions. As far as children are 
concerned, we believe we could do bet- 
ter by following the dietary of the most^ 
rigid vegetarians than by feeding the 
children as though they were carnivora, 
according to the bad custom which is 
still quite prevalent .... 

"If we limit the most important 



40 



THE BOSTON COO.KING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



sources of iron, — the vegetables and the 
fruits, — we cause a certain sluggishness 
of blood formation and an entire lack 
of reserve iron, such as is normally 
found in the liver, spleen, and bone 
marrow of healthy, well-nourished in- 
dividuals." 

Children of all ages relish fruit and 
eat it freely whenever it can be obtained, 
but the eating of vegetables is quite an- 
other matter. Outside of, perhaps, let- 
tuce, celery and, occasionally, tomatoes, 
few even of high school and college boys 
and girls eat vegetables. There is no 
inclination even to taste choice vegeta- 
bles like spinach, asparagus and green 
peas. 

It follows that children should be 



taught when young to enjoy the flavor 
of vegetables, for when older the very 
fact that a certain kind of food is whole- 
some seems to set the average youth into 
a chronic state of opposition not at all 
conducive to knowledge. The child who 
helps plant or shell peas is curious to 
know how they taste and will soon ac- 
quire a fondness for them. Such chil- 
dren, left to forage for themselves, as in 
boarding houses of schools and colleges, 
will not confine the food supply to meat 
and a little potato, three times a day, but 
will demand at least a fair proportion of 
fruit and vegetables, and the product 
will be forthcoming to supply the de- 
mand. The gain in health and hygienic 
living will be appreciable. 



In Vacation Time 



SUMMER SCHOOLS 

Vacation or summer schools are mani- 
festly increasing in number and growing 
in favor. We take the liberty here to 
invite the attention of readers to the 
notices of summer schools of cookery 
given elsewhere in this issue of the 
magazine. These schools afford young 
women an opportunity to combine pleas- 
ure with profit, either near the sea coast 
or in the mountains. In past years, the 
young women who have attended these 
schools of cookery and vacation outing 
combined, have invariably carried away 
with them far more in way of attainment 
than they had in any wise anticipated. 

In these days, theory alone avails little. 
Young people are expected to be quali- 
fied to do things. The man or woman 
who can deliver the goods is everywhere 
^in demand. These summer schools are 
one place where young women are taught 
how to do by actually doing the things 
themselves. With little experimenting 
they present at once facts, the results 
of long and practical experience. 



HIS MOTOR-BOAT 

He Cometh not with note of love, 
He Cometh not with bugle-call, 
Nor all in silk or velvet clad 
To ride beneath her castle wall. 

Put-put-put- 



Tutr 



His motor-boat it motors near: 

P ut-p lit- put- 



Tut t 



And Emmy trips it to the pier. 



He cometh with a patter song, 
He cometh with a put-tut call; 
In sneakers and in khaki clad 
To put-tut 'neath her cottage wall. 

Put-put-put- 



Tutr 



His motor-boat it motors near: 

Put-put-put- 



Tutr 



And Emmy trips it to the pier. 



There's fifty boats a-chasing up 
And chasing down with put-tut note, 
Yet Emmy knows without recall, 
The put-tut of her lover's boat. 

Put-put-put— 

Tutr 
His motor-boat it motors near : 

Put-put-put— 
Tut! 
And Emmy trips it to the pier. 

— ^3' Jennie E. T. Dowe, 

in Century Magazine.. 



Lessons in Elementary Cooking 

By Mary Chandler Jones 

Teacher of Cookery in the Public Schools of Brookline, Mass. 
LESSON XI 



Meat — (continued) 

IN this lesson our study brings us to 
the favorite ways of cooking meat, 
namely, roasting and broiling. The 
heat is conveyed directly by means of 
heat waves through the air or by con- 
vection through the iron, and a higher 
degree of temperature is obtained than 
is possible by means of boiling water. 
Of course, in this way, the surface juices 
are more effectually retained and there is 
less waste and better flavor. The brown- 
ing of the fat, also, adds much to the 
savoriness of either a roasted or broiled 
piece of meat. Tender meat must be 
used for either of these processes, so 
that they are by no means economical 
from the point of view of expenditure. 
It is a great mistake to feel, as many 
persons do, that meat must be in the 
form of a roast, to give the most nour- 
ishment. Meat broiled or roasted is, 
perhaps, more palatable, and therefore, 
in some cases, more digestible; but it 
contains no more food value than the 
more humble stew. In roasting and 
broiling the heat must be high at first, 
to harden the surface juices immediately, 
then it should be lowered somewhat, in 
order that the meat may not be tough- 
ened by cooking throughout at too high 
a temperature. Meat is, however, a poor 
conductor of heat, and care must be 
taken that time is given to allow the 
heat to penetrate to the centre. (Com- 
pare these general directions with those 
given for cooking meat in water, given 
in our last lesson). 

Broiled meat is, perhaps, better as the 
first example of this quick cooking, since 
it can be watched during the process of 
cooking and the effect of the heat ob- 
served. Broiling may be divided into 
two classes — broiling proper, in a wire 
broiler, and "pan"-broiling. In either 



case be sure of a clear, strong fire before 
beginning. 

Broiled Steak 

Prepare the steak by the general rule 
and remove any superfluous fat. Grease 
the wires of a wire-broiler with a little 
of this fat. Lay the meat on the broiler 
and put it over the fire. Turn, in about 
ten seconds. Cook on the other side for 
about ten seconds and turn again. (Both 
sides should be cooked so that the juices 
will not escape, though drops of fat may 
fall from the fat about the edge of the 
meat.) The meat may be cooked for a 
longer or shorter time, according to the 
degree of rareness desired and, also, to 
the thickness of the sHce. Five to eight 
minutes is usually enough and during 
this cooking, turn, about every two min- 
utes. Place on a hot platter and sprinkle 
with salt and a little pepper and spread 
with a little butter, if liked. 

Pan-Broiled Chops 

Prepare the chops by the general rule 
and remove superfluous fat and any pink 
skin. Have a French frying pan abso- 
lutely smooth and very hot. (Notice the 
bluish look which comes to the metal as 
it heats). Lay in it the chops and let 
them cook thirty seconds, then turn and 
cook equally on the other side. Be care- 
ful not to prick them in the process of 
turning. Cook for about six or eight 
minutes, turning them during that time 
about every two minutes. Hold them on 
the edge to cook the fat, if necessary. 
Place on a hot platter and sprinkle with 
salt and pepper. Serve very hot. 

Let the pupils observe the different 
appearance of the meat after it has been 
exposed to the extreme heat of the fire 
or of the heated pan. The process may 
be reversed and either chops or steak be 
broiled or pan-broiled, according to con- 
41 



42 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



venience. If the juices start, what is in- 
dicated as to the heat? Why is there no 
need to add butter in serving the chops? 

There is much prejudice against the 
use of lamb and mutton fats, which is a 
pity, as they are wholesome fats and 
very delicious when served really hot and 
with sufficient salt. If people would use 
the fat with the meat, less butter would 
be needed in the daily food and so money 
might be saved. In addition, the fat ob- 
tained would, in many cases, be more 
wholesome, as well as less expensive. 

In roasting meat we must have a hot 
oven at first, for the same reason that 
we need a clear, strong fire for broiling. 
After the surface has been "seared" the 
heat may be somewhat reduced. 

To Roast Meat 

Prepare the meat by the general rule 
and weigh it. Rub the meat with salt 
and dredge with flour, then place it on a 
rack in a dripping pan. Let it cook 
fifteen minutes for every pound and ten 
or fifteen minutes extra, to allow for 
the heat to penetrate to the centre. Cook 
it at first with the skin side down. When 
the meat is about half cooked, turn it 
over to brown the fat. Baste about 
every ten minutes during the cooking. 
Place on a hot platter and serve with a 
gravy made from a part of the fat and 
flour in the pan. 

What is the use of dredging with 
flour? What is the use of the salt? 
Compare the roast meat with the baked 
fish. Why is no pork added to the meat, 
as was done in the case of the fish? What 
do we mean by ''basting"? 



Gravy for Meat 

2 



of 



2 tablespoonfuls of i 2 tablespoonfuls 
browned fat from I flour 
the pan I 1 cup of boiling water 

Salt and pepper to taste 

Place the fat in a saucepan and add 
the flour. Stir over the heat until it is 
a smooth paste and as brown as you 
desire. Add the boiling water and sea- 
soning and proceed as in white sauce. 



This gravy may also be made in the 
dripping pan, using all the fat, but care 
must be taken that enough flour and 
water are added to take up all the fat, 
or the gravy will be greasy, unpalatable 
and unwholesome. It is better for a be- 
ginner to measure the fat and prepare 
the gravy in a saucepan so that she may 
see plainly what she is doing and may 
measure her ingredients. 

Our second object in meat cookery is 
to extract the juices. This is our aim in 
the preparation of soups and broths. Let 
the pupils recall the experiments of our 
last lesson and suggest means by which 
the juices may be drawn out of the 
meat. In soup-making we use the bone 
and tough portions of the meat, along 
with the muscular tissue. The muscle 
furnishes albumin, other proteids and 
flavorings, called ''extractives." The 
bone, skin, tendons and other inedible 
portions, furnish gelatine and other sub- 
stances which are of use as "proteid 
savers," though they may have no actual 
food value. Hence, for soup-making, 
we choose a cheap cut which is about 
half meat and half bone, and this we do 
not merely from motives of economy, 
but, even more, because the soup is bet- 
ter. 

Soup Stock 



3 pounds of shin of 
beef 

3 quarts of cold water 

4 a cup of chopped 
onion 



i a cup of diced tur- 
nip 

i a cup of diced car- 
rot 

A small bunch of 
sweet herbs 

Prepare the meat by the general rule. 
Cut it into small pieces and place it in 
the cold water, with the bones and mar- 
row. Let it stand an hour, then put the 
kettle on the stove and bring gradually 
to the boiling point. Boil very gently 
for four hours. Add the vegetables and 
season with salt and pepper. Let it boil 
one hour longer, then set away to cool. 
When needed for soup it will be found 
to be a stiff jelly, with a layer of fat 
upon the top. The fat may be removed 
and the soup melted and strained. If it 
be clarified, into a "clear soup," prac- 



NEW IDEAS ABOUT CHEESE 



43 



tically all the nourishment is removed, 
.and it becomes a mere stimulant, with 
no more food value than tea or coffee. 
''Clear" soup has its place, but it belongs 
to the more elaborate kinds of cookery 
.and is not suitable for the work of a 
l)eginner. 

When the soup-meat is removed from 
the soup, is the food-value of this meat 
so far extracted that it should be thrown 
away? Experiments have shown that 
this is not so, and that the soup-meat may 
he used, if in some way the flavor can 



be restored so that it may be palatable. 
The meat still contains many solid pro- 
teids, but the ''extractives" are removed. 

Soup-meat may be chopped, flavored 
with onion, other vegetables, seasonings 
and even a little beef extract and served 
as meat loaf, or with a crust of carefully 
prepared mashed potato. In either way 
it is a delicious and nourishing dish. 

In our next lesson we shall consider 
stews and preparations of dried beef, also 
some of the general values of the differ- 
ent cuts of meat. 



New Ideas About Cheese 

By Alice E. Whitaker 



TODAY'S truth may be to-mor-' 
row's error. This is true in 
habits of eating as well as in 
many other things. One generation is 
warned against many foods that the next 
finds most desirable. So much has been 
written about cheese that it has been 
considered a well understood subject, but 
in this age of careful investigation noth- 
ing can be accepted as settled until it has 
been thoroughly investigated in research 
laboratories or other places of accurate 
investigation. No popular supposition 
can be regarded as truth until it has 
been proven by scientific experimenta- 
tion. 

It is well known nowadays that un- 
adulterated milk is six-sevenths water, 
and that the one-seventh, which is the 
food material in milk, is cheap as com- 
pared with most other foods and is very 
wholesome. It contains the different 
food elements in a good proportion and 
in easily digestible form. But milk is 
such a food that it is popularly regarded 
as a beverage, rather than a food, except 
for infant feeding. The excessive mois- 
ture is frequently removed, to render the 
:substance less bulky and, when the fat is 
removed by itself with only about one- 
seventh of water in the product, we have 



butter. When all of the elements in the 
milk are allowed to remain and the water 
is evaporated to a considerable degree, 
condensed milk is the resultant : it usual- 
ly is from three-quarters to two-thirds 
water. When most of the natural food 
elements of milk are retained and the 
curd is coagulated, and the water drawn 
off as whey, the product is cheese. But 
there are so many differences in the de- 
tails of handling the cheese that 434 
varities are listed in official dairy pub- 
lications. These variations are due 
largely to the different methods of 
"ripening," or to the different forms of 
bacteria that are called in to assist in the 
process. These different kinds of cheese 
have a wide range of texture and vary 
in flavor from the mild, pleasantly acid 
cottage cheese to the rank Limburger. 

The most common cheese of commerce 
is the Cheddar, of which there are sev- 
eral varities, some of the distinctive dif- 
ferences being due, to a considerable 
extent, to the form in which they are put 
on the market. Most of the other kinds 
are somewhat roughly classified as soft 
cheeses, and they, for the most part, 
come under the classification of fancy 
cheese, although a few of the cheddar 
type are also properly termed fancy 



44 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



cheeses. Familiar types of the fancy 
soft cheeses are Brie and Camembert. 

These soft cheeses are almost exclu- 
sively used as a relish, and this is true 
of some of the cheddar type. But the 
common American cheddar is a food as 
well as a relish. It is a highly concen- 
trated food, containing roundly one-third 
casein, one-third fat and one-third water 
— as against six-sevenths water in the 
milk from which the cheese is made. 
Cheese contains twice as much nutrition 
as beef, mutton or fish and four times 
as much as chicken. It is a nutritious 
food, and having no waste it is very 
economical. In countries where meat is 
scarce and high cheese has an important 
place in the diet of the people. This 
is the case, whether the cheese is made 
from whole milk or skim milk. The 
protein element of' food, that is the ele- 
ment which is necessary for tissue build- 
ing, is supplied by cheese at much less 
cost than by meat, and this is especially 
true of skim milk cheese. 

In this country the food value of 
cheese has not been fully or. sufficiently 
appreciated. More than that a preju- 
dice has existed against it on account of 
its alleged or supposed indigestibility, 
particularly when not completely "ri- 
pened." One of the best dairy authori- 
ties in the country said not many years 
ago, that ''in the majority of cases indi- 
gestibility comes from eating uncured 
cheese. The people of England and con- 
tinental Europe eat largely of cheese, but 
it is of good age and well cured. Old 
cheese is considered to be an aid to di- 
gestion. The high livers of England 
finish their heavy dinners with a bit of 
rich old cheese and a cracker. New 
cheese is known to be very indigestible 
and sometimes suspends the peristaltic 
action of the bowels. All cheddar made 
cheese is hard, unpalatable and indiges- 
tible when young. The rennet must have 
time to predigest and break down the 
curd." This quotation aptly states what 
has been the prevailing belief for years. 
This popular opinion is now shown to 



have no basis in fact. The national dairy 
division has been studying the digesti- 
bility of cheese for several years and has 
recently issued a bulletin giving the re- 
sults of 184 experiments on 65 persons. 
These experiments were carried on with 
a diet of bread and bananas, because 
these foods have been carefully studied 
and are well understood. It has been 
hard to explain why, when the solids of 
milk are digestible and make a perfect 
food, the process of cheese making, by 
the addition of rennet and the develop- 
ment of lactic acid, should transform 
them into indigestible solids. It has also 
been hard to explain why green cheese 
should have any unusual tendency to 
cause constipation. But the experiments 
carried on by the Department of Agri- 
culture show that as a matter of fact 
there is "little or no difference in the 
comparative digestibility of cheese at dif- 
ferent stages of ripening. The perfectly 
green curd, evidently, and as far as nu- 
tritive value was concerned, was as good 
a food as the same cheese at any stage 
of ripening. The casein of cheese either 
fresh from the press or thoroughly 
ripened is very highly digestible. The 
cheese was eaten in comparatively large 
quantities, but it was well assimilated." 
Allusion is also made to the evident di- 
gestibility and food value of skim milk 
cheese and the economical value of this 
kind of food put on the market in a way 
to induce the laboring classes to buy it. 

These experiments omit one feature in 
the case and that is the proper mastica- 
tion of cheese. The digestive juices can 
not work well upon food that is not well 
broken up by chewing. This is the cause 
of the difficulty in digesting hot breads, 
especially those raised with yeast. Green 
or rubber-like new cheese may be more 
difficult to break into small particles in 
the mouth — or there may be more of a 
tendency to imperfectly masticate this 
kind of cheese — and hence it may be 
swallowed in lumps. This may be the 
cause of the general prejudice against 
such cheese. 



Strange Foods We May Eat 



By W. T. Walsh 



THERE is not a food in common 
use to-day that we could not dis- 
pense with. Indeed, we might 
eliminate about all the foods known in 
the diets of nations and still find our- 
selves in no wise suffering in health, but 
perhaps all the better for the substitutes 
we should be obliged to take in their 
places. We have been so accustomed 
to an almost absolute dependence upon 
certain ''staples" that it is well-nigh uni- 
versally held we could not so much as 
exist without them. This superstition 
seems to be held by every race, from 
Americans with their beef and wheat, to 
the Chinese with their fish and rice. 

Yet there are vast reserves of whole- 
some, nutritious foods that are unheard 
of, but which indicate that we need have 
no fear for many centuries, at least, to 
come that human life on this globe must 
come to a fierce struggle to possess a 
portion of an inadequate food supply. 

About twelve years ago Sir William 
Crookes gave us something of a jolt, 
when he predicted that by 1928, Mal- 
thus' law, first formulated in 1798, 
which, in substance, maintains that the 
tendency of population is to increase 
faster than the quantity of food, would 
be noticeably in evidence. Wheat, he 
said, could no longer be produced as 
rapidly as the demands of the multitudes 
required. 

In his prediction, he forgot, however, 
that Science up to the present, at least, 
has always taken care of man in this 
direction, and that never was scientific 
activity so actively, keenly alert as it is 
to-day. 

The seas of the globe teem with ani- 
mal life. Many of these creatures prey 
upon one another. There must be a 
beginning to this food supply, however, 
other than animal. It is found, of 
course, in the weeds of the ocean, — sea- 



weeds. This rich vegetable substance, 
tossed up in millions of tons after every 
storm, is absolutely inexhaustible in quan- 
tity, and largely contains the same ele- 
ments that are to be found in wheat, the 
staple, the staff, of life. For centuries, 
indeed, the orientals have made a food 
of this product of the sea. The Japan- 
ese and Chinese remove the seaweed 
from the rocks and sands, and dry them 
in the sun. At the proper time the sub- 
stance is shredded and sold as an article 
of food, boiling being one of the inter- 
mediate steps. Dulse is a variety of sea- 
weed used to some extent in certain 
parts of Ireland and Scotland as a food, 
but it is nowhere so tasty as the prepara- 
tion of the Japanese. Travelers in the 
Island Empire declare that this diet is 
digestible and satisfactory. 

On the southwestern coast of Norway 
a very profitable industry has been es- 
tablished of late years in the harvesting 
of seaweeds. In the autumn of the year 
the high tides drive toward the shores 
vast beds of the floating substance, which 
the Norwegians gather and burn. The 
incineration process is for the purpose 
of securing valuable chemicals, among 
them iodine, which find a ready sale in 
the English markets. The growth of 
seaweeds along these shores is stated to 
be little short of marvelous. The growth 
is so thick that "during the summer the 
ocean bed is covered with a dense, im- 
penetrable brush, which later loses its 
grasp upon the soil and drifts ashore." 
Of course this seaweed is not used as 
food, but the ease with which the plants 
are gathered shows how readily they 
could be gathered by man, for food. 

The sea even offers a substitute for 
beef. On the coast of Newfoundland 
are what are known as whale factories. 
Here the leviathans of the deep are cut 
up and prepared for the market. First, 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



the hide is removed, with its attachment 
of rich, creamy fat. Next, the flesh or 
"meat" of the whale is removed. The 
better ''cuts" are placed in cold storage, 
to be later turned into sausage, and the 
second best quality, into extract of beef. 
The flesh has first of all, however, to be 
steamed, to remove all traces of the oil, 
which naturally would be very disagree- 
able. Huns, Poles, and other foreigners, 
settled in the New World are coming to 
use this whale "meat," and it is even 
shipped to the West Indies. There is no 
particular reason why this flesh should 
not be eaten by the native born Amer- 
ican, just as the Parisian has accustomed 
himself to horse flesh. Experiments are, 
also, being made for saving and utilizing 
the milk of the female whale, as a new 
brand of condensed milk. This can, of 
course, only be obtained after the mon- 
ster has been slaughtered. One whale 
yields several barrels of this remarkably 
rich, creamy fluid. 

From the sea we can turn to the for- 
est for additional food supplies. The 
humble acorn has been far more exten- 
sively employed than, perhaps, one would 
imagine as an article for the table, or, at 
least, for the stomach, for devotees of 
the acorn often have no tables. In the 
countries of the Mediterranean, Mexico, 
and our own Southern States, the sweet 
acorns, which contain but little tannin, 
are the kinds that have been commonly 
used. The Indians of California even 
to this day depend largely upon the acorn 
for the vegetable part of their diet. Be- 



fore even the ''sweet" acorns are quite 
palatable the tannin must first be re- 
moved. This is done by dissolving the 
ground nuts in water, which is permitted 
to percolate afterward through sand, 
thus bearing away the unpleasantly bit- 
ter flavor. Bread is made from the meal. 
The bread is black as coal, but palatable 
and nutritious. The early Spanish set- 
tlers were accustomed to use the parched 
acorns with barley as a substitute for 
coffee. 

Lastly, if Nature and the Food Trusts 
should render our present means of liv- 
ing too difficult, we could turn to the 
desert. Some time ago a cactus farm 
was planted in Arizona, well under the 
hot skies of the southern part of the 
territory. The scientist in charge, also 
the chief owner, has brought together 
here a vast variety and is studying their 
possibilities as producers of fruit, medi- 
cine, and as storers of water. A Cali- 
fornia physician. Dr. Landone, of Los 
Angeles, is said to have lived for two 
weeks almost exclusively on Luther 
Burbank's spineless cactus. He lost no 
weight on his peculiar diet. When his 
fortnight was up he celebrated the event 
by a banquet. 

This was the menu : 

Soup: Cactus and Celery 

Omelet: Cactus and Green Peppers 

Salad : Cactus Fruit and Lettuce 

Fried Cactus 

Sherbet: Cactus Fruit 

**Wine List" : Cactus Juice 




The Art of the Flatiron 



By Alice Bergman 



WHEN we speak of the arts, 
how many of us think of the 
art of the flatiron, which in 
these days of labor-saving devices, cer- 
tainly ought to become a fine art? 

Sometimes called by the common and 
more plebeian name of ironing, this art 
appeals to some people in an unpleasant 
manner, rather than otherwise. Indeed, 
it brings to their minds the days when 
ironing was a primitive art ; when heavy, 
clumsy flatirons, a decidedly "kitchen-y" 
attire, and a hot room were the principal 
features of ironing day, even though the 
time might be in midsummer. Those 
were the days when the mistress of the 
house denied herself to all visitors and 
drudged all day at her ironing board. 

But now the art of the flatiron is 
brought to a high degree of superiority. 
One no longer uses the heavy, awkward 
flatiron or ponderous ironing board. In 
these days of electricity and aeroplanes, 
who would think of such a thing? 

Instead, the ironing board is a dainty 
affair which may be folded up if de- 
sired. One might almost mistake it for 
the afternoon tea table. It is so light 
that it can be unfolded and set up at a 
moment's notice, the electric flatiron ad- 



justed, and behold! the ironing outfit is 
ready. 

Nowadays, the mistress of the house 
may iron at her leisure. She puts on a 
frilled white apron over her gown, and 
if perchance she is interrupted, it is 
only necessary to discard the apron and 
she is ready to receive her visitors. 

Of course, this art of the flatiron, like 
all other arts, requires time and prac- 
tice. One cannot expect to have one's em- 
broidered blouses look dainty and sheer 
and "just like new" after the first attempt. 
The sleeves especially, are sure to have 
wrinkles. When one is certain that the 
wrinkles are all pressed out on one side, 
they are bound to appear on the other 
side, much to one's chagrin and discour- 
agement, especially if the person pre- 
siding at the flatiron be an amateur. 
Indeed, the wrinkles in a sleeve are like 
the "black cat" of Poe, when you think 
you are rid of them, they appear in some 
other place. 

This is just one of the many trials to 
be gone through before one becomes an 
artist in this work. And yet, with all 
the conveniences of the present day, there 
is no reason why we should not have 
more experts in the art of the flatiron. 



Kitchen vs. Kitchenette 

By E. Roberts 



AN article in a recent household 
magazine gives an enthusiastic 
description of a compact kitch- 
enette, so tiny that it is modeled after 
a ship's kitchen and takes up almost 
as little room. The writer tells with 
what difficulty she stowed herself 
away, in order to visit with the owner 



while luncheon was being prepared. 
At first I felt a pang of envy, contrast- 
ing the order and neatness which pre- 
vailed there with the somewhat chaotic 
condition which met my eyes as I 
looked up from the magazine I had 
picked up to fill in the moments un- 
til the high school boy should arrive 



49 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



in his usual starved condition. When 
he came, however, I wondered how he 
would fit into that tiny kitchenette, 
for the high school boy is long of limb 
and broad of shoulder and still grow- 
ing. 

I envied no more, for our kitchen is 
the Heart of the House. On the 
kitchen table the high school boy 
builds his aeroplanes and telegraph in- 
struments, and solves his algebra prob- 
lems, and conjugates his Latin verbs; 
at the kitchen sink he experiments with 
chemistry and physics, all with moth- 
er's sympathetic interest and help. A 
perfect kitchen companion is the jolly, 
whistling high school boy with his 
slang, his popular songs and his in- 
terest in everything, from modern 
aeronautics and wireless telegraphy 
back to Alexander the Great and Julius 
Caesar. You can't lose your hold on 
every part of your boy's life, if he and 
his chums are under your feet in the 
kitchen on holidays and stormy days. 
Where is there room, pray tell, for 
taflfy pulls and popcorn in a kitchen- 
ette? 

On the fireless cooker in the corner 



(cooker made by said high school boy) 
the ten-year-old boy finds subjects and 
predicates, with mother's help, cons his 
spelling lessons and ''bounds North 
America." In the chalked ring in the 
centre he ''knuckles down tight" and 
he may even spin his top here, build 
his kites and mend his sled. 

Baby boy gets his first lessons here, 
too, builds his blocks and runs his 
choo-choo train, "cranks his auto" with 
meat grinder and bread mixer, learns 
his letters from oven door and cereal 
carton and his numbers from clock and 
scale dial and calendar. 

Even the master of the house warms 
his back at the hot water boiler in the 
corner after his drives, as he answers 
the "Queen of the Kitchen's" inquiries 
about different patients he has visited 
that morning. 

There is even room for the high 
school boy's chum, "the yaller dog," 
and Four-year-old's kitten ; yes, there is 
even a comfortable chair for the neigh- 
bor who runs in "to borrow" and stays 
to chat. 

No, a kitchenette would never do 
for us. 



A Cafeteria Supper 

By Carrie Ashton Johnson 



ONE of the most popular novelties 
in church sociables given this sea- 
son is described below. 
Upon entering the hall or dining-room 
the guests or patrons were handed trays, 
silver, and Japanese napkins, and re- 
quested to visit the different counters 
and select what they desired. 

The menu was shown over the various 
counters. From a recent supper of this 
nature the ladies' society cleared nearly 
one hundred dollars, and all pronounced 
it a great improvement over the ordinary 
sociable supper. 



The following menu was served : 

Chicken Pie 05 

Roast Beef and Gravy 05 

Spaghetti with Spanish Sauce 05 

Mashed Potatoes 05 

Radishes 05 

Pickles 01 

Rolls and Butter 05 

Coffee 05 

Fruit Salad 05 

Perfection Salad 05 

Doughnuts ■ 05 

Ice Cream 05 

Cake 05 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will b( 

paid for at reasonable rates. 



Bouquets in the Oldtime Fashion 
are Revived 

THOSE who can remember back a 
good many decades will recall the 
stiff arrangements of flowers. There 
were vases in pairs on high mantels ; 
often they were flattened and high, with 
big curving tops running down low at 
the sides, supporting a stiff background 
of green foliage, before which were set 
in prim fashion various flowers, the 
short-stemmed ones in front. It was 
quite an innovation when the natural 
method was adopted, followed by the 
studio-sketch-class style of dropping 
things into queer jugs, or plumping 
things, like a mass of nasturtiums with- 
out the leaevs, into vases, ''for color, not 
form." 

With the return of old-fashioned 
houses and furnishings, the high, narrow 
mantels and set pairs of candlesticks and 
vases are again in vogue — everything 
has come back but the old-fashioned 
manners, and "dropping a curtsy." 

After the oldtime hand bouquet, car- 
ried with a lace handkerchief, which was 
held by a gold chain and ring, came the 
loose bouquet and the "shower bouquet." 
Now the fashion has reverted to such 
hand bouquets as our grandmothers car- 
ried with pride at Saratoga "before the 
war," and in Boston, New York and 
Philadelphia, when they lived in sections 
now given over to trade and foreign 
tongues. 

The bouquets, made to copy the style 
of that time, are now displayed by lead- 



ing florists. One order recently seen 
was a lot of dark red rosebuds put close 
together in a mound, surrounded by a 
lace-paper border in the old-fashioned, 
economical style, when young ladies were 
expected to be careful of their kid 
gloves ; they valued a pair of one-but- 
toned white ones far more than modern 
girls do a boxful of elbow length. Be- 
side the lace paper there was a delicate 
wider frill of white gauzy stuff, and 
these supported an entwined border of 
hot-house lilies of the valley, showing 
the tender, pale green leaves, but more 
of the blossoms. Hanging from the bou- 
quet were two knotted ends of rather 
wide ribbon, of the exact shade of crim- 
son-red as the rosebuds. 

Since these hand bouquets have come 
back, we may yet have the revival of 
the "bead baskets" of years gone by. 
There were patterns in Godey's Lady's 
Book and Peterson's, in the '60's. Crys- 
tal beads and bugles were bought and 
made into baskets for holding cut flow- 
ers. A glass bowl was set inside holding 
the necessary water. These baskets were 
suspended by chains of beads. 

This kind of a flower basket was often 
hung in the centre of the room from 
the ceiling, or below a chandelier over 
a table, or from the centre of a bay- 
window; and woe betide the tall man 
who passed under and tilted the thing. 
Perhaps some old New England home 
has one yet? Although, in the progres- 
sion of art ideas, there has always been 
a procession of things, ascending from 
the "parlor" to the "best bedroom" and 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



thence to the ''attic." 

* * * 

Fruit Punch 



J. D. C. 



The ingredients are 



2 quarts of shredded 
pineapple 

2 dozen oranges 
1 dozen lemons 

3 quarts of straw- 

berries 



8 pounds of sugar 
1 quart of appoUin- 

aris 
1 quart of maras- 
chino cherries 



Method: Boil two quarts of straw- 
berries with enough cold water to cover. 
Strain and mash pulp through colander. 
Set aside to cool. Extract juice from 
the lemons and oranges and pour over 
the sugar. Let this stand for four hours, 
stirring occasionally. Add strawberry 
juice and pulp. Stir and strain through 
a fine strainer, add water to make five 
gallons in all. When ready to serve add 
one quart of sliced strawberries, the 
shredded pineapple, appolinaris, and 
maraschino cherries. 

One of the best labor saving devices 
I have found to be a piece of unbleached 
muslin, large enough to cover the top of 
the bureau or dresser, hemmed and 
spread over top either while combing 
hair or put on at night and left till the 
room is put in order the next morning. 
This can easily be done, by removing the 
few articles needed meanwhile. In this 
way much litter is kept from top of 
dresser, and much labor saved both in 
the way of dusting and the laundering 
of bureau cover. a. g. b. 



Saving Fine Table Linen 

IF one has some cherished table linen 
and it shows decided signs of wear, 
a ''hint to the wise is usually sufficient" ; 
well, to repair it almost invisibly is a 
work of art, and if this simple sugges- 
tion is followed the life of your cloth 
will be prolonged considerably. 

Plac-e it smoothly on a sewing table 
wrong side up ; over the worn part baste 
neatly a piece of fine net; darn it down 
through the holes (of net), using fine 



flax thread for the purpose; remove the 
bastings carefully, press the cloth, and if 
you have proceeded as directed, you will 
be delighted with the result. 

It is supposed everyone knows that 
old tablecloths can be cut up into nap- 
kins, which will last a long time when 
neatly hemmed; the worn parts should 
be kept; they are invaluable for burns, 
and many other purposes in case of sick- 
ness. 

Flax thread is obtainable from the 

notion counter of any good department 

store. L. N. 

• ♦ ♦ * 

Completing the Garden 

NO kitchen garden is complete that 
is ploughed every year from cor- 
ner to corner, from end to end. It 
should have a border, and a good wide 
one, where pie-plant, mint, asparagus, 
pepper grass, sage and others of their 
kind grow and flourish from year to 
year. 

When spring comes, if you can't go 
into your garden and gather rhubarb for 
a pie you are cheated. When the lettuce 
is big enough to pick it should be served 
with pepper grass, and this you will get 
from the unplowed end of your garden. 
Then your asparagus bed will prove a 
blessing to offer thanks for and the mint 
and sage, etc., will pay for all the care 
you give them a hundred fold. 

The kitchen garden is a necessity, but 
make up your mind this fall that you 
will begin fiUing one end of it with the 
kind of plants that need not be grown 
anew every season. l. m. 

5$: * * 

A Wedding of Beautiful 
Simplicity 

IN this day of ultra-fashion in wed- 
dings, when cost marks are flaunted 
and scream so loud that hearts dare not 
whisper, it is refreshing to know of a 
home wedding where forethought and 
good cheer and naturalness reigned, 
and where money played no part. 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



53 



It was just a quiet little affair in a 
city flat. As newcomers in town, the 
three, mother, son and daughter, had 
almost no close friends. 

"A lucky thing," laughed the bride-to- 
be, "since we have no time nor thought 
nor space for them in this. We will 
have just our own — the relatives and old 
friends we could not do without," 

But there was no lack of cheer or 
beauty. Music of the happiest, sweetest 
kind was furnished in abundance by the 
guests themselves, with harp and piano 
accompaniments. The rooms were dec- 
orated with daisies (the flower of the 
country town where the two had played 
together as children), combined with 
quantities of asparagus fern sent from 
the groom's new Southern home. 

Among the gifts that had come in was 
a costly clock. This the bride had placed 
conspicuously on the mantel, banked with 
ferns and flowers ; and she had wound 
it and set the hands at exactly two min- 
utes to eight — the wedding hour. Her 
brother had been instructed to start it 
exactly on time, the first stroke of its 
musical gong being the signal for the 
pianist to begin the wedding march and 
for the bride to start down stairs. This 
worked perfectly, and forever after the 
striking of the clock will be a happy 
reminder in the new home. 

At the luncheon which followed the 
ceremony, the bride and groom were 
served upon some old family china that 
had graced her grandparents' wedding 
more than seventy years before. 

Another cherished reminder in the 
little flat was ''father's" old arm chair. 
He had left them for the other country 
less than a year ago, and the chair was 
still *'his place" in the household. 
Through a quiet word passed among 
the guests, this seat of honor was left 
vacant, the only vacant spot when the 
clock struck eight and the brother turned 
from his duties as host and master of 
ceremonies to seat himself for the ser- 
vice. When he saw the place reserved 
for him by the thoughtfulness of others, 



his eyes suddenly filled and he realized 
that henceforth he was to be more than 
son ; he w^as in ''father's place." 

Nor was this the only tribute paid to 
dear memory that day. The bride's bou- 
quet of glorious roses was handed over 
on her departure to the girl-chum w^ho 
had come from the home town; and be- 
fore the next sun had set they were lying 
on the father's grave, with a bit of paper 
attached, which said, in the bride's hand- 
writing, "Wishing for you this day." 

jf: stc sje L. M. C. 

The Summer Dining-Room 

THE country housekeeper, handi- 
capped by many disadvantages, 
can teach us much of what simple in- 
genuity can do to improve undesirable 
circumstances. 

In an old-fashioned farmhouse, there 
was no dining-room, and the kitchen, 
where the big wood stove roared, was 
insufferably warm during the summer 
months. 

The city visitor was surprised to see 
how easily her hostess had overcome the 
deficiency. 

From rough material a roomy porch 
v/as built across the back of the kitchen. 
From similar materials a table was built. 
Two windows and a door opened from 
the kitchen to the porch. 

For the window nearest the stove a 
screen was constructed by making a 
frame the size of the window, covering 
it with mosquito netting, and hanging 
it to the outside of the window frame by 
hinges like a door. To the inner sill 
was added a broad shelf. Here food 
prepared for the meal was placed, and 
easily set on the table through the win- 
dow. 

The other window was taken out en- 
tirely, and on the inside was set an old 
cupboard, *f rom which the back had been 
removed. The window blinds covered, 
with the netting protected the outside, 
and dishes could be removed or returned 
to the cupboard without entering the 
house. 



54 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Vines were planted about the porch, 
and it was cool and inviting. Plain 
wooden chairs that the weather could 
not affect were used. The floor was 
painted, that it might be more easily 
cleaned. 

Here the family ate their meals, and 
here the dishes were generally washed. 
The dining table, being undisturbed, was 
ready in the kitchen for cold or stormy 
days. 

The next spring, as soon as warm 
weather approached, the city woman be- 
gan thinking of that out-of-door dining- 
room. For a small outlay she screened 
her own back porch and planted vines, 
and here she installed a family dining 
table. So beneficial did this prove to 
the whole family that she considered it 
worth actual dollars to them. 

A long cloth flapping in the breeze is 
entirely out of place in such a room, so 
she made cloths just the size of the table 
top, and here was another saving, in 
laundry work. 

The average housekeeper does not get 
into the air and sunshine enough. Out- 
of-door living is inestimable in its bene- 
fits, and need not require costly trips or 
expensive improvements. 

A Garden Plea 

TWO years ago I began a little gar- 
den. The desire to have for my 
own some of the lovely oldtime flowers 
was the first thing that prompted the 
garden. The pleasure of ownership has 
been mine and the joyous possession of 
these beautiful flowers has been great, 
but I can truthfully say it is nothing 
compared to the joy I have been able to 
give, and the desire to share is now as 
consuming as the desire to possess. 

I often hear the complaint among 
women that 'T do not have a garden 
because it is so much work," or 'T have 
no time to fuss with a flower garden." 
While I cannot understand a normal 
woman hesitating over anything because 
it is 'Svork" — that being the royal road 
over which all things worth while travel, 



— I understand even less how lack of 
"time" has anything to do with garden- 
ing. We know women always find time 
for what they most desire, and it does 
not take an acre to make a garden; the 
most successful gardens I have known 
have been tiny affairs tended by hurried 
and harassed business men and women. 

Why should women be particularly 
interested in gardening and what do they 
gain therefrom? Let us count a few of 
the ''gains." 

Gardening is diverting, interesting, 
healthful, progressive and profitable. 'T 
love bridge, it is so diverting," hundreds 
of women cry. But we do not always 
need the kind of diversion the bridge 
table brings. Some of us still believe in 
the real "touch of Nature," getting close 
to the soil, back to elemental things. 

The interest in a garden is unceasing — 
even in midwinter one loves to wander 
forth and view the wonders wrought 
after a snowstorm — a transformed fairy 
garden where weeds are quite as attrac- 
tive as rose bushes. 

Everybody agrees that gardening is 
healthful, for it makes one work in the 
open and chases cobwebs away from 
tired brains. 

All modern women wish to appear 
progressive. Then do not be ignorant of 
gardens. Gardening has become such an 
important factor in our social and edu- 
cational world that the best authorities 
are sought after to present the subject. 
One hears of "community gardens," of 
"school gardens," and we know that effi- 
cient women are awake to its possibili- 
ties in relation to the child. 

The profitable part of gardening can 
easily be traced in dollars and cents, as 
many women thrown suddenly on their 
own resources can testify, but the profit 
derived in being able to send a basket 
of violets to your sick friend, to crowd 
a rose through the fence into the warm 
hand of a child, to carry a bunch of 
spring flowers to the toilers in the city, 
who would hesitate to "take time" to 
make these things possible? g. h. h. 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating 
to recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answers by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit $1.00. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, editor, Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston St., Boston, Mass, 



Query 1729. — " Recipes for Strawberry Ice 
Cream and Strawberry Sauce to serve with 
Ice Cream." 

Strawberry Ice Cream 

1 quart of rich cream juice 

1 cup of sugar I U cups of sugar 

1 pint of strawberry ' Juice of i a lemon 

Mix the cream and cup of sugar and 
turn the crank of the freezer until the 
mixture is partly frozen; add the fruit 
juice, mixed with the cup and a half of 
sugar, and finish freezing. Let stand an 
hour or two before serving, to ripen. 
The quantity of berries needed to secure 
the measure of juice indicated varies. 
As purchased at market two baskets of 
berries would be the average. The ber- 
ries may be put through a vegetable or 
potato ricer and then strained through a 
cheese-cloth to exclude seeds. To mix 
the berries with the sugar and set them 
aside for an hour or two facilitates the 
removal of the juice. 

Strawberry Sauce 

Hull and wash a basket of berries. 
Add sugar to taste, from one to two 
cups, crush with a pestle and let stand 
in a cool place until ready to use. 

Strawberry Sauce 2 

Scald a basket of hulled berries ; let 
heat slowly to avoid adding water, or 
burning. Press through a fine strainer 
(such as is used to sift powdered sugar), 
add an equal measure of sugar and let 
boil ten minutes, skimming as needed. 



Thicken with a teaspoonful of arrow- 
root, made smooth in a little cold water, 
or add a tablespoonful of lemon juice, 
or flavor to taste with Kirsch as is de- 
sired. 



Query 1730. — " Recipe for Strawberry 
Tarts, such as are seen at fine bakeries in 
the cities." 



Strawberry Tarts 

From remnants of puff or flaky pas- 
try cut out rounds nearly three inches in 
diameter. Pipe chou paste on the edge 
of each round, using -either a plain or 
a star tube with half inch opening. 
Prick the paste in the centre and let 
bake fifteen to twenty minutes. Fill the 
centres with choice preserved straw- 
berries. The syrup of the berries may 
be reduced to a jelly and the straw- 
berries then added, and when cold set 
in place in the tarts. Chou paste is the 
paste from which cream cakes and 
eclairs are made. The recipe is given in 
all modern cook books. 



Query 1731. — " What is Aspic Mayon- 
naise? " 

Aspic Mayonnaise 

To any measure of mayonnaise dres- 
sing take one-third its bulk of aspic. The 
jelly should be neither firm nor liquid, 
but in such a condition that it will blend 
perfectly with the mayonnaise. Gradual- 
ly beat it into the mayonnaise. 



55 



56 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Query 1732. — "What is the best way to 
wash an earthen pot in which Boston Baked 
Beans have been baked?" 

How to Wash a Bean Pot 

Put two or three generous tablespoon- 
fuls of sal-soda into the pot and pour in 
hot or cold water ; set the cover in place, 
letting the water come up over the cover 
to the very top of the pot. Let stand 
overnight, pour out the water, and with 
clean cloth (not the dish cloth) and hot 
water wash thoroughly, rinse several 
times, and wipe dry. Burn the cloth 
(to save cleaning it). With this pro- 
cedure the bean pot may be made im- 
maculate in less than five minutes. Sal 
soda costs two or three cents a pound 
and is the cheapest cleanser known. As 
sal soda is a caustic alkaH, it must be 
used with care. 



Query 1733. — " Recipe for Chicken Cooked 
en Casserole." 

Chicken en Casserole 

Cook the chicken, cleaned and separ- 
ated into joints, in butter, bacon, or salt- 
pork fat, made hot in a frying-pan, until 
browned on one side. Then turn the 
pieces, and brown the other side. Put 
the joints into the casserole : put in about 
a pint of hot stock or water, cover the 
dish, and set into the oven. Let cook 
at a gentle simmer about an hour and 
a quarter. Then add two dozen potato 
balls or cubes, one dozen tiny young 
onions, or peeled fresh mushroom caps, 
and a dozen slices of carrot, all browned 
in the frying-pan, and three or four ta- 
blespoonfuls of sherry wine, with salt 
and pepper to season. Cover close, and 
let cook fifteen or twenty minutes 
longer. Send to the table in the dish, 
and without removing the cover. Flour 
and water mixed to a thin dough may be 
rolled into a rope or string, under the 
hands, and pressed upon the casserole, 
where the dish and cover meet, to keep 
in flavor. 

The dough should be removed, but 
the cover should not be lifted until after 



the dish has been set upon the table. 

The onions, potato balls and slices of 
carrot should be blanched and dried be- 
fore being set to brown. To blanch, let 
boil five minutes, drain and rinse in cold 
water. The pieces of chicken may be 
rolled in flour before sauteing. The 
pinions, neck and back may be used for 
broth in which to cook the rest of the 
chicken. 



Query 1734. — " Recipes for Strawberry 
Jam and Preserves that are dark red in 
color." 

Strawberry Preserves 

Take equal weights of hulled-and- 
washed berries and granulated sugar; 
put these into a preserving kettle in 
layers, a layer of berries first ; when the 
juice is well drawn out, set the dish over 
the fire and let the contents simmer 
twenty minutes after boiling begins ; 
skim as needed ; take the preserves out 
on plates, cover with glass — panes of 
window glass answer nicely — and set 
the plates in the sun ; stir occasionally 
for two days, then store in glass jars. 
Some berries give a darker colored pre- 
serve than others. The fruit and sugar 
mixture should not be more than three 
inches deep on the plates. The above 
recipe is the one used by an expert who 
puts up strawberry preserves for sale. 
Miss Parloa, in Farmers' Bulletin No. 
203, gives a similar recipe, but cooks 
the fruit and sugar over the fire but ten 
minutes after boiling is once established. 

Strawberry Jam or Marmalade 

Allov/ one pint of sugar to each quart 
of pre ared fruit, (hulled and washed). 
Crush the fruit, add the sugar and mix 
thoroughly ; let stand until the sugar is 
dissolved, then press through a fine 
sieve ; rinse the preserving saucepan 
with, cold water, turn in the sifted mix- 
ture and let cook slowly, stirring fre- 
quently, about two hours. If the seeds 
be not objectionable, the mixture may 
be set to cook without sifting. Store as 
jelly. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



5:^^^ 



ICE CREAM 

TAaTs 

Twice as Good 

That sounds like an exaggeration. 
But read the facts ! 

Every good cook knows that the more 
air she can whip into her creams, meringues 
and pastes, the smoother, more dehcate, more 
deUcious they become. 

That is exactly what happens in the 

ALASKA 




* * The freezer with the 
aerating dasher'* 

With every turn of the Alaska 
dasher, its five aerating spoons are 
whipping air into every particle of 
the cream. The great problem was to 
do this in a rapidly freezing liquid. The 
Alaska does it for the first time in the 
history of ice cream making. The result 
is a revelation in texture and delicacy. 

This same principle shortens the time of freezing. The Alaska turns out perfect 
ice cream in 3 minutes. 

And the Alaska is the easiest of all freezers to operate. 

It has covered gears — no chance of pinching the fingers. 
The simplest in construction of all freezers — by far the 
easiest to keep clean. The strongest freezer made — will last 
a life-time. 

If you'd like to make ice cream more delicious than any you've 
ever tasted. 

Send for our new booklet "Good News for Ice Cream Lovers." 

It contains some little known facts on how to use a freezer and 
some world-famous receipts for frozen dishes. 




This shows the wonder- 
working aerating spoon 
dasher 



THE ALASKA FREEZER COMPANY 

1767 LINCOLN AVE., WINCHENDON, MASS. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
ix 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Query 1735. — " Recipe for Planked Steak. 
How is the plank made ? " 

Planked Sirloin Steak 

The. steak should be cut about an inch 
and a quarter thick. Wipe the steak 
with a cloth wrung out of cold water. 
Have ready a hot broiler, well oiled, or 
rubbed over with a slice of fat pork. 
Cook the steak over the coals about 
€ight minutes, turning five or six times. 
Have a plank hot and well oiled; on it 
set the steak, pipe hot mashed potato 
.around the edge of the plank and dispose 
four or five small cooked onions be- 
tween the steak and potato. Brush the 
•edges of the potato and the tops of the 
onions with the yolk of an e:gg, beaten 
with two tablespoonfuls of milk, and set 
the plank into the oven. Turn the plank 
if necessary that the edges of the potato 
he evenly browned. This will require 
some eight minutes, in the oven of a 
coal range, and will give time to finish 
cooking the steak. Fill in the rest of 
the space with cooked flowerets of cauH- 
flower. Season the steak with salt, pep- 
per and butter. Dispose above the steak 
as many Swedish timbale . cases as peo- 
ple to be served. The cases should first 
he filled with peas in cream sauce. Set 
a slice of cooked carrot above the peas 
in each case. Serve with a bowl of 
iDrown tomato sauce, either with or with- 
out mushrooms. 

The vegetables served with a planked 
steak vary according to the season of 
the year. It is well to select those that 
are at their best when the dish is served. 
Thus, at this time of the year, asparagus 
is preferable to cauliflower. Three or 
four stalks of hot, cooked cauliflower, 
held together by a ring cut from a sHce 
of cooked carrot, should be set in place 
for each of those to be served. Stuflfed 
tomatoes may replace the cases of green 
peas, or both may be omitted. 

Plank for Planked Steak 

An oval-shaped plank of hard wood 
(often oak) is preferable for planked 



steak. The planks are usually about an 
inch and a half thick. Those purchased 
for the purpose are made with strips of 
wood on the ends to prevent warping 
when heated. Any smooth piece of hard 
wood of the right size (appropriate to 
the meat to be served on it) might be 
used. 



Query 1736. — "Kindly name a few dishes 
that may be prepared on Saturday for Sun- 
day. Also tell me why the meringue on my 
pies becomes watery and slips away from 
the crust." , 

Dishes Prepared on Saturday for 
Sunday 

In meats, fillet of beef, roasted, boned 
breast of veal, cooked in a casserole 
without liquid and basted with fat, oc- 
casionally, brisket of corned beef or a 
pickled tongue, boiled, may be served 
hot, on Saturday, and the remainder set 
aside to serve, cold, on Sunday. \^eal 
loaf may be cooked on Saturday. At 
least one hot vegetable should be pre- 
pared on Sunday. Spinach cooked on 
Saturday may be pressed into a bowl and 
served on Sunday with French dressing. 
Old potatoes, pared and soaked some 
hours in cold water, may be cooked on 
Saturday. What are left may be heated 
quickly in boiling water, drained, pressed 
through a ricer, seasoned properly and 
beaten with a little hot milk and butter 
to a snowy mass. Thus, in less than ten 
minutes, a dish of mashed potatoes can 
be served, as good in every particular as 
if fresh cooked. 

In sweet dishes blanc mange, Bavar- 
ian creams, boiled custard with or with- 
out snow eggs, floating island, straw- 
berry or apricot tarts, ready for filling, 
fruit in jelly, as prune, rhubarb or lemon 
jelly; the latter served with sliced ban- 
anas, are among the many simple things 
that will keep in good condition in a 
cool place overnight. 

Cause of Trouble with JMeringue 

An answer to this question will be" 
found in answer to query 1726, page 



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pour into the gravy just a 
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FOR 64 years the Eddy has seen all sorts of refrigi i 
ators come and go. During that time it has be n 
the one best refrigerator. Today your dealer w 11 
tell you, ** There is nothing like the Eddy." 

Porcelain and glass linings are theoretically fine. 
Practically^ they crack easily, dirt gathers in the cre- 
vices, the cement joints absorb grease and moisture. 
The Eddy is lined with zinc, the only perfectly sanitary 
lining yet discovered. 

The Eddy is not simply an ice-box. It is a refriger- 
ating machine in which ice economy, perfect insulation 
and absolutely dry cold are scientifically worked out. 
Sixty sizes. Freight prepaid if your dealer cannot supply yc 
The facts in our catalogue are worth knowing. Write for 

D. Eddy & Sons Company 

333 Adams Street, Boston 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
xi 



THE BOSTOX COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



xii. of the ]\Iay number of this maga- 
zine. 



Query 1737. — " Recipe for making coffee 
for every-day family use. Is there any ob- 
jection to making coffee with cold water, 
and removing it from the fire when the boil- 
ing point is reached?" 

Recipe for Making Coffee 

On page 496 of the May, 1911, num- 
ber of this magazine will be found a 
recipe for "After Dinner Coffee." Sub- 
stitute a full cup of water for the half 
cup, given in this recipe, and the recipe 
for breakfast coffee results. As but lit- 
tle of the tannin in coffee is extracted 
except by boiling, we see no reason why 
coffee might not be made with cold 
water, then brought quickly to the boil- 
ing point. The volatile oil which gives 
the characteristic flavor and aroma to 
coffee is largely withdrawn within fif- 
teen minutes after boiling begins ; thus 
coffee should be poured from the 
grounds, at least, within that time. 



Query 1738. - 
Sunshine Cakes." 



Recipes for Angel and 



Angel Food Cake 

Take as many whites of eggs as are 
needed to fill a cup (about ten). Sift 
a portion of flour five times, then meas- 
ure out one cup of it. Beat the whites 
of eggs until foamy, then add half a 
teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and beat 
until dry. Gradually beat in one cup of 
sugar ^nd a teaspoonful of vanilla ex- 
tract. Then cut, and fold in the cup of 
flour. Bake in a tube pan about forty- 
five minutes. 

Angel Cake, Fryeburg Recipe 

Beat the whites of eight eggs until 
foamy ; add half a teaspoonful of cream 
of tartar, and beat until dry, then grad- 
ually beat in one cup and a half of sugar, 
and one teaspoonful of vanilla, then fold 
in one cup of pastry flour measured after 
sifting. Bake in a tube pan about forty- 
five minutes. 

To bake, divide the time into quarters, 
in the first quarter, the cake should sim- 



ph' rise in the pan, in the second quarter, 
it should continue to rise and begin to 
take on a little color, in the third quarter, 
the whole surface should become evenly 
tinted a light brown ; in the last quarter, 
the cake should settle a little. Do not 
move the cake during the second and 
third quarter. 

Sunshine Cake 

Make the same as Angel Cake except 
beat the yolks of three eggs very light, 
beat in the sugar, fold in the whites and 
the flour. Flavor with orange extract. 

Query 1739. — "How much chocolate do 
you add to a sponge cake to make a dark 
colored cake? " 

Chocolate Sponge Cake 

To the yolks and sugar of a yellow 
sponge cake mixture beat in from one 
to two ounces of melted chocolate or 
use grated chocolate or two tablespoon- 
fuls of cocoa without melting it; then 
fold in the stiffly beaten whites and the 
flour. Flavor with vanilla. 



Query 1740. — "Will you give the correct 
proportion of flour, water, salt, sugar and 
yeast for four loaves of bread made with 
compressed yeast. I would like the propor- 
tion of yeast in weight or spoonful. The 
yeast does not come to us in packages but 
we buy it of the baker. Sometimes the bread 
is as fine grained as cake and sometimes 
coarse and insipid. 



Materials for Four 
Bread 



Loaves of 



1 cup of water 
About 3 quarts of 
flour 



4 cups of water 

i a cup of sugar 

2 teaspoonfuls of salt 

About i oz. of yeast I 

We think the trouble with the bread 
lies with the yeast only indirectly. Good 
bread may be made with a large propor- 
tion of yeast, but, the time of rising be- 
ing shortened, the bread needs attention 
sooner than it does when a small quan- 
tity of yeast is used. Coarse grained, 
tasteless bread usually results, when the 
dough has been subjected to too great 
heat during the rising or has risen too 
much (often risen and fallen or flat- 
tened out"! before it was cut down. 



Xll 



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in its range for a fraction of a cent. 
A cent's worth of electricity lasts 
twelve minutes. 

It is ready for instant service, day 
or night, wherever there is an avail- 
able electric-light socket. Being ab- 
solutely safe, flameless and clean, it 
can be use4 on the dining-room or 
library table or in the boudoir. 

This electric Disk Stove is only 
three inches high, and has a circular 
cooking surface four inches across 
and a polished enamel base about 



five inches square. 

This Disk Stove is for sale gener- 
ally by electric-lighting companies, 
electrical supply dealers, many de- 
partment and hardware stores and 
others selling similar household ap- 
pliances. 

Be sure to specify the General 
Electric Company's Four-Inch Disk 
Stove. It alone uses the '^Calorite" 
heating unit which is practically in- 
destructible. 

**Calorite''makes it possible for this 
stove to develop far more heat than 
any other electric stove of its size. 



If you cannot get it locally, send us $5.50, stating the voltage of your lighting 
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heating and cooking devices for use in the home. 

General Electric Company 

Dept. 17-H, Schenectady, N. Y. 

LARGEST ELECTRICAL MANUFACTURER IN THE WORLD 2921 




Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
xiii 



New Books 



Foods and Their Adulteration. By Har- 
vey W. Wiley, Ph. D. Second edi- 
tion, revised and enlarged, with 11 
colored plates and 87 other illustra- 
tions. Octavo 641 pages. Cloth 
$4.00 net. P. Blakiston's Son & 
Co., Philadelphia, Pa. 
This book is designed for a wide var- 
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as well as for the benefit of the public, 
for whom it was really written ; for the 
manufacturer and dealer in foodstuffs 
as well as for the purchaser and con- 
sumer. It contains a great deal of gen- 
eral information about food values and 
the use of food for bodily nourishment, 
and a great deal of interesting material 
which will be found especially helpful 
to the householder. 

''She or he who will assimilate what 
Doctor Wiley has to say on the subject 
of foods must of necessity attain a 
worldly wisdom that will ever prove of 
great value. We need an intelligent 
knowledge of the things we put into our 
stomachs. If we knew more about such 
things, we would know more about our- 
selves." 

It required about twenty years of ef- 
fort on the part of those interested to 
get Congress to pass the Food and Drugs 
Act to curb unscrupulous food and drug 
manufacturers. Since the adoption of 
this law there have been few protests 
against its workings, though all sorts of 
arguments were raised in advance in re- 
gard to its commercial effects. On the 
whole, therefore, the law has been a 
great benefit not only to the consumer, 
but to all honest manufacturers. There 
have been upwards of 1,500 violations 
of the Act taken up by the Agricultural 
Department, and of these, more than a 
thousand were recommended by the At- 
torney-General for legal action. Many 
thousands of dollars have been imposed 
as fines, exclusive of court costs. Many 



flagrant violations of the law were dis- 
covered, largely- in the misbranding of 
extracts and various medicines, foods, 
condiments, spices, etc. ; and the inspec- 
tion of drugs has resulted in increasing 
the standard of purity, greatly to the 
benefit of the public. 

As a source of information or a work 
of reference, this book must be classed 
among those that are of great value. 

Chemisfrx of Food and Nutrition. By 
Henry C. Sherman, Ph. D. Cloth. 
Price $1.50 net. New York: The 
Mac]\Iillan Company. 
The purpose of this volume is to pre- 
sent the principles of the chemistry of 
food and nutrition, with special refer- 
ence to the food requirements of man. 
and the consideration which should un- 
derlie our judgment of the nutritive 
value of food. 

Even among medical practitioners, to- 
day, preventive methods are rapidly sup- 
planting the old-time practice of admin- 
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plays in the activities of life is ever 
growing in importance. 

In this volume the principles involved 
in the chemistrv of food and nutrition 




Ordinar}^ dusting scatters but does not 
remove dust and germs. Use cheese-cloth 
dampened with tepid water to which a Httle 
Piatt's Chlorides, the odorless disinfectant, 
has been added. Wring out till dry so that 
it will not streak the wood work, etc. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
xiv 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



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'-v.;«i>i'cs.sl.sJS, 





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DESSERTS containing 
Egg and Milk — espe- 
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The principal ingredients in ice cream 
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Sure of the materials you use, sure 
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Write for our booklet "Frozen 
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Look for the diamond 




the 



The White Mountain 
Freezer Co. 

Dept. AR. Nashua, N. H. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

XV 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



are stated in simple and latest term's b}- 
a teacher of experience and authority. 
Nutrition is defined as the sum of the 
processes contained in the growth, main- 
tenance and repair of the living body as 
a whole, or of its constituent organs. 
It includes all those processes which have 
to do with the upbuilding and repairing 
of the tissues and supplying them with 
food for their work. The chapters on 
Food Habits and Dietary Standards, and 
Iron in Food and its Functions in Nu- 
trition, are especially interesting and val- 
uable. To teachers, students and others 
who wish to acquire accurate, scientific 
knowledge of the chemistry of nutrition, 
this book can be recommended without 
reserve. 

Selections from the Old Testament. By 
H-ENRY Nelson Snyder. 16mo, 
210 pages. Price, 30 cents. Bos- 
ton : Ginn & Company. 
These selections include characteristic 





[RUBBER BUTTON] 

HOSE SUPPORTER 

FOR BOYS AND GIRLS. 

It is desirable because it is right in everyway. 

Keeps the stockings neat and unwrinkled. 

Easily managed by small fingers. 

Sample Pair,Children'ssize(state age) 16c. postpaid. 
•^jLook for the Moulded Rubber Button 
«=*and '-Velvet Grip" stamped on the loop. 
Sold by Dealers Everyivhere. 
GEORGE FROST COMPANY. Boston, U. S. A. 



passages from both the prose and the 
poetry of the Old Testament, and are 
chosen primarily for high school and 
college use. They are representative of 
the various types of Biblical style and 
form, and in such fullness as to give 
a definite conception of the essential 
qualities of Old Testament thought and 
history. Each selection, moreover, is 
chosen with the view of producing a 
clear impression of the great outstand- 
ing personalities of the Bible. The 
selections follow each other in historical 
and biographical sequence, and much of 
the unity of the complete narrative is 
thus preserved. The introduction to the 
text furnishes a history of the Bible in 
English and discusses the literary char- 
acteristics of the Authorized Version. 

The presentation of these selections in 
this form is highly commendable. The 
somewhat strange and unusual setting 
incites a new interest in Bible reading. 
The historical character of the Old Tes- 
tament narratives becomes clearly mani- 
fest; while the, pictures of the age, the 
peoples and their environments, and the 
leading personalities render the reading 
interesting, indeed. Of the literary style 
and beauties of the authorized version of 
the Old Testament too much praise can- 
not be given. These are ever worthy of 
constant cultivation b}- old and young. 
Well may this book be made a part of 
the course in English in every school in 
the land. \\'hen the Bible is approached 
from a historical and literary point of 
view, and its study is included in the 
curriculum of every school, it will be 
far better appreciated and its influence 
for good more definite and wide-spread. 



Boston, April 17, 1911. 

A life of Airs. Richards is to be writ- 
ten with the approval of Professor Rich- 
ards. 

It is hoped that the story of her life 
may be of such a character that it will 
not only interest those who have known 
i\Irs. Richards, either personally or 
through her work, but will also serve to 



Buy Advertised Goods 



■ do not 
xvi 



accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




A Poor unsanitary refrigerator will spoil the 
best food. Why not be up-to-date and 
have a SUCCESS ALL STEEL They are 
sanitary, durable, economical and inexpensive. 
Send for booklet, it costs you nothing. 

Success Manufacturing Company 

GLOUCESTER, MASS. 



"Cleanliness 
is next to 
Godliness" 



Sectional View 
Showing: Con-^ 
struction 



GENUINE 

HUNTER'S SIFTER 

the Standard for a ^uarter=Centurff 

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If your dealer can't supply the GENUINE 
HUNTER'S SIFTER, send his name and 20c for 
sifter postpaid. 

THE FRED J. MEYERS MFG. CO. 

1514 Bender Street Hamilton. Ohio 










Grape Juicf 

U^er^ qf WELCH'S are ^ 

THE day you try WELCH'S at the 
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minute you serve it in a punch or sherbet, 

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we pay a bonus over the regular daily 

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Invalids relish it; it helps them get we 
Children love it, and you may h 

them have all they want. 

We are glad to send, immediately, 

our free booklet of WELCH grape 

juice recipes, tellingof many delicious 

desserts and drinks, if you will write 

us for it. 



Your dealer will supply you with 
WELCH'S, Ask him for it. Always say 
"JVELCH'S.'' Trial 4 oz. bottle by mail, 
10c. Trial case of 12 pints, express free 
east of Omaha, $3.00. 





The Welch Grape Juice Co, 

Westfield, N. Y. 



t^elcK 
0fape 



Sii 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



The extract used gives ice 
cream its flavor. No matter 
what your ingredients, the rich, 
yet delicate, delicious flavor of 

Burnett's 
Vanilla 

made from the finest Mexican 
Vanilla Beans, will improve 
your desserts greatly. 

JOSEPH BURNETT CO. 

Boston, Mass. 



COOK WITHOUT FIRE 




A servant that serves whether you are away 
or at home — that's the HYGIENIC FIRE- 
LESS COOKER AND BAKER. 

When you go away in the morning, place 
your dinner in the cooker — on your return you 
will find the most savory meal cooked in the 
most satisfactory manner. 

Magic ! Not a bit of it. Simply the appli- 
cation of the principle of utilizing stored heat 
energy. The HYGIENIC is built to retain the 
heat placed in it, just as was the brick oven of 
our grandmothers. You simply heat the plates 
and place them in the cooker with the food — 
then forget all about your cooking until meal 
time. It does not scorch or burn. 

Send the name of your Hardware Dealer and we will mail 
you free a copy of our catalogue and " Tireless Cooking. " 
Write now. 

Stephens Manufacturing Company 

344 Franklin Building. Buffalo, N. Y. 



extend her influence and to inspire fu- 
ture workers. 

Any material, such as lettters, pho- 
tographs, characteristtic sayings and 
incidents, which will help to show her 
personality and her far-reaching inter- 
ests and activities will be very valuable 
to the editor. Miss Caroline L. Hunt, and 
should be sent to her at 32 Eliot Street, 
Jamaica Plain, Mass. 

Isabel F. Hyams, 

Chairman for the Committee. 



THE ISLES OF THE SEA 

(Concluded FROM Page 21) 

for her good American money, but she 
was helpless in her desire to protest, and 
at last, in amused silence, pocketed the 
money he had left her and began to 
retrace her steps. The second turn to 
the left, — no, to the right — A maze of 
low-browed houses seemed to encircle 
her; smiling, curious faces regarded her 
bewildered one. She turned now in 
clear panic to the right, glanced at her 
watch, saw it was four o'clock and told 
herself desperately that she should miss 
the boat. Her aunt would think that 
she had already returned to the vessel — 
that she wouldn't be missed until too 
late, left on this lonely, forsaken island 
with its chattering foreign tongue, and 
only a handful of change. 

She was hurrying on, crying a little, 
from sheer nervousness, going anywhere 
or nowhere, when a little way ahead, 
before a large stucco building, she saw 
an unbelievable sight — an automobile. 
Renewed hope quickened her lagging 
steps, set her fairly running; somebody 
with sense, she told herself, must be 
near that machine. Her veil awry, her 
trim pumps grey with dust, holding des- 
perately a basket of strawberries, she 
pushed forward to the steps of the hotel 
almost sobbing, "Can anybody here 
speak English?" Then she leaned back 
for support against the automobile of 
hope, telling herself that all her worry 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
xviii 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




PRY GRAPE 
JUICE 




Mudge Patent Canner 

A Household Necessity 

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PHILADELPHIA. PA. 



GOLDEN GATAWBA GRAPE 

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Mention where you saw our advertisement, and 
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RAE'S LUCCA OIL 

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SOLD IN BOTTLES AND TINS OF VARIOUS SIZES. 



,"J;nl!>il<uI!^^l>fi| 



S. RAE & COMPANY, 

LEGHORN, TUSCANY. ITALY 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
xix 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Electric Lustre 
StarchH ^ 

►NDERS JLJ 





Makes Shirt Waists, Skirts, 
Laces, Linens, Shirts, Collars, 
Cuffs, and all starched things 
look like NEW. 

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Sold by all Grocers 
Write us for FREE SAMPLE 

. „ ELECTRIC IXSTRE STARCH CO. 

O-nB Central St. Boston, Mass. 




Minute 
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Flavored 

The latest favorite among- delicious 
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Simply select the flavor you want, 
dissolve contents of package in pint 
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10 cts. a package. 

If your grocer hasn't it, send his 
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mail and Minute Cook Book— FREE. 

MINUTE TAPIOCA CO., 

16 West Main St., Orange, Mass. 



had turned her poor brain, for she was 
holding, as if she would never let it 
go, the hand of the man she was trying 
to forget. He seemed a trifle breath- 
less ; trim, brown — she remembered later 
that the dominant thought in her mind 
was how amazing clean he looked — tow- 
ering above the dingy, puny natives. 

''You," he said, "you!" Then in his 
old direct way, "Of course you came off 
the liner out there," indicating the black 
bulk lying amidstream high up out of 
the water. 

"I'm boarding her, too, and we haven't 
any time to lose." She nodded, — speech 
was as yet beyond her, — and was pres- 
ently aware that they were seated in the 
automobile, his luggage piled ahead of 
them, and that he was still holding her 
hand. There was the hurried transit 
through the rough blue water ; they were 
the last comers up the slippery staircase. 
The passengers crowded to the rails, 
eager for the last bit of sensation. They 
seemed to enter a stage, the chief actors 
in the final scene of a play. 

A rowboat filled with fruit was bob- 
bing up and down close to the big liner, 
while natives, whose brown, hard feet 
were balanced on the uncertain sides of 
their craft, were handing in their wares 
under the superintendence of the head 
steward. 

Marion's aunt met her with a pallid 
face. "Whatever became of you? I 
just found you weren't on board, and 
I've been frightened nearly to death — " 
She broke off suddenly, as Marion in- 
troduced her companion, and she looked 
in amazement at the transformation in 
her listless niece. This radiant, glowing 
girl, whoever could have worried about 
her health ! The man was coolly obliv- 
ious to the interested onlookers. "Just 
come out forward," he said quietly to 
the girl, "I want to talk to you." 
- She followed silently. What had she 
meant to do, when she met him ? Where 
was her carefully worded phraseology? 
It was out of her hands ; let him man- 
age for them both. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

XX 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





rink T^ure Hawaiian 
Alo*c Kineapple Juice 

UICo M, AtDrugfii5t5.Grocer3<^3odd Fountains 




^Aids 
jgestion 



Trade supplied through ragular channels. If you can't get Dole's, write Hawaiian Pineapple 
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CT^Nir^ US two NEW yearly Subscriptions at $1.00 each and we will re- 
►J't-'i ^ -L^ new your own subscription one year free, as a premium. 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Massachusetts 



Book of 800 Latest Styles 

The very latest ; all illustrated; best published. Also contains complete illustrated lessons in cutting and dressmaking; 
best published. BEST, LATEST PAPER PATTERNS, 5c EACH, half price, for they are just like and just as good as the 
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The lUinois Farmer & Farmer's Call 

<emI-monthly, big Woman's and Fashion departments. I will send you, post-paid, my big book of 800 latest styles illustrated; sell you for 5 
cents the pattern of any of the 800 different garments shown in my Style Book, or of any of the new style garments illustrated and described 
n every issue of the Illinois Farmer and Farmer's Call — this is good for three years; and the lUinois Farmer and Farmer's Call for 3 years— ^ 
{ years, remember — all for only 40 cents! Think of it! 72 issues of a big farm and home paper, with big woman's and fashion de= 
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Tnore than the 40 cents in buying patterns — all for only 40 cents! Of course, I make this offer to build my subscription list up to a certaij 
lumber, and as soon as that number is reached this offer will be at once withdrawn, hence send at once to be safe. If you send NOW yofe 
^ill not forget it. Address ^^^^ ^_ g^^^^^ 21 jackson Park Station, Chicago, lU 

I have been in business 27 years. The publisher of this paper knows I'm reliable. 




^^de3ymeAmer/canSa£ar/^efmmgCo, SOLD BY G/^0C£^S'-2^t m^ 51^ Boxes! 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
xxi 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



YALE F RUIT PRESS 

Nothing like it for making jel° 
lies, jams, grape juice, wine 
water ices, frappes ; also for 
lard, meats, jellies, stuff- 
ing sausages, etc. 

No woman has the strength 
to press fruit with her hands, 
besides without a press you 
lose fully one-half your fruit 
or meat juice and nearly all 
the flavor which only great 
pressure brings out. 

The YALE is light, strong, 
clamps instantly to any table 
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you put contents under more than 2000 pounds pressure. 
Double cylinder, easily cleaned, never wears out. 

In thl3e sizes— 2 quart $2.95 ; 4 quart $3.95 ; 8 quart, $6.95. 
At all dealers or shipped by us anywhere prepaid on receipt of price. 
Money back guarantee. 

Valuable Booklet of "Aunt Sally's Best Recipes" 
and catalog FREE. 

VICTOR M. GRAB & CO., 

Patentees and Sole Manufacturers 
1162 Ashland Block Chicago, 111. 




SAVE YOUR HANDS 

From grrimy pots and kettles, the DANDY KETTLE 

SCRAPER does the business. Mailed for 6c in stamps. 
STERLING SUPPLY CO., - NewtonviUe. Mass. 

"Pace -Maker" Fireless Cooker 
Settles Cooking Troubles 



Forever. Factory to You. 

No matter what you cook 
or how you cook it; in win- 
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says dinner will be ready ^"^ «^^ about Fireless 
when we det back." Cookers and their use. 

A postal will do. 

The Sheaff er-Marion Co., Washington, D. C. 




The vessel was moving smoothly, 
skirting the red-brown coast, the change- 
ful panorama was fading a trifle; out 
here with him, it was so strange. ''Tell 
me," she began, ''how did you happen 
to be just there when I needed you so?" 
Her voice broke. 

"Me? Oh, our firm sent me out; 
we're installing a plant there. I went 
right there from the mountains ; I've 
just finished." 

The wonderland was fading, the 
island drifted away, the lighthouse on 
its farthest point whirled swiftly, show- 
ing red, then green, lights. Against the 
yellow glow of the evening light two 
figures stood out sharply. A man doing 
self-inflicted penance, ten times around 
the deck before dinner, smiled sardonic- 
ally as he caught in passing the tense, 
eager voices : "A letter — it never 
came — " "Nothing matters, now, only 
this, why we — " Around once again, 
the onlooker glanced at the two on the 
forward deck, then turned away. "Who 
said this boat was bound for Naples?" 
he remarked, grimly, addressing the van- 
ishing lighthouse. "Not a bit of it; 
judging by those two, it's headed straight 
for Arcady." 



Conceited 



A well-known divine was preaching 
one morning on the subject of the great 
and the little things of creation. To 
illustrate his thought that nothing was 
too great or too little to be of interest 
to God he proceeded with these words : 

"The creator of this immense universe 
created also the most infinitesimal atom 
in it. The architect of these vast moun- 
tains fashioned also the tiniest thread of 
gold running through them. The God 
who made me made a daisy." 




Used by Leading Chefs and 



Eminent Teachers of Cookery. 



THE PALISADE MFG.CO. 353 CLINTON AVE, WEST HOBOKEN,N»J. 

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ADVERTISEMENTS 



Scientific Cooking 



Such as is taught in the Cooking School — and the kind that prevails in 
the Culinary Department of Hotels, Clubs, Institutions, Restaurants and 
Cafes, requires, not only the best of materials, but the most modern of 

Cooking Utensils and Apparatus 

As the recognized headquarters in New England for the most modern kitchen equipment, 
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Prices and. Estimates Furnished on Application 
Write for Catalogue 

HOPKINSON & HOLDEN '^ rsroN'ScrExT "^^ 



Summer School of Cookery 

AND VACATION OUTING COMBINED 




Mrs Hill's Summer Classes in Cookery at "TOPO PINO." South Chatham, New Hampshire 
WILL OPEN JULY 12. FOR THE EIGHTH SEASON 

•wn.*f®wi5°^**?f® I-eBSon: Clearing Consomme ; Chicken or Fish Mousse ; Planked Fish or Chicken with Garnishings ; Esrg Plant Fritters ; 
waoie Wtieat Bread ; Floradora Buns ; Macedoine in Tomato Jelly ; Mayonnaise Dressing ; Apricot Bavariose ; Banana'Parfait ; Angel Cake. 

In demonstration lectures, in class work, or at the home table, do you wish to be able to present new dishes without 
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do these things by doing them. 

t'or circular of terms and other information, apply in person or by letter to 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. "VosrorMAr^"' 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Trade Mark Registered 

Farwell & Rhines' 




Also invaluable Cereal Special- 
ties lor Invalids. Ask lor them 

At Leading Grocers, etc. 



We have an Attractive 
Proposition 

to make to those who will take sub- 
scriptions for 

THE BOSTON 

COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

Write us if you wish to canvass your 
town or if you wish to secure only a few 
names among your friends and acquaint- 
ances. Start the work at once and you 
will be surprised how easily you can earn 
ten, twenty or fifty dollars. 

Address 

SUBSCRIPTION DEPARTMENT 
Boston Cooking-School 

Magazine Co. 
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



DOMESTIC SCIENCE 

Hoine=Study Courses 

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children. For home- 
makers, teachers and for well-paid positions. 
"The Profession of Home-Making," 100-page handbook, 
FREE. Bulletins: "Free Hand Cooking on Scientific 
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Methods in Dietetics," 32 pp., ill., lo cents. 
American School of Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, III. 



Too Late! 

Mr. W. Holt- White's recent book, 
"The People's King," contains a little 
story of the late Edward VII of Eng- 
land, with a moral that grandparents 
might wisely ponder — the remarks of 
young people may be worth heeding — 
once in a great while. 

At a family luncheon at which three 
generations of the royal family were 
present, the king was interupted in his 
conversation by a small voice calling in- 
sistently : 

"Grandpapa ! Grandpapa !" 

For a time the king devoted himself 
to his conversation and his salad, re- 
gardless of the voice which kept calling, 
"Grandpapa !" At last compelled to pay 
attention to the interruption, the king 
uttered something about little boys who 
should be seen and not heard, and the 
rebuke silenced the prince. 

When the meal was over, the king 
turned to his little grandson, and said: 

"Now tell me what you want." 

"It is too late now, grandpapa." 

"Why is it too late?" 

"Because I only wanted to tell you 
there was a caterpillar on your lettuce." 



Dainty shirt waists, skirts and white 
dresses ; dainty underclothing and lin- 
gerie, add more than anything else to 
women's attractiveness in summer. 

Daintiness in all wash fabrics can be 
obtained by all women, by having all 
their starched things done up with Elec- 
tric Lustre Starch. It makes them look 
fresh, dainty and new. It is easily used, 
saves time and trouble and produces 
splendid results. All grocers sell it at 
ten cents the package. 




Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
xxiv 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



JUNKE.T 

TABLETS 




PUNKET 

bo all 
tocrasfons 



make the creams of such a rich, 
palatable quality, and exqui- 
sitely smooth, creamy 
texture, that the wedding 
feast is remembered with 
pleasure. 
Junket Tablets are sold by all 
grocers, or a trial package will 
be mailed post-paid for 10 cts. 
with the charming booklet. 

Junket Dainties f Free. 



Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, 

Box 2507 Little Falls. N. Y. 



Demonstration Lectures 
in Cooking 



SINGLE AND IN 
COURSES 



By Mrs. Janet M. Hill 

Editor Boston Coo k in g- S cho ol Magazine 

Topics for Single Demonstrations: 

Meat Substitutes and Left-Overs. 

Cheap Cuts of Meat Made Palatable. 

Daily Meals Considered Physiologically 
and Esthetically. 

Dishes for Home Entertaining. 

Sauces, Entrees and Salads. 

For Clubs, where cooking is inconvenient, 
a lecture on Pertinent Points in Domestic 
Science, followed by the preparation of a 
salad or articles on the chafing dish, has 
been prepared. 

For terms, dates, etc., address 

Mrs. Janet M. Hill, 372 Boylston Si. 
Boston, IHass. 

Care of Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



NEW "HYGIENIC" 

CENTRAL NEEDLE MACHINE 

Now on sale. See this wonderful invention. 
Our aiiencies sell them on easy terms. 




STANDARD SEWING MACHINES 
F. C. HENDERSON CO., BOSTON. MASS. 

Write today for illustrated booklet 
Shepard Norwell Co., Boston John Wanamaker, New York 
Sibley, Lindsay & Curr, Rochester John Wanamaker, Phlla. 
Joseph Home Co., Pittsburg The May Co., Cleveland 

L. S. Ayres & Co., Indianapolis Dev Bros. & Co., Syracuse 
Stlx.Baer & Fuller, St. Louis S.Kann Sons & Co., Washington 
J. L. Hudson Co., Detroit Wm. Hengerer Co., Buffalo 

Forbes & Wallace, Springfield E. S. Brown Co., Fall River 
Lion Dry Goods Co., Toledo Erie Dry Goods Co., Erie 

The Shepard Company, Providence 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 

XXV 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




Kornlet Pudding 
Tastes Like More 

That delicious flavory goodness in Kornlet 
makes the whole family want more of any 
dish prepared with it. Kornlet is eaten, 
enjoyed and easily digested by old or young, 
and used without fuss or trouble. 

Korrjlet 

is different from canned corn — it has the fresh, 
sweet taste of newly plucked ears, 
from fertile fields, and is, just the 
pulp of juicy kernels of green 
corn, with the outside hull removed 
by machines that make the Kornlet 
process perfect. Many ways of I 
using it— send now for booklet of 
prize recipes by housewives. 
THE HASEROT CANNERIES CO., I 
Cleveland, Ohio. 




Red Cedar Chest For June Brides 

Saves Cold Storage 
Charges. 

Is Moth Proof. 
Combines Beauty 

and Usefulness. 
This chest is made 
of delightful, fra- 
grant Southern Red 
Cedar — a true re- 
plica of a Flanders 
Treasure Chest. 

Beautifully polished, finished with or- 
namental Cedar handles and wide copper bands. 
Very Roomy. Protects furs and clothing against moths. 
No camohor required. Is dust and damp proof. MAKES 
UNIQUE BRIDAL GIFT. Direct from factory, freight charges 
prepaid— No dealers profit. Write for catalogue, Shows many 
•ther styles and gives prices, 

PIEDMONT RED CEDAR CHEST CO, stafe'sville!'N. C. 




Housewives ^^gls^Jretr Stepsaver 

Jn serving meals. One trip with Wheel Tray sets tahle. 
Another completely clears it. This table on wheelj moves 
easily anywhere you want it. Height .SI in. Removable 
oval trays, 23in,by28in. and21 in. by 2Hin., extraheavy ' 
Bteel. Sin. rubber tire wheels. Gloss black japan finish. 
Price$|Of express prepaid. $|2 to Pacific Coast. 
Write for circular and learn its convenience. 

Wheel-Tray Co., 435 G West 61st Place, Chicago 



Codfish or Halibut Steaks 

Use slices of codfish about an inch 
thick cut from the middle of a large 
fresh cod. Wipe the slices of fish care- 
fully with a cloth wrung out of cold 
water. Sprinkle the slices on both sides 
with salt and pepper, dip them in beaten 
tgg, then in flour. Heat a small quan- 
tity of fat, suet, lard or olive oil, in a 
frying pan, lay the slices of fish in this, 
and cook gently on one side until a rich 
golden-brown color, turn carefully, and 
brown the other side. It will require 
about fifteen minutes to cook a slice one 
inch thick. Serve with Tartare Sauce or 
Holbrooks' Worcestershire Sauce. 

"A garden is a lovesome thing, God wot ! 
Rose plot, 
Fringed pool, 
Ferned grot — 
The veriest school 
Of peace, and yet the fool 
Contends that God' is not — 
Not God ! in gardens ! when the eve is cool ? 
Nay, but I have a sign : 
'Tis very sure God walks in mine." 




The newest of the European confec- 
tions to be placed on the American mar- 
ket is a small cake about two inches 
square, called Frou Frou. They are 
made in Holland. They resemble some- 
what the nabisco, a widely advertised 
American biscuit, but differ from it in 
that there is a filling of a light, creamy 
substance, making frou frou virtually a 
cream sandwich, flavored with vanilla or 
other tasty way. They are put up in 
tins in the shape of a trunk with tray, 
the trunk decorated with Holland pic- 
tures, and can be appropriately served 
in the original package. They will 
doubtless become popular in tea rooms, 
for the confection is of both palate- and 
eye-pleasing kind. 



TANGLEFOOT, the Original Fly Papei 

FOR 25 YEARS THE STANDARD IN QUALITY. 
ALL OTHERS ARE IMITATIONS. 




Buy advertised' goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



May 1st, 1911, 
Dear Madam :~ 

Our offer of one mixed case 
of £4- 8 oz. jars of Porto Rican Brand 
Preserves, containing Guava Jelly, Grape 
Fruit Marmalade, Pineapple Marmalade, 
Mango Marmalade, Mango Jelly and Mango 
Chutney, the most luscious dainties ob- 
tainable, for $7.50 per case, transpor- 
tation paid is still in force. 

Our full page advertisement 
in the April issue of this magazine ex- 
plains fully. Send us your name at 
once 

Yours truly, 
Trenton, N.J. Fenimore & Co. 



Casserole— Premium for Seven Subscribers 

Long slow cooking, at a 
gentle heat, best conserves 
the nutritive elements of food 
and the flavors that render 
it most agreeable. The 
earthen Casserole makes this 
method possible. Then, too, 
the Casserole is the serving 
as w^ell as the cooking dish. 
The housekeeper who is 
desirous of setting a pleasing 
table without an undue ex- 
penditure of time or money 
will find a Casserole almost 
indispensable. 

'Pl^ r» ^1 '\Ug^ ri??m« ^^^ "°* "premium goods" but are made by one of the leading 

i nC l^aSScrOIcS YT C UllCr manufacturers of the country for their regular trade. The dish is 
a three-pint one, round, eight inches in diameter, fitted with two covers, (an earthenware cover for the oven 
and a nickel plated one for the table) and a nickel plated frame. It is such an outfit as retails for five or six dollars. 

OlYl* Off At* • Send us seven (7) new yearly subscriptions at $1 each, and we will send the dish, as premium 
VF Ul Vlilcr • for securing and sending us the subscriptions. The express charges are to be paid by the receiver. 

ADDRESS: 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston. Mass. 



=^ 




J 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
xxvii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 






Siead y 
CoJd 




MANY 



BALDWIN 



DRY 
AIR 



Refrigerators have been in constant use for over 35 
years and are still giving perfect satisfaction. A Bald- 
win will keep your food preserved in the best possible 
manner, because of their positive "one way" current 
of absolutely pure, cold, dry. air, moving swiftly around 
articles stored, and constantly cooling and purifying 
every square inch of the refrigerator. Baldwins are 
lined with "snow-white" opalite glass 7-16 inch thick; 
vitrified porcelain or .metal. Don't buy a "cheap" 
refrigerator — get a Baldwin. 

THE COLD, CLEAN KIND 
THE BALDWIN REFRIGERATOR CO. 

44 Lake Street, Burlington, Vermont 



Ask your dealer 
to show you one 
that bears this 
trade mark 



Write today for 
beautiful illus = 
trated catalogue 
showing: 150 styles. 



TT'^nfTr 




Crcsc 
Crystal 



Unlike other 

FARWELL 



AND DESSERT 
FOODS 
LivcR Troubles 



WATERTOWN. 



ample, write 

17 Y., U.S.A. 



Good Things to Eat 

Can be quickly and easily made with 

Fleischmann's Yeast 

Send for our new Cook Book and try some of the 
forty odd recipes that tell how to make baked goodies 



The Fleischmann Company 

701 Washington Street New York City 



LET US GET TOGETHER 
on a subject of vital importance to all 
of us — Our Daily Bread. 

We have a new recipe book contain- 
ing forty odd recipes, covering a dozen 
different kinds of bread and various 
other baked goods, best made with 
FLEISCHMANN'S YEAST. 
You may have a copy, free for the 
asking. 

THE FLEISCHMANN CO., 
701 Washington St. New York City. 



A fruit press is unequaled for making 
Jellies, Jams, Cider, Grape Juice, Fruit 
Ices and hundreds of other things. The 
press consists of a steel cylinder with 
convex steel bottom, which gives it' 
strength and facilitates the operation of 
pressing. It rests upon feet of mallea- 
ble iron, into which clamps may 
be affixed for attaching firmly 
to any table or handy 
place. The top of the 
cylinder is provided 
with malleable iron 
ears into which beam, 
also of malleable iron, 
is hinged. The pins 
which retain the beam 
are of malleable iron 
and chained to ears. 
The screw is provided 
with hand-wheel, to 
which a crank may be attached to exert 
leverage upon the wheel. At the end 
of the screw is attached a follow-head, 
fortified by malleable spider, which will 
withstand any necessary pressure ex- 
erted upon it. The colander, of steel, 
fitted within the cylinder, is provided 
with handles for the convenience of re- 
moving during the operation of pressing. 
The whole apparatus is finished with a 
heavy plate of tin, which will wear as 
long as the press itself. 




QT^NTF^ us two NEW yearly Subecriprions at 
^•■— '•'■ ^ -L-^ $1 .00 each and we will renew your own 
subscription one year free, as a premium. 

THE BOSTON COOKINGSCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
xxviii 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



You can buy 



SHELLED NUTS 

(Peannts, Walnuts, Almonds, etc.) 




of the wholesale dealers, if you will buy in 
quantities of not less than five pounds of a kind. 
Send for price list. 

We are also manufacturers of the better 
quality of 

FLAVORING EXTRACTS 

n • ''"'^• 

^yk Vanilla $1.23 

^MJ^H Lemon .73 

jBHli Orange 1.00 

Per K Pt. 

Rose 63 

Almond .30 

Pistachio .90 

The Three Millers Company 

34-38 Chardon St. . . Boston 





The Beauty 
and Brightness 

Of Silverware and all 
fine metals are re- 
markably increased — 
when cleaned and polished with 

Until you have tried this famous Silver 
Polish, you will never know how beautiful 
your Silver may be made to look, and the 
**beauty" of it is — it does the work in 
half the time of other polishes without 
scratching or zvearing. Refuse substi- 
tutes. Send address for 

FREE SAMPLE 

Or 15c. in stamps for full sized box post-paid. 

The Electro Silicon Co., 30 Cliff Street, New York. 

Sold by Grocers and Druggists Every^vhere. 



Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-dish Dainties 

By Mrs. JANET McKENZIE HILL. Editor The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 

A New and Revised Edition. 
Profusely Illustrated. 




230 pa^es. 



Price, $1.50 



SALADS and chafing-dish dainties are destined to receive in the 
future more attention from the progressive housekeeper than has as 
yet been accorded to them. In the past their composition and con- 
sumption has been left chiefly to that portion of the community " who 
cook to please themselves." But since women have become anxious 
to compete with men in every walk of life, they, too, are desirous to 
become adepts in tossing up an appetizing salad or in stirring a 
creamy rarebit. The author has aimed to make it the most practical and 
reliable treatise on these fascinating branches of the culinary art that has 
yet been published. Due attention has been given to the a b c of the subjects, and great care 
exercised to meet the actual needs of those who wash to cultivate a taste for palatable and whole- 
some dishes, or to cater to the vagaries of the most capricious appetites. The illustrations are 
designed to accentuate, or make plain, a few of the artistic effects that may be produced by 
various groupings or combinations of simple and inexpensive materials. 

We will mail "Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-Dish Dainties," postpaid, on receipt 
of price, $ 1 .50, or as a premium for three new yearly subscriptions to the mageizine. 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 

BOSTON. MASS. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
xxix 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



X5»s€x3«eexxj««xx5ex3«^^ 




Premiums for New Subscriptions 



The following premiums will be given to present subscribers only, in payment 
for their efforts in securing and sending to us new yearly subscriptions at 
^i.oo each. No premium is given with a subscription or for a renewal. 




AMERICAN KITCHEN I^RIEND SET 

As illustrated. Sent for three new subscriptions. 
Express to be paid by receiver. 



FOR ONE NEW SUBSCRIPTION 
we will send postpaid a 3-pint 

ICE CREAM MOLD 

of the very best quality. 



FOR ONE NEW SUBSCRIPTION 
we will send postpaid a 

GOLDEN-ROD CAKE PAN 

(Waldorf Triangle pan) of the very best quality. 



A SPATULA 

There are few utensils more useful 
than a spatula. All professional cooks 
use them, and where once used they be- 
come a necessity. We will send an eight- 
inch one of the best make, postpaid, for 
one new subscription. 




CHARLOTTE 



FOR 

TWO 

NEW 

Subscrip- 

t i o n s we 

will send, 

postpaid, a 

set of six 

individual 

RUSSE MOLDS 



FOR TWO 
NEW Sub- 
scriptions we 
will send, 
postpaid, a 
set of eight 
individual 

ALUMINUM 
TIMBALE MOLDS 

These are very popular. 





SEND US TWO NEW SUBSCRIPTIONS AND WE WILL RENEW YOUR OWN 
SUBSCRIPTION FOR ONE YEAR AS PREMIUM 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine, Boston, Mass. 




Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




UL^arie Antoinette, the ill-fated queen, 

centre of the most brilliant court in Europe, 

hurled from her throne by the rude hand of 

revolution, and passing, 'mid the derisive roar of 

the mob, to her tragic death upon the guillotine — 

Marie Antoinette, in all her sad and fateful story, is 

only one of the great figures that throng the pages of 

MUHLBACH'S 
HISTORICAL ROMANCES 

Twenty Thrilling Tales" 

Here, also, we meet Frederick the Great, the eccentric Prussian, who, 
though he was endeared to his subjects as Old Fritz," detested things 
German, always spoke French, and was not only the greatest general of his 
century, but played the flute like a master; Andreas Hofer, the Tyrolese 
patriot, who in his mountain passes with his little army for years defied the French 
and Bavarian forces sent to crush him; Napoleon (The ** Little Corporal,") 
commanding victorious hosts and bidding pathetic farewell to the Old Guard — the 
Old Guard that could die but never surrender. Around such great historical person- 
ages hundreds of minor characters play their parts in these absorbing dramas. 

VIVID, VIGOROUS, INSTRUCTIVE. 

These are historical romances in a real sense — strong, vivid 
stories full of action, conflict, and constantly sustained interest. They 
have aroused more attention and been the subject of more talk than any 
other historical novels written since the elder Dumas laid down the pen. 
The deeds and the people with which they deal are such that most persons 
of ordinary culture are somewhat ashamed to be ignorant of them. 
" Human interest" always prevails in these volumes and has given them 
their steadfast popularity. 



TITLES OF THE 

20 VOLUMES 

Napoleon and the Queen of Prussia 

The Empress Josephine 

Napoleon and Bluecher 

Queen Hortense 

Marie Antoinette and Her Son 

Prince Eugene and His Times 

The Daughter of an Empress 

Joseph II. and His Court 

Frederick the Great and His Court 

Berlin and Sans-Souci 

Frederick the Great and His Family 

Goethe and Schiller 

The Merchant of Berlin 

Louise of Prussia and Her Times 

Old Fritz and the New Era 

Andreas Hofer 

Mohammed AM and His House 

Henry VIII. and Catherine Parr 

Youth of the Great Elector 

Reign of the Great Elector 

The books are printed upon 
extra quality of paper from 
easy-to-read type, are attract- 
ively illustrated and beautifully 
bound. Titles and ornaments 
are stamped in gold on the 
back. The size of the volumes 
is Sy^-x.7%, inches. 



50% 



REDUCTION 
IN PRICE 



C.S.M. 
6-11 



This is the complete twenty- volume (20 vol.) edition, fresh 
sets of which with a handsome new back-stamp in gold design 
have just come from the binders. The books are illustrated 
by 40 handsome photogravures. We are offering the • xhe University 
entire set at the special reduced price of $19.50. / Society 



Coupon 



If you are satis 
you pay us 
upon accept 
after $2. 00 per 
the purchase 
been paid. If 




New York 



as $40.00 — remember our price 

to act. Send in the coupon to-day. 



only $19.50. Now is the time 



THE UNIVERSITY SOCIETY 

44-60 E. 23rd St., New York 




fied with the books, 

only $1.00 down 

ance and there- / ^"'^ ™^y ^^"'^ ™^ f^"" ^nspec- 

month until / tion. charges prepaid, a set of 

price has / muehlbach's histori- 

not notify / CAL romances. 20 vols.. bound 

us and the books may be returned at our 
expense. You will have incurred no 
obligation whatever. These books have 
delighted thousands at prices as high 



cloth. After examination, if 
decide to keep it, I shall pay you SI. 00 
on acceptance and S200 a month there- 
after unul S19. 50 has been paid. If not, 
1 shall notify you, so that you may arrange 
for its return at no expense to me whatever. 



Name 

Address .. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 





Rings, Brooches — Jewelry of almost all kinds can be 
cleaned with Ivory Soap and lukewarm water. 



Take, for example, the silver-mesh 
purses, so popular nowadays; an occa- 
sional bath in Ivory Soap suds will im- 
prove their appearance wonderfully. 

If the purse is lined, and the lining 
is of silk, it need not be removed. If 
the lining is of kid, detach it if possi- 
ble. If that cannot be done, pull it 
inside out and with a clean, soft cloth, 



apply Ivory Soap Paste,* to the soiled 
parts, using no water, and removing the 
paste with another clean, soft cloth. 

Then, with a stiff brush (a nail 
brush, or an old tooth brush will do) 
apply Ivory Soap suds to the meshes. 
Rub vigorously, changing the water 
as often as necessary. Rinse in clear 
water. Dry in the sun. 



Ivory Soap can be used for any number of purposes for which 
ordinary soaps cannot (and should not) be used. 

Please make a note of that fact; and use it whenever the question 
**How shall I clean it?" confronts you. 

Ivory Soap ....... 99''^o Per Cent. Pure 

"^ Directions for making Ivory Soap Paste will be found on the inside of every Ivory Soap wrapper. 
The proper proportions, are : Half a cake of Ivory Soap (small size) to a quart of water. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



/ 




GOOD Cocoa is the best beverage 
known to modern authorities on food and 
drink, nourishing, strengthening and a 
valuable aid to digestion. 

There is, however, a wide range in 
the Quality of cocoas. 

Lowney^s cocoa is made of the 
choicest cocoa beans without ''treat- 
ments" or adulteration, and 
in a manner that insures 
the purest and best 
product possible. 

It is the best cocoa 
made. 

The Loroney^ Cook Book 
421 pages, $1.25. At 
all hook sellers 

The Walter M. 
^ Lowney Co. 
Boston 

Cocoa-Chocolate 
Chocolate Bonbons 




,>3 



J 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

i 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

Vol. XVI JUNE-JULY, 1911 No. 1 

CONTENTS FOR JUNE-JULY 

PAGE 

MENUS FOR PIAZZA LUNCHEONS 1 

THE SARDINE OF PASSAMAQUODDY 

. . . . Grace Agnes Thompson and May Penery Martin, 111. 3 

LITTLE HAPPINESSES Kate Gannett Wells 8 

A MODERN MISSIONARY Ellen H. Richards 10 

JUNE Lalia Mitchell 12 

TIME AND CLARISSA Alix Thorn 13 

GRANDMOTHER'S PARLOR .... Mrs. J. W. Riddell 16 

SONG Helen Coale Crew 19 

THE ISLES OF THE SEA Helen Forrest 19 

EDITORIALS 22 

SEASONABLE RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone engravings 

of prepared dishes) Janet M.Hill 25 

MENUS, FOR A WEEK IN JUNE .... « - - 34 

" u u (< u JULY '* an 3^ 

" JUNE WEDDINGS AND SCHOOL SPREADS 

Janet M. Hill 36 

MENU SERVED TO COL. ROOSEVELT AND PARTY . 37 

CONCERNING OUR SEASONABLE RECIPES, Janet M. Hill 38 

SUMMER SCHOOLS 40 

LESSONS IN ELEMENTARY COOKING, Mary Chandler Jones 41 

NEW IDEAS ABOUT CHEESE .... Alice E. Whitaker 43 
A PEEP INTO THE HOME MANAGER'S ACCOUNT 

BOOKS Lillian S. Loveland 45 

STRANGE FOODS WE MAY EAT . . W. T. Walsh 47 

THE ART OF THE FLATIRON .... Alice Bergman 49 

KITCHEN VS. KITCHENETTE ...... E. Roberts 49 

A CAFETERIA SUPPER Carrie Ashton Johnson 50 

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 51 

Bouquets in Old-time Fashion — Fruit Punch — Saving from Table Linen — 
Completing the Garden — The Summer Dining-room — A Wedding of Sim- 
plicity — A Garden Plea. 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 55 

NEW BOOKS XIV 

MISCELLANEOUS xx 



$1.00 A YEAR Published Teo Times a Year lOc. A COPY 

Four Years' Subscription, $3.00 

Entered at Boston post«office as second-class matter. Copyright, 1911, by 

THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY 
372 BOYLSTON STREET BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

Please Renew on Receipt of the Colored Blank Enclosed for that Purpose 

ii 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





Better Patronize your Grocer 
than your Doctor 




Nine-tenths of all human ills 
start from stomach trouble. 
Lard-cooked food, greasy and indi- 
gestible, is the cause of most stomach 
troubles. The remedy is in the hands of 
your cook — not your doctor. 

Cottolene is a vegetable-oil cooking fat that is far 
superior to lard, butter or any other fat for frying 
and shortening. 

Cottolene is pure in its source; it comes from the cotton 
fields of the Sunny South, and is made from the choicest of 
pure refined cotton oil. 

Cottolene is manufactured in a cleanly manner, amid the 
most favorable sanitary surroundings. 

Cottolene is packed in air-tight, friction-top pails to insure its freshness 
and prevent it from absorbing dust and odors of fhe grocery. We authorize 
your grocer to refund your money if Cottolene is found to be other than fresh 
and satisfactory. 

Cottolene makes healthful food, and food which any stomach can digest. 
It is worth more per pail than lard or any imitation, because — being richer — 
it will go one-third farther and is therefore most economical. 

From Cottonfield to Kitchen --Human Hands Never Touch 
the Oil from which Cottolene is made. 

Made only by THE N. K. FAIRBANK COMPANY 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE BEST EXTRACTS 
THE, WORLD PRODUCES 




Ask your grocer 
for SLADE'S 
and refuse infe- 
rior substitutes 



S LA D E'S 

Flavoring Extracts 
like Slade's Spices 

ARE IN A CLASS BY THEMSELVES 



D. 6 L. SLADE CO. 

BOSTON 




We teach you how 
to make Candy 

by professional methods. You can easily learn tn make the 
most delicious candy. Our Home Candy Making Outfit n- 
cludes a candy thern.ometer, recipes, etc., that insures 
success. 

We teach you how to make French bonbons, nougat, 
chocolate creams and all the finest candies. Many women 
whom we have taught make candy to sell. 

Make Your Own Candy 

It Is much cheaper, purer and more delicious than any 
candy you can buy. 

WRITE FOR FREE BOOKLET 

that explains our system of teaching candy making at home. 

THE HOME CANDY MAKERS 

302 Bar Street, Canton, Ohio 



INDEX FOR JUNE-JULY page 

A Cafeteria Supper 50 

A Modern Missionary 10 

A Peep into the Home Manager's Ac- 
count Books 45 

Concerning Our Seasonable Recipes . . 38 

Editorials 22 

Grandmother's Parlor 16 

Home Ideas and Economies 51 

June 12 

Kitchen vs. Kitchenette 49 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking .... 41 

Little Happinesses 8 

Menu Served to Col. Roosevelt .... 37 

Menus for Piazza Luncheons 1 

Menus for Week in June 34 

Menus for Week in July 35 

Menus for June Weddings and School 

Spreads 36 

New Ideas about Cheese 43 

Song 19 

Summer Schools 40 

Strange Foods We May Eat 47 

The Art of the Flatiron 49 

The Isles of the Sea 19 

The Sardine of Passamaquoddy .... 3 

Time and Clarissa 13 

Seasonable Recipes : 

Bread, Date (111.) 28 

Cabbage, Lady (111.) 26 

Cake, White Fruit (111.) '. 33 

Chicken, Fritot of 29 

Eggs, with Cheese Sauce and Aspara- 
gus (111.) 27 

Gingerbread, Soft 33 

Halibut, Fillets of, with Asparagus 

Tips 25 

Macedoine, Mold of Vegetable, with 

Spinach (111.) 28 

Pop Overs, with Sugared Straw- 
berries (111.) 32 

Quenelles, Vol-au-Vent of Salmon " . 27 

Quenelles, Veal, with Green Peas (111.) 27 

Rolls, Souffle for Luncheon 31 

Salad, Mexican, Tomato 31 

Sandwiches, Date Bread, Cream Cheese 

and Lettuce (111.) 28 

Strawberries in Swedish Timbale 

Cases (111.) 31 

Stuffing, Bread or Sausage 33 

Sweetbreads, Glazed, with Canned 

Mushrooms 25 

Souffles, Individual, Asparagus (111.) 30 

Tartlets, with Peas and Egg (111.) . 29 



Queries and Answers : 

Chicken en Casserole 

Ice Cream, Strawberry, with Sauce 
Jam or Marmalade, Strawberry . 

Mayonnaise, Aspic 

Preserves, Strawberry 

Tarts, Strawberry 



56 

55 
56 
55 
56 

55 



Bread, Materials for Four Loaves of xii 
Cake, Angel, Chocolate, Sponge, Sun- 
shine xii 

Coffee, Recipe for xii 

Dishes Prepared on Saturday for 

Sunday .• • • ^ 

Meringue, Cause of Trouble With . x 

Steak, Planked Sirloin x 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
iv 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



To make sure canned goods 
are pure, you must do up 
your own 

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The cost of the book is trifling compared with its great 
value — only 50 cents, in cloth. By mail ; we pay postage. 

For hot weather you'll need 
Hot Weather Dishes'' 



4i 



by Mrs. Rorer. You will be surprised at the great variety of 
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pleasure. Cloth 50 cents ; we pay postage. 

ARNOLD & COMPANY, PHILADELPHIA 
420 Library Street 



Mrs. Rorer's Ne^ Cook Book, $2.00 
Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substitutes, $1.50 
Cakes, Icings and Fillings, 50 cents 



Made 0-ver Dishes, 50 cents 

Neiv Salads, 50 cents 

My Best 250 Recipes, 50 cents 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Books on Household Economics 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE presents the fol- 
lowing as a list of representative works on househol.d economics. Any 
of the books will be sent postpaid on receipt of price. 

With an order amounting to v$5 or more we include a year's subscription 
to THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE (price $1). The 
MAGAZINE must be sent, however, to a new subscriber. 

The books will be sent as premiums for securing new subscriptions to 
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE as follows: any book 
listed at not more than fifty cents will be sent postpaid to a present sub- 
scriber on receipt of one new yearly subscription at $1 ; for two subscrip- 
tions we will send postpaid any v$rbook; for three subscriptions any $L50 
book; and so on in like ratio. 

Special rates will be made to schools, clubs and persons wishing a num- 
ber of books. Write for quotation on the list of books you wish. 

American Salad Book. M. DeLoup . $L00 

Art of Home Cand^-making (with thermometer, dipping wire, etc.) 3.00 

Art of Right Living. Richards .50 

Baby, The. A book for mothers and nurses. D. R. Brown, M.D. . 1.00 

Blue Grass Cook Book. Minnie C. Fox . 2.00 

Book of Good Manners. Kingsland -1.50 

Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln 2.00 

Boston Cooking School Cook Book. Fannie M. Farmer . . 2.00 

Bread and Bread-making. Mrs. Rorer .50 

Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott .50 

Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer ' .50 

Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer .50 

Care and Feeding of Children. L. E. Holt, M.D 75 

Care of a Child in Health. N. Oppenheim 1.25 

Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln .... .60 

Century Cook Book. Mary Roland . . . . . . . . 2.00 

Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn . . . . . . . 1.50 

Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu Williams 1.50 

Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning. Richards and Elliot ... 1.00 

Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill 75 

Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Cost of Cleanness. Richards « . 1.00 

Cost of Food. Richards LOO 

Cost of Living. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Shelter. Richards 1.00 

Dainties. Mrs. Rorer .35 

Desserts — One Hundred Recipes. By Fillipini .30 

Diet in Relation to Age and Activity. Sir Henry Thompson LOO 

Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell 3.00 

Dictionary of Foods and CuHnary Encyclopaedia. Senn . • . . LOO 

Economics of Modern Cookery. M. M. Mollock LOO 

Eggs — One Hundred Recipes. Fillipini .30 

Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer L50 

Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed LOO 

First Lessons in Food and Diet .30 

Fish — One Hundred Recipes for Cooking Fish. Fillipini . .30 



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ADVERTISEMENTS 



First Principles of Nursing. Anne R. Manning 1.00 

Food and Cookery for the Sick and Convalescent. Fannie M. Farmer 1.50 

Food and Dietaries. R. W. Burnett, M.D 1.50 

Food and its Functions. James Knight 1.00 

Food in Health and Disease. I. B. Yeo, M.D 2.50 

Food Materials and their Adulterations. Richards . .. . . 1.00 

Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes for Meatless Dishes). Sharpe 2.00 

Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 4.00 

Handbook of Hospitality for Town and Country. Florence H. Hall 1.50 

Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary A. Boland .... 2.00 

Healthful Farm House, The. Helen Dodd 60 

Home Economics. Maria Parloa 1.50 

Home Economics Movement .75 

Home Nursing. Harrison 1.00 

Home Problems from a New Standpoint . . . . . 1.00 

Home Sanitation. Richards and Talbot .25 

Home Science Cook Book. Anna Barrows and Mary J. Lincoln . 1.00 

Hostess of Today. Linda Hull Earned 1.50 

Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer .50 

Household Economics. Helen Campbell . . . . . . 1.50 

Household Science. Juniata L. Shepperd 1.75 

How to Cook Fish. Olive Green 1.00 

How to Cook for the Sick and Convalescent. H. V. Sachse . . 1.00 

How to Feed Children. Louise E. Hogan . . . . . . 1.00 

International Cook Book. Fillipini 4.80 

Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50 

Laundry Manual. Balderston and Limerick .50 

Laundry Work. Juniata L. Shepperd ....... .60 

Louis' Salad and Chafing Dishes. Muckensturm .50 

Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.40 

Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer .50 

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. Mrs. Rorer .35 

Menu Book and Register of Dishes. Senn 2.50 

My best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer . . '. .50 

Old Time Recipes for Home Made Wines. Helen S. Wright . . 1.50 

One Woman's Work for Farm Women .50 

Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs. Janet M. Hill .... 2.00 
Practical, Sanitary, and Economic Cooking. Mary Hinman Abel . .40 

Principles of Home Decoration. Candace Wheeler . . . .1.80 

Register of Foods 1.00 

Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book 2.00 

Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill . 1.50 

Sanitation in Daily Life. Richards .60 

Spirit of Cookery. J. L. W. Thudichum ...... 2.50 

Sunday Night Suppers. Christine Terhune Herrick .... 1.00 

The Up-to-date Waitress. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

The Woman who Spends. Bertha J. Richardson 1.00 

Till the Doctor Comes, and How to Help Him 1.00 

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substitutes. Mrs. Rorer . . . 1.50 

Vegetarian Cookery. A. G. Payne .50 

With a Saucepan Over the Sea. Adelaide Keen 1.50 

ADDRESS AT.L ORDERS 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., BOSTON, MASS. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

vii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



*^one Genuine 



S- "An, =. 

^ <^Rmour& CO 







Hot Weather Helps 
For the Cook 



Here are some hints that will help the 
housewife when days are hot and every 
hour spent in the kitchen a burden. 

Get a jar of Armour's Extract of Beef. 
Learn how to use it in meat dishes, soups 
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the flavor. 

The left-over meat that your family 
would scorn served without embellish- 
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when accompanied with ^ rich gravy 
made from Armour's Extract of Beef. 



A cup of hot soup will redeem a cold 
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bined result in the delicious iced bouillon 
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Armour's Extract of Beef is an econo- 
my and luxury combined. 

Four times as strong as ordinary beef 
extracts — it goes four times as far. 



99 



Send for Our Excellent Cook Book 
"Popular Recipes 

It not only tells you how to use Armour's Extract of Beef in innumer- 
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Save the cap or the certificate under the cap, from each jar of Armour's 
Extract of Beef you buy. Send it to us with ten cents and we will give you 
a beautiful silver tea, bouillon or after-dinner coffee spoon or butter spreader 
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Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
viii 



Menus for Garden Parties 



I 

Lettuce, Bread-and-Sauce Tartare Sandwiches 

Bread-and-Sardine Sandwiches 

Hot Coffee 

Lemon Sherbet 

Macaroons 

II 

JelHed Bouillon in Cups 

Bread-and-Chopped Tongue Sandwiches 

Olives. Salted Nuts 

Pineapple Juice Frappe 

Mints. Candied Ginger Root 

III 

Jellied Macedoine of Vegetables in Tomatoes 

Graham and White Bread Sandwiches 

Little Cakes 

Grape Juice Lemonade 

Jellied Chicken Bi^Dth in Cups 

Lobster Salad 

Parker House Rolls 

Raspberry Sherbet 



Chicken Salad in Chou-Paste Cases 
Olives. Salted Nuts 

Sponge Cake 
Ginger Ale, Frappe 



The 

Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



Vol. XVI 



AUGUST-SEPTEMBER, 1911 



No. 2 



Colonial Chairs 



By Mary H. Northend 



IN early Colonial times, it was not 
customary to have more than two 
or three chairs in a house. Our 
people followed the English custom of 
their day, and sat upon stools, or upon 
benches, which they called ''forms," and 
which presently developed into the high- 
backed settles. 

The middle of the seventeenth cent- 
ury saw chairs come into more common 
use. They were of strong and solid 
frame, with seat and back of durable 
leather. The legs and stretchers were 
often plain, but sometimes both legs 
and back posts were turned. 

The "slat-back" chair was the kind 
most commonly in use from 1700 to 
1750. The number of slats in the back 
varied from two to five ; the shape varied 
also ; and one firm in Pennsylvania made 
"'slat-back" chairs in which the slats were 
curved, to fit the figure and furnish a 
more comfortable support to the back. 
Benjamin Franklin fixed one of these 
arm-chairs upon rockers, and so invented 
the first American rocking-chair, and set 
a fashion which has never been permit- 
ted to pass away. The very earliest 
style of rocking-chair, which did not 




WINDSOR OF 1820 



59 



60 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




EARLY CHIPPENDALE 

much antedate our Revolutionary War, 
had rockers that projected as far in 
front as they did behind, and may be 
known by this pecuharity, since manu- 
facturers of later styles soon found and 
remedied this defect. 

Contemporaneous with the "slat-back," 
but never equaling it in public favor, 
was the ''banister back" chair. This 
belongs to the period from 1710 to 1720. 
Its seat is of rush, as was true of most 
"banister" chairs. The "fiddleback" 
Queen Anne belongs to the same period. 

The Dutch chair was in use about 
1750, a little later than the "slat-back" 
and the "banister-back," but still con- 
temporaneous. The characteristic Dutch 
splat was sometimes severely plain and 
sometimes pierced and curiously carved. 



By this time, easy chairs formed a 
part of the ordinary bedroom furniture, 
and were very cosy for use in the living- 
room, as the high back and sides kept 
off the draught in a room heated only 
by the fireplace. Owing to the amount 
of material uused in stuffing and cover- 
ing, the cost of these chairs was un- 
usually high. Inventories set their value 
at from one pound to ten, according to 
the style and the fabric used in uphol- 
stering. A type in vogue during the first 
half of the eighteenth century is the 
well-known Windsor chair. This style 
originated in Philadelphia about the year 
1730, and was said to derive its name 
from the English town of that name. 
The story goes that the reigning George 
of that time, who must have been the 
second of his name, saw in a shepherd's 
cottage a chair of this pattern. He 
bought it, and had others made after the 
same style, thus setting a kingly fashion. 




LATER CHIPPENDALE 



COLONIAL CHAIRS 



61 



'-■^^Zjt,^- 




by the fact that for the first time Eng- 
Hsh cabinet-makers pubHshed books of 
furniture designs, which were copied by 
the best artisans on this side of the 
water. Chippendale issued his "Gentle- 
man's and Cabinet-Maker's Directory" 
in 1754, and a smaller work of similar 
nature appeared the year before. Hep- 
plewhite brought out his book of de- 
signs in 1789; and Sheraton published a 
similar collection in 1791. These three 
names lead in production of chairs, al- 
though some fine designs were also pub- 
lished in 1765 by Robert Mainwaring 
and by Ince and Mayhew ; and in 1 77Z 
the brothers, Adam, followed their ex- 
ample. 

Of all these names, that of Chippen- 
dale easily leads, and was considered 



*%s#^ 



MARTHA WASHINGTON 

I know not whether he had his chairs 
painted green, but the Philadelphia 
manufacturer who introduced the type 
into our own country certainly did so, 
although few have kept their original 
coloring. 

Windsor chairs continued to be made 
and sold far into the Nineteenth Cent- 
ury. Having so long a season of popu- 
larity, they came to exist under various 
patterns, as ''fan-backs," ''comb-backs," 
and even Windsor rockers. The earlier 
varieties can easily be distinguished from 
the later, by their having only three 
"rungs," but rockers did not come into 
general use before the Revolution, while 
many of the three-rung chairs belong to 
a date prior to 1740. 

About the middle of the eighteenth 
century, a great and important change 
befell cabinet-making. This change, 
which affected chairs even more than it 
did other furniture, was brought about 




TURNED WORK, 1680 



62 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




HEPPLEWHITE 

supreme authority for thirty years. A 
chair seems to have been his favorite 
piece of furniture ; and for its design, he 
blended the finest points to be found in 
the French, the Dutch, and the Chinese 
patterns. The result was a masterpiece, 
in which we have some of Chippendale's 
best points, as shown by the broad seat, 
the bow-shaped top rail, the arms with 
their well-known curve ending in scroll 
work, the absence of stretchers, the or- 
namentation confined to the front legs, 
while the back legs are straight and plain, 
after the fashion of the Chinese. The 
splat back and bandy legs are copied 
from the Dutch, but the ornamentations 
of the splat is modified from Gothic 
forms. The full curve of the bandy leg 
terminates in the ball-and-claw foot, 
which was so commonly used by Chip- 
pendale and his imitators, although his 



published book contains not one ex?- 
ample of this style. 

Another illustration shows the same 
characteristic of back and seat, com- 
bined with the square Chinese legs which 
he so often used. Much of his work 
was done in mahogany, which was the 
favorite wood in his time. His skill was 
displayed in wonderful carving, derived 
from varied sources, but resolved by his 
taste into one harmonious whole. The 
effect is so perfect that his furniture 
needs no further enrichment by inlay or 
painting. Not only are his chairs truly 
serviceable, but the workmanship and 
carving are complete in rich effect and 
beauty of detail. The ornament on the 
cabinet legs and frames is as delicate as 
that in the backs, while the proportions 
of both are equally well balanced. 

\\'hen Hepplewhite issued his book 




LATE SHERATON 



SHOPPING AND MARKETING IN RUSSIA 



63 



of designs, in 1789, his light and attrac- 
tive patterns quickly caught the popular 
fancy. Less strong and durable than 
those of Chippendale, they had beauty 
of form and wealth of ornament, as 
Hepplewhite used not only carving of 
the most delicate and exquisite descrip- 
tion but also inlay and painting, and he 
introduced japanning, after the style of 
Vernis-Martin work. 

A typical Hepplewhite chair is shown 
in one of our illustrations, with its 
shield-shaped back, adorned with carv- 
ings of feathers. These three feathers, 
representing the crest of the Prince of 
Wales, were much in evidence during 
the illness of George III. Hepplewhite 
must himself have belonged to the 
Prince's party, and the movement in 
favor of this party must have been im- 
mensely popular, to judge from the 
frequency of the feather ornament in 
the works of both Hepplewhite and 
Sheraton. The shield-shaped back is 
one of the distinguishing marks of a 
Hepplewhite chair, although he some- 
times adopted those that were oval, 
heart-shaped, or even square. They are 
very delicate and graceful, and those 
that did not show the three feathers 



were decorated with carved drapery, 
with wheat-ears, or with bell-flower. 
Haircloth had now come into use for 
covering the seats, and in many speci- 
mens w^e find the edges finished with 
brass-headed nails. 

The Sheraton chair is of the design 
sometimes called the ''Martha Washing- 
ton easy chair," because such a chair 
was owned at Mount Vernon. The 
general trend of public fancy was now 
toward light and elegant forms, with 
very showy decorations. Sheraton ex- 
hausted other forms of ornament, and 
then indulged his fancy for brilliant 
coloring in the most gorgeous painted 
decoration, mixing it with both inlay 
and carving. He then passed on to 
white and gold, in French style, and 
finally to the brass inlay of Napoleon's 
day. Cane work was again used for 
seats, and varied by coverings of needle- 
work, of morocco, or striped and varie- 
gated horse-hair, of damasks and fine 
printed silks, as Dame Fashion decreed. 
The curved piece, which Sheraton in- 
troduced about 1800, remained the 
favorite chair-pattern for a century, al- 
though it lost the brass mounts which 
he intended. 



Shopping and Marketing in Russia 

By Mary Gilbert 



AMBITIOUS though a Russian 
merchant may be, he never 
dreams of enlarging his shop. 
With the acquisition of capital, he opens 
another place of business, until he may 
own a dozen small shops of similar 
nature scattered about in different parts 
of the city. 

As few buildings rise above a height 
of three stories, the style of architecture 
alone would doom the great department 
store, but high-born Russian ladies are 
far too indolent to let walking play much 
part in their lives. No great stores with 



leagues of aisles for them, but cosy little 
shops, where a dozen steps will take one 
to the farther end. Very few of them 
occupy any space upstairs — the ground 
floor alone is devoted to business, while 
the space in the story or two above is 
utilized for dwelling apartments. 

This does not mean, however, that the 
selection the shops ofifer one is small. 
They specialize so closely that each 
carries an excellent line of the style of 
goods it elects to handle. 

The delivery system is still in its in- 
fancy, for every Russian lady has her 



64 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




AT FIRST SIGHT AIOSCOW APPEARS TO BE A CITY OF CHURCHES 




MARKET SCENE AT RIGA 



SHOPPING AND MARKETING IN RUSSIA 



es 



carriage, and never thinks of going 
abroad without it. If you request to 
have goods sent, the clerk will always 
assent, although, perhaps, with a look of 
surprise at the idea of your being a-foot. 

By-and-bye a peasant boy saunters 
leisurely up to your door, carrying your 
purchases in a basket on his head. 
Human labor is far too cheap in Russia 
to be rivaled by horses or electricity. 

A very limited knowledge of Russian 
enables one to shop in comfort, for no 
native ever smiles at one's errors. 
French or German is spoken in most of 
the shops, the former, as a rule, indif- 
ferently, the latter well. Beware, how- 
ever of the clerk who speaks English, 
unless you enjoy seeing a fellow creature 
entangled in the meshes of our intricate 
language. 

The higher class Russians learn Eng- 
lish in the nursery, and speak it re- 
markably well. The merchants' children 
seldom learn more than German, devot- 
ing themselves to French and English in 
later years, as they grow ambitious in a 
business or social w^ay. 

Wishing to acquire the coveted know- 
ledge as cheaply as possible, they often 
concern themselves rather with a 
teacher's price than with his qualifica- 
tions. An Irishman with a decided 
brogue once made quite an income giving 
English lessons in St. Petersburg. The 
Scotch and Cockney dialects are by no 
means unknown, and the effect of their 
combination with the Russian accent 
must be heard to be appreciated. 

The business section of St. Peters- 
burg is scattered over a much larger 
area than in any of our large cities, but 
most of the best shops are found on 
the Nevski Prospect or the Great Morsk- 
aya. The cumbersome horse-cars in use 
when we first went to the capital were 
recently replaced by swifter-moving 
electrics, but in other respects the city 
has changed very little in the past twenty 
years or more. 

At first sight Moscow appears to be a 
city of churches, but even saints must be 



fed and clothed during the years of their 
earthly pilgrimage, so shops are to be 
found on every hand. They are more 
oriental in character than those of St. 
Petersburg, and if possible still more de- 
lightful. Such rugs and tapestries as 
they exhibit, such jewels and embroid- 
eries! If ever one experiences the joy 
of having money, it is when such goods 
as these are offered for sale. 

Satisfying though the shops are to 
the average tourist, the resident house- 
wife must concern herself also with the 
market. Although a rouble seems almost 
like a dollar on shopping expeditions, it 
shrinks to fifty cents when one brings 
it to market, and sometimes seems even 
smaller than that. What it purchases, 
however, is so eminently satisfactory 
that one soon learns to forget to count 
the cost. 

Vegetables and fruits are, as a rule, 
rather high, but their quality leaves 
little to be desired — unless one's taste 
runs to peaches and tropical fruits, 
which have to be picked so very green 
as to seem dry and flavorless when they 
come to the table. 

There is a tiny fruitstand by every 
bridge, and these, with the great army 
of peasant hawkers, are patronized by 
all whose incomes do not encourage their 
trading in the higher-priced shops. 
Berries and small fruits are sold by the 
pound, so the high-bottomed basket, that 
plague of the housewives, is unknown in 
the Russian markets. 

The peasant hawker with a great tray 
or basket of goods on his head plays an 
important part in the housekeeper's ser- 
vice. Fruit and game are his specialities, 
and a little shrewd bargaining gives one 
the latter at remarkably low prices. Fish, 
too, are brought to the door almost every 
day, especially during Lent and the three 
other long fasts. 

Very little home baking is done in 
Russian cities, so bakeries are far more 
numerous than with us. The poorer 
classes buy their bread by the pound 
from immense round loaves, black for 



66 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



everyday use, coarse white for holidays. 
The well-to-do favor small French loaves 
and a better quality of black bread, which 
is relished by all classes. Rolls of all 
kinds, cakes of every size and variety, 
and immense numbers of tarts are sold, 
but one looks in vain for Yankee pie 
and doughnuts, which are unknown 
among the subjects of the Tsar. 

The markets in the provincial towns 
are very interesting, especially in the 
Baltic ports. Here more of the venders 
are sturdy peasant women, who bring 
their supplies to the market at dawn. 

Sometimes they trudge along the 
roads, bearing great baskets of supplies 
on their heads, again they sit in quaint 
old carts, guiding their spiritless horses. 
They seem to thoroughly enjoy the 
dickering and bantering inseparable 
from a Russian market, and shrewd in- 
deed is the purchasing housewife who 
gets ahead of them in a bargain. Old 
umbrellas shield them from the glare of 



the sun, and they sit in their places on 
the ancient pavement until their stock 
disappears or night overtakes them. 

The vender of souvenirs is much in 
evidence in Russia, particularly at the 
summer resorts. The features of Peter 
the Great on a Russian flag constitute 
one of his most popular offerings, but 
there are other trifles in abundance with 
which to tempt those having no especial 
preference for Russia's best known 
monarch. 

The cheap and nourishing sunflower 
seed is the Russian's substitute for our 
popcorn and peanuts, and even the 
American girl almost forgets to sigh for 
ice cream soda when sipping cranberry 
kvas. 

While both the Russian shops and 
markets lack many articles dear to 
Americans, they are usually able to sell 
something ''just as good" to all but the 
most finical patrons. 



Reopening the Summer Camp 

By Mrs. Charles Norman 



BLESSED is he who has a camp 
to open ! No matter what it cost, 
it was a bargain. Savage men 
live in rude buildings or tents all their 
days, and I suppose it is because we are 
descended from barbarians that we now 
and then sigh for "a, hut in some vast 
wilderness !" 

"Oh, that we were savages !" But 
we are not! We have attained civiliza- 
tion and must live up to it. We have 
taken it for better or for worse and 
must be true to our contract. Hence 
it is only once a year — or maybe not so 
often — that we persuade ourselves that 
we may righteously get away just long 
enough to recover. We are so egotistic 
we think the world will have a hard 
time getting along without us. 

Emerson says: "When my genius 
calls I forsake father and mother, and 



follow my genius." Last week we were 
sure — positively sure — our genius was 
calling. At least something was, and 
nothing but Genius would have been 
equal to the task of getting us out of 
the city. There was the office work, 
never more urgent; the aid society that 
might perish for want of us, the sick 
neighbor whom we did not wish to leave, 
and the little home place with no one 
to keep it up or guard it against van- 
dals — and vandalism is also a part of 
our civilization. (Indeed, vandals seem 
to thrive in the very centres of culture.) 
Then there was the need of money which 
we might save by staying at home. The 
need of money! Ah, that wolf forever 
gnawing at our vitals ! If Mr. Carnegie 
only knew us — knew our situation and 
our pre-eminent respectability — he would 
furnish us forth. One of our company^ 



REOPENING THE SUMMER CAMP 



67 



once saw that great dispenser of money, 
sitting in a sheltered nook on the deck 
of a steamer in mid-ocean. It would 
have been an excellent chance to lay 
our case before him, for he would have 
been cornered, with no means of escape, 
save in jumping overboard; but the un- 
thinking traveler let the opportunity 
slip. 

Nevertheless, we were going to camp. 
We were going — ''the Lord willing" — • 
and we thought He was. That Divine 
Power — previously referred to as ''Gen- 
ius," had manifested itself and we were 
going whether it was "wise" or not. 
There are times when it is not only cour- 
ageous, but righteous to be indiscreet. 
(This remark is for people past forty 
years of age. Let no youth throw it up 
to me.) 

So, in spite of seeming impossibilities, 
we left the city — "nor cast one longing, 
lingering look behind." And now here 
we are at Pick Up Cabin and the even- 
ing and the morning are the first day! 
At twilight of this first day I put these 
words upon paper. We built this cabin 
^two years ago. The expense was not 
great. No architect was needed. The 
man for whom the structure was put up 
cooked for the carpenters and when he 
wasn't cooking he was driving nails. I 
dare say he was as awkward at one job 
as the other — though he had driven a 
few nails when he was a boy. It was 
no wonder the men hastened through 
and that the sound of the hammer did 
not long disturb the stillness of the 
woods. 

The land the hut sits upon is not our 
own ; it was loaned. There is not much 
reason to suppose that the owner could 
sell it if he wished. He thinks he will 
never care to sell. If he should con- 
clude to use it, we will just give him the 
house. 

You might think it was not much of 
a gift. Some people "sorter" grunt and 
do not say much when they see it or a 
photograph of it. Oh, yes — we had its 
picture taken first thing ; we felt so 



proud! One woman said: "Dear! It 
looks so lonely!" as if that was not just 
what we desired ! Another friend asked 
if we weren't afraid to stay there, — but 
we are not, for we have screens to keep 
out bears and wildcats and savage beasts 
of all sorts. I told her that and she 
shuddered. 

We really arrived at this spot last 
evening, but being furnished with such 
feeble luminaries that we did not care 
to work after dark, we "aired" the house, 
set up cots, collected some fire-wood and 
retired before daylight was gone or we 
had need of a match. Our decision was 
that each should rise when he got ready, 
and we imagined we should sleep late, 
but we were roused by the light of day 
and the noises of the various wood-folk. 
We felt refreshed, and so happy in the 
novel situation that we could not sleep 
more. I, for one, was afraid of missing 
something in the outdoor pageant. 

I remember once I was entertaining, 
in a country place, a sweet young miss 
of fourteen years. I asked her to keep 
a journal ; for to me the world was full 
of beauty and wonders. My little friend 
had leisure for observation and writing 
and I expected great things. One day, 
when we had found such a glorious 
patch of white violets and I was feeling 
jubilant, I looked into her book to see 
what she had written. Her record was : 
"Nothing doing." 

This girl was waiting for opportuni- 
ties, but did not recognize one when she 
saw it. But I am not discouraged. Four- 
teen is very young; I will bide my time 
and when the dear little lady reaches 
the sublime age at which I have arrived, 
I shall invite her to Pick Up Cabin, and 
I feel sure she will rise early, as I do, 
"for fear of missing something.'* 

Our first thought always is to get out 
of doors. Breakfast, taken inside, be- 
cause of the dew, is, therefore, an im- 
pertinence, though we are hungry enough 
to eat most anything. We brought our 
fireless-cooker along and our porridge 
was waiting for us when we got up. It 



68 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



was necessary, however, to take a walk 
of a half mile to get milk — for the fam- 
ily is not educated up (or down) to the 
point of canned milk. This excursion 
the children were eager to make — the 
adults likewise, so all of us went. In- 
cidentally we renewed our acquaintance 
with our "neighbors," men, women and 
children, dogs, horses, cows, etc. (And 
so forth includes a good many crea- 
tures.) 

After breakfast father and the chil- 
dren made a dam for the little stream, 
and when that was completed we did 
our washing. The dipping of the linen 
is a daily process up here, like making 
our toilettes ; and no more trouble. The 
wet garments are hung upon bushes to 
dry. I wonder, I have always won- 
dered, why it is that clothes dried in 
this way give a suggestion of sweetness, 
with never a hint of ''civilized dirt." 

While the domestic affairs were going 
on, there was also in progress the cut- 
ting of new paths, for the year's growth 
had quite obliterated the old ones. 
Weeds, brakes, and brambles ; wild roses, 
geranium and clematis ; the beautiful 
and the unbeautiful — how they fell be- 
fore the brush scythe! Possibly the 
wholesale slaughter ought to have been 
avoided, for one has only to pass a few 
times over any one route, till a path is 
formed. However, it may still be a wet 
and thorny way and a hindrance to daily 
pursuits. 

Just before the noon-time repast the 
family assembled on "the big rock" and 
had a reading. It began with Scripture 
and a sort of "praise meeting" — for "in 
this mountain the Lord of hosts had 
made unto His people a feast of fat 
things." After the Bible reading we had 
some pages from Mabie's "Under the 
Trees." The writer had been complain- 
ing that something wrong was in his 
house, and ought to be ejected; but he 
decided it was himself, and so he was 
ejected, lived awhile out-of-doors, and 
righteousness was restored. 

Appetite being a fine sauce, our din- 



ner tasted good — though it was not what 
a camp dinner should be. Our "boys" 
have not got established in fishing, hunt- 
ing and trapping. The younger boy — 
his playmate is past forty — says he could 
have caught a fish this morning when 
damming the stream, but he was not 
quick enough. He "did not dare hurry 
because it is against the rules of the 
camp to hurry." Small boys are clever 
in making excuses for not doing things. 

After dinner we had a forage for 
stove-wood. We might, by walking a 
little further, pick up coal on the rail- 
road track, but that is too much like 
"civilization" — a very slummy sort. 

Following our tramp, there was an- 
other assembly on "the big rock," and 
we read more from Mabie. Before we 
go home we wish to read Emerson's 
Nature, Mid Summer Night's Dream, 
Wordsworth's Ode, some of Shelley's 
out-door poems and bits from Thoreau. 
Interspersed with these we hope to enjoy 
one of our household favorites — Brad- 
ford Torrey — that dear young Massa- 
chusetts gentleman of three-score-and- 
ten years — who is such an enthusiastic 
walker and pleasant talker. 

Perhaps we shall not read so much 
as we think, for "the big rock," even 
with a rug over it, is not like a Morris 
chair, and if it were we should not care 
to sit long at a time, when there is a 
chance to learn from Nature direct. We 
want the books only to open our minds 
and hearts and prepare the way ; then 
we shall go outside for the sweeter 
knowledge and the truest. 

City people who have never camped 
wonder how we can get along with so 
little furniture and in such small space. 
Well, for one thing, we ourselves be- 
come very insignificant when God is so 
near; and then we really do not dwell 
in the cabin, but in the universe. The 
hills and trees and streams are our fur- 
niture and the sky .by day and night is 
as familiar as our city dooryard. To 
stay inside the cabin when we can as 
well stay out, is a misdemeanor, pun- 



DRESS, DIET AND DEBT 



o9 



ishable by fine. 

As I told you, we have been here but 
twenty-four hours ; but I have recollec- 
tions and I know we shall not fail to get 
this rich inheritance. What dynamiters 
have done to-day or what daring aero- 
planist has broken his bones, we do not 
know. If anything is wrong with the 



world, we are not aware of it. 

We had a little shower late this after- 
noon and now the clouds have put on 
their freshest, loveliest tints. Matthew 
Arnold defines religion as ''morality 
touched with emotion." If this defini- 
tion be good, we are the profoundest of 
worshippers. 



August 

By Forbes Allan 

There's a beam on the fields, there's a haze On a moss-covered bank, where the wood 

on the hills, flowers drowse 

There's a twinkling light on the slow-flowing I told her my love 'neath the o'erhanging 

rills boughs, — 

Near the birch-circled pool* where the brook 'Twas only a whisper — a sigh — a long look — 
lies asleep, Oh, 'twas heaven down there by the mur- 

And the lily pads rest on their stems in the muring brook ! 

deep. 

Now 'tis summer, and now the brook rushes 

along 
By the moss-covered bank with a gurgling 

song. 
My bait's in my basket, my line's by my side, — 
What matters spurned love and a boy's 
slighted pride? 



Dress, Diet and Debt 

By Kate Gannett Wells 



AS colleges, newspapers, maga- 
zines and clubs make us familiar 
with the necessities and eccen- 
tricities of dress, diet and debt, the time 
will surely come when two of these fac- 
tors will work automatically and one 
not at all. Then what remaineth of the 
first and second in the curriculum of 
personal experience will be known only 
by beauty of proportion and adaptation 
to circumstances. Though Ruskin may 
have been wisely indignant in his life- 
time that these three problems were not 
included in the "Political Economy 
Studies" of Oxford and Cambridge 
Universities, he surely would have pro- 
tested against their assuming a collegiate 
importance out of all proportion to their 
academic value. 

There is no surer sign that the School 



and the State are taking the place of the 
Home and Parents than that such sub- 
jects are now treated outside of the 
Home and of the confines of common 
sense. Surely there are too many ideal 
values • in education, to be balanced 
against industrial training, for these 
home virtues to be awarded so much 
space and time. The low tuition fees in 
private, special schools of cookery and 
household arts and the many free philan- 
thropic classes in these subjects are, 
meanwhile, offering large opportunities 
for thorough training in housewifery. 

And thus, because there are thousands 
of homes unfit to take the place of guides 
and mentors and because each one of us 
must dress and eat without getting into 
debt, we rejoice that children are taught 
to sew and cook by expert teachers and 



70 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



that in due time an excellent heredity 
will take the place of specialization. It 
is the unseen handing down through in- 
heritance of personal skill in making 
bows or biscuits that best justifies the 
number of hours given to these subjects 
in public schools. Still an old New Eng- 
lander will always believe that no bread 
is equal to her mother's and a French 
woman that no other nation than hers 
can originate such tasty knick-knacks in 
dress. 

Yet to elevate dress above its me- 
chanics we have to get beyond its passing 
phases into its eternal verities and then, 
having individualized it for our many 
separate selves, to make permanent, each 
for herself, her own style. Just because 
we do not dare to wear what is most 
becoming, if it chances to be against the 
decree of the moment, a Merry Widow 
hat to-day and a Quaker Girl bonnet 
to-morrow, without regard ''to the tilt of 
noses," we adopt fashion and lose our- 
selves. Thus above the art of sewing 
rises love of beauty, gained from noble 
study of noble lives and pictures, until 
the art sense dominates our lives, how- 
ever limited may be our means to attain 
unto the beautiful, for which not money 
but heart and taste are most needed. 

It is in this manner that many of our 
schools are doing far-reaching work 
through instruction in dressmaking. 
Girls are learning to design as well as 
to sew. Or if the bizarre is concocted, 
the indulgent smile of the teacher, caring 
for simplicity of line and for harmony in 
color, corrects the pupils' vagaries in 
taste: Alas, for them, if the teacher is 
bent on originaHty ! 

And that clothes make for character 
is true from prison stripes to the gar- 
most becoming dress, since she found it 
ments of the hostess who gave away her 
"really impossible to behave quite nicely 
in it." 

Diet, from fads co decorated foods 
along the Hues of nutrition, looms up and 
is actualized, all that culinary taste and 
science, hygiene, wealth and economy 



can devise. Fortunate again for the 
future is it that cookery has become a 
common every day branch of instruc- 
tion, though the babies of our play- 
grounds and alleys still show how much 
remains to be acquired. We are learn- 
ing to respect our digestive powers and 
to adapt ourselves to their demands just 
as we do to the inexorableness of our 
household machines. There is no profit 
in getting angry with our sewing ma- 
chine nor with our diet. That the 
Prussian general, Bismarck, could eat 
fifteen plover eggs and a hundred and 
seventy oysters at a single meal does not 
disprove the need of moderation in ap- 
petite. Yet so strong is the craving for 
good things to eat that the earliest forms 
of children's selfishness are often seen 
in regard to cake and candy. 

Perchance, it was not always so, for 
the story goes, that a certain grandfather, 
when asked at a family dinner if he liked 
the chicken's wing, replied, 'T have never 
tasted it. When I was a youngster it 
went to our parents, to-day it goes to 
our children." 

Food and its preparation are as good 
tests of national as of individual char- 
acter. The total cost of the first Inde- 
pendence Day dinner, July 4, 1776, par- 
taken of by General Washington and his 
staff, was, excluding wines, one pound, 
thirteen shillings, eleven pence. The 
yellowed records of the Treasury De- 
partment give the menu as "Loyn of 
veal; roasting piece of beef; cabbage, 
beets and beans ; peas ; potatoes ; black- 
fish and lobster." 

Curious is it that the Anglo Saxons, 
who, being chiefly dependent upon vege- 
table diet, gave the names to our bread, 
peas, beans, eggs, and called their living 
animals oxen, calves, sheep, pigs, deer, 
found that the flesh of those animals, 
when prepared for the tables of the 
Norman castles, was designated by An- 
glo Norman names, such as beef, veal, 
mutton, pork, venison. The Norman 
names without the Norman appetite still 
remain and our diet is, after all, but 



QUINCE PRESERVES 



71 



variations for the better on those of our 
ancestors. 

And as for debt, a problem Ruskin 
would have had colleges solve, its per- 
sonal solution would not be so difficult, 
if we limited our wants to our means. 
It is improvidence and recklessness, the 
desire to "go it one better" than some- 
body else, which is the cause of most 
debt. It is the weak chivalry of loans 
to others, when one has a family of one's 
own to support. It is too early mar- 
riages because one has neither the pa- 
tience nor the energy to wait. Never 
borrow; never buy on the instalment 
plan, go without instead; never treat, if 
one has to go into debt for it or to de- 
prive one's own family of their rights; 
incur no obligations which one cannot 
fulfill and do not rely too much upon 



health as an assefe in paying back, since 
the sense of indebtedness weakens 
strength. Of course there are excep- 
tions to all rules saving, only, that the 
best rule for one's self should be the 
inescapable one of never to run into 
debt. 

Ruskin was wise, after all, in his selec- 
tion of his three Ds, for it is extrava- 
gance in dress and diet that brings on 
debt, a devitalizing, harrowing process. 
Without debt and with plain food and 
simple, pretty dressing, the "Gospel of 
Spring" is ever with us, as the ethics 
of dress and diet prevent the burden of 
debt. Then does the reserve power that 
we all desire grow, within us as we apply 
sturdy, logical common sense to our 
imaginations and desires. 



Quince Preserves 

By Josephine Page Wright 



ROBERT writes to Gordon. 
My dear Bennington, 
Because you have never ridi- 
culed my interest in occultism, I come 
to you with a request that I should 
hesitate to present to any other of my 
friends. I have been for the past year 
studying more deeply than ever and I 
believe that I am upon the eve of dis- 
covery. That I have unveiled the mys- 
tery of so-called materialization I am 
convinced. With satisfactory conditions 
and ideal environment, I can, I feel sure, 
at will, throw upon the screen of our 
material plane pictures which now exist 
only in the astral. Briefly, I desire to 
occupy your summer home on The 
Island for a month, alone and undis- 
turbed. I am a tidy housekeeper and 
give you my promise to return to you 
your property in excellent order and to 
leave behind none of my silly ghosts to 
haunt it. 

Cordially, 

Robert F.— 



Gordon to Robert. 
Dear Robert, 
Here's the key. Fire ahead with your 
seance. Help yourself to the contents 
of the store room, if you run out of 
provisions. Spare the quince preserves, 
however, as I am especially fond of 
them. I am not going to tell Amy, as 
she would want to send down a retinue 
of servants to air mattresses and do over 
the bed linen. Of course you want ab- 
solute privacy. Let's hear how the spook 
factory works. 

Gordon. 

Virginia to Amy. 
Dearest Amy, 
I'm in trouble and I'm coming to you 
for help. My stepbrother, vulgar al- 
ways, has become intolerable since the 
reading of mother's will. I have left his 
house and sought refuge with our good 
friend Elizabeth. But he has followed 
me here and, last evening ^t dinner, made 
a scandalous scene. I cannot subject my 



72 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



friends to his presence and vulgarity and, 
moreover, I seem unable to escape from 
them myself. Let me have the key to 
your summer home on The Island for 
a week or two. He will never think of 
looking for me there and he is insanely 
angry enough to do anything. Don't tell 
Gordon or any other living soul. Men 
always mess things so. I am not a bit 
afraid and shall find some way of letting 
you hear from me every day. 
Lovingly, 

Virginia. 

Amy to Virginia. 
You dear goose, 

Of course you may have the key (it's 
the one to the screen porch entrance. I 
cannot find Gordon's key anywhere and 
I cannot ask him for it.) However, I 
am dreadfully afraid for you and, un- 
less I hear from you every single day, I 
shall come down at once with much mis- 
giving and many policemen to look for 
the murderers. You will find canned 
fruit and vegetable, tea and coffee in 
the store room. Be sure to take bread- 
stuffs and butter, condensed milk and 
tins of biscuit. But I do not like the 
plan. Come to me. I promise you shall 
not be annoyed by any man. If you had 
taken my advice and married that ideal- 
ist of yours, you would not have to hide 
like a rat in a hole. 

Yours, provoked. 

Amy. 

P. S. — Don't eat all the quince pre- 
serves. They are Gordon's favorite 
sweet. 

Robert to Gordon. 

Dear old stand-by, 
I am delighte^J with conditions here 
on The Island. I am as snug as a bug 
in a rug. Had a peculiar experience last 
night — psychic, but not particularly in- 
teresting in that way. Simply a case of 
sleep walking. I am sleeping all day and 
studying and experimenting at night, in- 
asmuch as darkness is the better time 
for testing my theories. Before going 



to bed yesterday morning I went over 
the house, looked through the store 
room and pantry and decided that my 
first meal of the night (naturally I can- 
not designate it by the usual term) 
should consist of a glass of quince pre- 
serves and a plate of my favorite biscuit, 
tins of which I brought along with me. 
This must have been uppermost in my 
mind when I retired, because this even- 
ing, when I awoke and made a hurried 
toilet, I found, upon entering the dining 
room, the breakfast table set for one 
and a glass of quince preserves and a 
plate of biscuit waiting for me. The 
daintiest of linen and china had been 
used and a tempting roll of butter was 
hidden on a plate under a napkin. Of 
course I had done this in my sleep. 
Everything was carefully arranged, 
much more artistically, in fact, than I 
could have done it, had I been awake. 
This fact, however, is not surprising as 
we psychologists understand that the 
subconscious mind is capable of much 
which, for the conscious mind to plan, 
would be impossible. Nevertheless, the 
strangeness of the episode did not 
frighten away my appetite and I ate 
heartily until every crumb of the biscuit, 
knife tip of the butter and spoonful of 
the jam was gone. Whereupon I washed 
my dishds, cleared the table and resumed 
my studies in the Hbrary. You under- 
stand, my dear friend, this is narrated 
as an interesting adventure and not be- 
cause it is an unusual psychic phe- 
nomenon. I am preparing for my final 
test and may have something worth 
while to relate in a short time. Adieu, 

Robert. 

Gordon to Robert. 
Dear Bob, 
I'm worried about you. You're work- 
ing too hard. Don't like that sleep walk- 
ing proposition. Always seemed like 
brother-in-law to delirium tremens. In- 
cidentally, do you mind suggesting to 
your subconscious mind not to butt in 
on the meals? If it gets to eating three 



QUINCE PRESERVES 



73 



times a day, and you continue to eat 
three times a night, and you both show 
a preference for quince preserves, I can 
see where Gordon eats peanut butter on 
his bread next summer. Cut it out, hunt 
up my tackle and go fishing. 

Gordon. 

Virginia to Amy. 
Dear Amy, 
When I went to buy my ticket, my 
enemy stood in the station talking to 
one of his traveling men. I bought a 
ticket for the limited north and changed 
trains at the junction. I suppose he 
thinks that I have gone to Westbrooke 
to see Emma, and the incident may 
prove more fortunate for me than other- 
wise. Still I was very nervous when I 
arrived, which may account for several 
things which I can not otherwise ex- 
plain. When I unlocked the house, I 
went at once to your room, but found 
the door locked on the inside. At least, 
if it is not, you must have the key. I 
am, therefore, occupying the room 
which Gordon Junior used last summer, 
I arrived late in the afternoon but was 
not hungry. When I went to take my 
food purchases to the store room, how- 
ever, I discovered a tin of butter biscuit 
of which I am particularly fond, but 
which I had neglected to buy. And 
Amy, dear, why did you warn me not 
to take your old quince preserves? I 
no sooner cast my eyes upon them than 
I felt the taste on my tongue and I 
knew I must have one — just one — glass 
of them. I carried my prizes in, and, 
with a little pat of butter, arranged them 
most temptingly for consumption just 
before I retired. I ran back to my room, 
bathed, slipped on my night dress with a 
bath robe over it and went down to the 
dining-room. Believe me or not, the table 
was as bare as a baby's head. Not a 
crumb on it or on the floor beneath it. 
On the serving board stood an empty 
jelly glass, nicely washed and polished. 
Of course I was startled, but, for some 
strange reason, I was not frightened. 



Ghost or burglar, it was well-bred. I 
went to bed and slept like a baby until 
morning. The house is quiet as a tomb 
to-day. Perhaps it was a dream born 
of my recent disturbed condition of 
mind. In any event, I am very content. 
Love, 

Virginia. 

Amy to Virginia. 
Dearest refugee. 

There is a mystery deep and terrible 
in your experience, but you have not 
realized its nature. The strange disap- 
pearance of your supper could be ex- 
plained in a dozen different ways. But. 
what can never be explained is how a 
tin of butter biscuit came to be in my 
store room. I have never had one in 
my house. I detest them' and so does 
Gordon. I did not leave my room locked,, 
but the bolt catches sometimes when the 
wind blows the door shut. I am worry- 
ing about you, poor foolish child. 
Affectionately, 

Amy. 
Robert to Gordon. 
Dear Friend, 

The test has been made and my theory 
has been proved. Last night, or rather 
this morning, at two o'clock, I brought 
from the astral to the material plane a 
thought, a picture, a spirit. Call it what 
you will, I saw it with my physical eyes 
and, if you had been here, you would 
have seen it, too. The night was un- 
usually still and dark. The only in- 
strument I use is a bell of peculiar tone 
and vibration, which I had fashioned 
for myself for the purpose. I fasted 
during the night and my powers of con- 
centration were strong. At the chosen 
hour I sat in your desk chair in the 
library, the bell before me on the table. 
The lights were out. I began to sound 
the bell, softly at first, then more sharp- 
ly and loudly. There was absolutely no 
other sound in the house. The vision 
which I wished to produce was that of 
a beautiful woman, to me the most beau- 
tiful woman in the world. I had chosen 



74 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



this for two reasons. The first was that 
to see it would give me great pleasure, 
the second that, for months, I had exer- 
cised upon the thought of her my ability 
to concentrate. The result of my choice, 
my desire, and my scientific knowledge 
was the vision itself. She stood before 
me in a long flowing garment of white, 
the alleged spirit robe of the seance room. 
Her neck was bare and her long hair 
fell in heavy plaits over either shoulder. 
The puzzled, anxious look, which I had 
last seen upon her face, was stamped 
upon it in the vision. But what I have 
now to relate baffles all scientific ex- 
planation. She raised her bare white 
arms and, stretching her hands toward 
me, uttered my name twice. This most 
unlooked-for thing paralyzed my powers 
of reason. I sat like a dead man until 
she turned slowly, and, I fancied, sor- 
rowfully, and faded into the night. I 
am satisfied. To-morrow I shall rest, 
then take a day or two to resume my 
natural habits of eating and sleeping. 
Expect me with the key Wednesday or 
Thursday of next week. 

Yours, successful, 

Robert. 

Virginia to Amy. 
Dear Amy, 
You may think me mad, but it seems 
to me that I am just regaining my senses. 
When I sent my idealist away I was a 
child, full of love for the material world. 
But since trouble has come, my first 
trouble, I begin to see my folly and his 
wisdom. He is nearer to me to-day than 
when he was constantly at my side. \\'ill 
you believe what now I have to relate? 
Early this morning, some time before 
sunrise, I lay dreaming of him. Some- 
where in the lower part of the house a 
bell sounded. It seemed soft and sweet, 
at first, again short and imperious, just 
as his call to me has always been. 
Whether this bell was a part of my 
dream I do not know, but I rose from 
my bed and hurried in the direction of 
the sound. On the threshold of the 



library I paused. I cannot explain to 
you the feeling I had. It was as though 
he were there in the flesh. I called to 
him repeatedly, but there was no re- 
sponse. Nevertheless I do feel that he 
is near in spirit to protect me. Only my 
foolish pride prevents me from sending 
for him to come to me in the flesh. Am 
I mad? 

Virginia. 

Amy to Virginia. 
Dear Virginia, 
Cease to worry. You are not mad. 
You are in love. This explains all the 
hallucinations, including the butter bis- 
cuit. 

Lovingly, 

Amy. 

Mrginia to Amy. 
Dear Amy, 
It is all clear to me now — and yet 
many things are not clear. But the Blue 
Beard Chamber and the stolen supper, 
these at least I understand. Last night 
I retired to my room happier and more 
content than I have been for many days. 
About twelve o'clock I was aroused 
from my sleep by the sound of falling 
glass. I sprang from my bed, threw a 
bath robe about me and ran to the din- 
ing-room. The lights were on, and, 
kneeling above something on the floor, 
was the figure of a man. I stifled a cry, 
but he heard me and came to his feet 
at once. As he faced me I heard him 
say, ''The vision again and in this light." 
I saw that it was my idealist and that 
a splotch of red was upon his temple. 
When I returned to consciousness, he 
was supporting me with one arm and 
hand and with his other hand wiping the 
blood from his face with a napkin. "You 
are wounded," I moaned, hiding my 
face in my hands. "Nothing of the 
kind," he insisted, "it is blood from my 
hand where I have cut it on a broken 
glass." I turned and looked on the floor 
near me. Oh, Amy, my idealist has 
hopelessly stained the oriental rug in 



THE COMING OF MARY ELLEX 



75 



your library with some of Gordon's 
quince preserves. He says I am not 
strong enough to travel and he will not 
leave me, so you must come at once. 

Virginia. 

Robert to Gordon. 



Dear Bennington, 
I do not care two whollops what exists 
on the astral plane. Come down on the 
evening train and bring Amy. 

Bob. 
P. S. — There are only five glasses of 
your quince preserves left. 



The Coming of Mary Ellen 

By Helen Forrest 



THE truant officer, destroyer of 
domestic peace, in the Third 
Ward, burst in one late Septem- 
ber morning on the happy family at No. 
17 Maloney Avenue, demanding that 
Mary Ellen, eldest daughter of the house 
of O'Connell, be that day sent to school. 

Three generations of the ladies O'Con- 
nell looked up curiously at the imperious 
knock at the door where the broken bell 
cord hung lifelessly ; it was not thus that 
the family of Big Tim O'Connell, un- 
crowned king of the Third Ward, was 
accustomed to be interrupted, and they 
could not know that courage born of 
desperation was urging the man of law 
to do his duty. Mrs. O'Connell, as she 
wrung a sheet from the steaming suds, 
denounced him as an "impident blag- 
gard" ; the grandmother, taking a pipe 
from her uncertain lips, requested him 
to have his ugly face out of the house. 
Mary Ellen, aged six, occupying effi- 
ciently, though informally, the position 
of Mother's Helper, listened, wide-eyed 
to the heated discussion and the unceas- 
ing demand for her absence from the 
family circle. She looked up from the 
floor, where, seated on a blanket, she was 
feeding the baby his breakfast of fried 
potatoes, and asked the truant officer 
an unanswerable question, — "Who would 
mind Johnnie and the baby?" 

It mattered little to Mary Ellen that 
she appeared on the lists of the census 
enumerator of the town : — ''Mary Ellen 
— dau. — Timothy — 6 yrs. — last Aug. — 



3d— 17 Maloney Ave.," or that the sup- 
erintendent of schools was harrassing 
the unfortunate truant officer to get 
every eligible child into its place — that 
the school board at the next meeting 
should be forced by evidence of con- 
gesting numbers into the erection of a 
new school building. Her little world 
was full of cares and of small pleasures — 
what longing had she for the luminary 
of learning whose rays had never ap- 
peared above her small horizon ? 

At the truant officer's first visit, some 
two weeks before, Mary Ellen had lis- 
tened with unbelief to his account of the 
demand for her attendance, also of the 
pleasures of school ; she had estimated 
\visely her mother's inconsequent prom- 
ise to the officer — ''Oh, you'll soon be 
seein' her there." 

The second visit of the unhappy offi- 
cer had been scornfully ignored by the 
reigning family of O'Connell, in fact 
the door had been unexpectedly closed 
in the visitor's very face. On this, the 
third attack, the truant officer, having 
assured himself that Big Tim was surely 
not at home, doggedly maintained his 
offensive position in the door, spoke 
briefly of police courts and of the large 
fines awaiting such parents as kept their 
children from the benefits of instruction. 
He designated School No. 10, only three 
blocks away, as the place destined for 
the enlightenment of Mary Ellen, then 
fled the wrath behind him, and began 
his search for Thomas Aloysius Elynn, 



76 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



a duly registered attendant of Grade IV, 
who for two happy days had been "play- 
ing hookey." 

The short September day was over, 
when the six o'clock whistles liberated 
Big Tim O'Connell from his emory 
wheel in Factory B; the extra arc light 
with which the City Fathers had recent- 
ly illumined the fighting corner of Ma- 
loney Avenue in the hope o£ lessening 
the number of arrests in that locality, 
shone brightly on the O'Connell door- 
way where Mary Ellen awaited her 
father. The kiss with which Big Tim 
greeted her was probably slightly redo- 
lent of beer, but none the less was it 
loving and fatherly, and their eyes met 
with a cheerful understanding. 

''What's the good word?" demanded 
Big Tim, who had returned in jocular 
mood, as his broad shoulders bowed 
themselves a little when he entered the 
kitchen door. 

"Good news nothin'," replied his wife, 
"an impident officer was here the 
mornin', a tellin' me and threatnin' me 
to send Mary Ellen to school. Get him 
fired, can't ye, Tim?" — this with su- 
preme confidence in her husband's politi- 
cal pull. 

"Threatnin, is it?" Big Tim flushed 
redly — "I'll see about that." 

He drew a chair to the untidy table 
where Mrs. O'Connell was putting on 
supper, looked at his unkempt wife, then 
at the grandmother, whose pipe was laid 
beside her on the table to admit the 
evening meal, then turned with resolu- 
tion and a softened glance to Mary 
Ellen. 

"Darlin', would ye like to go to school 
and learn to be a lady? I don't want ye 
to go in the shop like me, nor yet doin' 
washin's like her," with a nod towards 
his wife. "Maybe we can make ye into 
a teacher." 

He turned angrily at Mrs. O'Connell's 
storm of protest — Big Tim was master 
of his own house as well as in his ward — 
"Send her to school, and that quick," 
he ordered. "I'll give ye some money 



if she needs clo'es." 

Bowing, therefore, before the power of 
the law, backed by paternal authority,, 
did the family of Mary Ellen prepare for 
her debut into educational circles. She 
was gladdened by the appearance of a 
dress of brilliant plaid, hitherto worn 
only at St. Bridget's Guild, and to the 
regular church services where her spir- 
itual training had already begun. Ta 
this plaid was added her shiney shoes, 
and the straw hat with the red ribbon. 
What if the plaid dress was put on over 
the less formal robe which she wore at 
home, what if the stockings were guilt- 
less of feet, and were sewed securely to- 
the tops of the shoes? Why, the world 
is full of such small deceptions, and noth- 
ing is gained by too critical inspection: 
of our neighbor's affairs. 

Mary Ellen was taken to school by the 
oldest Mulvaney boy, who had attained 
the dignity of the fourth grade, and who, 
though far from being himself a model 
of department, delivered a moral lecture 
as they went on their way. He warned 
her that she must be good, and he spoke 
menacingly of "lickin's" that followed 
the slightest transgressions of the law. 

There was no fear, however, in the 
bright, dark eyes that Mary Ellen raised 
to the face of the first grade teacher 
who met her in the hall; life on Maloney 
Avenue does not tend to foster timidity. 
She even smiled as she took the teacher's 
offered hand, and entered the sunn}^ 
schoolroom where forty children re- 
garded the newcomer with a conscious- 
superiority born of a week's experience 
in school. 

To Mary Ellen, head-nurse and moth- 
er's able assistant in the housework, the 
day was full of surprises. She was 
seated at a table where gay-colored kin- 
dergarten material was spread out ; her 
pink cheeks dimpled with pleasure over 
the songs and the marching. She heard 
with evident amazement the teacher's re- 
quest that all the children must be sure 
to play with Mary Ellen at recess, and 
to take care of her, "for she is such a. 



A PAIR OF FRIENDS 



11 



little girl, and doesn't know her way 
around the playground." 

From being the older sister she had 
descended to the alluring sweets of ir- 
responsibility, and smiled for very hap- 
piness at the easy things given her to do. 
Building block houses and stringing 
wooden beads is blissful occupation to 
one who has lifted a heavy baby, washed 
dishes, and even "fried the dinner." 

Seated decorously on a small chair in 
■a circle known as the Third Class in 
Number, she gazed pittyingly at her as- 
sociates who faltered over the mathema- 
tical problems relating to marbles : "If 
I had five marbles and lost two," queried 
the teacher, "how many would be left?" 
Was it possible that teacher didn't know, 
and that these stupid children couldn't 
tell her! Not in vain did the eager 
teacher appeal to the newcomer, the best 
v^inner of marbles among the small girls 
of Maloney Avenue, her bright eyes see- 
ing beyond the sunny schoolroom to a 
dark corner of the sacred home parlor 
Avhere a dingy handkerchief held her 



store of marbles, answered assuringly, 
"Sure, Miss, you'd have three." 

So on through the lesson until, flushed 
with success, she was sent to her seat 
with the others of the class, there on a 
brown paper to make rows of shaky 
jives and to ponder over teacher's hope- 
ful explanation of the phenomenon, the 
large numeral on the board before 
them: — "First, you make a straight 
back, then a curly foot, and last of all 
a flag on top." 

At the end of the day she left the 
school yard, holding the hand of Honora 
Donahue, a big girl, who, being a neigh- 
bor, had been requested to see her safe- 
ly home. Once out on the street, her 
self-reliance returned, and she ran swift- 
ly home where, divested of her finery, 
she gathered baby into her insecure little 
gingham lap, and pulled Johnnie's hand 
out of the flour, while she told the story 
of her day, at the end exclaiming with 
rapture : "And I can't hardly wait for 
to-morrow so's I can go again." 



A Pair of Friends 

By Alix Thorn 

There's a brown plume waving over 
Nodding heads of fragrant clover, 
With a straw hat bobbing gaily 
Close beside it, soon you'll see, 
Underneath the plume is Rover, 
Dearest dog you can discover, 
Ready for a tramp or froHc, 
And the straw hat means, that's me. 

If you hear a sudden crashing 
In the alders, then a splashing. 
Watch the ripples ever widening 
Till they reach the willow tree — 
Then you'll know it's good old Rover, 
While that fish-pole stretching over, 
That a sunburned hand is holding, 
Well, that fish-pole means, just me. 

But when shadows come a-creeping, 
And a star it's watch is keeping, 
Down the road the dust is rising, 
Hurries past a burdened bee. 
See our Rover, slow returning, 
Westward red the sunset's burning, 
And the boy that's trudging homeward. 
Tired, but happy, guess that's me. 



78 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street Boston, Mass 

Subscription ^1 00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 

Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 

To OTHER Foreign Countries 40c per Year 



TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires ; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 



Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 



Hope 

By Stokely S. Fisher 

Low lisp of leaves by the light wind kissed, 

Faint wraith of the roses' musk, 
Diaphanous shadow of amethyst mist, 

Soft deepening browns of dusk! 
Behold, my dear, on far hills fair, 

The calm, crowned clouds at rest ; 
The rapture of peace complete is there 

In the wonderful light of the West! 

With throbbing brows and dim eyes blurred 

We have toiled our little day, 
Joy flitting fleet as the humming bird, — 

But hope ne'er flew away! 
The visions of youth, they are with us yet. 

And eve holds prophecy blest! 
Sunrise has no beauty but beams at sunset 

As fair in the light of the West! 

The anguish of labor without reward. 

Of loss unpaid by gain. 
Is passed; in the struggle long and hard 

Our lives have taken no stain. 
Oh, always we strove for the good supreme 

Whose image is limned in the breast! 
We are nearing the glory now of our dream 

As the light moves toward the West! 



VACATION AND HEALTH 

DO not stop your subscription to 
the Cooking-School Magazine, 
but take a vacation from work and 
worry. Nothing is more conducive to 
health and contentment than change of 
scene, exercise and diet. Unless one be 
very busy, confinement in one place for 
a single day often becomes irksome. 
Have you never noticed the benefit de- 
rived from even a short rest or change 
of occupation? It is, like the after- 
dinner nap, refreshing to the nervous 
system. In order that work of any kind 
be done well and efficiently, it must not 
fret the workman. Only recently has it 
been found out that certain kinds of 
labor should be done by men of certain 
temperaments. That is, the worker must 
be adapted, both physically and men- 
tally, to his work, to produce the best 
results. Also it has been learned that 
more and better work can be done per 
day by those workmen who are given 
short and timely intervals of rest, than 
by those who toil through protracted 
periods with no considerable relaxation. 
In every form of industry the old hit-or- 
miss system is out of date and passing 
away ; scientific management is every- 
where in demand. Let us study our 
labor problem and try to adapt our ef- 
forts to conditions and circumstances as 
we find them ; and, above all, let us plan 
for a good, wholesome vocation. At this 
season, it is outdoor life that heals our 
physical ills, and lifts us above the com- 
mon cares and worries of the struggle 
for existence. 

SCHOOLS AND HOME 
ECONOMICS 

ACCORDING to a writer in the 
Journal of Home Economics, the 
grand total of institutions known to be 
giving instruction in Home Economics 
in the United States is over 1200, and 
there are undoubtedly many others doing 
similar work. Over one hundred col- 
leges and universities or other institu^ 



EDITORIALS 



79 



tions of collegiate grade give courses in 
Home Economics. These courses vary 
considerably in character and extent, but 
in the main represent a reasonably high 
standard. This information is obtained 
from a card index of institutions giving 
instruction in Home Economics, which 
is maintained in the Agricultural Educa- 
tion Service of the Office of Experi- 
ment Stations, as a part of its regular 
work. 

All this is an outgrowth of a very few 
years in our educational system, but it 
indicates the beginning of a great re- 
form. As men are educated along cer- 
tain lines and trained for their several 
callings in life, so in the future women 
are to receive some special education and 
training for the occupations which they 
are destined to pursue. In any compre- 
hensive plan of social economy, the work 
of men and women is to be regarded as 
equal in importance. Women are no 
longer to engage in unremunerative call- 
ings. Housekeeping, for instance, is a 
partnership and it should be conducted 
on a business basis similar to that of 
any other partnership. Even the spend- 
ing of money calls for no less tact and 
skill, and is not less worthy of com- 
pensation, than the earning of the same. 
We have only what we save. In every 
successful business, a good bookkeeper 
is indispensable, and he must b^ well paid 
for his work. Home Economics has be- 
come a great subject and it has many 
branches. All these concern deeply in- 
dividual and social welfare and, conse- 
quently, the evolution of the race. A 
year ago, the late Mrs. Ellen H. Rich- 
ards said, ''To us to-day is given to see 
the tree of our nurture with its roots 
firmly planted and branches spreading 
from sea to sea. The seed of it was 
planted many years ago, and has been 
dug up many times to see if life existed. 
Home Economics, the preservation of 
the home and the economics of living, 
now occupy a large space in the trans- 
actions of societies and even in the daily 
press." 



THE HYGIENE OF LAUGHTER 

TO be sure there is the greatest 
diversity of taste in jokes, but 
everybody this whole round world over 
loves some kind of jokes. Even those 
who are witless and jokeless themselves 
enjoy fun-making in others. And as 
Eben Holden says, ''God Himself must 
think pretty middlin' well of fun since 
He give some of it to everybody." 

But it has taken the world these 
twenty centuries to place upon laughter 
— genuine, hearty laughter — a value in 
therapeutics, to consider it as a factor 
in health, both as a preventive and a 
restorative. 

"Laugh and grow fat," we have said 
just because fat people are always of the 
jolly, good-natured sort, to whom laugh- 
ter is most natural. We thin folk sup- 
posed they laughed because they felt 
well ; we did not know they felt well and 
grew fat because they laughed. That, 
however, is the new assertion of the 
medical fraternity. 

A young Italian physician. Dr. D'Aiu- 
tolo, was the first scientific student tO' 
call attention to the healing power of 
laughter in bronchial diseases. He de- 
clared this before the Medio-Chirurgical 
Society of Italy, and backed up the state- 
ment by producing patients cured en- 
tirely and solely by laughter purposely 
provoked. It seems that the shaking of 
the sides aids the expulsion of secretion 
and permits the oxygen of the air to dry 
up and heal the diseased cells. 

And not merely in lung diseases is it 
effacacious, for the side-splitting laugh- 
ter loosens the particles of decayed mat- 
ter in the muscles and hastens their 
discharge through the lymphatics. Thus 
disease germs are carried ofi: and the 
whole body is stronger and more im- 
mune from contagion. 

In times of epidemics and plagues, the 
people who manage to stay cheerful and 
jolly are the ones least apt to take the 
disease. 

But alas, grown people often forget 



so 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



how to laugh. Many have told me they 
''never laugh out loud," some seeming 
to feel it beneath their dignity, while 
others regret it as indeed they should. 
Every little child can laugh out loud, and 
their merry, natural peals always bring 
.a smile to the tired, care-lined face of 
those who have forgotten how to laugh. 

Of course, the world at large needs 
the cheer; but we ought to realize the 
individual, bodily need of it as well, and 
cultivate laughter as we would cultivate 
any other art or any other good habit, 
doing it for our own as well as our 
friends' sake. 

Wise were the ancient kings who kept 
their jesters and clowns ! We always 
supposed they were simply a fashion of 
the times, maintained to help pass the 
long, tedious hours and to liven up a 
stupid court ; but now it seems they were 
the real court doctors, doing their best 
to shake the sides of the lazy, gluttonous 
aristocrats. Queer how the instincts and 
desires of man, like those of the beast, 
preserved him before his intellect devel- 
oped sufficiently to teach him these 
things ! 

Still, though we of the twentieth cen- 
tury know these things, we go into sick 
rooms with sad, long-drawn faces and 
proffers of sympathy, instead of entering 
with all possible cheer, to tell our bright- 
est stories (providing the patient is in 
a state to listen), and doing our part to 
start the curative laughter. And we thin 
folk are still resorting to special foods 
and lotions, instead of getting fat in na- 
ture's own way. At all events we can 
"laugh and be well," so the up-to-date 
doctors tell us. l. m. c. 

BUSINESS AND MORALS 

THIS editorial is not paid for, a 
fact which we announce in ad- 
vance in order to save to our readers a 
few sarcastic post-cards and a number 
of two-cent stamps. It is written be- 
cause one good example is worth more 
than a hundred complaints. The Francis 
H. Leggett w^holesale grocery firm is 



among those manufacturers and sellers 
of food products who believe in keeping 
ahead of the law, not behind it, and it 
expresses its views in a most interesting 
series of announcements. It has ap- 
pealed to the club women of the country 
to use their power (which in a matter 
of this kind is vast) toward strengthen- 
ing the upward movement in food manu- 
facture. It has printed articles by Dr. 
Wiley and other well-known men. "The 
Premier Enquirer," as the Leggett 
monthly publication is called, goes even 
into such matters as a National Depart- 
ment of Health — indeed, into all aspects 
of the great central question — and treats 
them all with searching intelligence and 
thorough information. It has published, 
from its own expert some very remark- 
able essays on the reasons for seeking 
the best quality in food. For instance, 
take this answer to the woman who says 
prunes at ten cents a pound are good 
enough for her, so why pay fifteen? 

"She does not stop to think that in 
the ten-cent prune she is getting one 
hundred prunes to the pound, whereas 
in the fifteen-cent prune she is getting 
about forty-five prunes to the pound. 
For ten cents she gets one hundred 
wooden pits and one hundred skins. For 
fifteen cents she gets forty-five wooden 
pits only and but forty-five skins, and if 
she goes to the trouble to make the in- 
vestigation for herself, she will find that 
in purchasing the better prune at fifteen 
cents she will have about as much actual 
fruit as she would get in two pounds of 
the ten-cent article." 

Of course, as the public becomes edu- 
cated, the task of the highest grade mer- 
chant becomes easier. "The big suc- 
cesses of the future," says one of the 
Leggett advertisements, "in the grocery 
business, will be under the banners of 
pure food." The firm publishes a piece 
of fiction in which it makes a son say 
to his father: "I'd rather be a good 
grocer than president of the Union Pa- 
cific." — Collier s Weekly. 




PACKING THE LUNCH BASKET 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant, A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful. 



Jellied Macedoine in Tomatoes 
(Hors-D'Oeuvre) 

SELECT rather small tomatoes, 
somewhat firm and with smooth 
exterior. Cut out a small piece 
around the stem end, peel with care and 
take out the seeds. Mix together two 
or three truffles, cut in tiny cubes, one- 
fourth a cup, each, of cooked peas, green 
and yellow string beans, cut fine, aspara- 
gus tips, bits of celery, carrot or what- 
ever vegetable is at hand. To these add 
an equal measure of aspic jelly and 
mayonnaise dressing and stir over ice- 
water until beginning to set, then use to 
fill the tomatoes. Make smooth on the 
top and set aside on the ice for half an 
hour or longer. When ready to serve 
cut each tomato (with a knife dipped 
in hot water) in quarters. Serve on 
heart leaves of lettuce. Pass small 
sandwiches at the same time. 



Tomato Cocktail 

Select small, smooth and very choice 
tomatoes. Peel and chill them. When 
about ready to serve cut them in quar- 
ters through the stem and blossom ends, 
then cut these quarters in halves or 
thirds to make pieces of a size suitable 
for eating. Dispose these on crisp let- 
tuce hearts, set on a plate around a tall- 
stemed glass. Rub a bowl with a clove 
of garlic, cut in halves, add two table- 
spoonfuls of tomato catsup, one table- 
spoonful of mushroom catsup, one ta- 
blespoonful of lemon juice, one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce 
and two or three drops of tabasco sauce 
or one-fourth a teaspoonful of paprika; 
mix and turn into a tall glass. The 
pieces of tomato and the lettuce hearts 
are to be dipped into the sauce and eaten 
from an oyster fork. Six pieces of to- 
mato are enough for one service. 



82 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




TOMATO COCKTAIL 



Haddock with Mornay Sauce au 
Gratin 

To a pint of water, add an onion, 
peeled and cut in slices, three cloves, 
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a 
teaspoonful of salt and two or three 
sprigs of parsley; over this on a per- 
forated plate set a three-pound haddock, 
carefully cleaned and washed. Do not 
remove the head as it will improve the 
broth. Heat the water to the boiling 
point, then let simmer till the fish is 
done. Remove the fish and strain off 
the broth. Separate the fish, when cool 
enough to handle, into flakes. Measure 
the flakes and for a scant three cups 
make a pint of sauce. If there be more 
fish, provide sauce accordingly. For the 
sauce melt three tablespoonfuls of butter ; 
in it cook one-fourth a cup of flour, half 
a teaspoonful of salt and a scant half a 
teaspoonful of pepper ; add the fish broth 
(which should have been cooled in readi- 
ness) and stir until boiling; add two 
ounces, each, of Parmesan and Gruyere 
cheese and beat until the cheese is 
melted ; remove the sauce from the fire 
and beat in three tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, adding the butter in small pieces. 
Have ready about a quart of either 
plain mashed or Duchesse potato. Pipe 
the potato in au gratin dish to form a 
border about two inches high. Put a 



layer of sauce inside the border, on this 
spread a layer of the fish, and continue 
the layers, having the last one sauce. 
There should be at least half an inch 
of potato above the last layer of sauce 
that the sauce may not run over in the 
oven. Stir one-fourth a cup, each, of 
melted butter and grated cheese with one- 
third a cup of cracker crumbs and spread 
over the top of the sauce. Brush over 
the potato with the beaten yolk of an 
egg, diluted with two or three table- 
spoonfuls of milk, and set the dish into 
the oven to brown the edges of the po- 
tato and the crumbs. 

Stuffing for Baked Fish 

Mix in a bowl one cup and a half of 
soft bread crumbs, half a cup of melted 
butter, half a teaspoonful of black pep- 
per, one generous teaspoonful of chopped 
chives and sweet basil, half a teaspoonful 
of chopped parsley and a scant half a 
teaspoonful of salt. Two or three raw 
mushrooms, chopped fine, are a good 
addition to this stuffing; a tablespoonful 
of mushroom catsup may be used when 
fresh mushrooms are not available. 

Baked Bluefish 

When cleaning the fish keep the head 
and tail in place. Wash the cleaned fish 
and wipe dry. Rub the inside with salt 
and pepper and fill with the above stuf- 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



83 



fing. Sew up the opening to hold the results from the manner of dressing, 
stuffing in place. Cut three or four given above. Spread bread stuffing over 




HADDOCK, WITH MORNAY SAUCE AU GRATIN 



gashes through the flesh to the bone on 
each side of the fish and press a strip 
of fat salt pork in each. Run a trus- 
sing needle, threaded with twine, through 
the tail, the centre of the body, and the 
head, and tie the thread to secure the 
fish in the shape of the letter S. Bake 
in a moderate oven about half an hour, 
or until the flesh separates easily from 
the bones. Baste with hot fat each ten 
minutes. Remove the threads before 
sending to the table. Garnish with pars- 
ley. Serve drawn butter sauce in a 
bowl. 

Fillets of Bluefish, Baked 

When cleaning the fish discard the 
head and tail ; split the fish and take out 
the backbone with small bones attached 



the fish; over the stuffing set the other 
piece of fish, skin side upwards, to give 
the shape of the fish before cleaning. 
Sprinkle the flesh side of both pieces of 
fish with salt and pepper before setting 
them in place. Lay three or four thin 
slices of salt pork or bacon over the 
fish. Bake about forty minutes, basting 
four times with hot fat. When baked 
slide to a serving dish, garnish with 
parsley and slices of lemon. Serve drawn 
butter sauce in a bowl. 

Drawn Butter Sauce 

Melt three tablespoonf uls of butter ; in 
it cook one-fourth a cup of flour, and 
half a teaspoonful of salt; add two cups 
of cold water and stir over a quick fire 
until smooth and boiling, then remove 




BAKED BLUESISH 



to it. Lay thin slices of fat salt pork on a 
fish sheet, and on these dispose, skin side 
down, one of the pieces of fish, which 



from the fire and gradually beat in one- 
fourth a cup of butter. Lastly, add a 
tablespoonf ul of lemon juice. 



84 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Lobster, Clarence Style 

This dish is best when Hve lobsters 
are secured and boiled in court-bouillon. 
When cooked (about twenty-five min- 
utes) and cooled enough to handle, re- 
move the meat from the tail and claws, 



der. Turn the rice on a dish to make 
a flat oval shape and on this set the 
slices of lobster, one overlapping another, 
in a wreath shape; coat the lobster very 
thinly with the sauce and pour the rest 
around the rice. For a change dispose 
the rice in the cleaned shell of the lob- 



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LOBSTER, CLARENCE STYLE 



in whole pieces; slice these and keep 
them hot in a few tablespoonfuls of the 
court-bouillon. Remove the rest of the 
flesh and the creamy parts from the lob- 
ster; pound these together with one- 
fourth a cup of cream, then press 
through a sieve. Make one cup of sauce 
of two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter 
and flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful, 
each, of salt, curry powder and pepper 
and half a cup, each, of white broth and 
thin cream and add the sifted lobster 



ster, set the slices above, coat them with 
a little of the sauce and serve the rest 
in a bowl. 

Lobster Salad 

Cut a pared cucumber into small cubes, 
let stand in ice water to chill, then drain 
and dry on a cloth. To the cubes of 
cucumber add an equal measure of cold, 
asparagus tips and small, firm bits of the 
lobster. Season with salt, pepper, one 
tablespoonful of lemon juice and two of 




LOBSTER SALAD 



mixture. Have ready half a cup of rice, 
blanched and cooked tender in two cups 
of white broth with half a teaspoonful 
of salt and a teaspoonful of curry pow- 



olive oil. Turn upon a bed of heart 
leaves of lettuce. Set around the mound 
of salad, the lobster flesh taken from the 
large claws and the tail, in whole pieces. 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



85 



The meat from the tail should be cut in 
two or three pieces according to the 
number to be served. Press the coral 
and the creamy parts of the lobster 
through a sieve and gradually beat 
into about three-foui ths a cup of 
mayonnaise dressing ; add salt and 
pepper as needed Serve this sauce 
m a bowl. Ga'nish the salad with 
lengthwise quarters of peeled-and-chilled 
tomatoes. 

Poeled Chicken 

Truss a cleaned chicken as for roast- 
ing. The chicken may be stuffed or not 
as desired. Brush the bottom of an 
earthen casserole with butter ; into it 
slice one or two onions, two stalks of 



chicken broth to the vegetables in the 
casserole, let simmer ten minutes, and 
drain off the liquid, pressing out all the 
juice possible from the vegetables. Re- 
move the fat and use the liquid with 
flour cooked in butter for a sauce. 

Ham SouiHe 

Make a sauce using one-fourth a cup, 
each, of butter and flour, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and one cup, each, of 
chicken broth and cream. Into the sauce 
stir half a cup of soft, sifted bread 
crumbs, one chilli pepper, chopped fine, 
half a cup of grated Parmisan cheese, 
two cups of cooked ham, chopped fine, 
and the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, 
also salt if needed. Finally, fold in the 




SWEDISH TIMBALE IRONS, EDGING CASES WITH CHOPPED PISTACHIO NUTS 



celery and two young carrots ; on these 
lay three or four skewers, wooden ones 
preferred, and on the skewers set the 
chicken ; lay two or three slices of bacon 
over the chicken, cover and set to cook 
in a moderate oven. Have ready some 
hot fat — bacon or drippings, — baste the 
chicken with this each fifteen minutes 
and let cook about an hour and a half. 
Replace the cover each time after bast- 
ing. When the joints of the chicken may 
be separated easily, it is done. If the 
chicken is to be eaten hot, remove it and 
keep it hot while the sauce is made; if 
it is to be eaten cold, add the contents 
of the casserole to the soup kettle. To 
make the sauce add a cup of veal or 



whites of three eggs, beaten dry. Set 
the dish on many folds of paper in a 
baking pan and surround with boiling 
water. Let cook in the oven, keeping 
the water just below the boiling point 
(about 208° F) until the mixture is firm 
in the center. Serve in the baking dish 
with a sauce made of white broth, sea- 
soned with paprika or curry, or with a 
brown sauce, flavored with madeira or 
port. The hot orange sauce given on 
page X of the February, 1911, magazine 
is also suitable for this dish. 

Medallions of Sweetbreads, 
Berengere 

The ingredients needed are : one pair 



86 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



of sweetbreads, one cup of veal or 
chicken pulp, one unbeaten white of egg, 



forcemeat. Poach the forcemeat in a 
moderate oven. Butter the dish thor- 





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MEDALLIONS OF SWEETBREADS, BERANGERE 



one cup of unbeaten, but thick fresh 
cream, half a teaspoonful of salt, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of pepper, half a 
cup of cooked pickled tongue, chopped 
fine, a cup and a half of green pea puree 
for garnish, about a pint of cooked green 
peas, eight bread croutons and a cup 
and a half of Bechamel sauce. Cook 
the sweetbreads as in the recipe for 
''Glazed Sweetbreads with Canned Mush- 
rooms," but without larding or glazing 
them. Cut each sweetbread into four 
slices and trim them to the same shape 
with a round or oval cutter as is best 



oughly on which the medallions are set ; 
they are cooked when they feel firm to 
the touch. Pipe a star of green pea 
puree into the centre of each. Set the 
medallions on the croutons around a 
mound of green peas, well seasoned. 
Serve the sauce around the medallions 
or in a bowl. Use the ingredients given 
above, in making the forcemeat. Pre- 
pare as the forcemeat for '*Veal Quen- 
elles," except use only one white of egg, 
and add the cream unbeaten. Chill the 
mixture on ice after pressing it through 
the sieve, then beat in the cream very 




APPLE DUMPLINGS, HARD SAUCE 

suited to the pieces of sweetbread. On gradually, and fold in the chopped 
the edge of each medallion pipe a thick, tongue. The tongue may be omitted, 
but narrow, border of veal or chicken This forcemeat is not as delicate as that 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



87 



given for the quenelles. 

Spanish Omelet 

The mixture used in a Spanish omelet 
may be set aside in a cool place and kept 
for several days. Chop fine half a small 
onion and half a green or red pepper, 
also cut in thin slices enough raw or 
cooked ham to make two tablespoonf uls ; 
fry these in two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter or olive oil until the vegetables are 
softened and yellowed, stirring them 
meanwhile to avoid overcooking any part 
of them; add about a cup and a half of 
raw tomato, or rather less of cooked 
tomato. Use the fleshy part of the to- 
matoes, discarding seeds as far as pos- 
sible. Let simmer until the moisture is 
evaporated; add a teaspoonful of beef 



prepared mixture on the top of half 
the omelet, fold and turn upon a hot 
platter, surround with the rest of the 
mixture and serve at once. 

Stuffed Tomatoes 

Select smooth round tomatoes ; cut out 
a piece around the stem end, and with 
a spoon take out the centre to form a 
case. Set the cases upside down to drain. 
Discard all the seeds possible, and chop 
the pulp. Chop fine a slice of onion and 
one-fourth a pound of fresh mush- 
rooms — the equivalent of stems and peel- 
ings will answer. Put these over the 
fire in a frying pan containing one table- 
spoonful, each, of butter and olive oil ; 
let cook, stirring constantly, until the 
moisture is evaporated ; add the chopped 




APPLE DUMPLING, SYRUP AND BUTTER 



extract and a scant half a teaspoonful of 
salt. One or two fresh mushrooms, cut 
in fine shreds, may be added with the 
other vegetables. Beat four eggs with a 
spoon or fork until a full spoonful can 
be taken up ; add one-fourth a teaspoon- 
ful of salt and four tablespoonfuls of 
water and turn into a hot omelet pan in 
which a tablespoonful of butter has been 
melted. Shake the pan over the stove 
to keep the mixture sliding on it, tipping 
it, meanwhile, to let the uncooked part of 
the mixture down upon the pan. When 
creamy throughout, spread part of the 



tomato, three tablespoonfuls of brown 
sauce, and, if at hand, a piece of garlic 
the size of a pea, crushed thoroughly. 
Let simmer until well reduced; add salt 
and pepper and soft, sifted bread 
crumbs to make rather consistent. Use 
this to fill the tomatoes. Sprinkle the 
tops with crumbs mixed with butter. Set 
them, in a buttered agate pan, into the 
to cook until the tomatoes are 
Serve with or without a brown 
A brown sauce made of veal 
ood. Serve alone, or with 



oven 
done, 
sauce 
broth 



IS gc 



beefsteak. 



88 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Apple Dumplings 

Make flaky pastry, using two cups of 



three tablespoonfuls of water. Sift to- 
gether one cup and a half of sifted flour^ 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt and 




GELATINE BLANC MANGE, WITH BLACKBERRIES. 



flour, half a cup of shortening, and 
water as needed, folding in at the last 
two or three level tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter. Roll the pastry into a sheet and 
cut into rounds large enough to enclose 
an apple. Have ready some pared-and- 
cored apples, cooked in a cup, each, of 
sugar and water until tender but not 
broken, and then cooled. Set an apple 
on each piece of paste, and enclose it 
secure. Have the paste smooth on top, 
brush over with beaten yolk of egg and 
dredge with granulated sugar. Bake 
about fifteen minutes. Serve hot with 
hard sauce. 



three level teaspoonfuls of baking pow- 
der; with the tips of the fingers work 
in two or three tablespoonfuls of butter, 
then add milk, a little at a time, and 
with a knife work to a soft dough. 
Spread the dough over the prepared ap- 
ples. Bake about twenty-five minutes. 
Serve hot with butter and syrup. To 
serve, turn the dumpling from the dish 
so as to have the apple upwards. 

Gelatine Blanc ]Mange, with 
Blackberries 

The ingredients needed are one table- 
spoonful and a half of granulated gela- 





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BANANA SPLIT, NUT SUNDAE 



Apple Dumpling 

Slice four or five pared apples into 
a buttered dish, sprinkle with a scant 
half a teaspoonful of salt and two or 



tine, one-third a cup of cold milk, two 
and one-half cups of hot milk, one-third 
a cup of granulated sugar and half a 
teaspoonful of orange extract. Let the 
gelatine stand in the cold milk until the 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



89 



milk is absorbed; add the hot milk and 
the sugar and stir until dissolved ; strain, 
add the extract and turn into a mold. 
When cold and "set," unmold, surround 
with blackberries and serve with cream 
and sugar. 

Banana Sundae, Plain 

Select a small banana ; peel, scrape off 
the coarse threads and cut in halves, 
lengthwise. Set above the banana two 
mounds of vanilla ice cream, pipe a little 
whipped cream over each mound, sprinkle 
with grated sweet chocolate and set a 
maraschino cherry in the centre. 

Banana Nut Sundae 

Prepare the banana as above; set a 
mound of ice cream on each end of the 
banana; let one be of vanilla and the 
other of caramel ice cream; pipe 
whipped cream on the banana between 
the mounds of ice cream, pour caramel 
syrup over the vanilla cream and choco- 
late syrup over the caramel cream; 
sprinkle with chopped almonds, browned 
in the oven, and set a cherry on the top 
of the whipped cream. Serve these 
''banana splits" on oval or oblong dishes 
of glass or silver. 

Tea Punch 

Boil one quart of water and one cup 
of sugar fifteen minutes. Pour three 
cups of boiling water over six teaspoon- 
fuls of black tea, let steep five minutes, 
then strain into the syrup and set aside 
to become chilled. Wash carefully two 
lemons and one orange, then remove the 
thin yellow rind ; mix this with an equal 
bulk of sugar and let stand an hour or 
two; add half a cup of claret or water, 
let stand ten or fifteen minutes then 
pound with a pestle and press through 
a cheese cloth. Add this with the juice 
of the lemons and orange to the chilled 
syrup and tea, turn into glass jars, cover 
secure and let stand in the refrigerator 
until ready to use. Another half-cup 
of claret may be added, or the punch 
may be diluted a little with water. 



Mint Punch 

Shake together in a quart jar one cup 
of cold water, one cup of sugar and the 
leaves from a bunch of mint. When the 
sugar is dissolved, add the juice of six 
lemons and one cup of currant juice. 
Fill the jar with water and let chill on 
ice. When ready to serve add one pint 
of carbonated water. 

Grape Punch 

To one quart of grape juice, add the 
juice of four lemons and six oranges, 
with one cup of sugar; when the sugar 
is dissolved, add one quart of water and 
let chill on ice. When ready to serve 
add a few sprigs of mint. 

Lamb Noisettes, Berry Style 

Cut from a boned loin of lamb as 
many rounds as are desired; if needed, 
tie each with a bit of tape to hold it in 
shape while cooking. Saute the nois- 
ettes in clarified butter over a quick fire. 
Have ready small flat croquettes the 
same size and shape as the noisettes. 
Use for these croquettes duchesse po- 
tato mixture and sweet corn, cut from 
the cob without the hull. Take a gen- 
erous cup of the corn pulp for each pint 
of potato. The potato is prepared by 
beating two yolks of eggs into a pint of 
well-prepared, hot, mashed potato. When 
the croquettes are egged, crumbed and 
fried, set a noisette above each. Serve 
Chasseur sauce in a boat. 

Chasseur Sauce 

Chop fine three fresh mushrooms ; stir 
and cook in one tablespoonful, each, of 
olive oil and butter until browned a lit- 
tle ; add half a teaspoonful of grated 
onion, and half a cup of white wine and 
let reduce one-half ; add a cup of rich, 
brown stock and pour over three table- 
spoonfuls of butter; stir until boiling; 
add half a cup of hot tomato puree and 
a teaspoonful of beef extract; let sim- 
mer five minutes ; add a teaspoonful of 
fine-chopped parsley and serve. 



Menus for a Week in August 

" The products of protein metabolism are a constant menace to the well-being of the 
body, and any excess of protein over what the body actually needs is likely to be directly 
injurious." — Chittenden, 1905. 



Breakfast. 

Melon 

Lady Finger Rolls, Butter 

Coffee 

Dinner. 

Boiled Rice Sweet Corn on the Cob 

Poeled Chicken en Casserole 

Tomatoes, French Dressing with Onion 

Juice 

Peach Sherbet Cookies 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper. 

Hot Ham Sandwiches 

(Chafing dish) 

Sliced Peaches Cookies Iced Tea 



Breakfast. 

Creamed Salt Codfish on Toast 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

(Whole wheat flour) 

Coffee 

Dinner. 

Hamburg Roast, Tomato Sauce 

Baked Potatoes Buttered Beets 

Gelatine Blanc Mange, Sugar, Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper. 

Creamed Chicken on 

Green Corn Griddle Cakes 

Bread and Butter Berries Tea 



Breakfast. 

Spanish Omelet 

Fried Potatoes 

Corn Meal Muffins 

Dry Toast Coffee 

Dinner. 

Broiled Sword Fish 

Mashed Potatoes Pickled Beets 

Shell Beans, Stewed 

Apple Pie Cottage or Cream Cheese 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper. 

Green Corn Custard 

Graham Bread and Butter 

Apple Sauce 

Tea 



Breakfast. 

Eggs Cooked in the Shell 

Potatoes Hashed in Milk 

Pop Overs Berries 

Coffee 

Dinner. 

Corned Beef, Boiled 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes and Turnips 

Baked Indian Pudding (delicate) 

Half-Whipped Cream Coffee 

Supper. 

Stuffed Tomatoes 

Bread and Butter 

Sliced Peaches 

Chocolate Laver Cake Tea 



Breakfast. 

Corned Beef Hash 

(With Green Pepper) 

Broiled Tomatoes 

Yeast Rolls (reheated) Coffee 

Dinner. 

Baked Bluefish, Bread Dressing 

Drawn Butter Sauce 

Summer Squash 

Lettuce with Chopped Mustard Leaves, 

French Dressing 
Berry Pie Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper. 

Lettuce-and-Egg Salad 
Bread and Butter Berries Tea 



Breakfast. 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Green Corn Oysters 

Dry Toast 

Berries 

Coffee 

Dinner. 

Clam, Fish or Corn Chowder 

New Cucumber Pickles 

Apple Dumpling, Cottage Cheese 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper. 

Creamed Corned Beef 

(With Onion and Celery) 

Tiny Baking Powder Biscuit 

Cold Slaw 

Tea 



Breakfast. 

Broiled Bacon 
Plain French Omelet 

Graham Muffins 

Hot Baked Apples 

Coffee 



Dinner. Supper. 

Veal Cutlets, Breaded, Lettuce-and-String Bean Salad, 

Tomato Sauce French Dressing with Onion Juice 

String Beans Swiss Chard Rj'e Meal Muffins 

Cups of Junket with Cake Crumbs Sliced Peaches 

Half Cups of Coffee Tea 

90 



Menus for a Week in September 

'^Greater freedom from fatigue, greater aptitude for work, greater freedom from 
minor ailments have gradually become associated with lowered protein metabolism" — 
Chittenden. 



Breakfast. 

Broiled Honeycomb Tripe, 

Maitre d'Hotel Butter 

French Fried Potatoes 

Yeast Rolls (reheated) Honey Coffee 

Dinner. 

Fried Chicken, Corn Fritters 

Summer Squash, Sweet Pickled Pears 

Tomatoes, French Dressing 

Peach Ice Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee Sponge Cake 

Supper. 

Sardines, Olives 

Bread and Butter 

Peach Ice Cream (left over) 

Pineapple Juice 



Breakfast. 

Bacon, Baked Potatoes 

Dry Toast 

Blackberries 

Coffee 

Dinner. 

Breast of Veal, Stuffed and Poeled 

Mashed Potatoes 

Lima Beans, Stewed 

Endive, French Dressing 

Blushing Apples, Lemon Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper. 

Succotash 
Bread and Butter 
Cookies Tea 



Breakfast. 

Broiled Tomatoes on Toast, 

Cream Sauce 

Doughnuts 

Coffee 

Dinner. 

Veal Souffle, Tomato Sauce 

Green Peas Mashed Turnips 

Peach Pie, Half-Whipped Cream 

Coffee 

Supper. 

Welsh Rabbit 

Lettuce-and-Pineapple Salad or 

Canned Pineapple 

Ginger Ale 



Breakfast. 

Cold Boiled Ham 
Creamed Potatoes 



Fried Mush, Syrup 



Coffee 



Dinner. 

Boiled Fresh Haddock, Egg Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes 

Swiss Chard 

Coffee Jelly, Half-Whipped Cream 

Supper. 

Hot String or Shelled Beans 
Bread and Butter 
Cream Cheese 
Apple Sauce Tea 



Breakfast. 

Eggs Scrambled with Chopped Ham 

Yeast Rolls (reheated) 

Doughnuts Coffee 

Dinner. 

Broiled Beef Steak 

Baked Sweet Potatoes 

Celery 
Queen of Puddings 
Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper. 

Potatoes Scalloped with Onions and 

Cheese 

Rye Meal Muffins 

Sliced Peaches 

Gingerbread Tea 



Breakfast. 

Salt Codfish Balls, Sauce Tartare 

Buttered Toast 

Doughnuts Coffee 

Dinner. 

Oyster Stew 

New Pickles 

Cranberry Pie Edam Cheese 

Coffee 

Supper. 

Ham Souffle 

SHced Tomatoes 

Hot Apple Sauce 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Tea 



>^ I Breakfast. Dinner. 

^ Poached Eggs on Broiled Tomatoes Cheese Pudding 
Cream Toast ^-^ •- . ^ --r. 

Fried Mush 
Coffee 



Supper. 

Cream of Green Corn Soup 
Boiled Cauliflower Toasted Crackers 

Baked Apple Tapioca Pudding, Sliced Peaches 

Half-Whipped Cream Bread and Butter 

Coffee Tea 

91 



Inexpensive Hot Lunches for Automobile Parties 



(Quickly Prepared) 



I 

Mexican Rabbit with Poached Eggs 

Olives or Pickles 

Banana Split 

Chocolate Layer Cake 

Coffee 

II 

Creamed Chicken in Ramekins, 

Baking Powder Biscuit Above. Boiled Corn 

Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing 

Frozen Apricots (canned) 

Sponge Cake 

Coffee 

III 

Chicken or Veal Souffle, 

Tomato Sauce. Boiled Corn 

Lady Finger Rolls (reheated) 

Sliced Peaches 

Coffee 

IV 

Broiled Lamb Chops (loin) 

Creamed Potatoes. Green Peas 

Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing 

Toasted Crackers. Cheese 

Coffee 

V 

French Chicken Omelet 

Green Peas or String Beans 

Doughnuts 

Cocoa with Whipped Cream 



VI 

Creamed Corned Beef au Gratin 

Cold String Beans, French Dressing 

or 

Potato Salad 

Apple Pie 

Cheese 

Coffee 

VII 

Hamburg Steak 
Broiled Sweet Potatoes 

•Sliced Tomatoes 

Grape Juice Syllabub 

Coffee 

VIII 

Slice of Halibut, Sauted 

White Hashed Potatoes 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Lemon Sherbet 

Coffee 

IX 

Spanish Omelet. Corn on the Cob 

Parker House Rolls (reheated) 

Sugared Pineapple 

Tea 

X 

Corned Beef Potato-and-Green Pepper Hash 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Bread and Butter 

Cottage Pudding (reheated) 

Foamv Sauce Coffee 



92 



%»FfT^^ 



Catering for Automobile Parties 

By Janet M. Hill 



SEVERAL letters have been re- 
ceived asking help in planning in- 
expensive hot meals for automo- 
bile parties. This means providing meals 
for guests that may or may not come. 

At the outset this looks like an un- 
satisfactory matter to deal with, for 
there would seem to be an unmistakable 
note of possible disappointment in cater- 
ing for no one in particular. But if the 
house catering for automobile parties be 
well located, especially if it has a broad, 
shady piazza and a welcoming sign to 
attract attention, not many moons will 
wax and wane before refreshment will 
be sought thereat. The continuance of 
patronage will depend entirely upon the 
quahty of the food set before the guest, 
and the manner in which it is served. 
Still, at best, the element of chance enters 
more largely into such catering than it 
does where one is providing meals in a 
city cafeteria or restaurant, and the con- 
stant exercising of good judgment is 
more essential to making such a venture 
profitable. 

At the outset food must be largely 
such as can be cooked to order. Twenty 
minutes is needed for the making of a 
good cup of coffee, and this should be 
the limit of time spent in preparing the 
food. However, not even tea and toast 
can be served in twenty minutes, unless 
preparations be made as far as possible 
in advance, and then every motion taken 
must count for something definite. 

Early in the morning decide upon the 
food that is to be served during the 
day, and as far as possible make it 
ready for serving. 



By all means be able to make good 
bread and rolls of various kinds, and 
keep a generous supply on hand. Rolls, 
carefully reheated, are equal to those 
fresh made, and stale rather than fresh 
bread makes the best toast. These, with 
fresh eggs, choice tea and coffee, good 
milk and butter, are the main essentials 
for party meals. If the resources of a 
garden are at your disposal, so much the 
better, for many people, though they ride 
in automobiles, often do not know the 
taste of vegetables fresh from the gar- 
den; once having discovered the flavor, 
a return on another day is inevitable. 
Of course the peas must be shelled in 
advance, even though they may be left 
on your hands. But, after all, that is 
not hard luck, for if they are sweet, 
young and tender, as they should be, 
simply can them for winter use. Fill 
jars to the top with the peas, put on 
the covers (don't screw them down), 
and let them cook on the rack of a steam 
kettle one hour; remove the covers, add 
a teaspoonful of salt to each quart jar, 
fill to overflow with boiling water, adjust 
rubbers and covers (do not tighten the 
covers), and let cook another hour; 
tighten the covers and the work is done. 
If you yourself have no use for the 
canned article, rest assured that some one 
will gladly take them off your hands and 
pay you well for the labor. Once get 
started and the sale of cooked food to be 
carried away by your patrons will about 
equal that eaten at your house. 

Sandwiches should be a profitable ven- 
ture, carefully wrapped singly in waxed 
paper, and stored in a refrigerator, they 
93 



94 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



will keep fresh all day and may be eaten 
from the paper without coming in con- 
tact with the hand. For sandwich fill- 
ings there is great diversity. Keep on 
hand the means for at least one of the 
standard kinds, and then try for varieties 
a little out of the ordinary. Sliced meats 
for sandwiches must be tender, and can 
not be cut too thin. Ham that is not 
suitable for slicing may be put through 
a food chopper and used not only in 
sandwiches, but in scrambled eggs ; a 
little also, not too much, will improve a 
veal loaf. Cold, corned beef, provided it 
be nicely cooked, makes most appetising 
sandwiches, and yet one rarely sees them. 
Cheese of all sorts, cooked and uncooked, 
plain and with white pimentos or more 
fiery peppers, or with sliced nuts, can be 
used to advantage in sandwich making, 
and this is only a beginning of the sub- 
ject. Olives and tiny cucumber pickles 
go well with sandwiches, the latter your 
garden should supply ; while olives 
bought in bulk may be kept a year or 
longer, if a little olive oil be kept floating 
on the top of the brine in which they are 
stored. The oil excludes the air. A deep 
and rather narrow receptacle limits the 
quantity of oil needed. 

The main dish of the hot luncheon is 
the most difficult to decide on, but when 
one is in earnest and gives thought to the 
matter, such things are worked out more 
easily in the kitchen than on paper. The 
successes and failures of one day teach 
what is best to do on the next. This 
main hot dish should be of something 
other than a roast of beef, for a roast 
must be handled very carefully to secure 
a return of the money it costs, to say 
nothing of profit. If by chance such a 
roast be left on your hands, hot roast 
beef sandwiches provides the best way to 
utilize it. Slice the meat very thin, make 
it hot in a rich, brown sauce, and pour 
it over a slice of toast. Do not have too 
much sauce, and do not cook the meat 
in the sauce. Have the s^uce boiling, 
remove from the fire, put in the meat, 
let stand a minute onlv — then serve. 



Lamb chops can be broiled quickly, 
and, by partly preparing them in advance, 
what are called stuffed chops may be 
served. A variety of stuffings are avail- 
able, mashed potato, macaroni with 
cheese or mushrooms with onions are 
among the best. These should bring a 
fancy price, plain lamb chops being dear, 
and whether one serves them often or 
not will depend on the amount of money 
that the patrons of any special place are 
willing to pay. 

Every particle of flesh on a fowl or 
chicken can be utilized, and the bones, 
with a little fresh meat, make possible a 
really choice soup of corn, tomato or 
other variety of green vegetable. Poeled 
chickens or fowl "spend" better than 
tho-se that are roasted. Cooked at a low 
temperature, even the wings are juicy, 
but this slow cooking of meats — valu- 
able both for hygienic considerations and 
for profit — is a hard thing to teach. If 
the earthen receptacle in which the 
chickens are cooked have sufficient sur- 
face, two or three chickens can be 
cooked at the same time, and with no 
more fuel than is required for one. 
Poeled chickens can be cut and served 
hot after the manner of roasted chickens, 
or separated when cold into joints, may 
be dipped in hot water, rolled in flour 
and sauted in hot fat. The bits of meat 
picked from the large bones of the 
coarser pieces may be heated in a sauce 
for toast. A poached egg set above the 
meat will increase its value. Or these 
same pieces in sauce may be used alone, 
or with peas, to stuff and surround an 
omelet. 

This brings us to egg dishes, omelets 
and chafing dish preparations, which for 
many reasons must be the mainstay of 
those who cater to a wandering client- 
age. None other than a fresh egg can 
be poached successfully. With fresh 
eggs no poacher is needed, simply break 
the egg into the water and it will assume 
the shape it had in the shell. If a spatula 
be run under it as soon as it is set upon 
the bottom to loosen it from the pan, it 



CATERING FOR AUTOMOBILE PARTIES 



95 



may be cooked very uniformly through- 
out. Good corn-beef hash, creamed 
chicken or peas, with such an Qgg above, 
should be acceptable to the most finicky 
patron. Experience and a smooth pan 
are the essentials to success in omelet 
making. Give a choice of omelets, as 
Spanish, chicken, ham, bacon, green pea, 
etc., when convenient, but when hard 
pushed a plain omelet, with fried 
potatoes, will be received with favor. 
As a rule a French omelet is the more 
satisfactory, when nothing can be added 
in the way of enrichment or flavor. The 
long beating of the eggs for a puffy 
omelet renders it dry and rather tasteless. 

Rabbits for quick service should be 
made over the gas or ordinary range ; 
the usual chafing dish pan is a good 
utensil for this purpose, because it pre- 
sents a fair amount of surface to the 
heat, but the alcohol lamp is too slow. 
If a chafing dish be not available, a 
double boiler of ample size is the next 
best thing. There are novelties in rab- 
bits ; tomato rabbit is always good, and at 
this season a Mexican rabbit, in which 
green pepper, tomato and green corn 
pulp are ingredients, should be a favorite. 
For Golden Buck set a poached egg 
above the cheese mixture on the toast. 
For a higher priced dish, we suggest 
Yorkshire rabbit; this is Golden Buck 
with two sHces of carefully broiled 
bacon, one on either side of the egg. 

Cocoa, made of the powdered article 
at a moment's notice, can not be com- 
pared in mellowness and richness to 
cocoa made of a stock of cocoa-syrup 
kept on hand. The quantity of syrup 
prepared at one time should depend on 
the volume of business done, for the 
syrup will not keep indefinitely in hot 
weather. We append the recipe given 
in the March number of this magazine. 

Cocoa to Serv^e Thirty 

Put one cup and three-fourths of boil- 
ing water into a double boiler ; add three- 
fourths a cup of cocoa and let stand 



undisturbed till the cocoa is moistened; 
stir thoroughly, then add one cup and 
three-fourths of boiling water and stir 
again. Let cook one hour ; add two and 
one-half cups of sugar, stir till dissolved 
and let cook half an hour. When cold 
add half an ounce of vanilla extract and 
strain through cheese cloth. There will 
be one quart of cocoa syrup. This may 
be used at once or it may be set aside 
for use as needed. To serve two, divide 
one-fourth a cup of the syrup between 
two cups and pour three-fourths a cup 
of hot milk into each cup. Stir and it 
is ready. For thirty scald six quarts of 
milk in a large double boiler, add the 
quart of cocoa syrup, beat with spoon 
or egg-beater and serve at once. 

Cocoa to Serve 125 

Use one pound of cocoa, five pounds 
of granulated sugar, three and one-half 
quarts of boiling water and two ounces 
of vanilla. Prepare as above, putting 
half of the boiling water into the boiler 
at first. A spoonful of whipped cream 
or two marshmallows, floating on the top 
of the cocoa in each cup, are additions 
generally approved. 

Frozen desserts and cold beverages 
will be welcomed during the hot months. 
Ices frozen and packed in a fireless 
cooker, with ice unmixed with salt, will 
keep well over night. If the cooker is 
to be opened often during the day, some 
other means of keeping the ice frozen 
will be needed. Beverages chilled by 
contact with ice are much more hygienic 
than those to which crushed or broken 
ice is added. Glass fruit jars are con- 
venient receptacles for storing such 
drinks. Syrup and fruit juice only need 
be stored and chilled, unless it be that 
the water itself does not run cold. Fruit 
punch as also fruit ices are smoother 
and have more body, when syrup rather 
than sugar is used for sweetening. 
When possible let stand to ripen and 
mellow a day or two before adding the 
water. 



Lessons in Elementary Cooking 

By Mary Chandler Jones 

Teacher of Cookery in the Public Schools of Brookline, Mass. 

LESSON XII. 



Meat (Concluded) 

IN our study of meat cookery, we have 
now seen the quick cooking of meat 
in roasting and broiling, where the 
object is to retain the juices; and the prep- 
aration of soups ahd broths, in which we 
aim to extract the juice, leaving the 
meat comparatively dry and flavorless. 
In this lesson we shall examine the mak- 
ing of stews, both as to the objective 
point and in the method by which we 
may accomplish that end. 

In a stew, we wish both to extract 
and to retain the juices. The meat 
should be of good flavor and tender, 
while the liquor of the stew is also pal- 
atable and savory. Both parts are to 
be eaten and are of equal importance in 
the preparation and serving. If we re- 
member the fish chowder, it is possible 
for the pupils to suggest the way in 
which the stew is to be prepared and 
the proper temperature for its cooking. 

For a stew, we choose the tougher 
cuts of meat rather than the tender 
pieces needed for roasting and broiling. 
This we do because the long, slow cook- 
ing makes it possible to utilize the less 
expensive cuts, and, still more, because 
these cuts are really better in flavor 
than the tender portions. The reason 
for this we shall see later, in our study 
of marketing and the choice of meat 
for various purposes. 

With a stew may be combined many 
vegetables, varying the flavor of the 
dish at pleasure. Let the pupils make 
a list of the vegetables and herbs used 
to give savoriness to the stew, (^^^hich 
of these add to the food value and which 
are useful only as condiments? Which 
of the following vegetables may be 
added without previous cooking: pota- 



toes, carrots, onion, turnips and rice? 
Why must the potatoes be parboiled 
beforehand? Are potatoes and rice 
necessary in the same stew? Why?) 

The meat for a stew may be sauted 
or pan-broiled before being put into the 
cold water which is to form the liquor 
of the stew. In this way the flavor of 
the meat will be better but the juice 
will have less character. (Why? What 
would be the advantage in browning a 
part of the pieces of meat and letting 
the rest stand in the cold water to draw 
out the juice?) 

Lamb Stew 



U lbs. neck of lamb 
1 medium-sized onion 



4 potatoes 
Salt and pepper 



\Mpe the meat carefully and cut it 
off the bone. Cut the meat into pieces 
about one inch in size and place half 
of it, with the bones, in cold water to 
cover it. Let it stand at least thirty 
minutes and then bring slowly to the 
boiling point. Brown the remaining 
pieces of meat in a frying-pan with the 
onion and a little of the fat from the 
meat. Add this to the meat in the water 
and let it cook two or three hours in 
water just below the boiling point. (The 
meat may be cooked at this point in a 
double boiler, in which the water under- 
neath is kept boiling. This insures the 
non-boiling of the stew.) About one- 
half hour before serving, add the pota- 
toes, cut into half-inch dice, and already 
parboiled for five minutes. Add also 
carrots, cut into dice, if liked. Rice, if 
desired, should be washed and added so 
that it may cook with the stew for per- 
haps an hour. Why is such long cook- 
ing necessary in the stew, when rice will 
boil in a shorter time?) Tomato may 
be added just before serving, if desired. 



96 



LESSONS IN ELEMENTARY COOKING 



97 



Remove the bones, season with salt and 
pepper and serve hot. 

(Why is the meat cut for stew? Why 
is it not cut so small as for soup? 
Why is it allowed to stand in cold water ? 
Why is not the water allowed to boil? 
What is in the bones which makes it 
best for the water to come to a boil? 
Why is not the salt added until the stew 
is done?) 

Meat is preserved in many ways, such 
as drying, salting and smoking. These 
methods are frequently combined, so 
that smoked ham and dried beef are 
also salt. In preparing dried beef we 
remove a part of this salt by pouring 
boiling water over the meat and letting 
it stand ten minutes. As the water cools 
slowly the meat is not over-cooked, yet 
it is cooked slightly and the salt is drawn 
out. Sometimes the meat becomes even 
a little too fresh, but a new supply of 
salt may be added. 

Dried Beef in White Sauce 

1 box of dried beef I Salt and pepper 
1 cup of white sauce | 

Tear the beef into pieces with the 
fingers and remove pieces of membrane 
and extra fat. Cover with boiling water 
and let it stand ten minutes. Prepare 
the white sauce and stir the meat into 
it Let it be thoroughly heated, but do 
not let it boil. Season with salt and 
pepper and serve hot on toast. 

(Why not boil the dried beef in the 
white sauce?) 

The subject of marketing is too im- 
portant to pass by, yet too complicated 
and difficult to learn from any book or 
from pictures. It is best studied by 
experience in selecting meat, under the 
guidance and instruction of an honest, 
courteous and intelligent butcher. If it 
is possible for the teacher to take her 
class ''to market" under the teaching of 
such a man, this is undoubtedly the best 
way to gain a first knowledge of the 
cuts of meat, their uses and relative 
values. Even with such a beginning it 



will be necessary for the pupil to con- 
tinue and to observe, in order to keep 
and to perfect her knowledge by prac- 
tice. It is possible, however, for a pupil 
to have in mind certain general laws, 
which shall be of assistance in under- 
standing the structure of the animal and 
the consequent location of the different 
cuts. In different parts of the country 
these cuts are named variously and are 
somewhat differently divided, but their 
uses and relative values remain the 
same. 

If any museum of natural history be 
at hand, skeletons may be studied to 
advantage. The pupil may also imagine 
herself as standing on ''all fours" and 
compare the muscular portions of her 
own body with those of a four-footed 
creature, in a way that is helpful. She 
may, in this way, see where will be 
the less-used muscles, the greater pro- 
portion of flesh to bone and also the 
tough muscles and the bony portions. 

Muscles that are frequently used have 
a free flow of blood through them, in 
consequence of this exercise. (Let the 
pupils recall the glow of vigorous circu- 
lation that follows energetic work or 
play.) This frequent use of muscles 
also makes them hard and tough, as may 
be seen by feeling the upper-arm mus- 
cle of an athletic girl or boy and com- 
paring it with less-used muscle. By the 
same means, then, flesh becomes both 
tough and well-flavored. Let the pupils 
enumerate the muscular parts of their 
own bodies, which receive most exercise, 
and compare them with the neck, back 
and shoulder and leg portions of the 
ox. How many parts of an animal are 
likely to be tough? How many tender? 
Why is the tender meat more expensive 
meat? What advantages has tender 
meat over tough cuts ? What advantages 
has tough meat, aside from price? Con- 
sidering the price, which gives greater 
food value, a tough or tender piece of 
meat? In summer, would it be always 
economy, even in money, to buy a cheap 
piece of meat and cook it a long time? 



98 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



The beef-creature is cut into two por- 
tions, along the backbone, each of which 
is known as a ''side of beef." The sub- 
division of this side varies ; but, in gen- 
eral, we m'ay say that the back upper 
part of the creature yields the choicer, 
more expensive cuts, suitable for quick 
booking; while the portion toward the 
head and legs gives us the cuts used 
for stews, and broths. The most tender 
muscle, with the least flavor, is the hid- 
den muscle named in honor of its chief 
quality, the tenderloin. (Why is ten- 
derloin so costly a part of the animal?) 

The meat of young animals is more 
tender than that of older ones and of 
less good flavor. (From what has been 
said above, why should this be so? 
Would you select chicken or fowl for 
the preparation of broth for an invalid?) 
The more mature meat is also more 
nutritious and has better keeping qual- 



ities than that of young animals. 

By some study of plates and intelli- 
gent visits to the market the pupil may 
become familiar with meat and recog- 
nize the cuts at sight. It will still be 
necessary, for the best purchasing, for 
her personally to choose her cuts and 
inspect them upon delivery. A butcher 
prefers to serve an intelligent and ap- 
preciative customer rather than a care- 
less and unreasonable one, who scarcely 
knows when she is well served and who 
finds fault because she is too negligent 
to take proper care in ordering. 

Meat is too expensive a food to be 
carelessly purchased and ruined in the 
preparation. Probably many American 
families might, with advantage, reduce 
the amount of the meat-bill, both by 
eating less meat and by making more 
use of the less expensive cuts. 



The Fireless Cooker 

By W. J. MiskeUa 



RECENTLY, much interest in 
connection with the saving of 
fuel in the home has developed 
as a result of the activity that has been 
shown by the many manufacturers of 
fireless cookers, and those who use them 
do not, as a rule, have a clear idea of 
their structure and how food can be 
cooked in them without a fire. 

The remark has often been made that 
the name chosen for. a new device is the 
chief factor that marks its success or 
failure, and so it is in this case. The 
mere mention of the word ''fireless" at 
once places the enthusiastic supporter of 
this important addition to the list of 
modern culinary apparatus on the de- 
fensive, for the word, ''fireless," im- 
mediately becomes coupled, in the mind 
of the "listener," with the word, "im- 
possible." In fact, the word "impossi- 
ble" has predominated to such an extent 
that after several years of wide publicity 



there are yet many persons who cling 
to the fundamental idea that it is im- 
possible to cook without fire. The per- 
sons who hold to this rule are really in 
the right, because, in the so-called fireless 
cooker, there is an abundance of heat. 
The difference of opinion conies in over- 
looking the fact that the absence of fire 
does not necessarily mean the absence 
of heat. How much more logical and 
reasonable it would appear to the aver- 
age person, if, instead of speaking of 
"fireless cookers," they were referred to 
as "slow cookers" or "heat preservers." 

It is true that many good descriptions 
of the fireless cooker have been pub- 
lished, but, with all due respect to those 
who have endeavored to enlighten the 
public upon this new device in domestic 
science, none of the descriptions, at least 
none that have come to the writer's no- 
tice, have been definite and detailed 
enough to make the matter evident and 



THE FIRELESS COOKER 



99 



clear to all. 

The writer will endeavor to deal with 
this subject in elementary terms and to 
show, step by step, just what happens, 
and to contrast the ordinary results of 
cooking wth those that are obtained 
through the use of the fireless cooker. 

The thing that we are interested in 
primarily is heat. We speak of three 
kinds of heat; radiated, convected and 
conducted. Radiated heat is that trans- 
ferred through space from some heated 
body. The sun, for example, gives off 
radiated heat, which comes to us in the 
form of heat waves. The steam radia- 
tor or stove in our home gives off radia- 
ted heat, the waves of which we may 
readily observe on a clear, sunny day as 
they arise from the hot stove or radiator. 
Naturally, the nearer we get to the ra- 
diator, the more intense the heat is. 

Conducted heat is that transferred 
within the same body. If, for example, 
one end of an iron rod be held in the 
fire, or over a flame, the heat will, in a 
short time, be felt at the other end. The 
heat in this case, is said to be conducted 
from one end of the rod to the other. 
The iron rod is, therefore, said to be a 
good conductor of heat. Now, suppose 
that one end of a wooden broom handle 
be held in the fire; the other end will 
not even become warm, simply because 
wood is a poor conductor of heat. 

Convected heat is always associated 
with circulation. When the air of a 
room is heated by a stove, the air near- 
est the stove becomes heated first and 
then rises, while the colder air falls to 
take its charges of heat. This process 
goes on until all the air in the room is 
of uniform temperature. Water in a 
kettle is, likewise, heated by convection. 
The heated particles rise to the surface 
as fast as they are ''charged" with heat. 
It should be understood that there is a 
close relation between heat by radiation 
and heat by convection, but in order that 
this subject may be made as simple as 
possible, we will not attempt to distin- 
.guish them, but rather call them both 



radiated heat. 

The next thing we are concerned with 
is the stove ; and once more, for the sake 
of simplicity, we will consider a gas 
stove as the source of heat supply. Here, 
we have a flame under a kettle of cold 
water and in the water some potatoes or 
other edible, to be brought to the boiling 
point in water. If the burner be lighted, 
after a little, the water will begin to 
bubble on the surface. The temperature 
of the water has, therefore, been raised 
from 50 or 60 degrees to 212 degrees, 
that is the boiling point of water. It is 
impossible to make water any hotter, 
after it has once begun to boil. If the 
gas be turned up higher, the bubbles will 
become larger and the agitation more 
rapid, but the water will not become any 
hotter. 

It is necessary to note here that the 
bubbles referred to in connection with 
boiling, are not the little ones that appear 
around the edge of the kettle. These 
small bubbles break below the surface 
and the water is said to simmer, while 
the water is said to boil when the bub- 
bles grow large and the surface is com- 
pletely agitated. 

From this it is evident that there is 
a waste of gas, if the flame be turned 
higher than is necessary just to keep the 
bubbles moving. 

When the gas under the pan of pota- 
toes is lighted, the room, we will as- 
sume, is not noticeably warm, but at the 
end of half an hour, when the potatoes 
are cooked, the temperature of the 
kitchen will have risen considerably. As 
a matter of fact we do not light that gas 
burner to heat the kitchen. We simply 
desire to cook potatoes. Anyway, the 
kitchen does get much warmer. We will 
suppose further that the potatoes are re- 
moved from the pan and the water is 
allowed to remain in the kettle with the 
gas cut off. At the end of fifteen min- 
utes, it is found that the water has cooled 
to luke warm. 

To follow out our plan of reasoning, 
then, we must determine which kind of 



100 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



heat caused the change in the tempera- 
ture of the room, so we refer back to 
the definitions of the different kinds of 
heat and find that it was radiated heat, 
because it was transmitted through the 
air from the gas stove; and the fact is 
also evident that the nearer we approach 
the gas stove, the more noticeable the 
heat becomes. 

These are the facts to be remembered : 

First — That the kitchen gets consid- 
erably warmer. 

Second — That the potatoes cook in 
half an hour. 

Third — That the water cools consid- 
erably in fifteen minutes. 

Fourth — That the heat becomes more 
and more intense as we approach the 
stove from a remote corner of the room. 

We will now notice what happens in 
the fireless cooker. A fireless cooker 
consists simply of a metal-lined box hav- 
ing thick double walls. That is all there 
is to it — nothing more. In order to 
have the walls thick the space between 
the inner and outer sides is filled with 
some sort of packing material, the one 
requirement of which is that it shall be 
a poor conductor of heat, such, for ex- 
ample, as paper, wood, shavings, wool, 
etc. 

The heat escapes from the cooker very 
slowly through these thick walls in the 
form of conducted heat, that kind of 
heat that escapes from one end of a 
wooden broom handle, when the other 
end is held in the fire as previously re- 
ferred to. The theory is that the heat 
passes through the air in the form of 
waves. If all the air be removed from 
the space between the walls of the fire- 
less cooker, a vacuum will result and 
the effect will be that very little heat can 
pass. It is, however, very difficult to 
maintain a vacuum permanently without 
making the cost of the cooker prohibitive, 
so we must seek the best substitute to 
place between the walls of the fireless 
cooker. Mineral wool, a material re- 
sembling spun glass, is made up of a 
large number of very closely packed 



hairs, and is a very poor conductor of 
heat. When this material is used, it 
separates the air between the walls of 
the fireless cooker into such a large 
number of little individual cells that the 
waves of heat are almost entirely pre- 
vented from making progress, and it 
takes hours for the heat to escape — the 
same heat that would otherwise serve 
to heat the kitchen. It is a fact that 
much of the heat does finally succeed 
in escaping from its little prison, but it 
escapes so gradually and so slowly and 
is conducted off in such a regiilar, quiet 
way that, ordinarily, it is impossible to 
notice any change in temperature. Con- 
trast this with the case where the vessel 
is being heated on the stove, in the or- 
dinary way, and where the heat escapes 
with such freedom and rapidity that the 
cook is often driven from the room to 
seek a few drafts of cool, refreshing 
air. 

The instructions given with the fire- 
less cookers are to boil the potatoes for 
ten minutes and then quickly place the 
pot that contains them in one of the 
compartments of the cooker. As a mat- 
ter of fact, it is not necessary to boil 
the food for even one minute after the 
vessel has been brought to a boil and the 
contents have become thoroughly heated. 
The manufacturers simply place the 
mnimum time limit on the boiling so that 
the user will be sure to impart the maxi- 
mum degree of heat possible to the ves- 
sel before it is placed in the cooker. It 
is, however, very important to make the 
change from the stove to the cooker very, 
very rapidly, since the heat escapes so 
quickly in the open air. 

We now have the heated vessel in- 
closed in an air-tight box, where, in or- 
der for any of the heat to get away, it 
must pass through the thick walls made 
of a material that is a poor conductor 
of heat. 

Then, instead of requiring half an 
hour to cook over the gas burner, with 
a constant supply of fuel, it requires 
about one hour for the potatoes to cook 



THE VOYAGE OF LIFE 



101 



in the fireless cooker, without any con- 
stant supply of fuel. Also where it takes 
the water fifteen minutes to cool after 
the potatoes have been removed, as re- 
ferred to above, it takes five hours for 
the same change to take place in the fire- 
less cooker. In the one case, then, the 
potatoes are cooked in a hurry with a 
great loss of heat and with a considerable 
consumption of gas, while, in the other, 
the cooking is prolonged over a period of 
an hour or more. By one method the 
odors given off by the different foods are 
allowed to escape and penetrate the at- 
mosphere of the house, while by the 
other method the odors are confined as 
the heat so that they cannot get out, with 
the result that the original flavor of the 
food is retained, even in "the case of po- 
tatoes. In one case, the rapid agitation 
in connection with boiling tends to dis- 
integrate the food, while, in the case of 
the fireless cooker, there is no agitation 
to cause disintergration, and as a result 
the food comes out of the fireless cooker 
in almost its original form. 

It is necessary to have the cooking 



vessel used in the fireless cooker so ar- 
ranged that the lid can be secured to it, 
in order to keep in as much of the steam 
and heat as possible. 

Almost anything may be used as a 
filling between the walls of the cooker, 
such, for example, as paper, cork, saw- 
dust, shavings, and so forth, but the best 
materials, as stated above, are mineral 
wool or asbestos. To give an idea of 
what difference the packing material 
makes, the potatoes would probably take 
three hours to cook, if the packing were 
of paper, whereas they will cook in only 
one hour, where a mineral wool packing 
is used. 

Unfortunately some cookers that are 
made and offered for sale are packed 
with the poorer materials. Strangely 
enough, the cooker works in a sort of 
a way, no matter what the packing is 
and, therefore, some pleasing results may 
often be had from the cooker made with 
the poorer packings, but the best re- 
sults and greatest satisfaction are ob- 
tained from those in which the very best 
materials for the purpose are used. 



The Voyage of Life 

Life is a voyage. The winds of life come 

strong 
From every point; yet each will speed thy 

course along, 
If thou with steady hand when tempests blow, 
Canst keep thy course aright and never once 

let go. 

Life is a voyage. Ask not the port unkxiown 
Whither thy Captain guides his storm-tossed 

vessel on ; 
Nor tremble thou lest mast should snap and 

reel ; 
But note his orders well, and mind, unmoved, 

thy wheel. 

Life's voyage is on the vast, unfathomed sea 
Whereof the tides are times, the shores, 

eternity ; 
Seek not with plummet, when the great waves 

roll, 
But by the stars in heaven mark which way 

sails thy soul. 

—Theodore C. Williams, in "Poems of Belief." 



Practical Home Dietetics 



By Minnie Geneviev^e Morse 



IV. Diet in Chronic Kidney 
Disorders 

THERE is, perhaps, no sort of 
protracted illness in which the 
household provider finds it a 
more difficult task to arrange an ap- 
propriate and yet sufficient and varied 
menu for the invalid, than in chronic 
disorders of the urinary system. To 
keep up the patient's strength through 
months and years of such illness, with- 
out influencing his condition for the 
worse by feeding him too generously 
or allowing him articles of food that 
will prove irritating to the already 
weakened excreting organs, is often a 
very serious problem even to the 
trained dietitian. In kidney diseases 
of shorter duration, a semi-starvation 
diet may do little harm, as the reserve 
fuel stored in the body will support it 
for some time, but when a disorder is 
likely to extend over a considerable 
term of years, it is decidedly another 
story. 

Patients with long-standing kidney 
affections, who are not greatly incon- 
venienced by their condition, but are, 
perhaps, able to lead a moderately ac- 
tive life, often chafe a good deal at 
being deprived of certain kinds of food, 
and think it would do them no real 
harm to indulge in the pleasures of the 
table that they see others around them 
enjoying. But while the forces of dis- 
ease may work silently, their action is 
none the less sure, and injudicious in- 
dulgence in articles of food that will 
overwork organs, whose capacity for 
work is already impaired, may not only 
produce an increase of discomfort, but 
mean the more rapid progress of the 
disease. 

The principal affections of the urin- 
ary system that are of long duration 
are Bright's disease, a tendency to 



renal calculi, popularly spoken of as 
stone in the kidneys, or ''gravel," and 
diabetes mellitus, which is not a dis- 
ease of the kidneys at all, but is often 
considered under the head of urinary 
disorders, because its best-recognized 
symptom is the constant appearance 
of considerable quantities of sugar in 
the urine. In all of these diseases, 
much more can be done for the patient 
by means of careful dieting than by 
drugs or any other remedial measure, 
and cheerful co-operation on the part 
of the sufferer and the exercise of in- 
genuity and planning on the part of those 
who prepare his meals are most material 
aids in rendering his condition as toler- 
able as possible. 

It is impossible to avoid the use of a 
few long technical terms, in speaking of 
kidney diseases, but their meaning is 
simple enough, and can be readily ex- 
plained by a few words of description 
of the structure and functions of the 
kidneys. The latter are two bean-shaped 
organs, lying one on each side of the 
body, which have as their special work 
the removal from the blood of the waste 
substances which are ready to be carried 
oft* from the body. These are mainly 
the end products of nitrogenous foods. 
The outer part of the kidney consists of 
a very complex tubular structure, in 
which highly specialized cells come in 
contact with minute blood vessels, with- 
drawing from the blood current its waste 
material, which is drained through the 
tubules into the central cavity or pelvis 
of the kidney, and passes thence through 
the long pipes known as ureters into the 
bladder, and so out of the body. When 
this working tissue of the kidneys be- 
comes inflamed or deteriorated, the elim- 
ination of waste products is not properly 
carried on. When the principal waste 
substance, called urea, fails to pass off 
through this elaborate drainage system. 



102 



PRACTICAL HOME DIETETICS 



103 



it accumulates in the body and poisons 
it, causing what we know as uremia, or 
uremic poisoning. When the weakened 
cells allow the albuminous matter in the 
blood, which is intended to nourish the 
body, to leak through into the kidneys, 
we have albumin in the urine, or album- 
inuria. If the kidneys become too weak 
even to properly carry off the water 
taken into the system, the quantity of 
urine becomes much reduced, and the 
surplus water leaks into the tissues of 
the body, producing what we know as 
dropsy, or edema. The term Bright's 
disease, or nephritis, — the latter meaning 
simply an inflammation of the kidneys, — 
is used to cover a number of different 
affections, acute and chronic. 

Chronic parenchymatous nephritis is 
a long-continuing inflammation of the 
parenchyma or working tissues of the 
kidneys. These become so inflamed and 
deteriorated that they become less able 
to select the waste material from the 
blood current, but allow other constitu- 
ents of the blood to exude into the tiny 
tubules, which often become considerably 
choked by this exudation and the degen- 
erated cells from their own interior. 
These disease products frequently form 
a false lining to the tubules, which often 
comes away in a perfect form; these are 
the "casts" found in the urine of patients 
with this form of disease. 

Chronic interstitial nephritis is a dis- 
ease characterized less by active inflam- 
mation and more by atrophy than the 
above. There is an overgrowth of the 
interstitial or connective tissue surround- 
ing the working portions of the kidneys, 
and a shrinking and degeneration of the 
working tissues themselves. While the 
former type of disorder is liable to at- 
tack the young and middle-aged, this 
latter is distinctly a disease of the elder- 
ly, whose vital organs all show more or 
less tendency to atrophy and degenera- 
tive changes. Its course is longer than 
the parenchymatous form, sometimes 
continuing as long as twenty-five or 
thirty years. 



It can be readily seen that in both of 
these conditions the kidneys are greatly 
embarressed in doing their duty, and, as 
in the case of any other part of the body 
that is out of order, the indication is to 
rest the organ concerned, as far as is 
possible. It is, of course, impracticable 
to rest such hard-worked organs as the 
kidneys in the sense that one can rest a 
broken arm; all that can be done is to 
reduce their work to the minimum that 
is consistent with the maintenance of 
life and a fair degree of strength, and 
this is to be done almost entirely by 
means of diet. 

Unfortunately, it is that very impor- 
tant and necessary class of foods known 
as the "tissue builders" which puts the 
most work upon the kidneys : the pro- 
teids, or nitrogenous foods, afnong which 
meat, eggs, and milk hold the leading 
places. The red meats are the worst of 
all, owing to certain irritating extractives 
that are derived from them. When 
the kidneys are known to be working 
badly, the patient is usually put on an 
exclusively milk diet for a certain num- 
ber of weeks, until his condition im- 
proves. While milk contains nitrogen- 
ous material, it is in such a bland form,, 
and contained in such a large proportion 
of water, that its end products are more 
easily carried off by the kidneys than 
those of other nitrogenous foods. Fur- 
thermore, milk is our most nearly per- 
fect food, and will of itself sustain life, 
if given in sufficient quantities. But in 
a disease of long duration, a patient who 
is able to be up and about, and perhaps 
even to lead a moderately active life, 
is obliged to take such a large amount 
of milk in the twenty-four hours, in or- 
der to keep up his strength, that a strong 
distaste for it is likely to result, with 
various digestive disturbances. If, on 
account of certain unfavorable symp- 
toms, the milk diet must be continued 
for a long time, the monotony of taking 
plain milk may be varied by giving it as 
very weak tea or coffee, flavored with 
lemon or orange, in the form of junket. 



104 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



or even, under proper conditions, thick- 
ened with rice, tapioca, or sago. When 
a fair amount of farinaceous food can 
be allowed, a great deal of milk may be 
given in the form of gruels, soups, and 
puddings of which milk is the basis. 
Many patients are contented on a diet 
composed principally of bread and milk. 
When the patient is allowed, in addition 
to a certain number of glasses of milk, 
such articles as the cream soups, purees 
of potatoes or celery, rice and bread and 
other milk puddings, and the various 
breakfast cereals, a sufficiently varied 
menu can be arranged to prevent the 
patient's tiring of any one article of food. 
The number of meals to be provided, and 
the amount of milk and other food to 
be taken, are, of course, prescribed by 
the physician in charge, and there should 
be no deviations from his orders. 

Chronic kidney disease cannot be 
cured, but there is often a great im- 
provement in the patient's condition, and 
under such circumstances most physi- 
cians allow a fairly general diet; not 
dispensing with the milk altogether, ex- 
cept in those rare cases where some per- 
sonal idiosyncrasy makes its use unwise, 
but replacing it in part by more hearty 
food. This mixed diet usually includes 
broths, with barley or rice ; soups made 
from fish and certain vegetables ; fresh 
fish, boiled or broiled, but never fried ; 
chicken or game, in small quantities, and 
fat bacon; almost all kinds of bread- 
stuffs, when not too fresh, and all kinds 
of cereals ; almost all kinds of vegetables, 
except peas and beans, which contain a 
form of albumin which puts extra work 
on the kidneys; fruits, both raw and 
cooked ; and the numerous milk puddings 
mentioned above. With this wide range 
of foods to select from, very attractive 
and varied menus can be prepared, the 
principal deprivation being the absence 
of red meats. Even these are often al- 
lowed in favorable cases, in small quan- 
tities, given not oftener than once a day. 
In preparing broths, care should be 
taken not to make them too rich, nor to 



allow them to contain too much meat 
juice. Fried and greasy foods, rich and 
highly-seasoned dishes, and all pastries 
and fancy desserts, should be omitted 
from the menu; they are difficult of 
digestion, and articles of food that con- 
tain spices and condiments are irritating 
to the weakened kidneys. The quantity 
of salt eaten should be small, as it, also, 
has an irritating effect. Alcohol in any 
form should be prohibited, save in ex- 
ceptional cases, but most authorities con- 
tend that a morning cup of coffee may 
safely be taken. 

As in all other forms of illness, the 
perfection with which the invalid's meals 
are prepared, and the daintiness with 
which they are served, have a very 
strong influence upon the appeal which 
they make to his appetite. Even a very 
simple meal can be made to appear at- 
tractive by the use of pretty china, glass, 
and silver, and dainty and spotless linen. 
When only the ever-present glass of milk 
can be taken, it seems less monotonous, 
if presented to the invalid in glasses and 
cups of different color and design. 

Large quantities of water were for- 
merly given to patients with kidney dis- 
orders, in the effort to wash out the ac- 
cumulations in the tubules, and to dilute 
the materials that must be carried off in 
the urine. It is possible, however, for 
the kidneys to be in such condition that 
they cannot even excrete water without 
difficulty; the urine becomes scanty, and 
the patent grows dropsical from the 
leakage of the surplus water into the 
tissues. Physicians are, of course, gov- 
erned in this matter by the patient's con- 
dition, and strict adherence to medical 
orders along this line is very important. 
Next to pure water, lemonade is perhaps 
the most highly recommended drink in 
kidney diseases. 

Renal calculi, or stone or gravel in the 
kidney, are the result of the precipitation 
of some of the solid constituents in the 
urine, most frequently uric acid. They 
may be so small as to be scarcely no- 
ticed, or so large as to cause intense 



PRACTICAL HOME DIETETICS 



105 



suffering in their passage through the 
tubes leading from the kidney to the 
bladder. Or they may become embedded 
in the kidney itself. When there is a 
tendency to this sort of trouble, over- 
eating should be carefully avoided, and 
but little meat should be taken, owing 
to the ready formation of uric acid from 
it. Highly-seasoned food, strong condi- 
ments, and foods that are likely to 
cause acid dyspepsia should be avoided. 
On the other hand, the free drinking of 
pure spring water and such alkaline 
waters as Carlsbad, Vichy, and the car- 
bonated waters helps to counteract the 
tendency to acid precipitation, and to 
dissolve and disintegrate such stones as 
may be forming. 

The housewife whose family includes 
a person suffering from diabetes mellitus 
has her ingenuity even more severely 
taxed, in the providing of a suitable 
menu, than the one who has to arrange 
the meals for a case of chronic Bright's 
disease. Diabetes, as stated above, is not 
a disease of the kidneys, but one in 
which, owing to the defective working 
cf some other organ, — frequently the 
liver or pancreas, but sometimes the 
cause is more obscure, — there is the pas- 
sage of large quantities of urine contain- 
ing sugar. There is usually extreme 
thirst, and the patient loses weight and 
strength. 

Someone has said that the care of the 
diabetic should be pretty evenly divided 
b'itween his doctor and his cook; and 
certainly the two should be in very close 
touch, for upon the diet rests the burden 
of reducing the abnormal excretion of 
sugar; and yet cases vary so much that 
the treatment best fitted for one patient 
will not be at all the right thing for 
another. Sugar is made in the body not 
only from sweet foods, but also from 
those which contain starch, and it is these 
two classes of foods which make bodily 
fat, as well as supply heat and energy 
by their combustion in the system. Stout 
and vigorous persons may be actually 
benefited by a decrease in this sort of 



food, but the effect on the thin and feeble 
will be very different, and a diet strict 
enough to lessen greatly the amount of 
sugar in the urine may absolutely endan- 
ger the life of such a patient. Most care- 
ful instructions must be given by the 
physician in charge to the one who is 
responsible for the diabetic's meals. 

In general, however, the diet is one 
from which sugar in all forms, ordinary 
kinds of bread-stuffs, starchy vegetables,, 
cereals, and sweet fruits are excluded. 
Along other lines, the variety allowed 
is considerable. All the soups and broths, 
without farinaceous ingredients, may 
form a part of the menu; all kinds of 
fish, when prepared without a dressing 
containing flour ; eggs in all styles ; prac- 
tically all kinds of meat, unless cooked 
in flour or bread or cracker crumbs ; 
fresh vegetables like string beans, let- 
tuce, spinach, onions, celery, and cucum- 
bers ; the fruits containing least sugar, 
like oranges, grape-fruit, lemons, sour 
apples, peaches, and almost all kinds of 
berries ; and oily nuts such as almonds, 
walnuts, filberts, and Brazil nuts. 

The most serious deprivation is that 
of white bread, that "staff of life" that 
we use so constantly, and which helps 
to round out so many insufficient meals. 
Various special kinds of breads made 
from gluten flour, almond meal, and 
other preparations supposed to be com- 
paratively free from starch, are often 
used in diabetes, and the preparation 
known as "gum gluten" can be used not 
only for bread, muffins, and wafers, but 
also as a breakfast food and in the form 
of macaroni. These diabetic flours all 
have certain disadvantages, however, and 
some physicians prefer to allow a small 
quantity of ordinary bread or crackers. 

The natural craving for sweets and for 
a dessert course at dinner can be met by 
using small quantities of saccharin or 
sweetina. Both of these are coal-tar 
products much sweeter than sugar, 
which can be used in tea or coffee, or 
added to desserts after they are cooked. 
Custards and jellies can be sweetened in 



106 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



this manner, and whipped-cream des- 
serts made in a similar way are specially 
useful for dabetics, as a good deal of 
fat is necessary in this disease, to take 
the place of the forbidden sweet and 
starchy foods in supplying heat and en- 
ergy to the body. One authority says 
that the diabetic should take not less 
than a quarter a pound of butter and half 
a pint of cream a day. Other useful 
fat foods are olive oil, cheese, bacon, 
and oily fish. 

Lunches midway between the regular 
meals are desirable in diabetes, and 
there should be as much variety as pos- 
sible in these, as well as in the more elab- 
orate meals. 

The excessive thirst accompanying 
diabetes necessitates drinking a good 



deal of water and other beverages ; and 
while a reasonable moderation should be 
observed, much restriction leads to such 
actual suffering as sometimes to serious- 
ly affect the nervous system. Dr. W. 
Oilman Thompson, the dietetic author- 
ity, suggests that "the patient should 
drink only frorn a small glass, for there 
is more satisfaction in draining it than 
in taking the same quantity of fluid from 
a large glass that one is not allowed 
to empty." Tea and coffee are allowable 
beverages, as are various forms of lemon 
and orangeade ; the latter may be made 
really nourishing drinks by the addition 
of the white of an tgg. Such alkaline 
mineral waters as A^icliy and Apollinaris 
seem to be of especial benefit in diabetes. 



Hush-A-Bye-Bye 

B}' Ruth Raymond 

Hnsh-a-bye baby, the sun going down 
Decks all the mountains with prismatic crown, 
While in the valleys the shadows are gray 
Closing the gates to the glory of day ; 
Over the meadows the cool zephyrs sigh 
Kissing the daisies, with hush-a-bye-bye. 

Hush-a-bye baby, the dewy red rose 
Closes its petals in silent repose, 
And lilies are sleeping in garments of white 
As over them gathers the mantle of night. 
The bees are aweary, but homeward they fly, 
\Miile birds in the tree-tops sing hush-a-bye- 
bye. 

Hush-a-bye baby, in fair cradle boat 
Xow you are smiling, and soon you will float 
Over the billows that break on the sand, 
Silver and golden, of sweet Slumber Land. 
^Mother waits near all your wants to supply, 
Softly repeating, .a hush-a-bye-bye. 




I 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 

paid for at reasonable rates. • 



Chocolate Cake for Thirty People 



2 cups of sugar 
i a cup of butter 

2 egg yolks 

1 cup of hot water 

3 cups of sifted flour 
3 teaspoonfuls of bak- 



ing powder 
'} a cake of chocolate 
2 teaspoonfuls of va- 
nilla 
i a teaspoonful of 
salt 



CREAM the butter ; add one cup of 
sugar and the egg yolks, beaten 
very hght. Dissolve the chocolate in a 
dish placed over a pan of hot water ; add 
one cup of sugar, the hot water, and let 
come to a boil; stir into first mixture. 
Sift in flour, baking powder, and salt ; 
add vanilla. Beat mixture thoroughly 
until air bubbles appear. Fill buttered 
cake pans about one and one-half inches 
thick with cake dough. If thicker than 
this, too hot an oven will be required to 
bake it, and it will burn. Bake in a 
moderate oven thirty to forty minutes, 
or until when pressed lightly with the 
finger the cake will spring back. 

Frosting 

Cook two cups of sugar and one cup 
of water until syrup will make a thread 
three inches long when dropped from 
tip of spoon. Beat the whites of two 
eggs very stiff. Pour syrup in tiny 
stream over beaten whites, beating mix- 
ture constantly ; add two teaspoonfuls of 
vanilla, and continue beating until of 
right consistency to spread. 

One ounce of melted chocolate may 
be mixed with one-half of the frosting 
as soon as syrup is poured over beaten 
eggs. Cover cake first with white frost- 
ing and allow to dry; meanwhile, keep 



dish containing chocolate frosting in a 
pan of warm water to prevent becoming 
too hard. When first frosting is dry, 
cover with chocolate frosting. 

Boston Stew 

One slice, or more, of round steak. 
Trim off the fat. Place it, the marrow 
from the bone, two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, and one small onion into a kettle 
and fry a few minutes. Cut meat in 
pieces about three inches long, and two 
or three inches wide. Put in the kettle 
and fry on both sides until slightly 
brown. Add water to a little more than 
cover the meat, and a little salt. Cover 
and let stew slowly for about an hour 
or until meat is tender, adding hot water 
from time to time as needed. When 
meat is tender, thicken the gravy. Use 
three level tablespoonfuls of flour, mixed 
to a thin paste with water or milk, to 
every pint of liquor. m. v. m, 

^ ^ ^ 

Coffee Making . 

MY dear Mrs. Hill: I notice 
some correspondence in the 
magazine in regard to the making 
of coffee, and, from some of your replies, 
it seems to me that you have not got as 
close to the secret of good coffee as I 
have, which makes me wish to pass on 
to you what I have learned from others, 
and from experimenting myself. The 
followng definite rule was given me by 
a Southern lady of the old school, one 
who recognized the fact that the cook 
had not scalded the pot, or had shortened 



107 



108 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



the simmering time by five minutes. 

To one cup of ground coffee add one- 
third of an egg, yolk and white stirred 
together, with just enough water to en- 
able you to measure it out in teaspoon- 
fuls by eye. Add a spoonful or two 
of water, if necessary, to moisten cofifee 
thoroughly. Pour on five cups of boiHng 
water. Bring to a boil as soon as pos- 
sible. (This is important). Boil one 
minute — two minutes — three minutes — 
according to your own taste, but never 
more than three minutes. Pour in one- 
half a cup of cold water to check the 
boihng. Move to part of stove where it 
will simmer very slowly for twenty min- 
utes. 

By much personal experimentation I 
have satisfied myself on the following 
points. The quick bringing to a boil is 
what gives the bright, fresh flavor. The 
long simmering gives the mellowness. 
For the first reason, we make it with the 
hottest water possible. Just as good cof- 
fee can be made with cold water, if you 
have, as on a picnic, a hot flame and 
wide-bottomed, shallow receptacle for 
the coffee. But made in the ordinary 
cylindrical coflee pot, over the ordinary 
heat of the stove, you will have "dead" 
coffee, if a cold or lukewarm mixture 
works its slow way to a boiling point. 
And it will have a ''sharp" taste, if not 
given the proper amount of simmering. 

Salad of Cherries and Cheese 

PROCURE large, black, canned cher- 
ries. Remove the stones. Chill 
thoroughly. Fill the cavities with the 
following mixture : 

1 Neufchatel cheese I a cup of cream 
i a cup of pecan Salt and paprika to 
nieats. cut fine suit taste 

Serve on lettuce, with mayonnaise. 

This quantity of cheese mixture will 
fill enough cherries for six portions. If 
a more elaborate salad is desired, use 
part black and part white cherries. 

Of course, when fresh fruit is in sea- 
son, it is to be preferred to canned cher- 



ries. 

Be sure to chill thoroughly, before 
serving. c. b. f. 

;jc >}c * 

The Economj^ of Parmesan 

DURING the last year, the Boston 
Cooking-School Magazine has 
published many particularly good recipes 
requiring cheese. Two, which I use fre- 
quently, are "Italian Gnocchis" and 
''Cheese Custard." In each instance 
cheese is called for, and being addicted 
to Parmesan, I used it in these dishes 
as well as the cheese sauces published 
from time to time. It requires one- 
fourth to one-third less Parmesan than 
any other cheese and retains its fine deli- 
cate flavor as long as a scrap of it re- 
mains. Being hard, it grates well and 
leaves the grater in much better condi- 
tion than the soft cheese that comes 
from the grocer. Parmesan costs from 
forty to sixty cents a pound, but one 
uses so little that it makes quite a dif- 
ference in both bills and digestion. Ev- 
ery city and nearly every town can boast 
of at least one Italian fruiterer where 
Parmesan, olive oil, spaghetti and mush- 
rooms may be purchased at lower prices 
than at the large grocers, and, besides, 
these things are invariably of better qual- 
itv than could be found elsewhere. 



Have you ever tried to stuff or devil 
an egg, even though fresh and, when cut, 
find the yolk had settled almost through 
the white? The yolk may be balanced 
directly in the centre by setting the eggs 
over night, large end uppermost, in a 
saucepan that holds them close together ; 
in the morning pour water over them 
and cook. 



It is not difficult to keep aluminum 
saucepans bright and new looking, but 
a frying-pan is almost certain to have 
fat burnt to the sides and bottom. Ine 
manufacturers give directions for cleans- 
ing with oxalic acid, which in my case 
was a complete failure. It is, however. 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



109 



very easy to keep the pan beautifully 
bright. Heat the pan and rub with a 
cleanser while still hot. The heat softens 
the aluminum a little and the stains rub 
off nicely. This would never do, how- 
ever, for aluminum saucepans, as they 
are too thin and would wear out rapidly. 

A. R. c. 
* * * 

Pineapple Pie (Original) 

CUT a good-sized apple in haWes. 
Peel, run through the food chop- 
per, saving all the juice. Add to pine- 
apple one level tablespoonful of flour, 
one egg, the yolk of another (save the 
white for frosting) and one half a cup 
of sugar. Stir all together well and 
bake with one crust. This should make 
one pie ; if not quite enough add a little 
water; when baked beat the white of 
tgg dry, then beat in four tablespoonfuls 
of sugar and spread over pie. 

Steamed Fig-and-Raisin Pudding 

One cup, each, of chopped figs, raisins, 
suet, and molasses. One teaspoonful of 
ginger, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, 
half a nutmeg, one-fourth a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, one cup of sweet milk, one 
teaspoonful of soda, two and three-quar- 
ters cups of flour. Roll fruit in flour. 
Mix liquids and suet, stir in soda and 
part of flour, last, add fruit and the rest 
of flour. Pour in a buttered tin and let 
steam three hours. Serve hot with car- 
amel sauce. This is good re-steamed 
and it keeps in a cool place for a week. 

Caramel Sauce 

One cup of sugar browned in a basin, 
two tablespoonfuls of starch smoothed 
in cold water, two cups of hot water 
added to browned sugar. Stir in corn 
starch, let cook ten minutes and add 
butter the size of a large walnut. Take 
from fire and flavor with a teaspoonful 
of vanilla. Serve hot. 

Rhubarb Pie ^vith Eggs 
(Original) 



This can be cut hot and the juice will 
not all run out as with the old way of 
making rhubarb pie. Cut one and one- 
half cups of rhubarb in pieces and pour 
boiling water over to cover. Let stand 
to cool, drain off the water and put in 
to paste-lined pie tin; this is for one 
common-sized pie. Beat one egg, the 
yolk of another (save white for frost- 
ing), one level tablespoonful of flour, 
three-fourths a cup of sugar and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of cinnamon in 
a bowl. Spread well over rhubarb in tin 
and bake with one crust. Bake well to 
cook rhubarb tender. Frost the top with 
white of egg, saved, and three level table- 
spoonfuls of sugar; brown slightly in a 
cool oven. 

Rhubarb Punch " 

Cut up ten stalks of rhubarb, mix with 
four ounces of raisins, seeded and 
chopped, and let simmer very slowly in 
three pints of water for an hour, ihen 
strain, add a teaspoonful of rose water 
(this may be omitted if not Uked) and 
lemon syrup to taste. Bottle when cold, 
and when serving pour over shaved ice 
in punch glasses. 

Honey Filling for Layer Cake 

Blend together one-half a cup, each, 
of honey and sugar with two tablespoon- 
fuls of water. Heat over the fire until 
it forms a thread. Remove and beat in 
the stiff-whipped white of an egg. Beat 
constantly until the mixture cools and 
is soft and thick like cream. Spread be- 
tween the layers and on top of cake. 

Honey Almond Cakes 

(Nice for teas, luncheons and parties.) 
Boil together one pound of strained 
honey and one-fourth a pound of butter. 
Take from fire and let stand twenty 
minutes, then stir in one teaspoonful of 
ground cloves, the grated rind of a 
lemon and one-fourth a pound of 
choppeid almonds. Lastly, stir in one 
pound of flour, sifted with one-fourth an 
ounce of baking powder. Set away in 



110 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



a cool place over night. In the morn- 
ing roll out one-half inch thick, cut into 
fancy shapes and bake brown. Frost 
with pink icing. 

Apricot Souffle 

Peel and stone six large apricots, chop 
fine and add one-half a cup of powdered 
sugar and the stiff-beaten whites of four 
eggs. Bake in a buttered dish twenty 
minutes. Serve at once with whipped 
and sweetened cream. 

Banana Souffle 

Whip the whites of three eggs dry 
and stiff, add three tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, then fold in the fine-mashed pulp 
of five or six ripe bananas. Bake in a 
quick oyen and serve with whipped 
cream, sweetened and flavored to taste. 
Cherry, blackberry and raspberry souf- 
fle can be made in the same way. 



In canning pineapples use one cup of 
the apple to one quart of strawberries. 
The color in the berries is a deeper red 
and the flavor is retained. Make a 
syrup of sugar and water in the usual 
way ; cook the pines by themselves twen- 
ty minutes, then add the strawberries 
and cook until done. 



To can corn, beans, peas or asparagus 
(in common glass fruit jars) : first have 
the jars and tops well scalded in boiling 
hot water. Cut up vegetable to be 
canned, pack in jar with a spoon, add a 
teaspoonful of salt to a quart jar, screw 
on top lightly, boil one hour, let cool 
twenty-four hours ; then open, fill with 
hot water, and boil one hour more. Let 
rest again twenty-four hours; fill again 
with water, add rubber, screw on top, 
let boil an hour, cool and cover from 
the light. Keep in a cool place. This 
is the method used by the U. S. Depart- 
ment of Agriculture. Always have the 
jars full of water; follow directions and 
you will have success. i. p. 



FOR a refreshing sick room disin- 
fectant put a little fresh-ground 
cofifee in a saucer and in the centre place 
a small piece of gum camphor. Light 
with a match, and as the gum burns low 
allow the coffee to be consumed with it. 
It is pleasant, healthful and cheap. 

When you have a jabot that is trouble- 
some to iron, baste the pleats in position 
before washing it, then iron and remove 
the threads. Use fine thread so that no 
trace of it will remain. 

After washing lace and muslin ties, 
rinse them in clear water, then dip them 
in milk and iron between cloths. 

INIore Olive Oil 

It has long been observed that those 
who treat olive oil as a common article 
of food and use it as such are generally 
stronger and healthier than those who 
do not. The American has still to learn 
that there are many ways of using the 
oil besides in salads. It may be used 
with good effect as a substitute for but- 
ter, in compounding the ordinary brown 
or white sauce. A teaspoonful of oil 
added, just before taking up, to every 
quart of split-pea, bean, potato or other 
soup, lacking fat, greatly increases its 
richness as well as its flavor. A child 
soon learns to like the taste of olive oil 
on bread in place of butter, while any 
k^'nd of cold meat, that is to be recooked, 
is improved by having a little oil poured 
over it, at least, half an hour before heat- 



ing- 



J. J. o. c. 



Tis Morn, — Tis Night 

A blushing sky, a ray shot high, 

A veil from Heaven torn. 

A golden beam, 

A white star-gleam, 

A curtain lifts, — 'tis morn. 

A crimson rift, a billowy clift, 

A shaft of yellow light. 

An ash-grey bar, 

A single star, 

A curtain drops, — ''tis night. 

— Louise V^an Der Horsf. 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscriber- Questions relating 
to recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answers by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit $1.00. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, editor, Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. 



Query 1741. — "Recipe for Elderberry Wine." 

Elderberry Wine (Fletcher 
Berry) 

Strain the juice of crushed berries, 
and add, for six quarts of juice, a half 
gallon of water. Use three pounds of 
sugar to each gallon of the liquid. Let 
ferment in a cask or open earthen jar, 
filling; up as it evaporates. When fer- 
mentation ceases stop well and set aside 
for eight months before racking off. 



Query 1742. — "Recipe for Salted Almonds." 

Salted Almonds 

Cover the almonds with luke warm 
water, and heat quickly to the boiling 
point; drain and cover with cold water, 
then press each nut, one by one, be- 
tween the thumb and finger, to slip off 
the skin; dry the nuts on a cloth. Beat 
the white of an tgg slightly, then strain 
it. Dip the tips of the fingers of the 
right hand into the ^gg and repeatedly 
take up and drop a few nuts, until they 
are well coated with the tgg. Continue 
until all the nuts are coated with ^gg, 
then dredge with salt, mix thoroughly 
and let brown delicately in the oven. 
Stir the nuts, occasionally, while they are 
browning. 



Query 1743.— "Recipes for Iced Chocolate, 
Jellied Tomato Bouillon, made of canned 
bouillon, also from soup bone, and a recipe 
for Pickled Watermelon Rind." 

Iced Chocolate 

Scald milk and make cocoa with cocoa 



syrup by the recipe given on page 95. 
Turn the cocoa into a glass fruit jar, 
close secure and let stand in the re- 
frigerator until thoroughly chilled. 
Shake the jar vigorously before turning 
the cocoa into cups or glasses. 

Jellied Tomato Bouillon 

(Canned Bouillon) 

To one quart of bouillon add one pint 
of tomato puree (cooked tomato pressed 
through a sieve) half a teaspoonful of 
salt, half a teaspoonful of onion juice, 
half a teaspoonful of paprika and three 
tablespoonfuls of granulated gelatine, 
softened in three-fourths a cup of cold 
water or bouillon ; dissolve in the bouil- 
lon and tomato heated to the boiling 
point; strain and set aside in a cool 
place to jelly. For a firmer jelly use 
a whole package of gelatine (4 table- 
spoonfuls). To serve, cut with a knife, 
dipped in boiling water, into small cubes 
and dispose these in bouillon cups. If 
preferred the jelly may be broken up 
irregularly with a silver fork. This 
jelly is most appetising when not very 
firm. It may be clarified with whites 
of eggs, but by so doing the color of the 
tomato is lost. 

Jellied Tomato Bouillon 

(Soup Bone) 

To make three quarts of bouillon, have 
three pounds of shin of beef, with 
little bone, and three pounds of veal 
knuckle, about one-third bone ; a calf's 
foot, if convenient, is of advantage. 



Ill 



112 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



also the giblets and necks of two or three 
fowl. Cut the meat in small pieces, and 
saute part of both veal and beef in a 
little hot fat; let cook slowly. Mean- 
while put the bones, broken small, and 
the rest of the meat in small pieces over 
the fire v/ith about three quarts and a 
half of cold water; let heat very slowly, 
add the rest of the meat; when it is 
nicely browned, put about a pint of the 
water from the soup kettle into the fry- 
ing pan and let stand over the fire until 
it has taken up all of the glaze on the 
pan, then add this, also, to the soup ket- 
tle; beat the whole very slowly to the 
boiling point, skim, then set the cover 
over the soup kettle, to leave part of the 
contents exposed, and let simmer five 
or six hours Add one quart of tomatoes, 
cut in pieces, one onion and one carrot 
in slices, two stalks of celery, two or 
three branches of parsley, one teaspoon- 
ful of sweet herbs and let simmer an 
hour, then strain and set aside. When 
cold remove the fat and, if there be 
more than three quarts of liquid, let 
stand over the fire to simmer on one 
side of the kettle until reduced to the 
proper quantity. If, when the stock was 
cooled, it formed a jelly, no gelatine 
need be added. The use of a calf's foot 
obviates the use of gelatine, and some- 
times the knuckle of veal, without the 
foot, will supply all the gelatine needed. 
The jelly should not be two firm. This 
stock may be clarified with whites of 
eggs, as is consomme, if desired. The 
color and flavor of tomato will be more 
pronounced, if well reduced tomato 
puree be used rather than raw tomatoes. 

Pickled Watermelon Rind 

Pare off the green rind from the out- 
side and the pink flesh from the inside 
of the melon, and cut in such pieces as 
can be handled. Then cut the pieces 
into smaller pieces suitable for serving. 
Cover the pieces of rind with salted 
water, adding two tablespoonfuls of 
salt to each quart of water, and let 
stand overnight. Drain off the water and 



set the rind to cook in a fresh supply. 
When the rind is tender, tested with a 
skewer, turn into a colander to drain. 
Weigh the rind and for each seven 
pounds take three pounds and one-half 
of sugar, one pint of vinegar and four 
ounces of stick cinnamon. Put the 
sugar, vinegar and cinnamon, broken in 
pieces, over the fire to boil to a syrup ; 
press two or three whole cloves into 
each piece of rind and let cook in the 
syrup until well saturated with syrup, 
then store in fruit jars as canned fruit. 



Query 1744. — "Recipe for Southern Beaten 
Biscuit and Pineapple Ice." 

Southern Beaten Biscuit 

Sift together three cups of flour, one- 
eighth a teaspoonful of soda, and one 
teaspoonful (scant measure) of salt. 
Work in a level tablespoonful of lard, 
then add one tablespoonful of butter- 
milk, and cold water, as required to make 
a very stiff dough. Pass the dough 
through a roller, made for the purpose, 
until it is full of tiny blisters. Use no 
more flour in rolling than is needed to 
keep the dough from adhering to the 
machine. Cut the dough in rounds (the 
cutter comes with the roller, and pricks 
the dough), and bake in a very mod- 
erate oven. 

Pineapple Ice 

Cook a generous pint of chopped pine- 
apple and a quart of water twenty 
minutes; add a cup of water and a pint 
of sugar and cook again twenty minutes, 
then strain through a cheese cloth, pres- 
sing out all the juice possible; when cold 
add the juice of three large lemons and 
freeze as usual. When using a can of 
grated pineapple, in place of the fresh 
fruit, take half a cup less of sugar. 

Query 1745. — ^"Kindly tell me of something 
to drive away small red ants from a pantry." 

To Exterminate Ants 

Spread leaves of fresh pennyroyal 



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Rarebits 
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THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

Vol. XVI AUGUST-SEPTEMBER, 1911 No. 2 

CONTENTS FOR AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 

PAGE 

MENUS FOR GARDEN PARTIES 57 

COLONIAL CHAIRS, Illustrated .... Mary H. Northend 59 

SHOPPING AND MARKETING IN RUSSIA, 111. Mary Gilbert 63 

REOPENING THE SUMMER CAMP . Mrs. Charles Norman 66 

AUGUST Forbes Allan 69 

DRESS, DIET AND DEBT .... Kate Gannett Wells 69 

QUINCE PRESERVES Josephine Page Wright 71 

THE COMING OF MARY ELLEN .... Helen Forrest 75 

A PAIR OF FRIENDS Alix Thorn 77 

EDITORIALS 78 

HOPE Stokely S. Fisher 78 

SEASONABLE RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone engravings 

of prepared dishes) Janet M.Hill 81 

MENUS, FOR A WEEK IN AUGUST ... » - - 90 

u SEPTEMBER . '' '' " 91 
INEXPENSIVE LUNCHEONS FOR AUTOMOBILE 

PARTIES Janet M. Hill 92 

CATERING FOR AUTOMOBILE PARTIES '' '* '' 93 

LESSONS IN ELEMENTARY COOKING, Mary Chandler Jones 96 

THE TIRELESS COOKER W. J. Miskella 98 

THE VOYAGE OF LIFE 101 

PRACTICAL HOME DIETETICS . Minnie Genevieve Morse 102 

HUSH-A BYE-BYE Ruth Raymond 106 

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 107 

Chocolate Cake for Thirty — Boston Stew — Coffee-Making — Salad of Cherries 
and Cheese — Economy or Parn esan Cheese, eic. 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS Ill 

NEW BOOKS XVI 

MISCELLANEOUS xx 



$1.00 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 10c. A COPY 

Four Years' Subscription, $3.00 

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter. Copyright, 1911, by 

THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY 
372 BOYLSTON STREET BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

Please Renew on Receipt of the Colored Elank Enclosed for that Purpose 

ii 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



It is the Flavor 

That makes the diiference between poor and 
pleasing food ; that is why you should ask your 
grocer for 




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go farther and produce better results than com- 
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You pay for the best and ought to get SLADE'S. 

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INDEX FOR AUG-SEPT. page 

August 69 

A Pair of Friends n 

Catering for Automobile Parties ... 93 

Colonial Chairs 59 

Dress, Diet and Debt 69 

Editorials ' 78 

Home Ideas and Economies 107 

Hope 78 

Hush-a-Bye-Bye 106 

Inexpensive Luncheons 92 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking .... 96 

Menus for Week in August 90 

Menus for Week in September .... 91 

New Books xvi 

Practical Home Dietetics 102 

Quince Preserves 71 

Reopening the Summer Camp 66 

Shopping and Marketing in Russia . . 63 

The Coming of ]Mary Ellen 75 

The Fireless Cooker 98 

The Voyage of Life 101 

Seasonable Recipes : 
Blanc Mange Gelatine with Black- 
berries (111.) 88 

Bluefish, Baked (111.) 82 

Bluefish, File s (.r, B.ked 8.^ 

Chicken, Poeled 85 

Cocktail, Tomato (111.) 81 

DumpHngs, Apple, with Hard Sauce 

(111.) ^ 88 

Dumplings, Apple, with Butter and 

Sugar (111.) 88 

Fish, Stuffing for Baked 82 

Haddock, with Mornav Sauce au 

Gratin (111.) ....'. 82 

Lobster, Clarence Style (111.) .... 84 

Macedoine, Jellied in Tomatoes ... 81 

Noisettes, Lamb, Berry Style .... 89 

Omelet, Spanish ■ 87 

Punch, Tea, !Mint and Grape .... 89 

Salad, Lobster (111.) ......... 84 

Sauce, Drawn Butter 83 

Sauce, Chasseur 89 

Souffle, HaiTi 85 

Sundae, Banana, Plain (111.) .... 89 

Sundae, Banana, Nut 89 

Sweetbreads, Medallions of, Berengue 

(111.) 85 

Sweetbreads, Glazed, with Canned 

^Mushrooms 86 

Queries and Answers : 

Ants, How Exterminate 112 

Almonds, Salted Ill 

Biscuit, Southern Beaten 112 

Bouillon, Jellied Tomato Ill 

Chocolate, Iced Ill 

Ice, Pineapple 112 

Nut Loaf with Tomato Sauce .... x 

Watermelon, Pickled Rind of ... . 112 

Wine, Elderberry Ill 

Cake, Burnt Sugar xii 

Cake, Spanish x 

Crumpets, English xii 

Pastry, Plain xii 

Pie, Banana x 

Planks, Regarding xii 

Waffles xiv 



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Hot Weather Dishes 

If there was ever a time when the housewife needed Mrs. Rorer's 
book, HOT WEATHER DISHES, it has been this summer. 
And summer is still here ! Don't wear yourself out in thinking 
about your daily bill of fare — here it is all thought out for you. 
Lots of delightful things to tickle the jaded appetite and furnish 
variety to the table. And the cost ! 

Cloth, only 50 cents ; by mail 55 cents. 

How about Canning? 

If you have not finished putting up fruit and vegetables, here's 
the book for you — Mrs. Rorer's celebrated CANNING AND 
PRESERVING. Tells all you want to know; how to can and 
preserve, how to make jams, jellies, marmalades, fruit butters, syrups, 
etc. And — here's a a secret — your work is bound to come 
out right. No waste. 

Cloth, only 50 cents; by mail 55 cents. 

Vegetable Cookery & Meat Substitutes 

Another book to appeal to the American housewife. For many 
reasons. We do not get enough out of our great variety of vege- 
tables. This book of Mrs. Rorer's shows how, and presents a 
great many fine dishes, new to many people. Then we need to 
break away from meat now and then, for the sake of our health 
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All of Mrs. Rorer's books are sold at all bookstores 
and department stores ; or send to the publishers. 

ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom St., PHILADELPHIA 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Books on Household Economics 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE presents the fol- 
lowing as a list of representative works on househol.d economics. Any 
of the books will be sent postpaid on receipt of price. 

With an order amounting to $5 or more we include a year's subscription 
to THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE (price $1). The 
MAGAZINE must be sent, however, to a new subscriber. 

The books will be sent as premiums for securing new subscriptions to 
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE as follows: any book 
listed at not more than fifty cents will be sent postpaid to a present sub- 
scriber on receipt of one new yearly subscription at $1 ; for two subscrip- 
tions we will send postpaid any $1 book; for three subscriptions any $1.50 
book; and so on in like ratio. 

Special rates will be made to schools, clubs and persons wishing a num- 
ber of books. Write for quotation on the list of books you wish. 

American Salad Book. M. DeLoup $1.00 

Art of Home Candy-making (with thermometer, dipping wire, etc.) 3.00 

Art of Right Living. Richards .50 

Baby, The. A book for mothers and nurses. D. R. Brown, M.D. . 1.00 

Blue Grass Cook Book. Minnie C. Fox 2.00 

Book of Good' Manners. Kingsland 1.50 

Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln 2.00 

Boston Cooking School Cook Book. Fannie M. Farmer . . . 2.00 

Bread and Bread-making. Mrs. Rorer .50 

Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott ,50 

Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer .50 

Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer .50 

Care and Feeding of Children. L. E. Holt, M.D 75 

Care of a Child in Health. N. Oppenheim 1.25 

Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln . .... .60 

Century Cook Book. Mary Roland 2.00 

Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn 1.50 

Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu Williams 1.50 

Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning. Richards and Elliot ... 1.00 

Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill 75 

Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Cost of Cleanness. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Food. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Living. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Shelter. Richards 1.00 

Dainties. Mrs. Rorer . . . .35 

Desserts — One Hundred Recipes. By Fillipini .30 

Diet in Relation to Age and Activity. Sir Henry Thompson . . 1.00 

Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell . 3.00 

Dictionary of Foods and CuHnary Encyclopaedia. Senn ... 1.00 

Economics of Modern Cookery. M. M. Mollock 1.00 

Eggs — One Hundred Recipes. Fillipini 30 

Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer 1.50 

Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed 1.00 

First Lessons in Food and Diet .30 

Fish — One Hundred Recipes for Cooking Fish. Fillipini . . .30 



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vi 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



First Principles of Nursing. Anne R. Manning 1.00 

Food and Cookery for the Sick and Convalescent. Fannie M. Farmer 1.50 

Food and Dietaries. R. W. Burnett, M.D 1.50 

Food and its Functions. James Knight 1.00 

Food in Health and Disease. I. B. Yeo, M.D. . . . . . 2.50 

Food Materials and their Adulterations. Richards .... 1.00 

Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes for Meatless Dishes). Sharpe 2.00 

Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 4.00 

Handbook of Hospitality for Town and Country. Florence H. Hall 1.50 

Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary A. Boland .... 2.00 

Healthful Farm House, The. Helen Dodd 60 

Home Economics. Maria Parloa 1.50 

Home Economics Movement . .75 

Home Nursing. Harrison 1.00 

Home Problems from a New Standpoint 1.00 

Home Sanitation. Richards and Talbot .25 

Home Science Cook Book. Anna Barrows and Mary J. Lincoln . 1.00 

Hostess of Today. Linda Hull Earned . 1.50 

Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer .50 

Household Economics. Helen Campbell 1.50 

Household Science. Juniata L. Shepperd . . . . . . 1.75 

How to Cook Fish. Olive Green . 1.00 

How to Cook for the Sick and Convalescent. H. V. Sachse . . 1.00 

How to Feed Children. Louise E. Hogan 1.00 

International Cook Book. Fillipini 4.80 

Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50 

Laundry Manual. Balderston and Limerick .50 

Laundry Work. Juniata L. Shepperd .60 

Louis' Salad and Chafing Dishes. Muckensturm .50 

Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.40 

Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer .50 

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. Mrs. Rorer . . . . . . .35 

Menu Book and Register of Dishes. Senn 2.50 

My best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer .50 

Old Time Recipes for Home Made Wines. Helen S. Wright . . 1.50 

One Woman's Work for Farm Women .50 

Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs. Janet M. Hill .... 2.00 
Practical, Sanitary, and Economic Cooking. Mary Hinman Abel . .40 

Principles of Home Decoration. Candace Wheeler .... 1.80 

Register of Foods .1.00 

Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book 2.00 

Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill . 1.50 

Sanitation in Daily Life. Richards .60 

Spirit of Cookery. J. L. W. Thudichum 2.50 

Sunday Night Suppers. Christine Terhune Herrick .... 1.00 

The Up-to-date Waitress. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

The Woman who Spends. Bertha J. Richardson 1.00 

Till the Doctor Comes, and How to Help Him 1.00 

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substitutes. Mrs. Rorer . . . 1.50 

Vegetarian Cookery. A. G. Payne .50 

With a Saucepan Over the Sea. Adelaide Keen 1.50 

ADDRESS AI.L ORDERS 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., BOSTON, MASS. 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




Why Old-Fashioned Cooking 
Was Best 

Everyone remembers the wonderful pies and cakes, doughnuts and 
cookies which graced grandmother's table. How everyone could eat 
them, too — children and all — without thought of indigestion. 

Why they were so good and so wholesome was simply this : 
Old-fashioned cooks used pure, delicate leaf lard for shortening — 
the shortening \^ou may have by asking for 

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two-thirds as much. 

For cake, pastry and all hot breads, 
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ix 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



about the infested places. If the fresh 
herb can not be procured, saturate a 
piece of cotton batting with oil of penny- 
royal ; cut this into bits and scatter them 
about where the ants are accustomed 
to appear. Another way is to force a 
strong solution of carbolic acid or, of 
alum into all the cracks and openings, re- 
peating the process several times if 
necessary. For the carbolic acid solu- 
tion use two tablespoonfuls of acid to 
a pint of water. Use the undiluted acid 
with care, to avoid burning the hands. 
To make the alum solution, dissolve 
one pound of alum in three pints of 
hot water. 



Query 1746. — "In recipe for Banana Pie 
published in March, 1911, number of the maga- 
zine, where lemon juice and grated rind are 
used, should the molasses be omitted?" 

Regarding Banana Pie 

The recipe reads, "two tablespoonfuls 
of molasses, or the grated rind and 
juice of half a lemion." This recipe for 
banana pie was originated by the editor 
of this magazine and, as bananas are 
somewhat sweet and lacking in flavor, 
acidity was brought in by the use of 
molasses or lemon juice; both, however, 
may be used or only one, as suits the 
taste of those for whom the pie is made. 



Query 1747.— "Recipes for Spanish Cake 
and Nut Loaf with Tomato sauce." 

Spanish Cake 



2 teaspoonfuls of 

cinnamon 
1 teaspoonful, each, 

of cloves and 

mace 



1 cup of butter 

2 cups of sugar 
4 yolks of eggs 
1 cup of milk 
34 cups of sifted flour 
6 level teaspoonfuls 

of baking powder 

Mix in the usual manner. Bake in 
layers and put together with boiled icing. 
Or, bake in a sheet, in a small dripping 
pan, after sprinkling the top with cur- 
rants or chopped nuts and granulated 
sugar. The fruit or nuts sink into 
the cake and the sugar gives a crusty 
exterior, which answers for an icing. 
This recipe was given in the October 



number of vol. XII. As no further 
allusion to the cake is made in this or 
the succeeding volume of the magazine 
we conclude the recipe was given cor- 
rectly, still we are wondering if the 
whites of the eggs are not needed in 
this cake. We should be glad to hear 
from any one who has made the cake as 
it first appeared in the magazine; one 
making it for the first time better make 
half the recipe and bake a spoonful of 
the mixture before turning the rest into 
the baking pan ; if the mixture prove 
too rich, beat in the whites of two eggs, 
beaten dry, and it will come out all 
right. 

Nut Loaf 

(Vol. V. Boston Cooking-School Magazine.} 

Crumble the inside of stale white 
bread, and cut the crust fine. Then dry 
the whole slowly for two hours in a warm 
oven. Use a granite pan, and stir the 
crumbs occasionally. Dry the crumbs 
without browning them. To three pints 
of crumbs, measured before drying, add 
one teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoon- 
ful of minced parsley, one tablespoonful 
of dried sage leaves, crumbled fine before 
measuring, half a teaspoonful of black 
pepper, one-fourth a teaspoonful of cay- 
enne, one-eighth a teaspoonful of summer 
savory, one pint of celery (cut fine or 
ground), and one sour apple in thin bits. 
Melt one-third a pound of butter, and in 
it fry for five minutes one onion of me- 
dium size, chopped fine. Pour this over 
the other ingredients, and mix thorough- 
ly. Beat three eggs. Add one pint of 
milk, and pour over the mixture. Let 
stand to soften the crumbs, while three 
cups of nut-meats — pecans, filberts, and 
Brazil nuts — are ground fine. Reserve 
one tablespoonful of the ground nuts 
for the sauce, and mix the rest into the 
crumbs. When the whole is well mixed, 
shape into a loaf four inches wide and 
three or more inches thick. Butter a 
perforated tin sheet, put the loaf upon 
it, and set to cook in a rather slow oven. 
Bake one hour and a half, basting often 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




"And now for a dash of 
Holbrook's" 

Always have a bottle of this delicious 
Sauce on the table ready for use — it's 
wonderful how appetising it makes a 
meal. 



England has long been famous for the manufacture of Sauces, and in 
order to ensure the real English flavor every bottle of Holbrook's 
Sauce is made in their original factory and imported under seal. 



XT 11 Worcesteilyhire C^ 

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Imported Absolutely! 



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This means more and better cooking — less cost for operating and repairs 

Four of our 20 different pattern ranges are made with ovens two to four inches larger every 
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PARTS 
PETACMABV. 





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Flue — beated quicker and more evenly than ovens heated 6ii 
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12 in. high, 20 in. x 13 in. and 22 in. x 14 in. 

The Grates can be removed without disturbing any other 
parts of fire box ; Oven Bottoms in two paits to prevent 
warping and cracking. 

Special Features: French Sectional Top: non-Warping 
Covers; HUB Direct (non-confus'ng) Damper: Gas Attach 
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If your dealer can't tell you about HUB Rangr>'s write us. 



Send fov "Range Talk JVo. 3' 



SMITH Sl ANTHONY COMPANY 

52-34 UNION ST., BOSTON, MASS. 

Makers HUB Ranges, Parlor Stoves, Furnaces, Steam and Water Htrs. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
xi 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



with butter melted in hot water. Serve 
on a hot platter. Garnish with parsley. 
Serve the sauce in a separate dish. This 
will serve about a dozen people. 

Tomato Sauce for Nut Loaf 

Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter in 
a hot omelet pan. Add a teaspoonful of 
chopped onion and two rounding table- 
spoonfuls of flour, and cook to a clear 
brown. Add a pint of tomato puree and 
a cup of hot water in which the glaze 
from the baking-pan has been melted. 
Stir until boiling. Then add the table- 
spoonful of chopped nut-meats, left for 
the purpose, and half a teaspoonful of 
salt. 

Query 1748. — "Recipe for Burnt Sugar Cake. 
How can one tell when the sugar is brown 
enough ?" 

Burnt Sugar Cake 

Put a cup of sugar in a saucepan over 
the fire, add nothing to it, and simply 
stir vigorously until the sugar is melted 
and changed to a light brown color. The 
sugar is (brown) cooked enough when 
all of it is melted. Add a cup of water 
and, when the bubbling ceases, stir until 
the caramel is melted, then let cook to a 
syrup. Do not cook too long or when 
cold the syrup will candy. 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat into it one cup of sugar. 
Beat the yolks of three eggs ; gradually 
beat in half a cup of sugar and beat into 
the sugar and butter. Sift together two 
cups of flour and two level teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder; beat the flour mix- 
ture into the first mixture, alternately, 
with one cup of cold water and three 
teaspoonfuls of the burnt sugar (from 
the bottle). Lastly, beat in the whites 
of two eggs, beaten dry. 

Frosting for Burnt Sugar Cake 

Melt three-fourths a cup of sugar in 
one-third a cup of water; add three 
tablespoonfuls of burnt sugar and let 
boil until the syrup spins a thread two 
or three inches long, then gradually beat 



it into the white of an tgg, beaten dry. 
Flavor with one teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract. When cool and firm enough to- 
hold its shape spread upon the cake. 



Query 1749. — "Recipes for Plain Pastry and 
English Crumpets." 

Plain Pastry- 
Pastry is made oT flour, fat, salt and 
just enough water to hold the ingredi- 
ents together in rolling out. Fat makes 
pastry tender, water toughens it; thus 
fat rather than water should predomin- 
ate in the mixture. Pastry flour, which 
takes up but a small quantity of water, 
should always be used in this branch of 
cookery. 

For puff-paste the weight in butter 
equals that of the flour called for, but 
for ordinary paste fat equal in weight 
to half the weight of the flour will make 
good pastry. 

If the pastry is to be light and flaky,, 
the shortening must not melt until the 
mixture containing it is set into the 
oven. Often in summer time the short- 
ening becomes too warm while being 
mixed. The early morning should be 
chosen for mixing the paste ; it may then 
be set aside in a refrigerator and pie- 
making be taken up later on in the morn- 
ing. An open window, through which a 
cool breeze is blowing, is the proper place 
for this work. 

Pastry is lightened by the expansion 
of the air enclosed during the making. 
A little baking powder, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful to a cup of flour, insures the 
lightness that an inexperienced cook 
sometimes fails to secure. 

Plain Pastry for One Pie 

One and one-fourth cups of sifted 
pastry flour (five ounces), one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of salt (generous measure), 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of baking pow- 
der, if desired; one-third a cup (two to 
three ounces) of shortening, and cold 
water. 

Sift together the flour, salt and baking 
powder; with a knife or the tips of the 



xn 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





Add These to Your Menu! 



Deviled Crabs 
Crab Fritters 
iEscalloped Crabs 



Crab Croquettes 
Crabs, a la Creole 
Crab Omelette 







e 
ERBE 



You can enjoy all these delicious crab meat dishes without 
the old time bother of cooking and picking the crabs — we^ve 
done that for you! We catch the finest crabs in the world in the 
clear blue waters ot Hampton Roads, select the biggest and finest, 
cook, pick and can them in a kitchen as clean as your own the same 
day they are caught. We use only the sweet white 
meat in preparing 

McMenamin^s 

l^Z>7Ml^^ (Ready for 
K^jK/±ti:S Deviling) 




without 
a pure 




OUR method of cooking keeps them sweet 
preservative. McMENAMIN'S CRABS are 
food product of the highest class. They have the fresh, salt 
sea-flavor, just the right **tang". Pullman Car and Hotel 
Chefs use McMENAMIN'S CRABS to produce their 
wonderful crab dishes and you can do as well at home 
by following the recipes in our booklet. We also supply 
dealers with the natural shells in neat boxes ready for 
use. The shells are PRHH; ask for them when buying 
McMENAMIN'S CRABS and remember **a No. i Can 
makes six large delicious devils" so they are not expensive, 
yet, you could not prepare a daintier meal at any price. Try a 
can at once and you'll make them a regular part of your menu. 





McMenamin & Co., inc. 

40 River Road Hampton, Virginia 



3A%"Ft e /r^<a:aV Few ^0 me 





:^jt 



>^ 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
xiii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



lingers work the shortening into the flour 
mixture, then adding cold water, a few 
•drops at a time, with a knife stir the 
mixture to a paste. Add no more water 
than is needed to form the ingredients 
into a rather stiff paste. The paste is 
now ready for use. 

English Crumpets 

2 tablespoonfuls of 

butter 
li cups of bread flour 



1 cake of compressed 

yeast 
i a cup of lukewarm 

water 
1 cup of scalded and 

cooled milk 



^ a teaspoonful of 

salt 
If cups of bread flour 

in the lukewarm 



Soften the yeast 
water, and add to the milk in which the 
butter has been melted; stir in the cup 
and a half of flour, then beat until very 
smooth, and set aside to become light, 
then add the salt and the rest of the flour 
and beat again until very smooth. When 
again light turn into buttered rings, set 
on a well greased griddle; when the 
crumpets are browned on one side, turn 
ring and crumpet to brown the other 
side. When baked the crumpets should 
be about two-thirds of an inch thick. 



Query 1750. — "In the illustration of Planked 
Fish given in the April number of the maga- 
zine does the tray go with the plank? Also is 
the fish served on the plank? Can one plank 
be used for all articles that are planked?" 

Regarding Planks 

For very evident reasons an article 
cooked on a plank must be set upon 
something cold before it can be brought 
into the dining-room. Thus nickel trays 
have been devised for this purpose, and 
tray and plank may be purchased to- 
gether. We have no catalogue at hand, 
but the pfice is probably about five dol- 
lars. A long oval tray and plank are 
generally used for fish and steak and a 
round plank and tray for chops and 
chickens, though one set of these utensils 
may be used for all purposes, except fish. 
It is preferable to have a separate plank 
for fish — two planks and one tray are all 
that are needed. A set of these utensils 
may be obtained as a premium for new 



subscribers, though we have not so of- 
fered it. 

Query 1751.— "Recipes for Waffles, Pan- 
cakes and cookies. 



Waffles 



IJ cups of flour 

i a teaspoonful of 



salt 

i a teaspoonful 
soda 



of 



1 cup of thick sour 

milk 

2 eggs 

3 tablespoonfuls of 

melted butter 



Sift together the flour, salt and soda; 
stir the yolks of the eggs, beaten and 
mixed with the sour milk, into the dry 
ingredients ; beat in the butter and, lastly, 
fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten 
dry. 

Plain Pancakes 



(scant) of soda 
1 cup of thick sour 

milk 
1 or 2 tablespoonfuls 

of melted butter 



1 cup of sifted flour 
i a teaspoonful of 

salt 
i a teaspoonful of 

baking powder 
i a teaspoonful 

Sift together, three times, the first 
three ingredients, and stir the soda into 
the sour milk; add the butter and stir 
into the dry ingredients. This makes 
about eight cakes. 

Cookies 

i a cup of butter 
1 cup of sugar 

1 ^gS 

Grating of orange or 

lemon rind 
i a cup of thick sour 



milk 
i a teaspoonful of 

soda 
2 cups of flour 
2 level teaspoonfuls 

of baking powder 




Ordinary dusting scatters but does not 
remove dust and germs. Use cheese-cloth 
dampened with tepid water to which a httle 
Piatt's Chlorides, the odorless disinfectant, 
has been added. Wring out till dry so that 
it will not streak the wood work, etc. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
xiv 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





Liquid Food 



Those requiring a tonic and nutritive agent will get 
gratifying results from 




a concentrated Food Tonic of recognized merit. Only the 
choicest Barley-Malt and selected Saazer [Bohemian] hops 
are used, and the finished product contains all the soluble 
substances of these two materials. 

Pronounced by U. S. Revenue Department a 

Pure Malt Product 

and not an alcoholic beverage. Sold by all druggists and grocers. 



ANHEUSER-BUSCH 



ST. LOUIS, MO. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 

XV 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Cream the butter; beat in the sugar, 
the egg, beaten light, and the grated rind. 
Stir the soda into the sour milk and add 
'.to the other ingredients ; stir in the flour, 
•sifted with the baking powder; more 
-flour may be needed, but keep the mix- 
"'ture as soft as it can be handled. Take 
-only a small portion of the dough upon 
the board at one time; roll, cut into 
shapes, set in a buttered pan, dredge with 
granulated sugar and bake in a quick 
oven. These may be varied by the use 
of cocoanut, melted chocolate, chopped 
raisins or nuts. 



New Booki 



MY WINTER GIRL. 
My summer girl is fair to see, 
In snowy white she pleases me — 
She looks so cool, so light and free, 

My summer girl. 
My winter girl has such a charm, 
She looks so breezy, yet so warm, 
Her ruddy cheeks the gales disarm, 

My winter girl. 
Which do I like the very best? 
Which holds the first place in my breast? 
No need to put me to the test — 

They're both the same. 




[RUBBER BUTTON] 

Hose Supporter 



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Against 
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Look for the Moulded Rubber Button and 
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Sold by Dealers Everywhere. 
GEORGE FROST COMPANY, Boston, U.S.A. 



Domestic Science. By Ida Hood Clark, 
Supervisor of Elementary Manual 
Training in the Milwaukee Public 
Schools. Cloth. Price, $1.50 net. 
Boston: Little, Brown & Co. 

This book, prepared to meet the need 
of a course in domestic science, can be 
read and studied with profit in every 
household. The author has been care- 
ful to make the lessons suitable for 
public, private, and rural schools. Per- 
sons with absolutely no knowledge of 
domestic science can teach the lessons 
by reading them over carefully and 
performing the work as directed. 

The lessons consist of two years' 
work, thirty-six lessons in each course. 
The author has herself taught all of 
the lessons contained in the book, and 
the work, as a whole, embodies results 
obtained through several years of suc- 
cessful experience. 

This is an elementary textbook of 
domestic science, one of the few at- 
tempts that have been made thus far 
to prepare a textbook on this impor- 
tant subject. The lessons are plain, 
simple and orderly, affording a basis 
for excellent class work and more ex- 
tensive study. The book is worthy of 
careful examination on the part of 
those who are interested in elementary 
school courses in domestic science. It 
will meet the requirements in many 
schools. 

To Love and To Cherish. By Eliza 

Calvert Hall, author of *'Aunt 

Jane of Kentucky," *'The Land of 

Long Ago," etc. Boston : Little, 

■ Brown & Co. $1.00 net. 

'To Love and To Cherish" is a story 
of political and home life. It deals 
with the same genuine, big-hearted 
Kentucky men and women that the 
author has so faithfully portrayed in 
''Aunt Jane of Kentucky" — and espe- 
cially in the second "Aunt Jane" vol- 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
xvi 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





No Leaky Rubber Ring. 
No Glass Top to leak in air. 
No Poisonous Zinc 
Cap, but instead 
a Patent Air 
tight, Sani 
tary,Gold 
Enamel- 
ed Cap 



The 




ron^ly Indorsed by 
Leading Domestic Scientist 



'/" 





J^ar Trade Mark, 

The public has decreed that 
rubber rings are unsanitary. They 
decay and let in air which causes 
contents to mould and spoil. Pure 
food commissioners have denoun- 
ced zinc caps as unhealthy and 
dangerous to use forborne canning 

The Economy Jar is tJte 
only jar iib the tvorlfl that 
uses no rubber rinr/. A.llritb- 
ber ring jars are atJiing of 
the past. 

The Economy Jar uses no zinc 
cap, no uneven, leaky glass top, 
n J rubber ring. It seals airtight, 
as no other jar haS been sea ed by 
means of a gold enameled cap 
whichhasa patent airtight sanitary 
composition gasket. It seals it- 
self by air pressure and is strongly 
endorsed by all health authorities 



Free Teaspoon 
Actual Size. 



Free 



I firmly believe tliat e^ery housekeeper will use 
Economy Jars to tlie exclusion of all glass top and 
zinc screw top rubber ring jars as soon as she tries 
Economy Jars for home canning. I always re- 
commend the Economy because it is the only jar 
ever invented in v. hich one can putupevery fruit, 
vegetable, meat and fish, without fear of a single 
jar moulding or spoiling. It is truly a most vron- 
derful invention— so simple so handy— so surely 
sealed — so hygienic — so saving in Avork and naoney 
too— I am keen to recommend and advise their use 
always. Miss I. M. Lindsley, Late Domestic Scien- 
tist, of Oregon State Schoois. 

To Advertise the AIRTIGHT ECONOMY JAR 

We will give 

Buyers of Economy Jars 

King's Hall Silver, 1066 

Sectional Plate Silver Teaspoons 

(Solid Silver the Only Better) 
Three Full Size Tea Spoons with every dozen 

Economy Jars. 
One Full Size Tea Spoon with every dozen 
extra Economy Caps. 

You want a halfdozen or dozen 
of these Spoons— FREE. 

Sow to Sectire Silverware 

There are two large hand in Jar 
Trade Marks printed on the ends 
of each case of Economy Jars, and 
one small Trade Mark printed on 
each carton of Economy Caps 
contained in each case, also 
one srhall Trade Mark print- 
ed on each carton of Extra 





# 



Caps. (A few cases of 
Economy Jars are in 
the market without 
the JarTrade Mark. 
If you do not find 
printed on the 
end of each 
case the 



KERR GLASS MFG. CO. 

Home Office Eastern Office 

132 Iloyt St. 184Q West Washington St. 
Portland, Oregon Chicago, Ilhnois 



JarTrade 
Mark, cut 
out theftrm 
name "Kerr 
^^ Glass '' on cases 
^ and send it in to us 
and it will be just as 
good a coupon as the 
Jar 'J rade Mark ) 
Cut out one JarTrade 
Mark, as above described, 
from case or carton and mail 
to us with 14 cents U.S. Stamps 
for postage, packing, etc., and we 
will present to you one tea- 
spoon. Two Trade Marks and 28 cents 
U. S. stamps for two teaspoons, three 
Trade Marks and 42 cents U. S. stamps for 
three teaspoons, etc. These teaspoons 
are the genuine full size famous 
King's Hall Silver, 1066, Sectional 
Plate Silver Teaspoons, The :B.nest and 
hest silver plated ware in the world. 
You will be deli^iterfwith the beautiful pat- 
tern and proud to display them on your table. 
They are warranted to wear many years. We 
will exchange any spoon that shows wear under 15 years 
These teaspoons are worth $4.00 a dozen; $1.00 
for three, or 35 cents each. With Jar Trade Marks 
you get $4.00 woreh of beautiful teaspoons for $1.68. 
;>;i\ You save 58 cents every time you buy one 
":'%}, dozen JE)conomy Jars. Buy two dozen Economy 
,..■/ Jars and st cure set of six beautiful teaspoons. Buy 4 
Mozen Jars and get complete set of i dozen teaspoons. 
Buy the Jars now while this free offer is 
still in effect. 

Buy Economy Jars today from your dealer and start 

set of free spoons. If your dealer is out of Economy Jars 

ce sure to write us. We will refer you to a dealer who has a 

" stock on hand and send you a booklet of valuable recipes free. 

Why the Economy Jar is Superior to All Others 

Other than the Economy Jar no home canning Jar has ever been 

made in which vou can put up peas— string and lima beans— corn=on« 

the=cob— asparagus— all other vegelables— berries of every kind and all 

other fruifs — all fish and meats — and have them kept in a perfect condi' 

tion for any length of time. 

jr:eai> this lmttmr 

"I have used the Sconomy Jars 
with perfect success for two years, 
preserving corn, peas, beans, toma= 
toes, aparagus, as well as all kinds 
of berries and fruits. Would use 
nothing else in my home again.'* 
Mrs. A. P. Guy, Wishok, N. D., 
May 4. 1909. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
xvii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Don't spoil rich materials by 
flavoring them with a rank, 
inferior, dark colored extract. 

Try 

Burnett's 
Vanilla 

made from the choicest Mex- 
ican Vanilla Beans, in either a 
baked or a soft custard, and see 
how rich and delicious the 
flavor is. 

JOSEPH BURNETT CO. 

Boston, Mass. 



COOK WITHOUT FIRE 




A servant that serves whether you are away 
or at home— that's the HYGIENIC FIRE- 
LESS COOKER AND BAKER. 

When you go away in the morning, place 
your dinner in the cooker — on your return you 
will find the most savory meal cooked in the 
most satisfactory manner. 

Magic ! Not a bit of it. Simply the appli- 
cation of the principle of utilizing stored heat 
energy. The HYGIENIC is built to retain the 
heat placed in it, just as was the brick oven of 
our grandmothers. You simply heat the plates 
and place them in the cooker with the food — 
then forget all about your cooking until meal 
time. It does not scorch or burn. 

Send the name of your Hardware Dealer and we will mail 
you free a copy of our catalogue and ' " Fireless Cooking. " 
Write now. 

Stephens Manufacturing Company 

344 Franklin Building, Buffalo, N. Y. 



ume, "The Land of Long Ago." It is 
a story of love and sacrifice. A law- 
yer, rising from obscure surroundings 
and about to receive the nomination 
for the highest office in the State, is 
the hero, and his wife, a plain moun- 
tain woman, who does not think she 
has the education that a governor's 
wife should have, is the heroine of the 
story. The problem created by this 
situation furnishes the author with a 
motive for some of the best work she 
has yet done. Of this story the char- 
acters are interesting, the atmosphere 
is genial and wholesome. It provides 
an excellent treat for summer reading. 



The Ideal Cookery Book. By M. A. 
Fairclough. Cloth, 48 colored 
plates and 247 illustrations. Price, 
$8.00 net. New York : E. P. Button 
& Co. 

This is an English work edited by a 
well-known teacher of cookery, the lady 
principal of the Gloucester Road School 
of Cookery, London. For this volume 
it is claimed that it ''contains all the 
newest methods and recipes that are in 
vogue both in England and on the Con- 
tinent. It is up to date, and includes 
recipes suitable for the beginner and for 
the advanced student as well as infor- 
mation for the mistress of the house- 
hold." All the recipes have been tested 
in the Editor's School of Cookery. 

This book is designed to be a complete 
work of reference, in every branch of 
cookery, from the simplest to the most 
elaborate. And this is just what the book 
evidently is, an ideal cookery book for 
Reference. It holds numerous recipes, 
in every branch of the subject, of dishes 
as they are prepared and served in Eng- 
land. The average cost, time required 
and the seasonable months, also, are 
given v^ith each dish. A comprehensive 
and ambitious \vork; to teachers, stu- 
dents, and others, it will be found of 
great convenience and value. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Cook A nythingy 

Anywhere^ 

Anyhow y 

with the 

Alcohol Gas Stove 




Chafing Dish 

With "Alcolite" Burner 

imuuuuuumuuumuuumumuuuuumu. 



m 




WHEN you buy a Manning-Bowman Chafing Dish with Alcohol Gas Stove 
you buy not only a utensil for ordinary chafing dish cookery, but you get a 
portable stove of great cooking power, that will cook any sort of meal with any 
sort of cooking utensil. This stove is useful on the dining table, in the kitchen, 
on the boat and with picnic and camping parties. Alcolite Burner Stoves are 
sold separately, without chafing dish, if desired. 

Manning-Bowman Coffee Percolators make coffee as quickly, and of better quality, starting with 
cold water as others starting with hot. They are guaranteed to make better, more healthful, 
more delicious coffee than by any other process. No small parts to lose. No valves to clog. 

Manning-Bowman Tea Ball Tea Pots prevent the infusion from absorbing too much strength 
from the tea leaves in standing. Therefore the second cup is always like the first. The ball is 
raised and lowered from the outside by the knob of the cover, and the suspending chain 
remains concealed inside the pot whether the ball is up or down. 

These products are made in a variety of styles and sizes, the popular mission designs and 
many other handsome patterns, in solid copper, nickel, silver plate, or aluminum. 

The Manning-Bowman products are sold by leading dealers. Write for 

Free Recipe Book and Catalogue No. J- 19. ^ 

MANNING, BOWMAN & CO. 
Meriden, Conn. 

Also makers of 
Manning -Bowman 
Urn Coffee Perco- 
lators, Eclipse 
Bread Makers, 
Chafing Dish 
Accessories, The 
Celebrated M. & B. 
Brass, Copper and 
Nickel Polish. 





u 



" Transparent 
view" showing 
tea ball raised 



Coffee 
Percolator 
No. 9093 



''''Transparent M 
view" ^ 



mmm^m^m^mm^^m^^mmmmmm^^m'^m^m^Bm^'^m'^'^'^mmmm^mmmm^^ 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
xix 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Electric 
Lustre 
Starch 

Works Wonders 

Makes SMrt Waists, Skirts, 
Laces, Linens, Stiirts, Collars, 
Cutis, and all starched things 

Look like NEW. 



Most Economical and 
Best for all starching, be- 
cause it goes farther and 
does better work than any 
other starch. 

Requires no Boiling, but 
may be boiled if desired. 
Perfect results in hot or cold 
water. 

Saves Time, Lab or, Trou- 
ble. Will not stick to the 
iron, get lumpy or injure 
the finest fabric. 

Ask Your Grocer for it. If he does 
not have it please send us his iiaiiie. 

Write us for FREE SAMPLE 

ELECTRIC LUSTRE STARCH CO. 
Dept B, Central St., Boston, Mass. 





Keep the Cook Good 
Natured with 

Fireless Cooker 

Opei'ates on same principle as the Vacuum 
bottle, therefore re tainsheatlougest, as heal 
cannot pass through a vacuum. 

Affords the housewife more time for her 
children and her favorite pleasures. 

Keeps the kitclien cool; takes up little space; 
saves four-fifths of gas or fuel bills; makes 
foods more deliciousthan stove cooking- ever 
can Nothing to become wet. stainedorsour; 
no danger from spontaneous combustion. 
All metal construction; solid aluminum 
utensils; radiators, lifters and racks, all 
complete for baking, roasting and boiling. 

Household sizes, 8 and 12(it. caoacity. Heari/ Service 
Cooker, 5 and 10 gals., for hotels, clubs, bOf>pitals, etc. 

In addition to the Vac-Jac, we make the 

^i^u Y ¥V,>> Our price for this handsome 

-Sl?flnfll n cooker, with 2 wells, solid aluini- 

.Ab^MW^-V num utensils, radiators, racks. 

etc.. is the lowest at icliich a tiro compar1ine))t cooker, 

eaulpped for roasting and baking Itas ever been solcL 

Write today for our new Free Book 

"How to Li\e Better at Les^ h\pcnse" 
It tells how to make less expensive 
meatsmost delicious and nourishing; 
how to cook cereals and other foods 
to perfection, how the houseN\ ife 
may have more time for the "' 

things she wishes to do; how to 
keep the maid contented and 
many facts valuable to every- 
one interested in best metii- 
ods of home management. 

VACUUM INSULATING CO.r 

1928 Peoples Gas Bldg. 

Chicago 




Sanitation in the Home 

Miss Alta Hiatt in Ladies World 

When a woman enters into the house- 
keeping business she takes upon herself 
grave responsibilities, and it becomes her 
duty to inform herself on all subjects 
that pertain to her chosen work. We 
must understand sanitary conditions 
both in and outside of the house. We 
must know how to keep everything^ 
from family to premises, in the best con- 
dition, with the least work and worry 
possible. We must keep pace with 
household improvements and inventions,, 
and be able to select the best for our 
own special use. It is our business to 
see that all leaks which lead to extrava- 
gance and loss of health are closed per- 
manently, for ''sanitation and economy 
are twin sisters." Our protection from 
dirt, disease and insects is a hygienic 
matter that science demands to-day, and 
this is afforded more through a study of 
little than large things. 

Cleanliness should be scattered through 
the year, instead of making a mountain 
of it at stated seasons. Even if a neigh- 
bor does sniff suspiciously, when we say 
we clean every week, instead of twice 
a year, we should have the courage not 
to yield our position, nor feel conscience 
stricken, if our home is tranquil and 
serene during the upheaval that affects 
others. Frequent cleaning is economical, 
I in that one expends less strength and 
I expense than if the dirt has accumulated, 
and less hard rubbing and digging into 
house and furniture is required. It 
helps us to repair a break when found 
at once, and a cent spent in time saves 
dollars. 

Let there be daily inspection, ventila- 
j tion and sun bathing of every room. 
Do not tolerate cracks in floors, base- 
boards, walls, or any place where pests 
may lodge. Old newspapers, soaked in 
I a tub of water for a few days, boiled 
j to a soft pulp, mixed with half a pound 
I of glue to a gallon of pulp, squeezed dry 
I while hot, then applied to the cracks, 



Buy Advertised Goods— do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




YALE FRUIT PRESS 



Nothing like it for making 
jellies, jams, grape juice, 
wine, water ices, Srappes; 
also for lard, meats, jellies, 
stuffing sausages, etc. 

No woman has the strength 
to press fruit with her hands, 
besides without a press you 
lose fully one-half your fruit 
or meat juice and nearly all the 
flavor which only great pressure 
brings out. 

The YALE is light, strong, 
clamps instantly to euiy table or 
shelf. Place cotton bag filled 
with materials in cylinder, fix 
beam in position, and with a 
few turns of the wheel you put 
contents under more than 2000 

pounds pressure. Double cylinder, easily cleaned, never 

wears out. 

In three sizes— 2 quart $2.95; 4 quart $3.95; 8 quart $6.95. 
At all dealers or shipped direct on receipt of price. Money back 
guarantee. 

Valuable Booklet of "Aunt Sally's Best Recipes'' 
and catalog FREE. Write today. 

VICTOR M. GRAB & CO., 

Patentees and Sole Manufacturers 
1162 Ashland Block Chicago, 111. 






Good Coolts 

will haVe no other. 

Genuine 

HUNTER'S SIFTER 

The Standard for a ^uarter=Centurt; 

DISTINGUISHED from all others by 
its thorough sifting, easy working 
and years of wear. 
Sieve and all parts quickly removed for 
cleaning. No soldered joints to break. 

None genuine without "HUNTER'S SIFTER" 
stamped on front. Sold everywhere. If your 
dealer can't supply the Genuine Hunter's 
Sifter, send his name. and 25c for sifter postpaid. 

THE FRED J. MEYERS MFG. CO. 

1514- Bender Street Hamilton. Ohio 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 



XXI 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



CANDIES OF RARE QUALITY' 




One oj the Wacaivon Luxuries. 

Take it alonq tuitK you or purchase it from, 
any of our 5ale5 Acfents 




WANTED — A few cooking receipts weekly, for 
newspaper, from graduate of some hi^h class domes- 
tic science school. Address E. K. T., Boston Cooking 
School Magazine. 



Trouble on Washday? 

Send us your Grocer's name and address and your 
own with six cents and we will mail you a cake of 

sufficient for a family washing. Elwako is a scien- 
tific compound to be used with Laundry Soap. It 
contains no Lye or Acid. Makes Clothes Clean and 
Does away with the Washboard. Saves Time, 
Labor and wear of Clothing. Used by thousands 
of housekeepers. 

ELWAKO MANUFACTURING CO. 

1120 Prospect Ave. Cleveland, Ohio 



will easily and neatly fill them. After 
this has hardened a good paint filler, and 
a coat or two of stain, paint or varnish, 
will give you utmost satisfaction. 

When sweeping keep the dust 
"down" and let a current of air blow 
through the room. Sweep with the 
draft, and broom and air will soon rid 
the room of dust. Wipe the furniture 
with an oiled cloth. Be sure no part 
of the house is damp. A dry cellar is 
an absolute necessity. If the building 
stands in a low place, have a ditch a 
few feet from the foundation, slope and 
fill with broken stone and gravel; top- 
with dirt. Apply waterproof prepara- 
tion or paint to the inside, that the damp- 
ness may not ascend. 

Let the housekeeper, when planning^ 
the running of her establishment, con- 
sider : first, the house healthful ; second,, 
the house comfortable ; third, the house 
convenient; the rest will take care of 
itself. Nothing, positively nothing, 
should be planned for display, the pre- 
dominant thought being to outstrip one's 
friends, for an attitude of this kind is 
unsanitation of the mind. 



A gentleman attached to our embassy 
at London tells this story of Sabbath- 
breaking north of the Tweed. A brawny 
Scot was hammering away at the bot- 
tom of his wheelbarrow, when his wife 
came to the door. "Mon ! Mon !" she 
exclaimed, ''you're making such a 
clatter, what wull the neebours say?" 
"Never mind the neebours," returned 
the busy husband, "I maun get ma bar- 
row mendit." "Oh, but Donal', it's vera 
wrong to wurk on the Sawbuth," pro- 
tested the good woman. "Ye ought to 
use screws." — Harper s Magazine. 



SAMPLE 



Used by Leading Chefs and 
THE PALISADE MFG.CO. 353 



GIVES 
A DELICIOUS 
FLAVOR AND 
RICH COLOR 
TO SOUPS, 
SAUCES, 
GRAVIES, 



FREE 



Eminent Teachers of Cookery. 



CLINTON AVE. WEST HOBOKEN. N.vl, 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



ELECTRICITY will 

Cook Nutritious Food 



in Detroit 
Fireless 
Electric 
Stoves 




Bakes, Boils, Roasts, 
Saves Labor, Saves Money 

A Few Minutes Current from Any Electric 
Lamp Socket Starts It 



IMPRISONED HEAT COOK S THE FOOD 

Write for Gatalof^ue, showing twelve styles and 
sizes of Electric and Radiant Fireless Stoves and 
Cookers and Trial Offer. 

DElrDillirelBSS Slave Co 

126 Jefferson Ave., Detroit, Mich, U. S. A. 




^PLA I n"^ 

IF you like g-elatine desserts, here's one 
that will delight you. If you don't 



you 
you will have to when 



like gelatine 
you try this. 

Sample Free mak^^one pLt. 

No gnesswork in preparing it. No 
failure in results. It comes all ready 
measured for you. Four envelopes in 
each regular or full-size package. Each 
envelope contains exactly- and always 
the quantity to make one pint. Whole 
package makes 5^ gallon. Dissolve 
In boiling water or milk, 
add sugar, fruit or flavor, 
cool and serve. Simple, 
isn't it? Minuteman on 
every package. 
Send us to-day your grocer's 
name and ask for sam/ple to 
make one pint and Minute- 
man Cook Book— both free, 
, MINTJTE TAPIOCA CO., 
W. Main St., Orange, Mass. 



^' 



=1 



Casserole— Premium for Seven Subscribers 






are not premium goods 



Long slow cooking, at a 
gentle heat, best conserves 
the nutritive elements of food 
and the flavors that render 
it most agreeable. The 
earthen Casserole makes this 
method possible. Then, too, 
the Casserole is the serving 
as well as the cooking dish. 
The housekeeper who is 
desirous of setting a pleasing 
table without an undue ex- 
penditure of time or money 
will find a Casserole almost 
indispensable. 

but are made by one of the leading 



1 lie V^aSScrOicS Yt C UllCr manufacturers of the country for their regular trade. The dish is 
• three-pint one, round, eight inches in diameter, fitted with two covers, (an earthenware cover for the oven 
and a nickel plated one for the table) and a nickel plated frame. It is such an outfit as retails for live or six dollars. 

Our Of f Oi* • ^^"<^ us seven (7) new yearly subscriptions at $ I each, and we will send the dish, as premium 
^*^1 vFlLCr, for securing and sending us the subscriptions. The express charges are to be paid by the receiver. 



ADDRESS: 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass. 



Buy Advertised Goods 



do not accept substitutes 
xxiii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Trade Mark Registered 

Farwell & Riiines* 




Also iovaluable Cereal Special- 
ties for Invalids. Ask lor tliem 

At Leading Grocers, etc. 



We have an Attractive 
Proposition 

to make to those who will take sub- 
scriptions for 

THE BOSTON 

COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

Write us if you wish to canvass your 
town or if you wish to secure only a few 
names among your friends and acquaint- 
ances. Start the work at once and you 
will be surprised how easily you can eam 
ten, twenty or fifty dollars. 

Address 
SUBSCRIPTION DEPARTMENT 

Boston Cooking-School 

Magazine Co. 
BOSTON. MASSACHUSETTS 



DOMESTIC SCIENCE 

Home=Study Courses 

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children. For home- 
makers, teachers and for well-paid positions. 
"The Profession of Home-Making," 100-page handbook, 
FREE. Bulletins: "Free Hand Cooking on Scientific 
Principles," 48 pages, lo cents. "Food Values: Practical 
Methods in Dietetics," 32 pp., ill., lo cents. 

American School of Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, III. 



Business Before Devotions 

A hypocritical, sanctimonious old 
Southerner who in slave times was a 
crafty merchant and trained many of 
his negroes in the tricks of his trade, 
was overheard one morning before he 
began the day's business questioning his 
servants. 

"Amos, have you sanded the sugar?" 

"Yes, Massa." 

"Habakkuk, have you put gravel in 
the coffee?" 

"Yes, indeed, Massa." 

"Ezekiel, did you get the dried leaves 
mixed with the tea?" 

"Yes, sah ; yes, sah." 

"Well, Moses, if you can hang up that 
side of bacon there so the skippers won't 
show, you can all come in to prayers !'* 



The Marketer — "Aren't you wasting a 
good deal of that steak in trimming it?" 
The Butcher — "No, ma'am ; I weighed it 
first"— Toledo Blade. 



Mrs. Baye — "She is simply mad on the 
subject of germs, and sterilizes or filters 
everything in the house." "How does 
she get along with her family?" "Oh, 
even her relations are strained." — Tit- 
Bits. 



Two negro men came up to the out- 
skirts of a crowd where a senator was 
making a campaign speech. After 
listening to the speech for about ten 
minutes, one of them turned to his com- 
panion and asked : "Who am dat man. 
Sambo?" "Ah don't know what his 
name am," Sambo replied, "but he cer- 
tainly do recommen' hisself mos' highly." 
— Success Magazine. 




Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



BOYS and GIRLS 




oV-^- 



are splendid judges 
of food and dessert. 



JUNKET 

whether served as a cold milk 
jelly of delicious flavor and 
creamy texture, or in the form of 
an exquisitely smooth and velvety 
ice-cream, is always a prime favorite 
with them. There is no other food or 
dessert more healthful or nourishing. 

Ten Junket Tablets to make ten 
quarts, post-paid for ten cents. 

Your Grocer Sells Junket Tablets. 
CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY, 

Box 2507 Little Falls, N. Y. 




These trade-i 



CRES 



KIDNEY AND 

Makes di 
Unlike other 



FARWELL 




on ^very package 
DIET FOR 
DYSPEPTICS 



ES AND OBESITY 

verybody. 

For book 



N.Y..U.S.A. 




Good Things to Eat 

Can be quickly and easily made with 

Fleischmann's Yeast 

Send for our new Cook Book and try some of the 
forty odd recipes that tell how to make baked goodies 



The Fleischmann Company 

701 Washington Street New York City 



NEW STANDARD 
"Central NEEDLE" 
Sewing Machine 



HYGIENIC. Because: 

1 . No strain on spine or eyes. 

2. Easy Running. 




A— Ordinary Sewing 
Positiou. 



. B— "Central Needle 
Poeitiou. 



r. C. HENDERSON CO., Boston, Mass. 
Factory Selling Agents 



Write our nearest agency for hooJclet and easy terms 

Jolm Wanainaker, New York 

John Witnamaker, Pliila. 

The May Co. Cleveland 

Dey Brod. & Co.. Syracuse 

Kami Sons & Co., Washing: ton 

Win. l[eny;erer Co., Buffalo 

E. S. Brown Co., Fall River 

Erie Drv Goods Co., Erie 



Shepard, Norwell Co., Boston 
SilUey, Lindsey & Curr, Kochester 
Joseph Home Co., I'itts-bun^ 
L. S. AvrfB& Co., Indiimapolis 
Stix, Baer& Fuller, St Louis 
J. ]j. Hudson Co.. Detroit 
Forbes & Wallace. Snrinsfield 
Lion Dry Goods Co.. Toledo 



The Sliepard Company, Provideuct 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 

XXV 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




Kornlet Soup 

because it brings to the table the delicious 
flavor of newly gathered sweet corn, ripe 
with Summer's rain and sunshine. Tasty, 
nourishing, different entirely from canned 
corn, you'll find that Kornlet makes more 
good things than you thought 
possible. Kornlet is just the 
pulp of the kernels of fresh 
green corn with the outer 
shell removed by precise and 
careful machines. Easily used, 
eagerly eaten, easily digested. 

Send your grocer's name now for booklet of 
Kornlet prize recipes by housewives who use it. 

THE HASEROT CANNERIES CO. 

Cleveland, Ohio 




Koumys 

Koumys is especially recommended 
for the use of those who cannot assim- 
ilate milk in its natural state. It was 
originally made from mare's milk, but a 
very healthful, palatable and refreshing 
drink can be easily made by following 
these directions. 

Heat twQ quarts milk to blood-heat 
(100°). Add half a cake Fleischmann's 
yeast and two tablespoonfuls sugar, dis- 
solved in a little warm water. Let stand 
for two hours, then bottle and stand for 
six hours in a moderately warm room; 
then place on ice. Koumys will keep 
four or five days, if kept cold, but it is 
better if made fresh daily. 



Red Cedar Chest a Home Necessity 

Saves 
Cold Storage 

Charges. 
Is Moth Proof. 

Combines 

Beauty ard 

Usefulness. 
This chest is 
made of de- 
lightful, fra^ 
grant South- 
ern Red Ce- 
dar — a true 

replica of a Colonial Treasure Chest. . Beautifully 
polished, finished with Cedar handles, wide copper 
bands, and studded with old-fashioned heivy copper rivets. Very 
Moomy. Frotects furs diid clothinq affainst moths, ^o 
ca/mphor rennired. Is rJnst and dntnp proof. MAKES 
UNIQUE BRIDAL OR CHRISTMAS GIFT. Direct from factory, 
freight charges prepaid— No dealers profit. "Write for catalogue. Shows 
many other styles and gives prices. 

PIEDMONT RED CEDAR CHEST CO. stateJvHk/N. C. 





Housewives ^tws^Jretr Stepsaver 

in serving meals. One trip with Wheel Tray sets table. 
Another completely clears it. This table on wheeU moves 
easily anywhere you want it. Height 31 in. Removable 
oval trays, 23in, by 28 in. and 21 in. by 26 in., extra heavy 
steel. Sin. rubber tire wheels. Gloss black japan finish. 
Price$|0. express prepaid. _$ | 2 to Pacific Coast. 
"Write for circular and learn its convenience. 

Wheel-Tray Co., 435 G West 61st Place, Chicago 



"I understand you are a graduate of 
Vassar, Miss Lucy. Did you ever study 
English literature to any extent?" "Oh^ 
mercy, yes! We had Hogg for break- 
fast, Bacon for dinner, Lamb for tea,, 
and Lover in the evening." — Elgin Every 
Saturday. 



''Had a puncture, my friend?" asked 
the passer, with an air of interest. The 
chauffeur looked up, and s"wallowed his 
feelings with a huge gulp. "No, sir," he 
replied. "I'm just changing the air in 
the tires. The other lot's worn out, you 
know 1" 



"Desirable." — Saxon Passenger (on 
Highland coach) — -"Of course, you're 
well acquainted with the country round 
about here. Do you know 'Glen Ac- 
cron' ?" Driver — "Ay, weel." Saxon 
Passenger (who had just bought the 
estate) — "What sort of a place is it?" 
Driver — "Weel, if ye saw the deil 
tethered on't ye'd just say, 'Puir brute !' " 
— Punch. 



TANGLEFOOT, the Original Fly Paper 

FOR 25 YEARS THE STANDARD IN QUALITY^ 
ALL OTHERS ARE IMITATIONS. 




Buy advertised goods- — do not accept substitutes 
xxvi 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



1847 ROGERS BROS.# trVIe 

For sale Ly leading dealers everyw^nere 





Send for Catalogue ''G-8' showing all designs. 
MERIDEN BRITANNIA CO., Meriden, Conn. 

(International Silver Co., Successor) 



CHARTER OAK 
PATTERN 



SENl) us two NEW yearly 
Subscriptions at $1.00 each and 
we will renew your own sub^ 
scription one year free, as pre- 
mium, 
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE CO. 
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



Beautiful Bust 

Easily and Naturally Obtained 
by the Famous 

DUBARRIE 

French Method 

Many women in America think 
that the bust and neck cannot be 
developed to the charming fullness 
and beauty nature intended them to 
be. French women know that it can 
be done and that it is done every day. 
Some other women think that the 
method must be injurious to accom- 
plish the results. They do not under- 
stand that the Du Barrie French Method is a 
natura l one, a scientific one, that the results 
are produced through a natural cause and 
that it benefits the general health. 

I would be delighted to hear from every 
woman who has such doubts. It should be as 
easy to convince her that it can be done and 
done without harm, as it would be to convince 
her that exercise develops muscle or that cer- 
tain foods develop fat. I will send a booklet 
giving full information free — how any woman 
can do it — if you will send me your name and 
address, enclosing a 2c stamp for postage. 

The booklet I send you, free, will open your 
eyes to many things about bust development 
which you probably never realized; it will 
probably show you why you have had doubts 
that the bust could be developed, and it v/ill 
convince you that development by the famous 
Du Barrie French Method must be positive 
and luxuriant. Its success is a world- 
known fact. 

I MDME. DU BARRIE> 2876 Ottawa Bldg., Chicago, 111. 




LADIES-NEW RUBBER SHIELDS TO PROTECT sUk linings 
in coat and sleeves, 4 pairs 25 cts. del'd. Stamps accepted. J. Lowen- 
thal, 118 E. 28th St., N. Y. 



START A MILLINERY 
BUSINESS 

For$50?5or$1005^ 




MAKE YOURSELF USTDEPENDENT. Establish 
yourself in a profitable Millinery business of your 
own. With one of our complete stocks of READY 
TRIMMED MILLINERY you can open a store or de- 
partment without a trimmer. These stocks are made 
up of the very latest city styles. Every hat is 
a positive success and will sell quickly at a 
large profit. "We have started thousands of 
successful people in this same modest way. 

THERE IS MONEYIN MILLINERY 

No other legitimate business offers the same oppor- 
tunity. In no other business can you invest so little 
and draw out so much. "We protect all Millinery 
dealers by refusing to sell to consumers. If 
you can invest $50.00 or $100.00 now^ you 
should be able to turn over your Investment 
many times during the season. Our catalogues 
and booklets will keep you posted on the latest styles 
in popular demand. You can succeed without any 
previous experience in the Millinery business and 
with less effort than in any other line. 

TTRITE TODAY for itemized list No. 27 , 
which tells what our Fall and Winter stocks consist of 
what they will sell for, and just how much 
profit you can make, etc. "Write— right now. 

CHICAGO MERCANTILE CO. 

17-19-31-33-35 N. Wabash Avenue, Chicago 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
xxvii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Demonstration Lectures 
in Cooking 



SINGLE AND IN 
COURSES 



By Mrs. 

Editor Boston 



Janet M. Hill 

Coo k ing- S cho o 1 Magazine 



Topics for Single Demonstrations: 

Meat Substitutes and Left-Overs. 

Cheap Cuts of Meat Made Palatable. 

Daily Meals Considered Physiologically 
and Esthetically. 

Dishes for Home Entertaining. 

Sauces, Entrees and Salads. 

For Clubs, where cooking is inconvenient, 
a lecture on Pertinent Points in Domestic 
Science, followed by the preparation of a 
salad or articles on the chafing dish, has 
been prepared. 

For terms, dates, etc., address 

Mrs. Janet M. Hill, 372 Boylston St. 

Boston, Mass. 

Care of Boston Cooking-Schoo! Magazine 



MRS. HILL'S 
COMPLETE COOK BOOK 




Over 700 pages Illustrated Price $2.00 Net 

Will be sent postpaid, on receipt 
of $2.00, or to any address as a 
premium for four ( 4 ) yearly subscrip- 
tions to the magazine at $1.00 each 
Address all orders to 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE CO. 

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



The Best Premium Offer We Ever Made 



Every One Who 



Has 
Has 




Received One of these Chafing Dishes 
Been Delighted With It 

and surprised how easily the necessary 
subscriptions were secured. Havej/^??/ 
obtained one yet ? If not, start today to 
get the subscriptions, and within three or 
four days you will be enjoying the dish. 

This Chafer is a full-size, three-pint, 
nickel dish, with all the latest improve- 
ments, including handles on thehot water 
pan. It is the dish that sells for $5.00. 

We will send this chafing-dish, as pre- 
mium to any present subscriber who 
sends us seven (7) NEW yearly sub- 
scriptions at $1.00 each. The express 
charges are to be paid by the receiver. 



ADDRESS 



THE BOSTON COOKING=SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., BOSTON, MASS. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



OH 



i][^]0 



Emerson College of Oratory 

HENRY LAWRENCE SOUTHWICK, President 

THE largest school of Oratory, Literature, Physical Culture, 
Dramatic Art and Pedagogy in America. It aims to 
develop in the student a knowledge of his own powers in ex- 
pression, w^hether as a creative thinker or an interpreter. Sum- 
mer sessions. The demand for our graduates as teachers in 
colleges, normal and high schools is greater than we can fill. 

31st year o^ens Tuesday, Se^^temher 26tn. 




HARRY SEYMOUR ROSS, Dean 



Huntington Ckamters, Huntington Avenue, Boston, Mass» 




Hl^lll 



i)^ 




Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-dish DamOes 

By Mrs. JANET McKENZIE HILL, Editor The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 

A New and Revised Edition. 
Profusely Illustrated. 




230 pa^es. 



Price, $1.50 



SALADS and chafing-dish dainties are destined to receive in the 
future more attention from the progressive housekeeper than has as 
yet been accorded to them. In the past their composition and con- 
sumption has been left chiefly to that portion of the community ** who 
cook to please themselves." But since women have become anxious 
to compete with men in every walk of life, they, too, are desirous to 
become adepts in tossing up an appetizing salad or in stirring a 
creamy rarebit. The author has aimed to make it the most practical and 
reliable treatise on these fascinating branches of the culinary art that has 
yet been published. Due attention has been given to the a b c of the subjects, and great care 
exercised to meet the actual needs of those who wish to cultivate a taste for palatable and whole- 
some dishes, or to cater to the vagaries of the most capricious appetites. The illustrations are 
designed to accentuate, or make plain, a few of the artistic effects that may be produced by 
various groupings or combinations of simple and inexpensive materials. 

We will mail "Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-Dish Dainties," postpaid, on receipt 
of price, $ 1 .50, or as a premium for three new yearly subscriptions to the magazine. 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 

BOSTON. MASS. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
xxix 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



i?V 



;xsxxsxx5ex3?>ex;5cx3cx3^^ 



Premiums for New Subscriptions 

The following premiums will be given to present subscribers only, in payment 
for their efforts in securing and sending to us new yearly subscriptions at 
$1.00 each. No premium is given with a subscription or for a renewal. 




AMERICAN KITCHEN IBRIEND SET 

As illustrated. Sent for three new subscriptions 
Express to be paid by receiver. 



FOR ONE NEW SUBSCRIPTION 
we will send postpaid a 3-pint 

ICE CREAM MOLD 

of the very best quality. 



FOR ONE NEW SUBSCRIPTION 
we will send postpaid a 

GOLDEN-ROD CAKE PAN 

(Waldorf Triangle pan) of the very best quality. 



A SPATULA 

There are few utensils more useful 
than a spatula. All professional cooks 
use them, and where once used they be- 
come a necessity. We will send an eight- 
inch one of the best make, postpaid, for 
one new subscription. 



FOR 
TWO 
NEW 

Subscrip- 
t i o n s we 
will send, 
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




A bath tub, half filled with 
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Menu for Hallowe'en Party 

Cold Boiled Ham in Aspic Jelly 

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Frozen Apricots 

Assorted Cake 




1 



The 
Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



Vol XVI 



OCTOBER, 1911 



No. 3 



The Warelands Dairy, Where Clean Milk is 
Produced— the Experiment of a Woman 



By Mary H. Xorthend 



CONVINCED that farm work af- 
forded to women an opportunity 
of doing something worth while 
in a remunerative as well as an educa- 
tional way, Mrs. Robert Ware about four 
years ago withdrew her energy from 
city committees and entered upon an in- 
teresting experiment in scientific dairy- 
ing, the result of which is of unusual 
value to Boston and Massachusetts, but 
of far more than local interest to all who 
are interested in the broadening of oc- 
cupation for women. 

Always residing in the city, but pos- 
sessed of a great love of the country and 
an enthusiasm for its wholesome out- 
of-doors joys, she had from early girl- 
hood been much interested in farming 
and its many and perplexing problems. 
Unlike most people, she did not look 
upon this occupation as one that any 
person could engage in ; she realized that 
it was a branch of work that required 
a great amount of brain power to ac- 
complish properly, and that no other 
field of labor was more dignified, or 
v/orthier of recognition. 



The idea of conclusively proving her 
convictions, however, did not occur to 
her until some years after her marriage^ 
when. Secretary of the Education Com- 
mittee of the Twentieth Century Club^ 
and in charge of the important Saturday 
morning lectures, she was privileged to 
listen to a series of discourses by Profes- 
sor Tyler of Amherst College and Dean 
Bailey of Cornell, which sounded the 
note of getting back to the soil, and set 
forth the benefits of country life. The 
theme of these lectures strongly ap- 
pealed to her, and was the principal 
factor that helped her to decide to 
abandon the work she w^as then engaged 
in, and take up country work, with the 
aim of supplying at least one clean food 
product. 

At 'The Warelands," her husband's 
ancestral home, located on the shores of 
High Lake, at Norfolk, Massachusetts, 
she embarked on her venture in earnest^ 
and, in addition to establishing a dairy, 
she set to work to reclaim the estate 
from its worn out condition, w^hich years 
of neglect hcd brought about. She 



115 



116 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




KINDLY CARE 

reasoned that, if she failed, her experi- 
ment would still be of value in saving 
someone else from making a life mis- 
take, and if she succeeded, the ambition 
of her life would be gratified. The farm- 
house, erected in 1733, and spoken of 
in all the old records as the "New 
House," was her first consideration, and 
under her direction it was entirely 
renovated and restored to its old-time 
aspect. Then a new barn and a dairy 
building were built, the exterior of each 
as nearly in conformity with the design 
of the dwelling as was consistent with 
the sanitary conditions within. In the 
equipment of the dairy, Mrs. Ware had 
the advice and assistance of an expert, 
and, in addition, she visited several 
farms, and carefully studied the methods 
of the best dairies in the United States 
and Europe. 

Complete, both buildings are entirely 
sanitary. The walls, floors, and ceilings 
of the various rooms of the dairy are 
of cement, and in the barn, to which 
steam is piped for use in frequent 
scrubbing of floors, walls, and stanch- 
ions, the walls and floors are of the 
same construction. The barn is solely 
for the cows ; all kinds of fodder and 
barn tools are stored elsewhere. Here 
the ventilation is so arranged that no 
drafts can reach the cattle, and abundant 
sunshine is provided by four lines of 
continuous windows. The cows feed 
from a cement manger, and water is kept 



constantly before them in self-regulated 
sanitary drinking troughs, lined with 
white porcelain. The gutter back of 
them is cleaned twice each day, and the 
contents carted to the fields where land 
plaster is scattered as a disinfectant. It 
also drains into a cement-lined cistern, 
from which the liquid is pumped and 
spread as a fertilizer. 

While these buildings were in process 
of construction, the land was gradually 
being reclaimed and made ready for 
planting. Helpful suggestions from a 
member of the Department of Agricul- 
ture were gratefully received and care- 
fully heeded, and as a result the farm 
today is in a flourishing condition. In 
addition to the heavy fertifizer, barn 
yard manure, and liquid fertilizer, com- 
mercial fertilizer is also used here, par- 
ticularly in connection with the corn 
crop, and the fine yield per acre as well 
as the two hundred tons of ensilage, 
which were last year realized, attest to 
its worth. From a practically barren 
spot, that would not afiford support to a 
single horse, the farm has in the course 
of four years been brought to a state 
of high development, and like the dairy. 
it has frequently served as a guide to 
persons intending to reconstruct their 
farms, and seeking to produce a higher 
quality of milk. 

At the time ]\Irs. \\'are engaged in 




DOMESTICATED 



WHERE CLEAN MILK IS PRODUCED 



117 



this experiment/Massachusetts was quite 
a bit behind New York and some of the 
western states in its standard of clean 
milk. She determined that, if she was 
to do the work, she would do it well, 
and she devoted all her energies toward 
securing a new and a better standard for 
clean milk in her home state. The 
definition of the word clean, as applied 
to milk, has been largely decided by 
physicians as depending upon the number 
of bacteria found in a cubic centimetre 
of the product. In Boston, the law re- 
quires that milk shall contain not more 
than 500,000 bacteria per cubic centi- 
metre. The general understanding, how- 
ever, is that it shall contain less than 
100,000 bacteria per cubic centimetre. 
Some cities require that certified milk 
shall contain under 30,000 bacteria per 
cubic centimetre, and the Boston Milk 
Commission demands that the product 
shall not contain more than 10,000 bac- 
teria per cubic centimetre, and that it 
shall meet requirements in chemical 
analysis satisfactory to them, regarding 
fat, sugar and proteid. The milk pro- 
duced at The Warelands dairy contains 
an average of only 1,000 bacteria per 
cubic centimetre. It was the first milk 
certified by the new Boston Milk Com- 
mission, and for a year it was the only 
one. This high standard has to be kept 
up continuously, for the delivery wagons 
are apt to be stopped on the street at 
any time, and samples of the milk taken, 
without notice, to be tested. 

To secure this high-grade milk, un- 
remitting vigilance has to be exercised 
at the farm end. It is not alone a ques- 
tion of equipment, but largely of the 
faithfulness of employees all along the 
line of production. The herd must be 
kept in a perfectly healthy condition, 
otherwise, the first requisite for good 
milk is sacrificed. The herd must also 
be tested frequently for any signs of 
tuberculosis, and any cattle so afflicted 
must be at once eliminated. The sanitary 
condition of the barn, sunshine, 
abundance of drinking water, plenty of 



fresh air and exercise, are all important 
factors contributing to the satisfactory 
condition of the herd, and they must be 
faithfully looked after each day, if the 
best results are to be obtained. 

To achieve success, Mrs. Ware ad- 
vocates that any woman intending to 
engage in the work should learn the 
process thoroughly from beginning to 
end. The labor problem is always pres- 
ent, and while she may not be needed 
in the dairy continuously, emergencies 
are Hkely to arise, — such as the sudden 
illness or departure of an employee — 
whereby she must be ready, at a moment's 
notice, to take up any part of the work. 
Then, too, she must be willing to bear 




MILKING TIME 

her share of the hardships as well as the 
joys of the enterprise, for, like all labor, 
dairying has some features that are not 
entirely agreeable, such, for instance, as 
bottling at 5 :30 a. m. on a cold winter's 
morning. It is only by determinedly 
shouldering the unpleasant as well as the 
pleasant parts of the work, that a woman 
can expect to acquire the standard of ex- 
cellence desired, and inspire zeal in 
others, who are working for her. The 
first attainment of the standard is not 
nearly as difficult as the continued main- 
tenance of it, as those who have engaged 
in the work will attest, but it is only by 
rigorously maintaining the standard that 
one can hope to achieve success. 



118 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



At The Warelands, the herd was 
started with a few Jersey cows. When 
the Alilk Commission was estabhshed, 
other breeds, — Holstein, Ayrshire, and 
Durham — w^ere added, in order to secure 
the right measure for baby milk, requir- 
ing 4% of butter-fat. The Jersey milk 
contains too much butter-fat for infant 
feeding, but for cafe and hotel trade the 
highest quality, guaranteed to be over 
4j^% of butter-fat, is none too rich, 
In order to secure this high production, 
all feed given the cows must be of excel- 
lent quality. They go out for exercise, 
but not for feeding, Mrs. Ware employ- 
ing the silo system, — bringing the geen 
fodder to them at each milking in the 
barn. The rotation of crops, whereby 
this green fodder is obtained throughout 
the summer, has been one of the most 
interesting parts of her experiment, and 
she may well feel proud of the fields of 
wheat and vetch which were planted at 
the suggestion of an expert, and which 
have brought such fine returns. 

The entire process of milking and 



handling the product is aseptic rather 
than antiseptic. To prevent the contact 
of milk with many surfaces, to reduce all 
possible sources of contamination to a 
minimum, and especially to diminish the 
time during which the milk is exposed 
to the air, — all these precautions tend to 
keep it as near as possible in its normal 
condition. 

The cows are carefully groomed each 
day, and before milking the udders and 
sides of each are washed and wiped with 
clean towels. The men who do the milk- 
ing are examined by physicians, appoint- 
ed by the Milk Commission, to make 
sure of their good health, and they are 
required to be scrupulously neat in all 
their work about the cows. During 
milking time they wear white suits and 
caps, and between milking two cows they 
wash their hands. The cream is sep- 
arated from the milk by a De Laval 
Centrifugal machine, and both products 
are then cooled to 45 degrees and so kept 
until delivered to the consimier. The 
entire production of the dairy is shipped 




RECREATION ON THE FARM 



WHERE CLEAN MILK IS PRODUCED 



119 




THE OUT-DOOR MEAL UNDER THE TREES 



to Boston each morning by express. 

There is no mysterious process, as 
many people suppose, by which the long 
life of the milk of this dairy is secured. 
It is not sterilized, or pasteurized; it is 
the raw, pure product, the only "pre- 
servatives" used being cleanliness and 
low temperature. By exercising care in 
these two respects the milk is easily 
shipped to Europe, and it is not infre- 
quent, in the summer season, that Mrs. 
Ware is called upon to put up a steamer 
order for some foreign port. No better 
proof of the purity and cleanliness of the 
milk is required than the numerous let- 
ters which she receives attesting to the 
delicious quality of the milk at the time 
of its arrival at its destination. Although 
the milk is not sterilized, all things which 
it touches, such as cans, pails, strainers, 
bottles, are thoroughly sterilized before 
each using, for, as Mrs. Ware remarks, 
"the milk does not get the pail dirty, but 
the pail gets the milk dirty." 

The feature of bottling in one-third 
quarts for table use was introduced in 
this country by The Warelands dairy, 
and was the result of a suggestion re- 
ceived in Paris. It has since been adopt- 
ed by other producers and today, in al- 
most any of the first-class cafes and 



hotels, a customer can secure a sealed 
one-third a quart bottle of milk, receiv- 
ing it exactly as it was bottled at the 
farm a few minutes after milking. 

The educational side of the work has 
always been uppermost in Mrs. Ware's 
mind, and while she did not estabhsh a 
regular dairy class until two years ago, 
she trained several individuals privately 
during the first years of her experiment. 
The class of the first year numbered six 
members, whose aim was to study dairy 
work in relation to their own special fields 
of endeavor. They used the farm and its 
equipment as a laboratory, and carefully 
studied the methods of producing clean 
milk, and the question of its transporta- 
tion and supply in a large city, as illus- 
trated in Boston. The work throughout 
was deeply interesting, and of the utmost 
advantage to the students, in respect to 
their own particular labors. 

The girls lived almost entirely out of 
doors, and the class might be aptly 
termed a clean-milk camp. Tents were 
pitched in the orchard for sleeping, 
meals were eaten out of doors, when- 
ever the weather permitted, and the 
various lectures and conferences were 
held under the trees. The benefits of this 
open air life were decidedly apparent 



120 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



and the students, tired at the beginning 
from their winter's work, left, at the end 
of the term, refreshed and invigorated. 
That the results of her endeavors are 
being appreciated is attested by the fact 
that recently Mrs. Ware was asked to 
give a brief account of the w^ork of her 
dairy class before a conference called by 
the American Academy of Medicine at 
New Haven, on the question of the pre- 
vention of infant mortality. This in- 
vitation was particularly gratifying to 
her as it seemed to indicate that the 
farmer's part in the work of securing 
better public health is at length becoming 



recognized. 

Her work has long since passed the 
experimental stage, and is, today, on a 
secure financial basis, w^th every indica- 
tion of broadening and becoming even 
more remunerative in the near future. 
She contends that whether a person is 
in moderate or affluent circumstances, a 
farm of this sort should be made to pay 
for itself, and while, of course, the ex- 
penses at first are heavy, it should not 
be long before these expenses are cov- 
ered, and some returns realized from the 
venture. 



Real Women 



By Mrs. Charles Norman 



IN the dressing room of a railway 
station a miss suddenly turned to 
me one day and said : 

'Ts my powder on even?" 

She held her doughy face to the light 
and I scrutinized her as well as I could 
and gave her the consolatory assur- 
ance that her powder was all right. 
(I did not emphasize the word powder 
as I was tempted to do.) I presumed 
I had discharged my full duty as judge, 
but she straightway ducked her head 
— which being top-heavy was easily 
ducked, — and said peremptorily — fairly 
compelling me to answer: 

"Does that rat show?" 

I took a glance at her head. It all 
looked like rat to me, but not wishing 
to prolong the investigation I ventured 
the same assertion of the rat I had 
made of the powder. 

A few^ minutes after this encounter, I 
took the train and observed to my no 
great pleasure that this same young 
lady was sitting opposite me. Her 
toilette, I hoped, had been made to her 
complete satisfaction, but she contin- 
ued to glance at herself in the side mir- 
ror, and to give little puffs and pulls 



to her numerous fixings. There was 
an incessant laying on of hands. She 
whiled away an entire hour at this 
business and never got through, though 
she was momentarily diverted to the 
arrangement of the expression of her 
face, trying first one glance then 
another. Did I not wash I could spank 
her and shut her up in a dark room? 

Presently we stopped at a station 
and a young man got into the car and 
took a seat beside her. This was the 
hour she long had sought, the state for 
which her previous existence had been 
mere preparation. 

I remember that wdien I w^as a miss 
of somewhere near her age I read a 
novel by Buhver Lytton. It had a 
rather iconoclastic hero, a non-conform- 
ist, who, though born to wealth, pre- 
ferred fishing to society. 

"Does fishing amuse you, my son?" 
said his solicitous father. 

"Not in the least" — answered the 
youth. 

"Then w^hy do you do it?" queried 
the father. 

"Because," said the young man. "I 
know^ of nothing which amuses me 



REAL WOMEN 



121 



more. 

Then there followed a serious effort 
to get at the mental state of this curi- 
ous son. ''Have you never been in- 
terested in women?" questioned the 
concerned parent. 

''Oh, yes," said the youth, and he 
mentioned Joan of Arc and Florence 
Nightingale and others. 

"But," said His Father, "I mean any 
real women." 

''Real women ! !" echoed the son— "I 
have never met any." 

That is absolutely all I remember of 
that story. I suppose the hero must 
have come across a real woman or one 
whom he considered real. Sometimes, 
nowadays, I see a young man who 
seems to be engrossed in the search for 
a real woman, and oh, how sorry I feel 
for that man ! No doubt there are 
such persons, but they are scarcely dis- 
coverable. (Most of the real women 
are "taken" either by a husband or a 
business — a mission.) A few are left, 
but only Providence or remarkable dis- 
cernment could guide a young man 
toward such an object. False hair, 
absurd hats, gowns that ignore the fig- 
ure, and shoes that give no hint of the 
outline of the foot! All false so far as 
the exterior is concerned, that is cer- 
tain. 

"Can a woman be conspicuously 
dressed?" asks a present day writer, 
whose conclusion is that she cannot. 
"A woman could put on a white dress, 
tie it below the knees with a scarlet 
sash, put on a purple jacket and any 
sort of huge furs, top it off with a hat 
from which feathers a yard long might 
be sticking out in all directions, and go 
toppling along the street in pumps with 
French heels, and not even be noticed." 

But the falsity and the folly do not 
end with habiliments. Imagine a per- 
son appareled in style, praying the 
prayer of Socrates : "God make me 
beautiful on the inside." It grieves us 
to think at how early an age the falsity 
begins, and how responsible mothers 



are for its conception ! But it is not 
the mothers of one generation that 
must bear the burden of blame. The 
wrong matured slowly and we did not 
notice till it ripened. Some people are 
born false, some achieve falsity and 
some have falsity thrust upon them. 
When we say to the daughter — "Be ye 
not conformed to this world," we feel 
that, if she is to be transformed to an- 
other world, she must, also, be trans- 
ported. 

A boy may be raised to do the brave 
or manly thing, but his sister must do 
the pretty thing. Appearances are, for 
her, the chief consideration. The boy 
is pardoned for saying what he thinks. 
That is his nature and he will do it, 
unless his mother succeeds in making a 
lady out of him ; but the girl not only 
should, but must, conceal her senti- 
ments and speak fibs. Anything else 
is not " nice," and an American girl 
must be " nice" above all things — 
though her English sisters think "nice 
is a very nasty word." 

And the little lady grows up without 
ever having been — in the honest sense, 
a girl and the men she meets, not given 
to much reflection and quite acccus- 
tomed to the type, take her to be just 
what she seems. One of them chooses 
her for a life companion and he is as- 
tonished to discover her a sham. He 
does not understand that that character 
was carefully fostered. He is not pa- 
tient, as he should be, and he deals 
harshly and so spoils her happiness and 
his own reputation for justice and gen- 
erosity. 

Men say a spade should be called a 
spade. They do not see the ethics of 
"make ups" and palaver. They have 
no more hatred of a lie than women 
have, and in the broad sense are no 
more truthful, but they are more exact, 
less given to small fabrications and in- 
acccuracies. They demand that the 
speaker shall know whether he dreamed 
a thing or actually saw it. Was it 
Samuel Johnson or Ben Jonson — Sam- 



122 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



uel, I believe — who said : 'Tf a child 
says he looked out of that window 
when he looked out of this, whip him"? 
So important is precision in the mas- 
culine mind, that a man is unable to 
reconcile true character with untrue 
statements, no matter how mild, insig- 
nificant, harmless, suave, or kindly 
those statements may be. 

Thus it happens that even the best 
women may seem somewhat false to 
rnen who do not know the depth of 
their goodness. If this is true, how 
abject and terrible must be these sham 
girls in the eyes of honest gentlemen ! 
We overlook much in youths of both 
sexes. Being silly is not an atrocious 
crime, but it is a pity to have young 
ladies at large, who spoil the reputation 
of their sex. 

As I sat in the train opposite the 
miss who was so anxious about her 
adornments, I heard her discussing 
with great disdain a certain girl who 
belonged to what she called "the un- 
emancipated class." Immediately my 
mind pictured a modest girl, who per- 



haps stayed at home and shared the 
responsibilities of the family, who had a 
good time in a plain way, dressed her- 
self appropriately and thought of other 
people. 

At the suggestion that the young 
lady before me considered herself 
emancipated, it seemed only agreeable 
to revert to the days when women were 
in bondage to The Lords of Creation; 
and it was natural to hope that when 
that bondage ceased, the liberated sex 
would be under the control of divine 
law, that they would be actually self- 
governed, not selfishly governed. 

The old negro who ran away from 
his master "couldn't find no freedom 
along the road." The true woman, 
fully emancipated is not doing as she 
pleases — no indeed ! Neither is she 
working for others because she is co- 
erced; but she is rendering constantly 
and uncomplainingly, a voluntary ser- 
vice, the highest of which she is capable. 
She is looking for happiness, but it is 
the happiness of other people. 



Back to Arcady 

By Stokely S. Fisher 



O come, dear heart, now we are free! 

The old home waits, — the grove, 
Fair fields, green hills that used to be 
A fairy land and Arcady 

When young were life and love ! 
When playmates, there we pledged our vows. 

When skies of June were blue. 
And built a bower of blossomed boughs 
Among the vines to be our house, — 

For just us two! 

And when we built 'neath shade of trees 

We loved our humble home, 
Life still seemed play! Oh days of peace 
And tender joy and pUre heart's ease, — 

We never wished to roam ! 
Though short the lowly paths we trod. 

Narrow the fields we ktiew, 
The world has never been so broad 
As when 'twas Eden — only God 

And just us two ! 



Our children longed for town. The strife, 

The willing sacrifice, 
We hoped would win them larger life: 
Doubt wounds my heart now like a knife — 

Oh, were we really wise? 
The wife was merged so in the mother 

And so my burdens grew. 
Husband and wife lost one another ! — 
But now once more we have each other — 

A^ain just two ! 

Ah me, sweetheart, dear days of yore 

That all too quickly flew — 
Our love shall all their joys restore! 
Though Spring can bloom for us no more 

The skies are just as blue : 
As birds beneath September's sun 

Their April songs renew, 
So life to the old rhythm shall run, 
Sweet yet as happiest halcyon 

Days for us two! 



I 



Mrs. Craig's Awakening 



By Laura Bell Everett 



NOBODY knew just what awak- 
ened Mrs. Addison Craig. 
Something unusual it must have 
been, for it brought her out of her Hb- 
rary. Once outside, she looked kindly 
at her fellow-beings and inquired, ''Are 
we related?" Hitherto she had found 
her friends in her bookcases, and there 
in the library, where she and her hus- 
band had read and studied together, she 
had lived on alone after his death with 
no interest in real people. 

Nobody knew just how or when the 
new idea took possession of Mrs. Craig's 
mind; the idea that there is a whole 
worldful of people working out problems 
as interesting as any woven into poem 
or fiction, and that in the solution of 
these problems she might help. Such 
an idea may germinate in the dark, but 
it must have light and air to bloom. 
Mrs. Craig's idea bloomed. So it seem- 
ed to her; so it seemed to the people 
who became her books, and to whom 
she turned with an interest formerly 
aroused only by her library. Even her 
preference in reading changed, and 
Wordsworth and Keats lay unopened 
on her table, while she studied works on 
social science. "Forms and Reforms," 
she marked one case of books, and wrote 
above it, "To form is better than to 
reform." 

Her neighbor, Mrs. Waldron, called 
one afternoon some time before the 
"Form and Reform" case went into the 
library. 

"I saw Mrs. Baird here this morn- 
ing," she said brightly. "Of course 
she has been telling you all about her 
poor girls and their sorrowful stories." 

"Yes, how enthusiastic she is. The 
work must be sad enough; it would 
attract me, if it were not so painful. 

"Mrs. Baird is just the woman for it. 



She can save a girl, if anyone can. When 
do they plan to build the new home?" 

"Next spring, if funds allow." Mrs. 
Craig was modestly silent as to her own 
contribution. 

Mrs. Waldron went on to relate 
housekeeping expenses and Mrs. Craig 
Hstened half absently. She never taxed 
the patience of her callers with Hilda's 
faults, exposed, set in a notebook, learn- 
ed and conned by rote. 

"That roast was absolutely raw, " 
Mrs. Waldron was saying when Mrs. 
Craig's slightly wandering attention had 
arrived at the climax of the story, at the 
same time as the narrative, having taken 
an intellectual short-cut which politely 
kept in sight the main points of the 
recital throughout its many curves and 
windings. "And you know how partic- 
ular Mr. Waldron is ! That was the 
second time it had happened and I 
couldn't stand it, so I dismissed her." 

When Mrs. Waldron had gone, Mrs. 
Craig laughed at herself. "I wonder if 
a Brahmin eating meat with rehsh sur- 
prises, himself any more than I finding 
anything of interest in household gossip." 
But she did not forget the girl that was 
discharged because of the underdone 
roast. 

A new subject is magnet-like in 
attracting related facts. Take up what 
one will as a study, and books, places, 
and people supplement it. The facts 
were there before, of course, but noth- 
ing drew them together. Develop a new 
interest in photography, ferns, or potash, 
and even the "patient outside" of a news- 
paper gives a fact or two. Mrs. Craig 
suddenly found much material for 
thought. Every walk or talk showed her 
some new phase of the question. 

A discouraged looking mother and an 
unprepossessing daughter sat waiting 



123 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



for her one day as she came in from a 
drive. 

"Ivy wants to do for herself," was 
the mother's explanation, ''and I wish you 
could let her come and work for you. 
I don't want her to go to them stores." 

Inquiry showed that Ivy knew little 
of independent work; she had ''helped" 
at home. 

"So many of the girls is just like Ivy," 
pursued the mother in her tired voice. 
"They can't do housework good, so they 
don't like it, and so they go into the 
stores. Some of them stores is dreadful 
places, an' I thought, if you let Ivy come 
here, she'd learn a heap, and I'd feel so 
safe about her." 

Any other housekeeper in that block 
would have said, mentally at least, "This 
woman does not know how much she is 
asking." But Mrs. Craig, who, a mom- 
ent before, had felt a certain degree of 
condescension, knew with a sudden 
shock that the woman who talked on in 
the tired voice was superior to herself. 
Mrs. Craig was asking herself, "If I 
were that woman, should I plan as 
wisely for my daughter?" Something 
she knew of those stores, not the ones 
where she shopped, but others where 
girls were paid less than a living wage. 
She began studying the question. 

Ivy's entrance into the well-ordered 
home was attended with some friction, 
but this rather helped than retarded Mrs. 
Craig's studies along certain lines. When 
the household machinery jolted, she 
soothed Hilda, whose domain had been 
invaded; and she comforted herself 
with this formula : 

"I can send Ivy away, and when she 
reaches the 'Home', I can send a large 
subscription to help reform her." She 
did not send Ivy away. 

Mrs. Craig was mentally arranging 
and annotating the housekeeping exper- 
iences that had been poured into her 
ears. She never changed the conversa- 
tion now when a long story of kitchen 
calamities was in prospect. She bought 
dry goods at stores she had never before 



entered, just to make opportunity to talk 
with the girls behind the counters. But 
the years with her books had not fitted 
her for all parts of her work. Had she 
realized this less promptly, her idea 
might never have bloomed. She knew 
these girls did not open their hearts to 
her as they would to some one else. 

"I have the money and the plans ;" 
she said, "now for a colleague with 
experience." 

The very- day that saw Ivy go forth^ 
a trained housekeeper, to a good posM 
tion, saw Mrs Craig's colleague ready] 
for her new vocation. She was a bright, 
cheery little w^oman, not out of 'herj 
twenties. Her glasses seemed to se( 
into every girl's heart, and her sweet 
personality to gain confidences every- 
where. Pauline Day had given up her 
work in the Social Settlement of a 
larger city and had come home to rest, 
and Mrs. Baird had brought her to Mrs. 
Craig. 

There were two untrained girls of 
Miss Day's selection in the kitchen 
within a few days, but Hilda did not 
rebel, for she had been taken into Mrs. 
Craig's confidence, and she patiently 
strove to show the new girls her own 
neat ways of working. Her accounts of 
her trials with the novices usually ended 
with, "They get so dirty the floor of my 
chicken." Although Hilda spoke fairly 
good English, she would say "chicken" 
or something that sounded like it, for 
kitchen. 

Mrs. Craig told her own trials to no 
woman, but alone, leaning to a fine face 
in an oaken frame she often whispered, 
"If we had had a daughter. I should 
have forgiven her faults for love — and 
these girls need my help." 

Mrs. Craig systematically related all 
the objections she had heard for the 
pleasure of hearing Pauline Day dispose 
of them. 

"Mrs. Waldron says we can't do it." 

" And why not?" 

"She says the girls w^ill waste too 
much. She wants to know what we 



MRS. CRAIG'S AWAKENING 



125 



shall do with the food they cook in learn- 
ing." 

"They will eat much of it themselves. 
With that in prospect they will do their 
best. Do you remember Frank Stock- 
ton's ghost and hippogrif who ran away 
so as to escape tasting their own root 
beer?" 

"What a fate for poor cooks ! But 
if they prepare quantities of food, what 
can be done with it?" 

'They can have everything they cook 
by paying for the cost of materials, and 
as most of them will live at home, the 
food should be in demand. 

'T have perfect confidence in the pro- 
ject, but I look to you to answer objec- 
tions. My experience with Ivy was suc- 
cessful but not extensive. By-the-way, 
you know her place was given her on my 
recommendation. Our girls will need 
something more formal." 

"A diploma or certificate?" 

"A certificate will be the better, a 
statement that they are capable of doing 
certain lines of work well." 

They were proud girls who later went 
out, carrying the simple certificates. 
They seldom sought places, but often 
finished the course to take a waiting 
position. They called themselves the 
Housekeepers' Guild, but they did not 
disdain the name of servant. 

"When we really believe what we pre- 
tend to believe," said Pauline. Day to 
them, "the word servant will be honored 
and the law of service recognized. Who 
said, Tf any desire to be first, the same 
shall be last of all and servant of all'? 
We dignify the word minister; why not 
servant? Your work is partly the same 
that it would be in your own homes. 
Remember that your work is your pro- 
fession as much as if you were type- 
writers, teachers, or trained nurses. You 



are not doing this as a makeshift, or a 
last resort. It is your choice of work, 
and in these days every woman should 
choose some occupation. You have cho- 
sen the most womanly of callings." 

While Pauline Day talked to her girls, 
Mrs. Craig was "making sentiment," as 
she called it, among those who saw the 
other side of the shield. Women's Clubs 
gave her an opportunity to present her 
work, and it was more talked of than 
any essay on Maeterlinck. Many were 
the confessions poured out in the quiz 
that followed a paper: 

"I keep only Chinese because they 
are willing to be servants." 

"Would your girl expect pretty 
rooms ?" 

"Are you sure the training does not 
make them above their work?" 

"Really, I never thought of servant 
girls as being just like us. If I could 
get just the right kind" — 

Sentiment changed rapidly, and it was 
no longer considered creditable to relate 
•one's trials with household help.. One 
who made many plaints was sure to be 
stopped with, 

"Why don't you go to the Housekeep- 
ers' Guild?" 

Mrs. Craig gives generously to the 
Home, but she does not help to send any 
girls there. A number of shop girls 
have entered the Guild. When Mrs. 
Craig counts the self-reliant, well-trained 
girls of the Guild and includes Ivy, who 
is now in a home of her own, she feels 
that her idea has bloomed, and she gives 
the credit largely to Pauline Day. And 
before the picture in the oak frame, Mrs. 
Craig murmurs, "Surely this was best, 
though it has taken me more or less 
from the library we both loved. But if 
we had a daughter — " 




October Strawberries 

By Helen Campbell 



THAT the October strawberry 
bed is the chief fact to be con- 
sidered does not alter or abol- 
ish the primal one that the Spitzenberg 
apple-tree began it, and this is how: 

The old Templeton farm, tilled for 
many generations after the usual man- 
ner of old New England, had fallen into 
the hands of the last heir in the direct 
line, a woman unhappily, the village 
people said, for what could a woman do 
with the exhausted land and the tum- 
ble-down house and out-buildings? 
That she had no money had been at 
once decided, since she had been a 
school teacher for most of her life, and 
must therefore necessarily be poor, 
for who ever had heard of a rich 
school teacher? And, as the teaching 
had been done in New York, how could 
or should she know the first letter even 
of the Agricultural alphabet? 

"I tell you it's the last of the old 
place," Deacon Perkins said solemnly 
to the evening circle about the stove in 
the village store. "It might better have 
come to the town for a kind of hospital, 
maybe, or some such usefulness, for 
what can this old maid — I would say 
maiden lady well on in years — do with a 
place gone to seed anyhow, and likely 
to be a disgrace to the town for its 
looks, if she settles down in it? They 
say all her stuff has come along, furni- 
ture and things she had in a flat in 
New York, but where'll she put it, with 
the house jam full of everything every 
generation of Templetons up and 
buyed? They was all wasters and 
spoilers ; good natured enough, but car- 
ing for no man's word but their own, 
and the old judge out and out an in- 
fiddle and glorying in it? What she 
may be we can't tell, but one thing is 
sure, — she ain't a farmer and the old 



place is done for at last," and Deacon 
Wilkins shook his head and took an- 
other cracker from the barrel near the 
stove. 

''Templetons mostly did what they 
set out to do," said the junior deacon, 
after a pause in which he chewed a 
slender strip of codfish meditatively. 
'Tt wouldn't be surprising if she turns 
out diiTerent from what folks makes up 
their minds to. In fact I should say 
it was certain she would, and it's none 
of our business anyhow." 

''Stick to that," said Cummings with 
a grin, as the deacon took his fourth 
Boston cracker and another strip of 
codfish. "Stick to that and it'll be bet- 
ter for all of us," and he turned to the 
small boy who demanded a bulls-eye 
and who announced as he received it: 

"There's lights up to Templetons an' 
folks movin' round. She's come, for 
I've seen her, an' she ain't half as old 
as folks said. I say she's pretty near 
young." 

"She's forty if she's a day," said the 
deacon, "and I know, for her father an' 
me was about the same age so I can 
calculate- pretty well," and with a final 
cracker he nodded a good night to the 
circle and went out and up the old road. 
There were lights and he stopped a mo- 
ment before the great gate, and laid his 
hand on the latch, and then shook his 
head and went on. 

It was a week later that Deacon 
Wilkins, coming down from his upper 
pasture by the short cut through Tem- 
pleton's, paused by an old apple-tree at 
whose foot yawned almost a cavern 
into which a slender energetic lady was 
looking investigatingly. 

"What were they trying to do here?" 
she asked as the deacon took off his 
hat, then settled it again firmly on his 



126 



OCTOBER STRAWBERRIES 



127 



bald head with both hands and met her 
eyes, very blue and very frank like the 
old judge's. 

"Boys," said the deacon briefly as if 
that one word explained all problems. 
*lt got about somehow a while ago 
that a treasure was buried at the roots, 
your granther hiding it in the war of 
1812, and they took to diggin' after the 
old judge died, but never 'come to 
nothin'. You see the tree was pretty 
near dead anyhow, but it was the best 
Spitzenberg in the township. Them 
apples couldn't be beat. I swan to gra- 
cious ! If there ain't some fresh sprouts 
on that old limb this minute ! Well I 
never!" 

"There's life in the old tree yet!" 
said the new owner. "It was sod- 
bound and tired out with fighting for 
life, but it has another chance and I'll 
see that it is a good one." 

"She's good as her word," the deacon 
said a day or two later as passing by 
he stopped to watch Miss Templeton, 
armed with scrubbing brush and pail 
of strong suds, scrubbing the lower 
limbs and trunk with a vigor that spoke 
well for her strength. "Now who told 
her that that was a new kink that you 
couldn't have made a man son of them 
round here listen to a minute? Any- 
how it's nigh frost time and she won't 
make much out of it this year, but I 
wouldn't say the old tree mightn't take 
a new start for awhile. If it does I'll 
have a graft. Them apples couldn't be 
beat, an' the paper had it last fall, 
Spitzenbergs was sellin' for a dollar a 
dozen in Boston, an' never enough to 
be had. Why don't we folks here start 
in an' take some trouble with the 
trees?" 

Miss Templeton in the meantime had 
left her pail under ^:he old tree and gone 
on toward what had been the garden, 
once the glory of the place, but now a 
mass of weeds and briers. There were 
box-ordered flower beds where asters 
still held scattered blooms, and beyond 
was a long bed, through the crowding 



weeds of which the vigorous green of 
strawberry leaves showed itself. 

"Good promise for next Spring," she 
said, stooping over the bed, and then 
followed a long "Oh-h !" for, as she 
parted the leaves, berries red and ripe, 
big and perfect in size were before her. 
"It's a kind of miracle, and they must 
be sour," she said, and put one doubt- 
fully in her mouth. 

"They're sweet!" she cried in another 
moment of tasting. "I never heard of 
such a thing!" and now she paused sud- 
denly. "Yes, but I have! Didn't old 
Dr. Simmons tell me one day last au- 
tumn how he had strawberries almost 
to the end of the year, and I only half 
believed him. How did he do it is the 
next thing? I'll write him and find out, 
for berries like these might mean at this 
season a dollar a box in New York. 
I will write him to-day. In the mean- 
time I will investigate this bed and see 
if there are any more," 

There were more, so many more that 
she went in for a pan and had nearly a 
quart of excellent berries as the result. 
There were other strawberry plants, 
scores of them, but no more berries. 

"Something particular must have 
happened in just this spot,' she medi- 
tated. "I don't know but what the Doctor 
will tell me. As for me, I am certain 
I am going to be a raiser of whatever 
this land is good for. The Call of the 
Wild is all very well, but the Call of 
the Land is just as potent for some of 
us anyhow ; and now for the letter." 

Three days later came an answer 
which Miss Templeton read till she 
knew it by heart. 

"Good for you !" it began. "I 
thought you'd find a specialty when you 
had studied the old place a bit. I have 
just eaten a strawberry shortcake or 
my allotment of it. It was made from 
October strawberries raised by a man 
who put forty boxes on exhibition at 
the State Fair, and sent some to other 
exhibitions, the last time sending them 
to the Grange of his own township, 



128 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



where they were made into strawberry 
shortcake, to the astonishment of all 
who ate and could thus testify that the 
berries did not come out of a can. All 
there is to it is that, if you want Fall 
berries instead of June, you must pinch 
off all the blossoms and the fruit-stems 
till about three weeks before you w^ant 
the fruit. But you can have a good 
June crop, a big one, if you learn the 
best way with the cultivating. Straight 
on till mid-September or early October 
even, pinch off every blossom as di- 
rected. You'll find it will keep you 
busy for awhile. The common straws- 
berry gives one good crop in two years, 
an ever bearing strawberry three crops 
in two years. There is a so-called ever- 
bearing berry that is a poor thing and 
not to be depended upon. But one of 
our Grangers has a new plant that is 
genuinely ever-bearing, the beginning 
of a new race of strawberries. You 
wondered how you were going to live, 
if you gave up teaching. You knoAV 
now. The ground must be kept clear 
of all weeds and you must be on the 
watch for frosts and cover the beds at 
night. Mulch with pine-needles ; bush- 
els of them in the pines beyond your 
big pasture. I have only had to cover 
my plants twice so far. I believe the 
plants would bear all winter if it were 
not for freezes, for they are loaded now 
with blossoms and green fruit. I send 
you the address of the dealer who will 
take every one you can raise. In short, 
you will have a specialty, and that is 
money every time for man or woman." 
There were tears in her eyes as she 
folded the letter. 'To think that the 
way is really clear to a living," she said. 
"Thank God ! I didn't know if I could 



keep the old place but now I know." 

'T told you she was a mite teched, 
like most of the other Templetons," 
the old deacon said some months later, 
''but I'm inclined to admit she's, got 
more sense than all the rest of them 
put together. I'd have said, if she had 
told me she was going to raise October 
strawberries, that she was plum crazy, 
but she done it, an', what's more, made 
her first batch of crates with her own 
hands in the Judge's little work shop 
he used to fool round in. She learned 
how, she says, at a school in New York. 
I tell you she knows how to use her 
hands. As for that Spitzenberg tree 
it's took a new lease. It had nine bush- 
els of apples this Fall an' she did up 
each one in tissue paper an' packed 
them same as them growers out in Ore- 
gon an' Washington do, an' Lord 
knows what it may do next year, for 
she's pruned an' scrubbed an' fertil- 
ized, an' whatever else come into her 
head, an' there it is ! She's got five 
hundred plants set out in her straw- 
berry field, an' she's going to have 
more. I say we'd better make her 
honorary member of whatever there is 
going on in this town, for there couldn't 
be a bigger credit to it, even if she does 
wear bloomers, when she's in the field. 
My wife is fussy enough, but she hain't 
a word to say agin it. 'Women ain't 
all fools,' she says, 'though some of us 
is pesky nigh it, an' I say more of us 
might go to work the same way. She's 
spry as a cricket an' considable younger 
lookin' than when she first come.' 
That's what my wife said to me, so 
it's so. There's money in the land 
morer'n we know, an' we'd better be- 
gin to realize it." 




A Brief for Husbands 

By Kate Gannett Wells 



THE snobbishness of excellent 
wives towards ordinary men, 
who yet are possessors of real 
moral integrity is often ludicrous. 
Such women seem to regard their hus- 
bands as below or beyond the kinship 
ties of blood, as merely their connec- 
tions by marriage, which, therefore, all 
the more entitles them as wives to the 
convenience of divorce. 

They severely assume that husbands 
ought to behave themselves, with- 
standing all temptations to petty graft, 
subterfuge or dishonesty. And, of 
course, they ought to or else not be hus- 
bands. But that is no reason why 
there should not be grateful, even if 
silent, recognition of their virtue. For- 
tunately women are too clannish to do 
much "muck raking" among their own 
folks, though they may pursue this pop- 
ular pastime with avidity in other peo- 
ple's families. For all that, they do not 
keenly appreciate the everyday hard 
working kind of men, who fold their 
napkins (when they have any), across 
their chests instead of placing them in 
their lap, and who peel their potatoes 
as if they were shearing sheep. Yet, 
after all, their wives may be in love 
with them, since the capacity to fall in 
love and to appreciate are two different 
qualities of the heart. 

The constant trivial temptations of men 
and women are so alike and yet so dif- 
ferent that perhaps it is difficult to real- 
ize the besetting nature of bad habits 
which are not one's own. Luckily, ow- 
ing to the innate chivalry of men, they 
do not disparage their wives and daugh- 
ters as semi-unconsciously as women do 
their husbands, but not their boys, for 
grown-up sons have somewhat of the 
charm of lovers to their mothers. It is 
intolerable when women seek sympathy 



of each other because their husbands 
neither understand nor sympathize with 
them. At least, such complainants might 
add, when they can truthfully, that their 
men folks are as good as gold. If there 
were only half as many newspaper stor- 
ies and worthy novels representing the 
good a man does a woman as there are 
papers and books setting forth the sub- 
lime effect of women upon men, the pros 
and cons of mutual valuations might get 
evened up. It is a tremendous achieve- 
ment to grow up to manhood good and 
then, when claims of all kinds are press- 
ing upon one, to still keep simply honest, 
even if cross, — and that is what average 
husbands are doing. 

In some regions of fancy or locality it 
is a popular fiction that a woman's work 
is harder than a man's, inasmuch as hers 
is never done and his counts by the legal 
day of appointed hours. Yet reckoning 
by the years all through life there are as 
many hours of labor for the one as for 
the other. Certainly there comes the 
time to a woman when her babies are 
grown up, while her husband, on general 
principles, has to keep on working just 
as hard after he is fifty years old as be- 
fore. Then as soon as he has placed his 
family in comfortable circumstances his 
wife has more chances to take a nap and 
play bridge than he has. If men com- 
plained as much of their work as some 
women do of theirs, women soon would 
be more tired of their husbands than the 
latter are of their wives. Housework is 
tiresome, but is it not on the whole less 
tiresome to work for one's family than to 
live all alone and get one's own meals 
and never be either scolded or loved? 
Loneliness is worse than hard work, and 
the realest hardships for women, that 
make marriage harder for them than for 
men, are those which it is alike impolitic 



129 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



or impolite to discuss. 

Probably a chief cause of grievance in 
marriage is the adjustment of moneys. 
Some experts advocate the wife's receiv- 
ing a certain sum as weekly wages, which 
at once puts the marriage relation on an 
ignoble and untenable basis. Neither 
husband nor wife is the employe of the 
other. The wife, as wife, is as much 
entitled to a proportionate share of her 
husband's earnings as he is to a share in 
the comforts of the home she manages. 
But women are so afraid to speak out, 
in the very beginning of their joint life, 
lest such speech should seem too busi- 
ness like, — and most men are not told by 
their mothers how to treat their wives 
to whom they would prefer to be gen- 
erous rather than merely just. Women's 
cowardice and unselfishness is at the bot- 
tom of half their troubles. If they would 
have that kind of self-respect which is 
neither obstinate nor aggressive, men 
would never forget what is due them. 
The wife must not be forgotten in the 
mother, nor must the husband be forgot- 
ten in -the business man or laborer. What 
a man is as father will depend upon what 
he first is as husband. Before the chil- 
dren come and when they have come, one 
should never forget to be the self-re- 
specting parent, in order to be a self- 
sacrificing mother or father. 

Many a man's first notions of the in- 
feriority of women are derived from the 
way in which he sees his mother disre- 
gard herself. I have seen women bring 
in a hod of coal or split kindlings which 
their husbands considered as natural, 



wifely deeds, while they sat quiet and 
comfortable. It was not their fault, it 
was the meekness of their mothers who 
were to blame for needlessly accepting 
such duties ; inherited notions are strang- 
ling to effective helpfulness. Better is it 
for a son to think of his mother as the 
woman whom his father adored than as 
of a saint who bore his father's cross- 
ness. What she needs to do is, before her 
marriage, to assert her dignity in words 
and to claim it by promise. Then, after 
marriage, to maintain it by all wifely 
charms, by the dignity of her labor as 
housekeeper and by the clear sightedness 
of mother wit, never allowing inattention 
to each other to creep into married life. 

If he likes pies and she is so hygienic 
that she disapproves of pastry, why 
should she not yield her conviction to his 
taste and bake him pies. Ever so many 
kind, commonplace men are goaded into 
discomfort by their wives, who want to 
improve them. To be made happy and 
comfortable is the best way of being im- 
proved, and if the wife feels that her 
intellectual nature is being warped and 
her affections stunted (the current 
phrases), let them be, — as far as this 
life is concerned, and cultivate a strong 
faith in immortality, as final consolation. 

Still when marriage is lacking in all 
that it should be, when each glance given 
or received is not a benediction, then is 
gentleness needed in judgment of one 
another. For it is the things that cannot 
be told which give the deep look to the 
eyes of woman and carve the patient 
strong lines upon the faces of men. 



Golden Rod 

By Edith C. Lane 



Feathery spikes of golden bloom, 
Tall and straight as a knightly plume, 
Basking in the sunlight, 
A vision of delight. 



On the prairies measureless sweep, 
A lonely vigil they keep, 
'Midst Sage Brush sere and brown, 
Only the stars looking down. 



Lightly swaying to and fro, 
Where balmy south winds blow. 
By the setting sun caressed, 
As it slowly sinks to rest. 



The Veranda Girls 



By Virginia Church 
PART I. 
The %)eranJa Girls Form a Club and K. C. Gives the First Luncheon 



THEY call us the Veranda Girls 
because, when we were together, 
which was every day — we just 
'Couldn't stay indoors, but had our "talk- 
fests" on the porch, each of us being 
fortunate enough to have one at her 
liome. We had graduated together in 
the same class, at the same college, and 
now, home again, we lived in the same 
or neighboring suburbs of Boston. Doll 
Fallqws was a quaint fairhaired little' 
witch who lived in a beautiful old- 
fashioned home, surrounded by elms, 
in Newton Highlands. Chrystabelle 
Ellis, tall, almond-eyed and graceful, 
had a splendid home in Auburndale, 
with gardens that rolled in terraces 
'down to the Charles River. We called 
her "our bloated aristocrat," though she 
wasn't a bit snobbish, but just a little 
different. Her family called it the ar- 
tistic temperament. Sue Breckenbridge 
and I lived across the street from each 
'Other, in Newton Center, in plain, comfy 
homes, without any particular style or 
pretence, but satisfying us and always 
■open to our friends. The girls called me 
Casey ; from my initials, K. C.~and you'd 
never know from them in a thousand 
years, that I had the dignified name of 
Katherine Carter. 

"Girls," said Doll Fallows one af ter- 
tioon in June, as the four of us sat on 
Chrystabelle's back veranda admiring 
the view down the Charles River and 
munching fudge, "we've simply got to 
keep together. We're miles apart, except 
Casey and Sue, and unless we're careful, 
we'll be forming horrid new friends and 
getting weaned away from each other. 

'We just mustn't. Sue murmurned. 



I scouted the notion, but felt kind of 
lumpy in the throat. It was then that 
Chrystabelle proposed the club. It is 
always Chrys who has the ideas, — we do 
the work, and that's right too, for her 
suggestions are the inspiration of gen- 
ius and geniuses aren't supposed to work. 

When we went home fairly bubbling 
over with the plans of our new club, our 
elderly male relatives joked us merci- 
lessly. Doll telephoned over that her 
Uncle Jim was too mean to live and my 
brother Jack was the limit. 

"Is it Browning or Ibsen?" he jeered. 
"Will your first paper be on the Latest 
Psychological Discovery in Bonnets, or 
Literary Germs and How to Eradicate 
Them?" 

When I announced that it wasn't to 
be a Literary society at all, but a Lunch- 
eon Club, and we were each to give one 
during the winter. Jack howled. 

"So," he cried, "you haughty graduates 
are only hungry girls, after all, with a 
very thin college veneering." 

Mother was helping him to a third 
piece of pie at the time and I retorted 
that Yale hadn't seemed to take his 
appetite. Then he tried to make up and 
inquired if he would be invited. I was 
glad to be able to say "no" very sharply, 
and to explain that only girls were to be 
asked, the hostess of the day being 
allowed two invitations outside the quar- 
tette, thus seating six at table. 

The first luncheon came sooner, than 
any of us expected and was of my plan- 
ing. It happened this way. I had a 
letter the very next day from Bev Whit- 
ney and Constance Allen, saying they 
were coming to visit me for a week. I 



131 



132 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



thought this would be a dandy chance to 
show off the club, so I telephoned the 
others and they said "go ahead." 

A week later I sent out four invitations 
to a College Luncheon and had four 
acceptances before evening. 

Our college colors were green and 
white, so I began to plan a green and 
white menu. I asked mother what I 
could color things with to make them 
green and not kill us. She told me the 
water from boiled spinach made a lovely 
clear green, was harmless and, mixed 
with other flavors, had no taste. Mother 
is all right and knows a lot, though she 
didn't go to the college. 

Ij or rather Jack for me, printed my 
menus on cards headed by our college 
seal and they read as follows : 

Puree of Asparagus a la Boat Club 

Biological Club Crab 

Gymnasium Rolls and Basket Balls 

Golf Club Meet Golf Balls and Sticks 

Faculty Salad (Cheese it!) 

A Class Tourna-mint! 

Cake and Bonbons 

Coffee 

Of course all this would be so much 
Greek to an outsider and not sound good 
at all, but, when translated, it was fine, 
if I do say it myself. You see Connie 
was president of the Boat Club and the 
soup was in her honor. It was cream 
of asparagus, made from a can of the 
tips, and had two httle boats floating on 
the top of each plateful, to represent our 
canoes. They were made of almond 
shells and had a tiny paper flag stuck in 
the prow of each. Jack wanted me to 
put a foot-note on the cards saying this 
was no shell game and that the guests 
were not to eat the decorations. 

Doll was the leading spirit of Biolog- 
ical Club, hence the crab. It was simply 
creamed with green peppers and served 
in pastry shells. Gymnasium rolls were 
so called just to be suggestive of some 
of the unsightly evolutions we all had to 
go through in gym. In reality they were 
small Parker House rolls, served hot. 
The idea of the basket-balls I considered 
a stroke of genius. Jack again came to 



my assistance and played carpenter. He 
made six little standards and erected 
them over the six bread and butter 
plates. On each of these we tacked a 
small, round coffee strainer which looked 
exactly like the baskets at either end of 
the gym. Into each basket was dropped ; 
just before we went into the dining-room 
a ball of butter worked until light. This 
made a hit with the girls and was worth 
the trouble in construction. 

The six of us had belonged to the Golf 
Club, and though ''meet" was a horrible 
pun on my veal loaf, it succeeded in in- 
creasing the hilarity of the feast which 
was the primary object. The veal was 
made by this recipe which mother thinks 
a good one: Grind three pounds of lean 
veal and one-half a pound of salt pork, 
mix into the meat a small onion, chopped 
fine, a cup of bread crumbs and two 
well-beaten eggs. Season with one-half 
a teaspoonful of kitchen boquet, salt, 
pepper and parsley. If too dry, add suf- 
ficient water to moisten. I had the meat 
baked in individual models which rep- 
resented our Golf Club house. I hoisted 
a small paper flag on top of each and set 
them in a lettuce leaf. The golf balls 
were simply boiled peas and the golf 
sticks were potatoes cut and fried in 
long slender strips, the shape and size 
of a large match. 

The Faculty salad was individual 
jelled cucumbers, made by scraping out 
the inner part of six medium-sized cu- 
cumbers, dressing with olive oil, vinegar, 
paprika and salt; mixing with two 
tablespoonfuls of gelatine, dissolved in 
hot water, and pouring into individual 
molds with a few nut-meats on top of 
each. This, served on lettuce with may- 
onnaise, makes one of the most delicious 
salads imaginable, — a slice of lemon is 
served with each and on the side a ball 
of cream cheese, into two sides of 
which are pressed the halves of an 
olive. 

In the tourna-mint, I perpetrated an- 
other pun. This course was mint-ice, 
the directions for which are : Take the 



THE VERANDA GIRLS 



133 



juice of three lemons, the crushed and 
grated leaves of a bunch of mint, a 
tablespoonful of spinach juice as color- 
ing, a pound of sugar, the liquor from 
a pint bottle of creme de menthe cher- 
ries and a quart of water. Heat this 
mixture to the boiling point; then cool 
and freeze. When frozen to the con- 
sistency of snow, stir in the creme de 
menthe cherries and set aside in the 
freezer until ready to serve. This mint 
snow is most effective when heaped in 
tall glasses with a sprig of mint in each. 
The cakes were iced green and the bon- 
bons, pistache. 

A green and white color scheme makes 
an easy table to decorate. I used white 
rosebuds and green ferns. At the four 
corners of the table were silver candle- 
sticks, in which green candles were 
shaded by fluffy green shades. The 
girls all knew me well enough to make 
remarks about the table, which they de- 
clared was a dream of loveliness and, 
when the green food began to appear. 



to guy me mercilessly. Bev announced 
that she was glad that she wasn't a 
widow with little children depending 
upon her, for then she would never dare 
eat the green mixtures that I had con- 
cocted out of a spirit of college loyalty. 

She wanted to know why the Faculty 
Salad was so called. Was it because we 
were handed a lemon? Chrys thought 
it was ''because they were fresh young 
things." The tourna-nlint proved too 
much even for their forbearance, and 
they threw hard epithets at me in lieu 
of any more available ammunition. 

Anyway the luncheon was a great suc- 
cess, and Doll Fallows wanted to have 
hers next week, only Chrys persuaded 
her to wait at least until our digestive 
organs were again normal and, besides, 
she argued, if we all had them right 
away, there wouldn't be any left for 
Winter. So Doll gave in, though she's 
to have the next one when it does come 
off. 



When Maple Leaves Begin to Fall 



By L. M. Thornton 



I did not know it by the golden glory 

Of sun flowers nodding toward their chosen 
god; 
I did not learn it from the old, old story 

Each season told by stalks of golden rod. 
I did not credit all the robins told me 

Or yet the crickets' bold, insistent call, 
But I was sure that Autumn would enfold me 

When maple leaves began to fall. 



I did not know it by the lazy turning 

Of lazy bees, that early sought their cells; 
I did not credence give the sumac, burning 

Crimson as flame, though much its beauty 
tells. 
I could not trust the message of the clover, 

Brown leaved against the mossy orchard 
wall, 
But well I knew the Summer days were over, 

When maple leaves began to fall. 



I did not feel convinced by West winds sigh- 
ing, 

Or smoky haze that hid away the sun, 
I looked unmoved and saw the rushes dying 

The asters' petals scattered one by one. 
I shut my eyes and all forebodings routed, 

Autumn's sure signs, I quite disdained them 
all. 
But at the last, my heart no longer doubted 

When maple leaves began to fall. 



134 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor 

PUBLISHID TEN TIMES A YEAR 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street Boston, Mass. 

Subscription ^1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 

Foreign Postage .• To Canada, 20c per Year 

To OTHER Foreign Countries 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires ; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 



BESIDE THE SEA 
By the blue sea I sit and dream ! 
The moon is high, the wind's asleep, 
A Sabbath calm broods o'er the deep; 
While ships, like lilies, lie at rest 
Upon the water's quiet breast, 
And mild the heavens that bend above, 
A canopy of tender love. 
In reverence hushed all things doth seem, 
So by the sea I sit and dream. 

By the blue sea I rest content! 

The yesterdays with longing fraught. 

All sorrows that the years have brought, 

I give them to the ebbing tide 

To scatter, scatter far and wide ; 

E'en memories that sometime bless 

Of service sweet, or happiness 

Found in dim woods, by lake or stream, 

Seem drifting from me as I dream. 

By the blue sea I live anew! 
Unto my soul a glad, new morn 
Is silently but surely born. 
For peace and tardy hope have come 
Within my heart to make their home; 
The larger life, with portals wide, 
Comes toward me on the flowing tide, 
And entering it, at once I seem 
With God, as by the sea I dream. 

Lucia W. K'ames 



EDITORIAL 

THE Boston Cooking School 
Magazine has been under the 
same editorial conduct and management 
since the first issue in 1896. In these 
years no change has been made, either in 
the name or in the character of the pub- 
lication. The magazine has been no im- 
itator, nor has it copied after the matter 
or style of other periodicals. It has rid- 
den no hobbies, laid claims to no great 
inventions, nor has it boasted to have 
inspired and led the reforms of the age. 
At the same time it has striven stead- 
fastly to render immediate and useful ser- 
vice in the more practical concerns of 
housekeeping, to the end that progress 
might be made in the conditions of 
healthful, happy life in the home. 

The editor of the magazine, a photo- 
graph of whom is presented in the pres- 
ent number, has had long and uninter- 
rupted experience in housekeeping. This 
experience she has summed up and put 
into practice, both in giving instruction 
to others and in the composition of 
books, of which a fifth volume is now in 
press. 

Thus the authority and reliability of the 
Cooking School Magazine has come to 
be well known and widely recognized. In 
its special line of effort it may be said to 
be somewhat unique. It aims to do one 
thing and to do that well. Our constant 
desire is to publish a journal that shall 
meet the ever growing needs of earnest, 
intelligent housekeepers everywhere. 

HOUSEKEEPING AND METHOD 

A WITTY woman once said that 
housekeeping consists in tak- 
ing things out and putting them back. 
One might elaborate the statement by 
saying that good housekeeping consists 
in getting the things back in the right 
places, and easy housekeeping consists 
in having places enough for the things. 
"The right thing in the right place" is. 
one of the most threadbare of domestic 
commonplaces. It is one of the sayings. 



EDITORIALS 



135 



one quotes glibly without realizing its 
significance. System and method are 
the two keynotes of the smoothly run- 
ning household. System means good 
planning, and method means precision. 
Cast-iron rules are as undesirable as 
negligence, but the happy medium be- 
tween caretaking and carelessness 
makes a happy home. 

Nowhere is the use of brains more 
valuable than in domestic economy. 
Ingenious devices for lightening labor 
are constantly placed on the market, 
but they must be supplemented by the 
ingenuity of the homemaker in arrang- 
ing her tools to the best possible ad- 
vantage. Even such trifles as matches, 
pins, scissors, pens and pencils should 
be properly supplied in the proper 
places. Implements for sweeping, and 
above all, for cooking, should be ar- 
ranged in a well-thought-out system. 
The woman whose brains save her time 
and strength has leisure and opportu- 
nity to enlarge her horizon far beyond 
the four walls of her house. 

COMFORTING TO BEGINNERS 

T N the early stages of housekeeping, 
there are many details which loom 
large to the uninitiated. To get several 
hot dishes on the table simultaneously — 
or several ice-cold ones, as the case may 
be — to plan supplies and menus over 
Sundays and holidays, to arrange big 
dinners for easy days and left-over din- 
ners for busy days, the hearty meals for 
cold days and the light ones for hot days, 
to match variety with economy, ancE 
please everybody all the time, such a 
programme often looks more difficult 
than it really is. The experienced house- 
keeper has almost forgotten that such 
difficulties exist. Facility in planning 
becomes second nature, a fixed habit, 
and mind and muscle move easily in 
accustomed grooves. Experience also 
brings a certain degree of philosophy. 
One learns to make the best of things. 
If the grocer and iceman fail, the milk 



sours and the meat is tough, it is no fault 
of hers, and she does not take it to heart. 
She has learned, too, some simple tricks 
by which to minimize these trials. There 
is no better way to get used to house- 
keeping than to keep house. Each week 
is easier than the last. Every month- 
end sees a larger total of acquirements, 
a fuller mastery of domestic problems, 
a maturer judgment, and a stronger self- 
confidence. A beginner has her troubles, 
but every step counts. Apprenticeship 
culminates in triumphant accomplish- 
ment. 

NOISELESS HOUSEKEEPING 

IT is interesting to notice the differ- 
ence in housekeepers in the- matter 
of noise. Some cannot wash a few tea- 
cups and saucers without a clattering of 
china which sounds like a restaurant 
kitchen. Others could wash with much 
less noise the cooking and dinner dishes 
of a large family. So, too, in sweeping, 
some must bang the broom or mop 
against every piece of furniture in the 
room, while others get through the task 
almost noiselessly. The opening and 
shutting of doors and windows is another 
test of temperament. With some it is 
always a slam or a click; with others an 
imperceptible motion. There are well- 
bred women who step about the house as 
heavily as men, and others whose 
springy, elastic step is without sound or 
jar. 

All these things are, in the first place, 
a question of natural constitution, but 
the force of habit can make or unmake 
the original bent of the person. Noise 
in housekeeping is really entirely unnec- 
essary. It is an absurd idea that it is 
easier to work noisily than quietly. The 
truth is exactly the reverse. Noise is a 
frightful waste of energy. It makes 
labor much more fatiguing, both to the 
laborer and the listener. It means su- 
perfluous muscular exertion, and conse- 
quent weariness. It wears upon the 
nerves. All sorts of devices are in- 



136 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



vented to make machines noiseless, but 
it still remains to teach women the art 
of noiseless housekeeping. 

THE PRINCIPLE OF DOMESTIC 
SELECTION 

THE busy housekeeper with a 
multitude of details to occupy 
her, often has to choose among the sev- 
eral things calling for her attention. 
If there is ''only one pair of hands," 
there are times when something must 
be neglected. The principle of selec- 
tion is always in operation. The ques- 
tion of each day is, What to do next? 
What is of prime importance? What 
can be postponed? Happy the house- 
hold where the homemaker answers 
these questions wisely. When a fran- 
tic effort is made to do the impossible, 
everybody is miserable. But when 
tasks are fitted to time and strength, 
the atmosphere of content is worth 
more than faultless order. 

The natural inclination is to attend 
first to the things which are most in 
evidence. Shining faucets, a bright 
tea-kettle and a polished stove make a 
brave show in the kitchen. But how 
about the refrigerator and the garbage 
can? Dainty towels and a spotless mir- 
ror make a bathroom attractive. But 
how about the bowls? Most of us have 
noted with admiration and envy cer- 
tain outward signs of neatness in our 
neighbors and sighed that we could 
not keep pace with them. But appear- 
ances are sometimes deceitful. Im- 
maculate exteriors do not always mean 
corresponding neatness elsewhere. The 
first things, in order, are the essentials : 
the affairs of sanitary and hygienic 
importance. The ornamental and ex- 
ternal should always be secondary to 
matters which concern the health. The 
excellence of housekeeping, in the last 
analysis, depends upon the things be- 
hind the scenes. / e. m. h. 



of the stupidity of his helpers, of the 
ingratitude of mankind, nor of the in- 
appreciation of the public. 

These things are all a part of the 
great game of life, and to meet them 
and not go down before them in dis- 
couragement and defeat is the final 
proof of power. — Elbert Hubbard. 



The history of the Twentieth Century 
fully written out, that is, written out 
fully enough to be intelligible to our pos- 
terity, say five hundred years hence, 
would fill more volumes than "The De- 
cline and Fall of Rome." More things 
have happened that were new in the 
experience of men and nations, more 
new forces have been set in motion, and 
more enterprises undertaken for the 
benefit of mankind than came into view 
in the whole range of Gibbon's exhaus- 
tive studies. The moving pictures now 
thrown on the screen of history show 
vast changes going on everywhere. On 
all the continents, empires are shifting 
the balance of power with one another 
and, in a way unprecedented in any for- 
mer ages, are redressing the inequalities 
of condition and privilege which once 
seemed hopelessly to separate the rich 
from the poor, the learned from the 
ignorant, and the righteous from the 
wicked. From chemistry to theology, 
from practical science to social ameliora- 
tion, the fields of thought and action have 
been cleared, so that for every form of 
human endeavor the outlook is more en- 
couraging than ever before. — Christian 
Register. 



T 



HE man who is worthy of being a 
leader of men will never complain 



''Economics changes man's activities. 
As you change a man's activities you 
change his way of living, and as you 
change his environment you change his 
state of mind. Precept and injunction 
do not perceptibly affect men ; but food, 
water, air, clothing, shelter, pictures, 
books, music, will and do." 




MILK BREAD, FRENCH BREAD AND RYE-MEAL BISCUIT 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting- 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful* 



Consomme, Espagnole 

PREPARE a broth of a knuckle of 
veal, three pounds of beef from 
the hind shin and a fowl. Add the 
fowl after the veal and beef have been 
cooking one hour or longer, and remove 
it as soon as it is tender. Remove the fat 
from the broth and clarify it in the usual 
manner. Before serving add two or 
three cooked pimentos, cut in small 
squares, and about a cup of hot boiled 
rice. 

Consomme, Dubarry 

Prepare a royal custard in the usual 
manner, but add to it eight or ten 
blanched almonds, cut in fine shreds. 
When cooked and cold cut in cubes. 
Have ready, also, tiny flowerets of cooked 
cauliflower and half an ounce of cooked 
rice. Serve a tablespoonful of the rice 
and about half a dozen pieces, each, of 
the cubes of custard and flowerets of 
cauhflower in each plate of soup. 



Cream of Cucumber Soup 

Peel three large cucumbers, cut them 
in quarters and discard the seeds. Slice 
the pulp, cover with cold water, heat 
quickly to the boiling point, drain, rinse 
in cold water and drain again. Melt two 
tablespoonf uls of butter in a stew pan ; 
add the cucumber and let cook very 
slowly about half an hour; add half a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper, half 
a teaspoonful of sugar and one quart of 
chicken or veal broth and let simmer 
very gently twenty minutes. Melt one- 
fourth a cup of butter, — in it cook half 
a cup of flour ; add two cups of milk and 
stir until boiling; strain the cucumber 
and broth into the sauce. Beat the yolks 
of two eggs ; dilute with half a cup of 
cream and stir into the soup. Do not 
allow the soup to boil after the addition 
of the yolks and cream. Serve with 
croutons. 



Turbans of Halibut a la Comtesse 



137 



138 



THE BOSTON COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




TURBAXS OF HALIBUT, COMTESSE. READY TO BAKE IN PAPER BAG 



To serve eight, purchase two slices of 
halibut cut below the opening in the body 
of the fish, and weighing, w^hen cut. about 
half an inch thick, about one pound and 
a quarter, each. Remove the fillets, eight 
in number. Put the bones and trimmings 
over the fire with two slices of onion, 
half a small carrot, two branches of 
parsley, a stalk of celery and cold water 
to cover. Let simmer twenty minutes. 
Over the fillets squeeze the juice of half a 
lemon and sprinkle a level teaspoonful of 
grated onion, a tablespoonful of fine- 
chopped parsley, two tablespoonfuls of 
fine-chopped mushrooms with salt and 
pepper. When ready to cook roll up the 
fillets separately, fastening each with a 
wooden toothpick dipped in melted but- 
ter. Set them in a paper bag designed 
for the purpose, add half a cup, each, 
of sherry wine and stock and the chopped 
ingredients that remain in the dish. 
Fasten the bag by folding the open edges 
together tw^o or three times, and secur- 



ing the same with two or three wire 
"clips." Set the bag on a meat rack into 
a moderate oven. Let cook about twenty 
minutes. Cut open the bag and dispose 
the fish on a serving dish, pouring over 
it the liquid in the bag. 

Breaded Veal Cutlet, Baked 

Dip veal cutlets into a beaten egg, 
diluted with an equal measure of milk, 
and then into sifted bread or cracker 
crumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper. 
Put into a paper bag and close the bag 
in the usual manner. Set the bag on a 
rack in the oven. Bake about forty 
minutes. 

Boned Leg of Lamb, Stuffed 
and Baked 

Remove the bone from a "short" leg of 
yearling lamb. Fill the open space with 
bread dressing. Season the meat with 
salt and pepper and spread the outside 
liberally with bacon fat or dripping. 




TURBANS OF HALIBUT, COMTESSE, READY TO SERVE 
CYLINDERS OF POTATO IN CENTER 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



139 



Spread the inner side of the paper bag 
with dripping, put in the meat and close 
the bag secure. Set the bag on a rack 
into a hot oven. Let cook about tVvO 
hours, reducing the heat after the first 
fifteen minutes. 

Cornish Cutlets 

Trim slices of cold meat, preferably 
yeal or lamb, cut about one-fourth of an 
inch thick, into pieces of the same shape 
and size ; sprinkle them with salt, pepper 
and a few drops, each, of tomato catsup. 
Have ready some well-seasoned, hot, 
mashed potatoes into which some beaten 
yolks of Qgg have been beaten (one or 
two yolks to a pint of potato.) Cover 
•each slice of meat with the potato and 
make the surface smooth with a knife. 
Dip in a beaten egg, diluted with three or 
four tablespoonfuls of milk and water. 



a broad spatula. 



five minutes, then with 
turn the rings and potatoes within and let 
cook about twenty-five minutes on the 
other side. Serve (without rings) with 
any dish of meat. 

Milk Bread 

Soften one cup of compressed yeast 
in one-fourth a cup of scalded-and-cooled 
milk ; add one cup of scalded-and-cooled 
milk, half a teaspoonful of salt, one table- 
spoonful of sugar, one tablespoonful of 
shortening and flour to make a dough. 
Knead the dough until smooth and 
elastic. Set aside to become doubled in 
bulk, then cut dov/n and shape to fit a 
brick-loaf bread pan. Bake one hour. 
The loaf should cease to rise and become 
crusted over by the time it has been in 
the oven fifteen minutes. 




POTATOES ANNA 



cover with sifted bread crumbs and fry 
in deep fat. 

Potatoes Anna 

Pare long slender potatoes and cut into 
thin slices. Brush over a baking sheet 
very thoroughly with good dripping or 
butter, on this set as many English mufiin 
rings as persons to be served ; fill the 
rings with slices of potato, adding season- 
ings and melted butter to each layer of 
slices ; finish with a teaspoonful of butter 
on the top of the potatoes in each ring. 
Let cook in a hot oven about twenty- 



French Bread 



Soften a cake of compressed yeast in 
one-fourth a cup of lukewarm water ; stir 
in sifted flour to make a dough, and 
knead the little bit of dough into a smooth 
ball. Make a deep cut across the dough 
in two directions. In a mixing bowd 
have one cup of water, boiled and cooled 
to a lukewarm temperature ; in this set 
the little ball of dough, cover and let 
stand until the dough becomes very light 
and floats on the water ; add half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and stir in flour to make 



140 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



a dough. Knead the dough until smooth 
and elastic, then set aside, close-covered, 
to become light. Shape into a long nar- 
row loaf ; make a depression through the 
center of the loaf — lengthwise. When 
agai'.! light make three or four cuts across 
the loat. Bake about forty-five minutes. 
Brush over with beaten white of egg 
and return to the oven to glaze. 

Rye-Meal Biscuits 

h-tir a cake of compressed yeast into 
one-fouitli a cup of scalded-and-cooled 
milk; ad'l (^ne cup of scalded-and-cooled 
milk and oul' and a half cups of sifted 
bread flour, an 1 mix to a sponge; beat 
thoroughly aud set aside to become light. 
Add a scant lourtli of a cup of melted 
butter, one-fourth a cup of molasses, half 
a teaspoonful of salt and one and one- 
fourth cups of silted rye-meal. Mix 
thoroughly, cutting the dough through 
and through, with a knife. The dough is 
too soft to knead. When light, with but- 
tered fingers, shape into sixteen balls and 
set them close together in a baking pan. 
When again light bake about twenty-five 
minutes ; brush over with white of tgg or 
beaten yolk mixed with milk, dredge with 
granulated sugar and return to the oven 
to set the glaze. 



milk; mix and add to one cup of milk, 
scalded and cooled to a lukewarm tem- 
perature. Stir in enough flour to make 
a batter; beat until smooth, then cover 
and set aside to become light. Add one 
whole tgg and a yolk or three yolks of 
eggs, one-fourth a cup of sugar, half a 
teaspoonful of salt and flour to make a 
dough that may be kneaded. Knead un- 
til smooth and elastic. Cover and set 
aside (out of drafts) to become doubled 
in bulk. Without cutting the dough 
down, divide into two pieces of same size. 
Set one of these upside down (crusty 
side down) on a board, pat and roll into 
a rectangular sheet less than half an inch 
thick; brush over with butter, sprinkle 
with sultana raisins and pecan nuts, 
broken in pieces. Use from a half to a 
full cup of fruit and nuts ; roll up like 
a jelly roll; Hft the roll to a baking pan 
and bring the ends together to form a 
ring; fasten the ends secure and in such 
a careful manner as will conceal the join- 
ing. With scissors cut through the ring 
from the edge nearly to the center, at 
each side, entirely round the ring ; cut 
a little on the slant and turn each division 
with the scissors or fingers, to show the 
layers of dough and fruit, etc. That is, 
cut down through the roll with the scis- 




SWEDISH TEA RING, READY TO BAKE 

Swedish Tea Ring sors and with them turn the cut side of 

the dough upwards. When again light 

Soften a cake of compressed yeast in brush the dough with beaten yolk of egg, 

one-fourth a cup of scalded-and-cooled mixed with milk, and dredge with sliced 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



141 



almonds. Bake about half an hour. The 
recipe makes two rings. 

Bismarck Rings 

Prepare a dough by the recipe given 
for Swedish Tea Ring. When the dough 



cake of compressed yeast, mixed in one- 
fourth a cup of lukewarm water, and be- 
tween three and four cups of sifted 
flour. ]\Iix all together thoroughly and 
knead to a smooth dough. The dough 
should be soft as can be handled. Let 





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is Hght, divide it into pieces weighing 
about five ounces each, (a generous half 
cup) shape these into balls and set aside, 
covered with a mixing bowl, to become 
light. Roll each ball into an oval sheet 
about one-fourth of an inch thick, and 
spread with almond-cream filling, then 
roll up like a jelly roll. Join the ends 
secure, to form a ring on the baking pan. 
When all are thus shaped and light, 
brush over with the yolk of an tgg 
mixed with two or three tablespoonfuls 
of milk. Slash the dough with a sharp 
knife, or a pair of scissors, in several 
places on the top of each roll. Bake about 
twenty-five minutes. 

Almond Cream Filling 

Beat one-fourth a cup of butter to a 
cream ; gradually beat in two ounces 
(one-fourth cup) of almond paste, then 
one-fourth a cup of sugar and one &gg 
or two yolks. 

Turkish Rolls 

W^ork one-fourth a cup of almond 
paste into one cup of boiled water, cooled 
to a lukewarm temperature; add one 
tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonf ul 
of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, one 



stand to double, about, in bulk ; shape into 
oval rolls ; when again light brush over 
with milk and bake in a hot oven. 

Cooked Salad Dressing 

Scald half a cup of milk in a double 
boiler. Mix two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of mustard, and 
half a teaspoonful of salt, with one- 
fourth a cup of cold milk, then stir into 
the hot milk; continue to stir until the 
mixture thickens, then cover and cook 
ten minutes. Beat one whole egg or two 
yolks ; add one tablespoonful of sugar 
and beat again, then stir into the hot mix- 
ture ; continue stirring until the egg is 
set, then remove from the fire and 
gradually beat in one-fourth a cup of 




BISMARK RINGS 



hot vinegar, and, last, two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter. 



142 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Plain Griddle Cakes 

Sift together two cups of pastry flour, 
half a teaspoonful of salt and two level 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Stir one 
level teaspoonful of soda into two cups 
of thick, sour milk and stir into the dry 
ingredients. Stir in three tablespoonfuls 
of melted butter. Bake, by the table- 
spoonful, on a well-oiled griddle. When 
the cakes are well filled with bubbles, 
they should be brown on one side and 
ready to turn. 

Lettuce-and-Roquefort Cheese 
Salad 

Dispose a carefully washed-and-dried 
head of lettuce in a salad bowl and 



lilli, half a teaspoonful of mustard, half 
a chili pepper chopped fine, three table- 
spoonfuls of butter and two tablespoon- 
fuls of mayonnaise dressing and pound 
until thoroughly mixed. Use as a filling 
between two thin slices of bread. 

Lettuce, Cream Cheese-and- 
Pimento Sandwiches 

Remove two pimentos from a can, 
rinse in cold water and wipe dry on a 
cloth. Chop the pimentos. Work half 
a pound of cream cheese with a wooden 
spoon, then mix the pimentos through 
it. W ith a doughnut cutter stamp out 
rings of bread from slices of stale (baked 
twenty-four hours) bread. Spread these 
with chili-sauce salad dressing and then 




LETTUCE AND ROQUEFORT CHEESE SALAD 



Sprinkle over about one-third a cup of 
roquefort cheese, cut (or broken with a 
silver fork) into tiny cubes. Rub a bowl 
with the cut side of a clove of garlic ; put 
in half a teaspoonful of salt and half a 
teaspoonful of paprika, then four table- 
spoonfuls of chili'sauce; mix thoroughly, 
then gradually beat in seven or eight 
tablespoonfuls of olive oil and pour over 
the lettuce and cheese. Serve at once. 

Epicurean Sandwiches 

Pound three boned anchovies in a 
wooden bowl, add three hard-cooked 
yolks of eggs, one tablespoonful of picca- 



with the cheese mixture. Set a leaf of 
lettuce between each two rounds, to show 
through the hole in the center of the 
bread. Serve at once. 

Praline Ice Cream 

The ingredients are one quart of rich 
milk, three and one-half ounces of sweet 
almonds, five bitter almonds, yolks of 
six to eight eggs, a scant cup of granu- 
lated sugar and one tablespoonful of 
vanilla extract. Blanch the almonds, cut 
them in slices and let brown in a mod- 
erate oven, turning, and dredging them 
occasionally with a little sugar. When 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



143 



the slices of almond are browned slight- 
ly and coated with the sugar, pound 
them in a mortar or wooden bowl. Sift 
them and pound again whatever does not 
pass the sieve ; repeat until all are sifted. 
Set the milk and the pounded almonds 
over the fire in a double boiler. Beat 
the yolks of eggs ; add the sugar and 
beat again. After the almonds have 
cooked twenty minutes in the milk, add 
a little of the hot milk to the eggs and 
sugar, mix thoroughly and stir into the 
rest of the hot milk; stir and cook till 
the mixture thickens slightly, remove 
from the lire and stir occasionally until 
cold. Add the vanilla and freeze. 

Baked Indian Pudding 

Scald two cups of milk in a double 
boiler; mix four level tablespoonfuls of 
Indian meal with one cup of cold water 
and stir into the hot milk ; continue 
stirring until it thickens, then add one- 
half a cup, each, of sugar and molasses, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful 
of cinnamon, half a teaspoonful of gin- 
ger and two beaten eggs. Turn the mix- 
ture into a buttered pudding dish and 
let bake half an hour, then pour on half 
a cup of cold milk. Do not stir in the 
milk. Let bake two hours. Serve hot 
with cream or with ice cream. The oven 
must be of very moderate heat. 

Frothy Sauce 



Beat half a cup of butter to a cream , 
gradually beat in one cup of sugar ; add 
the white of one egg, beaten dry, and 
half a cup of hot fruit juice, pineapple 
or grape, and a tablespoonful of lemon 




LETTUCE, CREAM CHEESE AND PIMENTO 
SANDWICHES 

juice. Half a cup of boiling water and 
a teaspoonful of vanilla extract may re- 
place the fruit juice. 

Pineapple Tarts, Fairfax 

From remnants of pufif or flaky pastry 
cut rounds about four inches in diam- 
eter. On the edge of the rounds pipe a 
narrow rim of chou-paste. Paste made 
of half a cup of boiling water, one-fourth 
a cup of butter, half a cup of flour and 
one Qgg with the yolk of another will 
suffice for six or seven tarts. Prick the 
paste with a fork, that it may not puft 
too much in baking. When ready to 
serve, fill the open centers with pineapple, 
cut in bits, cover wdth a cup of cream and 
one-fourth a cup of sugar, beaten firm 
and mixed wnth sliced pecan nut meats 
and maraschino cherries. Have the 




PINEAPPLE TARTS, FAIRFAX 



144 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



syrup from the pineapple cooked with 
sugar till quite thick and slightly yellow ; 
pour this over the cream mixture and 
finish with a piece of cherry. 




SOUR CREAM PIE 

Macaroon Custard en Surprise 

Scald three cups of milk over boiling 
water; add to the milk one dozen maca- 
roons, crumbled fine. Beat the yolks of 
five eggs; add two-thirds a cup of sugar 
and beat again, then cook in the hot milk 
until the mixture thickens slightly. 
When cold flavor with a teaspoonful of 
vanilla extract. Place in the bottom of 
each of eight or nine glass serving dishes 
two maraschino cherries, then fill to two- 
thirds their height with the cold custard. 
Set on the top of each glass a spoonful 
of whipped cream, sweetened and fla- 
vored slightly before whipping. Serve 
very cold. 



Sour Cream Pie 

Beat one tgg and two yolks of eggs 
light; beat in one cup of sugar, one cup 
of sour cream, half a cup of seeded rais- 
ins or currants, a level teaspoonful of 
flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful of lemon 
extract and one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
ground cinnamon and cloves. Bake in a 
pie plate lined with pastry until about 
firm in the center. Beat the whites of 
two eggs dry, then gradually beat in two 
rounding tablespoonfuls of granulated 
sugar and spread over the pie. Return 
the pie to the oven to cook the meringue 
Let cook about eight minutes in a slow 
oven, then increase the heat to brown 
the meringue slightly. 

Drop Cookies 

Cream half a cup of butter, beat in- 
to this one cup of sugar, three-fourths 
a cup of currants, half a cup of molasses, 
one Qgg, well beaten, and, alternately, 
half a cup of sweet milk and three cups 
of flour sifted with half a teaspoonful, 
each, of soda and cloves and one tea- 
spoonful of cinnamon. Drop from a 
spoon on a buttered tin. Bake in a 
moderate oven. 



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MACAROON CUSTARD EN SURPRISE 



Economical Menus for a Week in October 

" There are large discrepancies between nutritive value and market cost and correspond- 
ingly ample opportunity for the exercise of true economy in the choice of food mate- 
rials " — Sherman. 



Breakfast 

Graham Biscuits 

Baked Apples or Apple Sauce 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Breast of Lamb, Steamed 

Pickled Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes Boiled Turnips 

Apple Pie Cream Cheese 

Coffee 

Supper 

Milk Toast 

Smoked Halibut 

Ginger Bread Tea 



. Breakfast 

Hamburg Steak 
Stewed Potatoes 
Plain Griddle Cakes 
Coffee 

Dinner 

Fresh Fish Chowder or 

Corn Chowder 

New Pickles 

Peach Shortcake Coffee 

Supper 

Corn or Kornlet Custard 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Apple Sauce Tea 



Breakfast 

Lamb-and-Potato Hash 

Corn Meal Muffins 

Dry Toast Coffee 

Dinner 

Lamb-and-Tomato Soup 

Cheese Souffle 

Lettuce Salad, Chili Sauce Dressing 

Parker House Rolls 

Squash Pie Coffee 

Supper 

Hot Shelled Beans 

Bread and Butter 

Cookies 

Baked Sw^eet Apples 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cold Boiled Ham 

Creamed Potatoes 

Doughnuts Coffee 

Dinner 

Breast of Veal, Stuffed, Poeled, 

Brown Sauce 

Scalloped Tomatoes 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style 

Rice Pudding 

Half Cups of Coff'ee 

Supper 

Potato Salad 

Eggs Scrambled with Chopped Ham 

Cookies Tea 



Breakfast 

Broiled Bacon, Fried Eggs 

Fried Potatoes 

Dry Toast Coffee 

Dinner 

Fresh Codfish Steaks Baked in Paper Bag 

Baked Potatoes Cold Slaw 

Baked Pears 

Cookies Tea 

Supper 

Fish-and-Potato Hash 

Pickled Beets 

Stewed Crab Apples 

Bread and Butter 

Cottage Cheese Tea 



Breakfast 

Melons 

Broiled Tripe, Maitre d' Hotel Butter 

Small Potatoes, Baked 

Fried Mush, Molasses 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Hashed Veal on Toast 

Poached Eggs above 

White Hashed Potatoes 

Squash 

Queen of Puddings 

(Jelly and Meringue) 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Swedish Tea Roll 
Cocoa 



>^ ' Breakfast 

Q Cereal, Thin C 



< 

CD 



Dinner 

Scalloped Cabbage 



Supper 

Boston Baked Beans, Tomato Catsup 



Eggs in the Shell Cannelon of Beef, Baked in Paper Bag Boston Brown Bread 
Turkish Rolls Potatoes Anna Lettuce, French Dressing 

Apple Sauce Blackberry Roly Poly Squash Pie 

Coffee Cocoa Coffee Tea 

145 



Less Economical Menus for a Week in October 

*■' To insure health cultivate a free use of milk, eggs, vegetables and such cereal prod- 
ucts and breadstuff s as contain at least a part of the suter layers as well as the inner portion 
of the grains." 



Breakfast 

Swedish Tea Ring 
Sliced Peaches Coffee 

Dinner 

Boned Leg of Lamb, Stuffed, 

Roasted Paper-Bag Style 

Potatoes Anna Squash 

Celery-and-Tomato Salad 

Cheese 

Custard Soujffle, Sabayon Sauce 

Coffee 

Supper 

Deviled Crabs au Gratin 

Buttered Toast Pickled Beets 

Blushing Apples, Orange Sauce 



Breakfast 

Hashed Fowl on Toast 

Poached Eggs above 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Doughnuts Coffee 

Dinner 

Cream of Cucumber Soup 

Turbans of Halibut a la Comtesse 

(Paper-Bag Fashion) 

Cold Cauliflower, French Dressing 

Lemon Sherbet 

Sponge Cake Coffee 

Supner 

Bread and Butter 

Mexican Rabbit 

Waffles, Caramel Syrup Tea 



Breakfast 

Cold Boiled Ham Fried Apples 

Creamed Potatoes 

Plain Griddle Cakes, Caramel Syrup 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Kornlet Soup 

Shepherd's Pie (cold lamb) 

Spinach with "Boiled" Eggs 

Gelatine Blanc Mange, with Fruit 

Coffee 

Supper 

Oyster Stew, Crackers 

New Pickles 

Canned Pineapple 



Breakfast 

Cereal 

Calf's Liver, Fried Bacon 

Rolls Hashed Potatoes 

Pop Overs 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Broiled Sirloin Steak 

Baked Sweet Potatoes 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Sour Cream Pie 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Peach or Blackberry Shortcake 
Tea Cocoa 



Breakfast. 

Spanish Omelet 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Poeled Fowl, Cranberry Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes 

Cauliflower au Gratin 

Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing 

Toasted Crackers Coffee 

Supper 

Late String Beans 
Ham Sandwiches, Hot 
Chocolate Nut Cake 
Tea 



Breakfast 

Salt Codfish Balls 

Philadelphia Relish 

Yeast Rolls Coffee 

Dinner 

Stuffed Halibut Steaks, Baked in Paper Bag ^ 

Potatoes a la Maitre d'Hotel ; jq 

Green Lima Beans, Cucumber Salad P 

Frozen Apricots (canned) 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Scrambled Eggs on Mexican Rabbit 

Bread and Butter 

Sliced Peaches 

Tea 



Breakfast Dinner Supper 

Creamed Halibut au Gratin Baked Veal Cutlet (Breaded) Stuffed Tomatoes, Baked 
Mashed Potato Cakes Potatoes Scalloped with Green Peppers Baking Powder Biscuit 
Buttered Toast Succotash Cabbage Salad Cake Baked Pears 

Coffee Grapes Macaroon Custard en Surprise Tea 

Half Cups of Coffee Lemon Queen Cakes 

146 



'mji\T^a^w^^ 



Fad or Reform 

By Janet M. Hill 



AT the present time much atten- 
tion is being given to cooking 
in paper bags. Whether this 
method of cooking is to survive, and the 
special paper bags designed for such 
cookery are to become an integral part 
of the kitchen furnishings of all house- 
keepers, or, whether this form of cook- 
ery is to be but the fad of an hour, is 
yet to be seen. Just now most house- 
keepers are compelled to hold on to the 
dripping pan and the frying pan through 
inability to secure the proper kind of 
bags. For not every sort of paper is 
suited to this purpose. The paper of 
which the bag is made must be of such 
composition that it will not absorb liquid, 
nor must it in any wise affect the taste 
of the food cooked within. 

The idea of wrapping food in paper 
for cooking is not a new one. Paper 
surrounded with mud or paste has 
served as the cooking utensil for many 
a camper, while recipes for broiling 
chops and birds carefully enclosed in 
paper are given in most books on gen- 
eral cookery. By these means the pos- 
sibilities of such cookery have become 
well known. But to wrap chops in 
paper in such a manner as to exclude 
the air and retain the juices has been 
a somewhat tedious process, not to be 
undertaken every day; nor has paper 
been at hand that did not leave its taste 
on the cooked article. But with the 
paper bag devised by M. Soyer, a 
French chef, all these difficulties seem 
to have been overcome. We have tried 
the bags and are constrained to say 



that, with them and with an oven for 
cooking, this style of preparing food has 
merits that cannot be ignored or gain- 
said. 

Cooking in a covered casserole, 
with or without broth, has improved 
and given variety to the dietary of many 
a family ; it has also lessened the 
drudgery of dish-washing. Paper-bag 
cookery goes one step further, it not 
only tends to conserve the odor and 
flavor of the food, but it leaves, in the 
place of a dish easy to cleanse, no dish 
at all to make clean. Yet there is, no 
doubt, a limit to which even paper-bag 
cookery may be put. The high flavor 
developed by broiling over coals or of 
roasting in a hot oven or before a fire, 
is not easily forgotten; and such cook- 
ery will not be given up where food 
adapted to such treatment is under con- 
sideration. But there are many articles 
to be cooked that call for different 
treatment. Upon sending to the table 
breaded veal cutlets, cooked within the 
paper bag to a golden brown and withal 
juicy and tender enough to be cut with 
a spoon, we were led to exclaim paper- 
bag cookery is not a passing bit of sen- 
sationalism, but is true reform. And yet 
the paper- -bag will not prove a panacea 
for all the trials in cooking; like the 
fireless cooker it will be found to have 
its limitations. 

We are often asked by women serving 
as stewards in school ''commons" and 
similar boarding houses : ''How may I 
get help on the subject of food values, 



14T 



148 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



to the end that the dietary of the pupils 
in my charge may be improved/' and 
''will you suggest a book of menus or 
something of hke character that will be 
of service to me." In most instances the 
question is in line with the idea involved 
in "getting rich quick." There is no 
smooth and easy road to knowledge, if 
there be, perchance, to wealth. Yet this 
should not deter one from making a be- 
ginning in the" matter, and the sooner 
this is done the better. That the ques- 
tion be asked at all is a hopeful sign 
for the future. 

We might say to these women, why 
not take a course in a school where 
domestic science is taught? While this 
is the proper thing for the right kind 
of a young woman to do, even if means 
must be loaned for the purpose, most 
women who ask these questions have 
but a comparatively few more years of 
active life before them and cannot af- 
ford to devote three or more years to 
special training. And yet this training 
combined with their knowledge of prac- 
tical affairs would make them of vastly 
more worth than the inexpert graduates 
of domestic science schools. School 
courses in dietetics are now offered in 
some institutions, notably in summer 
sessions ; correspondence courses are al- 
so given that are helpful along these 
lines. But let no inquirer after know- 
ledge of this kind expect to find in a 



single book, magazine or course of lec- 
tures all that is needful to know to plan 
meals acceptably and scientifically. Such 
an one must set to work in earnest, 
gathering a little here and a little there, 
as opportunity offers. The price of a 
book is, perhaps, none too much to pay 
for a single idea that can be put into 
daily practice. Even if the idea be not 
forthcoming, yet if one's enthusiasm be 
aroused and an incentive given to great- 
er effort by a perusal of the book, who 
shall say that the money expended has 
been wasted. Let no one make the mis- 
take of confining herself to one book; 
by so doing one cannot get a broad view 
of any subject. To know anything of 
a subject one must read widely and 
learn to make comparisons. Having 
once learned the first principles of 
dietetics, study the relations existing be- 
tween food-stuffs and the bodily func- 
tions ; consider the processes of diges- 
tion and assimilation ; compare the 
methods of cooking as related to econo- 
my, hygiene and individual preference. 
At the same time read every book and 
paper that comes in your way, with an 
eye that sees everything having any 
bearing on your particular subject; 
and that books of the right kind may 
come your way, take the time to be- 
come acquainted with the contents of 
such works as claim to treat of your 
subject. 



The Typhoid Fly 



Baby bye, 

Here's a fly, 

Let us swat him, vou and I. 

While we talk. 

See him walk, 

And for microbes never balk. 

Do you think, with six such feet, 

You and I would walk on meat? 

There he goes ! 

Shut the doors. 

He may cause you many woes 

Take a brick. — 



^^'ill this fiy 

Tell me why 

He will walk on bread and pie? 

Sure he knows 

That his toes 

Are all covered with typhos. 

I should think, if I were he, 

I'd not fall in milk and tea. 

Kill him quick ! 
Or he'll make you very sick. 
Flies you strictly should avoid, 
If j-ou would not have tA'phoid. 

s. A. s. 



Lessons in Elementary Cooking 

By Mary Chandler Jones 

Teacher of Cookery in the Public Schools of Brookline, Mass. 

Lesson XIII 

Fruit 



LATE summer and autumn are 
naturally the season when fruit 
is most abundant, and therefore 
most interesting to the pupil ; so that it 
is well, at this time, to consider the gen- 
eral use and preparation of fruit and 
fruit cookery. Many pupils have access 
to much fruit, which may profitably be 
used fresh in greater quantity than at 
present; or may be preserved in some 
way for winter use. The harvest of wild 
berries, which too often falls ungathered, 
would furnish many an attractive and 
wholesome dessert, beside giving pleasant 
exercise in the fresh air to the harvester. 
A "berry picnic," among the pines,, is by 
no means the least merry and rewarding 
of the summer expeditions. No cultivat- 
ed berries can surpass in flavor our 
delicious wild ones, and if they be a little 
hard to find, is not the joy of discovery 
added to the pleasure of possession? In 
these days, when we hear so much about 
"conservation," here is an application 
which may appeal even to a child. 

The food value of fruit is quite large- 
ly found in its stimulating effect upon 
the appetite, in the variety which it 
furnishes for commonplace and simple 
meals and in the organic acids which it 
provides. Some fruits contain a portion 
of starch when unripe but, under the 
"cooking" action of the sun, this starch 
is chiefly changed into sugars. In the 
banana we find a "food-fruit" furnishing 
some starch. The banana may be tested 
with iodine. Let the pupils make a list 
of fruits, then discuss with them the 
manner of growth of different kinds. 
What does all fruit contain as the plant's 
provision for its own future? From 
what countries are some of our fruits 



brought? What are "dried fruits?" Of 
what is fruit juice mainly composed? 
From the taste, what other food principle 
is found in great quantity in many 
fruits ? 

A few general rules may be given 
which apply to the preparation of almost 
all fruits. Wild berries, gathered with 
clean hands m the midst of fresh green- 
ery and far from dusty roads, need no 
washing. It is well, however, to form the 
habit from childhood, of "picking clean." 
Picking poor or green berries, leaves and 
insects, and then looking them over is a 
great waste of time, patience and fruit. 
It has recently been found, by experi- 
ment, that at each washing fruit becomes 
cleaner, in a rapidly increasing propor- 
tion. That is. if it is seven-eights clean 
at the first washing, it will be one-half 
clean in two washings, nine-tenths clean 
in three and practically entirely so in the 
fourth water. This shows that it really 
is of value to change the water several 
times. Strawberries may be washed in 
very hot water and then cooled, without 
injury to shape or color. This does not 
sterilize them, but may make them clean- 
er than ordinary washing can do. 

General Rules for Preparing Fruit 

I. Choose sound, perfect fruit, in 
season. Do not be too eager to buy large 
fruit. It is seldom so good in flavor as 
that of a normal size. 

II. Wash or wipe the fruit carefully, 
according to its kind. Remove stems. 

III. Serve cold, in a tasteful arrange- 
ment of leaves, if the fruit be large and 
the proper leaves may be found. Grape 
leaves or peach leaves make an attractive 
garnish, usually seen in fruit plates in 
Italy, Switzerland and France. 



149 



150 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



IV. Be careful that the fruit is ripe, 
but not over-ripe. 

(In Italy over-ripe fruit is considered 
more unwholesome than when it is 
slightly unripe.) 

In the preparation of dried fruits many 
of the above rules should be carefully 
followed and, in addition, the fruit must 
be soaked to restore to it the original 
plumpness and juiciness which have been 
lost in the process of drying. Let the 
pupils compare a fresh plum with a 
prune; a piece of dried peach or apricot 
with the fresh fruit. Compare the food 
value of the fresh and dried specimens. 
What are the differences and why? 

Water is usually necessary as a medium 
for cooking fruit, even when the fruit 
is fresh. Sometimes very little water is 
needed, as there is a large amount of 
juice in the fruit itself. The addition of 
sugar draws out the fruit juice and makes 
a sufficient quantity of liquid to prevent 
burning. It is wise to be careful in add- 
ing water, or the fruit will be insipid and 
the juice thin and flavorless. If too 
much water has been added, how might 
it be disposed of, without wasting flavor 
or sugar? 

Fruit cooking without the addition of 
water may be illustrated by the prepar- 
ation of stewed rhubarb. 

Stewed Rhubarb 

Wash the stalks of rhubarb and cut 
them into one-half inch pieces. Remove 
the stringy outside skin, but do not re- 
move all the pink skin, as that improves 
the color. Put the rhubarb into the upper 
part of a double boiler with about one- 
half as much sugar as you have rhubarb 
and cook, over boiling water, until it is 
tender and pink. Do not stir it. Cool 
and serve. Sweeten more if needed. 

(Let the pupils notice the part of the 
plant which we use in the case of rhu- 
barb. Why call it a "fruit"?) 

Cranberries are an interesting fruit in 
the fall and even a beginner has some- 
thing she may contribute to the the 
Thanksgiving table, if she has prepared 
either cranberry sauce or cranberry jelly. 



Let the pupils describe the growing and 
gathering of the cranberry. There are 
almost always some who have seen both 
processes, as well as some who are 
familiar with the delicious, tiny "moun- 
tain-cranberry," in its lofty home. 
Cranberry Sauce 

Wash and pick over the cranberries 
and be careful to remove all stems. 
Measure the berries and place them in a 
granite-ware saucepan with one-half as 
much sugar and one-fourth as much 
water as you have berries. Let them 
come to a boil and afterward boil ten 
minutes, covered, if possible and with 
only sufficient stirring to prevent boiling 
over. Strain, cool and serv^e. They may 
also be served without straining, if pre- 
ferred. 

Cranberry jelly may be made in the 
same way and strained through double 
cheese-cloth. It is better, however, to 
strain the juice before adding the sugar, 
then to boil the juice and add the sugar 
as in ordinary jelly-making. Any good 
cranberry sauce wil' usually form into a 
jelly on cooling. 

(Let the pupils explain why a granite- 
ware saucepan should be used and why 
fruit should be stirred with a wooden or 
silver spoon.) 

The preparation of dried fruits may be 
illustrated by the cooking of stewed 
prunes or apricots, which are very simil- 
arly prepared. Do not add too much 
sugar. Why is it impossible to give defi- 
nite directions for the amount of sugar? 
Stewed Prunes 

Wash the prunes with care and let 
them soak in fresh, clean water for sever- 
al hours. Cook them in this^ water until 
nearly tender, then add a little sugar. 
Cook again until the prunes have ab- 
sorbed the sugar and are entirely tender,' 
then cool and serve. A slice of lemon 
may be cooked with them, if desired. 

If sugar is cooked with the fruit from 
the beginning, it tends to make the fruit 
tough. Why cook prunes or apricots in 
the water in which they were soaked ? 

Apples are one of our most abundant 



LESSONS IN ELEMENTARY COOKING 



151 



fruits and are, perhaps on that account, 
scarcely appreciated. Baked, in earthen- 
ware or granite-ware dishes, with the 
cores removed, they are a dish fit for a 
king. They may be cooked similarly in 
a sauce-pan, where the process may be 
watched. 

Apples Cooked in Water 

6 apples, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of water. 

Wash and core the apples and remove 
the skin if desired. (The skin gives a 
pretty color, if it is red.) Cook the 
sugar and water together until they form 
a syrup, then place the apples in it and 



cook, without breaking, until they are 
tender. Remove the apples and boil the 
juice until it is thick and jelly-like. Pour 
it over and around the apples, where it 
will form a jelly. Cool and serve. 

This may be used with cereal, as a 
sauce or for a dessert. If housewives 
could only be persuaded to make a great- 
er use of fruit, both cooked and fresh, 
instead of elaborate pies and puddings ; 
and if the men of the household would 
learn to enjoy the simpler dessert, it 
would make very largely for simple liv- 
ing, for economy and for more whole- 
some food. 



Canning in Tin at Home 

By Ida Margaret Bailey 



WE live in the country, literally 
ten miles from a lemon. It 
is very different from a city 
flat where one can live from hand to 
mouth. Here a well-stocked cellar and 
pantry is a heavenly refuge, especially in 
winter when snow and storm maroon us 
indoors, often for weeks, or when un- 
expected company troops in hungry as 
hungry human beings can be after a 
day's drive or hunt. At such times there 
is no telephone and nearby caterer to call 
upon to rescue from larder deficiencies. 
We have to be prepared with the stores 
and munitions of daily life. 

When we started to rejuvenate this 
abandoned farm, five years ago, I had 
to learn both farming and housekeeping. 
As in the good old days of our grand- 
mothers I stored away apples, potatoes, 
onions, squash and pumpkins, dried 
herbs for turkey stuffing and sausage, 
shelled popcorn for long winter even- 
ings, peanuts for nut-butter and the chil- 
dren, peas and beans of various kinds, 
jellies, jams, pickles and preserves of 
every sort and size of growing thing in 
garden and orchard. 

I had much to learn in the art of pre- 
serving, and, as a rule, the results were 



satisfying, for I learned readily and with 
pleasure how to deal with all the perish- 
able beauties of the summer earth — all 
except the vegetables. Oh, the ability 
vegetables had to build fear and anxiety 
in me ! I never passed the store- 
room without turning an ear for that 
ominous singing sound of some impris- 
oned spirit calling to be set free. Beans, 
peas, corn, beets, okra, and even the gen- 
tle hearted tomato proved uncertain, re- 
bellious, and vexatious. 

Though the results of my vegetable 
canning were natural, they were also sad- 
dening, for time and material on a farm 
are too precious to throw away. So I 
resolved to abandon "the good old meth- 
ods." Having no one's personal experi- 
ence to guide me, I began to study 
advertisements and catalogues for some 
means to gain the great end — a well- 
stocked larder. And, at last, I found, in 
a farm journal, the advertisement of a 
home-canner and bought it. Now we 
are enjoying the vegetables as well as the 
fruit: of our labor. In half an hour, 
armed with my trusty can-opener, I can 
serve a princely feast, helped out by 
oysters from the creek, and eggs and 
milk and cream and butter. And, oh. 



152 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



what a difference in the bills ! When I 
first opened the crate of the canner, I 
felt cheated and wished my five dollars 
safe home again. I had expected some 
complicated machine, with wheels and 
cogs and those cute holes you see men 
pouring much oil in from polished cop- 
per oilers, — something in fact to tax my 
intellect and give off a busy whirr. It 
was simply a galvanized iron tank, fitted 
with an inside rack full of holes on the 
sides and slits on the bottom to allow 
free circulation of water in, around, 
about and above the twenty-four cans it 
was designed to hold. This rack had 
two handles,' which slipped over two 
hooks inside the outside tank, suspend- 
ing it a few inches from the bottom. I 
also received for my five dollars a sold- 
ering iron, a Httle stove for heating it, 
solder, soldering fluid, brush, tongs to 
lift out the cans, and, most important of 
all, the book of instructions. The elab- 
orate directions for dealing with every 
different fruit and vegetable I followed 
the first year with the blind faith of a 
Mohammedan in the printed word. Now 
I have discarded them, learning from ex- 
perience to make my own time table and 
prepare the material to be canned to my 
own liking and convenience. 

The tin cans, two and three pound 
packer cans, were not included. I bought 
these from the nearest canning factory, 
to lessen freight charges. I selected 
solder-hemmed caps at a trifling extra 
cost, which greatly aids in the work. 
And by the time these arrived my good 
man had had a long table, low and easy 
to get at from a chair, built under our 
oaks, and a small brick stove just fitted 
for the canner, and I was ready to com- 
pete with the largest cannery in the 
country. 

Blackberries came first in my adven- 
tures with the canner, happily, as they 
were simple to can. I merely washed 
them carefully, packed them cold in the 
small cans, adding a tablespoonful of 
sugar to the can, which I placed in the 
inner rack as filled. Next I dried each 



can carefully, as solder will not stick to 
dirt or moisture, placed the caps on, and 
swabbed the solder hem, with the solder- 
ing fluid on a brush. (I now make my 
own soldering fluid, or flux, out of sul- 
phuric acid and as many zinc chips as it 
will eat up.) 

A\'hen I took the next step of applying 
the soldering iron, my troubles began, 
and the only real work appeared. In 
spite of every effort and much fuming, 
I could not make the solder flow around 
the little caps as smooth and neatly as 
you see it on the cans at the store. The>; 
roughened up like ice in a floe, and 
sprung aleak, and took more time than 
all the rest of the process. And the 
family stood around and gave sympathy 
and suggestions, although on cross ex- 
amination not one of them had ever seen 
solder flow or even handled an iron. At 
last I placed the rack in the tank of 
furiously boiling water, slipping the 
loops over the hooks so that the water 
came within two inches of the top. In 
five minutes the juice started from the 
vent holes and out came the rack to be 
wiped off, brushed with acid, and closed 
with a drop of solder from the bar. The 
overflowing from the vent holes showed 
the air was expelled. When I replaced 
the rack in the tank. I let it down so that 
the cans were entirely covered by the 
boiling water. Immediately sone of the 
cans sent up little bubbles as signals of 
distress, and I knew that there were 
leaks. After fishing these cans out and 
trying to repair the leaks, I set them 
back and, in five minutes more, the ber- 
ries were done and set out to cool on 
the ground with the ends bulging. In 
cooling they contracted to normal flat- 
ness, and they were all ready for win- 
ter, excepting, as I found later, those 
which had leaked. 

The first step described in boiling with 
the tops above the water, is called ex- 
hausting. This should be done with all 
vegetables and most all fruits, in order 
to exhaust all air thoroughly, to insure 
their keeoine. Though I have success- 



CANNING IN TIN AT HOME 



153 



fully canned berries, apples and tomatoes 
by soldering the vent hole when I put 
the cap on, without first exhausting the 
air according to some directions, still, in 
theory and to be on the safe side, it may 
be better to drive out any air lurking in 
the cans. I do not run any risks, but 
invariably exhaust all varieties of fruit 
and vegetables. 

The second step, that of cooking, is 
called "Processing," and by it, the fruit 
is rendered soft and edible. Besides, you 
may be sure that all germs and spores 
are killed by the boiling heat. The time 
of exhausting varies for different kinds 
of material put up, ranging from five 
minutes to five hours. 

I struggled along with the rough and 
unkempt caps, which I seemed ever un- 
able to solder down in the workmanlike 
manner that I wanted them to show. 
This ragged and rough appearance of my 
good garden truck was a thorn in the 
flesh, until one day a friend happened 
along and put me right. And it was 
such a little thing that the directions, as 
they often do, omitted to tell about. It 
seems that soldering irons must have the 
tip silvered with a coating of solder or 
the prepared covers will not run smooth. 
You file the end of your iron on three 
sides and anoint it with the acid and 
take a rub on the bar of solder, and with 
this re-silvered tip the cans can be sil- 
vered like magic. 

After that it was not only easy but 
great fun to hold the cover cap tight, with 
a sharpened stick thrust through the vent 
hole, and run the silver tipped iron, 
heated to the right temperature, along 
the cap in an unbroken line and without 
a leak. The only cans I lost out of my 
first five hundred were those unevenly 
soldered, which had slow leaks not to be 
detected in the boiling water, or those I 
had tried to resolder, — not over a dozen 
in all. 

I now have a goodly supply of all 
kinds of fruit and every variety of vege- 
table for our winter wants ; and no 
emergency in winter ever appals me. 



The following table is one that serves 
me infallibly. You can get from it a 
general idea of the time it takes to put 
up various canned goods. Only, of 
course, old peas and stringy beans can- 
not be made as good as young, tender 
ones, even by long boiling. 



Should be Exhausted 




Processed 


Corn 


10 minutes 




6 hours 


Peas 


10 




4 " 


Lima Beans 


10 




3 " 


String Beans 


5 " 




3 " 


Okra 


5 


30 


minutes 


Beets 


5 




1 hour 


Pumpkin and Squash 


10 




5 hours 


Tomatoes 


5 


30 


minutes 


Apples 


5 " 


30 




Peaches 


5 " 


20 




Cherries 


5 


20 




Berries 


5 


15 




Plums 


5 


15 




Grapes 


5 ; " 


15 




Pears 


5 


30 





Tomatoes are far better done with this 
canner than by the methods that keep 
one over a hot stove for half a day. 
They process only thirty minutes, and 
retain their bright color and shape in a 
way that makes one revolt at the shape- 
less mass that results from the old way. 

Okra I had never been able to keep 
in glass jars, but in tins it is always sure 
and as good as fresh. Like beans, it 
must be blanched before packing in cans. 
This is done, after cutting into inch- 
pieces and discarding the stems, by 
placing in a muslin bag and hanging in 
boiling water for five minutes. This 
renders it a bright green and washes off 
all dirt and slime adhering to it. 

No preservatives are necessary. Salt 
and sugar, even, are not needed, though 
I usually add them to promote the flavor. 

If the soldering is faulty, and practice 
will perfect that, the cans bulge at the 
ends as a warning of the fermentation, 
and they should be thrown out lest they 
burst like a frozen water pipe and scatter 
their contents over your store room. The 
good cans will yield to a firm pressure 
of the fingers, leaving a slight dent, show- 
ing that there is a vacuum inside, caused 
by shrinkage of the fruit as it cooled, 



154 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



and anything will keep in a vacuum. 

Like any other cans of fruit your own 
home-made cans must be emptied of their 
contents at once upon opening, for all 
the prejudice against tinned garden pro- 
duce arises from either one of two facts. 
Either the user has been careless about 
emptying the can, and the acid, formed 
by the action of the air on the inside 
coatings of the can, results in distress, 
or the use of poorly sorted material has 
made the use of preservatives needful, 
and the work has not been done thor- 
oughly. 

I buy beautifully colored labels for 
my cans, and print my own name on 
them with indelible ink. My shelves, 
filled with these gay cans, look quite like 
a store, and so very workmanlike that 
my pride rises within me, though I can 
never look like a successful man in a 
canning business. But I don't care. 

Having so much surplus stuff on our 
fruit and truck farm, I usually can a 
great deal more than we can use, but 
I have looked up a market among my 
friends and acquaintances in town. 
This gives me a profit in money be- 
sides the intense satisfaction I take 



in my own store room. For instance, 
pears, which we could not sell in 
town at the height of the season for 
more than thirty cents a bushel, I put 
up slightly sweetened and sell for three 
dollars a dozen cans in the winter, — the 
cans costing about two cents apiece. The 
profit is large on a small scale, but de- 
creases when larger and larger quantities 
are put up, thus requiring hired, un- 
skilled, and careless labor, and fruit at 
any price. So, inversely, the saving is 
great when the housew^ife can procure 
cheap fruits and vegetables from the 
farms or markets near her home, or her 
own garden at the height of the season. 

If you want your own fruit or vege- 
tables, this home canning in tin will give 
them to you at less cost of time, and 
strength, and money than the old way 
of using glass. Then, too, it is great 
fun, and all the family can help, having 
a sort of a picnic out in one's own yard 
under the trees. But remember, keep 
the water boiling furiously, and have 
your soldering iron filed down to the 
bright copper on three sides and trimmed 
so that the caps can be fastened without 
leaks, and smooth! 



All Hallowe'en 

By Lalia Mitchell 



All Hallowe'en, and dark and green 

The nodding pine trees sigh. 
While pool and spring make bold to fling 
Back star for star in mirroring 

The over-sea of sky. 
A vagrant breeze, through bending trees 

Tells mystic tales and trite, 
Since all must know, for weal or woe, 

The witches fly tonight. 



All Hallowe'en, and safe between 

Gnarled boughs, a maiden trips, 
Love lights her heart, but fears upstart 
And dread of weird cabola art 

Has hushed her laughing lips. 
Shall Fate be kind, or will she find 

But added cause for fright. 
As mystic lore, she murmurs o'er 

When witches fly tonight. 



All Hallowe'en, and love were mean 

To flout a maiden's prayer, 
She bends to look in babbling brook 
That dances past their trysting nook, 

And lo, his face is there. 
And fair shall be, o'er mead and lea 

Their homeward path of light, 
'Neath stars that know, for weal not woe 

The witches fly tonight. 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 

paid for at reasonable rates. 



House Cleaning According to 
Dame Nature 

NATURE'S great cleansers are sun- 
shine, water, ice and wind. 

Nature does not mop up the earth 
with a damp cloth and soapy water 
and expect it to be clean. She sends 
floods of water, until the whole world 
is drenched. 

This destroys many germs and insects, 
and drives the remaining ones into holes 
in the ground, from which rain never per- 
mits them to come out in great numbers 
to infest the dwelling-places of man and 
beast. 

But when men build houses they 
furnish refuge for the most dangerous 
of these parasites. Fleas, bugs and 
roaches are some of the insect kingdom, 
which are protected by houses, and many 
vegetable diseases Hve only in damp, 
sheltered places. 

When nature has flooded the earth, 
she proceeds straightway to dry it off 
with sunshine. She almost kills her be- 
loved flowers and plants in her efforts 
to kill the diseased plants, which are the 
worst enemies of her plans. 

But here again the house opposes her. 
The walls and cracks and crevices of 
the house, its furniture and bedding, 
have had no flooding with water. They 
are a little unclean at the best. Enough 
dampness has entered from the outside 
to cause disease germs to grow. And 
here these tiny atoms live — too small to 
be seen, yet large enough to flourish in 
soil which to us is imperceptible. The 



dampness nourishes them, and the sun- 
shine cannot get in to dry out this 
moisture. 

In winter nature freezes everything 
she has caused to grow in spring and 
summer, and reduces both friendly and 
unfriendly growths to a torpid state. 
Seeds remain dormant, but under her 
methods of cleaning the unfriendly 
growths will not make sufficient headway 
during the following season to become 
a menace. 

But her plan is again thwarted in the 
home. The warmed house preserves 
the lives of many germs and insects, 
which otherwise could not multiply in 
dangerous numbers. Those people are 
most liable to disorder who live much in- 
doors, where these germs and insects are 
domiciled. 

Nature with her winds blows away all 
the impurities that have not been 
destroyed by water, ice and sunshine, but 
man closes the house against fresh air 
and wind, and so fosters his worst 
enemies. 

If we could co-operate with nature, 
instead of opposing her efforts, we might 
in time drive out all diseases. 

The time will come, no doubt, when 
the style of house building will be en- 
tirely changed. Roofs will be remov- 
able, walls will be reversible, interiors 
will be waterproof, and furniture in- 
destructible. 

But until that day comes we may help 
nature in a campaign for health by wash- 
ing our walls, floors and ceilings, at least 
once a year, bv reiiewinsf mattresses. 



155 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



cleaning and drying blankets and bed- 
ding, and so thoroughly sunning and air- 
ing the entire house and its contents, on 
pleasant days, that dangerous germs will 
not linger long, if they once gain ad- 
mittance. S.A.S. 

sK * * 

Books in the Home 

ASIDE from the direct influence of 
the father and mother, books are 
undoubtedly the most important t actor 
in giving character to the home, in 
molding the child's thought and de- 
termining his habits and attitude toward 
life. This is true, of course, only in 
those homes where the value of books is 
recognized and reading is provided for. 

My mother was a busy woman, oc- 
cupied with the cares of farm life and 
the rearing of a large family, so that she 
had little leisure for recreation or self- 
culture. I have often heard her say that 
during those strenuous years she kept 
her mind alert and her interest alive in 
the world at large, because my father 
read aloud to her every evening. He 
rarely read to himself, but shared what- 
ever he found of interest in newspaper 
or magazine. 

This gave a certain literary atmos- 
phere to the home and the first question 
to be asked father, when he returned 
from the city, was not whether he had 
brought us children some candy, but 
"Was there any mail?" The letters from 
relatives or friends were read aloud and 
enjoyed by all, and the children waited 
eagerly for their turn at looking over 
the pictures in the magazines. A book 
was the finest present we could imagine, 
at Christmas time or on a birthday, and 
the shelf in the sitting-room gradually 
grew into a book-case that, in time, 
stretched across one side of the room. 

Most children love to read, but they 
are too apt to curl up in a chair by them- 
selves or take the story to bed with them. 
By reading together, the best in the book 
was brought to our attention and we 
were taught to be sociable, with our 



favorite authors,' to make friends of 
them and to share little bits aloud when 
we found something that would please 
father or mother. The dictionary was 
not a neglected book, and the habit of 
referring to it was a valuable one as we 
found when we entered school. 

Later in life we were ready to turn 
to books for recreation and for inspira- 
tion as one of the strong influences in 
character-building. One of the boys be- 
came a rancher and, for twelve years be- 
fore he married, lived in the w^ilds in a 
little cabin by himself. Yet all this time 
he took a paper and magazine and sent 
for an occasional book by mail, though 
the Post Office was thirty miles distant. 
In this way he kept in touch with his 
old life and somewhat aloof from the 
coarser influences of the rough country 
where his work took him. 

It is a sure, strong influence — this love 
of good reading; and to this day, when 
I go home for a visit or when we have 
a family reunion, one of the first re- 
quests after the greetings are over is, 
"read something to us," or "now grand- 
ma will read us a story." 

Since the Rural Free Delivery now 
comes to the country home, the facilities 
for reading and letter-writing are much 
greater than twenty years ago, yet the 
homes where these habits are cultivated 
are fewer than when I was a child. 
There are greater distractions, and at- 
tractions, it is true, but one reason that 
reading together is so neglected, is be- 
cause parents do not recognize the value 
of this custom in the home and the op- 
portunity it presents for permanent in- 
fluence. 

In the home where there is no piano, 
and music is lacking, reading aloud will 
often serve one of its purposes — that of 
uniting the family in enjoyment and in 
sympathy with the best thought of the 
day. 

Changing Pictures 

Do you ever change your pictures ? To 
get the greatest inspiration from them 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



157 



you should shift them from one wall to 
another, so that they will arrest the at- 
. tention anew. As ones taste grows the 
cheaper cromos should be replaced for 
Copley prints, photographs and real 
paintings. A gift from an artist friend 
put all my other pictures, to shame and 
made me realize that I had developed 
and that my w^alls did not reflect my 
real feeling for the beautiful. I rear- 
ranged all the pictures and framed some 
really good things that had been given 
me by friends returning from abroad, 
but which I had lain carefully away un- 
til I could afford to frame them. Some 
of these I found could be put into frames 
which adorned very inferior material. 

The pictures of every home should be 
gone over once a year as thoroughly as 
the bedding or the personal wardrobe. 
Call in an artistic friend and ask her 
to rehang all your pictures and you will 
be surprised to find what an inspiration 
the old faces and familiar landscapes will 
be to you when they salute you from an 
unexpected point of view. Those which 
you have really outgrown, but have not 
had the courage to discard, your friend 
will send to a Mission or a home where 
they will serve for a time as they did 
in your home. Pictures are a constant 
inspiration and should be given some 
thoughtful attention, if they are to serve 
their greatest usefulness. F. h. 

* ^ ^ 

Fatal Spirit of Rivalry 

WHY is it that when people belong 
to a club that meets at the mem- 
bers' houses, they are apt to cause ill- 
feeling — even to bring the whole thing 
to an untimely end — by trying to outdo 
each other in the matter of food? I 
have known three such cases lately and 
it seems such a pity. 

Early last winter my sixteen-year-old 
niece was asked to join a skating club 
of boys and girls. They were to go 
skating every Saturday evening, on the 
ice if possible, if not, at the rink, and 
then go to somebody's house for some- 



thing to eat. It was stipulated that these 
refreshments should be extremely simple, 
but no more definite limit was imposed. 
For a time all went well. The young 
people were treated to cocoa and sand- 
wiches, or to oyster stew and crackers, 
and seemed to enjoy themselves thor- 
oughly. Then came a night when the 
hostess set before them chicken salad, 
ice cream, cake and coffee. "Regular 
party food," one girl said scornfully. 
The next day the rest of the girls 
remonstrated with the hostess of the 
night before for breaking through the 
rule of simplicity which the others had 
kept so literally. She replied somewhat 
sharply that she considered her spread 
simple enough, and, anyway, she didn't 
see why she couldn't have what she 
chose in her own house. Several of her 
friends took her side, and cordial rela- 
tions have not been resumed among that 
group of girls. 

Grown-ups are just as bad, however. 
About a year ago five young matrons 
agreed to meet every two weeks to have 
lunch and sew afterward. As they were 
all in moderate circumstances and service 
was a serious problem, it was decided 
that the lunch should consist of two 
courses, a substantial one and a dessert. 
The first meeting was at my house and 
I gave them cold meat, vegetable salad, 
hot rolls and coffee, followed by fruit 
and cake. The next two or three times 
the menus were on the same scale. Then 
the hostess served grapefruit before 
her solid course. When we found fault 
with it, she said she didn't suppose a 
little thing like grapefruit would count. 
The charm was broken. A spirit of 
rivalry had crept in. The next innova- 
tion was coffee served in the parlor. 
Then gradually it became customary to 
have tea with sandwiches and cake just 
before we went home in the afternoon. 
Thus the club became a burden to the 
hostess. Its final knell was rung when 
a member tried to see how elaborate a 
meal she could serve and yet keep with- 
in the letter of the law. We began with 



158 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



caviare sandwiches in the sitting-room. 
The luncheon table was studded with 
fancy dishes containing nuts, olives, 
chocolates, bonbons and fancy figs. The 
first course consisted of broiled chicken, 
asparagus, rice croquettes and cucumber 
mayonnaise. This was followed by ice 
cream in shapes and fancy cakes from 
the caterers. Soon after two members 
resigned, saying that they could not keep 
up such a pace, and so our little club 
passed out of existence. I was sorry, 
as it was a centre for the exchange of 
patterns and recipes, and for the dis- 
cussion of minor household economies. 
It had always been helpful as well as 
enjoyable. 

It may be a comfort to some of us 
to know that women are not the only 
offenders in this respect. A group of 
men, graduates of the same college, had 
been in the habit of meeting at each 
others' houses once a month for what 
they called a "beernight." They were 



all young professional men without much 
money, and the eatables at their meet- 
ings were invariably unassuming. A 
rarebit or hot Frankfurters or crackers 
and cheese with beer made up the usual 
menu. There came to town an alumnus 
of the same college. He was older and 
richer than the rest, but as he had be- 
longed to the same "frat" as two mem- 
bers of this coterie, he was asked to 
join it. He went to several meetings 
and knew perfectly what the standard 
was. Then he asked the men to his 
house and gave them a supper, begin- 
ning with raw oysters, continuing with 
squab and ending up with rum punch 
and expensive cigars. That was more 
than six months ago, and the club has 
not met since. Of course there is still 
a possibility that the "beernights" may 
be revived sometime in the future, but 
it looks very much as if another pleasant 
club had perished on account of over- 
elaborate eatables. w. b. w. 



Library List 

By Laura R. Talbot 



THE same old thing, a book game." 
you say. Yes, but this was dif- 
ferent as they not only guessed 
the titles of the books, but the author's 
name too, and this list also had a Sup- 
plement. Two young ladies were 
hostesses ; one was attired in Laven- 
dar and Old Lace, and the other had A 
Bow of Orange Ribbon in her hair. 
Little Lord Fauntleroy attended the door. 
A fish dinner was served, for you know 
''fish is good for the brain." The door to 
the dining room represented a book 
cover — • 

He That Eateth Bread With Me 

By 

H. A. Mitchell Keays. 

The illustrated cards were scattered 
throughout three rooms; after guessing 



these, they went to the nearby home of 
the other hostess where tableaux and 
charades furnished the Supplement. 
At the close of the evening, punch was 
served from The Little Brown Jug Ai 
Kildare. 

On the Cards 

1. Picture of a woman. 

2. Picture of bridge — load of hay at 

one end, auto at other end. 

3. 6 P. M. Dec 30, 1889—6 A. M. Dec. 

31, 1889. 

4. "Sat on her seven hills and from 

her throne of beauty ruled the 
world." 

5. Picture of a man killing a deer. 

6. Picture of Carnegie. 

7. The marriage of Consuelo Vander- 

bilt and Duke of Marlborough. 

8. Picture of a man on a desert isle. 

9. Advertisement (without the words) 



A LIBRARY LIST 



159 



10. 
11. 

12. 

13. 
14. 
15. 
16. 
17. 

18. 
19. 

20. 



1. 
2. 
3. 



of bittersweets. 
Picture of maid waiting on table. 
Americans, Germans, French, 

Chinese, Indians. 
Picture of interior of Buckingham 

Palace. 
Noon, March 16th. 
Picture of a forlorn looking tramp. 
The word Arithmetic in red letters. 
A very small figure 2. 
Picture of man smoking — girls 

faces seen in the smoke. 
A poster done in black and white. 
Picture of rows of hollyhocks in 

bloom. 
Picture of window with open shut- 
ters. 

Answers 
She — H. Rider Haggard. 
The Right of Way — Gilbert Parker. 
A Knight (night) of the Nineteenth 

Century — E. P. Roe. 

4. The Eternal City (Rome)— Hall 

Caine. 

5. The Deerslayer — J. Fenimore 

Cooper. 

6. A Certain Rich Man— Wm. Allen 

White. 

7. Romance of Two Worlds — Marie 

Corelli. 

8. Far From the Madding Crowd — 
Thos. Hardy. 

Bittersweet — J. G. Holland. 

The Servant in the House — Chas. 
Rann Kennedy. 

The Five Nations — Rudyard Kip- 
ling. 

In the Pala-ce of the King — F. 
Marion Crawford. 

13. Middlemarch — George Eliot. 

14. Without a Home— E. P. Roe. 

15. A Study in Scarlet — A. Conan 

Doyle. 

16. We (wee) Two — Edna Lyall. 

17. Reveries of a Bachelor — D. G. 

Mitchell. 

18. In Black and White— Rudyard 



9. 
10. 

11. 

12. 



Kipling. 

19. Rose (rows) in Bloom — Louisa M. 

Alcott. 

20. The Opened Shutters — Clara 

Louise Burnham. 

SUPPLEMENT 
Tableaux and Charades 

1. Small girl crying. 

2. Man mending a very ragged sock, 

others strewn on floor. 

3. Pretty girl admiring herself in mir- 

ror. 

4. Pile of silver money. 

5. Man on floor, covered with two 

flags. 

6. Quartet singing (out of view). 

7. Several bricks. 

8. Man carrying a suitcase marked 

Indianapolis. 

9. A young girl dressed in an old- 

fashioned costume. 

10. Group holding hands to form circle. 

11. A red-headed boy. 

12. Woman mending hole-y garment, — 

clock on wall points to midnight. 
Answers 

1. The Crisis (cry sis) — W^inston 

Churchill. 

2. When a Man's Single — Jas. M. 

Barrie. 

3. Vanity Fair — W. M. Thackeray. 

4. Hard Cash — Chas. Reade. 

5. Under Two Flags — Ouida. 

6. The Choir Invisible — Jas. Lane 

Allen. 

7. Bricks Without Straw— A. W. 

Tourgee. 

8. The Gentleman from Indiana — 

Booth Tarkington. 

9. An Old-Fashioned Girl — Louisa 

M. Alcott. 

10. The Circle — Katherine Cecil Thurs- 

ton. 

11. Red-Head— John Uri Lloyd. 

12. It's Never Too Late To Mend — 

Chas. Reade. 





THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscriber- Questions relating 
to recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Commimications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answers by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit $1.00. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, editor, Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. 



Query 1752. — "Recipe for ten brick-loaf 
pans of bread and an inexpensive cake that 
will serve twenty-five people." 



3 quarts of liquid 

2 cakes of compressed 

yeast 
V2 a cup of liquid 
V2 a cup of sugar 



% a cup of shorten- 
ing 

IV2 tablespoonfuls of 
salt 

About 9 quarts of 
flour 



Ten Loaves of Bread 

Soften the yeast in the half cup of 
Hquid, mix thoroughly and stir into the 
rest of the liquid in which the shorten- 
ing has been dissolved. The liquid must 
be at a lukewarm temperature when the 
yeast is added to it. Add the sugar and 
salt and stir in the flour to make a 
dough that can be kneaded. Knead the 
dough until it is smooth and elastic. 
Cover and set aside to become double 
in bulk. Mixed at about nine o'clock 
at night it will be ready to shape into 
loaves about six o'clock in the morning. 
After the loaves are shaped, let stand 
again to double nearly in bulk. Bake 
about one hour. If the dough be kept 
at about 68 or 70 degrees Fahr. two or 
three hours after it is first mixed, the 
temperature may be lowered thereafter 
without injury to the bread. 

Roxbury Cake 



V2 a cup of butter 
1 cup of sugar 
1 cup of molasses 

1 cup of sour milk 
4 yolks of eggs 

3 cups of sifted flour 

2 teaspoonfuls of cin- 

namon 



1 teaspoonful of 

cloves 
Grating of nutmeg 

2 teaspoonfuls of soda 
4 whites of eggs 

1 cup of currants or 
nut meats 



Prepare in the usual manner, sifting 
the soda and spices into the flour and 
then sifting the whole together. The 
recipe makes three dozen small cakes. 



1 cup of butter 

2 cups of sugar 
1 cup of milk 

3 yolks of eggs 

4 cups of sifted flour 



3 rounding teaspoon- 
fuls of baking 
powder 

3 whites of eggs, 
beaten dry 

1 cup of chopped nuts 



Plain Cake 

Bake the cake in a dripping pan. Be- 
fore baking sprinkle the top with the 
chopped nuts and dredge with granu- 
lated sugar. 

Query 1753. — "Recipe for Cinnamon Buns."" 

Cinnamon Buns 

Prepare the mixture given in the 
Seasonable Recipes under the name of 
Swedish Tea Ring. \A'hen the dough 
is light, roll into a rectangular sheet — 
less than half an inch in thickness ; 
spread the surface with butter, sprinkle 
on half a cup or more of dried currants 
and dredge with a tablespoonful or more 
of ground cinnamon mixed with one- 
fourth a cup of sugar, roll the dough in 
the same manner as a jelly roll; cut in- 
to pieces about an inch and a quarter 
in length and set these, end upwards, 
close together, in a buttered baking dish. 
When light brush over with a yolk of 
egg, beaten and diluted with two or 
three tablespoonfuls of milk, and bake 
about twentv-five minutes. 



160 



Menu for a Thanksgiving Dinner 

A* i!* <&* 

" The ornaments of a house are the friiends that frequent it.' 

Clam Broth with Cream, Bread Sticks 
(Three at each plate tied with orange and red ribbon) 

Celery. Olives. Salted Butternuts 

Boiled Fresh Codfish. Potato Balls 

with Parsley 

Hot House Cucumbers 
(French Dressing with Chili Sauce and onion juice) 

Young Hen Turkey, Roasted, Sausage 
Dressing 

Cranberry Jelly. Cider Apple Sauce 

Giblet Sauce. Yams en Casserole 

(with maple syrup and butter) 

Mashed Turnips 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce 

Sweet Cider, Frappe 

Braised Ham in Aspic Jelly 

(with dressed lettuce and tiny string beans) 

Pumpkin Pie. Apple Tarts with Meringue 

Ginger Ice Cream or 

Vanilla Ice Cream with 

Preserved Ginger 

Edam Cheese. Browned Crackers 

Coffee 

Apples. Pears. Grapes 



The 

Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



Vol XVI 



NOVEMBER, 1911 



No. 4 



Raising Turkeys for Thanksgiving 



By a Woman 



THE turkey has long been 
crowned king of the Thanks- 
giving feast. He was elected 
to the position many years ago, for the 
sake of his many good qualities; but 
at that time, turkeys were more plen- 
tiful and less expensive than they are 
today. 

During recent years, there has been 
a regrettable scarcity of this bird, and 
epicureans have looked forward 
mournfully to the time when our fav- 
orite fowl should become extinct, like 
the dodo. Questions as to why tur- 
keys are so scarce in the market have 
brought explanations to the effect that 
the young chicks are very hard to raise 
and that few growers are willing to 
even attempt them. 

In the midst of such statements, it 
is pleasant to record the success of 
one woman in raising young turkeys. 
Where poultrymen have failed repeat- 
edly she seems to have surmounted 
'the difficulty. 

Moreover, this woman does the 
work in spare hours, besides attending 
to household duties. She has been in 



the business for four years, taking it 
up first as an excuse for much open- 
air living, as ordered by her physician, 
who suggested that she cultivate flow- 
ers or vegetables. She has always 
been fond of pets, liking to handle 
live creatures ; she knew of the scar- 
city of this kind of poultry, so she 
decided to take up the work of grow- 
ing turkeys. Her health has been 
much improved, and she has apparent- 
ly removed the difficulties from the 
business of turkey-raising. 

She had, at first, but little knowledge 
of her subject, but she studied it care- 
fully. Comparison of different breeds 
ended in her choice of the Mammoth 
Bronze, which is doubtless our finest 
variety. Knowledge of the needs and 
habits of young turkeys came by de- 
grees, learned in the school of experi- 
ence. Classing turkeys in with ducks 
and geese, she located her first coops 
in low, marshy land, only to find her 
young stock growing listless and mak- 
ing poor growth. After a few of them 
had died, she tried the experiment of 
removing the coops to high land, well 



163 



164 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




A TYPICAL GROUP 



drained and gravelly. There the 
flock showed such decided and im- 
mediate improvement that she could 
not fail to understand how hurtful 
dampness is to young- turkeys and 
could govern her course accordingly. 
It is probable that many of the fail- 
ures that have discouraged breeders 
resulted from this same simple cause, 
which they failed to note at the be- 
ginning. 

Other points have been gleaned in 
the same manner, by personal obser- 
vation, which always gives the truest 
type of knowledge. She has learned 
that turkeys and chickens should 
never occupy the same ground, but 
should be kept entirely separate, al- 
lowing the turkeys to run upon a wide, 
free range of their own. 

If the breeding stock is not well 
matured, or if it is not in good healthy 
condition, the young chicks will lack 
vitality. For this reason, new turkeys 
that are not related must be bought 
and added to the flock each year, so as 
to cross the strain and prevent inter- 
breeding. In order to guard against 
mistakes and possible purchase of 
nearly related stock, it is best for a 
breeder to keep careful account of each 



turkey's pedigree. 

The hard work on a turkey farm 
begins with the breeding season, 
early in April. Yearling hen turkeys 
lay perhaps a month earlier, but eggs 
from these immature mothers are not 
usually set, and two-year-old birds 
rarely begin to lay before April. Dur- 
ing this breeding season, a little lime 
water is excellent for the birds. They 
drink a great deal of water, and the 
addition of a little lime gives material 
for Qgg shells, which in the case of a 
turkey egg are quite strong and thick, 
as is needed to contain the weight of 
an Qgg so large and heavy. 

In order to keep the hen turkeys 
laying well, it is necessary to remove 
the eggs each day from the nests, and 
to set these eggs under hens as fast 
as a sitting is gathered. If an old 
turkey hides her nest away, she will 
seldom lay more than a dozen eggs 
before beginning to sit, and she is then 
of no more use for that season. If 
her eggs are taken away each day, and 
if she is shut up for a few days when 
broody, she will lay from thirty to 
forty eggs, and can then be allowed 
to sit about the middle of June. She 
makes an excellent mother, and is as 



RAISING TURKEYS FOR THANKSGIVING 



165 



easily managed as a sitting hen would 
be. She can easily cover thirteen of 
her own large eggs, but if a hen is used 
to hatch them she must not be set on 
more than seven, unless in very warm 
weather. 

The nest should be made in a good 
roomy box, with a layer of sulphur 
or one of wood ashes under the straw, 
in which a nest is hollowed out, round 
and rather deep, so as to keep the eggs 
from rolling out from under the hen 
and becoming chilled. As the poults 
begin to hatch, part of the straw 
should be taken out, making the nest 
shallower and more roomy, so that 
the mother will not step upon the baby 
chicks. If they are taken away from 
her as soon as hatched, she can give 
better care to those still in the egg, 
and the whole brood can be given to 
her when all are hatched. 

They should be put into a box- 
shaped house, having a tight roof 
and a tight board floor, to guard 
against dampness. To this box 
is attached a run several feet 
long, covered with wire screening. 
Box and run should be moved to a 
new place every day, so as to give the 
poults the advantages of fresh grass to 
eat and a clean dry location. Provision 





WHICH IS MORE PLEASED? 



SHOWING OFF 

must be made for ventilating the box, 
as turkeys require an unlimited supply 
of fresh air, and will perish if kept 
closed in without it even for a short 
time. 

In addition to moving the runs, the 
little turkeys should be let out to 
range freely for about two hours jf 
every afternoon that is not rainy. 
From two to four o'clock is the best 
time, as a later period permits the 
dews to gather. They have to be 
watched pretty closely during their 
rambles, for they have many enemies 
in stray dogs, prowling cats, and the 
fierce, wild hawks of the air. 

The young turkeys are helpless, 
harmless little creatures, striped and 
speckled in tones of brown, like a 
partridge. When danger arises, their 
instinct is to cower flat against the 
ground, in the shelter of some rock, 
stump, or bush if possible. They are. 
not at all timid, but very trustful and 
intelligent. Fear would have to be 
taught to them by unkind treatment 
For this reason, they are more easily 
handled than chickens, and can be 
picked up at will, or driven gently in 
a flock from one place to another, 
without being in the least frightened 
They seem to accept human care as 



166 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



a manifestation of human regard and 
interest. 

It is well worth while to keep a 
flock of turkeys tame and gentle, 
which is their natural disposition. This 
makes an easy matter of setting the 
turkey hens upon eggs, or sprinkling 
their plumage with powdered sulphur 
to ward off vermin, as should be done 
immediately after hatching, for lice are 
as harmful to the young poults as 
dampness. 

The proper food for the newly- 
hatched poults is a kind of salad made 
by chopping up lettuce leaves and 
hard-boiled eggs very fine together, 
and sprinkling with red pepper. For 
the first three days, they should eat 
nothing else, but should have all the 
fresh water that they can drink. After- 
ward, they may learn to eat stale 
bread moistened in milk and then 
wrung out dry between the fingers. 
They should have chopped lettuce, 
dandelions, and other green food, at 
least three times a dav; for their na- 



tural appetite is abnormal, and in a 
state of health they eat all the time. 
A good feed of ground green bone 
should be served to them three times 
a week; this helps to take the place of 
the hordes of insects which they would 
devour, if they lived in a wild state. 
Some ground grain is given to them 
gradually, but no cracked corn until 
they are three months old, as it injures 
their digestion. Green food in great 
abundance is necessary to keep them 
in good health. 

Illnesses are easily treated if the 
birds are tame. When one of the 
young poults begins to droop, put him 
upon a rigid diet of green food alone, 
and he soon recovers. It is well to 
give him two grains of bromide of pot- 
ash in milk as soon as you observe his 
listlessness. The chicks are sometimes 
subject to a common cold in the head, 
and for this trifling ailment the best 
cure is by spraying the noses of those 
aft'ected with kerosene, used in the 
ordinarv atomizer. This also disin- 




RAMBLIXG AFIELD 



THANKSGRING DAY IN THE MORNING 



167 



fects the bird, so that the trouble will 
not §'0 through the whole flock. 

There are two very critical periods 
in the life of a young turkey. These 
occur about the sixth week and about 
the tenth, when the red comb and wat- 
tles appear upon the head. It is well 
at these times to cut oiT the grain ra- 
tion, and give only chopped green food, 
with an increased allowance of the 
ground green bone, until the birds are 
safely through this doubtful season. 
A turkey that is three months old has 



finished "shooting the red," as it is 
technically called, and is practically as 
hardy as a chicken of the same age. 

It may seem that there is much hard 
work in turkey-raising, but there is 
also a fair share of profit. Anybody 
who is willing to make a study of the 
needs and habits of the turkey can 
realize a profit from the business, if he 
will but persist in his eiTort, not de- 
terred by the discouragements which 
await us all in our new business ven- 
tures. 



Thanksgiving Day in the Morning 

By Mrs. Charles Norman 



YOUNG Mr. Richard Blank and 
his family dog were going hunt- 
ing and to that end had risen at 
4 A. M. An hour earlier a faithful old 
negro servant had left her bed to make 
ready a good breakfast, and to this break- 
fast the young man had done full justice. 

"Taint no uze to go out lookin' for 
sport with your stomic empty," said the 
black woman, **y' better have another 
biscuit. I dun cooked a pan fu' and 
they'll be stone cold fo' any body elsen's 
up." 

Richard had already had enough, but 
the biscuit was small and light, and "one 
more" always seemed an easy way of 
complimenting the cook; so he took an- 
other to satisfy Susan Ann. 

The negro smiled and said "Takes a 
plenty of vituals when y' start out tramp- 
in'. Better take 'nother strip this bacon 
...Well, if yo' won't hab nuthin' mo', 
I'll be gwine to the kitchen. I hopes yo'll 
have a good time Mr. Dick and not kill 
a single thing." 

Susan Ann shuffled off to the kitchen, 
her face beaming at this parting pleas- 
antry; and Richard smiled as he picked 
up his gun, took a look at the shells 
and called his dog. 

It was Thanksgiving morning and very 
thankful he was of an opportunity to 



tramp abroad for a few hours in his 
favorite pastime of "quail" shooting. 
There was nothing quite so pleasant 
as hunting the little Bob Whites. In the 
first place they were sure to be found — 
quite likely in sufficient numbers to make 
things lively. It was something not to 
have to go to Africa to do his hunting, 
for Richard seldom had more than a half 
day. Then the dog enjoyed the pursuit, 
and dog and man were close companions 
in the game — a point which was import- 
ant in this case, for the young man loved 
every well-bred dog, and as for Solomon 
— he was the apple of his master's eye. 

The dog had had a good breakfast, 
also, and he knew very well what was 
meant by this early rising and taking the 
gun. His eyes showed delight, his ears 
were already pricked with anticipation 
and his tail was in an ecstacy. For Sol- 
omon's sake — if for no other reason — 
Richard would have been glad of the out- 
ing. 

A long ride by trolley was followed 
by a long walk. The morning was just 
cold enough to give relish to the expedi- 
tion. The travelers had gone some dis- 
tance, but had not yet reached the 
grounds to which they usually resorted, 
when suddenly a whole covey of quail — 
two or three dozen — darted across the 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



road, immediately in front of them, pass- 
ing, in good order, under the fence and 
into an old field. 

Richard was not in the habit of tres- 
passing upon strange territory and in this 
locality it was contrary to law to shoot 
upon any man's ground without his con- 
sent; but he was feeling especially eager 
to discharge that gun, and almost without 
knowing what he did he started toward 
the quail and gave Solomon the word to 
go forward. Both were in the field, in 
no time, and then Solomon had flushed 
the birds and Richard had shot. 

The next thing he knew there was a 
wild cry and two children appeared, as 
if by magic, in front of him and almost 
exactly in the place from which the bob 
whites had whirred into the air. 

Two children and a frightful cry ! 
Were they hurt? How many more 
youngsters might there be lying wounded 
in the grass ? Whose children were they, 
and on w^hose property was he trespass- 
ing? These questions followed each 
other as he leaped over the ground to 
where they stood. 

There they were, a boy of about nine 
years and a girl somewhat younger — 
the boy pale and silent, the girl also pale 
but crying violently. 

"Are you hurt? Tell me, are you 
hurt?" said Richard in alarm, unable to 
distinguish between a cry of pain and one 
of fright. 

The boy opened his lips as if to speak, 
but apparently could not. The girl for 
several minutes was not to be quieted 
and when at last the very kindly-disposed 
young man had subdued her fears, she 
sobbed : 

"1 thought my brother was killed." 

At this rather amusing announcement, 
the boy's face did not relax. He was 
still pale and he gave the stranger a re- 
proving glance which seemed to say : 

'Tt is no fault of yours that I am not 
killed." 

Richard felt rather uncomfortable at 
this silent rebuke. He was fond of 
children. He prided himself, also, on be- 



ing an honest, law-abiding sportsman, and 
knowing he had no right in that field, 
he felt the force of the lad's unspokeen 
argument. It took a good deal of friend- 
liness on his part to staunch the girl's 
flow of tears, to win one smile from the 
alarmed children, and to get from them 
the information that they lived at the top 
of the hill, that they had got up early 
without their parents knowing it, and had 
crept out to get a surprise for papa. 
They had picked a basket of walnuts, and 
were going to crack them and pick out the 
kernels for Father's birthday cake. This 
was their own farm. Nobody had a right 
to hunt here. W^hat was the young man 
shooting? 

"Quails," said Richard, not realizing 
the seriousness of the admission. "I saw 
them run across the road and — " 

"Quails?" said the little girl, in new 
alarm, while her brother frowned and 
became silent — "You mean Bob Whites ! 
Oh, I do hope you have not killed any! 
Oh, our pretty bob whites ! I hope they 
are not wounded ! Oh. they are wounded, 
they are killed!" cried the child as by 
sad mischance she discovered two bleed- 
ing birds. 

If Richard had had a hard time at 
first, he had a worse one now in offering 
excuses. The little girl had picked up 
the dead birds and was trying to revive 
them. The sight of blood seemed to 
alarm her as much as the report of the 
gun, or else she was as inconsolable over 
the dead birds as over the thought that 
her brother had been killed. Her distress 
was very hard to witness. No less so, 
because it seemed foolish. 

The boy set his lips firmly together, 
but not a sign of tears dimmed his eyes 
or interrupted his reasoning. He looked 
very hard at Mr. Richard Blank, and 
at length said severely : 

"Why did you need to shoot bob 
whites? Can't you buy chickens at the 
stores ? Aren't they good enough ? Bob 
whites are too useful to shoot. I know 
they are. because my Father says so, and 
our government says so. We have a 



THANKSGIVING DAY IN THE MORNING 



169 



whole book about that. Our government 
printed the book, at Washington. I wish 
you would read that book. We fed the 
bob whites last winter when the ground 
was covered with snow, and last summer 
sister and I found four nests and fifty- 
six eggs altogether. We like to watch 
the birds and we tried to teach them not 
to be afraid of getting hurt. They were 
our bob w^hites and no one had a right to 
shoot them." 

Richard was somewhat oppressed by 
this scolding so earnestly and eloquent- 
ly delivered. He was a little annoyed, too, 
that there was this prolonged interruption 
to his morning pleasure, but the children 
were really not to be blamed, and being 
a rational person he had to admit as 
much. Besides he was a young man of 
the truest culture and as such he could 
not rid himself of a tender consideration 
for childhood. 

"They are good birds — that is true," 
he said. "There are no better. But 
chickens are not so good to eat. Did you 
ever taste bob whites?" 

That was the wrong thing to say. "No," 
answered the irate boy, "and I never will 
unless I am starving. People do not 
have to eat just what they like." 

The little girl stopped crying only long 
enough to listen to her brother's brave 
speeches, then looking down at the dead 
birds in her hands, she resumed. And it 
was no blatant cry either, but pitiful. 

Richard was quite hopeless, and he be- 
gan to feel that it was he who, by rights, 
ought to have condolence. All his talk 
had availed nothing, and his patience 
brought no reward. "Well," said he, "I 
must go. I am very glad I did not hurt 
yon and I am sorry you will not be 
friends with me. When I am gone you 
must not think me cruel.. I enjoy being 
out of doors, just as you do. I like 
to hunt and so does my dog, and this 
is the first time in several months that 
we have had a chance to get out of the 
city." 

The little girl dropped her handker- 



chief and looked up at him with sym- 
pathy. The boy dropped his eyes and 
was quiet a moment, then he said : 

"Sister, I don't believe he meant to 
be so bad. He was just desperate, be- 
cause he had been shut up so long." 
He addressed no word to the stranger, 
who turned his head to hide a smile. 

"Goodbye," said the little girl, timidly. 

"Goodbye," answered Richard. 

"Goodbye," called the boy with re- 
serve. 

Richard waved his hand and walked 
to the road. His enthusiasm was spent, 
for he turned his face toward home, fol- 
lowed by the disappointed dog. 

"Well, well !" said the old negro 
servant when the young hunter was ad- 
mitted, "how's it hap'n yo come home 
empty handed? What yo' been shootin' 
at, 'at you couldn' hit?" 

"Bob whites," said Richard, turning 
toward the stairs. 

"Bob whites?" called Susan Ann, with 
a chuckle. "Them little creeters wus too 
much fur yo', wus they? Well, I tells 
you the truf, Mister Dick, yo'. ort to be 
mighty thankful to the Lord, 'at you 
did'n hit 'em birds. It wud ha' bin a 
'normous 'sponsibility on yo' head. I 
was raised up in the country with 'em 
bob whites and dey does hab a hard time, 
de Lord knows ! They's foxes and snakes 
and hawks and skunks and mowin' ma- 
chines and plenty of big things to take 
away de liberties of dem tiny creeters. 
An' Lord, but ain't dey little? It takes 
about a dozen to make a bite fur yo' 
and yo' ma and me." 

Mr. Richard had already disappeared 
from sight, but Susan Ann continued her 
admonitions. "You ought to be rejoicin' 
this blessed Thanksgivin' 'at yo' didn' hit 
'em. Tonight the Daddy bird will get 
up on a fence rail and whistle all the 
youngsters in, and I knows in my heart, 
it mus' console yo' to think de whole 
pacel of 'em will be dar, an' de family 
curcle all unbroken." 



*'Seem' Things" 

By Helen Coale Crew 



OUR old Mammy sat by the nur- 
sery fire with the baby on her 
lap. At times she told her pray- 
ers upon the worn brown beads upon her 
bosom, her lips moving gently ; at times 
she crooned a tender lullaby as the child 
stirred softly in his sleep. The firelight 
flickered upon the beads and upon the 
little downy head, and lit up the wrinkled 
face bent thoughtfully above. Some- 
times we who played about her so hap- 
pily and uproarously paused in our 
games to watch her with curious gaze. 
There was, at times, a strange aloofness 
about her, and her eyes had the far-away 
look of one who saw sights beyond our 
vision. 

We crept near. "What do you see, 
Mammy?" we asked. She gazed for a 
moment at the hot and eager little faces 
about her and then looked away — away. 

"I mind me o' the flax fields of ould 
Ireland and the glint o' the sun on thim," 
she would say, or, 'T'm thinkin' o' the 
little pool in the woods beyont our cabin, 
where the moonlight stepped on the water 
wid little dancin' feet;" or else perhaps, 
" 'Tis the little sweet face o' me mother 
I see, how it looked when I left her, an' 
may God rest her soul !" 

She crossed herself with reverent hand. 
We gathered about her knee, but she 
pushed us back gently lest we wake the 
baby. I held the fringe of her little plaid 
shawl in my fingers and wished I might 
see the things she saw. "What else do 
you -see," we urged. 

"There's the flax spread out in the sun 
to dry," she went on, one foot keeping up 
a drowsy measure upon the floor, "an' 
there's the big barn where we danced at 
night. 'Tis all lit up below, but dark 
above wid shadows, unless be chance the 
stars look in at the broken roof. An' 
there's Peter Lally playin' chunes on his 
fiddle. 'Tis the laughing eye he has in 
his head, and the ready word for every 



one. And meself's there, too, in a fine 
white apron, the same that I spun and 
wove meself, wid a border on it of the 
little green shamrock leaves." 

She paused to turn the baby, that the 
fire might not glow too warmly on his 
velvet cheek. 

"Do you really see all those things 
right before your eyes?" we asked. 

"What else would I be seein' ?" she 
said simply. 

We shut our eyes, rubbed them, opened 
them, stared intently, but saw nothing be- 
yond the nursery walls, save where the 
window gave a view of the garden and 
orchard and the last great crimson feath- 
ers of the vanished sun. We held a 
whispered conclave. "Let's see if Sarah 
sees things," suggested one, and forth- 
with five stoutly shod pairs of small feet 
clattered hastily down the back stairway 
into the dark regions below. Mammy up 
there in the nursery had been known to 
see fairies ; perhaps Sarah in the base- 
ment could see ghosts ! This uncanny 
thought hastened our steps, and we fell 
headlong into the kitchen. 

A huge old room it was, warm and 
dim, a place where all could sniff the 
sweet odors and a favored few could 
scrape the mixing bowl. Beside the stove 
an old-fashioned Dutch oven was built 
into the brick wall. Hal had tossed a 
lighted bunch of fire-crackers in there 
one Fourth o' July, and wrought havoc in 
a handsome batch of pies ; and once, when 
we had opened it for purposes of inves- 
tigation, a huge cat, gaunt with hunger, 
had jumped madly out and run amuck 
amongst us. 

Sarah was getting supper. When she 
lifted a stove lid and looked into the 
ruddy depths of the fire, her round black 
face took on shining high lights and her 
broad nose cast a sinister shadow across 
one cheek. Little black Tilly stood at 
the table. She greased the mufifin tins 



iro 



SEEIN' THINGS 



171 



and wiped the lard from her fingers upon 
her brief petticoat. Her innumerable 
little woolly braids stood up stiffly about 
her head, and her lips protruded in a 
broad pink pout. Sarah poured the bat- 
ter into the tins and put them into the 
oven. She looked so different from( 
Mammy as she stood there with her arms 
akimbo. Her glance was never far away, 
but always immediately present, and bent 
indulgently upon us, sharply upon Tilly. 
Was it worth while to ask her? Finally 
the boldest amongst us, nudged on to 
action, made the venture. 

''Sarah, do you ever see things that 
aren't there?" 

''Does you mean ghoses ?" asked Sarah. 
Tilly's eyes rounded. 

"Why, yes ; or things you used to know. 
Mammy sees things away off in Ire- 
land." 

Sarah sat down and clamped the coffee 
grinder firmly between her knees, grind- 
ing deliberately. "Yas," she said, at last, 
slowly. 'T,kin. Whiles I sees one thing 
and whiles I sees another, but mos'ly I 
sees myself whenst I war de purties' 
nigger gal in all o' Queen Anne County, 
wid a pink dress on an' a wreath o' roses 
on my haid." 

The coffee was all ground, but Sarah 
went right on turning the handle. The 
little drawer with its fragrant contents 
slipped out and fell to the floor. Sarah 
paid no heed and we dared not speak. 
Her eyes became misty, and she gazed 
far away, over our heads. 

"Yas, indeedy," she went on ; "there 
was the big bonfire we uster build the 
night the corn was all gathered in an' 
de pumpkins piled on de barn flo'. Basil 
was a-cou'tin' me in those days. I 
couldn't take a step but what he was 
right thar at my elbone. I done danced 
till I clar' wore my shoes through. An' 
how de harves' moon did shine ! 'Twar 
as big — as big as that thar platter what 
Tilly broke dis mawnin'." Here she 
reached out to administer a belated jus- 
tice, but Tilly ducked under the table. 
Sarah resumed her grinding and her 



story. 

"Yas, sir, dat moon mus' sho'ly a had 
a good polishin' befo' de Lord hung it up 
in de sky. You don't see any sech moon 
nowadays. No, sir ! An' when I mar- 
ried this here Basil, come Christmas 
time, Mistress made me a weddin' cake 
ezzactly like white folkses. Yas, sir, I 
made a handsome bride, everybody say 
so." 

The outer door opened and the coach- 
man entered. He shook a powdery veil 
of snow from his coat, and hung up his 
cap upon a peg. His hair was as white 
as the snow he shook from his shoul- 
ders. 

"Better git along wid yo' supper,, 
Sarah," said Basil. "Marster's home." 

Sarah descended rapidly to the imme- 
diate present and its claims, and we 
youngsters beat a hasty retreat. We 
went up to the hall and sat in a row upon 
the settee. What was this mysterious 
power which caused familiar walls to 
fade away and alien shapes to take their 
comfortable places? You could, of 
course, think of the schoolroom even 
while you sat here upon the settee, or 
of the Cathedral where Mammy took us 
to see the saints and the candles and 
cross ourselves with holy water. Or you 
could think back into last week, when 
you went into fractions, or into last 
summer, when you broke your arm slid- 
ing on the ice-house roof. But these 
views and experiences lacked color and 
faded quickly. They never crowded out 
the sunny, warm, vivid present, the now 
which one felt so insistently with all one's 
being. 

Billy offered a demonstration. "See 
here," said he, "I'm thinking about the 
Christmas tree. Do I look queer and 
happy ?" 

"Aw, you're thinking of the one that's 
coming!" said Hal. It was, indeed, an 
anticipatory grin rather than the ethereal 
smile of reminiscence. There must be- 
a trick about this business. Perhaps yoU' 
rub your eyes a certain way and say 
"sally-mally-cally-bags," or some equally/ 



172 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



potent incantation, below your breath. 
"Let's try Father and Mother," occurred 
to us all simultaneously. And just then 
the supper bell rang, and we trooped into 
the dining room and took our places. 

The dining room was warm and bright. 
Over the open fire hung a picture of the 
Father of his Country, seated upon a 
white horse, and with right arm and 
sword extended straight out. You felt, 
between mouthfuls, that his arm must be 
very weary. You had tried the attitude 
yourself with Mother's yard-stick, and 
could barely maintain it a scant two 
minutes, counting fast at that. Con- 
fucius in his cage was sound asleep, head 
under wing; Tippu Tib rubbed against 
one's legs and purred comfortably, and 
Turk lay by the fire, his massive buff 
head and black nose resting upon his 
paws. 

Mother poured the cambric tea and 
the coffee. Her eyes were bright and her 
cheeks warm. You would be surprised 
to see how many of us she could hold 
on her lap at once, for all she was so 
little, not much taller than Nelson. 
Father was much bigger. He filled our 
plates, and Tilly, in a clean apron, passed 
them. Presently a kick went around the 
table, ending with Bonnie. He was to 
ask. He choked on his tea promptly, 
and a long minute went by before he was 
ready. 

"Mother, can you and Father see 
things that aren't right before your 
eyes?" 

Mother looked puzzled. 

"Can you see how you looked when 
you were courtin' each other ?" 

Mother gasped. Her lips parted but 
she said nothing. She gazed at the coffee 
urn. No, not at it, but through it. Her 
eyes grew dreamy. Fascinated, we 
turned to look at Father. He was look- 
ing at Mother. Was it Mother he saw? 
His eyes were tender, his lips laughing. 

"I can see her courting me," he said, 
and there seemed to be a happy joke 
somewhere. "There wasn't another girl 
in Baltimore could hold a candle to her. 



I can see her as she looked the night we 
young folks all drove out in sleighs to 
the big Assembly Ball at Catonsville. 
When I put her into the sleigh and tucked 
in the robes as we started home, I kissed 
her" — Father, even, was getting a little 
hazy — ^"and she whispered something I 
couldn't hear. Perhaps she asked me to 
do it again." 

Mother's cheeks glowed like poppies.. 
She tipped over the sugar bowl and the 
white lumps scattered about the table. 

"Why, Thomas ElHcott !" she ex- 
claimed, "I never did !" 

Then Tilly giggled and the spell was 
broken. 

So it was everywhere. Our old 
gardener, when questioned, saw sunny 
pictures of the Rhine country. Grand- 
mother looked back upon her little self 
stitching a sampler and bobbing grave 
courtesys to her elders. Grandmother had 
to look back beyond many graves to see 
her glad visions. Basil's little old shriv- 
eled mother — ages old — in her tiny white- 
washed cabin "out yander" on the 
Hookstown Road, smiled toothlessly and 
saw joyful scenes through sightless eyes. 
Everywhere it was the same with our 
elders. But we children, uncomprehend- 
ing, saw only the present which we 
touched and knew and the future which 
we colored to suit our fancies. 

Years passed, in accordance with their 
fixed custom. Father and Mother and 
their eldest-born went away, one by one, 
to lie quietly side by side on the green 
slopes at Loudon. Like Moschus, when 
he laments for Bion, we cannot be rec- 
onciled to the yearly renewal of the 
mallow and the green parsley, while the 
good and great lie lapped in endless 
silence. Or so it seems. The future is 
harder to focus than the pa«t. And the 
five of us who remain have at last grown 
up — grown old ; the very baby is two 
score odd. Out of busy lives, out of 
divergent ways, out of the past, which 
used to be such a joyful present, at last 
one day the clan gathered, with silver 
speech and occasional golden silences. 



AUTUMN REVERIES 



173 



"It is queer," said one, "that our most 
vivid memories are often of the most 
trifling things. I remember at college a 
willow tree that stood at the foot of a 
wooded hill, just where I could see it 
from the laboratory window. And in 
the first warm days of March, against 
the misty purple of the treetops beyond, 
my willow flamed, a splendid thing of 
shimmering gold. How could I keep my 
eye at the microscope, or count the nerve 
ganglia of Lumbricus terrestris? The 
worm, poor thing, was dead, and by my 
hand ; but the tree was flushed from root 
to outermost twigs with life. One could 
see, from day to day, the urgent sap spill 
over into young leaves. This was my 
'host of golden daffodils.' " 

"You always were daffy on trees," said 
Hal. "I like to think of my numerous 
pitched battles. Hey, but they were glo- 
rious ! If little black Tilly hadn't been a 
lady, I'd have fought with her tooth and 
nail, more than once. I always wanted 
to be Horatius at the bridge or Achilles 
at the trench. Sitting beside Father at 
Meeting on Sundays I planned numerous 
campaigns for Hannibal that led straight 
to Rome, and thought out strategic moves 
for the Greeks that would have taken 
Troy in ten minutes instead of as many 
years. 

Billy the bachelor remembered most 



pleasantly, it seemed, the charming faces 
of his numerous sweethearts, and jeered 
at his brothers, with but one apiece. "Be- 
sides," he said, "we every last man of 
us proposed to Mother before we were 
out of skirts, and I'm the only one that 
has remained faithful." 

A golden silence fell. There came a 
rush of memories, so warm, so vivid, so 
tenderly, poignantly painful ! The room 
grew hazy; the walls melted away. 
Through misty eyes we smiled, and 
laughed with lips that trembled. The 
six-foot, bearded baby snuggled down on 
the sofa beside his sister. Hal reached 
over and whacked Billy on the shoulder, 
and Billy kicked Bonnie affectionately, 
if sharply, on the shins. What was it 
warmed our hearts to glowing point ? 

"See here," said Hal, suddenly. "Do 
you know what we're doing? We're 
'seein' things !' " 

We looked at each other. Was this it ? 
Was it thus Mammy used to look across 
the seas and behold her mother's face, 
and Sarah danced, a girl again, upon the 
old plantation? Yes, we knew it now, 
the painful joy, the sorrowful gladness. 
We had the magic formula purchased of 
Time at the expense of Youth. W^e could 
touch the crumbled dust of dead years, 
and behold, a garden blossomed ! 



Autumn Reveries 

By Edith C. Lane 



Come back to me at autumn time. 
When the fields are filled with sheaves, 
And the frost-nipped woods hold council, 
With a shower of tinted leaves. 

When asters gaily brave the breeze, 
And the world seems wrapped in a maze, 
Of gold and purple shadows, 
O'er-wrought with an amber haze. 



When clusters of waving golden rod, 
By the roadside nod and lift, 
And the hours of mystical happiness, 
Pass sweetly, and all too swift. 

From the world of a far beyond, 
Gleam lights of the Orient, 
And changing clouds in the sky. 
Bring a message of sweet content. 



Then come to me, my dearest, 
And together we will go, 
Through balsam-scented pathways, 
That only the wood-wise know. 



The Misunderstanding of Mayberry 

By Kuth Hall Johnson 



MR. and Mrs. Judson Mayberry 
were two amiable young peo- 
ple who lived in a charming 
little suburban cottage, which was ex- 
actly like the charming little suburban 
cottage, to the right of them, and the 
charming little suburban cottage to 
the left, also the one across the way. 
But whereas the Mayberry's cottage 
had a tiny garden in the rear, the 
Wilkins' had a smooth croquet-lawn, 
and the Sawyer's — a chicken-yard. 
However, as the Sawyers were most 
kind and neighborly in the way of 
passing fresh eggs over the back-fence 
into Mrs. Mayberry's apron, and as 
Mr. Sawyer spent most of his leisure 
hours in making the wire-fence around 
his chicken-yard impervious to even 
the smallest bantling, the cottages 
were on the best of terms. 

As the year and the garden were 
yet young, the back-yard transfers had 
been largely one-sided, but the May- 
berrys cast proud eyes upon their 
rows of springing green, and thought 
with swelling hearts of the June peas 
and tender lettuce with which they 
would by-and-by regale their dear 
friends, the Sawyers. 

Affairs stood thus when one day, 
things having gone unusually well in 
town, Mayberry swung himself from 
an early train and walked rapidly up 
the street. Something desolate and 
forbidding in the aspect of his home as 
h approached it chilled him, and he 
saw with a shock that the door zvas shut. 

The cat came "mewing" to meet 
him and wrapped herself forlornly 
around his legs. As he stooped to 
stroke her arching back a voice called, 
"Mr. Mayberry!" 

Mrs. Sawyer, arrayed in crisp 
white, sat slowly swaying in a rocking- 



chair upon her vine-screened porch. 
Raising her eyes from the bit of sew- 
ing in her hand, she repeated, **Mr. 
Mayberry! O, Mr. Mayberry!" 

Mayberry disengaged himself from 
the cat by a vigorous motion of the 
legs, and crossed the grass to the 
dividing-hedge. 

''Do you know where Almeda is, 
Mrs. Sawyer?" 

"Indeed, I do," replied Mrs. Sawyer 
with animation. "Almeda's Aunt 
Eliza came in from the farm this morn- 
ing and brought you a lot of things, 
and took Almeda home with her to 
preserve strawberries." 

"But neither Almead nor I eat pre- 
served strawberries !" exclaimed May- 
berry, in bewilderment. 

"That is what Almeda said, but 
every good housekeeper preserves 
strawberries, and Miss Eliza has some 
remarkably fine ones. Almeda will be 
gone two or thee days she thought, 
and you will have to live at home or 
let us give you your meals, as you 
prefer." 

"Oh, I wouldn't think of troubling 
you, Mrs. Sawyer. I daresay Almeda 
left something in the house." 

"O yes, and Miss Eliza brought 
some doughnuts and things. Oh ! 
there's the telephone — I suspect it's 
Joe. Excuse me, Mr. Mayberry." — 
and with a whisk and rustle of starched 
skirts, Mrs. Sawyer was gone. 

Mayberry retraced his steps, entered 
his front door, and in the course of 
a quarter of an hour emerged from the 
rear, in a negligent garden costume, 
bearing a hoe. He worked energetical- 
ly, for a few intrepid weeds had dared 
to spring up in those sacred plots, un- 
til a drawling voice inquired, "Howdy? 
You and your pets seem quite sociable, 



174 



THE MISUNDERSTANDING OF MAYBERRY 



175 



Mayberry. Were you having a hoe- 
ing match? Judging from the results, 
I think I'll back the fowls." 

]\Iayberry straightened himself with 
a jerk, whirled 'round, and perceived, 
at no great distance, two three-quarter- 
grown Dominicker cockerels, half ob- 
scured amid the debris of a bed of 
young onions. The stout yellow legs 
were vigorously scratching, while the 
absorbed fowls conversed in a series 
of inarticulate gutterals, chuckling 
fatuitously. Mayberry regarded them 
for a moment of dumb rage, then, 
brandishing his hoe, exploded. 

"Get out !" vociferated Mayberry. 

''Meaning me?" meekly queried 
Sawyer. Then did Mayberry, with ill- 
suppressed fury, turn upon his erst- 
while friend. 

''See here, Sawyer, I've always con- 
sidered you a gentleman, but a man 
who turns his half-starved chickens 
into a neighbor's garden, to fatten up- 
on the products of his labor " 

"Why, Mayberry, did you make the 
worms? Glad you told me! I didn't 
know that ! . . . Besides, they're not my 
chickens." 

"Not your chickens? Isn't that a 
Dominicker?" 

"Yep." 

"And that?" 

"Yep." 

"And aren't yours Dominicker?" 

"Nope. Mine are Plymouth Rock." 

"Same thing." 

"Can't help it. Those are not my 
birds." 

Sawyer, who had been standing at 
ease, his elbows on the fence and a 
delighted grin wreathing his face, 
stiffened. 

"Mayberry, do you really believe me 
capable of a caddish thing like that?" 

Before Mayberry could reply, the 
chickens, having thoroughly discussed 
the matter in low tones, took affairs 
into their own hands and, rising upon 
their rudimentary wings, flapped 
heavily over the fence into Sawyer's 



domain. Mayberry said nothing, but 
stood in an accusing silence. Then : 

"If those chickens or any other 

or any other'' repeated Mayberry, im- 
pressively, "are in my garden again, 
I shall immediately quench the vital 
spark thereof!" 

"Very well, — but they're not my 
chickens." And Sawyer retreated to 
his own domain, v/hence soon issued 
guffaws mingling with feminine ex- 
postulations. 

The next morning Mayberry arose 
at dawn and gazed from his window 
upon the Invaders, reclining at ease 
in the ruins of a cherished lettuce-bed. 

Hastily donning a few indispensible 
articles of clothing, he descended and, 
with unspeakable havoc, ran down and 
captured one of the enemy, and tossed 
the lifeless body over the dividing- 
fence. 

All that day peace brooded over the 
garden, though Mayberry did not go to 
town, but labored to repair, as best he 
might, the ravages in the garden, shot- 
gun within reach. No more "running 
down" for him ! 

The next day the second victim met 
his Waterloo, and for the second time, 
appetizing odors floated from the Saw- 
yers' kitchen as Mayberry boiled his 
bachelor dinner. 

After dinner Mayberry repaired to 
the garden, hoe in hand, but he had no 
heart to work. Listlessly he raised 
the hoe, listlessly it fell again. 

At the sound of a beloved voice 
he turned to clasp Almeda to his 
breast. 

"O Judson dear, the garden! What's 
happened to the garden? Come into 
the house and tell me everything! Did 
Jessie Sawyer give you my message? 
Did you find the doughnuts and things? 
Oh, and where did you put the chick- 
ens?" 

Mayberry's head whirled, and he 
stared at Almeda, open-mouthed. 

"Chickens? Almeda, what are you 
talking about?" 



176 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



"Why, the two frying-size chickens 
Aunt Eliza brought us. Didn't Jessie 
tell you about them? We'll eat them 
tomorrow. — Why, Judson darling, 
what is it?" 

Mayberry had collapsed in his 
Morris-chair. 

"Those chickens?" he said feebly, 
"We can't eat them tomorrow, dearest, 
...the Sawyers ate them today!" 

"Indeed, the Sawyers did nothing of 



the kind !" burst in indignant denial 
from the lips of Mrs. Sawyer, as she 
set a dish dramatically upon the table. 
"There are your chickens, Almeda 
Mayberry ! I cooked them or they 
would have spoiled. But we certainlv 
did not eat your property." 

Mayberry grasped his hat. "Almeda, 
you make it right with her, . . . I'm going 
to find Joe Sawyer!" 



On the Use of Napkins 

By Kate Gannett Wells 



THIS diminutive of the old French 
word "Nape" for tablecloth has 
become a sign of refinement, just 
as the ubiquitous lace tidy is suggestive 
of a love of cleanliness or of 
a desire to have one's parlor 
trimmed up as effectively as some 
one's else sitting-room. Thus it has 
come about that, while the napkin is not 
as essential to making a good appearance 
as is a curtain, a tidy or a rug, it yet is a 
truer guide to the amount of civilization 
or income in a family. Much depends 
on the manner of use, especially when a 
finger bowl is not an adjunct. Shall it be 
so applied to service as to ensure general 
facial cleanliness, or merely to moisten 
the lips and tips of the fingers ? Certain- 
ly, sometimes, it is comical to watch its 
progress back and forth, in and out, amid 
wrinkles and around the corners of a 
mouth or the ends of the moustache. 

Just as the method of application be- 
comes characteristic of the user, so is 
the shape and the manner in which it is 
folded indicative of the owner or of her 
butler, if she be not mistress of her own 
household. Luckily the custom in cer- 
tain hotels and restaurants of placing 
napkins upright or spread out fan-shape 
in tumblers is only spasmodically prac- 
ticed, soon to be discarded out of pre- 



ference for the squarely folded napkin, 
which marks a hostess as belonging to a 
distinguished old family. But that a nap- 
kin should, also, serve as a non-conductor 
of heat to the warm roll wrapt in its 
folds is contrary to aesthetic cleanliness. 

Aggravating in its tenuity is a square 
linen napkin, compared with the sub- 
stance of a heavy damask one that really 
protects the user thereof. But wealth 
alone, with expert laundresses, can afford 
the half-a-yard square napkin. Fringed 
napkins, alas ! are out of style, replaced 
by hem-stitched ones, so easy to do up. 
Only the rich can provide fresh nap- 
kins three times a day. The amount of 
useless laundry work that is done or hired 
done by those who can ill afford such 
expense is sheer snobbishness, and the 
careless guest who makes such laundry 
necessary is as reprehensible as the pre- 
tentious hostess. Why should a napkin be 
crushed up and thrown, debonair fashion, 
on the dining table, if the guest who used 
it is to be on hand for the next meal? 
Just because it would be old-fashioned 
and neat to fold it up in its c?eases, it 
might be answered, — as if those virtues 
were dishonorable ! 

So many hostesses make themselves 
slaves to self-imposed adoption of other 
people's ways, regardless of the effect 



THE USE OF NAPKINS 



177 



upon themselves. A few years ago it 
was deemed sacrilegious to use paper 
napkins at a church sociable, though not 
at a secular picnic. Yet why not let them 
be constantly used in family life, sav- 
ing time and work for the housekeeper, 
just as we have learned that luncheon 
without a tablecloth is good form. Why 
not, also, at the dinner? When we have 
scant money and strength, why should 
we continue to use tablecloths that take 
so long to iron? Of course, it is said, 
one cannot be a true lady unless she en- 
joys and covets exquisite table linen, 
though she is the truer economist and 
humanitarian, who, not possessing the 
linen, uses small inexpensive napkins, 
paper ones, perhaps, and a bare table, 
or one covered with enamel cloth. Just 
as long as we prefer to make work for 
ourselves rather than to adapt our ways 
to our incomes, shall we lack culture, 
that intensive culture which comes 
through books, nature, and bits of leisure 
in which to do, — nothing. 

Thus do napkins become tests of what 
we stand for in quiet self-independence, 
in care for those who toil for us, and in 
our love for things of the intellect and 
heart. Still it was a deacon who prayed 
on behalf of his minister: "O Lord, 
grant him Thy grace and we will keep 
him poor." If the reverend man was 
obliged to do without napkins, certainly 
his deacon needed them to enlarge his 
notins concerning the necessities of life. 

If individual preference may decide 
the size of napkins, certainly cleanliness 
demands their use "as far as practicable," 
a phrase almost as risky in the house- 
hold as it is in legislation. If preven- 
tion is their domain, the purposes of 
aestheticsm and table beauty are also 
subserved by their use, even if we do 
not make _ their value a vital requisite 
where incomes are small. For it is the 
persistent use of some kind of napkin 
that is essential to health, not an uniform 
standard of its weight and measure, and 



social position is determined by the man- 
ner of use more than by its face value. 
Surely good table manners are more than 
ever needed today, when athletics and 
casualness have invaded the dining room 
to such a degree that well-born women 
lean their elbows on the table, fork in 
hand, talking as glibly as if they were 
not also eating at the same moment, ig- 
noring the fact that cordiality towards 
food does not mean lack of grace in its 
manipulation. Casual table manners in 
boys and girls are as execrable as is their 
freedom towards elders. 

We are in danger of becoming faddish 
in regard to needless ways of being 
cleanly, justifying them as sanitary 
measures. The Sioux Indian deems it 
but courtesy to return a borrowed kettle 
with ''a small portion of the cooked food 
in the bottom," as the owner must al- 
ways know how it has been used, else 
she will not lend it again. But the 
American woman considers such custom 
impolite and unsanitary, and due to 
curiosity alone. 

Fortunate, therefore, is it that labor 
legislation is beginning to avail itself of 
all personal experience rather than of any 
one individual method, in determining 
how far comfort and health, as well as 
prevention of accidents, should be in- 
cluded in our statutes. Not merely 
should the scope of law be specified, but 
the ''discretionary powers of officials" 
should be defined rather than made to de- 
pend upon what any local board of health 
may determine as sufficient, responsibil- 
ity and penalty alike being fixed. 

Why may not housekeepers apply 
some of the principles of this later legis- 
lation to their homes, and, taking nap- 
kins as a point of departure, reduce need- 
less home niceties to the sane demands 
of health and comfort, and penalize the 
woman, who wears herself out in super- 
abundant laundering, by confining her to 
the use of paper napkins ? 



Pink Lustre 

By Alix Thorn 



THE living room was very quiet 
with only a falling coal in the 
broad fire place to break the still- 
ness. On the fur rug, basking in the 
grateful warmth lay Kits, the blue 
Persian, both fluffy paws outstretched, 
while Bud, the bull pup, occupied a 
sightly position near the French window, 
watching for his beloved young master 
to return. 

It was Kathleen who spoke, raising 
troubled brown eyes to her mother's 
face : — ■ 

"Do you think I ought to go, Mother, 
do you think I must be the one?" 

''You see how it is, sweetheart," was 
Mrs. Kinsman's reply, ''you know Father 
and I have been planning for weeks 
to spend Thanksgiving at "The Maples," 
not because we desired to leave home 
and all you precious children, at the holi- 
day, but just because tw^o lonely old 
ladies, my mother's friends, wanted us 
at this time. Then Father's sprained 
ankle changed everything. As we could 
not come. Miss Augusta wrote, begging 
that one of my girls might act as sul)- 
stitute. It seems hardly fair to ask 
Margaret to give up all her engage- 
ments for Thanksgiving week, consider- 
ing it's her first season, so there remains 
my big little girl to represent the family 
— will she go?" 

"Oh, Mother?" imploringly, "What 
else is there for me to do? But I shall 
be just as homesick for this dear home," 
looking around the room as if to im- 
press it upon her memory, "I know I 
shall; I don't want Margaret to miss all 
her lovely times ; she does look so pretty 
in her new gowns, yet, oh, jNIother, 
Thanksgiving in the country away from 
you all — I'm lonely already." 

"It's a fascinating old house," began 
Mrs. Kinsman, "and Miss Augusta and 
Miss Maria are two of the very sweet- 



est women I've ever known — real old 
gentlewomen. They will enjoy you, 
Kathleen, and the three days will quickly 
pass." 

"I suppose so," was the reply, and her 
usually cheerful voice was so pathetic 
that the mother was tempted to smile — 
"but I don't see why they want me'' 

It was the day before Thanksgiving, 
and Kathleen, chin in hand, watched the 
sombre November landscape, as seen 
from the car window, brown fields, leaf- 
less trees, quiet homesteads, little vil- 
lages, white spires and the broad, turbu- 
lent river that the track followed. She 
had already ridden two hours, and two 
hours yet remained before she should 
reach Travers Center and "The Maples." 
She adjusted her brown toque, settled 
herself in her chair, and tried to think 
she was comfortable. A magazine lay 
neglected in her lap, while her thoughts 
flew more swiftly than the moving train 
back to the home she had left, and the 
dinner she was to miss. Her mother al- 
ways planned such novel arrangements 
of fruit and flowers — quaint color 
schemes, an altogether bewitching whole, 
each year a new surprise. Thanksgiving 
was truly a time of rejoicing in the 
Kinsman home; everyone expected a 
jolly time, and here was she, Kathleen, 
traveling every instant away and away — 
and then she winked hard, for trouble- 
some tears filled her eyes. 

It was almost dusk when she left the 
warm train and found herself on the 
platform at Travers Center, facing a 
little, bleak country station. One or two 
loungers, with hands deep in pockets, 
surveyed her with evident interest, and 
as she looked around in uncertain 
fashion, wondering w^hat was the next 
move, the station master, himself, came 
to meet her, his shirt sleeves billowing 
in the wind. 



178 



PINK LUSTRE 



179 



''Is your name Kinsman?" he inquired 
loudly, "for if it is, the Wentworth rig 
is a waiting for you on the other side 
of the station." 

'Thank you," replied Kathleen with 
girlish dignity — "I am Miss Kinsman," 
and picking up her bag, she followed 
the direction of his pointing finger. A 
two-seated covered carriage stood close 
to the platform, and the driver, a bent 
old colored man, quickly stowed away 
her baggage under the seat, and slapping 
the reins on the broad back of the white 
horse, made leisurely progress down the 
village street. A few lights were 
twinkling in the stores and houses, and 
the one hotel exhibited a swaying lantern 
on the piazza. 

" 'Taint but half a mile to the Went- 
worth's, Missie," volunteered her com- 
panion — "we'll soon be there," and it 
seemed but a few minutes before they 
turned into a dark driveway, at the far 
end of which shone the illuminated 
doorway of The Maples, Two little, 
smiling ladies with hands outstretched 
welcomed the young guest. 

" And this is Kathleen ! " chirped Miss 
Augusta. "So you are Kathleen !" mur- 
mured Miss Maria. " When last we saw 
you, you were but a babe." " We're so 
glad to have you with us ! " said her 
hostesses, almost in chorus, and drawing 
her into the square hall, they shut out the 
November night. 

" I'm beginning to be just a wee bit 
glad I came," said Kathleen to herself a 
few moments later, as she glanced around 
the dainty room assigned to her with its 
old-fashioned furniture, snowy dimity 
hangings, and cheerful grate fire. "This 
huge house must seem pretty lonely with 
no company at Thanksgiving; I wonder 
if that great piano in the back parlor is 
ever opened. I'd so like to try it." 

It w^as Miss Augusta, who after supper 
inquired, "Dear child, will you play some- 
thing for sister and me, preferably a 
cheerful air? It would do us both good." 

"Yes, Kathleen, m.y" dear, play, do," 
entreated Miss Maria, and thus urged. 



Kathleen willingly seated herself on the 
long mahogany stool, and the sedate 
apartment fairly re-echoed to the strains 
of The Garden of Roses, The Land of 
Bohemia, and airs from The Chocolate 
Soldier. "So lovely !" exclaimed Miss 
Augusta, delightedly. "I find my foot 
will keep tapping." 

"You inherit your talent from your 
mother, my love," smiled Miss Maria, " I 
well remember the sweet selections she 
used to play when she came here as a 
girl." And thus approved, Kathleen 
played on, and on until the tall clock in 
the hall warned them it was bed time. 

The next morning was gloomy and 
overcast, and with a feel of snow in the 
air. A chill wind stole up the drive, 
rocked the old maples and roared around 
the house, as if trying to make those in- 
side glad that they were comfortably 
housed away from the wintry weather,' 
giving them extra cause for thanksgiving. 

Kathleen was standing by one of the 
library windows after breakfast, idly 
watching the weather vane on the stable, 
when she heard a step behind her, and 
turned to see that Miss Maria had entered 
the room. She was smoothing her lace 
trimmed apron in rather worried fashion, 
and Kathleen imagined that the dear little 
lady was not looking her usual cheerful 
self. 

" I am feeling a trifle concerned about 
dinner," explained Miss Maria, " no, not 
about dinner, itself, for Matilda, the cook 
we have had for many years, is very satis- 
factory, and ever a dependable creature, 
but, you see, it's Mrs. Blanchard." 

" Mrs. Blanchard " repeated the young 
guest. 

" Yes, Mrs. Blanchard," began Miss 
Maria, " she and her sister are our other 
guests today besides yourself. You see, 
Mrs. Blanchard, she was Polly Winslow, 
is a former schoolmate of ours but has a 
long time resided in Boston, is a town 
woman, as you might say, and is visiting 
in our village. We cannot help feeling a 
certain responsibility, with Mrs. Blanch- 
ard coming, about, well, about the table 



180 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



decorations. Your dear mother has such 
exquisite taste ; you have seen city tables, 
I know. Wouldn't you, child, give us 
your advice about ours, wouldn't you?" 

Kathleen's cheeks, of sudden, glowed 
crimson, and unconsciously she straight- 
ened. Was Miss Maria really asking her 
help, her advice ! It was almost as if she 
were the adored grown sister at home. 
Yes, she, fourteen year old Kathleen, was 
actually desired to council with these 
little ladies about the always important 
Thanksgiving table, how inspiring, how 
comforting! Impetuously she clasped 
Miss Maria's thin little hand, '' Oh Miss 
Maria," she sighed, "I'd just love to. I 
know we can make the table as pretty as 
possible. We'll surprise Mrs. Blanchard, 
yes, we'll surprise her." And together 
they hurried to the dining room. Miss 
Augusta, with Jane the waitress, was 
anxiously surveying the table as the ex- 
cited pair made their rather dramatic 
entrance. 

'' Kathleen is willing to help us about 
the table, sister," cried Miss Maria in a 
trembling voice, "she has seen charming 
effects in her own home, and now look 
around, dear, and tell us what 'vou would 
do." 

" We shall be very glad of assistance," 
chimed in Miss Augusta, " you see the 
uest dinner set is white with a gold band. 
We could think of nothing better than the 
regular fern dish for a center piece, but 
that is so every day, even if the ferns are 
in beautiful condition. Perhaps," hesitat- 
ingly, "we should have ordered carna- 
tions from town." 

Kathleen surveyed the dignified apart- 
ment with its dark wood work and high 
ceiling, the great windows and deep 
corner cupboards guarding their treasures 
of old china, that would have driven a 
collector wild with envy, could he have 
been privileged to explore them. 

" Oh, what is this lovely pink set ! " ex- 
claimed the girl, examining a high shelf 
where quaint cups and saucers, plates and 
Dlatters made a brave showing. " I know, 
but, T cannot think what it is called. \N& 



have a teapot almost like it at home — oh, 
isn't it lustre? 

" Yes, my love," answered Miss Au- 
gusta, "it's called Pink Lustre, and this 
set belonged to our Aunt Delight. It 
lacks but a few pieces, and we understand 
it is quite rare." 

" Could we use it today ! " cried Kath- 
leen — " could we ! It's the sweetest china 
I've ever seen — some sunsets have just 
that wonderful pink." 

" Most certainly we can use it today if 
you wish to," replied the old ladies, and 
then, to the great surprise of them all, 
Kathleen suddenly slipped away, and was 
discovered five minutes later by Matilda, 
the cook, wandering around the forlorn 
looking flower beds. 

At precisely five minutes before the ap- 
pointed hour Mrs. Blanchard and her sis- 
ter arrived with a great fluttering of veils 
and a great rustling of silken skirts, and 
were ushered into the spare room to re- 
move their wraps. Then, as the clock 
struck two, the folding doors of the din- 
ing room were thrown open, and the table 
stood revealed to the eyes of the ex- 
pectant guests. 

" My dear Augusta, my dear Maria," 
began Mrs. Blanchard, settling her plump 
self into her chair, " will you permit an 
old friend to compliment you on your 
charming table ! 'Tis truly charming ! It 
is but the truth to say that I am accus- 
tomed to handsome dinner tables — one 
cannot live in Boston as long as I and 
not be used to fine decorations, both at 
luncheons and dinners, and I realize your 
scheme of color is fortunate, girls, is 
fortunate." 

Snowy damask covered the round table, 
the quaint family silver shone brightly ; 
the center piece dull pink, late chrysanthe- 
mums in a great crystal bowl stood on a 
heavily embroidered square, which was 
powdered with the tiny, separate flowers. 
The china was the treasured Pink Lustre, 
which exactly toned in with the tint of 
the blossoms; transparant pink jellies 
quivered in low, pink dishes, pink candies 
filled little glass boats, while apples and 



PINK LUSTRE 



181 



winter pears, delicately pink, were piled 
high in a pierced silver basket usually 
dedicated to cake. 

The two hostesses fairly glowed with 
satisfaction, their dinner was a marked 
success ; Mrs. Blanchard from Boston ap- 
proved the whole, what more could they 
ask? " Kathleen is responsible for our 
decorations today," they announced with 
evident pride, '* it was her own idea." 

" Well, I have always said, and always 
shall say, that a good dinner calls for a 
handsome table. Everything should be 
in keeping," announced Mrs. Blanchard. 
She laid down her fork, and her white 
puffs shook impressively. Altogether, it 
was a most fortunate occasion ; the spirit 
of youth and jollity crept in, and half to 
their own surprise, the old ladies recalled 
Thanksgivings long past, yet vividly re- 
membered, describing merry parties in 
this very house, until one could almost 
hear the fiddles, and the light tap of 
dancing feet. Mrs. Blanchard quivered 
with silent laughter as she recalled an 
upset in a great snow drift on the way to 
a donation at the minister's. '' Remem- 
ber the very boy I went with," she as- 
sured them, " and he lost one mitten, be- 
lieve it was a red one, rescuing me, 
poor chap, and it was a nipping cold 
night, too." 

"I don't believe he minded much," 
smiled Kathleen, who was a most appre- 
ciative listener — " oh, don't you all know 
some more stories ! " she pleaded, " these 



are so interesting; what good times you 
must have had; why didn't / live long 
ago ! " 

It was late when, at last, Mrs. Blanch- 
ard and her sister drove away, vowing 
that they had never spent a more delight- 
ful Thanksgiving. 

Early next morning Kathleen stood be- 
tween her gentle, old friends, waiting for 
the carriage which should take her away 
from them. It was with real regret that 
she said goodbye. ''You'll come next 
year — you'll surely come to us ! " they 
said hopefully. 

" I shall want to," she assured them, 
yet next year seemed very far away to 
fourteen — so much could happen before 
then. 

" We had a lovely dinner," she said, it 
was all right, wasn't it ? " " We were 
certainly gratified, my dear," they an- 
swered. 

" I can see Polly Blanchard's face 
now," smiled Miss Augusta. " She will 
tell about it wherever she goes in the 
village," glowed Miss Maria. 

The wheels sounded on the gravel, and 
Miss Augusta clasped Kathleen in her 
frail arms. 

''Goodbye, child !" she whispered, 'T'm 
thankful you were lent to two old ladies 
to make their holiday complete. It 
wasn't the Pink Lustre, it wasn't the 
flowers that crowned our feast — it was 
just you — just you, our little Thanks- 
giving Girl." 



The Passing 



By Stokely S. Fisher 

Peace, O my heart — it is not far ! 

Like light that lingers where a star 
Has -died the still, warm smile ; the air seems 

stirred 
Yet by the music of her farewell word : 

It is not far! 

How wonderful ! it is not far — 

Only a thin veil, not a bar — 
Only a step, a heartbeat's time, between! 
I know not why it all should be unseen: 

It is not far ! 



182 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor 



I 



372 



PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR 

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Thanksgiving 



What have I that most I treasure, 
Hours of joy and days of pleasure, 

Shady paths and sunny vistas 
And a rose environed vv^ay? 

Nay, but lips, Mfhose bloom caressed me. 
And the little love that blessed me, 

'Tis for these I thank Thee, Father, 
On this glad Thanksgiving Day. 

What have I in which I glory. 
Honors gained, well worth the story, 

Wealth of gold to guard and cherish, 
In a miser's doting way? 

Nay, but hands reached up to hold me. 
And a child's love shyly told me, 

'Tis for these I offer praises 
On this glad Thanksgiving Day. 

What have I that's worth the gaining? 
Laurels fade and joys are waning, 

Gold and honors, beauty, pleasure. 
With the years, they fade away; 

But the sweet child-trust that crowned me. 
And the fair child-faith that bound me, 

'Tis for these, Oh, God, I thank Thee, 
On this glad Thanksgiving Day. 

Lalia Mitchell 



VARIETY IN DIET 

T seems to me the most tiresome 
truism to harp on the need of variety 
in diet. When experts are devoting their 
energy to inventing and exploiting new 
dishes and new ways of preparing old 
ones, there is positively no excuse for 
monotonous menus. Yet it it unfortun- 
ately true that even in this day of en- 
lightenment many families move along in 
well worn ruts repeating every week, day 
by day, the same old program with very 
slight variation. It is no wonder that the 
children lose their appetite, and the 
husband ceases to take any interest in 
mealtime. 

A common fault in housekeeping is to 
repeat ad nauseam a favorite dish. A 
young man once remarked that he had 
never dared to praise any article on the 
table for fear it would be served hence- 
forth for seven days in the week. His 
fond mother seeking to please his taste 
did not realize how she was tiring him. 
The most delicious viand in the world 
loses its charm with constant repetition. 
Only bread and butter will stand the 
every day test. 

To put it very baldly, lack of variety 
means sheer laziness. For laziness is of 
many kinds, mental, moral and physical. 
Many a housekeeper, who never shirks 
actual work, does not exert her brains 
enough in planning for her table. She 
does not consider it necessary. Others, 
who are more or less bright about think- 
ing of new things, are always too busy or 
too tired and constantly postpone the hap- 
py day for a special delicacy. Happy is 
a family where the good housekeeper 
understands and lives up to the belief 
that variety in diet is as important as in 
our pleasures. • 

COOKING WITH BRAINS 

THE famous reply of Turner to the 
man who inquired ho\v he mixed 
his colors — ''With brains, Sir'' — has 
pointed many a moral, but is nowhere 
more applicable than in cooking. The 



EDITORIALS 



183 



beginner anxiously asks all sorts of 
questions of the experienced housekeeper, 
and gets all sorts of repHes. But in the 
end she finds that to a certain extent 
she must work out her own salvation 
by the use of brains. She learns very 
soon that the best of recipes do not al- 
ways bring good results. She wonders 
why her cake is not so light as that 
of the friend who told her how to make 
it, and concludes that it must be the 
quality of the baking powder. It is only 
long experience that teaches her that the 
delicacy of a cake depends more on beat- 
ing than on baking powder. So, too, 
though she may try innumerable rules 
for biscuits and pie crust, ultimate suc- 
cess depends upon a certain knack in 
handling the ingredients. The secret of 
"quick biscuits" is in having the dough 
as soft as you can handle, while con- 
versely the flakiest of pie crust is 
achieved by having the least possible 
water to hold the materials together. It 
requires no little patience to learn these 
tricks of manipulation, but once acquired 
they are invaluable. Experience, too, 
must teach the cook the ways of her 
oven, and the use of the various tools of 
her trade. At every turn she must apply 
the rules of common sense, and the 
measure of her accomplishment will be 
according to her brains. 

THE TRICKS OF THE TRADE 

AS the experienced housekeeper 
moves about her daily routine, 
there are a hundred little tricks of the 
trade which she puts into constant ac- 
tion. The awkward beginner looks with 
admiration at the skill and ease which 
in course of time become a matter' of 
habit. There are many things which 
"sound easy," and "look easy" but which 
really require peculiar deftness. It is not 
until we try for ourselves that we reahze 
the difficulties of some of the commonest 
every-day domestic tasks. It is no mean 
accomplishment to know how to make a 
fire and run a stove, how to roll out pie 
crust, how to turn an omelet, how to fry 



griddle cakes, how to cook a dropped tgg, 
how to ice a cake. A thick crust, a 
ragged omelet, a raw griddle cake, a 
broken dropped tgg, and a messy cake 
icing are among the abominations of 
housekeeping. These are but a few of 
the multitude of things which, strange to 
say, appear not infrequently upon the 
tables of reputable housekeepers. Every 
woman who sets herself to acquire the 
art of cooking should be ambitious to 
perfect herself in details. Wherever a 
knack is required she takes genuine sat- 
isfaction in mastering it. No one can be 
a finished cook who does not command 
the tricks of the trade. 

THE UNEXPECTED MENU 

IN the perplexities of housekeeping 
it is very natural for the homemaker 
to consult the family as to the choice 
of food for the day. What would you 
like for lunch ?" she asks at the breakfast 
table, and as lunch is ending she sighs 
wearily, "what shall we have for din- 
ner?" And precious little satisfaction or 
information she gets from the replies : 
"I don't care," "Anything you like," 
"Suit yourself," etc. When people have 
just eaten to repletion, their opinions 
are very hazy as to a meal five hours dis- 
tant. They are amused, if not annoyed, 
at the mere mention of eating again. 
In fact, it almost spoils a meal to know 
beforehand what they are going to have. 
The zest of a dish is in its unexpected- 
ness. So the successful housekeeper 
must learn to keep her troubles to her- 
self. It may not seem altogether fair, 
but it is the part of wisdom. And in the 
end small domestic perplexities are less 
wearying if not talked over. 

A clever housekeeper will invent many 
a ruse to draw out her family as to their 
preferences — between meals. She will 
treasure up every casual allusion to a 
favorite dish. She will study carefully 
the individual taste. She will not leave 
her planning till the eleventh hour, and 
then be obliged to take what she can 
get, but she will try to combine fore- 



184 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



sight with good judgment, 
should be surprises. 



Her specialty 

E. M. H. 



HOW NEW WORDS COME INTO 
OUR LANGUAGE 

IN language, as well as in roads, we 
travel by different vehicles. The 
words of one age vary widely from 
those of another; and there are inven- 
tions in expression as well as in me- 
chanics. Also the same law applies to 
both, the test of use and availability. 
One man invents a word, as one man 
invents the steam engine, wireless 
telegraphy or any other wonder. But 
its acceptance must mean that the 
world is ready for it. 

It is said of Julius Caesar, who was 
as wonderful in literature as in war, 
that he warned against every unusual 
word as against a rock. But if so, the 
above law applies ; one avoids a rock 
at sea, but what more welcome than 
the shadow of a great rock in a weary 
land? 

Plato is said to have substituted 
"Providence" for ''fate," and so with 
subtle prescience to have anticipated a 
revolution in the moral world. Cicero 
called "moral philosophy" what before 
his time was named the "philosophy of 
manners." In an old translation the 
"Song of Solomon" is called the "Bal- 
lard of Ballards"; and from this phrase 
"Psalm-singers" were called "Ballard- 
singers." To-day the word "knave" is 
a title of opprobrium ; but in ancient 
times the Apostle Paul was called "a 
knave of Jesus Christ," because in old 
times "knave" meant loyalty and faith- 
ful service. 

A friend of Maria Edgeworth said, 
when an old lady, that she had lived to 
hear the vulgarisms of her youth 
adopted in drawing-rooms. In her 
youth "to lunch" was known only to 
the servants' hall ; in her age it was 
familiar to ladies of rank. She justly 
ridiculed the phrase, "a nice man," as 
of a pudding or some other eatable 
thing! 



The word, "answer-jobbers," was 
made by Swift familiar with pamphlet 
war. The famous Marquis of Lans- 
downe coined "to liberalize," which an- 
tedated the noun "liberals." Formerly 
the adjective "liberal," from which 
both these words were derived, had 
had exactly the opposite meaning, it 
had been rendered "libertine" or "li- 
centious." That much-used expres- 
sion, "the spread of knowledge," owes 
its origin to Dr. Priestly. The elder 
DTsraeli brought in the word "father- 
land," which Byron and Southey after- 
ward used. 

We have gained in language as in 
all other things belonging to civiliza- 
tion. Yet many of our modern Latin- 
ized words are far less picturesque than 
those of the same meaning used by an- 
cient writers. Our word "executioner" 
cannot compare in expressiveness and 
solemnity with the old Anglo-Saxon 
word "deathman." How much more 
illustrative of its meaning than our 
modern "vagabond" is the ancient 
word "scatterling" ; the old word was 
"moonling" where we say "lunatic." 
The peculiar short shrill cry of the 
grasshopper Herrick describes most 
expressively by the word "pittering." 
Whoever it was who spoke of "envy 
dusking the lustre of genius," he used 
a phrase for which to-day gives us no 
equal. 

In the revised version of the Bible 
we have gained in clearness and com- 
prehension, but among these words 
and phrases changed in revision, there 
are some expressions, the very quaint- 
ness of which gave them an added sig- 
nificance. 

That words of Saxon origin lie near- 
est our hearts is proved by these being 
the expression of all deep, strong and 
sudden emotions. 

Many a word and phrase now com- 
monly used in culinary parlance can 
not be found as yet in the latest edi- 
tions of our dictionaries. f. c. s. 




POELED CHICKEN AGAINST BLOCK OF BREAD, MASHED POTATO IN FRONT 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful- 



Caviare Slices, Remoulade 

FROM thin slices of Boston brown 
bread stamp out small round or 
heart shapes, and spread lightly 
with butter. Mix two ounces of Russian 
caviare with a tablespoonful of lemon 
juice, one-fourth a teaspoonful of cay- 
enne and a teaspoonful of onion juice, 
and with a silver knife spread the pre- 
pared bread quite thick with the 
caviare. Mix together the sifted 
yolk of a hard-cooked egg, half 
a teaspoonful of fine-chopped parsley, 
one teaspoonful of tomato juice 
(this should have been reduced to a thick 
paste by cooking) one-fourth a teaspoon- 
ful of prepared mustard, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of grated onion and one 
tablespoonful of cold Bechamel sauce. 
When all are thoroughly blended, fold in 
one rounding teaspoonful of thick mayon- 
aise dressing and pipe above the caviare. 



Set aside in a cold place until the moment 
of serving. 

Consomme Lilienne 

Cut one ounce of blanched almonds in 
lengthwise shreds, Julienne style ; shred 
in the same manner two large truffles 
and six canned mushrooms. Serve these 
in two quarts of hot consomme. 

Consomme Mancelli 

Wash and pare one carrot, and cut it 
in Julienne shreds ; clean half a head of 
celery and cut as the carrot, also cut an 
onion in small shreds. Cook the vegeta- 
bles in two tablespoonfuls of butter over 
the fire ten minutes, but do not allow 
them to color. Add a quart of consomme 
and let simmer half an hour, skimming 
as needed to remove fat, etc. When 
ready to serve add a second quart of 
consomme and when boiling remove from 
the fire and add a cup of roasted chest- 



185 



186 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



nuts, peeled and blanched and cut in fine 
shreds. 

Poeled Chicken 

Wash and dry two young chickens and 
truss as for roasting. With a larding 
needle draw eight or ten long pork 
lardoons into the breast of each chicken. 
Trim the ends and tie each lardoon in a 
loose knot. Set on a rack in a casserole, 
baste with hot fat, cover and let cook in 
a moderate oven from one hour to an 
hour and a half. Baste each ten minutes 
with hot fat. Remove the chickens from 
the oven as soon as they are tender. 
Cook the giblets in the casserole with the 
chickens. Chop fine and add to a sauce 
made of two or three tablespoonfuls, 



Remove the trussing threads from the 
chickens and set them, breast downwards, 
against the block, one at each end of the 
platter. Pipe mashed potatoes between 
and garnish with celery leaves. The 
chickens will rest securely against the 
block, but should be removed one at 
a time to another platter for carving. 
Celery or oyster croquettes may be used 
on each side of the platter in place of 
the mashed potato. 

Left Over Chicken or Turkey 

For one cup of cold, cooked chicken 
or turkey, cut in small bits or chopped, 
make one cup of white sauce or use left 
over giblet sauce. Have the sauce hot 
and let the chicken stand in it, without 



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CHICKEN LARDED WITH SALT PORK LARDOONS 



each, of flour and the fat in the casserole 
and a cup and a half of broth. From a 
loaf of stale bread cut a block, square at 
the base (size of the end of loaf) 
and about three inches square at the other 
end. The finished block should be two 
or three inches higher than the length of 
the base. Fry this in deep fat or spread 
on all sides with butter and let brown in 
the oven. Mix a little white of ^gg with 
flour to a thin paste, spread this on the 
center of a serving dish, over it press 
the hot block of bread and let stand in 
a v/arm place to set the ^gg, when the 
block will be fixed firmly on the plate. 



boiling, until very hot. If there be a 
scanty allowance of chicken, make up' the 
measure with peas or bits of cooked cel- 
ery. Have ready four or five rounds of 
toast ; dip the edges in boiling salted 
water, spread very lightly w^ith butter and 
cover with the mixture. If a cold, hard- 
cooked ^gg be at hand, sprinkle the meat 
with the white, chopped fine, and sift a 
little yolk on the center of each round. 
If convenient fill the center of the dish 
with tomatoes, stewed with soft bread 
crumbs and seasoned with salt, pepper 
and a tablespoonful of butter. 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



187 



Braised Beef Tongue, 
Spinach 



with prepared spinach, two tablespoonfuls of 

cream or Bechamel sauce, half a tea- 
spoonful or more of salt and half a tea- 



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LEFT OVER CHICKEN OR TURKEY 



Put a beef tongue over the fire in cold 
water to cover, add an onion in which 
two cloves have been pressed and heat 
to the boiling point, then let simmer about 
an hour or until nearly cooked. Remove 
the skin from the tongue. Have hot in 
a casserole a cup of tomato puree and 
about two cups of brown stock, well flav- 
ored with ham, parsley, onion, celery, car- 
rot and sweet herbs. Put in the tongue, 
cover and let cook in a very moderate 
oven nearly an hour or until very tender. 
In the meantime cook two pounds of 
spinach and chop it exceedingly fine. 
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; in it 
cook a slice of onion, grated or chopped 
very fine ; when slightly yellowed add the 



spoonful of pepper. Mix all together 
thoroughly and shape in a bed on a serv- 
ing dish. Cut the tongue in slices and 
dispose in a wreath on the spinach, one 
slice overlapping another. Set a slice of 
hard-cooked tgg on each slice of tongue. 
Thicken the liquid in the casserole with 
flour cooked in butter, strain and serve 
as a sauce. 

Salad of Tongue and Spinach 

Cut cold, boiled tongue in slices and 
with a tin cutter stamp out the sHces in 
perfect rounds. Press hot spinach, sea- 
soned with salt, pepper, butter, and onion 
juice if desired, into well buttered tim- 
bale molds. When cold unmold on the 




BRAISED BEEF TONGUE, WITH SPINACH 



188 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



slices of tongue. Set a spoonful of Sauce 
Tartare above each shape of spinach. 

Tongue Sandwiches 

Chop cold, boiled tongue very fine, mix 
with sauce tartare and use to spread any 
variety of bread prepared for sandwiches. 
Chicken may be mixed with the tongue. 
Boston brown bread or plain white bread 
are both good for this purpose. If sauce 
tartare be not available, use chopped 
capers, olives, cucumber pickles (mustard 
pickles at discretion) onion and parsley 
with the tongue, and moisten with 
creamed butter. 

Tongue in Aspic Jelly 



cool add such additional flavoring as is 
desired. If the broth has not been clari- 
fied, the crushed shells and the slightly 
beaten whites of two eggs must be added 
with the gelatine and the whole stirred 
constantly until the boiling .point is 
reached. After boiling five minutes let 
settle and strain through a napkin, cool 
the liquid, set the mold (an oval Char- 
lotte Russe mold was used in the illus- 
tration) in a pan of ice and water and 
pour in a little of the prepared broth; 
when this is firm, set the pieces of egg 
upon it, the edge of the yolk against the 
sides of the mold and the pieces entirely 
around the mold. Set pieces of olive, 
capers, figures of truffle etc., on the jelly 



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TONGUE IX ASPIC JELLY 



For a beef tongue, boiled or braised, 
cut when cold into neat slices, about five 
cups of clarified and well seasoned 
chicken broth or consomme are needed, 
also two truffles, cut in slices or figures, 
some olives, sliced lengthwise, and two 
hard-cooked eggs, cut in quarters length- 
wise, and the quarters in halves crosswise. 
Gelatine also is needed and the broth 
may be flavored with wine if desired. If 
the broth of itself jellies when cold, the 
quantity of gelatine may be lessened. 
For a broth that does not jelly one pack- 
age of gelatine will be required. Let this 
soak in a cup of cold water, then dissolve 
in the five cups of broth ; when partially 



in some regular pattern ; put a few drops 
of aspic on each article to hold it in 
place, then cover with aspic ; also fill the 
spaces between the pieces of egg and the 
mold with half-set aspic. Dip slices of 
tongue, cut to fit the mold, in aspic and 
press them against the sides of the mold 
to surround it. Add other decorations 
in same manner. Then fill the mold with 
the tongue and the aspic. Set the slices 
of tongue in the mold endwise rather than 
flat, that in serving whole slices may be 
taken from the end. Serve with fresh 
vegetable salad and French or Mayon- 
naise dressing. 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



189 



Brioche For Vol-au-Vent 

Disolve two cakes of compressed yeast 



should be light. Set aside in a refriger- 
ator over night to become thoroughly 
chilled. Next day, turn on to a floured 




VOL-AU-VENT OF BRIOCHE 



in half a cup of luke-warm water ; meas- 
ure out four cups and two-thirds of bread 
flour, and stir enough of this flour into 
the yeast to make a dough and knead in- 
to a smooth ball ; make two gashes in the 
top of the ball, and at right angles 
to each other, and set the ball 
in a small saucepan containing half 
a cup of scalded and cooled milk. 
Let stand until light and puffy. To 
the milk and yeast mixture add three 
whole eggs, four yolks of eggs, two-thirds 
a cup of softened butter and the rest of 
the flour and beat with the hand until 
smooth Let stand in a temperature of 
about 68°, six hours, when the mixture 



board and roll to a rectangular strip one- 
fourth an inch thick. Spread the paste 
with soft butter and fold to make three 
even layers. Cut out with a vol-au-ven( 
cutter dipped in hot water. Score one 
inch from the edge through two layers 
of paste. Set the shape in a tin spread 
with paper. Cover and let stand to be- 
come light. Bake about twenty-five min- 
utes. After baking cut out the center at 
the scoring, trim the bottom evenly and 
use for a cover. Remove the center from 
the other part, to leave a case with walls 
three-fourths an inch thick. Use, reheat- 
ed, as a case, for cubes of chicken, oys- 
ters, lobsters, etc., mixed with a cream or 




POACHED EGGS, WITH CREAMED CELERY ON TOAST 



190 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



brown sauce. In the vol-au-vent shown 
in the ilhistration, the paste was rolled 
thinner after folding, and two pieces were 
cut out; the paste was again rolled thin- 
ner before the second piece (to be used 
as cover) was cut and this was decorated 
with crescent and oval shapes. The un- 
der side of these shapes was brushed 
over with cold water before setting them 
in place. By this means they will stay in 
place. 

Creamed Celery, with Poached 

Cut tender, niecly cleaned stalks of cel- 
ery in half-inch slices ; let cook in boil- 
ing w^ater until tender and the water 



pan (allow a teaspoonful of salt to a 
quart of water) ; into the water break 
fresh-laid eggs ; let stand undisturbed un- 
til the white next the pan is set. Care- 
fully run a spatula under each egg, to 
separate the tgg from the pan and avoid 
overcooking at the bottom. With a spoon 
dip a little water over the eggs to cook 
as much as desired, then with a skimmer 
remove the eggs to the toast. 

Macaroni, With Tomatoes and 
Green Peppers 

Cook half a pound of marcaroni in 
rapid-boiling salted water until tender, 
drain and rinse in cold water. Butter a 
baking dish, put in a layer of marcaroni, 




ROLLED APPLE DUMPLINGS 



is nearly evaporated. For four slices of 
toast and four poached eggs there should 
be a generous cup of the celery, measured 
after cooking, or nearly two cups of raw 
celery. Make a cup of cream sauce with 
two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and 
flour and one cup of rich milk, or half 
a cup, each, of cream and water in which 
the celery was cooked. Stir the celery 
into the sauce and let stand to become 
very hot. Dip the edges of the nicely 
toasted bread in salted boiling water, an 
instant only, spread Hghtly with butter, 
pour over the celery and sauce and set a 
poached egg above each slice. Garnish 
with celery leaves. 

Poached Eggs 
Have boiling salted water in a frying 



then a layer of canned tomatoes, sprinkle 
with green peppers, sliced or chopped 
fine, and grated onion ; add also a little 
salt. Continue the layers until the 
marcaroni is used, having the last 
layer tomatoes. Pour over the whole 
a cup of well seasoned broth and let bake 
about forty-five minutes. The onion may 
be omitted or grated cheese added at 
discretion. 

Macaroni Souffle 

Season a cup of white sauce with a 
teaspoonful of fine-chopped parsley and a 
little onion juice. Stir in one cup of 
boiled macaroni, chopped rather coarse, 
then the yolks of two eggs, beaten 
light. Fold in the whites of two eggs, 
beaten dry, and turn into a buttered bak- 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



191 



ing dish. Sprinkle with one-half a cup 
of soft crumbs, mixed with two table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter, and bake in a 
moderate oven about twenty minutes, or 



and turn with the knife until lightly 
floured, then knead slightly and pat and 
roll into a rectangular sheet less than 
half an inch in thickness. Pare and core 




PEANUT BUTTER AND FRUIT ROLLS 



until firm in the center. Serve at once 
with tomato sauce or with a cup and a 
half of white sauce, into which from one- 
half to a whole cup of grated cheese has 
been stirred. 

Rolled Apple Dumplings 

Sift together two cups of sifted pastry 
flour, four level teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
Work in one-fourth a cup of shortening, 
then mix to a dough with milk ; between 
half and two-thirds a cup will be needed. 
Turn the dough upon a floured board, 



four or five quick-cooking, tart apples 
and chop them rather coarse. Sprinkle 
the apples over the dough, dredge with 
two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
then roll like a jelly roll and very com- 
pactly. Cut the roll into pieces two 
inches long. Set these on end close to- 
gether in a buttered baking pan. Put a 
bit of butter on top of each roll. Bake 
in a quick oven about twenty-five min- 
utes. Serve hot with syrup and butter. 
Syrup may be made by cooking two 
cups of sugar and a cup of water from 
six to ten minutes. 




APPLE BAVARIOSE, WITH JELLY AND QUARTERS OF APPLE 



192 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Peanut Butter and Fruit Rolls 



jelly roll. Cut the roll into pieces 
about an inch and a half long. Set these 




APPLES, DUCHESSE STYLE 



Sift together two cups of pastry flour, 
half a teaspoonful of salt and four level 
teaspoonf uls of baking powder ; work in 
one-half a cup of shortening, then mix 
to a dough with sweet milk (about half 
a cup of milk will be needed). Turn up- 
on a floured board, and pat and roll into 
a thin rectangular sheet. Mix about one- 
third a cup of peanut butter into 
a tablespoonful of ordinary butter 
that has been beaten to a cream, 
and use this to spread over the 
dough ; sprinkle with sultana raisins 
or dried currants ; roll up like a 



on end close together in a buttered bak- 
ing pan. Bake about twenty-five 
minutes. 

Apple Bavariose, With Jelly 

For this dish half an inch of bright- 
colored jelly is allowed to set in the bot- 
tom of the mold. For this half a cup of 
currant jelly, melted in half a cup of boil- 
ing water, may be used; to this add the 
juice of half a lemon and half a table- 
spoonful of granulated gelatine, softened 
in cold water. The same result may be 
secured by boiling a red apple or two, cut 



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MERINGUE OF RICE AND PEARS 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



193 



in quarters, and the skin and cores of 
the apples used in the rest of the dish, 
in a Httle water until they are softened, 
then let drain in a cloth, pressing the bag 
slightly. To a cup of this liquid add the 
juice of half a lemon, one-third a cup of 
sugar and half a tablespoonful of gela- 
tine, softened in four tablespoonfuls of 
cold water. When the jelly is set but 
not very firm, drop in the bavariose mix- 
ture by tablespoonfuls. When unmolded 
garnish with quarters of apple cooked 
tender in a very light syrup. Boil down 
the syrup and serve in a bowl with the 
bavariose. 

Apple Bavariose 

Soften one tablespoonful and a half 
of granulated gelatine in one-third a cup 
of cold water. Press enough steamed 
apples through the sieve to measure one 
cup and a fourth. This should be quite 
consistent pulp ; to this add the grated 
rind of a choice lemon, carefully 
washed, and the juice of two lemons, 
the gelatine softened by standing in hot 
water and two-thirds a cup of sugar. 
Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then 
stir over ice-water until the mixture be- 
gins to set, then fold in one cup and 
a fourth of double cream, beaten firm, 
and the mixture is ready fox the mold. 

Apples, Duchesse Style 

Spread rounds, cut from slices of 
bread, with butter on both sides and let 
brown in the oven or saute in a little 
hot clarified butter. Have ready, for 
each service, five balls cut with a French 
potato scoop from large sour apples 
that have been neatly pared. Let the 
balls cook in syrup until tender through- 
out, turning often to preserve the shape. 
Remove the cores from the remnants of 
the apples and let cook in a few table- 
spoonfuls of water until tender, then 
press through a fine sieve. For a cup of 
this apple puree take three-fourths a cup 
of sugar and the juice of a lemon and 
let cook, stirring often, to the consist- 
ency of marmalade. Spread the crou- 



tons thick with the marmalade. Cut a 
short slit in the top of each little apple 
ball and insert a piece of angelica or cit- 
ron for a stem. Dispose five balls on 
each crouton. 

Meringue of Rice and Pears 

Pour about a quart of cold water over 
a cup of rice, put over a quick fire and 
heat quickly to the boiling point, stirring 
frequently meanwhile. Let boil two or 
three minutes, drain, rinse in cold water 
and drain again ; add three cups of milk 
and half a teaspoonful of salt and let 
cook until the rice is tender and the 
milk nearly absorbed ; add the yolks of 
three eggs, beaten light, one-fourth a 
cup, each, of butter, sugar, cream and 
orange marmalade, chopped fine. Stir 
until the egg is set, then dispose on a 
serving dish in a mound. The rice 
should not be too dry, but it should not 
spread too much on the dish. Above the 
rice set about four halves of pears, 
bringing the mound to a dome shape 
with them. Beat the whites of the three 
eggs dry, then gradually beat in four 
rounding tablespoonfuls of sugar. 
Spread a thin layer of meringue over 
the whole, then pipe on the rest to form 
some design. Dredge with granulated 
sugar and set into a slow oven for about 
ten minutes to cook, and, finally, color 
the meringue. Set halves of pears 
around the base of the dish and serve 
at once. Serve the pear syrup, cooked 
with half a cup of sugar, as a sauce for 
the dish. 

Muscovite Sherbet . 

Press a can of choice pears through 
a fine sieve, and a can of grated pine- 
apple through a cheese cloth, pressing 
out all the juice possible from the pine- 
apple. If more convenient and a very 
fine sieve be used, the pineapple may be 
pressed through the sieve with the pears ; 
add the juice of two lemons, two cups 
and one-half of sugar and two cups of 
cold water; stir until the sugar is dis- 
solved, then freeze in the usual manner. 



Menu for a Week in November 



To be wedded to your work is to live long and well:' — Hubbard. 



Breakfast 

Fried Oysters , Piccalilli 
Baking Powder Biscuit 
Baked Apples, Coffee 
Dinner 
Tomato Bouillon Celery- 

Roast Turkey, Bread Dressing, Giblet Sauce 
Cranberry Sauce Fruit Sweet Pickles 
Boiled Onions, Buttered Sweet Potatoes,, 
Southern Style 
Creamed Brussels Sprouts in Timbale 
Cases 
Apple Bavariose 
Squash Pie. Preserved Ginger 

Raisins. Nuts Coffee 
Supper 
Hot Crackers. Milk 

Toasted Marshmallows 



Breakfast 

Hot Dates, Cereal, Thin Cream 

Bismarck Rings, Toasted 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boiled Leg of Lamb, Caper Sauce 

Potatoes Creamed Cauliflower 

Lettuce-and-Celery Salad, Chili Sauce 

Dressing 

Baked Indian Pudding, Whipped Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Deviled Crabs 

Fresh jMade Bread-and-Lettuce 

Sandwiches 

Ginger Ale 

Home Made Caramels 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Salt Codfish, Creamed Baked Potatoes 

Graham Muffins 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Stewed Lima Beans 

Baked Apple Dumpling 

Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream of Celery Soup 
Cold Roast Turkey 
Scalloped Potatoes 

Squash 

Sour Cream Pie 

Coffee 



Breakfast 

Broiled Ham 
White Hashed Potatoes 

Cinnamon Buns 
Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Turkey Souffle or Croquettes 

Canned String Beans 

Poor Man's Rice Pudding 

Tea 

Dinner 

Broiled Beef Steak 

Mashed Potatoes 

Stewed Tomatoes 

Stewed Figs 

Drop Cookies 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Lamb-and-Potato Hash 

(with chili pepper) 

Dry Toast 

Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Kornlet Soup 

Apple-and-Celery Salad 

Bread and Butter 

Tea 

Dinner 

Shepherds' Pie 

(left over lamb) 

Squash Turnips 

Apple Tapioca Pudding 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Bacon. Fried Potatoes. Dry Toast 

Waffles, Syrup or Marmalade 

Tea 

Luncheon 

Rice Croquettes, Cheese Sauce 

on 

Bread-and-Cheese Pudding 

Stewed Tomatoes or Pickled Beets 

Sweet Apples, Baked 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Dinner 

Fillets of Haddock, Baked 

Bread Dressing 

Drawn Butter Sauce 

Cabbage Salad . Mashed Potatoes 

Annie "Pie Cre?m Cheese 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast Luncheon Dinner 

Cereal, Stewed Prunes Tomato-and-Lamb Soup Poeled Chickens, Cranberry Tellv 

Creamed Haddock au Gratin Dnions Stuffed with Nuts Mashed Potatoes 

Mashed Potato Cakes Rolled Apple Dumplings Macaroni, Italian Stvle . Celerv 

Baking Powder Biscuit Tea Cottage Pudding, Frothv Sauce 

Coffee Cocoa Half Cups of Coffee 

194 



Menus for Thanksgiving Day 



DINNERS 



I 

Cream of Oyster Soup 

Roast Turkey, Giblet Sauce, Cranberry 

Sauce 

Savory Rice Croquettes 

Boiled Onions 

Sweet Potatoes en Casserole 

Mashed Turnips. Squash 

Celery 

Pumpkin Pie 

Vanilla Ice Cream 

Coffee 

Raisins. Salted Butternuts 



II 

Roast Turkey, Giblet Sauce, Sweet Pickle 

Jelly 

Scalloped Oysters 

Creamed Onions 

Mashed Potatoes 

Squash au Gratin 

Chicken Pie, Family Style 

Lettuce, Chili Sauce Dressing 

Cranberry Pie. Pumpkin Pie 

Praline Ice Cream 

Apples. Nuts. Raisins 

Coffee 



III 

Consomme a la Royal 

(plain royal custard, tomato royal custard) 

Celery Hearts. Salted Pecan Nuts 

Turbans of Halibut a la Comtesse 

French Potato Balls, Boiled 

(with butter and chopped parsley) 

Philadelphia Relish 

Roast Turkey, Giblet Sauce 

Potatoes Anna. Baked Squash 

Cauliflower au Gratin 

Cranberry Frappe 

Wild Duck, Roasted 

Hominy Croquettes 

Wild Grape or Black Currant Jelly 

Thanksgiving Pudding 

Little Pumpkin Pies (Hot) 

Whipped Cream 

Coffee 

Nuts. Fruit. Raisins 



IV 



Grapefruit Cocktail 

Fried Oysters, Sauce Tartare 

Roast Turkey, Sausage Cakes 

Glazed Chestnuts 

(boiled tender, basted with glaze, in oven) 

Half-Glaze Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes, Vienna Style 

Cider Apple Sauce 

Currant Jelly 

Boiled Onions. Mashed Turnips 

Roman Punch 

Brioche Vol-au-vent 

(filled with wild duck fillets in salmis sauce) 

Pear-and-Pineapple Sherbet 

Sponge Cake 

Coffee 
Fruit. Nuts 



Supper for Twenty-Five Guests 

Chicken-and-Celery Croquettes 

(two-thirds chicken, one-third cooked celery) 

Peas 

Braised Tongue in Aspic Jelly 

(with lettuce or cress and French dressing) 

Small Parker House Rolls, Buttered 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 

(Graham, white and entire-wheat bread) 

Frozen Apricots 

(1 can apricots, sifted, 1 quart water, 1 pint 

sugar) 

Lemon Queens 

Coffee 



Chafing Dish Supper 

Sardine E'clairs 

Olives. Celery 

Creamed Chicken on Toast'' 

Cranberry Tarts 

Vanilla Ice Cream in Cups (Junket) 

(with maple syrup and chopped nuts) 

Peanut Butter Macaroons 

Maple Bonbons 

• Coffee 



195 



Lessons in Elementary Cooking 

By Mary Chandler Jones 

Teacher of Cookery in the Public Schools of Brookline, Mass. 

LESSON XIV 

Keeping Fruit For Winter Use 



WHEN the autumn brings the 
fruit harvest and we face the 
long season when all plant life 
sleeps, it is well to consider whether we 
may, in any way, store this abundance 
for use during the days of comparative 
want. Let the pupils tell you, from their 
experience outside the kitchen, what 
will happen to fruit and vegetables left 
to themselves and unused. Ask whether 
the same general result will not also 
occur in fish, meat, milk, eggs, etc. By 
v/hat agency is all this brought about? 

If you have access to a microscope, 
even young pupils will be interested to 
see some of the microscopic plants, called 
''dust-plants," which cause these changes. 
By comparing their conditions for Hfe 
with those of large plants, it is possible 
to make the subject of fermentation 
clear, so far as it is wise to undertake 
its teaching or necessary to follow it in 
its relation to fruit cookery. The pupils 
may tell you that large plants require 
for growth: — 

1. Air. 

2. Sunshine. 

3. Moisture. 

4. Warmth. 

5. Suitable soil. 

For the one-celled, microscopic dust- 
plants must also be provided similar 
conditions, except air and sunshine. 
(Air is unnecessary for them and sun- 
shine will destroy them.) 

The pupils may make a list of the 
means which might be used for preserv- 
ing fruits, by comparing ways in which 
large plants may be killed when they 
are poisonous or injurious. Let them 
give reasons why dust-plants cannot be 
''pulled up" and "thrown away." Why 



may they not be "poisoned"? (Let them 
see that disinfection is a poisoning of 
dust-plants.) In what fruits, already 
studied, has the process of drying been 
used as a means of preserving? What 
is the effect of cold upon vegetation in 
general? Does it really kill or only re- 
tard? Compare the effect of heat. 

After fruit has been boiled, so that 
all the original dust plants in it or upon 
it have been destroyed, it is necessary 
in some way to prevent their reappear- 
ance. Let the class explain the useless- 
ness of boiling tomatoes and letting them 
stand in an open bowl or saucepan upon 
a table, in even the cleanest place. Re- 
call the dust which may be seen floating 
in any ray of sunlight, as well as the 
dust which settles so constantly and 
rapidly upon recently dusted articles of 
furniture. No ordinary air can be free 
from dust or from the dust-plants 
which the dust contains, so all air must 
be excluded from our boiled fruit, in the 
process of preserving or canning. 

Canning is a process of preserving, 
whereby fruits or vegetables are pre- 
served by heat and air-tight sealing, with 
very little sugar or none. The presence 
of sugar helps to keep the fruit and a 
large quantity of it, as we shall see later, 
acts, in itself, as a preservative. In can- 
ning, we begin by preparing the jars, so 
that there may be no living dust-plants 
within them, nor upon the covers. Be- 
fore preparing the jars, fit them with 
nevo rubber-rings and test to see that 
they are air-tight, by filling them with 
water, sealing, wiping absolutely dry and 
inverting. Remember that where water 
can come out, air, with its unfriendly 
accompaniments, can enter. It is well 



196 



LESSONS IN ELEMENTARY COOKING 



197 



to give some general rules for all sorts 
of canning, before giving specific recipes 
for different kinds of fruit. 

General Rules for Canning 

I. See that the jars are in good con- 
dition, that they contain no cracks, or 
splinters of glass in the bottom. 

II. Fit with covers and rubbers and 
test to see that the jars are air-tight. 

III. Wash the jars and covers very 
thoroughly. 

(Why not reverse the order of these 
two rules?) 

IV. Put the jars and covers into a 
pan of cold water to cover them and 
bring the water to the boiling point. Do 
not boil the rubber rings. 

(Why not put the jars at once into 
boiling water? Why must not the rings 
be boiled?) 

V. Prepare the fruit, according to its 
kind. 

VI. Empty the jars when they have 
boiled several minutes, replace the rings 
(dipped in the boiling water) and leave 
the jars standing in boiling water during 
the filling. (Give two reasons for this.) 

VII. Fill the jars to overflowing with 
the boiling fruit. Press out with a sil- 
ver fork, any air bubbles which may be 
caught between the pieces of fruit or 
against the sides of the jar. 

(Why must the fruit be still boiling? 
Why must the jars. overflow? Why must 
the bubbles of air be driven away?) 

VIII. Put on the hot covers, seal at 
once and remove the jars from the heat. 

(Do not cool them too rapidly. Why?) 

IX. Invert the jars to see that they 
are air-tight. Let them stand inverted 
till they are cool. 

X. Wipe the jars, label and put away 
in a cool place. 

To illustrate canning without sugar, 
by boiling and sealing alone, canned to- 
matoes may be prepared. 

Canned Tomatoes 

Wash the tomatoes and remove the 
stems. Scald the tomatoes, to remove 



the skins, then cut into pieces and boil, 
with a very little water, until the to- 
matoes are entirely tender. Skim, if 
necessary, during the boiling. Can by 
the general rule. (The tomatoes may 
be kept whole, but it makes the process 
longer and more uncertain. It seems a 
little difficult for beginners.) 

To illustrate canning with the use of 
sugar, prepare peaches or pears. 

Canned Peaches -; 

Wash the peaches carefully, scald to 
remove the skins and cut out any soft 
or poor places. Cut the peaches into 
pieces of the desired size or cook them 
whole. Let them boil until tender in a 
syrup made with one-half as much sugar 
as water, then can by the general rule. 
The stones may be cooked with the fruit 
and canned with it, if the flavor is de- 
sired. The syrup may be made more or 
less sweet, according to taste and the 
sweetness of the peaches. 

Ginger Pears 

Wash the pears thoroughly and pare 
them. Remove the cores and cut into 
quarters, lengthwise. Prepare a syrup 
as for peaches and cook the pears in it 
until they are tender. Can by the gen- 
eral rule. Pears are apt to be so mild 
in flavor that it is often well to add a 
few slices of lemon and of root ginger, 
during the cooking. These may be 
placed in the jars or, omitted in the pro- 
cess of canning, afterward. 

The process of jelly-making illustrates 
the addiJ;ion of much sugar to fruit juice. 
This is why jellies may mould, if not 
properly protected, over the surface, but 
will not ferment. Either crab-apples or 
grapes may be made into jelly, accord- 
ing to the fruit to be found in the mar- 
ket. After the juice has dripped without 
pressure, to make a "first quality" jelly, 
a second grade, less clear and more like 
jam, may be prepared by pressing 
through some of the pulp, with the re- 
maining juice. 



198 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



General Rules for Jelly 

I. Prepare the glasses and let them 
stand in hot water during the filling. 

II. Prepare the fruit, according to 
the kind. 

1. Grapes, wash carefully and remove 
the stems. 

2. Apples, wash and cut into quar- 
ters. Remove the poor parts. Do not 
pare or core. 

3. Currants, barberries, wash and 
remove the stems. 

4. Choose fruit not too ripe. 

III. Cook the fruit, in enough water 
to prevent burning, until it is very soft. 

IV. Strain the juice through a jelly- 
bag or double cheese-cloth. Measure this 
juice and measure three-quarters as 
much sugar. 

V. Warm the sugar. Let the juice 
boil again and thicken. 

VI. Add the sugar and boil until a 
drop of the syrup will form into a jelly 
on a cold plate. Skim if necessary. 

VII. Pour into the hot tumblers. 
IX. Cool, cover with melted paraffin 



and label. 

What are other forms of uncooked 
preserves, where much sugar is added? 
What are the disadvantages of preserv- 
ing with a large amount of sugar ? What 
sort of kettles or saucepans must be used 
in preserving? What kind of spoons for 
stirring and what forks for trying the 
tenderness of the fruit? If the jar cover 
is not made of glass, with what must it 
be lined? Why must no metal, save sil- 
ver, touch the fruit? 

Consider with the pupils the wisdom, 
desirability and economy of much pre- 
serving. When the fruit and sugar, 
time, labor and heat are reckoned, is it 
best to rival the old-fashioned store- 
closet, with its shelves loaded with deli- 
cacies for the winter? Let the pupils 
see that, in these days of rapid transit 
and cold storage, it is perhaps better to 
enjoy the natural winter fruits which our 
grandmothers knew only as luxuries. A 
well-filled preserve closet, like a neatly 
ordered wood-pile, is a thrifty adjunct, in 
its place, but a foolish encumbrance, if 
unnecessary or out of proportion. 



Novel Ideas from Leading Cafes 

By Julia Davis Chandler 



It often pays to learn how to make 
unusual dishes such as fathers, brothers 
and husbands describe and speak of as 
favorites of theirs at clubs, restaurants 
and hotels. 

To be sure one may eat such and yet 
have quite vague ideas as to the way they 
are made. 

The recipes are not necessarily elab- 
orate nor the ingredients too novel and 
costly for people of only comfortable 
means. On the contrary, sometimes it is 
just the knowing how to combine things 
and the science of simple processes fol- 
lowed in the right order that make a 
dish superior. 

One may learn a great deal by looking 
over the menus of public entertainments 



and the bills of fare from leading res- 
taurants, especially those of large cities. 
Novel suggestions come from this study 
and many of the articles employed come 
canned, bottled, or pickled ; for instance, 
shrimps, chutney, curry powder, guavas, 
truffles, caviar, boned larks, Norwegian 
ptarmigan, etc., etc. 

Consider a bill of fare from New York 
City. Passing over the first ''Hors 
D'Oeuvres De Luxe," including such 
things as truffled pate de foie gras, 
anchovy, etc., also both ''Shellfish'' and 
''Fish," with everything from Rock- 
aways to imported sole a la Normande, 
cold salmon with sauce ravigotte to fried 
scallops with sauce tartare, and crab 
croquettes, then through "Soups," a list 



NOVEL IDEAS FROM LEADING CAFES 



199 



enumerating green turtle with sherry, 
and many other choice kinds, one comes 
to escargots bourguignonne, (snails in 
Burgundian style) ; this explanation in 
parenthesis preventing some American 
patron from ordering what he might not 
relish, since snails are not beloved by 
many outside of France. Astrakhan 
caviar, truffled goose liver, terrapin a 
la Maryland, and finnan haddie, cooked 
with green peppers a la Dewey, suggest 
a good appetite, and its satisfaction. 

And so the list goes on down long 
pages, — those ready to serve and those 
to order only, but from them all can be 
obtained not only ideas for a fine meal, 
but suggestions for something new to 
have at home. 

Suppose we say vol au vent of 
chicken — surely any good kitchen has the 
materials for the pastry for a big open 
pattie, to be filled with chicken-breasts 
in a cream sauce, with some mushrooms 
in it, if liked, if not then some hard- 
boiled eggs, sliced and laid around the 
rim, and some yolks powdered and sifted 
over the top, with garnishes of parsley. 
Here, too, is broiled saddle of rabbit with 
puree of chestnuts; does this not suggest 
the wild woods and a hunter's appetite? 

It takes the best part of a dollar for 
a dish of mushrooms cooked "sous 
cloche" — under a glass, and then, too, 
there are mushrooms saute. Almost any 
summer boarder, villager, or farmer's 
family may have these delicious dishes by 
searching the fields and woods in the 
summer and autumn, for scarcely a walk 
but what yields something for the table, 
when once the edible fungi have been 
safely learned. On the bill of fare are 
cepes et pimentoes a la provencale which 
sounds very novel and foreign, but 
canned cepes are to be had at the leading 
grocers. They are a very meaty mush- 
room, — a variety having pores instead of 
gills beneath the cap; they belong to the 
boleti group of mushrooms. 

American foods are not put aside for 
foreign delicacies; see, here are veal 
chops with estragon. This means veal 



chops sauted and flavored with estragon, 
which w^e, in English, call tarragon, an 
herb easily cultivated from the root. The 
leaves are usually infused in vinegar and 
this vinegar is used for salads etc., even 
for humble boiled beets. Then there is 
fresh goose liver with mushrooms, and 
squab-chickens and broiled guinea hen, 
and chicken livers en brochette, — cooked 
on a skewer with slices of bacon between. 

Beside all the steaks with famous 
sauces and accompaniments, and omelets 
with fillings of many kinds, and favorite 
orders such as the ever-popular club 
sandwiches, hot roast beef sandw^iches, 
Welsh rabbits, — and even prosaic liver 
and bacon, and sour kraut. Looking 
along, we find all the foreign cheeses 
such as Roquefort, Brie, Camembert, 
Port du Salut, Pont TEveque, Gruyere 
and Gorgonzala ; my ! my ! my ! why did 
they leave out good old Dutch Edam? 
What is better than it with Bent's water 
crackers and a cup of coffee, perhaps a 
little damson jam, too! 

Thinking of cheese makes one look at 
salads, and here are novel ones, obtain- 
able only where French gardiners supply 
the place, — chicory, barbe de capucin, en- 
dive, and, oh, what is this? "Meli-Melo," 
a new and puzzling name suggesting 
something between Chinese, Phillipine 
and Esperanto tongues, — possibly it 
means honey and melange, a mixture of 
sweets ? A honey salad, — if that is what 
the name means, — is not an impossible 
tl Ing. Honey is a delicious dressing for 
liesh figs and some berries. And hav- 
ing glanced through the salad list, there 
come desserts that make a boarding- 
house dinner a positive hardship and a 
family meal none too good. Beside all 
the fine plum puddings and Charlotte 
Russe and cakes, here are French pan- 
cakes with guava jelly; or brandied 
cherries, brandied figs or prunes. These 
fruits, ice-cold, with fancy cakes, are 
delicious and especially good for the 
emergency shelf of the house-keeper. 

Figs Mephisto must be deviled, surely 
something spicier than euchred figs! 



200 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



A glass of creme de cassis fits in al- 
most anytime, either as a pick-me-up 
when weary from shopping or journey- 
ing, or as a finish for luncheon with thin 
crackers and cakes. It is a cordial of 
black currants which can be made any- 
where that black currants grow; but a 
great deal of it is made in France, and 
in Dijon it is claimed that people are ex- 
pert in making the best. 

On hsts such as this we are consider- 
ing there are fancy ices such as biscuit 
tortoni, nesselrode pudding, and others, 
such as are usually made by professional 
hands, but many of the fancy coupes or 
cups may be prepared at home by order- 
ing vanilla ice cream and making fancy 
sauces which convert it into the above 
mentioned cups or sundaes; whipped 
cream, macaroons, nut meats, marrons, 
brandied fruits, etc., are called for often, 
although simple chocolate sauce, or 
sherry sauce, are very acceptable. 

Surely the above suggestions are 
sufficient to make even an ambitious 
hostess, who is well supplied with funds, 
keep busy for a time thinking over com- 
binations, and making out a list of sup- 
plies. 

Always remember, when reading 
recipes, that what is a luxury in one place 
may not be in another, for while some 
readers of cookery magazines are look- 
ing out upon Vermont snow banks, and 
the henhouses are hanging with icicles 
and no eggs in evidence, others may be 
eating strawberries in Florida and have 
plenty of eggs to make an angel cake. 



Artichokes, the globe or French arti- 
choke, not the tubers, are a costly luxury 
in some cities, while in the South they 
grow freely and are mentioned in tha 
U. S. Army Cookery Book. In the 
canned form they are less expensive, — 
just the hearts, the chocest part, being 
canned. Shrimps are fifty cents a pound 
in some markets, in winter, while along 
the Gulf of Mexico one may catch them 
freely from Mobile to New Orleans. 
Even a poor laborer or hardworked 
farmer may find a tortoise and so have 
a rich snapper soup almost as fine as 
terrapin, and many a country lad secures 
frog's legs, a dish much esteemed by 
epicures. 

Only think, and look about you, and 
ideas in plenty will flow in to your mind, 
so that you will have no difficulty not 
only in feeding the brute, but in pleasing 
him as well with what he has to eat, 
especially if he provides the wherewithal, 
— a big // sometimes. A capable house- 
keeper knows, however, that lux- 
uries are sometimes true economies. 
And by taking a personal interest 
in the kitchen she can save enough 
from being wasted to buy season- 
ings and condiments from abroad, 
the delicacies that give style to her din- 
ners ; and, by studying to knozu how, she 
can transform simple things into choice 
dishes. The range of gastronomic lore 
is great ; throw zest into the work, put 
on your thinking cap before you don an. 
apron and the results will repay you. 




The Veranda Girls 



By Virginia Church 

Part IL 

In Which T)oll Fallows Gives a Colonial Luncheon 



I KNEW as soon as we received the 
cards, that Doll was planning a 
costume luncheon because at col- 
lege she was always quite daffy about 
"dressing up." My card read : — 

"TO MISTRESS KATHERIXE CARTER. 

GREETINGS. 

At the home of Mistress Dorothy Fallows, 
on ye Lakewood Road, of ye Highlands of 
Newton, on Wednesday ye tenth day of Octo- 
ber at one of ye houre of ye clocke, there 
wille be served to ye faire and daintie mis- 
tresses of ye Verandar Club, a luncheon to 
which Miss Katherine Carter is right heartily 
invited." 

• I tore to the telephone and, w^hen 
central told me the line was ''busy," 
I knew Chrys or Sue had beat me to 
it. When I did get Doll, she said, 
"Yes," we were please to dress the 
part, not to go to a lot of trouble, 
of course. At which I grew sarcastic 
and said, "oh no, certainly not, just 
work ourselves to death for the next 
week and then parade through the 
streets looking like an opera troupe 
hitting the tracks." Then Doll, in that 
honeyed tone that she uses, said that, of 
course, if it was too much trouble, we 
mustn't think of it, but that Chrysta- 
belle had promised to call for us in 
her automobile and we'd be wrapped 
up in our coats and scarfs and things. 
I snapped her off with, "nobody said 
anything about trouble, you idiot," 
hung up the phone, and went to con- 
sult mother. She sent me to the li- 
brary for a book on Colonial costumes 
and by the use of two old pink or- 
gandies that I had discarded with the 
approach of Fall, we copied one of the 
pictures very accurately, so that I had 
a rather effective dress. 

Sue made hers out of green tarleton 
and mother helped her drape it. Sue 



is all curls and dimples and fluff and 
looked like a Christmas doll or one 
of the little shepherd figures they stick 
on cakes at holiday time. When Chrys 
came by for us, we made her get out 
and unwrap, so mother could see her 
and, of course, as we expected, her 
costume was the pink of perfection. 
I don't mean it was pink, — it w-as blue 
satin and white satin, embroidered 
in pearls, and she wore white satin 
slippers with blue heels, and pearls 
woven in her hair. She had rented 
it, — the costume, not the hair — from a 
fancy-dress man in Boston, and it was 
the most goreous thing ever. We all 
had our hair puffed and powdered and 
wore those fasinating little patches on 
our painted cheeks. 

I confess right here I felt very much 
like a goat and quite out of my ele- 
ment. I'm too rawboned and angular 
to effect my lady graceful. It's 
sweaters and short skirts for mine. I 
was in mortal terror all day for fear 
the hoops would make me think I was 
in a circus and I'd jump through. I 
was rather proud of myself that I came 
out of the ordeal as well as I did. 
There were only a few trailing threadb 
of organdie to mark any wreckage. 
Chrys hurried us off and the big auto 
whizzed us to our destination. 

Doll's house, as I said before, is a 
beautiful old-fashioned home, sitting 
far back from the street, almost com- 
pletely hidden by green trees. Doll 
was in the hall to greet us, and, honest, 
a luncheon isn't supposed to be a 
solemn affair, but even I w^as sub- 
dued by the dim, quiet house and our 
spirit-like hostess. It seemed as 
though she must have stepped down out 
of one of the portraits that lost them- 
selves in the dark backgrounds on the 



202 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



wall. She was in grey satin, not the 
glarey modern stuff, but a rich satin 
that had been mellowed by age. It 
didn't take an archaeologist to tell that 
she was the real article, dress, lac^, 
high-comb and all. We were stru;:k 
dumb for so long that Doll, after she 
had given herself the satisfaction of 
the effect she had created, burst out 
laughing and broke the spell. 

I pummeled her to assure myself of 
her reality and we laid off our wraps 
amid the greatest hilarity and ex- 
change of compliments. We went 
right in to dinner for, in ye olden days, 
it was dinner, not lunch, and here again 
we became animated exclamation 
points. The polished mahogany, the 
Sheffield plate and the precious blue 
china, hundreds of years old, and be- 
cause they didn't have ''courses" in 
colonial days, all the dinner was on the 
table at once. 

And what a dinner! We proceeded 
to make gourmands of ourselves 
forthwith and an ambulance would 
have been a more fitting vehicle to 
carry us home than a jouncing automo- 
bile. We didn't have menus, of course, 
but I'll try to give you some concep- 
tion of the abundance, and one or two 
recipes that Doll, at my request, 
copied afterward. 

There was fried chicken, Maryland 
— that means chicken floured lightly 
and fried in butter to a crisp brown. 
There was cream gravy, made with 
real cream. There was cold, boiled 
Smithfield ham, carameled sweet po- 
tatoes, southern batter bread, hot 
Sally Lunn, biscuits, all kinds of jellies 
and pickles. In the center of the table 
was a huge dish of fruit, flanked on 
either side by two enormous cakes. 
For dessert we had mince pie, the 
luscious, thick, spicy kind, frozen egg- 
nog and cake. 

The recipes that were different from 
any I'd ever heard of and quite too 
good to be missed, were : 



Southern Batter Bread 

Scald two cups of white corn meal, two 
and one-half cups of boiling water. Al- 
low to cool.. Mix together the yolks cf. 
two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter, one teaspoonful of salt, tw^o 
cups of butter-milk into which has 
been dissolved a teaspoonful of soda. 
Stir this into the corn meal, and fold 
in the stiff-beaten whites and bake in 
a moderate oven forty minutes. 

Carameled Sweet Potatoes 

The s\veet potatoes are first boiled, 
then peeled and sliced lengthwise,, and 
put into a baking pan with half a cup 
of water. On each slice put a small 
piece of butter and sprinkle a generous 
supply of brown sugar over the whole. 
Bake until well browned. 

Sweet Stuffed Cucumber Pickle 

Take large cucumbers from the 
brine, soak, boil in water and when 
cold, slit down one side and remove 
the seeds. Stuff wath the following 
mixture : one pound of seeded and 
chopped raisins, one pound of chopped 
citron, one pound of currants, two 
tablespoonfuls of cloves, six table- 
spoonfuls of wdiite mustard, one table- 
spoonful, each, of cinnamon, mixed 
spice and nutmeg. 

Frozen Egg Xogg 

Heat two cups of cream over hot 
w^ater. Beat the yolks of four to six 
eggs, into which stir one cup of sugar 
and a pinch of salt. Stir the cream 
into this gradually, allowing it to re- 
main over the hot water until it thick- 
ens ever so slightly; strain into a cold 
dish. AVhen the mixture is cold stir 
in a pint of cream, pour into freezer 
and freeze. AVhen half frozen add one- 
third a cup of good brandy and two- 
thirds a cup of sherry and continue to 
freeze until stiff. 

Continued on Page XX 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 

paid for at reasonable rates. 



Where to Shirk 

STATISTICS show that only ten per 
cent of the housekeepers of this 
country employ help. The other ninety per 
cent carry the burden of the daily round 
of household work, without outside assist- 
ance. Statistics do not show how many 
women of this ninety per cent are wear- 
ing themselves out over the non-essen- 
tials, or how many are endangering the 
health and happiness of their families 
by leaving undone things which should 
be done. 

There is a happy medium between 
over-conscientiousness and shiftlessness. 
As one wise mother used to say to her 
daughters, "learn to shirk." That is the 
only way a housekeeper can get the best 
out of life. 

How many minutes each day do you 
waste wiping dishes ? Either minutes 
of your own, or of one you employ, if 
you are one of the favored ten per cent? 
Suppose it is only ten minutes per meal, 
—a low estimate for an average-sized 
family, and the average rate of speed at 
which most housework is done. Even 
at this low estimate, in the course of one 
year you have used up one hundred and 
eighty-two and one-half hours ! 

What might you not have done with 
that hundred and eighty-two and one- 
half hours ! You might have had a half 
hour each day for rest and reading, and 
been fresher and happier when your 
famHy came together at night. You 
might have spent the time in study and 
had something added to your store of 



thoughts. Or if your work is so system- 
atized that you already have time for 
rest and study, how much help you might 
have given others, in that half hour each 
day. 

Don't wipe dishes ! Wash in hot soapy 
water — put in dish drainer, each dish as 
nearly upright as possible, and pour hot 
water over them to rinse thoroughly (or 
spraying with hot water is better) Polish 
the glasses and silver and put them 
away. Cover the rest of the dishes with 
a clean tea towel and set aside on the 
drain board, and before the rest of your 
morning work is done the dishes will 
be dry. 

Dish drainers with a compartment for 
silver can be purchased. One house- 
keeper wired an ordinary drainer so that 
it had compartments for plates, cups, 
etc., and each dish was held in such a 
position that it could be easily and 
thoroughly rinsed with hot water poured 
or sprayed over it. If one drainer Vv'ill 
not hold all the family dishes, use two 
drainers. 

Don't wipe dishes ! Try this plan 
and be richer by one hundred and eighty- 
two and one-half hours per year. e. b. r. 



T 



HERE is a very good fashion here 
southern California of using 



m 



drinking water that has been cooled on- 
ly by evaporation. I daresay it was 
borrowed from Mexico where it is uni- 
versally prevalent. Indeed, the jars for 
holding the water keep their Spanish 
name "olla." They are of various sizes 



203 



204 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



and shapes, from the coarse jug with its 
mouth capped by a gourd drinking-cup, 
such as workmen have in shop or field, 
to the fine ware and graceful shape used 
in the homes of the well-to-do. 

There is another pretty custom here, 
though unfortunately it could never come 
into vogue, however persuasively set 
forth. During the weeks that orange trees 
are in blossom, the flowers are used for 
afternoon tea. The tea is made as usual, 
preferably of the lighter brands of green 
tea — not too strong — and it is poured 
hot on the flowers dropped into a cup. 
The strong but delicious perfume is a 
surprise and delight. A thin slice of 
cumquat or even of loquat is sometimes 
used, but the real tea-lover rather dis- 
dains these intrusions. It is not at all 
bad to make a tea of the blossoms them- 
selves, as the Chinese do, letting two 
to four blossoms steep a few minutes in 
a covered cup of hot water. It will be 
welcomed by those whose nerves do not 
allow them to take tea. Perhaps some- 
day we shall be wise enough to take a 
lesson from our French and other 
friends who make such good use of 
linden blossoms and of sweet herbs. 

A. F. c. 



A RECIPE for Tutti-Frutti was 
called for. The only recipe avail- 
able to us was sent in with the informa- 
tion that we had not tried it, but that it 
had given satisfaction to several who 
had used it. The following note from 
the subscriber who asked for the recipe 
is printed here in connection with the 
original recipe, that those who wish may 
note the changes necessary to bring 
about satisfactory results. — Ed. 

Tutti Frutti 

Put one pint (?) of brandy into a 
stone jar and add the various fruits as 
they come into the market; to each 
quart of fruit add the same quantity 
of sugar, and stir the mixture each* 
morning until all the fruit has been add- 



ed. Raspberries, (?) strawberries, apri- 
cots, peaches, cherries and pine-apples 
are the best to use. 

As a contribution towards your 
Tutti-Frutti information I would say : 
one pint of brandy did not prove suffi- 
cient, so to save it we added another 
pint. Peaches and bananas, also, will not 
keep, otherwise our jar is full of the 
most delicious and perfectly beautiful,, 
clear, red syrup and well preserved fruit. 
Currants, also, are not good, as the seeds 
get through the syrup and are like little 
pieces of wood. 

IN regard to chocolate icing w^hich. 
I learned to make from directions 
given in this magazine, I have maae one 
or tw^o discoveries, w^hich are not only 
labor-saving but quality-improvmg. For 
a small cake I use one cup of granulated 
sugar, one- fourth a cup of hot water, 
in which one-eighth a teaspoonful 
of cream of tarter has been dissolved,, 
and two tablespoonfuls of grated, bitter 
chocolate. Put all these in a stew-pan 
and mix well. Then allow the ingred- 
ients to boil, without stirring, until the. 
syrup spins a thread three inches long. 
Have the white of an tgg well-beaten 
and pour the hot syrup in a thin stream 
upon it, beating continuously all the 
time. If the stew-pan is elevated some 
little distance above the bowl containing 
the ^gg, the syrup will be sufficiently 
cooled so as not to cook the ^gg. If 
the icing is a little slow in thickening, 
place the bowl which contains it in a. 
vessel of cold water, and keep on beat- 
ing. This will soon bring it to the de- 
sired consistency. Now is the time to- 
add one-fourth a teaspoonful of vanilla, 
as the lowered temperature of the icing 
will not cause the delicate flavor to 
evaporate. Before icing the cake, have 
a cup of cold water at hand, into which 
the knife-blade should be dipped before 
each application. If the icing thickens 
too much before all is put on the cake, 
beat into the remainder a tespoonful 
or two of cold water until thin enough tO' 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



205 



apply. If icing looks rough and a smooth 
appearance is desired, the wet knife- 
blade will remove all unevenness. 

This icing is not only of a cheese-like 
consistency like good fudge, but it re- 
mains moist for several days and does 
not crack or break off when the cake is 
cut. 

Note : Probably two rounding tablespoon- 
fuls of chocolate are used. After the frosting 
has been beaten until cool enough to use, 
pour it over the cake, then with a silver 
knife, return what runs off to the pdes of 
the cake, but do not disturb the top. If the 
frosting is undisturbed, it will present a 
glossy appearance. If the frosting on the 
sides is manipulated two or three times as 
may be necessary, it will lose its glossiness. 
This will not, however, change the texture or 
the taste of the icing. — Editor. 



A New Filling for a Holiday Cake 

Allow one cup of raisins to simmer 
gently for an hour or more, or until per- 
fectly tender, then drain until free from 
water. Bake a two-layer cake ; ice the 
lower layer with chocolate frosting, then 
cover it with the cooked raisins. Next, 
ice the bottom of the second cake and 
place it upon the raisin-covered first 
one. Finish by icing the top and sides of 
all the cake. When the cake is cut, 
there is a jelly-like raisin filling between 
two layers of chocolate, which holds to- 
gether without any trouble. 

The flavor of the raisin filling may be 
varied by adding one tablespoonful of 
lemon juice or two tablespoonfuls of 
grape juice to them, as they simmer. 
Some like the addition of chopped pe- 
cans or almonds, added to the raisins be- 
fore spreading on the cake. 

E. M. V. H. 

* * # 

A Fishing Party 

IT is always a pleasant occasion to 
gather a company and talk over the 
good times, past and present. For a 
centerpiece for such an occasion get a 
large roasting pan — the larger the better 
— and also the shallower it is, the more 
easily it is covered. Have vines and 



flowers around the edges to take on the 
appearance of a lake. Rocks may be at- 
tractively arranged, with mud turtles and 
fishermen sitting on them. Have several 
tiny boats on the water and dolls dressed 
as fishermen in the boats and on the 
banks. The dolls may be labelled, thus 
furnishing much amusement. For in- 
stance, have one unsuccessful fisherman 
of the crowd represented as trying to 
land a large fish and have beside him 
a number of the hugest kind of fishes. 
Have one fisherman catching crabs and 
tin cans, etc., etc. 

Before partaking of the menu, serve 
fish-shaped cards on which is written 
one of the following conundrums, and 
at the table have similar fish-shaped 
cards bearing the answers. Or this may 
be used as a contest later in the even- 
ing. 

1. What fish is found in every band? 
(Drum.) 

2. What fish is served with meats? 
(Jelly.) 

3. What fish is worn by officers in 
the army? (Sword.) 

4. What fish is a household pet? 
(Cat) 

5. What fish forms a resting place 
for birds? (Perch.) 

6 What fish accompanies the hunter? 
(Hound.) 

7. What fish represents the earth? 
(Globe.) 

8. What fish is not on the planet? 
(Moon.) 

9. What fish is found among roy- 
alty? (King.) 

10. What fish guides the ships? 
(Pilot.) 

11. What fish was once used as a 
military weapon? (Pike.) 

12. What fish is a man's solace? 
(Pipe.) 

13. What fish is a destroyer of ships? 
(Torpedo.) 

14. What fish is a good sailor? 
(Skipper.) 

15. What fish is prominent in winter 
sports? (Skate.) 



206 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



17. What fish is immortal? (Sole.) 
An interesting contest for amusement 
some evening is "a variety of Teas." 
Tell the guests that by removing the 
first letters of the following words other 
words will be formed. 

1. A symbol of grief which decapi- 
tated leaves a part of the body. (Tear — 
ear.) 

2. To impart knowledge and a syn- 
onym for everyone, two or more. 
(Teach — each.) 

3. To deride, when cut off leaves a 
near relative. (Taunt — aunt.) 

4. A narrative when decapitated 
leaves a drink. (Tale — ale.) 

5. A misstep and a place torn. (Trip 
—rip.) 

6. Three united, and a coffee. 
(Trio— Rio.) 

7. A correct statement and a girl's 
name. (Truth — Ruth.) 

8. A beaten path and a display. 
(Track — rack.) 

9. A village and a possessorship. 
Town — own.) 

10. To trail and storm. (Train — 
rain.) 

11. To ensnare and a gentle knock. 
(Trap — rap.) 

12. A change of direction and a 
small utensil. (Turn — urn.) 

13. A quick jerk and an uncanny per- 
sonage. (Twitch — witch.) 

14. To twist and a beverage. (Twine 
— wine.) 

15. To upbraid and cleverness. 
(Twit — wit.) 

16. To work and a lubricant. (Toil — 

oil.) H. H. H. 

* * * 

Magazine Bazaar 

THE ''Magazine Bazaar" recently 
given is worth describing. The 
placards announcing it, which 
were displayed in various public places, 
were made to imitate magazine covers. 
The door leading to the rooms was 
decorated to represent 

Current Literature, 



which gave an idea of w^hat was inside. 
A portiere leading to the dining room, 
where a chicken dinner was served, was 
painted on unbleached cotton in exact 
imitation of The Boston Cooking School 
Magazine. 

Each booth represented a magazine, 
and something in keeping with the title 
was oiTered for sale. I will give an out- 
line of the wares, but many others could 
be added. 

Home Needlework — All kinds of 
fancy work and embroidery. 

St. Nicholas — A real Santa Claus 
was on duty here and sold holly and 
other Christmas greens, colored tissue 
papers and ribbon, Xmas seals, tags and 
labels. 

Youth's Companion — In the interest 
of the children, toys, dolls, picture books, 
games, etc.. were sold. 

Black Cat — The Black Cat brand 
of hosiery was sold here and a real witch 
(as far as costume went) presided over 
a huge cauldron which was really a grab- 
bag. 

Travel — Post cards, traveling cases, 
traveling clocks and other articles used 
for going away were sold here. 

Country Life in America — Cut 
flowers. potted plants and ferns, 
vegetables, buttermilk, cottage cheese, 
and seeds. 

Woman's Home Companion — Aprons, 
from small fancy affairs to huge 
kitchen aprons. 

Holland's Magazine sold tulip bulbs 
and ser\xd Dutch cocoa in Delft blue 
cups. 

Smart Set — Cotillion and dinner 
favors, dinner cards, luncheon novelties, 
and candle shades. 

The side issues were profitable * a 
small boy was dressed as a "sandwich 
man" between copies of The American 
Boy and sold pop corn. 

''A Modern Priscilla" sold various 
linen articles, which were displayed on 
an old-fashioned spinning wheel. 

At each booth subscriptions to the 
various magazines were solicited. 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating- 
to recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answers by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit 81.00. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, editor, Boston Cooklstg-School Magazine, 372 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. 



Query 1763. — •"For what purposes may a 
spatula be used? " 

Uses of a Spatula 
It would not be easy to enumerate 
all the uses to which a spatula may be 
put while cooking. It is often used for 
mixing purposes, but to us this does 
not seem a fit use on account of its 
flexibility, which is one of the chief 
characteristics of a good spatula. A 
spatula is invaluable in scraping cake 
and similar mixtures, and whites of eggs, 
or cream, beaten firm, from the mixing 
or other bowl ; is Hfting cookies or 
doughnuts from the board, and cookies 
from the baking pan ; in turning pota- 
to or fish cakes, sauted in a small quan- 
tity of fat ; in turning griddle cakes ; 
in rolling and turning out an omelet; 
and in shaping and covering croquettes. 



Query 1764.— "Recipe for making Cranberry 
Jelly." 

Cranberry Jelly 

Cook one quart of cranberries and 
one cup of boiling water, in a covered 
dish, over a quick fire, until the skins 
burst. It will take six or eight minutes, 
and the cover must be lifted several 
times, to avoid the ''boiling over" of the 
fruit. Set a gravy strainer into the top 
of a deep dish — part of a double boiler 
is appropriate — into which it fits, and 
with a wooden pestle press the pulp 
through the strainer, leaving the skins. 
Into the pulp stir two cups of sugar, and 
continue to stir until the sugar is 
melted, then pour into a dish. 



Query 1765. — "Recipe for Aspic Jelly, also 
for Coffee Cake or Cinnamon Bun." 

Regarding Aspic Jelly 

Aspic jelly is made from clarified meat 
broth soHdified somewhat w^ith gelatine. 
A two-ounce package of gelatine, soft- 
end in a cup of cold water, is used 
to each five cups of broth. Consomme, 
having been clarified, and water with 
meat extract being transparent, can be 
made into aspic by simply the addition 
of gelatine. Meat broths must be 
flavored with vegetables, sometimes with 
wine, freed from fat and clarified with 
whites and crushed shells of eggs. Aspic 
made from chicken or veal is of a very 
delicate color. Consomme gives a dark- 
er color and beef broth the darkest of 
all. 

Gelatine in Aspic Jelly 

The general rule for aspic jelly is a 
two ounce package of gelatine softened 
in one cup of cold water for each five 
cups of broth. This gives a jelly firm 
enough to hold whole eggs, slices of 
tongue or chicken or similar solid sub- 
stances in an upright position after un- 
molding. It is also firm enough for 
croutons. But, save for some special 
dish, when looks are more desirable than 
gustatory properties, a jelly that will not 
"hold its shape" is far more desirable. 
Aspic jelly in all forms should be served 
very cold. As flavors are apparently 
lessened by the chilling process ; all 
broths used for aspic should be strong- 



207 



208 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



ly flavored with the foundation article 
or such vegetable or wine or herb as is 
desired in the particular case in ques- 
tion. The qualities of a good aspic jelly 
are strength of flavor, transparency, and 
delicacy, as opposed to solidity. Of 
course, when garnishing with aspic tri- 
angels or other shapes, soHdity is indis- 
pensable. 

RECIPES 
Aspic Jelly from Consomme 

5 cups of cleared con- j atir>^ 

somme ^ to 1 whole cup of 

1 to 2 ounces of gel- I cold water 

The quantity of gelatine to be used 
depends on the solidity desired in the 
finished product. Proportion the water 
to the gelatine taken. Let the gelatine 
stand in the cold water until the water 
has been absorbed, then pour on the con- 
somme, heated to the boiling point, and 
the mixture is finished. 

Aspic Jelly from Uncleared Stock 

5 cups of broth freed ^ to 1 whole cup of 

of fat cold water 

1 to 2 ounces of gel- 3 whites of eggs 

atine I Several shells of eggs 

Soften the gelatine in the cold water. 
Beat the whites of eggs slightly. Crush 
the shells. Mix the whites, shells and 
softened gelatine with the stock, and stir 
constantly over the fire until the boil- 
ing point is reached. Let boil five 
minutes. Draw to a cooler part of the 
range to settle, then strain and it is 
ready to use. The thin yellow peel of 
a lemon may be added with the other 
ingredients, or wine may be added, after 
clearing. 

Delicate Chicken Aspic 

Clean a chicken about a year old ; 
separate into joints, wash carefully, 
cover with cold water and heat quickly 
to the boiling point, then let simmer 
until tender. Strain off the broth — 
through a napkin. Season with salt and 
■oepper and it is ready to set aside to 



chill and use. Two stalks of celery 
and an onion may be cooked with the 
chicken if desired. This variety of aspic 
is particularly good to serve around any 
cold dish in which chicken or veal are 
used. 

Coffee Cake 



1 cup of scalded milk 
1 cake of compressed 
yeast mixed in I 
cup of water or 
^ a cup of liquid 

\^east 
Flour for a sponge 
h a cup of melted 



shortening 
I a cup of sugar 
i a teaspoonful of 

salt 
1 or 2 eggs 
Grating of lemon rind 
Flour 
Sugar and cinnamon 



Make a sponge of milk, yeast and 
flour as needed; when Hght add the 
other ingredients with flour to make a 
soft dough. Knead and set aside to be- 
come doubled in bulk. Turn upside 
down on a board lightly floured, and roll 
to fit a shallow pan. When again light, 
brush over with milk, or beaten tgg, 
diluted with milk, sprinkle generously 
with sugar and cinnamon, mixed, and 
bake in a quick oven. 



Query 1776. — "Recipe for Orange Marma- 
lade that is not bitter as is some of the 
imported varieties. Also a recipe for Sauce 
Tartare used for Fish." 

Orange ]Marmalade 

Take one dozen oranges and four 
lemons ; cut each fruit in quarters and 
slice the quarters through pulp and rind 
as thin as possible, discarding all seeds. 
Weigh the prepared fruit, and to each 
pound add three pints of cold water. 
Set aside for twenty-four hours. Let 
boil gently until the rind is perfectly 
tender (it will take six or more hours), 
then set aside until the next day. Weigh 
the material and to each pound add one 
pound of sugar. Let cook until it 
thickens enough to hold up the peel. The 
mixture will thicken still more on cool- 
ing and care must be taken not to cook 
it too much. Stir occasionally, while 
cooking, to avoid burning. Store in jars. 
With a small hard wood board upon 
which to rest the fruit and a thin, sharp 
knife, the slicing is quickly done. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





The ones who rule and run our households are 
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Christmas time. Their lives are full of cares and 
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^ provide three meals a day, 365 days in the year, with variety to 
Hj suit all tastes, just try it. Here are some suitable gifts: 




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A splendid gift. Sure to give pleasure and satisfaction, 
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Bound in washable cloth, $2.00; by mail $2.20 

Vegetable Cookery and Meat 
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Mrs. Rorer's latest book. This will charm you by 
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Here's a book to exploit economy in living and allow 
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In cloth, $1.50; by mail $1.62 

Mrs. Rorer's 
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Everything easily understood and absolutely sure. 
In washable cloth, $1.75 

Here's a Gift for Lltde Monev 



Four of Mrs. Rorer'' 
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" Quick Sou^ 
put up in a 



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Ways vor^.Q^'P^. 



.,>T, 



ind 




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MRS. RORER'S 
COOK BOOK 




, ail bov.. stores or departmcte^, »lor " c us 

Arnola & Company, 42C Sm-om Strc :, rmiadelphia 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitu^: 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

Vol. XVI DECEMBER, 1911 No. S 



CONTENTS FOR DECEMBER 

PAGE 

BUFFET SUPPERS FOR CHRISTMAS 209 

THE LIBRARY (Illustrated) Mary H. Northend 211 

THE GAME OF THE YULE-LOG . . Jean Wilde Hadley 215 

A LETTER TO SANTA GLAUS ..... Alix Thorn 217 

CHRISTMAS CHARM Kate Gannett Wells 221 

THE UBIQUITY OF COMMON SENSE 

Frances Campbell Sparhawk 223 

CHRISTMAS AND ITS SIGNIFICANCE . Edith C. Lane 225 

THE CHRISTMAS FERN L. M. Thornton 226 

THE KAISER'S KITCHEN Helen Frost 227 

MODERN VERSUS ANCIENT TABLES, Julia Davis Chandler 229 

HAPPINESS Stokeley S. Fisher 229 

EDITORIALS 230 

SEASONABLE RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone engravings 

of prepared dishes) Janet M. Hill 233 

MENUS FOR CHRISTMAS HOLIDAYS ..." " '' 241 

MENUS INEXPENSIVE FOR INSTITUTIONS *' '* '' 242 

MENUS FOR A WEEK IN DECEMBER . " " '/ 243 

LESSONS IN ELEMENTARY COOKING, Mary Chandler Jones 244 

THE BREAKFAST RUT Anna Guilbert Mahon 247 

A PLEA FOR THE HOSPITAL DIETITIAN, Alice E. Urquhart 248 

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 251 

Dispensing Hospitality — Nantucket Chowder — Meat Sticks or Skewers — The 
Newest Candies — Mother's Lemon Pie, etc. 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 255 

NEW BOOKS XVI 

MISCELLANEOUS". XVIII 



$1.00 A YE4R Published Ten Times a Year 1^ )c. A COPY 

Four Years' Sub s c riptj|/?^.r, STcS.OO 

Entered at Boston post-office as sfCwduU-class matter. CopyriiJht. 1911, by 

THE BOSTON COQKinO SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY 
372 BOYLSTON STREET BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



Please Renew on Receipt of the Colored Blank Enclosed for that Purpose 

ii 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Heres to MoiKer and- 

Cottolerie 




<< 



The kind that Mother used to Make" 




Modern mothers and wise-acre cooks use Cottolene, 
instead of butter or lard, for frying and shortening. The 
reason is plain as the nose on your face. 

Cottolene is a vegetable product, made from purest, 
refined cotton oil. It contains no hog fat or impurities, 
is made in a careful, cleanly manner, never sold in bulk, 
its purity and freshness are absolutely guaranteed, and 
it makes food which is free from grease and indigestion. 

Imitations of Cottolene are thicker than blackberries 
in season, so be sure to ask for and take only Cottolene, 
the original pure food shortening. It is economical 
because it goes one-third farther. 

Made only by 
THE N. K. FAIRBANK COMPANY 

Shortens Your Bread — Lengthens Your Life 

Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



YOUR CHOICE 

If you have poorly flavored food it is your 
ovs^n fault ; you can have the best spices and 
flavoring extracts by insisting upon having 




In most places you have to pay just as much 
for poor stuff as you would for Slade's. 
Don't blame the grocer, for if you are not 
particular, why should he care? 

Asl^ for Slade's and see that what ^ou get 
hears the name of 

D. & L. SLADE CO., BOSTON 



MAKE YOUR OWN 
CHRISTMAS CANDIES 

Christmas and the hoHday season are not com- 
plete without lots of good wholesome candy. 

If you make it yourself you know that it is pure 
and clean. Even if you have always had poor luck 
before, you can now make wonderfully delicious 
and tempting candies by following our rnethod. 

We Teach You 
How To Be Successful 

Think how much genuine pleasure you could 
enjoy in being able to make not only your own 
favorite candies but also all the different kinds 
sold in the most exclusive confectionery shops. 

Our direct ofts and special 
Thermometer make failure 
impossible. We teach you 
how to make bon-bons, fudges, 
wafers, kisses, caramels, taf- 
fies, brittles, jellies, creams 
and dozens of other delicious 
candies. 

You Can Make Money 
Selling Home-made Candy (% ^^rv 

Why not sell a little home- ^*--J 

made candy in your spare time? Lots of people 
are making growing incomes this way — 
even men are learning how to make 
candy and money by our method. 

Write at once for our Free Booklet ♦'The 
[secret of Successful Candy Making." 

The Home Candy Makers 
220 Bar Street, Canton. Ohio 





INDEX FOR DECEMBER page 

A Letter to Santa Claus 217 

A Plea for the Hospital Dietitian . . 248 

Buffet Suppers for Christmas . . . 209 

Christmas Charm 221 

Christmas and Its Significance . . . 225 

Editorials 230 

Happiness 229 

Home Ideas and Economies .... 251 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking . . . 244 

Menus 241-243 

Modern Versus Ancient Tables . . . 229 

The Breakfast Rut 247 

The Christmas Fern . 226 

The Game of the Yule-Log .... 215 

The Kaiser's Kitchen 227 

The Library, 111 211 

The Ubiquity of Common Sense . . . 223 

Seasonable Recipes : 

Apples, Stuffed, in Jelly, 111 237 

Bavarian Cream, Caramel . ... . 236 

Beef, Fillet of. Bouquet Style, 111. . 233 

Butter, Cocoanut 238 

Cake, Poinsettia with Decorated Icing 239 

Cake. Spanish, 111 240 

Caramels, Opera Coffee 240 

Caramels, Coffee, Chocolate Dipped . 240 

Caramels, Opera Chocolate .... 240 

Dressing, Lettuce and Roquefort Salad 237 

Figs, with Cream Cheese Glace, 111. . 237 

Frosting, Mocha 236 

Gateau St. Emilion. Ill 238 

Jelly Sauce, Brown Currant . . . 235 

Pie, Mince, with Apple ]\Ieringue, 111. 238 

Potato, flashed. Marquise Style . . 234 

Pudding, Steamed Carrot, 111. . . . 235 

Salad, Christmas, 111 238 

Sauce, Bernaise 234 

Soup, Celery 22i2> 

Soup, Tapioca 233 

Stuffing, Potato for Roast Goose . . 234 

Timbales, Venison 234 

Queries and Answers : 

Biscuit, Sour Milk 256 

Cake, Chocolate Layer, with White 

Icing 256 

Coupes, Pineapple, Caramel Nut, Thais, 

Melba, etc 255 

Ice Cream, Vanilla, with Junket . . 255 

Pastry for one open^e 256 

Pudding, English Plum, with Brandy 

Sauce 256 

Bread, Gluten x 

Bread, Points in Good x 

Flour, Bread and Pastry x 

Hash, Corned Beef xiv 

Salad, Endive, Lettuce, Fruit, White 

Fish xii 

Scrapple, Philadelphia x 

Rolls. Kaiser xiv 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
iv 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




The Dutch Twins 

By Lucy Fitch Perkins 

An amusing and entertaining story of the everyday life of 
two little Dutch Twins. It will give'the child much enjoy- 
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Kittens and Cats 

By Eulalie Osgood Grover 

A charming story for little ones by the author of the 
"Sunbonnet Babies" series. Illustrated. 75 cents net. 
Postpaid 87 cents. 



The Enchanted Mountain 

By Eliza Orne White 

The surprising and entertaining experiences of four 
children and their parents on the Enchanted Mountain. 

Illustrated. $1.00. 



The Champion of the Regiment 

By Everett T. Tomlinson 

Thrillino- experiences and adventures at the Siege of Yorktown of Noah Dare, whom young readers know so well. 
It will give keen pleasure as well as historical information to every healthy-minded youngster. Illustrated. $1.50. 



Two Boys in 
a Gyrocar 

By K. Kenneth-Brown 

An exciting story of how two boys win 
a New York to Paris race in a gyroscope 
motor car of their own invention. Illus- 
trated. $1.20 net. Postpaid $1.32. 

The Indian Book 

By W. J. Hopkins 

A collection of delightful Indian stories 
by the author of the " Sandman " tales. 
Illustrated $1.25 net. Postpaid $1.41. 




The Jester of 
St. Timothy^s 

By Arthur S, Pier 

The perplexities and trials of a new 
master, fresh from college, and the chief 
cause of his worry, a fun-making young 
student, form the keynote of this storv. 
Illustrated. $1.00 net. Postpaid $1.10. 

Tommy Sweet-Tooth 

By Josephine S. Gates 

How a little girl ran away from home 
because she did not want to go to bed and 
her adventures with Tommy Sweet-tooth. 
Illustrated. 50c. net. Postpaid 55 cents. 



The One-Footed Fairy and Other Stories 

By AHce Brown 

A collection of the best of Miss Brown's fairy stories. Their flavor may be judged from the following titles : The 
Cry Fairv, The Hippogriff and the Dragon, The Little Brown Hen, and The Green Goblm. Illustrated. $1.25 net. 
Postpaid $1.41. 



Hiawatha 

By H. W. Longfellow 

A new Holiday edition with cover picture by Maxheld 
Parrish, frontispiece by N. C. 
Wyeth. and over 400 illustra- 
tions by Frederic Remington. 
$2^0 net. Postpaid $2.78. 




The Roman People 

By Eva March Tappan 

A vivid and adequate picture of the mighty Roman 
Empire and its interesting 
peoples, entertainingly writ- 
ten for children. 

Illustrated. $1.50. 



^hen Knights Were Bold 

By Eva March Tappan 

Young people who find delight in reading Robin Hood 
and Ivanhoe will welcome this book, in which Miss Tappan 

fives a fascinating account of the life of the middle ages, 
'ully illustrated. $2.00 net. Postpaid $2.12. 



% 



Illustrated Holiday Bulletin sent FREE on request 

HOUGHTON MIFFLIN CO. 

4 Park St., Boston 16 E. 40th St., New York 




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V 



THE BOSTON COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Books on Household Economics 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE presents the fol- 
lowing as a list of representative works on household economics. Any 
of the books will be sent postpaid upon receipt of price. 
With an order amounting to $b or more we include a year's subscription 
to THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE (price $1.) The 
MAGAZINE must be sent, however, to a new subscriber. 

The books will be sent as premiums for securing new subscriptions to 
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE as follows: any book 
listed at not more than fifty cents will be sent postpaid to a present sub- 
scriber on receipt of one new yearly subscription at $1 ; for two subscrip- 
tions we will send postpaid any $\ book; for three subscriptions any $1.50 
book; and so on in like ratio. 

Special rates will be made to schools, clubs and persons wishing a num- 
ber of books. Write for quotation on the list of books you wish. 



A-B-Z of Our Own Nutrition. Hor- 
ace Fletcher 1 

Air, Water and Food. Eichards and 

Woodman 2 

American Salad Book. M. DeLoup . .$1 
Art and Practice of Laundry Work. 

Rankin 

Art of Home Candy-making (with 

thermometer, dipping wire, etc.) 3 

Art of Right Living. Richards 

Baby, The. A book for mothers and 

nurses. D. R. Brown, M. D 1 

Bacteria, Yeasts and Molds in the 

Home. H. W. Conn 1 

Blue Grass Cook Book. Minnie C. Fox 2 
Book of Entrees. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1 
Book of Good Manners. Kingsland 1 
Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln . 2 
Boston Cooking School Cook Book. 

Fannie M. Farmer 2 

Boston School Kitchen Text Book. 

Mary J. Lincoln 1 

Bread and Bread-making. Mrs. Rorer 
Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott 
Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer 
Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer . 
Care and Feeding of Children. L. E. 

Holt, M. D 

Care of a Child in Health. N. Oppen- 

heim 1 

Care or a House. T. M. Clark 1 

Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln 
Century Cook Book. Mary Roland ... 2 
Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn 1 
Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu 

Williams 1 

Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning. 

Richards and Elliot 1, 

Chemistry of Food and Nutrition. 

Sherman , 1 



.00 



.00 
.00 



.00 
.50 

.00 

.00 
.00 
.50 
.50 

.00 

.00 



Clean Milk. S. D. Belcher 1.00 

Cleaning and Renovating. E. G. O-sman .75 
Color, Harmony and Contrast. James 

Wood 4.20 

Complete Home, The. Clara E. Laugh- 

lin 1.23 

Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill . .75 
Cookery, Its Art and Practice. Thu- 

dichum 1.40 

Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Cost of Cleanness. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Food. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Living. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Shelter. Richards 1.00 

Dainties. Mrs. Rorer 35 

Desserts — One Hundred Recipes. By 

Fillipini '. .30 

Diet in Relation to Age and Activity. 

Sir Henry Thompson 1.00 

Dietetic Value of Bread. John Good- 
fellow 1.50 

Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell .... 2.50 
Dictionary of Foods and Culinary En- 
cyclopaedia. Senn 1.00 

Domestic Science. Ida Hood Clark . . 1.50 
Domestic Science in Elementary 

Schools. Wilson 1.00 

Domestic Service. Lucy M. Solomon 2.00 

Dust and Its Dangers. Prndden 75 

Economics of Modern Cookery. M. M. 

Mollock 1.00 

Elements of the Theory and Practice 

of Cookery. Williams and Fisher . . 1.00 
Eggs — One Hundred Recipes. Fillipini .30 
European and American Cuisine. Mrs. 

Lemcke 2.00 

Euthenics. Richards 1.00 

Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer . 1.50 
Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed . . 1.00 
First Lessons in Food and Diet 30 



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ADVERTISEMENTS 



Fish — One Hundred Recipes for Cook- 
ing Fish. Fillipini 30 

First Principles of Wursing. Anne R. 

Manning 1.00 

Food and Cookery for the Sick and 

Convalescent. Fannie M. Farmer . . 1.50 
Food and Dietaries. R. W. Burnett, 

M. D 1.50 

Food and Feeding. Sir Henry Thomp- 
son 1.35 

Food and Its Functions. James Knight 1.00 
Food in Health and Disease. I. B. Yeo, 

M. D 2.50 

Food Materials and their Adultera- 
tions. . Richards 1.00 

Food Products of the World. Mary E. 

Green 1.50 

French Dishes for American Tables. 

Pierre Caron 1.00 

French Household Cooking. Keyser . . .60 
Fuels of the Household. Marian White .75 
Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes 

for Meatless Dishes). Sharpe 2.00 

Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 4.00 
Handbook of Hospitality for Town 

and Country. Florence H. Hall . . . 1.50 
Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary 

A. Boland 2.00 

Handbook on Sanitation. G. M. Price, 

M. D. 1.50 

Healthful Farm House, The. Helen 

Dodd 60 

Home Candy Making. Mrs. Rorer ... .50 

Home Economics. Maria Parloa 1.50 

Home Economics Movement 75 

Home Nursing. Harrison 1.00 

Home Problems from a New Stand- 
point 1.00 

Home Sanitation. Richards and Talbot .25 
Home Science Cook Book. Anna Bar- 
rows and Mary J. Lincoln 1.00 

Homes and their Decoration. French 3.00 
Hostess of Today. Linda Hull Earned 1.50 

Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50 

Household Economics. Helen Camp- 
bell 1.50 

Household Science. Juniata L. Shep- 

perd 1.75 

How to Cook Fish. Olive Green . . . 1.00 
How to Cook for the Sick and Conval- 
escent. H, V. Sachse 1.00 

How to Feed Children. Louise E. Ho- 

gan 1.03 

How to Use a Chafing Dish. Mrs. 

Rorer 25 

Human Foods. Snyder 1.25 

Institution Recipes. Smedley 1.00 

International Cook Book. Fillipini . . 4.80 

Kitchen Companion. Parloa . .". 2.50 

Laundry Manual. Balderston and 

Limerick .50 



Laundry Work. Juniata L. Shep- 

perd 60 

Louis' Salad and Chafing Dishes. 

Muckensturm 50 

Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.40 

Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50 

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. Mrs. 

Rorer 35 

Menu Book and Register of Dishes. 

Senn 2.50 

Milk and Its Products. Wing 50 

My Best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer 50 

New Salads. Mrs. Rorer 50 

Nursing, Its Principles and Practice. 

Isabel H. Robb 2.00 

Nutrition of Man. Chittenden 3.00 

Old Time Recipes for Home Made 

Wines. Helen S. Wright 1.50 

One Woman's Work for Farm Women .50 

Paper Bag Cookery. Soyer 60 

Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving. 

Mrs. Mary F. Henderson 1.50 

Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs. 

Janet M. Hill 2.00 

Practical Dietetics. Gilman Thompson 5.00 
Practical Points in Nursing. Emily A. 

M. Stoney 1.75 

Practical, Sanitary, and Economic 

Cooking. Mary Hinman Abel 10 

Principles of Home Decoration. Can- 
dace Wheeler 1.80 

Proper Feeding of the Family. Gibbs. .25 

Quick Soups. Mrs. Rorer 25 

Register of Foods 1.00 

Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book 2.00 

Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish 

Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Sanitation in Daily Life. Richards . . .60 
Sewing Course for Schools. Wool- 
man 1.50 

Story of Germ Life. H. W. Conn 35 

Sunday Night Suppers. Christine 

Terhune Herrick 1.00 

The Up-to-date Waitress. Mrs. Janet 

M. Hill 1.50 

The Woman Who Spends. Bertha J. 

Richardson 1.00 

Till the Doctor Comes, and How to 

Help Him 1.00 

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substi- 
tutes. Mrs. Rorer 1.50 

Vegetarian Cookery. A, G. Payne ... .50 
With a Saucepan Over the Sea. Ade- 
laide Keen 1.50 

Women and Economics. Charlotte Per- 
kins Stetson 1.50 

Woman's Share in Primitive Culture. 

Otis J. Mason 1.75 

World's The, Commercial Products . . 3.60 



ADDRESS ALL ORDERS 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., BOSTON, MASS. 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




Copyright 1911 
Armour & Company 



Armours 1912 Art Calendar 

Send for your copy now. The edition is limited. This is the most exquisitely beautiful and 
striking of all Armour Calendars. We have reproduced in the artists' original colors the latest 
and best efforts of four of America's most famous artists : Henry Hutt, C. Allen Gilbert, James 
Montgomery Flagg and Penrhyn Stanlaws. Five sheets heavy plate paper, 10x15. Appropriate 
verses by Wilbur D. Nesbit. 

HOW TO GET IT FREE ART PROOFS FOR FRAMING 



Just send us the coupon from a tox of Armour's 
Bouillon Cubes with four cents (stamps) for mailing ; or, 
without coupon, we will send the calendar for 25 cents. 

Address Calendar Dept. 18, Armour &Co., Chicago. 



We have a limited edition of our 1912 Calendar draw- 
ings on extra size paper, suitable for framing ; they con- 
tain no printing. We will send you the one you select for 
25 cents, or $1.00 per set ; with the set we will include the 
calendar. 



Armours Bouillon Cubes 

**Drop it and drink it** 

Furnish cold weather comfort for adults and children, morning, noon and night; one cube 
dropped in a cup of boiling water gives you a most appetizing and delicious bouillon. Solves 
the problem of kitchen convenience and economy by furnishing wholesome, invigorating bouillon 
without trouble and at reasonable cost. 

Thirty cents for 12 cubes, wrapped separately in paraffine paper and tin foil, packed in air- 
tight tin box. 

Your druggist and grocer have them. 



ARMOUR A^» COMPANY 

Dept. 18, Chicago 



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ADVERTISEMENTS 




/ 



GOOD Cocoa is the best beverage 
known to modern authorities on food and 
drink, nourishing, strengthening and a 
valuable aid to digestion. 

There is, however, a wide range in 
the Quality of cocoas. 

Lowney^s cocoa is made of the 
choicest cocoa beans without "treat- 



1^^ 




ments" or adulteration, and 
in a manner that insures 
the purest and best 
product possible. 

It is the best cocoa 
made. 

The Lorone^ Cook Book 
421 pages, $1.25. At 
all hook sellers 

The Walter M. 
^ Lowney Co. 
Boston 

I Cocoa-Chocolate 
^ Chocolate Bonbons 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
ix 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



As the marmalade is made by weight, 
any number of oranges may be used, 
allowing one lemon for each three or 
four oranges. Use all the water 
designated. When bitter marmalade is 
desired, soak the orange seeds over- 
night in cold water, let cook an hour 
or more and add the water drained from 
the seeds to the other ingredients. 

Sauce Tartare for Fish, Etc. 

To a pint of mayonnaise sauce, made 
with mustard, add a shallot, chopped 
exceedingly fine, one-fourth a cup, each, 
of fine-chopped capers, olives and cu- 
cumber pickles and two tablespoonfuls 
of fine-chopped parsley. A slice of mild 
onion may replace the shallot. 

Mayonnaise Dressing 

(Quickly made without danger of separating.) 

2 tablespoonfuls of 
of vinegar or lemon 

juice 
of 1 cup of olive oil 

2 tablespoonfuls of 
boiling water 

Beat the yolk of egg; add the salt 
and paprika and beat again, then, use 
an egg-beater, and beat in the vinegar 
or lemon juice; beat vigorously, then 
add a teaspoonful of olive oil and con- 
tinue the beating; add oil, a teaspoonful 
at a time, three or four times, beating 
vigorously meanwhile, then add the oil 
by the tablespoonful, until a cup in all 
has been used. Finish with the boiling 
water, beating it in, in the same manner 
as the oil. By adding all the acid to the 
yolk before oil is used, the egg-beater 
may be used from the beginning and the 
larger surface over which the oil is 
spread lessens the liability of the mix- 
ture to curdle. The boiling water at the 
last also assists in preventing the ''turn- 
ing" or curdling of the sauce after it 
has been set aside. After the sauce is 
mixed cover with an earthen dish and 
set aside in a cool place. The sauce 
will thicken still more upon chilling. 



1 yolk of egg 
i 2l teaspoonful 

salt 
I a teaspoonful 

pepper 



tirely surrounded by a pinkjeUy from which 
they may be cut in squares at serving." 

Baked Apples in Jelly 

Pare and core apples, set them into 
the oven in an agate pan with two or 
three tablespoonfuls of water, and turn 
occasionally while baking to keep them 
whole. The apples may be cooked more 
quickly in syrup, but will need constant 
attention or they will lose shape. Make 
a syrup of one cup, each, of sugar and 
water; put in six apples, pared and 
cored carefully; let cook in the syrup,, 
turning often, until tender throughout, 
then remove and let chill. To one cup- 
of syrup in w^hich the apples were 
cooked add two cups of raspberry juice 
or three-fourths a cup of lemon juice 
and one cup and a fourth of water, half 
a cup of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of 
granulated gelatine, softened in half a 
cup of cold water ; stir over the fire un- 
til the gelatine and sugar are dissolved, 
then pour into a rectangular dish enough 
of the liquid to make a sheet half an- 
inch thick. Let this stand in ice and 
water until firm ; on this dispose the 
chilled apples at equal distances froms 
each other, and gradually add the liquid 
to cover the apples completely. With the 
lemon juice, pink coloring or paste may 
be used to secure the shade of pink de- 
sired. 



Query 1768. — ''Recipe for a dark Fruit Cake 
containing no liquors, with directions for mak- 
ing, baking and putting away for future use." 



Ten Pound Fruit Cake 

butter (2 



I lb. of 
cups) 

1 lb. of sugar (2 
cups) 

Yolks of 12 eggs 

2 cups of molasses 

1 lb. (4 cups) of 
sifted flour 

1 teaspoonful of 
cloves 

2 teaspoonfuls of cin- 
namon 



of 



2 teaspoonfuls 
mace 

1 teaspoonful of soda 
Whites of 12 eggs 

2 lbs. of seeded 
raisins 

2 lbs. of sliced citron 
21 lbs. of currants 
i a lb. of candied 

orange peel 
I a lb. of blanched' 

almonds 



Query 1767. — "How can I bake apples so 
that they may retain their shape and be en- 



Beat the butter to a cream; beat in- 
the sugar, the yolks of eggs, beaten: 
light, the molasses, flour sifted with the* 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



"It's a Delicious 

Seasoning" 




When frying a chop or steak 
pour into the gravy just a 
httle of this genuine Imported 
Worcestershire Sauce. 



Every bottle of this delicious Sauce is guaranteed imported under 
seal, thereby ensuring that delightful zest peculiar to English Sauces. 



XX 11 Worcesteilyhire C^ 

nolbrooKCs o 



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Imported Absol\itely 





Oven Heated 



on 



Five Sides 




SECTiON OF FRENCH JOe_ 



This cut gives a very comprehensive 
idea of the many fine features Hub 
Ranges possess. 

A valuable feature not shown on 
cut is The Hub Improved Sheet 
Flue. It carries heat directly under 
all six covers — making them all avail- 
able for cooking purposes ; then, around 
five sides of the oven — making it much 
more evenly and economically heated. 
All Hub Ranges made with or without 
gas attachments. 

Send for "Range Talk No. 3 " 

Smith & Anthony Company 

52-54 Union Si., Boston, Mass. 

Sold by the best dealers everywhere 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
xi 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



soda and spices, the whites of eggs, 
beaten dry, and, lastly, the fruit and 
nuts. This may be baked in two hours 
and forty minutes in two tube pans 
8 inches in diameter. The cake will be 
three inches thick. 

In keeping fruit cake the two things 
to guard against are dryness and mould. 
Keep for a time in a close-covered tin 
receptacle, then change to a close-cov- 
ered earthen jar; continue the use of 
these dishes as the condition of the cake 
indicates. 



Query 1769. — "Recipe for Tomato Sauce for 
roast meats and baked beans." 

Tomato Sauce for Meats 

3 tablespoonfuls of 4 tablespoonfuls of 

butter, browned flour 

1 tablespoonful of i a teaspoonful of 

onion salt 

1 tablespoonful of ^ a teaspoonful of 

carrot pepper 

1 bunch of parsley 1 cup of tomato puree 

1 bit of bay leaf . i a cup of brown 
I stock 

Chop the onion and carrot before 

measuring; cook these with the parsley 

and bay leaf in the butter until well 

browned ; add the flour and seasonings 

and cook until browned, then add the 

puree and stock and stir until boiling, 

then strain and it is ready to use. 

Tomato Sauce for Baked Beans 

Prepare as above or simmer the vege- 
tables in the tomato without browning 
them, then strain and finish as above. 
Three tablespoonfuls of flour will suflice. 



Query 1770. — "How may a strong and 
tasty Soup Stock be made." 

Regarding Soup Stock 

The subject of soup stock cannot be 
taken up exhaustively in this depart- 
ment. For minute details on soup 
making the subscriber is referred to the 
chapter on "Soups and Soup Making," 
in "Practical Cooking and Serving." — 
A few items of a general character are 
given here. 

Standard broth — broth containing the 
soluble compounds of a pound of meat 
in each pint of water — if properly made 



will always insure good results, but 
stock made largely of remnants of 
roasts, especially if reinforced by a few 
bits of uncooked meat, are by no means 
to be despised. 

If broth is to be used for aspic jelly 
consomme or a very fine sauce, clarifica- 
tion is necessary; for most other uses 
it is not essential and the process, while 
adding nothing to the flavor, causes 
loss in the nutritive value. 

Kinds of JNIeat, Fish, Etc., in 
Stock 

Stock, or broth, may be made of a 
single variety of meats, game or fish, 
or of a combination of two or more 
varieties. Beef, veal and chicken com- 
bined give consomme. Lamb may be 
combined with beef, but it is commonly 
used alone. Any varieties of fish may 
be used together, and chicken or veal 
broth are used with any variety of fish. 
Salmon and lobster, on account of their 
pronounced flavor, must be used with 
care and would not be selected for gen- 
eral stock. 

For color and also for the more pro- 
nounced flavor developed in browned 
meats, part of the meat used in stock, 
unless it be desirable to keep the stock 
very white, should be browned before 
it is covered with liquid. A small quan- 
tity of fat and some bone should be 
present in the meat selected for stock. 
Marrow is the best form of fat, and the 
fat of browned roasts is next in value. 
A small bit of ham (about two ounces) 
may be added with the other meats. 
The bones of fish, veal and chicken are 
rich in gelatinous substances which give 
body to a broth ; beef bones are valuable, 
principally for the bits of meat adhering 
to them. 

Temperature and Time of Cook- 
ing Stock 

The meat or fish to be used, cut in 
small pieces, is put over the fire in cold 
water. It is well to allow the meat to 
stand some time in the cold water be- 
fore setting it over the fire, that the 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




5 HELPINGS IN 5<P PKG. 

Proportionaiely more 
in larger Pkgs. 



^ 



M^^ 




Make This Your Dail); Food 

This Macaroni and Spaghetti is flavory, firm and tender ; it is made in a modem factory 
far from the city's dust and dirt, by Americans who pride themselves on cleanliness and observe 
our American pure food laws in letter and in spirit. It is made clean, and it's kept clean all 
the way to your kitchen by a sealed, sanitary package. 

So give Foulds a place on your home table frequently. Its food value is high, it is most 
economical and the variety of really good dishes you can make with it is almost unlimited. 

You will like Macaroni and Spaghetti prepared in the usual ways with cheese or tomatoes 
better than ever if you use Foulds. And there are forty other combinations with your favorite 
meats and vegetables, with eggs, fish and oysters, which are equally good or better. Try this 
recipe and see how a commonplace thing like Hamburger Steak is transformed into a 
nutritious and delicious dish, which you v;ill be glad to serve often. 



Hamburger a La Foulds 

Let simmer together for 30 minutes, one-half pound 
of Hamburger Steak, half a can of tomatoes and a 
small onion chopped fine. While this is cooking, boil 
and drain a five-cent package of Foulds Macaroni or 
Spaghetti as directed, without breaking the sticks. 

When the meat and tomatoes are sufficiently 
cooked, add half a pound, or less, of cheese, cut fine or 
grated, and a lump of butter ; season to taste with salt 
and red pepper; simmer until the cheese is melted, 
then add the Macaroni or Spaghetti and serve hot. 

This dish can be varied by omitting the cheese and 
doubling the quantity of Hamburger Steak, or by 
adding a few mushrooms, either fresh or canned. 
Left-overs of roasts will never be recognized as such if 
put through the food chopper and used instead of 
fresh Hamburger. 



Save this recipe, or better, drop us a postal for a 
free copy of the Americanized Macaroni and Spaghetti 
Cook Book. It contains 42 other excellent recipes, 
mostly simple and inexpensive— all pleasing to 
American tastes. 

If your grocer does not yet handle Foulds, 
give us his name and address and send 
us 10c in stamps or coin, and we will send 
you, charges prepaid, a full 5c package 
each of Macaroni and Spaghetti with a 
copy of the Cook Book. Then you can try 
for yourself at least two of these new 
dishes made with the very best American 
Macaroni and Spaghetti which you know 
is appetizingly clean. 



The Foulds Milling Co., Sales Dept Chicago, 111. 

a "Helps Reduce the High Cost of Living" C 




'^mmmmmmmmmmm, 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
xiii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



juices may be more easily drawn out in- 
to the water. Heat slowly to the boiling 
point, skim, and allow to cook, gently 
bubbling at one side, and partially 
covered, five or six hours ; then add the 
vegetables and herbs to be used in flavor- 
ing, and let cook another hour. Pour 
off the broth, pressing all the juice from 
the solid ingredients; let cool quickly 
and uncovered. With the fat on top un- 
disturbed, stock will keep several days 
in winter, but in summer it must be re- 
heated every other day, and occasionally 
the weather is such that scalding each 
day is necessary. 

General Recipe for Standard 
Broth 



(3 pints) 



4 pounds of meat 

(one-fourth bone) 
4 pints of cold water 
i a pound of lean 1 

ham 
10 peppercorns 
3 sprigs of parsley 
6 cloves 



i a bay leaf 

i a sweet pepper pod 

i a teaspoon ful of 

sweet herbs or 
2 a "soup bag" 
2 stalks of celery 
2 a carrot 
2 an onion cut in bits 



For white broth use veal as the meat ; 
after cooking three hours, add a fowl, 
trussed as for roasting, and let it sim- 
mer until tender, then remove the fowl 
for use in some other dish and finish 
the broth as usual. This will give a very 
light colored stock; for a darker stock, 
brown part of the veal (cut in pieces) 
in marrow or drippings. Add these bits 
of meat to the rest of the meat, soaking 
in cold water. Pour some of the water 
into the pan and let it stand over the 
fire for some time to melt the glaze and 
browning material adhering to the pan ; 
finally add this to the soup kettle and 
finish according to the directions 
previously given. For a dark brown 
stock use, largely, beef or game of dark 
flesh, and brown part of the meat. This 
recipe should produce three pints of 
strong broth of a color corresponding to 
the material used. 

Consomme 

Use the same ingredients as for 
standard broth, except take two pounds. 



each, of beef and veal. Partly roast a 
fowl and a'dd when the broth is about 
half cooked. Remove the fowl when 
tender. For a consomme, when less pro- 
nounced flavor of chicken is desired, add 
the chicken raw. Use the whites and 
shells of three eggs and half a pound 
of raw veal, chopped fine, to clarify the 
broth. 

Stock from Uncooked Chicken 
Bones, Giblets, Etc. 

Disjoint the framework, add the neck 
and giblets and if convenient bits of 
cooked and uncooked veal. Cover the 
whole with cold water and let simmer 
five or six hours. Add for each quart 
of liquid a rounding teaspoonful, each, 
of coarse-chopped onion, carrot and 
celery, two sprigs of parsley, four 
peppercorns, and half a teaspoonful of 
sweet herbs and let cook nearly an hour. 
Finish as in the directions previously 
given. 

Stock from Remnants of Roasts, 
Etc. 

Proceed as in making stock from un- 
cooked bones, etc. If convenient, a little 
uncooked meat should also be used as the 
flavor is much improved thereby. The 
browned fat on roasts is a good addition 
to the other materials. 




Ordinary dusting scatters but does not 
remove dust and germs. Use cheese-cloth 
dampened with tepid water to which a little 
Piatt's Chlorides, the odorless disinfectant, 
has been added. Wring out till dry so that 
it will not streak the wood work, etc. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
xiv 



I 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



For Parties, 

LancheSy 
Light Suppers 



there is 
nothing 
like the 



IVJanning- 

Alcohol Gas Stove 
Qiafing Dishes 




With "Alcolite" Burner 

THOSE having the Alcohol Gas Stove with Alcolite | 

Burner have a double value, for this stove has the | 

cooking pov^er of a range burner, taking any cooking i 

utensil as v^ell as Manning-Bov^man Coffee Percolators. | 

Manning- Bowman Coffee Percolators make coffee as quickly, and of better quality, starting with g 
cold water as others starting with hot. They are guaranteed to make better, more healthful, § 
more delicious coffee than by any other process No small parts to lose. No valves to clog. U 

Manning-Bowman Tea Ball Tea Pots prevent the infusion from absorbing too much strength U 

from the tea leaves in standing. Therefore the second cup is always like the first. The ball is g 

raised and lowered from the outside by the knob of the cover, and the suspending chain § 

remains concealed inside the pot whether the ball is up or down. U 

These products are made in a variety of styles and sizes, the popular mission designs and 
many other handsome patterns, in solid copper, nickel, silver plate, or aluminum. 

The Manning-Bowman products are sold by leading dealers. Write for 
Free Recipe Book and Catalogue No. L-19 

MANNING, BOWMAN & CO. 
Meriden, Conn. 

Also makers of 

Manning-Bowman 

Urn Coffee Perco- 
lators, Eclipse 

Bread Makers, 

Chafing Dish 

Accessories, The 

Celebrated M.&B 
Tea Ball ^'''^^^^^^^^^^^ " Transparent Brass, Copper and 
Tea Pot ^mSSSa^SK' view" showing Nickel polish 
No. 6672 ^^^^^ 





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New Books 



Pure Foods, Their Adulteration, Nu- 
tritive Value and Cost. By John C. 
Olsen. 12 mo, cloth, 210 pages, 
illustrated, 80 cents. Boston : Ginn 
and Company. 
'Ture Foods : their Adulteration, Nu- 
tritive Value, and Cost" aims to present, 
in language easily understood, the results 
of the large amount of scientific investi- 
gation to which the various phases of the 
food problems have been subjected in 
recent years. 

The text includes the chemical com- 
position of each class of foods, the 
methods used in producing the food, and 
the common adulterations, together with 
.a number of simple tests for the detec- 
tion of these. The directions are so ex- 
plicit that they may be carried out by 
persons who have not been trained as 
chemists. 




[RUBBER BUTTON] 

Hose Supporter 



Guaranteed 
Against 
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It wears well be- 
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Children's 

SamplePair 

by mail, 

16 cents 

(give age) 




parts are 
oi select 
quality, 
accurately 
matched 
and fitted. 
The clasp will not 
slip off, yet it may 
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ease, even by children. 



Look for the Moulded Rubber Button and 
" Velvet Grip " stamped on the loop. 
Sold by Dealers Everywhere. 
GEORGE FROST COMPANY, Boston, U.S.A. 



The nutritive value of foods being 
given, it is shown how the true cost may 
be estimated. 

There is a statement of legal require- 
ments for pure foods, and a list of 
references to literature on the subject so 
that those interested may pursue it still 
further. 

This volume is admirably adapted for 
use in domestic science or chemistry 
classes where the chemistry of foods is 
studied and laboratory tests made for 
purity. 

The intelligent consumer of foods 
and the food producer or dealer will 
find this of great assistance in purchas- 
ing pure and nutritive foods. 

This is a new book, a practicable book, 
a book for the present-day needs of 
teachers and students of domestic science. 

Firebrands. By Frank E. Martin and 
George M. Davis. III. 12mo, Cloth. 
$1.25. Boston: Little, Brown & Co. 

This volume has been written for the 
special purpose of teaching children how 
to avoid setting a fire, how to extinguish 
one, and how to hold one in check until 
the arrival of help. Each story tells how 
a fire was started, how it should have 
been avoided, and how it was put out. 

Property destroyed by fire is gone for- 
ever, and cannot be replaced. The amount 
that is lost annually is almost beyond 
calculation. Children need to be taught 
these lessons. This book is a good ex- 
ample of the fact that, in early life, 
the best instruction is accomplished 
often by indiscretion. Firebrands is a 
book for boys and girls from 8 to 12 
years of age. 

The Nezv Home Cook Book. Enameled 
" Cloth. Price $1.00 net. Chicago: 

A. C. McClurg & Co. 
The Sixtieth Thousand edition of 
the New Home Cook Book shows the 
favor with which the work has been 
received in portions of the country. This 
edition is enriched by new articles on 



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ADVERTISEMENTS 



How to Buy a Vacuum Gleaner 

When you have resolved to install a Vacunm Cleaner in your borne, you have a still 
more important matter to decide. The amount of satisfaction you will get out of 
this sanitary cleaning method depends upon which machine you select to do the work. 

Look for These Five Features 

First, A Powerful Machine that will take up 
all the dirt and dust, even that deeply imbedded 
in the very texture of heavy floor coverings. The 
FEDERAL VACUUM CLEANER has a 

Rotary Pump. Its pump revolves steadily in one direc- 
tion, similar to a powerful turbine engine. It creates a 
positive and powerful suction that is not possible in other 
types of vacuum cleaners. 

Second. A Simple Machine. The accompany- 
ing illustration shows at a glance the extreme simplicity 
of the working parts of the "FEDERAL," all of which 
are easy of access. 

Third. A Durable Machine. The "FEDERAL" 

has no valves to work loose — no bellows to wear out. Its 
motor and Rotary Pump revolve always in the same direc- 
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Fourth. A Vibrationless Machine. The Ro- 
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floor. This makes it ideal for use in apartment buildings- 
Fifth. A Noiseless Machine. The "FEDERAL" 
operates without noise. There are no gears to rattle, no 
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features only in 

The Silent Running 




Weighs Only 60 Pounds 

The "FEDERAL" is the lightest ma- 
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all metal parts (excepting motor and light steel 
jacket) are made of aluminum. Even the clean- 
ing tools are made of this light metal. The rug 
cleaning tool with its handle weighs only 36 
ounces. You need neither weight nor effort to 
clean with a "FEDERAL"— the air does all the 
work. 



fTZ^ — — ' A' 3 

/ JHHteml Hamani fflmittr ] 

VJ25 — — ,^«««.— - — esuy 

It is the Rotary Pump that makes the ** FEDERAL" 
excel other Vacuum Cleaners. It is the Rotary Pump that 
gives it the powerful suction — that takes up all the dirt 
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Vacuum Cleaner. 

The Federal Guarantee 

We will ship you a "FEDERAL" for 

10 days trial. If not satisfactory return it at our 
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count for remittance within 10 days after receipt 
of machine. Or $25 down and 10 monthly pay- 
ments of $10 each. Write today for full parti- 
culars of this offer, complete descriptive booklet, 
etc. Address: 



Vacunm Cleaner Department 

Federal Si^n System (Electric) 



591 Home Insurance Building 



Chicago, Illinois 



Branches in 15 Cities 

New York, Baltimore, Cincinnati, Buffalo, Columbus, Detroit, Harrishurg, Kansas City, 
I^ex:ington, I^ouisville, New Orleans, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, St. Louis, Oklahoma City 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Not only absolutely pure 
but with a rich delicious 
flavor 

Bumett^s 
Vanilla 

will satisfy the most dis- 
criminating woman. 

It contains only the 
gums and resins of the 
finest Mexican Vanilla 
Beans, extracted with 
cologne spirits and pure 
distilled water. It is then 
sweetened with refined 
cane sugar, and mellowed 
in old Spanish sherry 
casks. The greatest pos- 
sible care is taken at every 
stage of its manufacture. 

For purity and deli- 
ciousness you will find 
that Burnett's Vanilla 
cannot be surpassed. 

JOSEPH BURNETT CO. 
Boston, Mass. 



The Fireless Cooker, The Casserole, and 
Sunday Night Suppers, which are com- 
plementary to Housekeeping in the 
Twentieth Century. Dinner Etiquette, 
Marketing, etc., but the chief and distinc- 
tive character of the book is as a col- 
lection of choice and valuable recipes, 
tried and approved by well known and 
experienced housekeepers. 



Schools of Industrial and House- 
hold Arts 

TEACHERS' COLLEGE, Columbia 
University, has recently created 
two technical schools, of Industrial Arts 
and of Household Arts, involving an 
investment of nearly a million dollars, 
devoted to vocational education. The 
prime purpose of these schools is the 
training of men and women as teachers 
of industrial, commercial and household 
arts; but as technical schools they are 
training both men and women in various 
other skilled callings. Young women 
may obtain diplomas and certificates in 
such new fields as household manage- 
ment, house or interior decoration, home 
and institutional cookery, costume design, 
dressmaking, millinery, dietetics, laundry 
management, lunch-room management, 
nursery management, school and visiting 
nursing, sanitary inspection, and clerical 
work. In the School of Industrial Arts 
courses are offered in cabinet-making, 
pattern-making, wood-carving, forge, 
foundry, art, metal work, drafting and 
design, industrial mathematics, ceramics, 
art photography, book-binding, library 
economy, textiles, plant management, 
business organization, accounting, sten- 
ography and typewriting. 

It is significant of the trend in educa- 
tion, which would add to the present 
schooling in fundamental branches a 
distinct training for some useful calling 
for every boy and girl, that at this great 
metropolitan university these schools are 
training teachers of practical subjects 
who will aid in the new crusade for a 
universal vocational education. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




lENSDOR 
$QCO 

^^RDAM-HOL 

"^^is £ccca (for ^ 

^^ft OF CAKL CHOCOS^^ 




It's real Dutch, not " near Dutch " 
Highest quality and absolute purity. 

Use BENSDORP^S 
And Save (^ Your Cocoa. 

It is positively unequalled in 
value by any other make. Ask 
for our new oval package. 
Always in Yellow Wrapper. 

STEPHEN L. BARTLETT CO. 

Importers - - Boston 




-BELLS SEASONING-, 

40Years of Success;40Years preferred bg I 
Chefs.CooKs £/Housekeepers/(?r ^ 
delicateli) flavoring Dressings 
forPo\iltfg,Game,Meats,Fish. 
Insist onBEITS the original 

MEAT OR TURKEY DRESSING (equally good when baked and served 

separately). Toast 7 or 8 slices of white bread. Place in a deep dish, 

adding butter size of an egg. Cover with hot water to melt butter and 

make bread right consistency. ADD' AN EVEN TABLESPOON OF BELL'S 

SEASONING, an even teaspoon salt, and 4 slices of salt pork, fried to a 

crisp and chopped fine. When well mixed, stir in 1 or 2 raw eggs. 

NOTE. — The above dressings maybe improved, to some tastes, by adding chopped nuts of any kind — 
chestnuts, peanuts, walnuts, etc. Oysters also give a fine flavor. 

OF YOUR GROCER. The small, or 10c can will flavor the dressing for 100 

lbs. of meat, game, fish or poultry; the large, or 25c can for 300 lbs. The 

14b. and 5=lbs cans are purchased by all first=class hotels and restaurants. 

For Delicious Sausages, Flavor with Bell's Sausage Seasoning 




138 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



A BAKING POWDER 

AS GOOD AS ITS 
NAME IMPLIES. 

That's 

Mrs. Lincoln's 







!j Send two 2 -cent stamps for 
Mrs. Lincoln's Little 
Cook Book 



MRS. LINCOLN'S 

BAKING POWDER COMPANY 

15 Commerce St., Boston 



DRINK 

IN PLACE OF COFFEE. 

Made from Bananas for those who 
will not, should not, cannot drink 
Coffee. 

Cheaper, healthier than coffee and 
quickly make. Send 1 0/ for liberal 
sample. 

WE MAKE 

BANANA FLOUR 

by a new dehydrated system that contains 83^ % 
Corbohydrate element that produces energy. 

PANAMA BANANA FOOD CO. 
29 WEST STREET, - - - NEW YORK 



The Veranda Girls 

CoNCtmiED FROM Page 202 

Now the prize of the recipes comes 
last. You see, Mrs. Fallows, DoU's 
grandmother, was grandniece to some 
friend-in-law of Mrs. Washington, and 
the friend-in-law had willed Mrs. Fal- 
lows Mrs. Washington's recipe for 
fruit cake. If reading about it makes 
your mouth water, think what the taste 
was to six starving college girls. Here 
it is: 

To Make a Rich Black Cake 

Take twenty eggs ; divide the whites 
from the yolks, and beat the whites to 
a froth ; then work two pounds of but- 
ter to a cream, put the whites of eggs 
in, a spoonful at a time, until well 
mixed. Then put two pounds of sugar, 
fine powdered, in the same manner, 
add the yolks, well beaten, two and 
one-half pounds of flour and five 
pounds of fruit. Add to this one ounce 
of mace, a nutmeg, one half pint of 
wine and some French brandy. Five 
and one-quarter hours will bake it. 
(Signed) MARTHA WASHINGTON 
Mount Vernon. 

This recipe is said to have been used 
in making the cake for the wedding of 
Mrs. Washington's grand-daughter, 
Nellie Custis, to Major Lewis, on Feb- 
uary 22, 1799. 

We crawled, I use the word advis- 
edly, into the drawing room after din- 
ner and here, though I have confessed 
to being a hungry healthy creature, 
the best part of the feast awaited us. 
Doll's grandmother was there, dressed 
in a perfectly bewitching old gown 
that she had worn to her first ball, 
just sixty-two years before. She 
greeted us in her sweet stately old way. 
Then came the surpise. The shades 
were drawn, candles, in silver candel- 
abra, furnishing the only light. In one 
dim corner of the room stood an old 
harpsichord that, as long as I had 
known Doll, I had never seen opened 
and supposed was kept as a curiosity. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



COOK WITHOUT FIRE 




A servant that serves whether you are away 
or at home — that's the HYGIENIC FIRE- 
LESS COOKER AND BAKER. 

When you go away in the motning, place 
your dinner in the cooker — on your return you 
will find the most savory meal cooked in the 
most satisfactory manner. 

Magic ! Not a bit of it. Simply the appli- 
cation of the principle of utilizing stored heat 
energy. The HYGIENIC is built to retain the 
heat placed in it, just as was the brick oven of 
our grandmothers. You simply heat the plates 
and place them in the cooker with the food — 
then forget all about your cooking until meal 
time. It does not scorch or burn. 

Send the name of your Hardware Dealer and we will mail 
you free a copy of our catalogue and ' ' Fireless Cooking. " 
Write now. 

Stephens Manufacturing Company 

344 Franklin Building, Buffalo. N. Y. 



NEW STANDARD 
"Central Needle" 
Sewing Machine 



HYGIENIC. Because: 

1. No strain on spine or eyes. 

2. Easy Running. 




A— Ordinary Sewing 
PoBition. 

B— "Central Needle" 
PoBitiou. 



C. HENDERSON CO., Boston, Mass. 
Factory Selling Aiients 



Write our nearest agency for booklet and easy terms 

Shepard. Nor well Co., Boston 
Sibi«y, Lindsey & Curr, Rochester 
Joseph Home Co., Pitt&bur? 
L. S. Ayres & Co., Indianapolis 
Stix, Baer & Fuller, St Louis 
J- L. Hudson Co., Detroit 
Forbes & "Wallace, Springfield 
Lion Dry Goods Co.. Toledo 



The Shepard Company, Providence 



John Wanamaker, New York 

John Wanamaker, Phila. 

The May Co. Cleveland 

Dey Bros. & Co., Syracuse 

Kann Sons & Co., Washington 

Wm. Hengerer Co., Buffalo 

E. S. Brown Co., Fall River 

Erie Dry Goods Co., Erie 




" Leaders in Taste are Lovers of^FausV " 

Missouri Pacific 
Serves "Faust" 



The high standard of service which accom- 
panies the traveler today guarantees the best 
of everything. One of the strongest evi- 
dences of this "Quality Service" i» the 
richly delicious * 'Faust'* Coffee which such 
leading railroad systems as the Missouri 
Pacific have served for years. 




C@FF 




Havingr become the favorite with America's lead- 
ing railroads, hotels, cafes and clubs "Faust" is now 
being put on general sale throughout the country. 

Now On Sale at Grocers 

**BlendA'' 45c a pound 
**BlendB'* 40c a pound 
** Blend C" 35c a pound 

Put up in Air-Tight Aroma-Preserving Tins 

Buy It and Try It Today 
C. F, Blanke Tea & Coffee Co. 

St. Louis, Missouri 

Importers of the Famous " Faust " Teas. 
India Ceylon or Mixed, in quarter, half and 
full pound tins at 50c, 60c and 75c per lb. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Korr?let 

The Milky Pulp of 
Sweet Green Corn 

Kornlet is not canned corn. 
Canned corn contains the 
hulls of the kernels and often- 
times bits of cob, husk, or 
**silk"aswell. It takes only 
5 ears to make a can of ordi- 
nary canned corn. It takes 9 
ears to make a can of Kornlet 
—because we use 
onlythewhite. milky 
pulp of the kernel 
without the hulls. 
Kornlet is made of 
freshest, tender, 
sweet corn, and 
when green corn is 
out of season it is a 
substitutethatmany 

prefertocorn 

on the cob. 



For your gro- 
cer's name will 
send you a book 
of prize recipes 
for Kornlet 
soup, fritters, 
and many other 
delicious dishes 



The Haserot 
Canneries Co. 
Cleveland, 0. 



SONG POEMS cSSpo"mo'„'i 

— That are successful — bring fame and cash to their 
writers. Send us your manuscript, or write for FREE 
PARTICULARS. Publication guaranteed if accepted. 
H. Kirkus Dugdale Co., Desk 225, Washington, D.C. 




Baby Wear 
Handkerchiefs 
Shirt Waists 
Neckwear 
Irish Crochet 
Household Linens. 

Inexpensive 

Christmas 

Novelties. 

Write Today. 



Irish Hand 
Embroideries 



Sent for 
ELxamination 

To assist every lover of hand em- 
broideries to make satisfactory selec- 
tions we gladly send collections of 
the handsome pieces we are constant- 
ly receiving directf rom Irish Peasants, 
many of whose families have worked 
for us for the past century. May we 
send a collection to you? We pay ex- 
press both ways. Tell us what lines 
interest you and the embroideries will 
be sent for examination. You will 
find the prices surprisingly low. 

Write for our j>lan for raising funds 
for church or charity. 

IRISH LINEN COMPANY 

416 Security Building, Davenport, la. 



But to-day the top was thrown back 
and the little old lady in lavender, 
saying that Doll had asked her to sing 
to us, walked across to the old instru- 
ment and sang, in a fine but soft voice, 
several old songs that held us spell- 
bound and brought tears to our eyes. 

We went home in a quiet mood, but 
there was a new picture in our memo- 
ry-hall that should grace it for many 
a day. 

An Incriminating Fact 

Rastus was on trial, charged with 
stealing seven dollars and eighty-five 
cents. He pleaded not guilty, and, as he 
was unable to hire an attorney, the judge 
appointed Lawyer Clearem as counsel. 
Clearem put up a strong plea in defense, 
and Rastus was acquitted. 

Counsel and client met a few minutes 
later outside the court room. 

"Now, Rastus," said Clearem, "you 
know the court allows the counsel very 
little for defending this kind of a case. 
I worked hard for you and got you clear. 
I'm entitled to much more pay than I'm 
getting for my valuable services, and you 
should dig up a good-sized fee. Have 
you got any money?" 

"Yes, Boss," repHed Rastus, "I still 
done got dat seben doUahs and eighty- 
five cents." — Everybody's. 



One day, while the late William R. 
Travers was sojourning at Bermuda, he 
came to the wharf to see the arrivals. 
Meeting an acquaintance, he said, "Ah, 
Merrill, what brings you down here?" 
"Oh, just came for a little change and 
rest." "Sorry to discourage you," said 
Travers ; "but I'm afraid you'll go home 
without either." "How's that?" said 
Merrill. "Oh," said Travers, "the wait- 
ers will get all the change, and the land- 
lords will get all the rest." 




Eminent Teachers QfQjol^ery. 
THE PALISADE MFG.CO. 353 CLINTON AVE, WEST HOBOKEN. N.J. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



r 



We have an 

Attractive 

Proposition 

to make to those who 
will take subscriptions for 

THE BOSTON 

COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

Write us for it if you 
wish to canvass your 
town or if you wish to 
secure only a few 
names among your 
friends and acquaint- 
ances. Start the work 
at once and you will be 
surprised how easily 
you can earn ten, twen- 
ty or fifty dollars. 

Address 
SUBSCRIPTION DEPARTMENT 

Boston Cooking 'School 
Magazine Co. 

BOSTON. MASSACHUSCTTS 



Table Crockery, 
China and Glass 

Adapted to Thanksgiving 

Intexidin^ bviyers will find an extensive 
stocK to cKoose from in 



Dinner Sets 

(^5 up to $1000.00) 

Eatree Sets 

($3.50 up to $78) 

Fish Sets 

($6 up to $135) 



Salad Sets 

(|4 up to $50) 

Ice Cream Sets 

($2.75 up to $40) 

Game Sets 

($8 up to $135) 



Single Dozens of High^Class China Plates 
for Course Dinners 

Boaillon Cups and Saucers 
Ramekins, all values 

Grapefruit Plates or Bowls 
After Dinner Coffee Sets 

French Porcelain Souffle Dishes 
Macaroni Dishes and Stands 
Turkey Platters and Plates 

Paris Cafe Entree Dishes 

Covered Cheese Dishes 

Fireproof Welsh Rarebit Dishes 
Umbrella and Cane Holders — Ferneries and 
Table Decorations — Plant Pots and Pedestals — 
Window Boxes. 

In the Dinner Set Department will be seen many 
attractive Stock Patterns always readily matched, 
also other designs not to be duplicated. 

In the Glass Department will also be found all 
grades, from the low cost pressed ware to the 
etched and costly rich cut specimens adapted to 
Wedding Gifts. 

Finger Bowls — Vases — Cocktails — Roemers — 
Sorbets — Creme de Menthes — Cordials — Lemonades 
— Champagnes — Hocks — Decanters — Carafes, etc. 

Kitchen Ware Department 

Comprises everything pertaining to the home in 
this line, adapted for the family, club, hotel, yacht, 
or public institution, including new French Porcelain 
Souffle Dishes, Shirred Egg Dishes, Egg Poachers, 
Cafetieres, Casseroles, Cocottes, etc. 

Rare and odd China Pitchers, from the ordinary 
up to the costly. Over 800 kinds to choose from. 

In brief, everything pertaining to Crockery, Por- 
celain and Glassware connected with home, hotel and 
club, in sets or parts of sets up to the costly table 
services. 

Inspection Invited 

Jones, McDuffee 4 Stratton Co. 

CROCKERY, CHINA AND GLASS 

(10 Floors) 
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL 

33 Franklin Street, Cor. Hawley 



Near 'WasHingt 



on an 



d s 



-umine 



r Sts , Boston 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
xxiii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Trade Mark Registered 

Farwejl & Rhines' 
s 




Also Invaluable Cereal Special- 
ties tor Invalids. Ask lor them 

At Leading G«*ocors, etc. 



Demonstration Lectures 
in Cooking 



SINGLE AND IN 
COURSES 



By MPS. Janet M. Hill 



Edit! 



Boston Coo k ing- School Magaz 



Topics for Single Demonstrations: 

Meat Substitutes and Left-Overs. 

Cheap Cuts of Meat Made Palatable. 

Daily Meals Considered Physiologically 
and Esthetically. 

Dishes for Home Entertaining. 

Sauces, Entrees and Salads. 

For Clubs, where cooking is inconvenient, 
a lecture on Pertinent Points in Domestic 
Science, followed by the preparation of a 
salad or articles on the chafing dish, has 
been prepared. 

For terms, dates, etc., address 

Mrs. Janet M. Hill, 372 Boylston Si. 
Boston, Mass. 

Care of Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



DOMESTIC SCIENCE 

nonie=Study Courses 

Foodt health, housekeeping, clothing, children. For home- 
aaakers, teachers and for well-paid positions. 
"The Profession of Home-Making," 100-page handbook. 
FREE. Bulletins: "Free Hand Cooking on Scientific 
Principles," 48 pages, lo cents. "Food Values: Practical 
ilethods in Dietetics," 32 pp., ill., lo cents. 

American School of Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, III. 



His Confession 

In a burst of penitence little Freddie 
was telling his mother what a wicked boy 
he had been. 

"The other day, mama," he said, "I 
found the church door unlocked and I 
went inside. There wasn't anybody there 
and I — •" 

"You didn't take anything away, did 
you, son?" she asked. 

"Worse than that; I—" 

"Did you mutilate the hymn-books or 
play any tricks of that kind?" 

"Oh, lots worse than that, mama," 
sobbed Freddie. "I went and sat down 
in the amen corner and said 'Darn it.' " — 
The Housekeeper. 



An English clergyman was telling of 
a joke on board the steamship. "There 
were three of us standing on the deck 
together. I turned to one of my com- 
panions, a Scotchman, and asked him, 
'What would you be, were you not a 
Scot?' He said, 'Why, an Englishman, 
of course !' Then I turns me to my other 
companion, a gentleman from Ireland, — 
and I asked him, 'And what would you 
be, were you not an Irishman?' The 
chap thought a moment, looked out over 

J the heaving billows, and said, 'I'd be 

'ashamed of meself !' " 



Chestnuts, Chantilly 

Slice one or two preserved chestnuts 
flavored with vanilla into a glass; add 
a large spoonful of whipped cream 
sweetened slightly and flavored to taste; 
make a depression in the top and fill 
with a chestnut and maraschino cherry, 
each cut in slices. A cup of cream 
sweetened with a scant fourth a cup of 
sugar will be enough for four or five 
glasses. 




Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Exquisite Desserts 

and 

Delicious 
Ice Cream 

Made With 

Junket Tablets 

Your grocer or druggist sells them 
or we mail postpaid ten tablets to 
make ten quarts for 10 cents and 
give you the charming brochure 
"Junket Dainties" free. 

CHR. HANSEN'S 
LABORATORY 



Box 2507. 



Little Falls, N. Y. 




^ 






Gives New Life to Silver i 

Does your silver look dull and old ? USE 

CUECTRo 

Silicon 

and note the transformation. It will be thor- 
oughly clean and possess an exquisite lustre — 
all without the least scratching or marring. 
Easy to use, economical and reliable. Free 
front any injurious substance. Send address for 

FREE SAMPLE 

Or 15c. in stamps for full sized box post-paid. 

The Electro Silicon Co., 30 Cliff Street. New York. 

Sold by Grocers and Druggists Everywhere. 




Rae's Lucca Oil 

"THE PERFECTION OF OLIVE OIL" 



THE VERY FINEST QUALITY 

or 

PURE OLIVE OIL 



SOLD IN BOTTLES AND TINS 
OF VARIOUS SIZES 



S. RAE & CO. 

LEGHORN, TUSCANY, ITALY 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 

XXV 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



''Cleanliness 
is next to 
Godliness" 



Sectional Vie'v 
Showing Con-^ 
struction 



GENUINE 

HUNTER'S SIFTER 

The Standard for a ^uarter=Centurp 

Combines strength, beauty, usefulness and 
durability. Cleanliness alzvays possible. 
Made in one piece of extra heavy tin-plate, 
nickel trimmings. Handle swedged to 
body, no soldered joints to come loose. A 
pleasure to remove all parts for cleansing 
and scalding. 

If your dealer can't supply the GENUINE 
HUNTER'S SIFTER, send his name and 20c for 
sifter postpaid. 

THE FRED J. MEYERS MFG. CO. 
1514 Beader Street Hamillon. Ohio 



.^^^!^M^ 



■MK 



WW 

OBI/ATINB 

IF you like gelatine desserts, here's one 
that will delight you. If you don't 
like gelatine, you will have to when 
you try this. 

Sample Free ma^'onephit. 

No guessw^ork in preparing it. No 
failure in results. It conies all ready 
measured for you. Four envelopes in 
each regular or full-size package. Each 
envelope contains exactly and always 
the quantity to make one pint. Whole 
package makes 5^ gallon. Dissolve 
in boiling water or milk, 
add sugar, fruit or flavor, 
cool and serve. Simple, 
i,»-^.„.— .^.. isn't it? Minuteman on 
y^ %^ \\ every package. 

Send us to-day your grocer's 
name and ask for sample to 
make one pint and Ifinute- 
pnar, Jook Book— both free. 



G1 



MINUTE TAPIOCA CO. 
'1 W. Main St., Orange, M 



Wheat Griddle Cakes 



1 cake Fleischmann's 

yeast 
1 cup milk, scalded 

and cooled 

1 cup lukewarm water 

2 cups sifted flour 



2 eggs 

2 tablespoonfuls lard 

or butter, melted 
2 tablespoonfuls light 

brown sugar 
1 teaspoonful salt 



Dissolve yeast and sugar in luke- 
warm liquid. Add lard or butter, then 
flour gradually, the eggs well-beaten,, 
and salt. Beat thoroughly until bat- 
ter is smooth. Cover and set aside for 
about one hour, in a warm place, free 
from draft, to rise. When light, stir 
well and bake on hot griddle. 

If wanted for over night, use one- 
fourth cake of yeast and an extra half 
teaspoonful salt. Cover and keep in a 
cool place. 

Note. — All batter cakes are better baked 
on an ungreased griddle, as they rise and 
keep their shape, and do not follow the grease. 
You will be rid of the disagreeable smoke 
and the odor of burning fat. Your griddle 
need not necessarily be of soapstone. If you 
have an old griddle and clean it thoroughly^ 
being sure to remove all burned fat or batter, 
it can be used in the above way. 



Characteristic 

He was quite evidently from the coun- 
try and he was also quite evidently a 
Yankee, and from behind his bowed spec- 
tacles he peered inquisitively at the little 
oily Jew who occupied the other half of 
the car seat with him. 

The little Jew looked at him depreca- 
tingly. "Nice day," he began politely. 

"You're a Jew, ain't you." queried the 
Yankee. 

"Yes, sir, I'm a clothing salesman — "" 
handing him a card. 

"But you're a Jew ?" 

"Yes, yes, I'm a Jew," came the 
answer. 

"Well," continued the Yankee, "I'm a 
Yankee, and in the little village in Maine 
where I come from I'm proud to say 
there ain't a Jew." 

"Dot's why it's a village," replied the 
little Jew quietly. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



MRS. HILL'S 
COMPLETE COOli BOOK 




Over 700 Pages Illustrated Price $2.00 Net 

Will be sent postpaid, on receipt 
of $2.00, or to any address as a 
premium for four (4) yearly subscrip- 
tions to the magazine at $ 1 .00 each 
Address all orders to 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE CO. 

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



I Will Develop Any 
Woman's 
Bust 

I Will Tell Any 
Woman Absolutely 
Free of Charge How 
to Do It Positively 
and Safely. 

Many women believe 
that the bust cannot be 
developed or brought 
back to its former vig- 
orous condition. Thou- 
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vainly used massage, 
electricity, pump, in- 
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general tonics, consti- 
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out results. 

Any Woman May Now Develop Her Bust 

I will explain to any woman the plain truth in regard 
to bust development, the reason for failure and the way 
to success. The Mdme. Du Barrie Positive French 
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young, middle aged or elderly— may develop her bust 
from 2 to 8 inches in 30 days, and see definite results in 
3 to 5 days, no matter what the cause of lack of devel- 
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This method has been ueed in Europe with astounding success, 
and has been accepted as the most positive method known. To any 
woman who will send a 2c stamp to pay postage, I will send a com- 
plete illustrated booklet of information, sealed in a plain envelope. 
Address 

Mdme. Du Barrie, Suite 2975 Quinlan Bids:.. Chicago 





! [ 



This has been made 
possible by the BISSELL 
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pounds, operates by a mere 
touch, cleans thoroughly with- 
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raises no dust, always ready, 
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BISSELL'S 

••Cyco" BALL-BEARING 

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excels all other cleaning devices in 
the work it does in the sewing room, 
dining room, or wherever there is a 
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matches, threads, ravelings, scraps 
of paper and cloth, etc. The 
"BISSELL" gives the Maximum 
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Bissell Carpet Sweeper Co. 

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Grand Rapids, Mich. 

(Largest and Only 
Exclusive Carpet 
Sweeper Makers 
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Good Things to Eat 

Can be quickly and easily made with 

Fleischmann*s Yeast 

Send for our new Cook Book and try some of the 
forty odd recipes that tell how to make baked goodies 



The Fleischmann Company 

701 Washington Street New York City 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
xxvii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




THE ONE BEST GIFT 



For Christmas, Birthday cr Wedding 

Bride, maid or matron-any woman will warmly welcome a Pied- 
mont Sourhcrn Red Cedar' Wardrobe Couch. Built of fragrant 
Southern Red Cedar with finely upholstered top and lid with self- 
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and damp. Send for free booklet, "The Story of Red Cedar" and 
big catalog sbowinir full line of couches, chifforobes and chests. 
Shipped DIRECT FROM FACTORY AT FACTORY PRICES ON" 
1.5 DAYS FREE TRIAL. All freight charges prepaid by us. 
Write us todav. 
PIEDMONT RED CEDAR CHEST CO., Dept. 74 StatesvUlC; N. C. 




MAGIC COVER 

lagic Cover for Pastry Board and Rollinff Pin; chemically 
reated and hygienic: recommended by leading teachers ol 
booking. By mail. 60c. 

B. F. MACY 

Formerly of F. A. WALKER & CO., the Oldest Kitchen Store in New England 
410 Boylston Si., Boston, Mass. 



PREMIUMS FOR SEVEN SUBSCRIPTIONS 

To any present subscriber who sends us seven (7) new yearly subscriptions at $ 1 .00 each, we 
will send either the CHAFER or the CASSEROLE (both for 14 subscriptions) de- 



Our Offer! 



scribed below as a premium for securing and sending us 
the subscriptions. E,xpress charges to be paid by the 
receiver. 



Every One "WHo Has Received One 

of tHese CKaiin^ DisKes Has 

Been Delig'Kted WitK It 

and surprised how easily the necessary subscriptions 
were secured. Have yon obtained one yet? If not, 
start today to get the subscriptions, and within three or 
four days you will be enjoying the dish. 

The Chafer is a full-size, three pint, nickel dish, with 
all the latest improvements, including handles on the hot 
water pan. It is the dish that sells for $5.00. 





«ii§^i 



Address 





Long slow cooking, at a gentle heat, 
best conserves the nutritive elements 
of food and the flavors that render it 
most agreeable. The earthen Casserole 
makes this method possible. Then, 
too, the Casserole is the serving as 
well as the cooking dish. The house- 
keeper who is desir!ous of setting a 
pleasing table without an undue ex- 
penditure of time or money will find 
a Casserole almost indispensable. 



The Casseroles We Offer 

are made by one of the leading man- 
ufacturers of the country for their 
regular trade. The dish is a three- 
pint one, round, eight inches in dia- 
meter, fitted with two covers, (an 
earthenware cover for the oven and a 
nickel plated one for the table) and 
a nickel plated frame. It is such an 
outfi t as retails for five or six dollars. 



The Boston Cooking School Magazine, Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
xxviii 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




package 

arlcy 

AND DESSERT 

FOODS 
AND Liver Troublu 



mple, write 

v., U.S.A. 



Housewives ^^Sll'liJ^ar Stepsaver 

In serving meaig. Chie trip wuh Wiipe. T ray sets tahie. 
Another completely clears It Tliit* table on whee' moves 
sasily anywhere you want it. Ilcij^htSlin Removable 
cvaltrays, 23in,by2Hiii. and 21 in. by 2»ii '..extrs heavy 
steel. 8in. rubber tire wheals. G'"se black japan finich. 
Price$|0, express n-'ii'id. $|2 t<> Pacific Coast. 
Write for circu.ar and learn lu cunvenieuce. 



Wheel-Tray Co. 435 G West 61st Place, Chicago 



MARTHA STEPHENS WILL HELP YOU 

Why not give a little of your time to her. Slie pays well. 
Her preparations are nxcellent and appeal to every vvoman. 
A postal brirgs particulars. Stephens Sales Co., Dept. C, 
Homevpood, I'ittsburgh, Pa. 




There are many very novel and dainty 
dishes, nourishing and delicious, that can be 
prepared with these ideally sweet food-fruit 
ofiFerings of the Orient — 

piomedapDates 






From the Garden o| Eden 



Dromedary Dates come in dust-proof cartons, with the dates 
wrapped in waxed paper. This keeps them fresh and sweet and 
moist for months, even years. Sold by most grocers and fruiterers, 
or a special-sized sample packag'e \^ill be sent on receipt of 10c. 

NOVEL COOK BOOK FREE. It has just been issued and con- 
tains 100 prize recipes for the delicious and wholesome dain- 
ties possible of making; with Dromedary Dates, Currants, 
Cocoanut, etc. In requesting book mention the name of dealer 
from whom you usually buy your dried fruits. 

THE HILLS BROS. CO., Depi. G , Beach and Washington Sis . New York 



PREMIUMS 



THE goods offered here are not so called premium goods, but are of standard 
make and are the identical pieces found in the best jewelry and house fur- 
nishing stores. ^We offer these only to present subscribers for securing and 
sending us new yearly subscriptions at $1.00 each. 




Sixteen inch plank and nickel plated holder. For meat 
or fish, but not for both with the same plank. 

The food is cooked on the plank, and the plank placed 
in the holder just before serving. 

This is one of the handsomest and most useful table 
pieces ever devised. 

Would make a suitable wedding or Christmas present, 
and there is no woman in the land who would not be 
proud to posses this. 

Bent, esipress collect, for eight (8) subscriptions. 

An additional plank will be sent as premium for two 

(2) additional subscriptions. Then you have 

one plank for meat and one for fish. 

ADDRESS 




Almost everyone nowadays uses a coffee 
percolator. If you do not, here is a chance 
to get a good one. 

Three pint Alluminum Percolator of the 
very best make. None better — only larger. 

Sent, express collect, for six (6) 
subscriptions. 



The Boston Cooking School Magazine, Boston, Mass, 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



^ugg^tnttH for dlfrtBtmas ^xfU 

WOULD not many of your friends to whom you will make Christmas Qifts be more pleased 
with a year's subscription to THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 
than with any other thing of equal cost you could send them ? 
The Magazine will be of practical use to the recipient 365 Sj|isi^^^^|^^^^^^^%| 
days in the year and a constant and pleasant reminder of the "" 
donor. 

To make this gift more complete, we will send the December 
number so as to be received the day before Christmas, together 
with a card reading as per cut herewith : 

The card is printed in two colors on heavy stock and 
makes a handsome souvenir. 



uilll br ami lo gmi for onr ii 

firrnnhfr Uaur. •i^ J^ J0 J0 




You, yourself, 
you know, will 
be entitled to 
the premiums 
offered in this 
and previous 
magazines 
for sending 
in NEW sub-, 
scriptions. 





Send in your 
dollar (or 
dollars) at 
once. The ma- 
gazines and 
cards will be 
sent so as to 
be received 
the day before 
Christmas. 



SALADS SANDWICHES 

•AND- 

CHAFING DISH DAINTES 




JANET H'Waail HILL 

fDfTOR B05TM COOMXC XHML H/«JC*£ 



The Best Complete Cook 
Book yet published. 



Mrs. Hill's latest Book 
Full of good things. 



No one who uses a chafing 
dish or entertains can afford 
to do without this book. 



$2.00 



Perhaps you had rather presf : . one of Mrs. 
Hill's books, or a book and a year's subscription 
to the magazine. 

The books will be sent POSTPAID to- 
gether with card, on receipt of price: 
"Practical Cooking and Serving" for.. . . 
"Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-dish 

Dainties" for 

"The Up-to-date Waitress" for 

"Cooking for Two" for 

"The Book of Entrees" for 

IX COMBINATIOX 
The Magazine for one year and "Prac- 
tical Cooking and Serving" for 

The Magazine for one year and an}- one 

of the $1.50 books for '. . . . . 

The Magazine for one year and any two 

of the books for 

The Magazine for one year and any three 

of the books for 

The Magazine for one year and any four The ^Magazine for one year and all five 

booksfor $6.25 books for $7.50 

The Books and Magazine may be sent to the same or to different addresses 

No premiums are given on these combination offers, and the subscription to the magazine must 

be a NEW one. Send in your order at once. The books will be sent so as to be received the 

day before Christmas. 

Send all 
Orders to 




Of interest to every woman 
whether she keeps no ser- 
vant, one servant, or a 
dozen, or is one herself. 




5.00 



An ideal gift for that 
young couple. 



The Boston Cooking - School Magazine, Boston, Mass. 



Bu3^ advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



A Beautiful Illustrated 



Catalogue Awaits Your 
Request 



Merchandise sent out for examination upon request. 

Willow Plumes 




Our Willow Plumes are guaranteed to be hand-knotted 
and made from the finest quality selected male stock. 

20 in. long, 18 in. wide, $ 8.50 

24 in. long, 2 1 in. wide, 1 2.50 

26 in. long, 22 in. wide, 15.0"^ 

Larger sizes shown in catalogue up to ^32.50 

French Curl Plumes 




Our beautiful French Curl Plumes are made from the 
finest selected male stock. They are wide, glossy and 
durable. 

14 inch, $3.00 16 inch, $5.00 18 inch, $6.00 
Larger ones shown in catalogue up to $25.00 

A complete line will be found on display at any of our 
retail stores. All goods are guaranteed to be absolutely 
satisfactory or money refunded. Catalogue mailed from 
and mail orders handled only at our main office and 
Factory. 

THF II T! IPT MANUFACTURERS 
iniL JKJlulILl, IMPORTERS 

28 1-2 W. 25th Street, New York City 

PHILADELPHIA, 207 Mint Arcade 
BROOKLYN, N. Y., 512 Fulton Street 
WASHTNGTON, 91.5 G Street, N. W. 
CLEVELAND, 1252 Euclid Ave, 




i he Ne^v^est Spoons \ 



The patterns illustrated above are 
unsurpassed in beauty by designs in 
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one-quarter to one-eighth the cost. 
In quality there is no other silver plate 
that equals the famous 



1847 ROGERS BROS, 



TRIPLE 



ware. This is the highest grade of triple plate. 
Our process of finishing closes the pores of the 
silver so that it is worked into a firm, hard sur- 
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of wear. This process has given 1847 ROGERS 
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"Silper Plate that Wears" 
Guaranteed by the largest makers in the 
world. For sale by leading dealers. Send 
for catalogue ** JC-8 •" 

MERIDEN BRITANNIA COMPANY 

(International Silver Co., Successor) 

Meriden, Conn. 



New York 
San Francisco 



Chicago 

Hamilton, Canada 



I . 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
xxxi 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 









The woman who loves 
note of these facts: 



flowers will do well to 



maKe a 



First: House plants should be given a 
bath, say, once a week. 

Make a weak suds of Ivory Soap and 
lukewarm water and, with a sponge or soft 
cloth, w^ash the leaves — both upper and 
under sides — of rubber plants, palms, ferns, 
century plants, etc. 

This w^ill open the pores in the leaves and 
permit the plants to breathe. They cannot 
breathe if the pores are clogged with dust. 

Second: Once a month, (oftener, if neces- 
sary) apply with an old whisk broom, a 
spray or a w^atering can, a fairly strong so- 



lution of Ivory Soap (made by dissolving 
half a cake, shaved fine, in a quart of boil- 
ing water, and adding four gallons of cold 
w^ater) to the stems and leaves of geraniums, 
carnations, etc. Rinse w^ith clear w^ater, 
half an hour later. 

This will rid plants of the insect pests 
that constantly assail them. 

Third: Pour Ivory Soap suds from the 
laundry or dish-pan around the roots of 
potted plants. This will bring to the sur- 
face, where they can be destroyed, all sorts 
of w^orms and bugs w^hich, if not interfered 
with, will kill or stunt the growth of plants. 



vory Soap .... 99t^o Per Cent. Pure 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept subMiiuic 
xxxii 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




SHAKESPEARE — Shakespeare, who dehghted Abraham Lincoln 
and inspired Edwin Booth — Shakespeare, about whose Hamlet more 
books have been written than about any historical figure that ever lived 
— Shakespeare, the greatest literary heritage of the English- 
speaking world — Shakespeare who '' occupies a throne apart 
in the ideal and immortal kingdom of 
supreme creative art, poetic genius, 
and dramatic truth " — Shakespeare 
you must have. 

Fashions in literature change; books 
come and go; Shakespeare abides. A 
set of the BOOKLOVERS EDITION means a small invest- 
ment with lifetime returns of profit and pleasure. 



usthavc 

kespeare 



Special Features 
Topical Index 

in which you can HimI instantly 
any desired passage in tlje plays 
and poems. 

Critical Comments 

on the plays and characters. 
They are selected from the 
writines of ivorld-famed Shalce- 
Bpearean scholars. 

Glossaries 

A complete one in each volume 
explaining every difficult, doubt- 
ful or obsolete word. 

Two Sets of Notes 

One for the general reader and a 
supplementary set for students. 

Arguments 

These give a condensed story of 
each play. 

Study Methods 

which furnish the equivalent of 
a college course of Shakespear- 
ean study. 

Life of Shakespeare 

by Dr. Israel (iollancz, with criti- 
cal essays Ijy Walter Bagehot. 
Leslie Stephen. Thomas Spencer 
Baynes and Itichard Grant White 




Booklovers Edition 



40 Handy Volumes (7x5 in.)— 7,000 Pages— 400 Illustrations 
^^ Every Word Shakespeare Wrote'' 

The BOOKLOVERS is admittedly the best Shakespeare for the general reader — for 
those who have no opportunity to make Shakespearean scholarship their aim, but 
who do desire to read the plays with the fullest understanding. It is absolutely 
complete and unabridged. Each volume contains a complete play and all the notes, 
etc., that explain that play. These notes are the most complete and valuable ever 
offered to Shakespeare readers. The simplicity and clearness of this edition will ap- 
peal to every intelligent reader. The mere handling of these volumes affords a keen 
sense of satisfaction. There are 40 dainty volumes of great beauty, 7 by 5 inches (just 
the size for easy handling), 7,000 pages in all; handsomely and durably bound in cloth 
and half-leather, with abundant illustrations, including 40 frontispieces in full colors. 
This is the *'last word" in Shakespeare editions for general use. A Western school 
principal well said: "If a friend should desire to make me a present of a fine Shakespeare 
and allow me to select the edition, I should beg him to give me the BOOKLOVERS." 

Entire Set Sent Free for Inspection 

The Coupon Brings It — ^No Money Now 

If you will fill out and promptly return coupon attached to this advertisement we shall 
be glad to send you a complete forty- volume set of the BOOKLOVERS SHAKESPEARE 
for your inspection, all charges paid. We ask for no money now. We allow you ample 
time for a careful examination of the set in your own home. If you are satisfied that 
the BOOKLOVERS SHAKESPEARE is without a peer, retain possession of the set 
and send us only ^i.oo. The balance may be paid at the rate of $2.00 a month un- 
til the purchase price has been paid. If, for any reason, you should chance to 
decide not to retain the books, they may be sent back at our expense. Ihere 
is no expense and no risk on your part. 



B. C. S. 
11-11 



Send the Coupon Now 



The 

University 
Society 
New^ York 



It Will Cost You Nothing 



Fill out and mail this coupon now, so as not to miss this 
chance. The regular agent's price of the BOOKLOVERS 
EDITION has been $58.00 You can get a set now for 
S31.00 and have the privilege of paying for it in small 
monthly installments. Many bargain hunters respond 
to our advertisements, and in order to avoid possi- 
ble disappointment, we urge you to forward the 
coupon at once. The coupon is not an order " 
any sense; but simply a request for inspection. ^^ Name 
It does not obligate you in any way. 



You may send, prepaid, 
for my exam.ination,a setof 
theBOOKLOVERS SHAKE- 
SPEARE in half -leather bind- 
ing at your special price of $31.00. 
If the books are satisfactory I shall 
pay yov. $1.00 within five days after 
their receipt, and $2.00 each month 
thereafter for 15 months. If they are not, 
I shall notify you. 



The University Society 

44-60 E. 23d St., New York 



A ddress .....' 

(If you prefer cloth, change 15 mos. to 12) 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

Vol. XVI NOVEMBER, 1911 No. 4 



CONTENTS FOR NOVEMBER 

PAGE 

MENU FOR A THANKSGIVING DINNER 162 

RAISING TURKEYS FOR THANKSGIVING A Woman 

(Illustrated) .163 

THANKSGIVING DAY . IN THE MORNING 

Mrs. Charles Norman 167 

SEEIN' THINGS Helen Coale Crew 170 

AUTUMN REVERIES Edith C. Lane 173 

THE MISUNDERSTANDING OF MAYBERRY 

Ruth Hall Johnson 174 

THE USE OF NAPKINS Kate Gannett Wells 176 

PINK LUSTRE Alix Thorn 178 

THANKSGIVING Lalia Mitchell 182 

EDITORIALS 182 

SEASONABLE RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone engravings 

of prepared dishes) Janet M.Hill 185 

MENUS FOR A WEEK IN NOVEMBER . " '' '' 194 

MENUS FOR THANKSGIVING DAY ....'' " - 195 

LESSONS IN ELEMENTARY COOKING, Mary Chandler Jones 196 
NOVEL IDEAS FROM LEADING CAFES 

Julia Davis Chandler 198 

THE VERANDA GIRLS, Part II .... Virginia Church 201 

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 203 

When to Shirk — A New Filling for a Holiday Cake — A Fishing Party— 
A ]\Iagazine Bazaar, etc, 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 207 

NEW BOOKS XVIII 

MISCELLANEOUS XXII 



$1.00 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 10c. A COPY 

Four Years' Subscription, $3.00 

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter. Copyright, 1911, by 

THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY 
3 72 BOYLSTON STREET BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

Please Renew on Receipt of the Colored Blank Enclosed for that Purpose 

ii 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Naturally Ca,reful|y Perfectly 
vPure >^acked\ Wholesome 




Cottolene 



Cottole?te is packed in patent, air-tight tin pails (never 
in bulk) and no dirt, odors, or other contamination 
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are always guaranteed, and any grocer who sells it will 
refund your money if you are not wholly satisfied with it. 

There are thousands of Cottolene users in the country 
who would never let lard or any other substitute enter 
their kitchen. 

Cottolene is purer, more healthful, more economical than 
lard or any other cooking fat. Prove it by a trial. 

Made only ty THE N. K. FAIRBANK COMPANY 

Shortens Your Food — Lengthens 

Your Life 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 

iii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



YOUR CHOICE 

If you have poorly flavored food it is your 
own fault ; you can have the best spices and 
flavoring extracts by insisting upon having 




In most places you have to pay just as much 
for poor stuff as you would for Slade's. 
Don't blame the grocer, for if you are not 
particular, why should he care? 

Ask for Slave's and see that what }^ou get 
bears the name of 

D. & L. SLADE CO., BOSTON 



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INDEX FOR NOVEMBER page 

Autumn Reveries 173 

Editorials 182 

Home Ideas and Economies . . . ' . 203 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking . . . 196 

Menus for November 194-195 

Novel Ideas from Cafes 198 

Pink Lustre 178 

Raising Turkeys, 111 163 

Seein' Things 170 

Thanksgiving Day in the Morning . . 167 

Thanksgiving 182 

The Misunderstanding of Mayberry . . 174 

The Use of Napkins 176 

The Veranda Girls 201 



Seasonable Recipes 



193 
192 
189 

185 



190 
186 
186 



Apples, Duchesse Style, 111 

Bavariose, Apple with Jelly, 111. 
Brioche for Vol-au-Vent, 111. 
Caviare Slices, Remoulade .... 
Celery, Creamed, with Poached Egg 

111 

Chicken Poeled, 111 

Chicken or Turkey, Left-over, 111. . 

Consomme, Lilienne 185 

Consomme, Mancelli 185 

Dumplings, Rolled Apple, 111. ... 191 
Macaroni, with Tomatoes and Peppers 190 

Macaroni Souf!le 190 

Meringue of Rice and Pears, 111. . . 193 
Rolls, Peanut-butter and Fruit, 111. . 192 

Sherbet, Muscovite 193 

Tongue, Braised Beef, with Spinach, 111. 187 
Tongue, Salad of, with Spinach . . 187 

Tongue Sandwiches 188 

Tongue in Aspic Jelly, 111 188 

Queries and Answers : 

Cake, Coffee 208 

Aspic, Delicate Chicken 208 

Jelly, Cranberry 207 

Jelly, Regarding Aspic 207 

Jelly, Gelatine in Aspic . ^ . . . . 207 

Jelly, Recipe for 208 

Marmalade, Orange 208 

Apples, Baked in Jelly .... 
Broth, Recipe for Standard 
Cake, Ten Pound Fruit .... 

Consomme 

Dressing, Mayonnaise x 

Sauce, Tartare for Fish x 

Sauce, Tomato for Meats .... x 

Sauce, Baked Beans xii 

Soup, Regarding Stock xii 



X 

xiv 

X 

xiv 



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iv 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



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OOKING FOR TWO is designed to give in simple and concise 

style, those things that are essential to the proper selection and 

preparation of a reasonable variety of food for a family of tw® 

individuals. At the same time by simply doubling the quantity of eacli 

ingredient given in a recipe, the dish prepared will serve four or mor® 

people. 

The food products considered in the recipes are such as the house<^ 
keeper of average means would use on every day occasions, with a geii° 
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those with little experience in cooking, while every housekeeper will find it contains much thiit 
m. new and helpfuL 

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We will send " Cooking for Two " postpaid on receipt of price ; or to a present 
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The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co., Boston, Massachusetti 






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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Books on Household Economics 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE presents the fol- 
lowing as a list of representative works on household economics. Any 
of the books will be sent postpaid upon receipt of price. 
With an order amounting to $5 or more we include a year's subscription 
to THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE (price $1.) The 
MAGAZINE must be sent, however, to a new subscriber. 

The books will be sent as premiums for securing new subscriptions to 
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE as follows: any book 
listed at not more than fifty cents will be sent postpaid to a present sub- 
scriber on receipt of one new yearly subscription at $1 ; for two subscrip- 
tions we will send postpaid any $\ book; for three subscriptions any $1.50 
book ; and so on in like ratio. 

Special rates will be made to schools, clubs and persons wishing a num- 
ber of books. Write for quotation on the list of books you wish. 



A-B-Z of Our Own Nutrition. Hor- 
ace Fletcher 1.00 

Air, Water and Food. Richards and 

Woodman 2.00 

American Salad Book. M. DeLoup ..$1.00 
Art and Practice of Laundry Work. 

Rankin 75 

Art of Home Candy-making (with 

thermometer, dipping wire, etc.) 3.00 

Art of Right Living. Richards .50 

Baby, The. A book for mothers and 

nurses. D. R. Brown, M. D 1.00 

Bacteria, Yeasts and Molds in the 

Home. H. W. Conn 1.00 

Blue Grass Cook Book. Minnie C. Fox 2.00 
Book of Entrees. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 
Book of Good Manners. Kingsland 1.50 
Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln . 2.00 
Boston Cooking School Cook Book. 

Fannie M. Farmer 2.00 

Boston School Kitchen Text Book. 

Mary J. Lincoln 1.00 

Bread and Bread-making. Mrs. Rorer .50 
Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott .50 
Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer .50 
Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer . .50 
Care and Feeding of Children. L. E. 

Holt, M. D 75 

Care of a Child in Health. N. Oppen- 

heim 1.25 

Care oi a House. T. M. Clark 1.50 

Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln .60 
Century Cook Book. Mary Roland . . . 2.00 
Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn 1.50 
Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattien 

Williams 1.50 

Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning. 

Richards and Elliot 1.00 

Chemistry of Food and Nutrition. 

Sherman 1.50 



Clean Milk. S. D. Belcher 1.00 

Cleaning and Renovating. E. G. Osman .75 
Color, Harmony and Contrast. James 

Wood 4.20 

Complete Home, The. Clara E. Laugh- 

lin , 1.25 

Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill . .75 
Cookery, Its Art and Practice. Thu- 

dichum 1.40 

Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Cost of Cleanness. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Food. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Living. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Shelter. Richards 1.00 

Dainties. Mrs. Rorer 35 

Desserts — One Hundred Recipes. By 

Fillipini 30 

Diet in Relation to Age and Activity. 

Sir Henry Thompson 1.00 

Dietetic Value of Bread. John Good- 
fellow 1.50 

Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell 2.50 

Dictionary of Foods and Culinary En- 
cyclopaedia. Senn 1.00 

Domestic Science. Ida Hood Clark . . 1.50 
Domestic Science in Elementary 

Schools. Wilson 1.00 

Domestic Service. Lucy M. Solomon 2.00 

Dust and Its Dangers. Prudden 75 

Economics of Modern Cookery. M. M. 

Mollock 1.00 

Elements of the Theory and Practice 

of Cookery. Williams and Fisher . . 1.00 
Eggs — One Hundred Recipes. Fillipini .30 
European and American Cuisine. Mrs. 

Lemcke 2.00 

Euthenics. Richards : . . 1.00 

Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer . 1.50 
Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed . . 1.00 
First Lessons in Food and Diet 30 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Fish — One Hundred Recipes for Cook- 
ing Fish. Fillipini 30 

First Principles of x^ursing. Anne R. 

Manning 1.00 

Food and Cookery for the Sick and 

Convalescent. Fannie M. Farmer . . 1.50 
Food and Dietaries. R. W. Burnett, 

M. D 1.50 

Food and Feeding. Sir Henry Thomp- 
son 1.35 

Food and Its Functions. James Knight 1.00 
Food in Health and Disease. I. B. Yeo, 

M. D 2.50 

Food Materials and their Adultera- 
tions. . Richards 1.00 

Food Products of the World. Mary E. 

Green • 1.50 

French Dishes for American Tables. 

Pierre Caron 1.00 

French Household Cooking. Keyser . . .60 
Fuels of the Household. Marian White .75 
Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes 

for Meatless Dishes). Sharpe 2.00 

Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 4.00 
Handbook of Hospitality for Town 

and Country. Florence H. Hall . . . 1.50 
Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary 

A. Boland 2.00 

Handbook on Sanitation. G. M. Price, 

M. D 1.50 

Healthful Farm House, The. Helen 

Dodd 60 

Home Candy Making. Mrs. Rorer ... .50 

Home Economics. Maria Parloa 1.50 

Home Economics Movement 75 

Home Nursing. Harrison 1.00 

Home Problems from a New Stand- 
point 1.00 

Home Sanitation. Richards and Talbot .25 
Home Science Cook Book. Anna Bar- 
rows and Mary J, Lincoln 1.00 

Homes and their Decoration. French 3.00 
Hostess of Today. Linda Hull Earned 1.50 

Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50 

Household Economics. Helen Camp- 
bell 1.50 

Household Science. Juniata L. Shep- 

perd 1.75 

How to Cook Fish. Olive Green . . . 1.00 
How to Cook for the Sick and Conval- 
escent. H. V. Sachse 1.00 

Kow to Feed Children. Louise E. Ho- 

gan 1.03 

How to Use a Chafing Dish. Mrs. 

Rorer 25 

Human Foods. Snyder 1.25 

Institution Recipes. Smedley 1.00 

International Cook Book. Fillipini . . 4.80 

Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50 

Laundry Manual. Balderston and 
Limerick 50 



Laundry Work. Juniata L. Shep- 

perd 60 

Louis* Salad and Chafing Dishes. 

Muckensturm 50 

Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.40 

Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50 

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. Mrs. 

Rorer 35 

Menu Book and Register of Dishes. 

Senn 2.50 

Milk and Its Products. Wing 50 

My Best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer 50 

New Salads. Mrs. Rorer 50 

Nursing, Its Principles and Practice. 

Isabel H. Robb 2.00 

Nutrition of Man. Chittenden 3.00 

Old Time Recipes for Home Made 

Wines. Helen S. Wright 1.50 

One Woman's Work for Farm Women .50 

Paper Bag Cookery. Soyer 60 

Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving. 

i.irs. Mary F. Henderson 1.50 

Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs. 

Janet M. Hill 2.00 

Practical Dietetics. Gilman Thompson 5.00 
Practical Points m Nursing. Emily A. 

M. Stoney 1.75 

Practical, Sanitary, and Economic 

Cooking. Mary Hinman Abel 40 

Principles of Home Decoration. Can- 
dace Wheeler 1.80 

Proper Feeding of the Family. Gibbs. .25 

Quick Soups. Mrs. Rorer 25 

Register of Foods 1.00 

Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book 2.00 

Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish 

Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Sanitation in Daily Life. Richards . . .60 
Sewing Course for Schools. Wool- 
man 1.50 

Story of Germ Life. H. W. Conn 35 

Sunday Night Suppers. Christine 

Terhune Herrick 1.00 

The Up-to-date Waitress. Mrs. Janet 

M. Hill 1.50 

The Woman Who Spends. Bertha J. 

Richardson 1.00 

Till the Doctor Comes, and How to 

Help Him 1.00 

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substi- 
tutes. Mrs. Rorer 1.50 

Vegetarian Cookery. A. G. Payne ... .50 
With a Saucepan Over the Sea. Ade- 
laide Keen 1.50 

Women and Economics. Charlotte Per- 
kins Stetson 1.50 

Woman's Share in Primitive Culture. 

Otis J. Mason 1.75 

World's The, Commercial Products . . 3.60 



ADDRESS ALL ORDERS 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., BOSTON, MASS. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
vii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




Proved the Best Shortening 
by Generations of Cooks 



In the old days, when every woman took 
pride in being a skillful cook, pure leaf 
lard was the only shortening she would 
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The making of finest leaf lard was al- 
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Housewives had to ''try it out" for 
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But the results repaid them. 

For the fame of old-time breads, pies, 
doughnuts and cake has extended over 
two or three generations. 

Millions of modern housewives have 
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They know that finest leaf lard, better 
than even the old fashioned homemade 
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grandmother's table. 



For ** Simon Pure'' Leaf Lard, made only 
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While it costs a trifle more than just 
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much. 

Comes only in pails, with Armour's 
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Buffet Suppers for Christmas 

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There is no grace of the soul more attractive and more useful than cheerfulness. 



I 

Oyster Patties 

Chicken Croquettes, Asparagus Peas 

Cold Boiled Tongue, Aspic Jelly 

Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Buttered Rolls 

Pistachio Ice Cream, Cherry Garnish or 

Claret Sauce 

Little Cakes Coffee 

Bonbons Nuts 

II 

Creamed Halibut in Paper Cases 

Cold Roast Turkey, Sliced Thin 

Salmon or Lobster Salad 

Tiny Baking Powder Biscuit 

Assorted Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Olives Celery 

Chocolate Squares with Cocoanut 

Lady Fingers 

Coffee Bonbons Mints Salted Nuts 

Coffee 



The 
Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



Vol XVI 



DECEMBER, 1911 



No. 5 



1 




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^Q 



LIBRARY OF A LITERARY MAN IN SUMMER COTTAGE 

The Library 

By Mary H. Northend 



"My library 
Was dukedom large enough." 

(The Tempest). 

TO the busy man who loves his 
books, the seclusion of the lib- 
rary makes it the place of all 
others in the house v^here he may find 



the fullest comfort and relaxation from 
routine and care and, undisturbed, absorb 
himself in what most interests him. The 
hall is more or less public ; in it he wel- 
corhes the coming and speeds the parting 
guests. The living-room, as the real 
center of family life, belongs to children 



211 



212 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



and grown-ups alike, and is not a place 
where one may withdraw with any sense 
of privacy. In the dining-room, the 
busy man is occupied with his family or 
entertaining friends. It is in the library 
that he finds an atmosphere of quiet and 
separation from the complex life of the 
rest of the household. 

While the workroom librar}^ of a man 
of letters needs greater seclusion and 
separation from other rooms than does 
the library designed for the mere pleas- 
ure of the owner in his books, yet the 
latter should be kept as far as possible 
aloof from the bustle and distraction of 
the common life of the family, if it is 
to serve its purpose. 

The library which is not a much used 
room has no excuse for existence and the 
space devoted to it would better be 
thrown into the living-room or some 
other part of the house. 

As. Andrew Lang has said, "By the 
library we do not understand a study 
where no one goes, and where the master 
of the house keeps his boots, an assort- 
ment of walking-sticks, the 'Waverly 
Novels,' 'Pearson on the Creed.' 'Hume's 



Essays,' and a collection of sermons." 
Such a conception is as dead as the lib- 
rary so characterized. 

Nor is the idea of most of us like that 
of Madame Du Barry, who decided it 
was fashionable to own a library and 
ordered a bookseller to provide her with 
one. When this ''library" of one thou- 
sand volumes, bound in rose morocco and 
stamped with the noble arms of Du 
Barry, arrived at \^ersailles, Louis XV 
and his astonished Court little suspected 
that the contents of such gorgeous cov- 
erings were cheap "remainders," so- 
called by the trade, which the enterpris- 
ing bookseller had collected and so clev- 
erly disguised. 

Constant use is the best preservation 
for books. The user will demand a clean 
room kept at a normal temperature, and 
the light and air introduced into the room 
through proper ventilation will do much 
to prevent dampness, an enemy which 
brings in its train mildew and rotten,, 
loosened bindings. Excessive heat is 
likewise to be avoided as it causes covers 
to warp and the glued backs to become 
unfastened, especially those on the top 




PLAIN AND IN GOOD TASTE 



THE LIBRARY 



213 




LIBRARY AND SOMETIME RECEPTION-ROOM 



shelves where the temperature is highest. 
Although ample light must be provided 
for in the useful library, — both daylight 
and artificial light, — the volumes them- 
selves should not be exposed to direct 
sunlight, which will soon cause the backs 
to become faded. Closed cases are un- 
doubtedly a help in regulating the rava- 
ges of dust, dampness, sunlight and ex- 
cessive heat, but we generally prefer to 
keep those books in constant use on open 
shelves, reserving the glass-door cases 
for the more richly-bound volumes. In 
either case frequent dustings are abso- 
lutely necessary to keep the books in 
good condition. 

As for the room itself, delicate color- 
ings in wall coverings and upholstery 
cannot be handled successfully in the 
library. The books themselves give the 
room its tone, and the furnishings should 
harmonize with their great dignity, pro- 
ducing an atmosphere of solidity and re- 
serve. Well-filled bookshelves matching 
wood-finished walls, or standing against 
any neutral background, such as burlap 
or some suitable fabric covering, form a 
most harmonious setting, with which 



comfortable chairs and substantial fur- 
nishings will best accord. 

Our first illustration is of the library in 
a literary man's summer home. The 
simple, straightforwad furnishing of the 
room is especially to be commended. It 
is, first of all, a workroom, and while 
planned to suit the demands of the own- 
er's use, comfort is not lacking to make 
this an ideal summer workroom. Walls 
sheathed in pine with bookcases all of 
even height, finished to match the walls, 
form a most restful background, and the 
lighting is particularly good, superfluous 
draperies being omitted, to admit all the 
light and air possible. 

There is often a waste of floor space in 
the library through using shelves unnec- 
essarily wide, generally ten inches or 
twelve inches, when eight inches would 
be ample. In our frontispiece is seen the 
splendid result obtained through a solid 
massing of books, and here the shelves 
are built to fit the width of the books, 
using to advantage every available inch 
of space. The more rarely bound vol- 
umes are kept in a closed case, with the 
open shelves fitted around it, and these 



214 



THE BOSTON COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



entirely cover the walls of the room ex- 
cept for the spaces occupied by two 
doors, the window and seat and the fire- 
place. No more effective background 
than these rows of beautiful bindings 
could be found for the richly carved desk 
and table. Dark overhead beams make 
a strong contrast with the white ceiling, 
while on each oaken corbel is a repro- 
duction of an ancient bookmark or coat- 
of-arms of some famous old publisher. 

If there is not so great an accumula- 
tion of books that they entirely line the 
walls from floor to ceiling, the height of 
the walls should govern the height of the 
bookcases. The effect of a wall cut 
exactly in two by the top of a bookcase 
is exceedingly ugly. The simple white- 
painted shelves, matching the wood trim 
of the room, in the third illustration are 
of pleasing height, the lower one reaching 
to the level of the window sill, and the 
higher case serving the purpose of in- 
creasing the apparent height of the low 
wall. 

Books are never shown to better advan- 
tage than when the case is of the simplest 
style. Whether it is an expensive paint- 
ed row of shelves or an elegant case of 



mahogany, the same rule holds true. The 
plain mahogany cases in the fourth illus- 
tration form a subdued but strong con- 
trast to the papered walls. The hangings 
are of green velours, matching the darker 
tone in the wall paper, and the same tones 
dominate in the rugs. This room is in 
contrast to the working library and to the 
library of the collector. There is some- 
what of the reception room atmosphere 
introduced in the furnishings, but they 
are so subdued in tone as to harmonize 
well with the library atmosphere as wxll. 
With bookcases which cover but one- 
third or two-thirds of the wall spaces 
there is danger of over-crowding the 
walls above with pictures, and of strew- 
ing photographs and bric-a-brac aimlessly 
over the tops of the cases. The library 
is more or less the house owner's Para- 
dise, for there is a certain joy in collect- 
ing which includes not only his books, 
but is inclined to extend into other fields 
as well. Although one cannot presume to 
dictate as to individual tastes in such a 
matter, too great an accumulation on the 
walls and top shelves will surely become 
a burden to care for and a distraction 
to the occupant of the library. 




LIBRARY AND RECEPTI 3X-ROOM IX CONCORD, MASS. 



GAME OF THE YULE-LOG 



215 



There is a strong simplicity about the 
generous Mission style fireplace in the 
fifth illustration which is well adapted to 
the library, and yet in this room there 
seems lacking a connecting link between 
the bookshelves and the fire. The small 
table is inadequate for so large a space. 
A large, substantial table is demanded in 
the library and is needed particularly 
here to harmonize with the large, com- 
fortable armchairs and the broad dimen- 



sions of the room itself. 

Given a room with well-stocked book- 
shelves, comfortable and substantial fur- 
niture, and an open fire, and one can 
wish for little else that can add much to 
the real value of the room as a library. 
We will agree with Johnson who said, 
"Books that you may carry to the fire, 
and hold readily in your hand, are the 
most useful after all." Fireside books 
have ever been deservedly popular. 



The Game of the Yule Log 

By Jean Wilde Hadlev 



IT was our turn, and they were all 
coming. Cousins from as far 
south as Virginia; two sets of 
grandpeople, and brother with his wife 
and five. 

And yet, it was so good to know that 
once again the family — all there were 
of us^ — would sit down to Christmas 
dinner together, that the work of prep- 
aration was lost in the love of it. 

The day before Christmas saw the 
house with a clean face and ordered 
garments, but the delights of decking 
with fir and holly was kept for the 
children's hands. In fact, all wanted 
a share in the decorative honors, if only, 
in the setting of a holly twig — the "holy 
I tree" — on the chimney shelf. 

"Get ivy and hull, 
Woman, deck up thine house." 

How joyous it all was, as the long shad- 
ows began to gather, and the charm of 
Christmas eve fell about us like a bless- 
ing. How good, too, the dear faces in 

i the ''feast of light," for only the soft 
gleam of candles was around us, while 

I in the wide hall burned the huge Christ- 
mas taper which must last till dawn; 

• emblem of the steadfast Star, to point 
the memory of this holy ''mother night." 
Mistletoe — its snowy berries witness- 
ing many an unsuspicious kiss — swung 



in the half light, while on the hearth we 
tried at fortunes with the leaves. In 
turn we placed two leaves upon the stone 
and named them for ourselves and one 
other. No, we did not always tell, and 
then we watched and saw the heat from 
the glowing logs draw the charmed tok- 
ens close and closer, or scatter far apart, 
and shrivel others to forgetfulness. 

And then about our necks we hung a 
tiny branch of mistletoe, swinging it on 
a ribbon, Christmas red. 'Twas a charm 
to keep off witches and the evil ones, on 
this strange holy night, when bees are 
said to sing, and at the midnight chime 
the cock awakes to crow, while in their 
stalls the cattle bow and kneel. 

The promise of the morrow's joys en- 
ticed the children to an early bedtime, 
and they chose, each, a Christmas star — 
a good-night taper, to light them up the 
broad stair in measured file and on to 
dreams of well filled stockings. 

And very early in the morning there 
was a sound of voices — children's voices 
— singing. A glad surprise it was, this 
carol at each chamber door. 

"Hark the herald angels sing," 

sang the children, till the answer grew 
from room to room, and doors were 
thrown wide to join in one glad welcome 
to the day of days. 



216 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Breakfast was a somewhat hurried 
meal when it was noised abroad that we 
were really going to bring in the Yule 
log. 

The tree had been marked some days 
before, a young oak, standing straight 
and tall within easy walking of the house. 

How proud we were of the Mother, 
always young, leading us the way with 
her children's children all about her, and 
the Christmas sun kissing her white hair. 
And we followed, eager searchers for 
the gifted "Yule-log," whose flame can 
bum out all old wrongs and brings the 
promise of a glad New Year. 

Grandsire marked the tree with the 
first blow, and then the boys laid it low, 
and bound the ropes about it. 

A joyous shout, with everyone a 
hand, and home we drew our Yule-log. 

"Welcome be ye that are here, 

Welcome all, and make good cheer ; 

Welcome all, another year. 

Welcome Yule." 

The tree lay in the open space before 
the house, and from the smaller branches 
fagots were soon bound by the younger 
hands, and piled in the huge woodbox 
for the evening's burning. Then the 
trunk was split, and from the heavy 
end a block was struck just large enough 
to fit the modern grate, but still our 
Yule-log — emblem of united homes and 
hearts. Our festal rites we kept till 
Christmas day was closing, for first must 
come the meal massive of the year — the 
"king of dinners." The long table gleam- 
ing with silver, glass and snowy linen, 
was laid for all, beaming and groaning 
with goodness as a Christmas table 
should. 

The center held a "Yule-log" which 
bears description. 

A single pillow roll of papier mache, 
with an opening half its length, was 
wrapped with dull brown crepe paper, 
and decked thickly at each end and sides 
with boughs of fir. Within the "log" 
were tiny gifts, each tied with brown 
paper and long red ribbons, which 
reached to every place. The top was 



laid with holly twigs, quite concealing 
its intent, until a merry tug of the 
streamers brought the contents to light. 

A unique manner of gift giving was in 
order, hence a course of snowballs and a 
holly pie. 

The balls were of white crepe paper, 
powered with glistening mica, the small 
gift within first wrapped in cotton. Piled 
temptingly on a silver tray the balls were 
passed from guest to guest just before 
the burning Christmas pudding claimed 
attention. 

With the nuts and oranges came the 
holly pie. In a huge pan of sawdust the 
gifts were buried. An upright spray of 
holly tied and marked each favor, while 
the pan was covered by broad bands and 
bows of red ribbon. 

The Children's Christmas tree was a 
delight. Unlighted it stood, bright with 
favors, oranges and bonbons. Each was 
blindfolded, turned three times, and 
pointed toward the tree, claiming the 
gift the fingers first chanced to touch. 

When night fell, the tree tapers were 
lighted, and outside the huge feast fire 
was started from the branches of our 
Yule tree. 

The log itself was ready for its en- 
trance, and we hailed it with our cheer- 
iest merriment, as the eldest born be- 
neath the roof tree brought it in upon 
his shoulders and crowned it king of 
feast and fireside on the broad hearth. 

"Part must be kept wherewith to teende 
The Christmas log next yeare, 
And where 'tis safely kept, the fiend 
Can do no michiefe theere." 

And so we kept a brand for next year's 
lighting. The fagots came next, and as 
they went upon the fire each told in 
turn of last year's doing, and while his 
fagot burned, of how the Christmas days 
were spent. Suddenly the room was 
filled with ruby light. 'Twas just a little 
tribute to our dear ones from the Sunny 
South whose Christmas celebration had 
always shared the honors of our Fourth. 
The red powder for the light was bound 
in the fagot, and the burning wood soon 



A LETTER TO SANTA CLAUS 



217 



brought its beauty to the blaze. ''Snap- 
dragon" was not forgotten, that oldest 
game of all Yule merrymaking. One 
must pluck a raisin, burning, from a 
spirit bath, and eat it flaming to insure 



good fortune through the coming days. 



"Yule's come, and Yule's gone, 
And we ha'e feasted weel ; 
Sae Jack maun to his flail again, 
And Jenny to her wheel." 



A Letter to 5anta Claus 



By Alix Thorn 



I JUST love your name," said 
Mildred, her brown eyes raised 
to the serious face of her young 
governess. ''J^^e is so dear, and it's so 
sort of simple, and — and different. You 
see. Miss Tilton, when I was a really 
little girl, oh, perhaps a year or so ago, 
I liked only long names with lots of let- 
ters in them, hard names to spell, such 
as, well — Hortense, and Marguerite, and 
— would you believe it — at one time I 
named every new doll Hildegarde ! Now 
I much prefer Jane to any other name." 

"I am very glad you approve my; 
name," smiled Mildred's governess; 
somehow I fancy it's partly because 
you seem to like your stern teacher," 
patting the little girl's shoulder affec- 
tionately as she spoke. 

"Like is the wrong word !" cried Mil- 
dred impulsively. "As I told Aunt Car- 
oline, only yesterday, Fd never loved a 
single one of my governesses before, and 
she said in such a proper way, you know 
how she talks, 'it's extremely fortunate 
your mother secured one so to your lik- 
ing.' She said. Aunt Caroline did, that 
you had an intelligent face." 

The intelligent face flushed warmly, 
and the grey eyes, darkened. "Your 
aunt is kind, indeed," she said, and fell 
to arranging her note books on her desk. 

"You are annoyed, dear Miss Tilton," 
began Mildred penitently. "I shouldn't 
have told you about Aunt Caroline. None 
of us are much fond of her, and, anyway, 
you and I are so intimate that it doesn't 
matter about other people." 



"It shouldn't matter, certainly," was 
the reply, "then, too, a governess should 
have an intelligent face; and now to 
work, childie, let me see that French 
exercise." 

Long after Mildred had left her the 
girl stood at the window of the de- 
serted schoolroom, looking down the 
snowy driveway, watching the big flakes 
dropping down out of the grey December 
sky and turning each trimly clipped little 
shrub into a minature Christmas tree. 
Only four years ago how differently she 
had faced the holiday season. Mirth 
and jollity had kept step with her, the 
future stretched rosily before her — and 
then, at New Year, her brother John's 
sudden death had so terribly transformed 
everything. 

"We needed him so, Dorothy and I," 
she whispered, with trembling lips, "oh, 
we did need him so." 

Early made an orphan, she had made 
her home, since leaving the finishing 
school, with her married brother and his 
young wife, a petted, desired member of 
their comfortable home, her second sea- 
son out, a social success, till one day the 
railroad accident that transformed two 
m.erry carefree girls into sad-eyed, black- 
robed women, forced to believe the un- 
believable, that out of their lives had 
gone the strong, self-reliant, protecting 
brother and husband, leaving but a piti- 
fully small life insurance. A pale, hope- 
less Dorothy had returned to her people, 
and Jane, after a too long visit to a 
distant cousin, had thankfully accepted 



218 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



the position of governess in the great 
stone house of the Worthingtons in a 
suburb of Philadelphia. 

Her one pupil was ten-year-old Alil- 
died, and from the first day she had 
won her loving allegiance. Mrs. Worth- 
ington was not so easy to deal with, her 
manner implying "thus far and no far- 
ther," evidently believing in keeping a 
young woman in her place, though treat- 
ing her, as she would have expressed it, 
"always justly." 

The sudden, shrill toot, toot of an au- 
tomobile sounded, and the Worthingtons' 
largest touring car slowed up at the porte- 
cochere, to deliver its load of laughing 
guests, the Christmas house party ex- 
pected to-day, two older women wearing 
wonderful furs, two girls, slim and viva- 
cious, one in black velvet, the other in 
wistaria broadcloth, and two burly men. 

Wistfully Jane Tilton, governess, peer- 
ing outside the gate, watched the gay 
party. She could imagine what they 
were saying, just how they were being 
welcomed by stately Mrs. W^orthington, 
who could be delightfully cordial when 
she so desired, and she was about to turn 
away when the animated voice of her 
pupil came to her ears, and she saw the 
small maiden accompanied by a tall, 
broad-shouldered man, coming up the 
winding path to the house. Both her 
white-gloved hands were clasped around 
his ulstered arm, and her animated face 
was looking up into his. Evidently they 
were on the best of terms, for his deep 
laugh sounded frequently .and they were 
making but slow progress. "That's the 
schoolroom,'' she heard Mildred say, 
"and Jane is her name.*' 

"What's that you're telling?" was her 
companion's reply. "The schoolroom's 
name is Jane! Explain yourself, my 
young friend ; you speak in riddles." 



'How absurd of 



vou 



I" 



pouted the 



child. "Why, Mr. Dick. Jane is the 
name of my governess; you knew what 
I meant all the time, and she is very 
prett;-. oh, very much prettier, / think, 
than any of the young ladies who visit 



us. Lovely dark hair, grey eyes — oh, 
well, w^ait till you see her." 

"I will reserve my decision until I do,'" 
remarked Mr. Dick, cheerfully, "though 
I have great belief in your judgment,'" 
and then the pair entered the house. 

"Serves me right for listening," mur- 
mured the girl at the window^— "but 
where, just where have I seen that man 
before? I have an odd feeling that 
once, hundreds of years ago, perhaps in 
some other existence, I've actually talked 
to him, and heard his deep laugh. Well, 
what does it matter, anyway? Chained 
to the schoolroom, utterly removed from 
all dear dehghts — get thee to exercises, 
Jane, and forget those things that are 
behind." 

"Did you see with whom I was walk- 
ing yesterday?" began Mildred next 
morning, as she came into the school- 
room, "he's been here twice before, his 
name is Mr. Richard Savery — I can't 
remember his middle name now, but you 
can see it all written out any day in the 
guest book. I heard Doris Newbold say 
that it's a name that would look mighty 
well on a visiting card. Now, wasn't that 
a funny remark?" 

"I think, Mildred, that it's high tim.e 
you and I settled down to lessons," re- 
marked her governess severely. "Did you 
say his name was Richard Savery ?" 

"Yes, Miss Tilton, that's his name and 
I never met a grown up man that I really 
liked before. You see, he treats me just 
as politely as if I were somebody, and 
most men who visit here just laugh at 
everything I say. Oh, it's very comfort- 
ing to be called Miss Mildred. It makes 
me feel — well, as if I would be a truly 
young lady before I knew it, and that is 
such a lovely, creepy feeling." 

"How^ever, as you are still a liitle 
girl," suggested the young teacher, "sup- 
pose we attack geography, oblivious to 
the fact there is such a thing outside 
schoolroom walls as a diverting house- 
party." 

But as the child's curly head bent low 
over her task, lane Tilton strai^htwav 



A LETTER TO SANTA CLAUS 



219 



fell into a reverie. Richard Savery, 
small wonder his face looked familiar; 
John's Dick Savery, in this house. No 
need to examine the guest book. Rich- 
ard Ormsby Savery — how many times 
had she not seen that name signed to 
notes and telegrams ! John's great 
friend at Harvard — Dick Savery! She 
yet vividly remembered his first visit to 
their home, when she was just such a 
slim exuberent little person as was Mil- 
dred now. He, a sophomore, had found 
his host's small sister an amusing compan- 
ion; had skated, coasted, and even visit- 
ed with her in kindly fashion, and she 
had admired him with all her loyal little 
heart. Was it six years ago that he had 
dined at John and Dorothy's, and she, 
just starting for a dinner, had met his 
friendly eyes in the hall, exchanged a 
few hurried words, and had reluctantly 
driven off, leaving her family to enter- 
tain him, this detached man, this desir- 
able guest? 

"Yes, dear," she heard herself say, 
"that is a tributary of the Mississippi." 
Dick Savery! What an irony of fate! 
Oh, those happy girls, those well-gowned 
guests of whom she caught occasional 
glimpses; they were not prisoned, con- 
fined, but free; free to enjoy the beauti- 
ful wintry country, free to laugh and talk 
with him. Why, it wasn't fair; she too, 
was young, she, too, could be decora- 
tive, given an opportunity. "That is very 
nice, Mildred, the best map so far; and 
now it's time for recess." " 

"If there isn't my Mr. Dick," cried the 
little girl, throwing down her paper, and 
hastily pushing open the nearest win- 
dow. "Oh, Mr. Dick, its my recess, 
please wait for me, I can be ready in a 
moment." 

"All right," responded that gentleman 
cordially, tossing away his cigar as he 
spoke, "hurry up, I promise to stand 
right here until you come, and I con- 
stitue myself, through the whole of re- 
cess, your humble knight." 

From her desk, the girl watched the 
merry pair disappear down the hill, and 



suddenly exercises and neatly drawn 
maps were utterly hateful, and lessons 
were a penance too bitter to be endured. 

It was two days before Christmas that 
Mildred appeared one afternoon bringing 
with her her younger sister Helena, aged 
five, a smiling little person who ever 
keenly enjoyed her rare visits to the 
schoolroom. 

"She wants to write a long letter to 
Santa Claus, Miss Tilton, and nurse is 
busy, so mother said you'd help her. 
It seems fimny now, that I used to do 
such things. Every year / wrote letters 
to him." 

"Of course I'll help you, darling," 
said the young governess gently, "but 
I have a notion that Santa Claus would 
like you to write a long letter, all your- 
self, and he can read it, no matter how 
funnily the words are spelled; that's one 
of the nice things about Santa Claus." 

"Oh, yes," sighed Helena ecstatically, 
"yes, I guess he likes me, Santa Claus 
does, for I've been awful good for 'most 
a week, and I do need so many things. 
Oh, and I'd like a pen, if you please." 

"This lovely sharp-pointed pencil is 
the very thing," broke in Miss Tilton en- 
thusiastically ; "see, it's so easy to write 
with." 

"All right," accepting the proffered 
pencil, "I'd better begin, it seems so hard 
for me to print. I guess I can't ever 
write." 

"Just for fun, even if we are big, 
dearest Miss Jane," suggested Mildred, 
"let us, you and me, write Santa Claus 
letters too, just for fun, of course. / 
want things, and can't you think up 
something you want !" 

"I might," she answered, trying to 
keep the bitterness out of her voice, and 
then she seized a pencil, laughing a little 
^ecklessl3^ "We will all write. Qnce 
Santa Claus liked me, too, Helena ; per- 
haps it's because I stopped writing let- 
ters to him that he has appeared to 
neglect me of late." 

"Keep on waiting," mumbled the 
smallest member of the party. A letter 



220 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



was a serious matter to her, her cheeks 
had grown very pink and she sighed 
audibly while the paper creaked under 
the pressure of the pencil, and thus en- 
couraged, Miss Jane, after many days, 
commenced her letter to Santa Claus. 

**Santa dear — " she began, 

"Please forgive me for forgetting 
to write to you, but I've been grown up 
quite some time, and I felt that your big 
loving heart had room for children only, 
but dear Santa Claus, I now ask you for 
a gift this Christmas, and but one. It 
isn't a doll, and it isn't a set of books, 
it isn't a sled, it isn't even a set of furs, 
it's just a man, a big splendid, kind man, 
and his name is Robert Ormsby Savery. 
I write it out in full, least there should 
be some mistake, for you might give me 
another man, and I do not want anybody 
else, not anybody. I knew him long 
ago, Santa Claus, perhaps I'd better tell 
you, before ever I was a sober governess, 
when my brother John and I were at 
home in dear old Northhampton. The 
aforesaid Richard is large and would 
take up entirely too much room in your 
sleigh, might even tax the reindeer, but 
as he's right here in this house, you see 
it would be no trouble at all to leave 
him by the schoolroom fireplace, where 
I could find him. I would be very good 
to him, Santa Claus. 

Thanking you in advance, 

Your affectionate little friend, 

Jane Beresford Tilton." 

'Tm all done," exclaimed Helena, hold- 
ing out one cramped little hand, in which 
was tightly clasped a rather creased sheet 
of paper; "it isn't very nice looking, but 
as you say, Santy can read 'most any- 
thing. Last Christmas I used to put 
just marks down, and he brought what 
I wanted Christmas morning, Santy did." 

**Yes," added Mildred, "and my letter 
IS finished, too. Do you know, Miss Til- 
ton, I felt almost awkward writing to 
him, I hadn't done it in so long, and," in 
a whisper, "almost as if he were a real 
person, as Helena thinks he is." 

"I also am through," said Mildred's 



governess. She looked half ashamed as 
she folded her neatly written communi- 
cation, but she was still smiling. 

"Miss Tilton, Miss Tilton," called 
Bridget, the nurse, excitedly at the door, 
"oh, Miss Tilton, 'tis Mrs. Worthington 
wants you in her sitting room, and she's 
in a hurry." 

"All right," was the answer, hastily 
dropping her letter, "I'll come this min- 
ute, Bridget," and she disappeared down 
the long hall, leaving the two little sis- 
ters alone in the schoolroom. 

"Hello, you two," said a big cheerful 
voice, and they turned to see Dick Sav- 
ery standing behind them. "May I come 
in, young ladies, may a mere man enter 
this abode of learning?" 

"It's just a schoolroom," replied Hele- 
na, "not a bode at all, — can he stay, Mil- 
dred?" 

"Of course, he may," graciously, "I'm 
afraid," with a very good copy of her 
mother's society manner, "you find us in 
disorder, for, you see. Air. Dick, we've 
all been writing to Santa Claus." 

"Well, if I haven't entirely forgotten 
mine," said the caller, "and now I'm 
quite out of the spirit of the thing." 

"I do wish," began Helena, slipping 
a soft little hand into his, "that you'd 
read my letter, and see if you think I've 
asked for too much. Bridget says that 
he doesn't like greedy children. There 
are the letters on the desk, and mine's 
the biggest one, I guess." 

"I don't know that I am a very good 
judge," said that gentleman, humbly 
opening a folded paper, and glancing 
through it hastily. "Why!" he ejaculated, 
w^histled softly, "what the — " looked 
down at the two unconscious children, 
and then shamelessly, read carefully and 
quite to the end, Jane's frank little letter 
to Santa Claus. His face changed, soft- 
ened, grew pitiful and then very tender. 
He quickly picked up the other letters, 
read them and casually remarked that 
he thought the old saint would look on 
all the petitions with favor, and that he 
considered the requests modest, felt sure 



THE CHRISTMAS CHARM 



221 



that any man would, especially such an 
understanding one as Santa Claus. Then 
he carefully laid the holiday mail upon 
the desk again, and was deep in a discus- 
sion with Mildred when a light step 
sounded in the hall. 

"It's just Mr. Dick, Miss Tilton; he 
came to call," explained Mildred. *'Mr. 
Dick, she's my darling governess, and her 
first name is Jane. I've told you lots 
about her." It was a very flushed gov- 
erness who crossed the room, and whose 
wide grey eyes met Dick Savery's. 

"We are very glad of visitors, some- 
times, Mr. Savery," she said nervously, 
and he saw her glance, with a look of re- 
lief, at the desk where lay the Christmas 
letters evidently V'-xlisturbed. 

"Surely, this is John Tilton's little sis- 
ter, Jane!" exclaimed Dick Savery, hold- 
ing out an eager hand. "You are very 



like him, and how glad I am to see you. 
Yes" — noting her black dress — "yes, I 
know, and, and I miss him yet — I always 
shall miss him, the best friend a man 
ever had. Oh, my little friend, now that 
we've met again, now that I've seen you, 
why — " impetuously, "you won't lose 
sight of me; I shall tell Mrs. Worthing- 
ton all about you," musingly, "about 
John Tilton's little sister. We must talk 
over the old days — and" — the warning 
note of a waiting automobile sounded — 
"the days yet to be." 

And, somewhere in his palace of ice, 
I wonder if a sympathetic Santa Claus 
didn't chuckle as he made out his lists 
and saw the extremely sizable Christmas 
gift that was surely destined for his 
affectionate little friend, Jane Beresford 
Tilton. 



Christmas Charm 

By Kate Gannett Wells 



THE material burden of Christ- 
mas, the giving and receiving;- of 
presents, has become so heavv, 
that it is well it occurs but once a year, 
for even now many families are perforce 
compelled by sanity or economy to scat- 
ter their Christmas gifts biennially. 

Yet to limit the Christmas charm to 
one day is denial of its significance of 
joy and gratitude. Of course, it is 
humiliating to find expectancy at such 
variance with satiety; our children are 
so good until the Christmas candles are 
extinguished or the Christmas stockings 
emptied. Then comes the reaction, the 
clearing up, the laying aside for next 
year and the uncanny sense of bargain- 
ing with one's self. 

Of course, again, we do not want to 
go to the opposite extreme, exchanging 
notes of sentiment, affection, praise for 
each other as our only Christmas gifts, 
for the annual repetition of such emotion 
would soon grow stale and perfunctory. 
Thus it happeneth. that just as many 



persons have plea for a sane and safe 
Fourth of July, until it is probable that 
it will soon become a day of decorative, 
civic beauty and patriotism, so do others 
now plead that the observance of Christ- 
iias may be restored to its spiritual im- 
pOit and democratic cordiality. Such is 
the true function of Christmas, which 
has made its delight and which still does 
and always will constitute its charm. 

This Christmas charm is inherent in 
each year and in each life. It is initia- 
tive, educative, imaginative. It is the 
secret of efficiency, the stimulus to 
aesthetic enjoyment. Started right, it 
grows along all right. Started wrongly, 
or never really started, but just let alone, 
it still by spasms, freaks, twists, works 
its way out into open expression of itself. 
The unit of the Christmas charm is 
numerical, only in so far as it is univer- 
sal, for its manifestations are as many 
and as various as the peoples of the 
world, since the expression of the charm 
is of our own making ; never allowing its 



222 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



first impulse to decline as we gain in 
mastery over its expression. 

In the cordiality and democracy of the 
Christmas charm, there is no vulgarity. 
We are not snobbish, eager to know only 
the right kind of people. We do not 
worry, lest we are not doing the right 
thing, whatever that might be, since we 
are unconscious of effort. We do not 
inflict self-discipline upon ourselves as 
there is no need of it. We are not 
merely "in love with love," but glori- 
ously, ineffably in love with some one 
man, and the radiance of that love is 
circumambient and translucent, as all 
are blessed in our being blessed. Or if 
there is no one man, there is always 
some one to love. Yet, if that somebody 
be another woman, may there not ensue 
such a close corporation kind of friend- 
ship as to distance other persons and 
interests, — which is too often the case in 
the narrow friendship of two women. 
We will not be prigs in thinking how 
much good our love does to the one be- 
loved, for we will just give ourselves 
utterly. That's all, but that all is every- 
thing. 

Still, asks the cynic, "Must there not 
be some physical basis for the charm?" 
And then thinking of some very plain 
looking person, we answer gladly, "No, 
not in the Christmas charm, for we 
make our facial expression by the means 
of the spirit. It is not in mere propin- 
quity, affinity or idealism, that is found 
the reality of. this charm.. It is in the 
character, which has added to or sub- 
tracted from its heredity, w'hatever 
would increase or injure the simplicity 
and integrity of cordiality and democ- 
racy : and all unconsciously character is 
transparent. 

Alas, that for so many of us this 
growth in being our best selves is hind- 
ered by the pressure of self-support, a 
necessity now, emphasized through voca- 
tional training and industrial schools. 
Let us in all this narrowing and harrow- 
ing need for physical subsistence, still 
keep alive our trying for culture, though 



it be like the poison flower in the story 
of "Picciola," which crept through the 
crannies of the brick yard and grew up 
into the sunlight, nourished by the pris- 
oner's love for its promise of fulfilment. 

The underlying theology of the Christ- 
mas charm is the same for conservative, 
radical or agnostic, as it portends recog- 
nition of a given life and gratitude for 
it, without which personal immortality 
itself might have seemed less sure. 
Each twelve months is there clearer 
ringing of the Christmas bells through 
the spirit of humanity which invests our 
lives. Never sound they more gladly, 
than to the brave and tired hearts of 
those who are Faithful Failures ; those 
who have tried their utmost, only to fail ; 
those who have been cordial and awk- 
ward, only to be snubbed ; those who are 
conscious that they are not wanted 
round and yet must go on living. To 
such as those, Christmas comes with its 
strain of triumphant democracy, good 
will to all, and if neither giving, nor 
given unto, they yet are penetrated with 
the sense of Christmas oneness. 

Last July when lawns were dry and 
b own, the four acres round the State 
Normal School, at Kearney, Nebraska, 
were vividly fresh and green, with nei- 
ther weed nor dandelion in them. For 
in one half day, teachers and pupils, 
six hundred in all, had uprooted forty 
thousand dandeHons. If dandelions can 
be so vanquished by united action, what 
may not Christian unity do ! All pulling 
together, until the needless hard places 
in life are conquered, leaving only that 
to be uprooted and banished, which each 
individual must do for himself, and 
which in thus being done, adds to the 
total of efforts for the making permanent 
the Christmas charm of cordiality and 
democracy. Since efficiency is the test 
of realization, and is what we all crave 
for ourselves and others, let us win it in 
the Christmas spirit, inventing new ways 
of doing the old odd jobs of kindness 
and of "Love for every unloved crea- 
ture." 



The Ubiquity of Common Sense 



By Frances Campbell Sparhawk 



THE medicial science of today 
felicitates itself upon having 
discovered the great and effectual 
means of prevention and in some cases 
of cure of tuberculosis. But the appeal 
to nature's remedies — best and most effi- 
cient of all appeals — is not, by any means, 
wholly a product of today's wit and wis- 
dom, although with the science of today 
rests the more marked and wide-spread 
application of these remedies. 

But before the middle of the last cen- 
tury a patient about thirty-five years old 
was sent to the famous physician, Dr. 
Jackson, then in charge of the Massa- 
chusetts General Hospital in Boston. He 
pronounced hers a case of tuberculosis, 
the trouble in the top of the lungs. He 
ordered cold bathing, daily exercise, and 
plenty of it, in the open air, and a strict 
regimen as to diet. 

The patient was one who could and 
would carry out with faithfulness any 
such regulations, ■ and the conditions of 
her life gave her all comforts and many 
luxuries. She never neglected herself 
or was careless as to proper protection 
against cold and dampness, while, at the 
same time, being a person of cheeful- 
ness of disposition, she was the farthest 
possible from boring others with self- 
solicitude. So she lived on and married 
and retained a fair degree of health. 
\\'hen over sixty years old she had 
pneumonia in both lungs and recovered, 
to live into her eighty-first year. Her 
treatment was the common sense of 
medicine. 

Several years later another sufferer 
from tuberculosis Avent by the advice of 
her physician to a town on the high 
Western plains where she lived in the 
open air riding on horseback sometimes 
forty miles a day, and returned to her 
home in Eastern Massachusetts in com- 



parative health. Here she kept up her 
out-of-door life to a great degree, until 
a change in her circumstances com- 
pelled her to indoor work. Then the dis- 
ease developed rapidly and she suc- 
cumbed to it. 

It is beyond all question that medical 
science has gained immensely during the 
last quarter of a century. But it is in- 
teresting to note that in all ages success 
in it has been founded upon that substra- 
tum of common sense, upon which alone 
all stable things are built and in which 
in all ages, making allowance for change 
in environment, there is a strong resem- 
blance. An incident which happened at 
the latter part of the eighteenth century, 
or early in the following, might today 
be classed among the triumphs of sug- 
gestion or the success of the New 
Thought applied to healing. But as no 
such explanations were then available, 
it appeared to the uneducated people in 
the neighborhood of its occurence a 
miracle, when in reality it was only that 
stiff backbone of common sense by 
which the whole body of practical life 
is sustained. 

In the land and in the days when the 
poor were brought to the doctors for 
help, a bedridden woman was brought 
in a cart to the door of a famous physi- 
cian. Her husband and two men who 
had helped him to put her into the cart 
bore her groaning with the pain of every 
motion into the physician's office. The 
doctor listened to the groans, to the story 
of the man telling how his wife had 
long been unable to help herself in any 
way and how for this time he had nur- 
sed and fed her and had also taken 
care of the children in addition to his 
daily work. The physician while he 
listened watched the patient and then 
he gave her a most careful and thorough 



223 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



examination. At the end of it he turned 
to the husband waiting spell-bound upon 
his verdict. Could anything be done 
for his poor wife? Or was her case 
hopeless? In a single sentence the phys- 
ician solved his doubts. With a drastic 
application of mental to physical con- 
ditions, he said to the man, ''Don't give 
your wife anything to eat unless she 
prepares it herself." 

At this hearing the man uttered a cry 
of amazement, and, we may suppose, 
of delight. The woman rose from the 
floor, upon which she had been stretched, 
hurled back at the speaker the taunt that 
she had always heard he was a skeely 
(skilful) doctor, but she should know 
better now, walked out of the house and 
got into the cart herself alone and un- 
aided. Whether she had been in any 
degree self-deceived or was wholly a 
fraud we shall never know. But the 
case remains an evidence of applied 
common sense in science. 

A physician who has now been dead 
for more than a generation, was during 
his extensive practice called in one day 
by her mother to see a young girl, pale, 
listless and evidently ailing. He exam- 
ined her and questioned as to her man- 
ner of living. She was devoted to nov- 
els and would sit day after day in her 
rocking chair reading these and enacting 
the lady that she believed such idleness 
represented, for to her it appeared an ele- 
gant leisure. Then she would come list- 
lessly and with little or no appetite to 
the meals which her anxious and hard- 
working mother had prepared for her 
with the greatest care. 

"Mrs. C , your daughter does not 

need medicine," said the physician. 
''Take away her novels, set her rocking 
chair against the wall, put the broom 
into her hands and let her help you 
about the house; she needs exercise and 
healthful occupation and to be of use. 
Do this and she will come all right. I 
shall give her no drugs." 

Mother and daughter were equally 
indignant with such a doctor. The 



physician departed and for a year his 
health prescription remained untaken, 
while the young girl grew more and 
more pale and listless. At last, Mrs. 
C , thoroughly alarmed and recog- 
nizing skill and reputation, appealed to 
him again. Again he came to her daugh- 
ter and gave the girl the previous pre- 
scription — healthful and useful exer- 
cise, and no drugs. This time the 
mother was ready and glad to enforce 
it — with excellent result. 

Another case gave evidence that this 
physician's prescription to the morbid 
girl was no fad to be applied to all with- 
out distinction, but was knowledge of 
the mental and physical necessities of 
health, and the common sense to take 
the conditions present to make these 
available. Among his patients was an- 
other young girl, active, restless, apt to 
over-rate and over-use her strength. 
More than once when called to her in 
illness, he would say to her, "You do not 
need medicine. Go to bed, take a novel 
and stay there a few days until you have 
thoroughly rested." He was certainly 
no wholesale condemner of novels ; he 
believed in them and enjoyed them per- 
sonally and in theory, but as a relaxa- 
tion, not as the occupation of life. 

This same physician use to say that 
when called to children who were ill 
he would diagnose the mother as well 
as the child. If he found the former 
full of practical common sense, likely 
to know what to do in an emergency 
when the doctor was far away, the 
child's chances for recovery were many 
times greater. For, in those days and in 
the country, nurses were not upon every 
corner. 

The famous remark of the celebrated 
and severe Dr. Abernethy held much 
New Thought and suggestion. "Doctor," 
said a complaining patient, my arm 
hurts me when I move it this way." 
"Then don't move it that way!" retor- 
ted Abernethy. 

It is a comfort to know that however 
much the future may gain in science 



CHRISTMAS AND ITS SIGNIFICANCE 



225 



and arts and in all devices of living, the 
methods of tomorrow putting those of 
today out of date, yet we ourselves pos- 
sess today certain things delivered to 



man from the beginning and indestruct- 
ible, and common sense is one of these 
and belongs among the most blessed eter- 
nities. 



Christmas and Its Significance 

Bv Edith C. Lane 



THERE are holidays and holidays, 
but few, if any, are so univer- 
sally observed as Christmas. Not 
alone in America, but throughout the 
entire world, this feast is considered the 
greatest of all. Some claim that it 
should not be tolerated, as it was orig- 
inally of pagan times, owing, no doubt, 
to its being so greatly observed by the 
Druids. These Druids held mistletoe in 
such reverence that no one was allowed 
to cut it from the trees without permis- 
sion, and then in small quantities, claim- 
ing that the Goddess of Plenty and of 
Love would be incensed and refuse her 
blessings, should the precious mistletoe 
be carelessly given. 

In Italy, Christmas is of the deepest 
religious significance, high mass being 
celebrated ; the famous Cathedral is fair- 
ly ablaze with hundreds of lights and the 
procession that is held yearly is one of 
the world's most superb sights. 

In Germany, feasting and merrymak- 
ing form a great part of the observance 
— not only the children, but the older 
folk, enter heart and soul into feasts 
and games, while even the poor manage 
to have some gay decoration and save 
for months to enjoy a tree, if but a tiny 
one, on this, the finest day of all the 
year. 

It is said, Henry the VIII introduced 
Christmas festivities into England, hav- 
ing brought to London all manner of 
jewels, fine furs and robes of priceless 
value, for royalty's favors, while the 
servants' hall was, also, most generously 
filled with countless gifts. Carols were 
sung Christmas Eve, feasting was con- 



tinued for two full weeks, and all man- 
ner of joyous entertainments were held, 
all as a holiday gift from his majesty to 
the people. 

Most foreigners place greater care in 
preparing for and enjoying the holiday 
season than do Americans, entering fully 
into the religious part, as well as the 
entertainment that is always given. 
Several families combine forces and 
purchase a great fir tree, which is 
gayly decorated with ropes of tinsel, 
bright colored paper, and candles in 
such profusion that one no longer 
doubts the existence of fairies. No 
doubt we would be happier, if we 
were more childlike in our enjoyment of 
holidays, thinking more of the pleasure 
of a beautiful tree alight with candles, 
the throng of joyful friends circling 
around it, singing sweet carols, all in 
their hearts wishing one another real 
joy, in place of continually racking ones 
brains for some way to outdo our neigh- 
bor's magnificence. Ten yards of ever- 
green rope will drape the average room 
charmingly, while holly and mistletoe 
are not so expensive but that most peo- 
ple can afford at least a small quantity 
of it. 

If one cannot decorate the entire 
house, deck one room to present its 
very gayest appearance, place all the 
gifts in this room, bring out the pret- 
tiest rugs and cushions, don your most 
becoming garments, and in the beauty 
of this one room, forget you have 
any rooms that are not in gala attire. 
The dining-room should show the best 
linen, china and glass, sprays of holly 



226 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



and mistletoe being strewn over the 
table, lest Sir Turkey be offended, while 
Princess Plum Pudding must never be 
served minus a sprig of holly with 
the brightest berries. 

So many say, ''Oh, if I could afford 
it, I should do so much at Christ- 
mas; but I really can't." Think of 
the heartfelt, not to say delirious, glee 
a few pennies may bring to a street 
urchin. Take one dollar, have it changed 
into pennies, then sally forth, and when 
you see a wistful little face pressed 
against a show window, gazing so long- 
ingly at the treasures, press a penny 
into the little hand, and give that hand 
the joy of holding its own money. Only 
one penny? Yes, one cent to do exactly 
as they please with is a greater treat 
to these small folks than much more 
money spent by elders. 

There is the sublime bliss of picking out 
and paying for themselves. Buy several 
pairs of really warm — not necessarily 



costly, mittens, and give a pair to the 
frozen-looking ones who are trying, oh, 
so hard, to make twenty-five cents do 
the work of dollars. There are countless 
so-called small things to be done during 
th Christmas time, which, if people only 
would do them, would lighten many a 
weary soul. A few dollars spent with 
one's heart and mind, often do more real 
good than much more used without a 
thought. One often neglects a hungry 
soul in his immediate neighborhood, 
while traveling the length of the town 
to attend to some one there. 

Christmas is so wonderful, so deeply 
solemn, and yet so brightly joyful that 
no one should fail to appreciate it as it 
deserves. It is not merely a feast day, 
but a combination of all that is best and 
most beautiful in the world ; the truth, 
the sweetness, the power and love of the 
universe all are embodied in this one 
magic word — Christmas, the most widely 
observed of holidays. 



The Christmas Fern 

By L. M. Thornton 



You have sung of the holly and mistletoe, 
Of the crimson and white of the months of 
snow, 
Of the green of the boughs and of berries 

red 
And the waxen clusters, that over her head 
Means ; well, what Laddie the pleasure would 

miss, 
On Christmas Eve, of a forfeited kiss. 
But another song I would have you learn, ' 
Of the graceful sprays of the Christmas 
Fern. 

And so in the midst of the Christmas green 
I give it place as the Winter's queen. 
With red of berries that gleam and glow 
And the waxen grace of the mistletoe. 
High in our hearts its charm shall reign. 
'Till the da}^ of the rose is come again. 
And even then, shall we fondly turn 
To a memory green of the Christmas Fern. 



The Kaiser's Kitchen 

By Helen Frost 



TOMORROW we go, no, to visit 
the Kaiser's Kitchen?" 
So said my sweet Fraulein 
Wertheim in her pretty, broken EngUsh. 
I love the brown-eyed Httle lady, whose 
girlhood had slipped away while she 
was saving and earning her two thousand 
dollar dowry. Her smart officer-lover, 
though his name possessed the "Von" of 
nobility, had not twenty thalers a month, 
outside his pay, — the sum demanded by 
a prudent government of the officer who 
would gain the royal permission to marry 
a penniless bride. Hence love's young 
dream waited until Fraulein Wertheim's 
slowly growing bank account should meet 
the required sum. Our lessons in the 
Garten Haus were a joy to me, and my 
teacher gave me freely of the otherwise 
inaccessible German life of Berlin. 

"The Kaiser's Kitchen, by all means," 
I answered ; a vision of chefs and royal 
saucepans before my eyes. 

"In zis place of which I tell you," went 
on my instructor, ''become the German 
maidens such Haus Fraus as the Kaiser 
approves for the Fatherland." 

I invited her to share my breakfast, 
the next morning; rolls, coffee, and pre- 
served barberries, and I joyfully fled 
the Pension, which was in the throes of 
Christmas house-cleaning, a sacred rite, 
and walked half a mile to the Victoria 
Luisen Platz where stands the large 
stone building known as the Lette Ver- 
ein, and under the patronage of the Kai- 
ser and Kaiserin. 

Ten visitors of us were ushered into 
the reception room where the Kaiser's 
portrait, showing him georgeous in a red 
uniform, looked down upon us. A lady 
patroness in a dark gown, and- plain little 
bonnet, came in to meet us — glanced over 
the register where we had been requested 
to write our names and addresses, then 



asked us in very good German, which 
of us was the lady from New York. 
When I acknowledged my home city she 
told me she had frequently heard of New 
York, and that the institution was hon- 
ored that a New York lady should visit 
it. She was so "nett" to me that my 
Fraulein was much gratified by her at- 
tentions, and said that they were unusual. 

We were taken first to the kitchens 
where cooking of many kinds was in pro- 
gress, and with no modern kitchen appli- 
ances. A huge brass kettle of boiling 
stew was taken from the stove, as we en- 
tered, and was put into a very simple 
fireless cooker where seven hours of heat 
were to make it ready for the girls' six 
o'clock dinner. The cooker was an old 
chest, lined with blankets, and when the 
covered kettle had been put in, the whole 
was surmounted and enclosed by the in- 
variable feather bed of Germany. 

We saw dark-looking sausages being 
made, mixed with grated potatoes, 
stuffed into bags, and hung upon the 
walls. 

In another room very elaborate cake 
was compounded, largely of the almond 
meal, known as Marzipan, and orna- 
mented with many devices of sugar fruits 
and flowers. A very inviting looking 
tart, which seemed to whisper of indi- 
gestion to follow, had a crust made of 
almond flour and a filling of preserved 
gooseberries. An elderly German, Herr 
Councilor Somebody, was one of our 
party, and his serene countenance bright- 
ened into absolute geniality as he sur- 
veyed these sweets. 

In the vegetable room a brown-eyed 
girl was passing boiled black beans 
through a sieve. 

"Ach !" exclaimed my Fraulein, "it is 
thus that my Fritz ever chooses to eat 
the beans." 



227 



228 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



It seemed to me that few directions 
were given to the busy girls, but they 
occasionally asked questions of an older 
woman, herself hard at work, who ap- 
parently was in charge. 

Outside the kitchen doors hung sam- 
ples of every kind of seed or grain used 
in the making of the foods here prepared. 
Large charts named and illustrated the 
various parts of flesh and fowl, and 
located for the prospective Haus Frau 
the familiar cuts of meat. 

The laundry had no wash boards ; pad- 
dles and hand rubbing alone were used. 
No starch was allowed in the embroidery 
and knitted lace; the tucked shirt, which 
a giggling prospective Frau was ironing, 
drooped dispiritedly, and I pitied the 
man whose linen should be thus set in 
order. The irons were tremendous, like 
a tailor's goose, and were kept hot by 
the insertion of bits of glowing charcoal, 
supplied from a little stove in a corner 
of the room. 

Upstairs we visited the sewing rooms 
where I saw one Singer machine among 
its German counterparts. Some very 
terrible gowns were in process of con- 
struction, but made with a neatness that 
almost compensated for their designs. 
Seated near the window was a rosy, 
blonde girl, whose yellow braids were 
wound round her head, and whose 
strong little red hands were knitting 
with incredible swiftness on a gray 
stocking. A glance out of the window, 
her honest face was illumined, and a 
species of telegraphy drew four workers, 
my idle self, and even my Fraulein, to 
the window. Heedless of the light rain 
which had begun to fall, there stood on 
the sidewalk below us, four young offi- 
cers, gorgeous in Alice blue uniforms, 
gilt braid, and swords. 

Fraulein Wertheim was at my elbow : 
"Why?" I asked her, ''does so much ele- 
gance allow itself to get wet? Have 
these officers no umbrellas?" 

"An umbrella for an officer !" ex- 
claimed Fraulein. 'Tt is not permitted. 
He must walk in the rain ever, as last 



week, perhaps two miles to a military 
funeral — and the new buttons, mein 
Gott!" 

German thrift was evident in sample 
cards on the wall where silk or wool had 
been so cleverly patched that I actually 
had to turn the sample over to locate the 
mended part. Household linen had been 
invisibly mended with linen ravelings, 
and a stout gray stocking had been fairly 
decorated by the basket-like darn in the 
toe. 

For this work, — for the best knitting, 
indeed, for excellence in any one of the 
three branches of feminine industry, 
prizes are annually given by the Kaiser, 
and other exalted patrons. 

We passed the Nurses' Training de- 
partment, the Bookbinding, the Studio, 
the Music Rooms — everywhere were full 
classes and the buzz of industry. 

The Kindergarten seemed simple, al- 
most poorly equipped, compared with the 
American idea evolved from the German 
original, but rosy little children, from 
three to five years old, sat round a table 
working happily. They were given few 
suggestions, but with small odds and 
ends of material were working out the 
expression of their individual ideas of 
Christmas gifts and Christmas tree dec- 
orations. 

Some two hundred girls from various 
parts of Germany live in the dormitory 
rooms, on the top floor, twenty beds to a 
room, and pay a few marks a month for 
the privilege. 

The whole busy Lette Verein seemed 
not so much a place to train teachers, as 
to prepare girls for home life. There 
was small look of theory, but much evi- 
dent practice. Germany's War Lord has 
strongly in mind the strengthening of 
domestic bulwarks as well as of his mili- 
tary fortresses, and here, inspired by his 
vigorous planning, and often by his ac- 
tual presence, the Haus Frau, upon 
whom home depends, is in the process 
of evolution. A little army of German 
maidens is being carefully prepared to 
meet their Kaiser's ideas of woman's 



HAPPINESS 



229 



iegitimate interests in life :— 
''Kinder, Kuche, und Kirche,' 



or, in 



our more prosaic English — Children, 
Kitchen, and Church. 



Modern versus Ancient Tables 

By Julia Davis Chandler 



SOMEHOW our modern tables are 
more luxurious than comfortable. 
Who will be courageous enough 
to have a long narrow table — hence the 
old name ''board" — and have the attend- 
ants come before it to serve food as in 
medieval times ? One may see numerous 
examples of this in illustrated books, 
dealing with the middle ages ;. while the 
luxury of the renaissance period fills us 
with envy, when we look at some of the 
paintings of the Italian masters. 

In the feudal ages there was one rea- 
son for thus facing the great dining hall, 
for then men were ever alert for danger, 
and must be ready to defend their castles, 
and themselves. Hence they had their 
backs to the walls, with guests and re- 
tainers all before them. 

Observe, in studying the history of the 
table and the art of dining, not only old 
illuminations, carvings, and oil paintings, 
but also see Abbey's conception of 
Arthur's Round Table. 



The heavenly host are descending in 
a circle about the knights who surround 
the circular table. The attendants are in 
the central space bearing bread and fla- 
gons. How can we of to-day think of 
aught before, — much less above us, — 
because we must ever and always be 
looking back over our shoulders, with 
great difficulty, to be ready for the maid 
or butler at our left elbow, checking the 
relation of our most fetching story ! 

It is worse still, when one's soup plate 
is taken from the right as the next 
course is inserted in place from the left 
by a dexterous waiter. In looking either 
side it gives one the feeling of being in 
the way of a flail or a windmill. 

To be sure, with short sleeves or lace 
ones, we do not have the difficulty in 
safely landing our supplies that was ex- 
perienced when coat sleeves of silk were 
fitted skin-tight, making the arms almost 
paralyzed, and preventing piano playing 
after luncheon. 



Happiness 

By Stokely S. Fisher 

With nothing but love, dear, life is complete — 
Oh what should we want beside? 

Let who will strive for the highest seat. 
We pine for no honor denied ; 

And let the proud with the proud compete, 
We are ruled by a nobler pride ! 

With nothing but love, dear, life is complete — 
Oh what should we want beside ? 

The world may the hope of the worldling 
cheat— 

We never upon it relied ; 
The tickle delights of the rich are fleet, 

Our homely joys abide: 
With nothing but love, dear, life is complete — 

Oh what should we want beside? 



230 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street Boston, Mass. 

Subscription ^1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 

Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 

To other Foreign Countries 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the 7iew. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post--«fFi-e as second-class matter 



Face The Sun 

"Don't hunt after trouble, but look for success, 
You'll find what you look for ; don't look for 

distress. 
If you see but your shadow, remember, I 

pray, . 

That the sun is still shining, but you re in 

the way. 
Don't grumble, don't bluster, don't dream 

and don't shirk, 
Don't think of your worries, but think of 

your work. 
The worries will vanish, the work will be 

done ; 
No man sees his shadow who faces the 

sun." — To Day's. 



Every pair of idle hands is a tax 
against every pair of employed hands. 

Don't waste life in doubts and fears ; 
spend yourself on the work before you, 
well assured that the right performance 
of this hour's duties will be the best prep- 
aration for the hours or ages that follow 
it. — Emerson. 



NEATNESS 

NEATNESS is a virtue. The dif- 
ference between man and animal, 
the savage and civilized races, is indi- 
cated by the possession or lack of this 
trait. Cleanliness or sanitation has come 
to be the distinguishing mark of the de- 
gree of civilization to which a race has 
attained. What else than cleanliness does 
sanitation and pure food mean? The 
significance of these things has come to 
be tremendous in their bearing on human 
weal. Habits, good or ill, are easily 
formed and hard to break. From child- 
hood neatness should be inculcated in 
school and out ; for it means health, hap- 
piness and long life. 

Our appetites are instinctive. The 
sight of food is an incentive to eat. It 
may likewise cause a sudden revulsion of 
the desire. To say nothing of poor cook- 
ing, how many a meal has been lost or 
spoiled by the unsightly, untidy appear- 
ance of the dishes presented. The very 
semblance of dirt is repellent and de- 
structive to appetite and good feeding. 
In matters of neatness, the good house- 
keeper must be beyond even the pale of 
suspicion. One of the ten command- 
ments might have been : Thou shalt not 
eat any unclean food or drink any un- 
clean drink. This is the law of nature, 
anyhow. With the rat, the fly and the 
deadly germ that unsanitary conditions 
and uncleanliness breed and foster, war 
has been declared. The pests must be 
exterminated. To attain this end. so de- 
sirable, the most scrupulous neatness 
must be made the rule of practice in 
every home and community in the land. 
The way to reform is to begin at h'ome. 

QUALITY VERSUS QUANTITY 

AWELL-KNOW^N advertising agent 
said recently that experience had 
taught him that, in order to attract the 
general advertiser, a periodical must have 
a circulation of about 300,000, at least. 
He also remarked that he knew of pub- 
lications with a circulation of 50.000 



EDITORIALS 



231 



which proved to be far better advertising 
mediums than others whose circulation 
was in the hundreds of thousands. The 
inference from this and other similar 
statements is that advertisers are begin- 
ning to learn that the value to be derived 
from advertising depends rather upon 
quality than upon quantity in circulation. 
With no excuse or apology, the sub- 
ject is of special interest and concern to 
us. This publication certainly does not 
have a circulation of 300,000, would that 
it had, and thus it cannot appeal to the 
general advertiser. But, at the same 
time, it is not a department, a supple- 
ment or a catch-all of the surplus of 
some larger publication. It is a unit, a 
whole thing, original and distinct, in it- 
self. It caters to one class only, and that 
class includes not only teachers and 
pupils of domestic science, but also pre- 
eminently the most intelligent and pro- 
gressive housekeepers and home-makers 
in the land. Our readers are interested 
in domestic science and the magazine is 
adapted to their special daily needs. In 
our make-up we regard quality as para- 
mount to all else. For many reasons we 
wish to enlarge our subscription list, and 
not the least of these is that we may be 
able to produce a periodical of still 
greater excellence and worth. Our ap- 
peal always is to the enthusiastic, cheer- 
ful, and progressive home-maker. 

WINTER HOSPITALITY 

AS soon as the keen air of autumn 
begins to sharpen our appetites our 
thoughts turn to the social pleasures of 
winter and the exchange of hospitality. 
The winter is naturally the season of 
indoor entertainment. We need some 
gayeties interspersed with the more seri- 
ous duties of the working months. 
Feasting has come to be associated in 
our minds with cold weather. It makes 
for good cheer and compensates for the 
rigors of nature. Whether entertaining 
ourselves or accepting the bounty of 
others, the good things of the table ex- 
press mutual good will. Hospitality 



may range from the most elaborate dis- 
play to the simplest fare, but depends 
chiefly upon the good judgment of the 
hostess. Lavish entertainment is by no 
means necessary. Well cooked food, 
daintily served, is within the means of 
all who will exert themselves to plan 
wisely their expenditures. The woman 
who can concoct her own delicacies has 
the advantage over those who order from 
fashionable caterers. There is indeed no 
excuse for the housekeeper who can not 
turn her hand to some of the superior 
niceties of cooking. But if she has no 
aptitude for so-called fancy dishes, to 
prepare simple things in a perfect way 
is one of the best modes of hospitahty. 
In winter entertainment we want above 
all things else a hot dish that is hot. 
Even a cup of cocoa, or a bowl of broth 
on a bitter day, if it be really hot, gives 
a visitor a grateful sense of comfort. 

Winter hospitality is no longer limited 
in variety of food product. We can have 
almost anything we want in any month 
of the year, if we have the means to 
command it. Yet even so there is an 
old-fashioned charm in keeping more or 
less closely to the dear familiar dishes 
which our forefathers regarded as win- 
ter specialties : mince pie and pumpkin 
pie, Indian pudding, apples and cran- 
berries and all the rest. Though we may 
keep our houses at summer heat all win- 
ter, and dress indoors in silk and muslin, 
we do well to draw a distinction between 
the summer and winter dietary. Let us 
preserve the old customs of genuine win- 
ter hospitality. e. m. h. 

UNGASTRONOMIC AMERICA 

I N a readable article on "Ungastro- 
^ nomic America," in the Century 
Magazine for November, Benj. T. Fink 
says to the American public : "It is not 
only your privilege but your duty to get 
as much pleasure out of your meals as 
possible. How is this to be done ? First : 
by refusing to buy denatured, flavorless 
foods. Secondly, by paying more atten- 
tion to the preparation of viands, bearing 



22>Z 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



in mind that the main object of cookery 
is to develop the countless delicious 
savors latent in good raw material, or to 
add others where the food is deficient 
in natural flavor., Thirdly, by learning 
how to eat. Epicures alone realize that 
eating is a fine art, and even they do 
not know just what it is that makes them 
enjoy a meal so much more than ordin- 
ary mortals do." Then he goes on to 
assert what few may have suspected, that 
"with the exception of sweet, sour and 
bitter, all our countless gastronomic de- 
lights come to us through the sense of 
smell." Hence it follows "that what is 
often eliminated from food is its very 
soul, its precious flavor, that which 
makes it appetizing and enjoyable and, 
therefore, digestible. We allow covetous 
or ignorant manufacturers, and incom- 
petent or indolent cooks, to spoil our 
naturally good food, because we do not, 
as a nation, realize that on its pleasure- 
ableness depend our health and comfort, 
our happiness and capacity for hard 
work, more than perhaps on anything 
else." 

The circulation of culinary publica- 
tions is comparatively small in large 
cities. Here the preparation and serving 
of food is done on a large scale and is 
strictly a business proposition. For ca- 
tering in cities stewards, chefs and cooks, 
with training and experience, are in de- 
mand. The formulas and methods they 
use are somewhat exclusive and tradi- 
tional. Chefs are professional cooks and 
for the most part foreigners. France is 
the home of the cuHnary art and French 
is the language of the menu. This is 
why so many culinary terms are ex- 
pressed in French. Still it is doubtful 
to-day that American cookery is second 
to that of any other nationality. 

But the cuisine of the large restaurant 
or cafe is not well suited to the require- 
ments of the average family. In the 
genuine American home, as it is found 
in suburban districts and in numerous 
smaller cities and towns throughout the 



land, a journal like the Cooking-School 
Magazine aspires to a place. Here it 
is especially adapted to supply a requisite 
need in perfecting home life. 

At a gathering of ministers at Man- 
chester it was agreed that each person 
present should tell a short story. Dr. 
Watson's assistant minister refused to 
contribute his quota, because the story 
personally concerned the doctor. But 
Dr. Watson insisted, and at length the 
story was told thus : "I had a dream, 
and was told that, to go to heaven, I 
must go up a certain flight of stairs, and 
chalk my sins on each step as I went up. 
I was doing so, when I saw the doctor 
coming down. I said, 'Doctor, man, you 
are going the wrong way. For what are 
you going down?' And the doctor 
answered lugubriously, 'More chalk !' " 

Said a physcian to an anxious mother, 
"Do you realize how much a, growing 
boy can eat?" "I should think I ought 
to, if anybody does," returned she. 
"When we were up in the mountains 
this summer, the waitress would come 
in and say to my boy, 'We have fried 
fish, steak, liver and bacon, baked and 
fried potatoes, rye biscuit, muf^ns, and 
dry toast.' And that boy Ned would say. 
Til take it all please — and some eggs." 

Most is accomplished in anything, by 
working along the lines of least resist- 
ance. It pays to study human types — it 
obviates the offering of things to folks 
w^ho have no need of them. The good 
salesman offers to a type what that type 
can appreciate. — Tlic Caxton. 

"What has your boy learned at school 
this season?" "He has learned that he'll 
have to be vaccinated, that his eyes aren't 
really mates, and that his method of 
breathing is entirely obsolete." — Selected. 

The only customers who last are those 
secured on a basis of "Quality," "Ser- 
vice" and ''Fair Dealing." 



i 




LETTUCE-AND-ROQUEFORT SALAD DRESSING 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful. 



Fillet of Beef, Bouquet Fashion 

REMOVE all unedible portions 
from a fillet of beef and draw 
into the best surface three rows 
of salt-pork lardoons ; cut the lardoons 
of good length that they may be tied 
in a single knot. Roast or poele the fillet 
as desired. If poeling be selected as the 
method of cooking, baste with melted 
glaze several times, at the last cooking, 
to secure a surface of high gloss. Have 
ready, cooked and hot, some flowerets 
of cauliflower, balls of carrot and of 
potatoes, and about a cup of Bernaise 
sauce. Dispose the hot vegetables around 
the meat on a serving dish. Serve the 
sauce in a bowl. After the potato 
balls have been blanched and dried on 
a cloth, let them cook in the oven, in a 
little melted butter, to a golden brown, 
shaking the pan occasionally to avoid 
burning. 

Tapioca Soup 

Heat two quarts and a half of con- 
somme to the boiling point; gradually 



sprinkle in a cup of any quick-cooking 
tapioca, stirring constantly meanwhile, 
and continue to stir until boiling 
vigorously throughout, then let cook 
over boiling water half an hour, stirring 
occasionally. When the soup is done, 
the tapioca is not visible in the soup, 
which it has slightly thickened. 

Celery Soup 

Cook one pint of tomatoes, one cup 
and a half of celery leaves and coarse 
stalks, a large onion, cut in slices, and 
part of a spice bag, or three or four 
cloves, bit of bay leaf or blade of mace 
tied in two parsley branches, half an 
hour. Press the vegetables through a 
sieve, add two quarts of broth and let 
stand until boiling, then stir in two 
level teaspoonfuls of potato flour, stirred 
to a smooth consistency with half a cup 
of broth or water. Let simmer fifteen 
minutes. Broth made of fresh meat is 
the best, but that made from the frame- 
work and remnants of roast poultry, with 
a little fresh meat, makes a most palat- 
able soup. 



233 



234 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Bernaise Sauce 

Put three tablespoonfuls of fine- 
chopped shallot (very small, mild on- 
ions), half a dozen pepper-corns, and 
one-fourth a cup of vinegar to simmer on 
the back of the range. When the mois- 
ture has nearly evaporated, add two 
tablespoonfuls of butter and the beaten 
yolks of three eggs. Set the saucepan 
into a dish of boiling water, then stir 
and let cook, adding twice, meanwhile, 
two more tablespoonfuls of butter (three 
ounces of butter in all). When the 
sauce thickens, season with salt and a 
little paprika, strain and finish with a 
teaspoonful, each, of fine-chopped tarra- 
gon and chervil. Tarragon vinegar may 



chili pepper pulp (scraped from the 
skin), or half a teaspoonful of paprika, 
four tablespoonfuls of cream and a tea- 
spoonful of sweet herbs or poultry sea- 
soning, if desired. For a drier dressing 
add the beaten yolks of two eggs. One 
cup of bread crumbs mixed with one- 
third a cup of butter may be substituted 
for the nut meats. 

Mashed Potato, Marquise Style 

Reduce some red tomato puree by 
cooking until quite consistent. Have the 
potatoes mashed, seasoned with salt, 
pepper and butter as usual, then beat 
in tomato puree to make of a consistency 
to use wnth pastry bag and tube. 
Shape on a buttered baking sheet, brush 







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^ 



FILLET UF BEEF, BOUQUET FASHION 



be used with the shallot, when fresh 
tarragon leaves are not obtainable. 
Green pepper pod, chopped fine, is bet- 
ter than pepper-corns. For a change 
meat glaze may be added to the sauce, 
to give it a brown color, and it then be- 
comes Bernaise Brune. The addition of 
tomato puree gives a very good Bernaise 
Tomate. Two tablespoonfuls of puree 
are sufficient. 

Potato Stuffing for Roast Goose 

Mix together two cups of hot mashed 
potato, half a cup of sliced pecan-nut 
meats, one teaspoonful of grated onion, 
one teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of 



over with beaten tgg diluted with milk 
and set them in an oven to become hot 
and browned slightly. Serve as a garnish 
around a dish of meat or fish. This 
potato may also be served without 
browning it, when the Christmas color 
is more in evidence. 

Venison Timbales 

If the venison be young, cutlets from 
the leg may be used; if the flesh be 
from an older creature, a piece of the 
fillet from under the rump should be 
selected. Scrape the pulp from the 
fibres; there should be a generous half 
pound of pulp (about one cup and a 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



235 



fourth) ; add half a cup of bread panada 
(bread cooked in milk or broth to a 
smooth paste) and two tablespoonfuls of 



of carrot, a bit of bay leaf and two 
sprigs of parsley, stir and cook until 
brown, then add one-third a cup of 




STEAME,D CARROT PUDDING (CHRISTMAS PLUM) 



cold brown sauce and pound in a chop- 
ping bowl with a wooden pestle to a 
smooth paste; add two tablespoonfuls 
of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, a 
dash of pepper and again pound until 
smooth ; then add three eggs, one after 
another, pounding smooth after the 
addition of each egg. Press through 
a sieve, then use in filling timbale molds, 
thoroughly buttered. Let cook on many 
folds of paper and surrounded with hot 
water. Unmold and surround with 
Brown Currant Jelly Sauce. 

Brown Currant Jelly Sauce 

Put over the fire four tablespoonfuls 
of butter, two slices of onion, four slices 



flour, half a teaspoonful of salt and a 
dash of paprika and stir and cook until 
the flour is browned; add two cups of 
rich, brown stock and stir until boiling, 
then strain over one-fourth a cup of 
currant jelly and two tablespoonfuls of 
Madeira. 

Steamed Carrot Pudding 

(Christmas Plum) 

Wash and scrape three or four carrots, 
then grate enough pulp to weigh one 
pound. Chop one pound of suet; mix 
through it half a pound, each, of raisins 
and currants and one cup of sugar, then 
mix the whole with the grated carrot. 
Sift together one cup and a half of pas- 





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STUFFED APPLES IN JELLY 



'236 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



try flour, one teaspoonful of salt, two 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one tea- 
spoonful, each, of ground cinnamon and 
nutmeg and half a teaspoonful of ground 
cloves, then mix into the suet and fruit 
mixture and press into a buttered mold. 
Do not add any liquid. Steam in a mold 
three hours and a half. Serve with wine 
or hard sauce. The hard sauce may be 
piped on slices of lemon, set around the 
pudding, on a hot dish. In the illustra- 
tion the mold was decorated by pressing 
halves of peacan-nut meats into the 
butter with which the inside of the mold 
was liberally spread. 

Caramel Bavarian Cream 

Stir two-thirds a cup of sugar over the 
fire until it melts and becomes caramel ; 
add half a cup of water and let boil 
until the caramel is melted. Soften one- 
fourth a box of gelatine in one-fourth 
a cup of cold water and dissolve in the 
hot syrup; strain into a dish set in ice 
and water and stir occasionally until the 
mixture begins to thicken, then stir con- 
stantly and fold in one cup and a half 
of cream beaten until nearly firm 
throughout. 

Mocha Frosting 

Beat one cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in two ounces of softened 



Stuffed Apples in Jelly 

Boil one cup of sugar and a cup of 
water five minutes ; put in four apples, 
pared and cored, and let cook until 
tender throughout, turning often to keep 
the shape. Chop one-fourth a cup of 
seeded raisins, three or four cherries and 
a few bits of other fruit, as pineapple, if 
available ; let cook in a little sugar and 
water, then use to fill the opening in the 
apples. Soften one-third a package of 
gelatine in one-third a cup of cold water. 
To the syrup in which the apples were 
cooked add the juice of a lemon, one cup 
of other fruit juice (as pineapple, peach, 
etc.), one-third a cup of sugar, the soft- 
ened gelatine and enough hot water to 
make three cups in all. If the fruit juice 
does not color the juice sufficiently, add 
a little vegetable color. Strain the liquid 
into a rectangular pan to make jelly half 
an inch thick ; on this set the prepared 
apples, (these should be nicely chilled 
beforehand), pour jelly around them and 
then over them until all is used. To 
serve set the dish in lukewarm water, 
an instant only, then unmold on a paper 
laid over a meat board. With a round 
cutter dipped in hot water, cut out the 
apples with jelly attached to them and 
with a broad spatula lift them to serving 
dishes. Or, with a knife, wet in hot 




FIGS, WITH CREAM CHEESE GLACE 



chocolate and two cups and a half of 
sifted powdered sugar, then, very grad- 
ually, about one-fourth a cup of very- 
strong coffee. The coffee should be as 
strong as coffee extract; not all the 
quantity given may be needed. 



water, cut out squares with an apple 
in the center of each. Serve with or 
without cream. If the jelly is not firm 
enough to remain in place around the 
apples while moving them, cut it in 
cubes or break it with a fork and pile 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



237 



around the apples, 
too firm. 



Jelly is best when not 



Lettuce-and-Roquefort Salad 
Dressing 







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MINCE PIE, WITH APPLE MERINGUE 



Figs, with Cream Cheese Glace 

Beat one-third a cup of cream until 
firm, then gradually fold it into two- 
thirds a cup of cream cheese that has 
been broken up and beaten slightly with 
a silver fork. Run a narrow (half inch) 
strip of waxed paper over the bottom 
and up the sides of paper cases or tin 
timbale molds and into each press 
enough of the cheese for one serving; 
spread paper over the cheese and set the 
molds one above another in an ice-cream 
mold. Pack the mold in equal measures 
of ice and salt. Let stand an hour and 
unmold on serving plates. Set a cooked 
fig, sweetened (flavored with sherry if 
desired) and thoroughly chilled, above 
each service of cheese. Pour over a 
little syrup and serve at once. The 
cheese should not be frozen too hard. 



Have a head of lettuce carefully 
washed and dried in a bowl. Put about 
two ounces (quarter of a cup) of 
Roquefort cheese in a bowl and with a 
new wooden spoon (an apple-tree or 
olive-wood spoon is nice for dining room 
use), work the cheese to a cream, then 
gradually beat in from four to six 
tablespoonfuls of olive oil, two to three 
tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a scant 
half teaspoonful, each, of salt and pap- 
rika. The uncooked yolk of an tgg 
is sometimes beaten into the cheese and 
thick cream may replace part of the oil. 
Pour the dressing over the lettuce, lift 
the leaves carefully and, when well 
mixed, serve at once. Or, preferably, 
dispose the dressing on the lettuce after 
it has been set on the plates. This dres- 
sing is particularly good for lettuce and 
endive, sliced tomatoes and cold boiled 









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CHRISTMAS SALAD 



238 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



cauliflower. 

Christmas Salad 

Use white grapes, sliced peaches 
(canned) and pineapples, pulled from 
the core with a fork, or if canned pine- 
apple be used, cut in small bits. The 
grapes should be skinned, cut in halves 
and seeded. Dispose these in separate 
mounds on heart leaves of lettuce. Serve 
Golden Dressing in a bowl. 

Golden Dressing 

Heat one-fourth a cup of lemon juice 
and one-fourth a cup of other fruit 
juice, as pineapple, orange and the like, 
in a double-boiler. Beat two eggs ; 
beat in from one-fourth to one-half a cup 
of sugar and cook in the hot liquid un- 
til the spoon is well coated. Remove 
from the fire to a dish of cold water, 
beat a few moments and, when cold and 
ready to use, fold in from one-third to 
one-half a cup of cream, beaten firm. 

Cocoanut Butter 

Grate the meat of a cocoanut and over 
it pour one cup of boiling water ; cover 
and let stand half an hour ; strain 



spread over the pie an apple meringue 
and set the pie into a very moderate 
oven to cook the meringue. After ten 
or twelve minutes, increase the heat to 
color the meringue delicately. Serve the 
pie soon after removal from the oven. 

Apple Meringue 

Peel and grate one large tart apple, 
adding to the pulp, meanwhile, a table- 
spoonful of lemon juice and a cup of 
sugar. Beat the whites of two eggs dry, 
then gradually beat in the sugar and 
apple and use as indicated above. The 
meringue may, also, be cooked in a small 
buttered mold, set in a dish of hot water, 
and served hot, with cream and sugar 
or a cold boiled custard. 

Gateau St. Emilion 

Bake a loaf of sponge cake — that made 
of potato flour is particularly good for 
this purpose — in a round pan without a 
tube. When cold, score the top, all 
around, three-fourths an inch from the 
center, and carefully remove a thin 
round of cake that may be returned to 
place later on. Remove more of the 
cake to leave a case with walls nearly 






APPLE PIE, WITH MERINGUE 



through a piece of cheese-cloth, pressing 
out all the liquid possible. Add sugar to 
equal the quantity of the liquid and let 
cook until thick as honey. Use with 
bread, in the same manner as honey. 

Mince Pie, with Apple Meringue 

Bake a mince pipe, prepared in the 
usual manner, having the upper crust 
of puff or flaky pastry and rolled out 
rather thin. Shortly before serving, 



an inch thick; fill the case with caramel 
Bavarian cream, and set the round of 
cake back in place to give the original 
shape of the loaf. Spread the whole 
outside of the cake with a thin layer 
of Mocha frosting and ornament with 
more of the same frosting, put on with 
bag and star tube. Sprinkle with fine- 
chopped pistachio nuts. Set in a cool 
place until ready to serve. For a more 
holiday effect, stir chopped pistachio 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



239 



nuts and candied cherries through the 
Bavarian cream when it is just on the 
point of setting. 



in that used on top. 

Decorative Icing 




GATEAU ST. EMILION 



Poinsettia Cake 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream ; 
gradually beat in one cup of granulated 
sugar, then the beaten yolks of three 
eggs, one-fourth a cup of sweet cream, 
two cups of sifted flour, sifted again 
with a slightly rounding teaspoonful of 
baking powder, and, lastly, the whites of 
three eggs, beaten dry, and half a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla extract. Bake in a 
tube pan about fifty minutes. Boil one- 
fourth a cup, each, of sugar and water 
to a syrup, or, about four minutes ; re- 
move from the fire and stir in sifted 
confectioners' sugar to make a frosting 
that will not run from the cake. Ice 
the cake when cold. More sugar will 
be needed in the icing on the sides than 



Dissolve a cup of granulated sugar in 
one-fourth a cup of hot water. Wash 
down the sugar from the sides of the 
pan, cover and let boil three or four 
minutes ; uncover and let boil to 240° F. 
on a sugar thermometer, or to a rather 
firm "soft ball." Pour in a fine stream 
on the whites of two eggs, beaten dry, 
beating constantly meanwhile. Return 
the icing to the saucepan and let cook 
on an asbestos mat or over boiling water, 
beating constantly, until the icing will 
hold the shape given it. For poinsettias 
use a leaf tube. For the centers use 
tiny yellow candies. The icing may be 
left white or tinted with color paste. 

Spanish Cake 

Beat one cup of butter to a cream ; 




POINSETTIA CAKE 



240 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



gradually beat in two cups of sugar, 
then the beaten yolks of four eggs, and, 
alternately, one cup of milk and three 
cups and one-half of sifted flour, 
through which five level teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder, two teaspoonfuls of 
cinnamon and one teaspoonful, each, of 
cloves and mace have been sifted. Last- 
ly, add the whites of four eggs beaten 
dry. Bake in a tube pan about one 
hour and a quarter. When cold cover 



Shave half a pound of "Dot" Choc- 
olate into a small (half -pint) receptacle; 
beat constantly while melting over, or in, 
a dish of lukewarm water. Drop the 
caramels on ball shapes, prepared as 
above, one by one, into the melted 
chocolate. With a candy dipper lift 
from the chocolate and drop on a piece 
of table oil-cloth. Do not add flavoring, 
water or any other article to the choc- 
olate. 




SPANISH CAKE 



with plain boiled frosting and decorate 
with small holly leaves, cut from thin 
slices of citron, and with small red 
berries. 

Opera Coffee Caramels 

Boil two cups of sugar and one cup 
of strong, clear coffee to soft ball or 
to between 236° and 238° on a sugar 
thermometer. Stir until the sugar is 
melted, cover and let cook two or three 
minutes, watching lest it boil over (on 
account of the coffee), then remove the 
cover and without stirring cook as above. 
Add three tablespoonfuls of butter. Re- 
move the dish of syrup to a pan of cold 
water; after a few minutes beat until 
creamy, then turn on to a marble slab 
and knead into a ball ; with a rolHng 
pin pat and roll into a sheet half an 
inch thick, then cut into cubes. Or, roll 
in the hands into small balls, ovals or 
other shapes. 

Coffee Caramels, Chocolate 
Dipped 



Opera Chocolate Caramels 

Use the above recipe, substituting 
water in the place of coffee, and when 
removing the syrup from the fire add 
between one and two ounces of melted 
chocolate and a teaspoonful of vanilla. 
Finish by dipping in "Dot" Chocolate. 

]Marshmallow Salad 

Cut fresh choice marshmallows in 
quarters and add an equal measure of 
cubes or blocks of fresh or canned pine- 
apples or peaches. Beat three-fourths 
a cup of double cream, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of 
paprika and two- or three tablespoonfuls 
of lemon juice until consistent through- 
out, then fold in the prepared ingredients. 
There should be about a cup, each, of 
fruit and marshmallows. Serve on 
heart leaves of lettuce in place of a 
dessert dish. If canned fruit be used, 
drain it carefully before mixing it into 
the dressing. Do not mix the fruit with 
the dressing until ready to serve it. 



Menus for Christmas Holidays 
^ ^^ ^^ 



Dinner 



I 



Consomme, Christmas Style 

(Cubes of spinach, or green pea, and 

tomato custard) 

Lobster Newburg in Ramekins or 

Timbale Cases 

Young Goose, Roasted, Apple Sauce 

Mashed Potato, Vienna Style 

Brussels Sprouts, Hollandaise Sauce 

Pineapple Sherbet 

Venison Timbales, 

Currant Jelly Sauce 

Celery-and-Orange Salad 

Plum Pudding, Hard Sauce and 

Wine Sauce 

Frozen Egg Nogg 

Macaroons 

Bonbons Nuts Coffee 



II 



Grapefruit Cocktail, Cherries 

Clam Broth 

Fish Timbales, Lobster Sauce 

Hot House Cucumbers 

Larded Fillet of Beef, Roasted, 

Bouquet Fashion 

Raspberry Sherbet 

Truffled Fillets of Chicken Breast, 

Perigueux Sauce 

Asparagus Cream Glace 

Frozen Pudding, Whipped Cream Sauce 

Bonbons Nuts 

Coffee 



^ ^ ^^ 

High Tea or Supper 



II 



Consomme a la Royal 

Terrine of Chicken and Ham 

Lettuce-and-Stringless Bean Salad 

Garnish of Tomato Jelly 

Hot Lady Finger Rolls 

Cake 

Chestnuts, Chantilly 

Coffee 



Grapefruit Cocktail 

Chicken Croquettes, Peas 

Parker House Rolls 

Cheese Balls 

Lettuce Salad 

Sponge Cake 

Cocoa, Whipped Cream 



III 

Chicken Broth 

Scalloped Oysters 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Olives Gherkins 

Lettuce or Endive, Roquefort Cheese 

Dressing 

English Muffins, Toasted 

Gateau St. Emilion 

Coffee 

Coffee Caramels, Chocolate Dipped 

^ ^ ^^ 



Buffet Luncheon 



Bouillon 
Galantine of Chicken, Chaudfroid 

Chicken-and-Celery Salad 

Mousse of Asparagus with Lettuce 

Parker House Rolls 

Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Frozen Pudding 

Chestnuts, Chantilly 

Marquise Sherbet 

Small Decorated Christmas Cakes 

Coffee 



II 



Scalloped Oysters in Shells 

Chicken Patties 

Lobster Croquettes, Peas 

Hot Rolls 

Sandwiches 

Large Decorated Cake 

Macaroons Christmas Wreaths (1910) 

Vanilla Ice Cream, Strawberry Sauce 

Bonbons Salted Nuts 

Marrons Glace 

Coffee 



241 



Inexpensive Menus for an Institution— ^ Adults 

To order dinner well involves an understanding of novelty, simplicity and good taste.' 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Rye Meal Biscuit, Reheated 

Dry Toast Dried Peaches, Stewed 

Coffee or Tea 

Dinner 

Chicken Pie, Cranberry Sauce 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style 

Celery Mashed Turnips 

Caramel Ice Cream (Junket) 

Cookies, Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Hot, Savory Rice 
(Cooked with tomato, onion, cheese) 

Bread and Butter 
Apples Stuffed with Dates, Baked, 

Thin Cream, Tea 



Breakfast 

Sausage Potatoes Cooked in Milk 

Hot Baked Apples 

Buckwheat Griddle Cakes 

Coffee Tea 

Dinner 

Fresh Codfish Chowder 

Philadelphia Relish 

Cranberry Pie Cheese 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Hashed Lamb on Toast 

Stewed Tomatoes or Lima Bean Salad 

Gingersnaps 

Tea or Cocoa 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 
Bananas, Plain, Sliced or Fried 

Broiled Bacon 

Graham Baking Powder Biscuit 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Hamburg Roast Franconia Potatoes 

Creamed Celery au Gratin 

Queen of Puddings or Squash Pie 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Cheese Pudding 

Stewed Prunes Hot Gingerbread 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cream Toast 

Frizzled Dried Beef 

Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boiled Corned Beef 

Boiled Cabbage Boiled Potatoes 

Boiled Turnips 

Baked Indian Pudding, Whipped Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 
Gnocchi a la Romaine 

Stewed Prunes or 

Celery-and-Apple Salad 

Yeast Rolls, Reheated or Fresh Baked 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Oranges or Cereal, Thin Cream 

Broiled Salt Mackerel 

White Hashed Potatoes 

Corn Meal Muffins or Corn Cake 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fore Quarter of Lamb, Steamed 

Boiled Potatoes Boiled Onions 

Stringless Beans, French Dressing 

Apple Dumplings 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Lamb-and-Tomato Soup 

Browned Crackers 

Cake with Chocolate Custard Filling 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash 

Home Made Pickles 

Rice Griddle Cakes, Syrup 

Dry Toast , Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fillets of Fresh Fish, Baked 

Bread Dressing Mashed Potatoes 

Pickled Beets or 

Scalloped Tomatoes and Onions 

Baked Apples with Jelly or 

Apple Pie Cheese 

Tea Coffee 

Supper 

Creamed Fish au Gratin 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Cabbage Salad 

Peanut Macaroons Coffee 



Breakfast 

Broiled Bacon 

Baked Potatoes 

Corn Aleal Mush, Fried 

Fried Bananas 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Roast Spare Ribs of Pork 

Apple Sauce 
Squash , Scalloped Cabbage 
Potatoes, Lemon Sherbet 
Cookies Tea 
242 



Supper 

Kornlet or ]\Iexican Rabbit 

Stewed Crab Apples 

Graham Muffins 

Tea 



Menu for a Week in December 

"It is both wholesome and agreeable to vary the food on different days, both as 
to the materials and mode of dressing them." — Walker. 



Breakfast 
Baked Apples Boiled Rice 
Sausage Hashed Potatoes 
Rye Meal Biscuit Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Halves of Grapefruit 

Roast Goose, Potato Stuffing 

Apple Sauce Brussels Sprouts 

Celery and Lettuce, French Dressing 

Mince Pie with Apple Meringue 

Nuts Bonbons Raisins 

Coffee 

Creamed Celery au Gratin 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Gateau St. Emilion 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Cold Boiled Ham, Mustard 

French Fried Potatoes 

Bread Crumb Griddle Cakes, Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Stewed Lima Beans (Dried) 

Boston Brown Bread , Doughnuts Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fowl, Steamed and Browned in Oven 

Giblet Sauce Cranberry Sauce 

Creamed Onions 

Mashed Potatoes Celery 

Stewed Figs, Thin Cream 

Marguerites , Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Broiled Salt Mackerel 

Baked Potatoes Pickled Beets 

Spider Corn Cake 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Scalloped Oysters 

Lettuce, Roquefort Cheese Dressing 

Lady Finger Rolls 

Apples in Jelly, Whipped Cream, Tea 

Dinner 

Celery Soup 

Beef Steak, Bernaise Sauce 

Baked Sweet Potatoes 

Canned String Beans 

Cottage Pudding, Foamy Sauce , Coffee 



Breakfast 

Hashed Fowl on Toast 

Potato Cakes, Browned 

Doughnuts Coffee 

Luncheon 

Hot Ham Sandwiches 

Philadelphia Relish 

Squash Pie 

Cocoa Tea 

Dinner 

Halibut, Sauted 

Cubes of Potato, Maitre d' Hotel 

Scalloped Cabbage 

Caramel-Coffee Jelly, Cream 

Cookies Tea 



Breakfast 

Cold Boiled Ham, Mustard 

Creamed Potatoes Graham Bread 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Cranberry Sauce or Grapefruit Marmalade 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Tomato Rabbit 

Stewed Prunes 

Dried Peach or Apple Cake 

Cocoa or Coffee 

Dinner 

Brown Gravy , Franconia Potatoes 

Squash au Gratin Cabbage Salad 

Stewed Figs Cream-Cheese 

Toasted Crackers 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Boned Leg of Lamb, Roasted 



Breakfast 

Broiled Bacon 

Fried Bananas 

Rice Griddle Cakes, Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Oyster Stew 

Olives 

Cranberry Pie Edam Cheese 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Shepherd's Pie (Cold leg of lamb) 

Scalloped Tomatoes and Onions 

Carrot Pudding, Hard and Syrup Sauce 

(Steamed plum) 

Browned Crackers Cheese 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Waffles, Maple Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Grapefruit Cocktail 
Roast Domestic Ducks 
Grape or Black Currant Jelly 
Mashed Potatoes Mashed Turnips 

Celery Salad 
Mince Pie with Apple Meringue 
Grapes Coffee 

243 



Supper 

Smoked Halibut, Curried 

Boiled Rice 

Stewed or Canned Fruit 

Cookies Tea 



Lessons in Elementary Cooking 

By Mary Chandler Jones 

Teacher of Cookery in the Public Schools of Erookline, Mass. 

Lesson XV. 

Gelatine 



DURING our study of fruit cook- 
ery, we found that a jelly is 
formed from fruit juices by the 
development in them of a substance 
which is called "pectin." This closely 
resembles the vegetable gums. On being 
boiled it becomes first, "pectosic acid," 
which stiffens to a jelly when cold, and 
next "pectic acid," a jelly hot or cold. 
All fruits do not, however, contain this 
''pectin," so that we must seek some 
other material for stiffening, if we wish 
to make a jelly flavored with them. 
Vegetables, also, must be artificially 
molded, if we wish to make them into 
jelly, as for instance, tomato jelly for 
salad. For such stiffening material we 
use gelatine. The word gelatine is de- 
rived from the Latin verb gelare, "to 
congeal." 

Gelatine, as we are able to buy it to- 
day, is a very different matter from the 
"calves' foot jelly" prepared by our 
great-grandmothers. They began with 
the raw material, and, after many cleans- 
ing processes, with much boiling, ex- 
tracted their own gelatine. This they 
then flavored and made into jelly, much 
as we do now-a-days. To-day the chem- 
ist and manufacturer have taken this 
work out of the home kitchen, to the 
joy of anyone who has ever undertaken 
the preparation of gelatine by the old 
method. 

Gelatine is one of the foods called 
■ "albuminoids." It is of animal origin 
and is similar to the proteids, though 
not a proteid. We shall see later what 
its food value may be considered. It 
is manufactured from the bones, hoofs, 
skin, tendons and other inedible portions 
of the animal. These are heated under 



pressure and the product is thoroughly 
cleansed and purified. Less carefully 
prepared, this product becomes "glue," 
which closely resembles gelatine. One 
of the purest gelatines, as well as one 
of the most expensive, is made from the 
air-bladder of the sturgeon and is known 
as isinglass. It is really no better for 
practical use than its more common and 
cheaper companions. 

(Let the pupils recall the jelly they 
have seen form about the joints and 
bones of a chicken, stewed in any way ; 
also the thick, solid jelly of the soup 
stock beneath its coating of fat, after 
the stock is thoroughly cold. From what 
was this jelly derived in both cases? For 
soup stock do we choose meat, bone, or 
a proportion of each? What propor- 
tion?) 

The manufacturer furnishes us with 
three kinds of gelatine, sheet, stick and 
powdered. The sheet gelatine must be 
cut into pieces with scissors before it 
may be utilized. The powdered form 
requires very little, if any, soaking. It 
is, therefore, more convenient when the 
time is limited for preparing a dish, as 
it often is in class. Some of the pow- 
dered gelatines upon the market have 
very slight stiffening power, so care 
must be taken to use a sufficient quan- 
tity. A good gelatine must have no 
odor or -taste, so nearly as that is pos- 
sible, and must yield a transparent, 
straw-colored jelly, sparkling and clear. 
Colored gelatines, like most artificially 
colored foods, should be regarded with 
suspicion. 

To find out the best way for cooking 
gelatine, let the pupils try certain ex- 
periments that they may see its behavior 



244 



LESSONS IN ELEMENTARY COOKING 



245 



2 tablespoonfuls of 
cold water 



under different conditions. Granulated 
(or powdered) gelatine may best be 
used in these experiments, since it re- 
sponds more rapidly than do the others. 
Our experiments naturally concern first 
its solubility in water at different tem- 
peratures. 
Experiment I. 

* a teaspoonful of 
dry gelatine 

Let these stand for a few minutes and 
notice the appearance of the gelatine. 
Experiment II. 

Cover a few pieces of the stick or 
sheet gelatine with cold water and com- 
pare with the former experiment. Is the 
water absorbed as readily? Why? 
Experiment III. 

2 tablespoonfus of I J a teaspoonful of 
cold water \ gelatine 

i a cup of warm water 

Experiment IV. 

Use the same ingredients as in Ex- 
periment III., but have the one-half a 
cup of warm Avater boiling water, in- 
stead. 

Compare this experiment with the 
previous one. 
Experiment V. 

Chill both thoroughly and report re- 
sults. What difference do vou see? 
Why? 
'Experiment VI. 

Boil the mixture in Experiment III. 
and then chill it. What happens during 
the boihng? Does it harden readily af- 
terward ? 

Let the pupils formulate for them- 
selves, as a result of these experiments, 
that :— 

L Gelatine softens and swells in cold 
water, is dissolved in boiling water and 
turns to a jelly upon being chilled. 

2. Gelatine must not be boiled, as it 
loses its power to stiffen. 

To illustrate the cookery of gelatine 
dishes, prepare first lemon jelly. 

Lemon Jelly 



4 tablespoonfuls 

lemon juice 
i a cup of sugar 



of i U 



cups of boiling 
water 



Mix together the sugar and lemon 
juice. Let the gelatine and cold water 
stand together for a few minutes, then 
pour the boiling water over it. Add the 
sugar and lemon juice and strain into a 
cold, wet mould. Let it stand on ice or 
in a cold place to stiffen. 

(W^hat precaution must be taken as to 
the boiling water?) 

This recipe may be made into snow 
pudding by the addition of the white of 
tgg, beaten to a stiff froth, during the 
cooling. 

Snozv Pudding 

When the lemon jelly is cooled to 
about the consistency of thick cream, 
beat into it thoroughly the stiff-beaten 
whites of two eggs. Put into a cold, wet 
mold to stift'en or pile lightly on a dish 
for serving. ^lake the yolks of the eggs 
into a soft custard to serve with the 
snow pudding. 



Coffee Jelly 



1 tablespoonful of 
granulated gela- 
tine 

i a cup of boiling 
water 



i a cup of cold water 
3 tablespoonfuls of 

sugar 
1 cup of strong cof- 
fee (boiling) 



2 teaspoonfuls of 
granulated gela- 
tine 



tablespoonfuls of 
cold water 



Put together like the lemon jelly. (Let 
the pupils make these directions for 
themselves.) 

Serve the coffee jelly in a mold, or 
cut it into cubes and turn out on a dish. 
Serve with it cream and sugar or 
whipped cream, flavored with vanilla 
and sweetened. 

Whip4)ed Cream 

i a cup of thick | 3 tablespoonfuls of 
cream | powdered sugar 

2 tablespoonfuls of I i a teaspoonful ©f 
milk I vanilla 

Mix the milk and cream and beat 
until it begins to be thick. Add the 
sugar and vanilla and beat again. Be 
very careful not to beat it too long. 
(W^hat is the danger in too long beat- 
ing? Whv is the milk added? If there 



246 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



is no milk a very small amount of water 
may be mixed with the cream, to serve 
the same purpose.) 

The use of gelatine with milk or cus- 
tard may be illustrated by the prepara- 
tion of 

Spanish Cream 
1 tablespoonful of 



gela- 



i a cup of sugar 
1-16 a teaspoonful of 

salt 
i a teaspoonful of 

vanilla 



granulated 

tine 
li cups of milk 
2 eggs 

Scald the milk, reserving three table- 
spoonfuls cold, to soften the gelatine. 
Separate the eggs and beat the whites 
very stiff. Add the sugar and salt to the 
yolks, beaten to a froth. Pour the 
scalded milk over the softened gelatine, 
then pour this mixture over the beaten 
yolks and return to the double boiler. 
Cook slowly over hot water until the 
mixture thickens evenly. (It must be 
stirred gently and constantly during this 
cooking.) Remove from the heat and 
cool, then beat in the stiff white of 
eggs. Chill in cold, wet molds. 

If the time for preparing gelatine 
dishes be short, let the pupils see that 
a larger proportion of gelatine will has- 
ten the process of stiffening. Too much 
gelatine, however, is likely to give a dis- 
agreeable flavor and, with too long time 
for hardening, to produce a tough, leath- 
ery consistency. 

The food value of gelatine has been 
a somewhat disputed point. Long ago, 
the calves' foot jelly which our great- 
grandmothers prepared was considered 
a most nourishing and strengthening 
dish. It was a delicacy given to inva- 
lids, not only because it was cooling and 
tempting to the palate but also because 



it was beheved to have much value as 
a body-builder. In the early part of the 
nineteenth century a commission was 
appointed by the French Academy of 
Sciences, to determine whether soup 
made by boiling bones was, indeed, a 
suitable food for hospital patients. This 
commission worked for about ten years, 
then reported that gelatine was not a 
nutritious food. 

Later experiments have in a measure 
contradicted their conclusions. Gelatine 
has a place to fill in our diet, aside from 
its mere attractiveness in form and 
color. It furnishes no real nourishment, 
but it may be called a "proteid saver." 
It is comparatively easy of digestion and 
not in any sense actually unwholesome, 
as Baron Liebig once contended. The 
desserts prepared with it owe their 
value very largely to the cream, custard 
and other sauces with which they are 
served. They are often far more at- 
tractive, especially in summer, with their 
sparkling, refreshing coolness, than are 
heavier puddings. They are, also, more 
digestible and for that reason more suit- 
able for the finishing touch of a hearty 
dinner, which may already have taxed 
the digestive powers of the diner. On 
the other hand, two great elaboration and 
fussiness are frequently shown in the 
making of fancy gelatine dishes. In 
England, particularly, it is considered 
a very great ornament to a dinner table 
to have upon it a mold of gelatine jelly, 
mysterious in color and wonderful in 
design — sometimes fearful to the taste! 
Let simplicity be the keynote in the 
preparation of these desserts as well as 
in all the operations of the kitchen. 



Success 
By Stokely S. Fisher 

Happy the reaping where good seeds are sown ! 
But happiest he who sows the provident seed 
Of future harvests for the common need, 

Though giving all, and seen by God alone ! 



The Breakfast Rut 



By Anne Guilbert Mahon 



JOHN never wants anything for 
his breakfast, but bacon and eggs 
and coffee. I always know what 
I am going to have. It really saves a 
great deal of trouble." 

This is the cry of many a housewife 
in our land today, although the name is 
not always "John" and the breakfast 
menu in question is not always ''bacon 
and eggs and coffee." It stands for a 
type, however, whatever may be the 
name of the good man of the house, and 
whatever may be the bill of fare chosen 
for the routine breakfast. 

The practice is easily fallen into and 
sometimes unconsciously pursued. Grant- 
ed that ''John" does like the "bacon and 
eggs and coffee," does he ever have a 
chance to decline anything else in the way 
of breakfast dishes ? Does he not always 
adhere to the same menu, because there 
is nothing else provided in the way of 
variety? Are there not times when a 
watchful wife and housekeeper would 
notice that "John" did not eat all his 
bacon and eggs, nor drink all his coffee, 
that there were times when "John had no 
appetite" ? 

It is still a custom in some parts of 
the country, at the first approach of cold 
weather, to serve the time-honored 
breakfast of sausages and buckwheat 
cakes and to continue serving them — 
with no variations — until the warm 
weather again makes its appearance. 
There are strong constitutions, used to 
hard work work and living much in the 
open, who thrive on such steady diet, but 
ihtre are many others whose weak diges- 
tions and "stomach troubles" of later 
years could be traced to this cause. Hot 
sausages and steaming buckwheat cakes, 
with plenty of good maple syrup, are 
very appealing on a morning when the 
thermometer reaches the zero mark. 
They are appetizing, heat-producing and 



satisfying, but even this delectable bill 
of fare should have its variations, if it 
would be not only beneficial, but thor- 
oughly enjoyed. 

A man who had never outgrown the 
tender recollections of his boyhood days 
on the farm, when morning after morn- 
ing, the plate of hot cakes would steam 
on the table — cooked as only "mother" 
could cook them — reached middle age, 
still a bachelor. He pubHshed it broad- 
cast that he would never marry until he 
found someone who could make buck- 
wheat cakes like his mother's, and that 
he would have them for breakfast every 
morning during the winter. 

At last he found what he was looking 
for. It was rumored that there was an 
ante-nuptial contract that the wife should 
serve him with buckwheat cakes every 
morning, but certain it was that she did 
serve them and that they were really 
equal to his mother's — even he had to 
acknowledge it. 

For weeks and even months he reveled 
in his favorite dish, but, when the winter 
drew near its end and while there were 
still vistas of many more buckwheat cake 
breakfasts before him, his spirit revolted. 
He hated to "give in," but the breakfast 
rut at forty years appealed to him very 
differently than it had at fourteen. He 
cudgeled his brains for a way of escape. 
He could not bring himself to acknowl- 
edge that he was actually tired — heartily 
sick and tired — of the cakes, especially 
when they were so irreproachable in 
every way, but, morning after morning, 
the pile of crisp brown cakes disappeared 
more and more slowly. 

At last a happy thought struck him. 

"Julia," he said to his wife, "I have 
been thinking a lot lately and I've come 
to the conclusion that I've been awfully 
selfish about those buckwheat cakes. 
Here you have been stewing over the hot 



247 



248 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



stove every morning all winter to cook 
them for me. I shall not allow you to 
make such a slave of yourself any longer. 
After this I am going without the buck- 
wheat cakes. Fix up something else for 
breakfast, but, no more buckwheat cakes 
for me !" 

Of course, Julia opened her eyes, and 
of course, she demurred, but her hus- 
ba'nd was firm. From that day buck- 
wheat cakes were banished from his 
house, and Julia — who is a simple soul — 
tells everyone of her husband's wonder- 
ful consideration for her and his un- 



selfishness. 

Even in the country to-day there is 
such a variety of food procurable, and 
there are so many good lists of menus 
printed in all the women's magazines 
which offer practical and valuable assis- 
tance to the woman whose originality 
fails her, that there is no excuse for any 
houshold to get into the breakfast rut. 
It is any easy thing to get into, but, it is 
also easy to get out of it, if the house- 
wife will once apply herself and find out 
the benefit and enjoyment attendant upon 
a change of breakfast menus. 



A Plea for the Hospital Dietitian 



By Alice E. Urquhart 



Former Instructor of Dietetics, The John Hopkins School for Xurses, Bait more, Md. 



A GREAT deal has been written 
concerning the teaching of do- 
mestic science in schools and col- 
leges, but very little is said of the most 
important branch of the work, the teach- 
ing of dietetics in our hospitals, and the 
position which the dietitian holds in the 
domestic science world. 

Having been an instructor in dietetics 
in two of our large hospitals, I have from 
my work there, and from observation in 
other hospitals, formed some decided 
opinions about dietitians and the relations 
they have to hospital work. Two im- 
portant points come to my mind for dis- 
cussion : first, the training of the dieti- 
tian and second, her position and work in 
the hospital. 

There are perhaps no branches of hos- 
pital science which has gone through 
more changes in the last twenty years, 
or made more progress than the dietetic 
treatment of the sick. The medical pro- 



fession realizes now. as never before, the 
great importance of diet in disease. It 
has been said that in some diseases the 
dietetic treatment is of more value than 
the nursing. How important it is, then, 
that the dietitian should have every pos- 
sible advantage in preparing for her 
work. The nurse is most carefully 
trained for her work by three years of 
study in a hospital, but how inadequate 
is the training which is usually offered to 
the dietitian ! 

Let us consider the average instruction 
which the dietitian receives. At the pres- 
ent time I know of no school or course of 
study devoted especially to the training of 
dietitians. The would-be dietitian, as a 
rule, takes a two year course in domestic 
science in one of our technical schools, 
such as the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, 
or the Drexel Institute in Philadelphia. 
This course is designed especially for 
teachers of tiomestic science. Here she 



PLEA FOR THE HOSPITAL Dn^:TITL\N 



249 



receives a teacher's training in the theory 
and practice of cookery, and the chemis- 
try of food. Only a short part of the 
course is devoted to invahd cookery and 
the dietetic treatment of the sick. She 
graduates and, with absolutely no knowl- 
edge of hospitals or hospital life, seeks 
a position as dietitian. It is only when 
she begins to face some of the problems 
of hospital life- that she begins to realize 
how incomplete has been the preparation 
for her work. 

The duties of the dietitian are anything 
but constant. They vary greatly accord- 
ing to the hospital. Two duties she is 
sure to have, however : first, she will in 
some way supervise the praparation of 
the food for the patients, and she will 
instruct the nurses of the training school 
in dietetics. In a small hospital, the 
dietitian frequently does all the catering 
and buying, and often takes the place of 
a housekeeper for the institution. In 
the large hospital, where more than one 
dietitian is employed, she has nothing to 
do with the buying of the food, but orders 
what she wants from a purveyor, and 
superintends the preparation of the food 
in the diet kitchen. This kitchen sup- 
plies the food only to the private 
patients, the public wards being served 
from a main kitchen with which the 
dietitian, as a rule, has nothing to do. 
In most hospitals the nurses prepare all 
or part of the food in the diet kitchen, 
under the direction of the dietitian. In 
addition to this she gives a course of lec- 
tures to the nurses in dietetics and in- 
valid cookery. She has the same hours 
©f duty as the nurses ; from seven in the 
morning until seven in the evening, with 
perhaps two hours oiT during that time, 
and she has to herself only one-half day 
a week. Sundays and holidays are not 
observed in hospital work. 

Let me say a word here about hospital 
etiquette, in order to make clear some of 
the problems the dietitian has to face. 
The training school of a hospital may 
well be likened to an army. The super- 
intendents and head nurses correspond 



to the officers and the pupil nurses to the 
men. There is just as great a barrier 
between the superintendents and the pupil 
nurses as between officers and men in 
the army, and just as much precision 
in the execution of every order given. 
Class distinction between the nurses is 
most carefully observed. A pupil nurse 
would not think of speaking to a super- 
intendent, while on duty, unless she were 
spoken to. She would not precede a head 
nurse through a doorway or sit down 
in her presence. These rules are neces- 
sary for the maintenance of good dis- 
cipline and good order among the nurses, 
just as they are necessary to accomplish 
the best work in the army. 

The dietitian ranks with the head 
nurses, and is one of the superintendent's 
staff, but she is "not a nurse," and in 
those three words, "not a nurse," we find 
the root of many of her troubles. She 
is apt to feel from the time she enters 
the hospital that she is an outsider. She 
cannot make friends among the pupil 
nurses* as this would be mixing "officers" 
and "men ;" the head nurses, at whose 
table she sits in the dining room, are apt 
to think that, since she is not a nurse, 
she can have no interest in their special 
work, and the consequence is she is apt 
to be left out of their conversation to a 
great extent. 

In many hospitals the probation nurses 
are sent to the diet kitchen as soon as 
they enter the training school, and it is 
there they begin their training under a 
dietitian who knows nothing of hospital 
methods herself. At the end of six or 
eight weeks the probationer goes from 
the diet kitchen to her work in the wards, 
and the superintendent cannot under- 
stand why she knows so little of the ways 
of the hospital, after nearly two months 
spent within its walls. How unreason- 
able it is to expect the dietitian, with no 
hospital training, to be able to train 
nurses according to hospital discipline! 

Very few of our domestic science 
graduates become dietitians, although 
this branch of the work is much better 



!50 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



paid than teaching in the pubhc schools. 
The salary of the dietitian ranges from 
$600.00 to $1200.00 a year, and in addi- 
tion to this she receives her board and 
laundry in the hospital. The hours are 
long, and it means work every day in 
the week, but what she makes is clear. 

In a class of thirty girls, graduating 
recently from a domestic science school, 
four entered hospitals as dietitians, — 
three of them gave up their positions 
before a year had passed. The general 
complaint is that the work is hard, — 
hard because they are not properly pre- 
pared for it. The dietitian lacks the 
hospital training which she should have, 
in order to carry on her work success- 
fully. She must have the nurse's point 
of view or she will not succeed. Her 
work is hospital work, and she must, 
therefore, understand the hospital be- 
fore she attempts to instruct the nurses 
in its training school. 

Several plans present themselves as 
a possible solution of the problem. First, 
let the would-be dietitian take a course of 
one and one-half or two years in a do- 
mestic science school, and then spend 
three or four months in a hospital, work- 
ing, at least half of that time, in the diet 
kitchen with the nurses. In this way 
she will get an insight into hospital 
life before she takes up her duties 
as dietitian. Surely this co-operation 
of work between the domestic science 
school and the hospital could be 
arranged with great advantage to both 
the dietitian and the hospital. Some of 



the large hospitals are now taking what 
they call "pupil dietitians" for three or 
six months. These pupil dietitians are 
domestic science students who have en- 
tirely or partially completed their courses 
of study and who enter the hospital to 
work under the head dietitian for three 
or six months, as the case may be. This 
is surely a step in the right direction, 
but there is no co-operation between any 
particular hospital and a domestic science 
school. What is needed is a definite 
course of study in which a Hospital and 
a Domestic Science School shall unite, 
in order to establish a training for the 
dietitian that will make her equal to her 
task. 

I will outline briefly another plan 
which might prove available. Each year 
many of the large hospitals send one or 
more of their graduate nurses to take 
the course in Hospital Economics at 
Teachers' College, Columbia University, 
and thus fit themselves for hospital 
superintendents. Why not send one of 
the graduate nurses to take a course in 
'dietetics in the Domestic Science Depart- 
ment of the same College? The result 
would be a dietitian understanding 
thoroughly the needs of the hospital, and 
the needs of the nurses intrusted to her 
for instruction. 

We can only hope that in the near 
fxiture a course of study for dietitians 
may be established, which will include 
a training not only in Household 
Economics, but in Hospital Economics as 
well. 



When Katherine Cooks 



The blue of August's cloudless skies, 
Scarce dimmed by earth, I clearly see, 

Reflected in her limpid eyes,^- 
\A'hen Katherine smiles up at me. 



Unnumbered streams in rhythm flow ; 

The sky-lark up to heaven's gate wings ; 
And fragrant blossoms nod and glow 

Within my heart, — when Katherine sings. 



But measureless and deep content. 
Unheard in song, unwrit in books, 

Enfolds my spirit, and, unspent 

Brings joy serene, — when Katherine cooks. 

H. L. M. 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 

paid for at reasonable rates. 



Dispensing Hospitality 

SOME women preside at a dinner 
table, and even serve tea and muf- 
fins with such grace and charm of man- 
ner that one is led to believe that suc- 
cessful hostesses, like poets, are born 
and not made. Yet the art of entertain- 
ing may be cultivated, and as each of 
us, at one time or another, must act as 
hostess, it behooves us to see to it, that 
the dispensing of a gracious hospitality 
does not become a lost art. 

The man whose wife is a "good en- 
tertainer,' 'is the envied of all his men 
friends. He may act upon impulse and 
take an unexpected guest home to din- 
ner, knowing that his wife will give him 
and his guest a cordial welcome and, 
after all, the welcome's the thing, for 
nobody minds ''pot luck," when served 
with pleasantry and graciousness. Pri- 
vately and under one's breath it may be 
said that this same husband, and every 
other in like circumstances, should send 
a telephone message to his wife, and if 
he is unusually thoughtful and consid- 
erate, he will carry a box of sweets or 
some dainty to help out the dessert. The 
man who does this will be told that he 
is "a dear," and that he may bring com- 
pany whenever he likes. 

Looked at from one point of view, 
women may generally be divided into 
two classes ; those who know how to 
entertain and those who do not. All the 
graces are not given to one woman, but 
the one to whom they do not come na- 
turally may attain a certain degree of 



proficiency, if she will but take the 
trouble. 

First of all she must remember that 
any guest in her house, bidden or other- 
wise, must be met with a welcome that 
will put him at his ease at once ; self 
poise and cordiaHty of manner will do 
this. A guest who sees that he has 
''flustered" his hostess is most uncom- 
fortable and feels that there is but one 
thing to do. and that is to eliminate him- 
self as quickly as possible. 

The hospitality of great functions is 
hardly hospitality at all ; one salutes a 
friend, feeds him and says farewell, and 
both he and his hostess are glad when 
it is all over. The genuine and generous 
hospitality of the west is becoming effete 
and while, occasionally, it was too dif- 
fuse, it were better this than the other 
way, and one is led to regret its passing. 
The self centered woman, who is think- 
ing of nothing but herself and her affairs, 
is never a successful hostess. She will 
be stiff and formal in spite of herself 
and will never remember your name nor 
"how many lumps" you take in tea or 
coffee. 

She is not the woman to whom, even 
in an unguarded moment, you would 
blurt out the truth about anything. The 
smallest coin current in society will do 
for her. 

The woman who likes you and all her 
friends sincerely, and has sufficient curi- 
osity about your affairs to be conversant 
with them, — remembers your fads and 
fancies and knows enough about them 
to converse intelligently with the assur- 



251 



252 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



ance of a certain amount of knowledge ; 
the woman who forgets .herself entirely 
and for the moment remembers only you, 
this is the woman who adds wonderfully 
to the gaiety of nations and makes life 
seem more worth the living for many a 
poor mortal. May her tribe increase. 

L. E. D. 

* * # 

Nantucket Chowder 

NANTUCKET chowder, like the old 
lady's mince pie, is "victuals and 
drink and a night's lodging." Fish, 
fowl or vegetable, the process is practi- 
cally the same, and the results equally 
satisfactory on the different planes. This 
Nantucket chowder is not a milk-and- 
watery soup, with an evanescent sugges- 
tion of the shore at low tide, that is 
sometimes served as a course in houses 
where the chef draws salary enough to 
know better. Neither is it the hetero- 
geneous mass, known in some parts of 
New England as chowder, but which is 
really a sort of stew, consisting of fish, 
corn, tomatoes, onions, potatoes, and 
crackers, hard and fast aground on the 
bottom of the tureen, and hardly moist- 
ened by a substance neither liquid nor 
solid, but both, like a quicksand. 

There are many subjects besides that 
of ''pound rounds" on which Nantucket 
can give points to the "Continent ;" 
chowder, for instance. For its achieve- 
ment these are the steps of approach. 

Fish Chowder 

For a moderate-sized codfish w^eighing 
five or six pounds, a half-pound of salt 
pork is sufficient. Scrape it, cut it into 
slices and then into small cubes and put 
it into a round-bottomed iron pot to fry. 
The pot should be big enough to hold 
four quarts of chowder. When the pork 
begins to sizzle, turn in four good-sized 
onions, peeled and cut fine. Stir fre- 
quently to prevent burning. Cook until 
the onions are golden brown and the 
pork scraps nearly cinnamon color, or 
at least dark tan. One old cook-book 
suggests using a bit of water with the 



pork and onions to prevent burning, but 
a little care will give better results than 
water. If a modern flat-bottomed pot is 
to be used for the chowder, the pork and 
onions may, of course, be fried in a pan 
and then turned into the pot. The ideal, 
however, is a satin-smooth iron pot^ 
round-bottomed and three-legged, set over 
a glowing coal fire ; but moderns must do 
the best they can. While the pork and 
onions are frying, scrape the fish thor- 
oughly, working from the tail towards 
the head. Cut in pieces four or five inches 
square and wash in cold water. If pota- 
toes are used, they should be peeled and 
cut in rather thick slices. Put in cold 
water until needed. When the pork and 
onions are done, pour in boiling water to 
the quantity desired, from two to three 
quarts. When it boils again stir vigor- 
ously and put in the potatoes. Boil ten 
minutes and then add the pieces of fish, 
placing them flesh side down. Boil until 
the flesh easily leaves the bone, — about 20 
minutes. Make a thickening of a cup of 
flour and a pint of milk, salt and pepper. 
Beat a little cold water into the flour 
first, then add the milk by degrees. Use 
a silver fork and beat until there are no 
lumps. Stir into the boiling chowder, 
taste and add more seasoning if re- 
quired. Boil up once or twice and' the 
chowder is ready. It should be of the 
consistency of a cream soup, but not 
thick enough to suggest a puree or 
thickened gravy. 

Accompaniments 

There is no modern substitute for the 
pilot-bread or ship-buiscuit, sweet with 
the sweetness of the flour, big as dessert 
plates, and splitting easily into the two 
parts without crumbing, crispy and 
"chewy" and delicious, — gone, alas, for- 
ever, with the glory and the ships, leav- 
ing behind water crackers for the treat- 
ment of which 32 molars would not be 
too many, or crackers that dissolve like 
glue in the mouth and so require no 
teeth at all. 

But the sweet-pickled lime is still with 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



253 



lis. It is the proper accompaniment for 
fish chowder and is still the favorite 
pickle for the delicious Nantucket cold 
meat suppers. We no longer spear them, 
in our own cellar, from the cask that 
came home in the ship from Cape Horn, 
together with cocoanuts and walnuts and 
Castile nuts from the same vague, but 
prolific source. The grocers, however, can 
supply them. Put the limes in cold water 
and let it come to a boil. Cook ten min- 
utes and throw the water away. Repeat 
the process as long as patience or the 
kitchen fire holds out. The water should 
be changed four times at least. Skim 
them out and put them in a big bowl to 
cool. Make a thick syrup of sugar and 
water, using a half-cup of vinegar to a 
quart of water. Cook the syrup until it 
is as thick as molasses. Let it get cold. 
Prick each lime two or three times with a 
silver fork. When they and the syrup 
are cold, put them together and let them 
stand over night. The syrup will then 
be thinned by the juice of the limes. If 
it is too watery, boil it over again. Put 
the limes in jars and pour the cold syrup 
over them. They will keep indefinitely — 
if nobody knows they are in the store- 
closet. 

Meat Sticks or Skewers 

A meat-stick is an unobtrusive little 
article, but it is really a valuable instru- 
ment when its various uses are discov- 
ered. Besides it is the only perquisite 
one ever gets from the butcher, so it 
ought to be appreciated. Wash each one 
that comes and drop it in a convenient 
box or drawer. 

Nothing better can be found for clean- 
ing the corners of moldings and window- 
frames and the holes of sink strainers, 
or the handles of big baking-pans. For 
planting seeds in boxes or pots they are 
invaluable, and can be used afterwards 
to hold the labels. 

One clever girl used them for mucilage 
brushes and they met with such instant 
approval that she makes dozens of them, 
bunching them and tying them with rib- 



bon, six in a bunch, which she bestows 
on her friends. When several people 
are working together, making scrap- 
books or paper flowers, or something 
else that requires the constant use of a 
small brush, it is inconvenient not to 
have one for each. person, but that is a 
rare luxury. 

Two or three pots of paste, however, 
(or saucers, if the paste is home-made) 
and a bundle of meat-sticks will carry 
joy to the hearts of the workers, and 
the results of their toil will be surpris- 
ingly satisfactory. 

To prepare the meat-stick, take a strip 
of white musHn about an inch wide, pull 
off the loose ravelings, and wind the 
strip of cloth firmly, two or three times 
around the large end of the meat-stick 
letting a quarter of an inch of the mus- 
lin extend beyond the wood. Then wind 
and tie firmly with coarse cotton or fine 
cord. That is all there is to the process 
of converting a meat-stick into a most 
usable brush. 

A meat-stick is far better than a pen 
or pencil for marking boxes. Shoe- 
blacking is better than ink for the pur- 
pose. M. s. 
* * * 

Three Substantial Courses for 
Ten Cents 

IN these days of high prices we house- 
keepers are obliged to plan some, if 
not many, inexpensive meals. 

One small economy which I have 
evolved is this : Some day, usually Sat- 
urday, when I have also a large order 
to give, I ask my market man to bring 
me ten cents' worth of small pieces of 
beef. This he understands to include 
also bits of either lamb, or fresh pork, 
if he happens to have them. He usually 
brings me about a pound of small pieces 
or trimmings of fairly clear meat. 

I wash them carefully, and put them 
on to boil, adding salt, and a small onion, 
and let simmer until tender. 

The next morning, take half the meat ; 
carefully free it from bits of gristle and 



254 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



fat ; chop, moisten with tomato sauce, or 
any good gravy — tomato sauce is best — 
and put on nicely prepared toast for the 
main breakfast dish. 

The next day, chop the remainder of 
the meat, and, with the addition of po- 
tato and seasoning, make a dish of hash, 
nicely browned in the spider. 

The broth in which the meat was 
boiled, strain carefully, add enough water 
to make a quart or more after boiling 
away, and about a cup of fine-chopped 
vegetables — carrot, turnip, onion, potato, 
and a bit of celery if at hand. Stew 
about two hours until everything is per- 
fectly tender. Season rather highly with 
salt and pepper, and chopped parsley, 
and the result is a perfectly deHcious 
vegetable soup, substantial enough to 
offset a rather slender meat course at 
dinner or lunch. 

I would add that, if I have no tomato 
sauce prepared, I open a can of tomato 
soup and use a small amount for moist- 
ening the chopped beef. I find this to- 
mato soup invaluable for use in this 
way, as a sauce or flavoring as well as 
for a foundation for Mock Bisque, and 
always keep it on hand. f. s. 

* # # 

The Newest Candies 

PRETTY candy favors for the table, 
or for garnishing the top layer of 
large boxes of candy, consist of a pure 
white creamy fondant encased in frilled 
papers, and decorated "with very small but 
very perfect sugar flowers, which are 
triumphs of the candy-chef's peculiar 
art and skill. 

For instance, one holds on its surface 
a small pink rose with a green stem ; 
another has a violet or two; a third is 
a dark red carnation, not as pretty as 
the others, but giving variety; while the 
very daintiest of all is a small lily of the 
valley leaf with a stalk of blossoms rest- 
ing against it. 

These may be seen at leading con- 
fectioners, and if one lives remote from 
large cities, such candies may be easily 



packed for shipment to use as presents 
for holidays, the decoration of birthday 
cakes, etc. 

Candy Grapes 

We have long been familiar with the 
various pastes, — fig paste, orange paste, 
creme de menthe paste, etc., — but a new 
way of arranging these conduces to 
pretty table arrangment, or forms a 
tempting little gift. 

Pieces of the fig paste are cut about 
the size of grapes and neatly twisted in 
the best wax paper, then by the aid of 
narrowest ribbon of like color, or stem 
color, they are bunched in perfect imita- 
tion of grape clusters and attached to a 
section of grape stem about three inches 
long bearing a few leaves — artificial, of 
course. These may be arranged on lace 
doylies in any suitable dishes, or laid as 
favors by the plates. 

For an invalid's room nothing could 
be more dainty, and well protected from 
heat and dust, since each piece is cov- 
ered; so placed beside the bed, a bunch 
looks attractive and can be enjoyed, a 
piece at a time. 

The colors are pale green, yellowish 
white, and reddish, — like Tokay grapes. 
These are the latest novelty. j. d. c. 

* * :* 

Mother's Lemon Pie 

Grated rind and juice of one lemon, 
one cup boiling w^ater, one cup sugar, 
yolks of two eggs, butter the size of an 
egg, one slice of white bread, broken 
fine (about one cup). Beat the yolks 
of the eggs well and add to the sugar 
and butter. Pour the boiling water onto 
the bread and stir until well mixed, then 
add the sugar, eggs and butter. Bake in 
a deep plate, lined with pastry : when' 
done, whip the whites of the eggs to a 
stiff froth, add one tablespoonful of 
sugar; pile this upon the top of the pie 
and return to the oven until it is a deli- 
cate brown. This is the nicest lemon 
pie I ever tasted. c. h. b. 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating 
to recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answers by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit $1.00. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, editor, Boston Cooking School Magazine, 372 Boylston St , Boston, Mass. 



Query 1771. — "Recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream 
made with- Junket and ways of varying it to 

form fancy 'Coupes.' " 

Vanilla Ice Cream with Junket 

Crush and dissolve a junket tablet 
in a tablespoonful of cold water. Heat 
a quart of milk, a cup of double cream, 
and a cup of sugar to about 90° F. 
Stir in one tablespoonful of vanilla ex- 
tract and the dissolved tablet; let stand 
in a warm place until the mixture jellies, 
then let cool and freeze. 

Pineapple Coupe 

Put a tablespoonful of canned, grated 
or crushed pineapple in the bottom of a 
sherbet glass; above dispose a rounding 
tablespoonful of the ice cream, and finish 
with a tablespoonful of the pineapple 
above the cream. The canned pineapple 
is sweet enough for. general use. 

Caramel-Nut Cup 

Put a tablespoonful of caramel syrup 
in a glass, put in a generous ball of 
vanilla ice cream, pour in a second table- 
spoonful of the syrup and sprinkle with 
chopped pecan nut meats. Maple syrup 
may replace the caramel syrup. 

Coupe Bartholdi 

Put a little vanilla ice cream in a 
glass cup ; on this dispose two maca- 
roons, broken in bits ; on the macaroons 
set half a preserved or brandied peach 
and fill the space left by the peach stone 
with red bar-le-duc currants. Fill the 



space between the peach and the sides of 
the cup with ice cream or whipped cream 
and serve. 

Coupe Thais 

Put a rounding spoonful of vanilla ice 
cream in a tall glass and on it dispose 
three or four slices of preserved peach, 
with some of the syrup; above this set 
a second tablespoonful of ice cream ; 
sprinkle with a few pecan nut meats cut 
in lengthwise slices; above the nuts pipe 
a little "well" of whipped cream, and in 
this well dispose a teaspoonful of bar-le- 
duc currants. Serve at once. 

Coupe Melba 

Line a cup or long-stemmed glass with 
sliced peaches ; fill the cup with vanilla 
ice cream and pour raspberry sauce over 
the whole. 

Raspberry Sauce from Jam 

Mix half a cup, each, of raspberry 
jam and boiling water; add two round- 
ing tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar 
and let boil two or three minutes; strain, 
to remove the seeds and when cold add 
a teaspoonful of kirschwasser. 

Cantaloupe Cup 

With a silver spoon remove the pulp 
from chilled cantaloupes ; w^ith these oval 
pieces half-fill glass cups, sprinkle light- 
ly with sugar and set a rounding table- 
soonful of vanilla ice cream above the 
pulp in each cup. 



255 



256 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



Fig Cup 

Cook pulled figs in boiling water unti